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It's now possible to shoot 14-bit uncompressed CinemaDNG Raw on iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max phones, though unfortunately this is currently limited to 1080p at 24 or 25fps, which means a heavy crop on what already are very small sensors. The app is called sr RAW, which is similar to MotionCam Pro but with a lot less functionality at the moment, and also it's subscription based Hopefully they'll add more features fairly soon.

Here's a video I shot with the app yesterday. The quality of the footage and colours reminds me a lot of shooting raw with the Canon EOS M in crop mode.

This is amazing, do you know what the data rate was for this recording?
Also I'm wondering what's the max resolution you'd be able to record in a 16:9 aspect ratio - would something like approx 3200x1800 be possible in 10 or 12-bit lossless?

@Danne I'll try it tomorrow, see if I have better luck this time!

@Kharak - you're right, I was wondering about that but I took the risk and bought this anyway as it didn't cost me much. I wouldn't pay full price for a brand new filter unless it were specifically designed for the EOS M - I'm sure that would work better, reducing aliasing even further. As it is now I have no way of aligning the filter accurately and it sits quite far from the sensor. This probably affects image quality slightly, but it seems good enough to me so far.

@andy kh  I'll have to try that but I've never been able to get higher frame rates to work on the EOS M without errors requiring a restart and corrupt footage. I guess it should work though if it's 3x3 line skipping. Also there's a VAF filter specifically for the 70D which helps. 

@Danne thanks! I was very intrigued by what @regularfellow did and I wanted to try it myself, was very lucky to find one 2nd hand Don't know if mosaic engineering has them in stock any longer as their website says backordered for all their filters. Hopefully one day they'll make one specifically for the EOS M and maybe M50.

A few months ago @regularfellow mentioned he'd put an anti-aliasing filter on his EOS M to get rid of the aliasing and moire. I managed to find a cheap one on ebay recently, so have tried the same thing. I got the Mosaic Engineering VAF-50D Optical Anti-Aliasing Filter for the Canon 50D.

I got round to making a video with it yesterday using mv1080p rewire mode (full sensor 3x3 line skipping), 14 bit lossless raw @ 1736x1158. It works fine, it doesn't get rid of the aliasing 100% - still there in extreme situations, but the reduction is substantial and youtube compression seems to get rid of it completely. I stuck the filter into an EF-M to EF adapter using sellotape. It's impossible to fit it directly in front of the sensor or in a Viltrox speedbooster as it's too large - I actually tried to fit it by cutting the filter's frame off, but the glass started cracking straight away so stopped that attempt immediately (you can see a crack in the photo below on the top right corner of the fulter, but it doesn't affect the image luckily). 

This was shot using the 2nd May 2019 build from Danne.

Yes this is definitely more complex than I thought!

It probably would make sense to keep your Patreon page quite general in that case - as said it could be more about supporting you as a person so you can spend more time on your ideas, whatever they may be; but mention to your supporters that you cannot promise you'll be able to do any of these things (be it android app development or anything magic lantern related) - simply because some things are too difficult. I think people would understand that.

It's possible to do a Patreon account without having goals or tiers. What could be easiest in this case is to set up a page and just have people contribute whatever monthly amount they want - without the pressure of having specific goals.

On the page you could say something along the following lines: pledges won't result in specific Magic Lantern features appearing any faster than is currently the case, but it will help keep the project going.

I think people would be interested in supporting this given the amount of Magic Lantern users. Maybe you can start out this way, see how it goes and then the Patreon page can always evolve and add goals in future if required.

If A1ex isn't comfortable handling donations for Magic Lantern as he mentioned, maybe the focus of the patreon could be more about supporting A1ex as a person? (i.e. the idea being that donations could eventually allow him to spend more time on programming, and he can decide to distribute part of the donations towards other Magic Lantern developers when required).

These are my thoughts, don't know if it makes sense though.

@masc brilliant, glad to hear it worked. I thought I was going crazy when I was seeing those extra focus pixels - it didn't make any sense!
To make the focus pixels really show up, I load the png exported from mlvapp into photoshop and adjust saturation and several other settings, and then they become really distinct.

@masc just to check, when you're exporting the video (or png file) from MLVapp, are you disabling "Fix focus dots"? If you leave that setting on, as it is by default, I find that additional focus pixels which are really difficult to see show up, and they're not there if turned the setting is turned off. However I did not test this extensively at all and haven't tried with the very latest version of the MCM rewire preset, so don't know if that's still happening.

In any case, in order to get an accurate understanding of where the focus pixels are, I guess it's best to turn off the fix focus dots setting and any other fixes such as chroma smoothing that might intefere with the results in MLVapp?

@henricusmaria  with the 10-18 ef-s lens you can go to about 12-13mm before the rear element hits the back of the speedbooster, but before you can do that you first have to saw off the back plastic part of the ef-s lens. I actually managed to damage my lens slightly when I did this modification, hope to repair it one day when I have more money!

Try shooting simple silent stills with the movie settings at the resolution you want to test. This will save a DNG of the full raw buffer. Shoot light subjects, dark subjects, flat walls, scenes with lots of contrasty details--sometimes focus pixels pop right out and other times they are hard to find. Then again if you can't find them that's the best news of all!

Thanks - finally got round to doing this and posted the focus pixel photos in the "Dealing with Focus Pixels in raw video" thread. Silent stills mode didn't work in 2.5k crop mode unfortunately - liveview goes black for a while, and all I get is a blank jpg. I just shot some short MLV clips and then extracted PNG files from them in MLVapp, enhanced in post so you can see all the focus pixels.

@dfort as discussed in the EOS M thread - below is a link to two PNGs showing focus pixels for the EOS M shooting in 2.5k crop mode (5x zoom) at 2520x1308, in 9-bit lossless raw.
Both files are the same, one is in colour and the other I've switched to b&w in case that's helpful? I had to enhance and combine images together in order to see all the focus pixels (it's very tough to see all of them at once, as certain focus pixels become invisible depending on which colour temperature and other colour settings you set):

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WGDLbFGz-j1UjHnjmigQNqnw28GtpGjL?usp=sharing

@dfort  You can use Canon ef-s lenses + Viltrox when shooting in 5x zoom mode without any vignetting (since the resultant crop is 2.36x from 35mm full frame assuming you shoot at max res of 2520x1308), however at the wide end the rear lens element might hit the Viltrox glass - depending on which ef-s lens you use. First step is to remove the plastic part which protrudes from the back of the ef-s lens, either by sawing it off or using your fingers depending on lens. After this modification, you can fit the lens on the Viltrox: my ef-s 17-55mm and 10-18mm both hit the Viltrox glass at their widest setting (so you can't use the widest 2mm or so), but my ef-s 17-85mm doesn't. Unfortunately my three ef-s lenses are all broken (various electronic failures) so won't be able to test them properly till I get them fixed!

@garry23  glad your experiments with the speedbooster are going well!

That is dfort area. Could you share a file in the focus pixel thread or in Mlv app thread so it could be fixed?

Will do, I've been trying to get a screengrab that shows all the focus pixels clearly but no success so far, hard to tell the focus pixels apart from the background. I guess if I shoot against a clear sky that might work best.

@Danne, this build works nicely shooting 2520x1308 in 9 or 10 bit lossless. I can't seem to get rid of the focus pixels using mlvapp, but other than that the image quality is perfect. Liveview looks a bit funny colourwise but it's not particularly distracting and still very usable.

Here's a link to two MLV files from the footage I shot - one is the long clip from the video, and the other is a short clip which shows a bit of aliasing (however if you export as prores with "smooth aliasing" enabled on mlvapp, that removes the aliasing):
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dy3Qhpb0OEl8mR3kRpu58daFSVYxviQ7   (3gb)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dy3Qhpb0OEl8mR3kRpu58daFSVYxviQ7  (274mb)

Sorry didn't get the chance to shoot anything else yet.

I'll try the new build you linked to, thanks for that! When you say 12 and 10bit lossless recording does that also work when shooting in 5x zoom mode at 2520x1304 resolution or are you referring to the 3x3 mv1080p mode?

Edit: I've tried your latest build - shooting 9 or 10 bit in 5x zoom mode at 2520x1308. I am stunned, the image quality and level of clarity is insane! Thanks so much for this - look forward to testing further!

I got it on amazon, here it is in the US: https://amzn.to/2QwKpuf
and UK: https://amzn.to/2BRmFZA

Sure I'll try this tonight!

I finally received the Viltrox speed booster for my EOS M, which means it's now an ultra cheap full frame raw video camera (£120 for the speed booster + £100 for the camera 2nd hand)!
Here's my first footage using the whole sensor area. 

Resolution is 1736x1042 (14-bit lossless raw) in 3x3 mv1080p mode. The speed booster provides 0.71x magnification which gives the EOS M a 1.14x crop compared to 35mm full frame. Lens used - Tamron adaptall 35-70mm f3.5. Didn't need to use the SD US overclock card hack as at this resolution the record times are fairly good. Also I forgot to remove the focus pixels on MLVapp.

How much does that lens cover? would it cover 2.5k wide shot you think?

The Pentax 6mm f1.2 is for 1/2 inch sensors I think so will vignette anything beyond max resolution in movie crop mode (which is 1800x1030). I used that lens in a couple shots in the video linked here below at this res. See the shot starting at the 3:39 minute mark and at 4:10, and you'll see some vignetting in the top left hand corner: https://youtu.be/5YeUUZS9t3c?t=219    (the other non vignetting shots were done with a stock ef-m lens).

If you want to avoid vignetting in 5x zoom mode (with 2.5k res) I think you'll need lenses that are at least for 2/3 inch sensors and above.

That's so cool it can do 38fps!
Here's my first test with mv1080, really happy with the results

I've been using 23.98fps override. Works well but I think the video is coming out darker than what I recorded, so I have to increase the exposure in post to compensate. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, will test further including shooting at 25p. I can confirm that the sd uhs hack functions properly though - recording is fully continuous. Also it's definitely 3x3, if it were 3x5 I'd be getting a lot more moire!

EDIT: my bad, exposure is fine - my monitor brightness was turned right down so everything was looking dark.

@IDA_ML definitely need to try doing timelapses with the higher resolutions, I'll need a tripod for that though!

Great, this works perfectly for me. Thanks so much - I think I'll be using this camera a lot more often now! Have tried without the sd uhs hack so far. Liveview preview is slightly stretched but totally usable. When global draw is on it says Mv 3x5 along the bottom on the liveview screen, is that normal or should that be 3x3?

[Finally:]

Finally:
1736x1120 seems to be max here. Totally epic that this actually is working now. No way this would work without the helping hand of a lot of people. A1ex, g3gg0, dfort, rbune and more. Finally this guy nail the registers. theBilalFakhouri! Epic work.

Well done @Danne and everyone involved, this is legendary work and that footage looks awesome! Being able to shoot raw with the full aps-c sensor is going to be amazing - especially because Viltrox are close to releasing their ef-m to ef 0.71x speed booster, which will allow people to turn this into a full frame camera if they want!

With this resolution I'm assuming it pretty much uses the full sensor height (i.e. close to 3:2 aspect ratio)? If so that makes anamorphic shooting a nice option here too.

I've tested @Bilal's croprec module with 2.5k mode, but shooting at a lower resolution of 2224x1200 to get longer record times (10-20 seconds). Shot 14 minutes of footage and not a single problem - thanks so much for this!: