Messages

I think I never have a problem because the battery grip.  Sometime I forget to switch off the camera before change the battery (don't follow) and I don't have error on the card, at least not yet error.
On the other side, the battery grip keep the camera colder and less error on long operation (time lapse, etc). I use on T2 or 550D.

Hi, Thrandurin!
Thanks!
i'm working on dual-iso.

I am waiting eagerly...
By the way, even with the recent version already great program, thank you.

@vladpopa

After you press the quickreview ---> press the button DISP. (on the top left, beside MENU) and press again to have different display, and press again to have another display. Maybe this can solve the problem.
Or maybe you set LV Display Presets more than one (2,3,4) and you are in the preset that you don't want. This function is very handy. Please, read the detail explanation on the manual PDF. It's not long.
Greetings...

One more question...
I buy the DVD blank normally with the spindle package (50 pieces) white color for ink jet, and later print the design for the cover on the DVD.
It's cost less than 1 euro each disk.
Did anyone know if this white color is enough good for white balance reference ?

Thanks...

@ansius and @andy :
Thanks for your reply. I drop the idea. For a moment I don't have the Kodak one.

I try another idea : doing custom white balance with the lens cover by the white cup/bowl, a kind of plastic, but not exactly plastic.
I corrected by dv resolve, it's look good.
It's not perfect but it's useful, at least better than the menu in camera (Auto, cloud, shade, etc).

Thank for many good idea and explanations.

Thanks.
It's very useful, when often move around in different countries.

How about the white colour of the foam which we use to protect electronic equipment inside the cartoon box for transport/delivery.
I am sure we have a lots of that, from the camera box, computer, etc. Now the new box often only with cartoon, without that foam.
Did anyone try this foam as white balance tool or compare to the Kodak Card ?

Once again, thanks.

Nice, beautiful picture.
The movement/shaking doesn't disturb, it's look more life for me.
I can not say about colour,  I use pc laptop on the journey... as I know the gamma from fcp also different than on win7.
Thanks for the picture, and as the video sing : Merry Christmas for you too...

First : Go to menu "Module"
2nd : activate the "raw_rec.mo" this module which will make the the camera can record in raw, but I prefer the "mlv_rec" (please find the explanation on the other thread.
3rd : switch off the camera
4th : switch on the camera, and on the menu "Movie" will appear the sub menu "RAW video", press the Q to adjust as you want.

Due to the capability of 550D writing on SD card, it can not do HD.
Other possibility : make lower the "FPS" and record in HD, very useful for time lapse, or record in lower than HD and then up-res.

Good luck !

In my experience, I can imagine how far the color correction in post production. The histogram and zebra is a helpful function. Even vector-scope, before it's exist only on the professional NLE, now is in the camera, thanks to Magic Lantern. The image in screen (Live View) some time better than reality, in other word not so sure. With the RAW/MLV, the image is close to reality, more space for exposure correction, if correct the temperature less in color correction, more for the taste. I don't think the processor in the camera can do many function. Maybe very strong but in specific task. I can not afford a better camera, so I try to know better the limitation of my camera. Please, no offend just a share. Many great things start from the imagination or dream  .

@ dpjpandone : yes, for picture style.... many 'free' user profile can be download and use, many good choices outside of Cinestyle also and even the extra gain on gamma 

Thanks Andrew ! You doing great with the program MlRawViewer. I use on Mac and Win7. I only two or three time give feedback, but really this is a great program. And all my wish already done (LUT, colour bar on the timing and colour correction).
I use ML on Canon only on personal project, many other project on Sony and Atomos Ninja for the reason easy to use for the other crew who are not 'geeks'. But the result of the image of RAW/MLV from MagicLantern which can be seen directly by MlRawViewer is really great. And being able to export directly to ProRes is wonderful, as I am an FinalCutPro user. I don't have time time and resource through DNG files.
I can imagine your feeling  ... but I can not help for programming...
Anyway, I always update MlRawViewer, and follow this thread. I still hope that you will continue. Maybe you dont't need update so often. Even the bug for some camera, or operating system, MlRawViewer still great program. In my office I use FinalCutPro, but for my personal project I use, Lightworks, Shotcut and also Blender : all are free-ware. Before, the program Shotcut always updated very often, it can be daily... but since few months it's update once in a month. I find out it's good and I downloaded each month. I hope that you will continue again, but please don't feel a pressure to fix from each bug, it's impossible to please EVERYONE. We are not strong enough to read a complete thread : to find the same problem from other and try the solution from that problem.
Yes, most of the program and activity in these kinds are on the free time  and some time we use our time on it more than should be... event we didn't know if we are working or doing hobby     So, if you still have a free time please update the program, maybe you find some new function or more interesting GUI. I don't mind the time of release, it can be each month, each two months, each three months, etc. It doesn't matter if there is a bug, we can always going back the previous version as the program is a 'portable' program. If you want to take a break for a few months, enjoy your time... 
Again, thank you very much for such a wonderful program.

Hi everyone,

I am so frustrated in getting my raw files to transfer to dng ones its been literally days of searching and constant failure.

I'm running OSX 10.6.8 SnowLeopard

I've tried terminal, couldn't find raw to dng converters

and just basically fed up I need help if anyone is able to help me out.

Try MLRawviewer, it's work great...  find in the other thread which almost appear daily.

I use extended for double batteries, Phottix, Made in China... so it's not expensive.
Here is the interesting things :
- Some already noted, the heat of batteries less influence to the camera, camera become less hot, less error for a reason of hot.
- In one pack, there is a bonus : second cartridge for 6 x AA batteries, it's useful if in the remote area/little town where we can not find LP battery, we can use also 6 rechargeable batteries but it's not good result. Much more for emergency situation with 6 alkaline batteries it's work very well.
- After a while, I modified this cartridge. I soldered a cable going outside from this block, I put a XLR 4 points connector as a common on the bigger camera, and I can use many different power supplies.

There are many circuit for these pins and NO common agreement between different camera (SONY, etc). So, I compare between many marks, which are the common. I use 2 points for the EOS camera itself, 9 volt. The others two for 12 volts, which very common in car or anything else.
I make converter from 12 volts or above to 9 volt, so I can recycle many source of power supply.
Now I can use :
- Power supply 9 volt from the old printer, for time lapse.
- With converter, I can use old batteries from SONY broadcast camera; in the SONY big camera will last 20 minutes, in DSLR can be 3 hours. The cheap battery is for the drilling machine, which bigger than LP battery, more power, less price, or recycle from the similar tools.
- I can use also the old big accu from the car (the new will be 40 Amp), I used already many times, many days for time lapse and still a lots power rest there .  I put on the roof. I use also little accu which more common on motorcycle. It's less heavy. 
- I can use also the charger for battery, either 9 volt or 12 volt a kind for Anton-Bauer battery big camera, for long indoor interview, that's look clean.
- The reason using XLR 4 points connector is because for security and reliability. It's less risk if someone without knowledge of electronics help me. Just plug.  Another reason is I have some long cable XLR-XLR 4 points already, and some power supply from SONY.

I hope this give some idea for you who like soldering. Greetings.


       

If you use Final Cut Pro the best file to edit is in ProRes format.
In FCPX you can do render different formats in background, in FCP7 you need to render before editing.
There is a program, very good indeed, and it's called :
MlRawViewer by baldland : 
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9560.0
there you will find all the explanation.

or to be exact for Mac : https://bitbucket.org/baldand/mlrawviewer/downloads/MlRawViewer_1_1_4_mac.dmg

This program/apps will convert the MLV or RAW to ProRes format ready to edit. I don't think there is other format better than ProRes for editing in Final Cut Pro. If in AVID, there is DNxHD, or other program prefer their native format.

and the last version is 1.1.5 :
https://bitbucket.org/baldand/mlrawviewer/downloads/MlRawViewer_1_1_5_mac.dmg

If you habit with grading, then you can output file ProRes with profile sRGB, 709, HDR, log or just simple linear. These are plenty of choices and I am sure more than enough to start. There is a function for correction White Balance also (picker). This apps is the best for conversion if we want to work with ProRes. If during the filming the light is good, not in worst condition, in my opinion we can work with ProsRes from the conversion, with enough flexibility to make color correction or grading.
I am impress with the color from the conversion, without correction or grading.
Please try that apps, you see and judge yourself.
If there is one thing missing is the noise reduction, but this are common problem in low light filming. The RAW file don't have noise reduction as H264 format in EOS. The Neat Video is the best for cleaning.

Greetings.

+1

I use many old manual lenses also, 2 x 50mm, 2x135mm, 70-200mm. All give very good images.
And the best thing for video : much more precise for focusing, it can be 270° from minimum (closest) to maximum (infinite).
Yes, in the log file there is no information because no chip there 
The modern analog (I use Zeiss 50mm/1.4 also) it give the information.
It will be nice if there is information on the module/script which written on the log, and better again if it can be modified by user even if only A, B, C, D, etc (minimalist) it's enough to distinguish which lenses I use.
I will wait the progress/news, but even with the current condition I accepted it 

Big and happy news 
Lightworks (one of the very good editing program and free, and use by many Hollywood movies like Mission Impossible 4, King's Speech, etc) use ffmpeg also, which make them possible to edit many format directly without necessary MPEG Intra. I try to edit directly H264 from the camera or ProRes nicely.
So maybe soon we will edit MLV file on timeline. Of course, the hardware will be very demanding but with the mode OFFLINE first editing and switch to ONLINE on final editing that will be sweet.
A big leap 

Basically just adjust the levels until you are pleased with the result....

That's right.
The trailer most often loud and lots of dynamic. ... etc.

Just for share idea, not the best but it's good for me for the documentary in our production, with some thought that the video will be shown in normal room not in cinema or well auditorium :

- The maximum level -2dB or -3dB from VU level, not the signal in Volt or mV. I try not 0dB in case the player of the audience/user have a defect function there is still little space before distortion.
- The speech between -8dB to -3dB.
- The ambiance around -18dB for continue. The unpleasant ambiance : door bang, move the table, etc can be louder to support the story but short.
- Music around -6dB for alone/music only and -18dB for background. Again this is very subjective, the jazz music will be different with rock

That's for beginning.  There are no ideal setting if you didn't know exactly for where you will use.
For example :
- With the drama film, the dynamic is more important : should be very different between scream and speak softly.
- If you know that the clip will be shown in cinema or auditorium well under 50dB noise level, than you can make much more dynamic again.
- If you will use for educational training, in class room, then the minimum level must be louder the the noise around.
- The headphone user have more dynamic than the loudspeaker system for the house.

Try make one first, and show that one (maquette) to many others so the subjective factor will be less and then readjust.

Find with google many article about that, I am shure there are plenty...

On Windows 7 new 1.1.4 update only shows a black screen although audio can be heard. Checked same files on older version are viewable

This post reply some other similar problem with windows 7 64b. It's not a solving problem but maybe some trace of problem (for baldand).
I have similar problem, that version 1.1.4 doesn't work the output MOV file on my Win 7 64b. The 'W' key (destination folder) doesn't work either.
Some time the version 1.1.3 Win did similar thing, but the 1.1.3 on Mac/Maverick work nicely 

The same MLV file which have problem on Win (output MOV), if I send out DNG file work nicely. So, from the folder of that DNG I send out to MOV with this version 1.1.4 again and it's work.
Anyone of you who have the problem with MOV output can you try this ?

So, here are the notes :
1. Most MLV files which doesn't work : because the WAV file. Maybe because the length (video and audio) are different, this has an issue for some times. The MLV files of mine without audio work most of the time.
2. The mapping work not on the same level.
- The HDR work most of the time, and give very good image...    thanks baldand, it's really great.
- The sRGB, 709 and log work also but less success than HDR. This is great for LUT and for more room of correction. But as the material RAW or MLV already rich in dynamic so HDR mapping is enough and very beautiful, even without grading (with lens Zeiss Planar 50mm/1.4).
3. The picker White balance working well. This is really time saving, especially for room with colorful lamp or colorful wall and spill the color the the environment. One white spot or shirt will save the whole image in short time.
4. On the landscape (outdoor), most of the time the color is good even without correction white balance. Of course, the white balance on the camera (cloudy, shade, sun, etc) should be correct. I think the metadata from camera is well translated by soft. Is it right ?

@ SoulChildPaul and others : Maybe some conversion has done well also. In my case, because button "W" version 1.1.4 which doesn't work, I use the older version, for example 1.1.2, to open the last folder with button "W" and... 'dang' ... I found on that folder some file which I thought doesn't work but already well converted. The program remember and keep the last folder for the next destination if we didn't change. So with this old version 1.1.2  I decide the present folder for the output and then I use 1.1.4 for converting and there the file arrive.
Maybe some of you who have the same problem can try which I have done : try change MOV and DNG, change mapping sRGB, 709, HDR, etc to confirm the problem.
By the way baldand, for ProRes : this program is the best out there 

I plan on talking about both Adobe Products and DaVinci resolve.  Mind you I'm not, technically speaking, a "colorist"... I'm a post production engineer and director and DOC with a lot of experience with color grading. But I'm sure some actually colorists will chime in with points that I've missed. ....
Don't know when I'll have the time to get started with this since I'm right in the middle of filming a Kickstarter campaign...
Stay tuned! And thanks for the support. 

Go on... many will support you.
Don't worry about the time, all/most of the people here have a job for a living    Don't feel under pressure.
This share of the knowledge will help also for our job for a living, vice-versa.

Some idea :
- Many with some branch/chapter, a kind like for the beginner, the intermediate, and advanced. Of course, the border is blurrrr : some think intermediate other think advanced.
- Maybe also tip and trick, which will be very useful and without border, it can go in every direction... 
My experiences with video editing was without a class or a course, open manual only when needed, so it's not systematic.
I think many other people doing similar.
- Many experiences or problem-solving with MLV or RAW from Magic Lantern  , that's why we are here  and also we will not find in other forum, or very little chance.

Many others will wait and support... 

- Good idea 
- For the the word "ultimate", maybe it's good to mention how important to calibrate the monitor, especially for laptop, maybe less for Mac. Even if it doesn't explain about how to calibrate, or may be just give the link.
- It will be better also not only Adobe family. I don't hate it, I just not use it. DaVinci will be great, or links. Other soft or more simple solution from the experience, not from the manual, will be welcome.
- This subject will touch many or most of us, with so many different many. It will enrich us, I hope.
Keep on... 

Hey guys,

Basically I'm looking to get a new PC for video editing. I'll mainly be editing 1080p footage from my 60D, with a view to editing higher resolutions in the future (not necessary at this point in time, though).

I'm looking for something around £1000-1200 ($1500-1800). Either buying a ready-made system or building my own.

What advice would you give in terms of CPU, GPU, RAM, hard drives etc?

Cheers!

Paul.

- If it is for me, I will buy iMac with 8GB RAM with SSD, I even can install Windows on it, but "ItsMeLenny" don't like it  , no offence  ... and it's for you... so buy a PC.
- One important thing that many forget is the monitor. How can we do colour correction on the low cost monitor ? So buy PC with good monitor.
- Apple computer have a good monitor, out from the box, except Mac Mini or Mac Pro. By the way, I use computer half day with Mac and half day with PC, like now when I write this message. Hi ItsMeLenny  ... I like PC computer also.
- If you don't know hardware, don't assembly your-self. If something going wrong it's not because the hardware, and the time being lost to fix the problem often costly. You can sell again any computer with good brand, at least at eBay, to upgrade later.
- Check on CNET or other site for the choice which you can get with your budget.
- Computer need program also. Good program cost money also. Luckily as a student you can get student price. The time to study a program also an investment. In Mac you can use Final Cut Pro X, on your budged, and not limited the function or capability because the price. In Windows or Linux you can get Lightworks for free. So many program there, just don't be fanatic. 
 

dilectus,
I am sorry maybe I misunderstand about the LCD. First, I thought the LCD monitor computer, maybe you speak about LCD of camera.
If you speak about the LCD of camera, see the Magic Lantern menu on DISPLAY. Maybe on LV contrast on AUTO or other wrong selection. See also on LV brightness, check on the DISPLAY menu and verify with the Q button.
See also on EXPO menu, Expo. Override.
See also PREFS menu on LiveView zoom tweaks.
Greeting.

Do you mean LCD on the camera (Live View) ?

Hi baldand !

It's great work   It's really great    Definitely the best.
It's works very well on Win7 64b and Mac 10.9.2 and the output quality is very good.
The icon on the screen is very nice, beautiful and it's very intuitive.
The colour box is very nice. It's a new think  ... so we don't say colour wheel anymore now 
The mark IN and OUT are very good, on the beginning I didn't see it clearly (on Win7) but later I seen more clearly on Mavericks, it's maybe also because my screen.

Thank you very much.

Here is my suggestion for next version :
Can we have a coordinate for the position correction on "colour box" : (x,y) for example  (12,7) ? Maybe not so far from the box, or even inside the box. In this way if we have some clips with the same scene, light, colour, etc we can make the same set correction. For the brighness control, maybe similar way, but for that at least I can remember how many time pressing the arrow up or down.
Maybe you already have other plan for that also, by the way.
Again, big thanks.

Yes.

A better GUI will be the next major improvement. It is already implemented in bitbucket.
But is there some reason why you need a 64bit build for Windows? The program is not so memory hungry that it would benefit much, and performance is mostly depending on your GPU.
...........

Baldand,

Thank you for your reply. It's clarify that GPU is the main worker. On Mac Mavericks I try to convert one file and then 6 different files, after copied and rename 6 mlrawviewer apps (I think Danne who point out that idea, thanks  ) and when I see the occupation of CPU on the "activities windows" it's more process so I thought it influence the CPU. Yes, its work very fast  . And it's nice to see many files working/transcoding together, like batch file of many 5DtoRGB transcoding.
Again, thank you very much for the program and the good news which will arrive.   

Pilgrim,
Whatever it takes to go from MLV to ProRes that gets rid of the pink dots on the EOS-M camera.

Edit- I just looked at mlrawviewer and tried it. it seems to only be a raw/mlv viewer and i cannot get any of the options to work for MLV files, such as brightness, white balance, etc. These options do work on the original ML Raw files. how do you get it to do prores and dng's? i have a feeling it takes some programming since there are no menus or anything except space bar for start and stop playback. I admit I didn't read the whole thread. Just the OP and downloaded the app. Tony's app does most of what I need except the pink dot removal and no raw files (just mlv).

Gary,

I use "mlrawviewer" for viewing and converting the MLV files to ProRes. It's work as explain in the page :
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9560.msg91165#msg91165

The function brightness gain, white balance, linear/log mapping : all work well.
The only part which doesn't work (and I want) for me is jump the next/previous files with O/P keys. The rest is good, I use on Win7 64bit  and MacOS Mavericks. All the command with the keyboard shortcut which make faster for someone habits with shortcut. I put the list of the keyboard shortcut on the wall next to the monitor, and now it's memorized. I am used to FinalCutPro, so ProRes is my favourite.
No, I don't use the DNG files. It's too long process for me through Resolve, even I like very much the possibility of correction on Resolve. Simply I use correction on FCP and Neat Video. On Windows7 I use Lightworks, and with vers 11.5 it can import/link directly the ProRes file without transcode. I encourage you to read again the first page of "mlrawviewer" and play a bit more.