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[Panasonic ESE23J101]

After a few insightful days and PMs with alex later (of course huge thanks to his help as always) I seem to have figured out the problem with this camera.
Perhaps its helpful for others with similar issues.

alex analyzed the logs and told me
Your ROM boots fine in QEMU, camera starts with main display off, menus in German. So, if there is anything wrong, it must be from the MPU (secondary CPU).
Possible suspect: the power button.

Well, I figured out that its pretty simple to get the backside of the 50D off (quiet similar at least to 40D and 5DII), there are helpful videos at youtube. You just have to unscrew 4 or 5 screws, one is under the grip-leather (pretty easy to peel it off). After that just 2 flex cables are connected to the camera.
Interesting behaviour was, that without the whole camera backside, the camera showed all the normal settings on the upper display when the battery is connected again. Also AutoFocus worked fine, but the camera didn't engage the shutter.
Also when I just connected one flex cable it behaved the same way. When the flex cable with the power-switch is connected it didn't start anymore.

So I had a closer look at the power switch. One component is the hardware-power-lever you see from the outside... but that thing is internally connected to a tiny switch on the inside that also has the 3 states "Off / ON / Locked".
Well, the problem is simply the tiny switch on the flex cable which failed or is broken. It doesn't spring back when the camera is Off and the power lever is turned back On.

To clarify here is an explanation-image:


With a tiny screwdriver I can switch the micro switch to on, leave it there, put the battery back in and the camera starts normal again, with LCD image and all the function buttons on the back. Hooray.
At that point its the simplest way to just leave the micro switch and power lever disconnected and the camera always "On" and just shut it On/Off by putting the battery in/out. The micro switch in the battery compartment is kinda my new power switch.
alex added
You'd have to power down the camera by opening the CF card door - which is a perfectly clean shutdown, btw.
Even more - with ML, opening the card door while leaving the power switch to "on" is actually the safest method to turn off the camera. That's because the camera no longer wakes up to read autoexec.bin whenever you want to remove the CF card.

My conclusion is ... no wonder that Canon changed the power-switch layout after the 5DII (which should be a somewhat professional camera). ;-) That tiny thing is an essential part of the camera and can affect it to stop working.

/edit
Thanks to Mike Tornado, the specific switch in question is a Panasonic ESE23J101.

Because, the camera still doesn't boot normally when I don't insert a card at all (nothing shows up or blinks). ;-)
The question is, what is wrong with the booting and how can I reset that state.

Oh wow, it seemed that the card has issues.. because it didn't load anything in 5D3 either. I tried another card which is running ML in my 5D3 and the screen shows up ... also in the 50D! So what does that mean?
Some loading issues? Can I flash a firmware or something?

I'm sorry, my Chrome has issues with the download, another browser worked fine.

Well, I inserted Card, then Battery and just closed the compartment. Waited a little, but nothing flashes etc.
On the computer I saw no new files on the card. Didn't seem to do anything.

/edit
doublechecked, the card is still bootable according to eoscard.

Hey there,
thanks.
The download link from alex seems not to work at the moment, is it off? Also the bitbucket link https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/ is not available anymore.

When the card is bootable do I just need to put the autoexec on the card?

Hi,
I got a 50D... worked without issues, just changed the lens when powered off and it didn't power on again at all. No sign of life, no LED blinking.
Charged the batteries, put out the clock battery, changed lens and CF Card in many combinations, but it just doesnt do anything anymore. 
Any ideas or suggestions?
Is there a possibility for that model with diagnostic tools? I'm not sure if there are parts of magic lantern left in the firmware, I tried a bit with that camera a while ago. But the card is clean of ML.

So, is there something to talk about today? 
In any case, happy birthday! :-D

For FPS, the low light mode will scale the shutter speed, while the other modes will not.

Unfortunately, only low light is compatible with high-res modes on 5D3 (at least for now). You should, however, be able to adjust the shutter speed after dialing the FPS.

Great ... you know your code! :-D I set exact fps and after that the shutter speed can be set separate without a problem. Now I can set it up exactly as I want. thx

Have you tried IR remote trigger in movie mode?

Sorry, but I dont have one to try out.

I've only tested it using the half-shutter button from the camera (not with a cable remote). Should work out of the box - can you show your raw video settings?

With the rec trigger enabled, the LiveView button (labeled as start/stop on 5D3) would only prepare and end the recording session; to record any frames, you would have to press half-shutter.

The "Sticky HalfShutter" Walter is talking about, does not apply here; this is a special build of mlv_lite that has a half-shutter trigger for recording (e.g. record one frame, pre-record 1 second before the trigger and so on). It's also available in the crop_rec_4k builds. It's not yet in unified because... I didn't use it for more than a few very short test clips before committing the code, so right now I have little or no idea how it performs.

Ohh, now that you told me and as I tested the options again I understand it. The start/stop just like starts the container ... after that I can start recording with the half shutter. Right, that works fine. :-) And now I also understand the prerecording especially the option with 1-frame / pre only. So thats the setting I need to choose when shooting lightnings. So that I can record the maximum amount of frame buffer BEFORE pressing the Half Shutter button.

So now my only question remaining is how to get the fps down independent to the shutter speed. Alex, do you have a tip on that? :-)

Hey there, didn't know that the 5DIII doesn't support the option.
You mentioned the "Sticky HalfShutter" but how does that help in my case?!

And does anybody know how to set a small framerate like 10fps and shoot with a separate shutterspeed like 1/50?

Hey guys,
can anyone please explain how to set up the raw video for lighting photography? I played around with it and its not clear to me how especially the rec trigger setting works.
I'd like to record the last second when I hit a cable remote trigger and I thought that works when I set to "Half Shutter" but it doesn't do anything. I can only start/stop record on the back button of the 5DIII.

And is it possible to lower the fps to get more seconds pre-recorded (in the buffer)? When I use fps override it seems to alter the shutter-speed also. Can I set the fps independent to the shutter speed?

Thanks!

Just some clips plugged together with some music.
My first test. Not the best quality ... handheld - no stabilized lens - downsampled to 3K before uploaded and stabilized by youtube. ;-)
Edited in Resolve.

Tried it with the actual nightly and image review 0. Works fine so far, also intervalometer seems to work.
But why do I have to press half shutter again after a FRSP to get back to liveview?

@ alex
oh well, this should also be the problem which I PMed you. will test that later.
but the image review was intended to be 0 for better battery runtime (timelapse), or isn't that the case anyway? Man, I'm still waiting for a possibility to deactivate that shitty screen. ^^ But I know, this probably won't ever be solved.

Can somebody please provide me a build for the 5D MKII ... I'm aware of the risk. :-)

This is so great ... after all this time alex is still in the game for great new developments!

I always wanted silent pics for timelapse, so my dream seems to come true.
Is it possible to get a nice configurable timelapse-section in ML?

@ Alex
I tried to process my file through the old and the new cr2hdr on the exact same path directly under the root directory. Also with and without the exiftool.
But nothing changes ... in the old DNG are all camera profiles listed and in the new DNG only the "Embedded".

And the sun looks more pleasant on the "Adobe Standard" camera profile. Of course I know that a camera profile is just a "look" but I don't know if that was intended.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35226956/DualIso/DUAL4390_OLD.DNG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35226956/DualIso/DUAL4390_NEW.DNG

Wow, the new CR2HDR is very nice for me.
I had one problematic file with magenta patterns in the shadows, but with the new version they're totally gone.
Not just the magenta but also those patterns in the dark. At this point it should be obvious, that we have to save the original CR2-Files for the future.

For demonstration.
The CR2-file:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35226956/DualIso/DUAL4390.CR2

This was processed with the old version (Shadows +100)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35226956/DualIso/DUAL4390_CR2HDR_OLD.jpg

This with the new version (same Settings)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35226956/DualIso/DUAL4390_CR2HDR_08_28.jpg

@ Alex
But there is a small issue. Is there a difference in the embedded Camera Profile? With the old CR2HDR it was "Adobe Standard" and with the new one "Embedded". Did you include something there?
The thing is...do you see this strange looking sun-corona? On the Adobe Standard-Profile this looked perfectly normal and on the embedded profile thats a little ugly. ;-)
But thats just a minor issue.
Nice work!

My result is after "correcting" White balance.
Will check the dng when possible.

I looked into your uploaded file and I got it perfectly right with just the white balance eyedropper in ACR (I think on the curtain in the front should give the result).
Or do you mean those agressive greens in the tree? These may be chromatic aberrations.

This seems to be just an incorrect whitebalance setting. Are the EXIF information in the DNG file correct (like aperture, shutter speed...)?

@ oddname
I didn't activate ETTR in ML but my approach was quite the same.

I shot some tests with Dual ISO on my 5D2 under real world conditions and in a challenging szenario. But what can say ... just a great addition and so powerful. :-)
This really isn't a scientific test, but I just wanted to try how good it is for my purposes. A sunrise seems quite challenging. As I understand, the best way to shoot Dual ISO is to expose for the highlights and to get them almost clipping. But not that much as I normally shoot. And then I hoped for the power on the dark side. ;-)
The unprocessed version:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dark-ness/9552218087/

Just some slight adjustments:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dark-ness/9552216865/

And a quick processed version:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dark-ness/9552220807/


Does anybody know what those white dots are (there are just a few)? Seems to be some processing error. Are those in some way dead pixel that show up much more through cr2hdr?

And I also have just a few other shots that have strong magenta highlights. No correction possible through white balance.

Ah sorry ... I think ExpSim was it. You're great ^^

@ alex
I tested the 5D2 build 1fcfef6c9425 from a.d.
But the shortcut buttons don't work for me. Only the "Always On" mode seems to work. The others move the mirror but don't calculate values. Ist it already tested and working with other 5D2s?

@ Yomommassis
Looks nice. I also know the problem with every other frame = the first. Do you know at which settings this bug occurs?

Do you know wether its possible to have like a framerate of 1/sec but a shutter speed of 1/48 for instance?