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To know it would be too much, but I used it for conversion of the Canon movs into editor friendly codecs for use in LightWorks, and it works very good, as soon as you know where to click.
And it's for free.

There is another tool, though, it is called "eyeframe converter". It's an easy drag and drop converter for exactly the same purpose. You might give it a try, too. It was written in the LightWorks community and uses FFmbc, too.

There's a topic about eyeframe in this forum by tin2tin.

Hi.

Just another few shots done with ML HDR, iso 100 and iso 800. Resolution is 720p50 to have 25 FPS left.
As I see it, ghosting is minimal, but there is quite a bit of noise in flat places like walls.

I separated the mov into tifs (Malcolm, thanks for a beautiful tool, but for this workflow I needed the pics in one folder in the original bright/dark order) and then used SNS-HDR pro version to batch process the whole bunch of pics. Then batch rename all pics since they are named now in only odd numbers (1,3,5,7...) and import them into editor of choice, in my case LightWorks.

edit: I thought that tif might be a better choice than jpg, but actually it makes no difference, so next time I could use HDSLR Offloader again and just copy all frames back into one folder.

The choice of saturation and brightness in some shots could be better, but still, it shows the potential of HDR.

Hi.

Two possibilities: I'm not sure if there is still the button "advanced settings" in the prefs menu. This would be one.
Then you might have blanked out a few menu items with the menu button. For that there is a setting which says "show hidden menus". (not sure about the exact wording since I don't have my cam here)

I like the camera strap idea, too, but as said before, it should be a good one, an improvement to the present one. There are straps out there with a steel rope inside to prevent theft by cutting through the strap... something like that maybe..

Greetings, tin2tin.
Nice to see people across forums

Andy, I have the same problem. On one machine it works fine, on another (newer one) it crashes with 1080p.

@lighthouse67: No, I have the paid version, but the plugin will work in the free version, too. You can find it in the LW forum, there is one sticky thread with user-FX, in the first post is a collection of all user-created FX and an explanation how to install them.

@bigjoe: When shooting HDR, your ISO is switched between to values, so one picture is bright, the next is dark, then bright again. This explains the flickering liveview. In your editing-prog (vegas in your case) you need to separate the two exposures. Obviously you then have two videos with double speed, which you need to correct, too.
In your software you then should overlay the two tracks and with some appropriate tool extract the good parts of each track.. sounds complicated now...
Anyone with a workflow for Vegas?

Just watched the bloopers... you guys sure had fun! 

I really like timelapse, and artistic shorts, but this is ... is "comic relief" the right word? (me being german and trying to  find my way through english)

Please continue!!! So good to see funny stuff for a change!

Excellent... can't wait for the next episode! Judging by the credits there are quite a few people involved. Is it a commercial project or just for fun?

I like it. If you compare the final with the three single shots, then you have the best part of each captured in one. The clouds have detail and texture, the river looks crisp and the vegetation has a fresh green and is visible in all detail.
But the point is, YOU have to like it (or your customer, if it is commercial).
HDR is mostly about enhancing details: details in the lighting, details in the colour and details in the texture. For example your sky: It is mostly grey clouds, so in the HDR they will still be grey clouds. Many HDR seem to look good, because they have some sunset or sunlit clouds in them.
Another idea: In SNS you can use masks to work on selected parts of the picture. If the sky is to bright, then put a mask over it and make it darker without affecting the landscape.
But again, just my ideas, no hard rules here.

Maybe there is a misunderstanding. Please disregard if I'm wrong.

The automatic HDR-bracketing in ML does NOT make a perfect HDR automatically, it just decides, how many pictures in which EV-spacing it needs to cover the whole dynamic range. No program will know, what looks perfect for YOU. You still have to play with the sliders (and hopefully understand what they do) to get the result you like. ML helps you in getting the pictures, and SNS gives you a good starting point.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think NO HDR-pic on this website was straight out of the box.

OK, after reading my post again I have to admit I forgot something.
Lots of people recommend (assuming you shoot RAW) to go through the raw-converter of your choice (DPP, Lightroom....) and correct the pics: lens-corrections, de-noise as good as possible (since HDR multiplies noise somehow), and whitebalance them.
Don't do any exposure corrections. Then save as lossless as possible (tiff?) and proceed with SNS.

But then, I am still learning, too. 

I guess by accident you pressed "menu" to hide the zebras line.
In the "prefs" page there is a point saying "display hidden menus". If you toggle this, the hidden items should appear again.

Hope that helps.

Hi,

the question is: What do you consider a decent HDR-pic?
The workflow would be: Put your camera on a mount, activate the HDR-bracketing function in ML, either in automatic or set some manual values (automatic works pretty good), choose your camera settings, then have everything on manual (autofocus off, IS off) and press the shutter once. Then your camera should click a few times.
At home just drag and drop those pics into SNS or select them via the "open" dialogue, SNS will sort them by itself into the right order, then make some coffee and after about ten minutes get back to your computer (it takes a while for SNS to load, sort, overlap, de-ghost and tonemap the pics). Then either choose one of the presets or start pushing the sliders.
If that was too detailed, please forgive me, but your question was a bit vague.

Personal thought: I tried quite a few HDR-progs, but for that pricetag SNS seemed to be the best one for me. Plus, the author of the program is very active in a german "DSLR-forum". He writes in english, so even non-germans could take some advantage of it (him being polish by nature).

Hope I could help.

Hi.
The full free version is available in august, but if you support the incredible work with a small donation (see donation buttons on the website) then you will get access right after the donation.

The program itself comes in a zip-file and needs to be unzipped on your computer, copied to a SD-card, and installed in the camera via firmware-update, although it isn't really a firmware update, it just takes that path (details can be read in the user guide, which is always free to download). Another way would be via EOS-utility, but there again as firmware-update.

Hope I could help.

Schönen Gruß aus dem Süden. 

Hi.

Every picture is good enough, if YOU like it yourself (unless you have to earn money with them).
I like the slightly exaggerated look of HDR, too. Some say it is too much, but it depends on the purpose, I think. Do you want it to look impressive or is it for some realistic documentary series, that should be the question.

I like the car pictures, they almost start to glow.

Schönen Gruß aus Bayern.

Hi, greetings to Poland.

How did you do your HDR? Is it the movie-function from ML or did you use pictures?
If you used the ML-HDR movie, how did you join the two exposures?

Grüß Dich Dirk, schönen Gruß zurück aus Deutschland

Seems like for every menu entry there is someone needing it. (except maybe the "Don't click me" button)
Would it be possible to hide individual menu lines and have a little arrow to show all when needed? Like in the windows menus, where seldom-used items hide themselves, but user-configurable?

According to the writer of this effect in Lightworks it is more of a min and max filtering of the two tracks and then blending together, with a variable threshold in between.
I will try a few other setups and try to find a suitable scenery to do some more testing. But yes, it doesn't seem to be real tonemapping.
So the long workflow would be to render image sequences for the two exposures and then batch process them through a real HDR-prog, is that right?
Or are there other solutions around, preferably not with real expensive software like AE?

Hi.

I just found your tool while strolling through the forum, can't test it now because I'm on work.
It sounds definitely useful, especially all the options to treat the files.
I already have a feature request (you asked for it): Do you know the tool "QTChange"? I use it to get real TC into the files. Is there a possibility to have that functionality in your tool?

Greetings,
  Schloime

Hi.
Technicolor is a picturestyle. You can download new picturestyles not only from canon, but from other suppliers, too. I just don't know the web-address right now.
The Technicolor style is very flat, meaning low contrast, low saturation, low sharpness, to allow more freedom in PP. It is also supposed to bring in a little bit more dynamic range, but there is another thread in this forum with a very thorough comparison between Technicolor and other styles.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=948.0

Beautiful video, lots of nice shots, and a nice play with words in the title.

But if I am allowed to nitpick here: The tilt-shift or miniature technique (what is the official word for that?) is very suitable for these timelapse movies of towns, I like it very much. It looks perfect for example on the trainstation.
But technically it is a very shallow DOF effect. DOF depends on distance, so the one shot in the shopping mall with the elevators looks a bit strange, because all floors are about the same distance to the viewer, but the top and bottom floors are out of focus and the middle one is in.
Again, it's only a tiny, small critique for a very nice movie.

Hi.

Anybody using Lightworks out there?
Basically it's the same workflow as described in Blender, but one of the forum-members created an user-effect especially for ML-HDR videos.
You still have to separate the two exposures, either with the doublespeed, two tracks, slip-one-frame approach or with an external prog, but then you just slap the "HDR" effect over them and get three sliders called threshold, contrast and gain.
Very easy to use. A short example can be seen here, but don't expect any spectacular shot, it's just a test.