Paying me ! hah no..there is now way I'd do it for pay. I am just an ex- Young Farmers Club member.
Took me a while to get back to this thread..sorry, did not receive any e-mail notification of your replies...
I read the warning about ML on the 5DIII so have not installed it..as it seems there are some irreveresable actions caused but the instal..Or am I reading it wrong. I am not prepared to risk any camera bricking so close to needing to use it.
Have shot three nights, one more to go.
Am having to settle on just a fixed camera position..there is just not room to move around.
Only having a ball head and no fluid pan and tilt, any panning is just too fought and jerky..plus the lost footage while re focusing
Also having to deal with wildly differing sounds levels between speech and crowd applause, means I need another set of hands to control the mixer deck levels for the sound and try and do anything with the camera.
RAW was out form the start...it would have been nice in theory, but no way I have the kit to do it. Also the short clip length would be of no use. Need at least the full 30 mins..if not longer segments....plus memory card capacity. I have a 32 CF and 16 SD, so even ALL-I creates too large files.
The whole thing about making the camera boot 1-2 seconds slower and no way to go back is totally un acceptable for me, tho sis just a photography hobby, with a camera that cost 3 months wages...so and not going to risk it in any way.
The problem I am having is how to set exposure.
I already did the white balance on the first night with a grey card..but what exposure mode to use is the issue.
Since focusing is impossible ..I am viewing camera output on a normal flat screen non HD TV via the camera AV output to the yellow video TV screen input.
So I need to set a focus point and rely on depth of field to keep front to rear stage in focus...about 3 meter depth from from to rear ..about 12 meters from camera position
tried various lenses..
35mm f1.4...too wide field of view.
50mm f1.8...too wide field of view..
70 from the 70-200f2.8 too narrow field of view.
So tonight going to try the 24-70 f2.8 set to around 60mm. just been up to check and that gives required angle of view.
But back to exposure..what do I use ?
Ideally need a fixed aperture of around f5.6 or f 8 I reckon to give a good enough Dof...but also (if I understand correctly ) need to set shutter speed for 50th sec for the 25fps rate.
I tried manual mode with Auto ISO..but that gives constant over exposure and there is no exposure compensation..
So that almost means leaving a fixed exposure for the whole shoot ...
So far I have been running in Tv mode with 50th sec shutter speed.
Need to then use the main rear dial to dial down the exposure compensation by about 2 to 3 stops to keep the faces from blowing out.
The trouble with the standard camera firmware is that in the Tv mode..you have ono indication or ability to change ISO apart from stopping the shoot and going to the ISO BUTTON...Taking a guess at what ISO to set..filming some more that looking at result..
Ideal would be to set both shutter speed and aperture manually , then use AUTO ISO with compensation. If it was possible to set pot light metering in the default firmware then this would probably work..but it seems that is not possible.
Took me a while to get back to this thread..sorry, did not receive any e-mail notification of your replies...
I read the warning about ML on the 5DIII so have not installed it..as it seems there are some irreveresable actions caused but the instal..Or am I reading it wrong. I am not prepared to risk any camera bricking so close to needing to use it.
Have shot three nights, one more to go.
Am having to settle on just a fixed camera position..there is just not room to move around.
Only having a ball head and no fluid pan and tilt, any panning is just too fought and jerky..plus the lost footage while re focusing
Also having to deal with wildly differing sounds levels between speech and crowd applause, means I need another set of hands to control the mixer deck levels for the sound and try and do anything with the camera.
RAW was out form the start...it would have been nice in theory, but no way I have the kit to do it. Also the short clip length would be of no use. Need at least the full 30 mins..if not longer segments....plus memory card capacity. I have a 32 CF and 16 SD, so even ALL-I creates too large files.
The whole thing about making the camera boot 1-2 seconds slower and no way to go back is totally un acceptable for me, tho sis just a photography hobby, with a camera that cost 3 months wages...so and not going to risk it in any way.
The problem I am having is how to set exposure.
I already did the white balance on the first night with a grey card..but what exposure mode to use is the issue.
Since focusing is impossible ..I am viewing camera output on a normal flat screen non HD TV via the camera AV output to the yellow video TV screen input.
So I need to set a focus point and rely on depth of field to keep front to rear stage in focus...about 3 meter depth from from to rear ..about 12 meters from camera position
tried various lenses..
35mm f1.4...too wide field of view.
50mm f1.8...too wide field of view..
70 from the 70-200f2.8 too narrow field of view.
So tonight going to try the 24-70 f2.8 set to around 60mm. just been up to check and that gives required angle of view.
But back to exposure..what do I use ?
Ideally need a fixed aperture of around f5.6 or f 8 I reckon to give a good enough Dof...but also (if I understand correctly ) need to set shutter speed for 50th sec for the 25fps rate.
I tried manual mode with Auto ISO..but that gives constant over exposure and there is no exposure compensation..
So that almost means leaving a fixed exposure for the whole shoot ...
So far I have been running in Tv mode with 50th sec shutter speed.
Need to then use the main rear dial to dial down the exposure compensation by about 2 to 3 stops to keep the faces from blowing out.
The trouble with the standard camera firmware is that in the Tv mode..you have ono indication or ability to change ISO apart from stopping the shoot and going to the ISO BUTTON...Taking a guess at what ISO to set..filming some more that looking at result..
Ideal would be to set both shutter speed and aperture manually , then use AUTO ISO with compensation. If it was possible to set pot light metering in the default firmware then this would probably work..but it seems that is not possible.