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Would love to hear specifically which ML functions you are missing switching from 5D3 to R5. A genuine, non-rhetorical question.

Focus Peaking for video and zebras in over exposure places on image review are the main thing so far. Magic zoom was also really handy.

Seems like there was also some custom button programming I did that I can't figure out how to replicate on the R5 (like changing the ISO by holding the select button and just rolling the front switch). Maybe that was a normal canon setting but its been so many years ago I don't remember how i configured it.

Maybe the R5 can do all of these things, but I haven't figured out how yet.

Been a while since I was on the ML forums - recently upgraded from a 5DMK3 finally to an R5, already missing some magic lantern functions...

didn't read through all 12 pages, do we have a semi-stable build that works on the R5 now?

That is some beautiful footage. Have been considering a gimbal myself for use with my 5d3. Overall, are you satisfied with the Crane 2? This model keeps popping up in most of my research.

I have the same card also and have been only able to get continuous recording of 1080p at 24fps. At 30 I get about 13 seconds. Despite the advertised speeds (and costs...) It looks like the  komputerbay cards are better in this regard

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That makes much more sense to me - because a few I watched several times trying to figure out exactly how you were doing it, I'm not a post process expert by any means but I was racking my brain trying to figure out how you were able to make them look the way you did.

How many hours do you estimate in this project for filming and then editing?

That was amazing, wow! Your transitions in particular I think were extremely well done, love it.

Just wanted to reply and say - I also successfully downgraded from 1.2.3 by copying the  1.1.3 Firmware to my CF file and just running the in-camera firmware update. I got the file from here: http://pel.hu/eoscard/

For anyone else researching / going through the same process, it was about as painless as it could be

Anything similar to my two posts here;

http://magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7139.2325

?

I believe I may have already formatted my camera - I will check and see a bit later on.

Still had it; https://www.dropbox.com/s/kf0076boqzecpk5/_CPB0798.CR2?dl=0

Try giving this a whirl;

https://www.dropbox.com/s/db8w1nys24cb5wk/_CPB0798.dng?dl=0

Note: I am processing with the non 20bit version of CR2HDR.

I wanted to give an update on my experience and success in removing the color banding in patterns on photos. I am in real-estate and therefore am around a lot of brick and patterns when using dual ISO. Attached is a screenshot with a before and after, when using some of the color correction and CA tools in Lightroom. The photo is at a 100% crop in these screen caps, a tiny bit of the green color banding in the brick pattern is still visible, but when you shrink it down to a usable size, you'll never notice it.

Hope this helps and is useful for others.

http://wgolightly.smugmug.com/Misc/i-tG8mnXH/0/O/DualISOCorrections.jpg

Real-estate photo with High-Dynamic range with my new to me 5D3 from a back porch.

I don't have the RAW files here at home to do a direct comparison, but I'll share what I did.

I went into develop mode, (LR 5.x), Down to lens correction. I applied the normal Lens distortion correction process, and then started playing around with these, and wound up with pretty decent results somewhere in this neighborhood (I went from memory to show here, ymmv).


http://tinypic.com/r/m81ov8/8



I do not have the RAW or completed photos I edited here at home, perhaps later today I'll be able to post a before and after.

Okay then. For anyone else, I ran a Chromatic Aberration removal on the photo in LR after playing with the sliders a bit and it went away entirely, and also on another photo I had in the back yard of some white fence rail. Its not like it had that effect on every one of them in a consistent manner like typical CA, so thats what I was asking.

The T3i had some aliasing jaggies and moire patterns in shingles from time to time which I am accustomed to, but never produced anything quite like this with the color banding.

I only shot about 10,000 with my T3i and never had this issue, hence the question.

Got it Garry, Thanks for the reply, I've been able to play around with it a bit and am getting good results again finally

Quick question - I am seeing a bit of funky pinkish/green bending in certain areas, basically in high contrast areas where you would have some Chromatic Aberrations with a typical photo. Not at all prevalent unless pixel peeping, but wanted to mention it none the less. Could the experts have a look see and let me know whether this is typical/expected or not? 5D3, with the new 16-35 F4L lens, using 100/1600 iso setting.

http://tinypic.com/r/o05u36/8

The Canon 10-22 will work with the removal of the back lens plastic block to keep the shutter from hitting it, and you can't go any wider than about 13-14mm from what I recall. Just google "10-22 on full frame" or 10-22 on 5d and you'll find a couple of other forum threads where guys have done it.

I need some guidance - I've been using ML on T3i with Dual ISO pretty much ever sine it was released and had really good results.

I've since upgraded to a 5D3 (Merry Christmas to myself ) with latest nightly build and the field is a bit different in that I set the base ISO via the Canon menu, and then teh secondary one via ML, which is fine, I got that part.

What I *am* a little confused about is, how exactly to set this based on my shooting style. I have learned you can use the +/- EV settings to couple with automatic ISO mode which seems very handy. In practice on editing the files though, I am not getting near the results and dynamic range I was on the T3i shooting say 100/800 and then manually under exposing a stop to get color and clouds in the sky in addition to well lighted scenery-this is basically my intended end use.

I have the 5D3 set to -3EV and I just can't seem to duplicate my previous results, I can't bring out the highlights. 

If anyone can help me fully understand the menu choices and usage of this, I'd like to help write a small guide for other poor souls like myself

That fixed it, thanks!

Now I gotta read the help files and learn the menu a bit, its laid out differently with a different option set than the version I had on my T3i - I had 2 ISO's to work with before and now it has a "Recovery ISO" field instead.

Query;

I am currently running ML newest nightly build on an SD card only in my 5d3. I wanted to enable dual ISO and it tells me to enable RAW photo quality from the Canon menu, which I have. However since I'm running SD card only in the second slot, I'm assuming dual iso is checking for the CF card and not finding it, causing this message. Just wondered if anyone could confirm or perhaps let me know if I am doing something wrong

Have used dual iso on my t3i a lot in the past and been very surprised and impressed with what it could do.

Amazing film, wow!

Crop mode? What lens(es)? Nice results!

Has anyone gotten brave enough to try ML on a 7d mkii yet, or where do we begin?

Nice work - since you were shooting in crop mode, what lens(es) were you using mostly? Any ND filters for the bright sun to keep the aperatures from getting too small? Your wide angle views are incredibly sharp.

No raw video here, but a lowly T3i and an el cheapo 50mm 1.8

It is amazing to me how good of video these cameras can do when everything is setup perfectly, the shallow DOF quality on this camera is amazing to me even without raw, I wish I could get things this sharp on wider views and deep DOF stuff.

Magic Zoom and focus peaks were used on it, first time playing around with my slider.