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I was using MLV. Accidentally I reseted my ML settings - took my some time to enable silent pic as I totally forgot how I activated it some time ago - and now the cam takes pictures every two seconds without stopping when I set it to 1 sec. Before it would stop, if there was not enough time to save the picture so I had to set the interval meter to 4 sec. So 0.5 FPS is already some improvement... but 18 in 25 would be better.


When I set the interval meter to "like crazy" it takes RAW pictures instead of MLV.

I searched for the OC modules on the cam... and found out I have only Nightly.2018.Jul03.EOSM202 build. What build would you recommend to use silent pic and oc mode together? I recently bought the cam as my old one was broken and this was the build that was there.

Maybe this is the reason I have no "Full-Res LV" in the silent pic menu. Only "Full-res", "Simple", "Burst"...

I could imagine using OC will make it only a little bit faster? Or? In this case I could stick to the old card instead buying a new faster one. Happy to hear opinion on this.


Thank you!

Hey, hey! 

I know its an old topic... but I just now discovered this SD overclock thing... And I was wondering if someone tried it out with silent picture mode?

My aim would be to take more pictures... at the moment I think it needs 1-3 seconds to save the picture. So I can take picture only every some seconds with silent picture on. Is it possible to make more, like every second or this other mode "take pictures like crazy" ?

Thank to all of you beautiful people here!  <3


Andre

PS : If anyway I can not take pictures faster, then probably I would buy a cheaper card. What standard would you recommend? UHS-1, V10, Class 10... sorry if this sound dumb.

Dear community!

I was using either intervalometer or advanced bracket without any problem. When I combined them (every 15 sec, 3 frames "0,-,+") it works fine at the beginning... but after some time it makes some wrong pictures, e.g. with the same exposure, and after this all the following pictures become too dark.

For experiment tried also with only 2 frames with "0,-". In this case it sometimes makes the same exposure for some pictures but at least after maybe 1-6 wrong pictures it starts again to make it correct untill it again makes some wrong (same exposere) pictures. So the pictures with the wrong exposure I need to delete and this are then missing in the timelaps what doesn't look good. Also the process of manually finding them and deleting is annoying...

Is there some known problem or some advice/description how to do HDR + intervalmeter?


Sorry, I am quite new to the topic, tried to search the forum but did not find this particular problem. If you have a link I am up to read!

I hope this forum is still active, even the camera is so old. Thank you very much everyone!


Greetings

Andre

HI all!

My EOS M 2.0.2 just arrived today. Anyway, I have to go shooting at a conert in view hours and would like to use the eos m as a static second cam.

Was reading this thread - but did not really got the info I needed. What is the best build for now, lets say the most stable? I am also very confused with two versions tragiclatern and magiclatern ? They have both versions for my eos m 2.0.2 . What is the difference... And is this install instruction still correct? => 

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg64830#msg64830


Thank you guys!

Andre


@enricobartolucci : nice setup of you cam. What viewfinder and handle did you use?