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Messages - sloore

#1
Make sure you do it on your computer and (in windows 7 anyway) uncheck the "quick format" option.  From my experiments so far, I've seen that even exFAT works, so if you're going to go through the trouble of doing a slow format, you might as well get the higher file sizes allowed by exFAT.  Now, I've only used exFAT after I had already installed ML on my camera, so I dunno if you can run "update firmware" on your camera with an exFAT formatted card, so be wary of that.  I'll be doing some further experiments this week to see what I can get away with.
#2
I've gotten excellent results using Nuke.  It has a node called TVIScale which multiplies the dimensions by 2(the width gets doubled and the height gets doubled) so the result is that that all those 960x540 raw videos shot by the T3i are at the ideal resolution to get automatically turned into 1080p footage using TVIscale.  I've even managed to plug a second TVIScale node in to get 3840x2160 resolution and it still looks mighty fine.  I still like to run it through After Effects and Camera Raw first in order to knock down the noise in the footage first, but it really looks nice when all is said and done.

I know it's not exactly a solution for everybody considering the prohibitive costs, but if you have access to it already like I do, then it is definitely the way to go IMO.  From what I've seen myself and all the research I've done so far, going with Nuke is the way to go.

I only just managed to get raw video working reliably on my camera with ML, so you'll have to wait a bit, but I'm going to post some test footage on here some time soon with a breakdown of my workflow.
#3
oooookkkkkaaaayyyyy



So, after doing some further looking, I have managed to narrow it down to an issue with the SD card.  I took the one that was giving me the problems, reformatted it again, but unlike every previous format, I did it through my computer and unchecked the "quick format" button.  It took a good long bit(about ten or fifteen minutes compared to the several second format time that the camera does), then copied the contents of the good card onto it.  After shooting about twenty minutes worth of footage, it looks like I've more or less fixed the problem, and though it does appear that the first shot after turning the camera on does seem to have a higher chance of getting pink frames; and multiple ones at that, every subsequent shot seems to be fine.  The only other issue seems to be that I get the occasional pink frame within the first second of "non-first" shots, but that's fine as I will almost never need anything from that early on in a shot.


From what I can gather, it seems that the pink frames seem to be a symptom of a lack of writing speed, and that once the camera or SD card have "warmed up" from the first shot, the problem largely goes away, and similarly it appears that the camera needs about a second to ramp up its write speed after it starts recording.  The UI says as much when I shoot with it starting out by telling me to expect to only get a couple thousand frames, and then that figure gets bigger and bigger until it eventually says that continuous shooting is OK.

I'm still curious as to what exactly caused the pink frames in the first place.  Was it a setting I had set which was saved on the offending SD card or was it a consequence of not doing a detailed enough format of it?  I've read that you should reformat your SD cards pretty often if you write to it a lot, and shooting raw video obviously does that.  I'm going to do some more experiments and reformat the card while installing fresh copies of ML and TL on the card in stead of copying them over from what was written on the good card.
#4
I know that I already posted a thread earlier about fixing pink frames in post, but due to a lack of answers to that and the realization that trying to fix pink frames in post is not a practical solution for anything but a few minutes of footage, I am trying to find a way to fix the problem from the camera end.  So I put it to the folks here.

When I originally started shooting raw footage with magic lantern(same versions of ML and Tragic Lantern as there is now), I had little to no problem with pink frames, I would get the odd one here and there, usually at the beginning of a vlip, but that was it.  Now, I'm just getting them all the time, some shots have sections of footage where at least one in ten frames is pink.  I am not sure what changed to cause it.  The first time I noticed it was after the camera had sat in the trunk during a long car trip, so I wondered if it had to do with the camera being too hot, but even after the camera has sat in a cool spot for an extended period, the problem persists.  I have played around with all sorts of settings, but have not seen any correlating improvement to any change in settings.  I've gone down from 960x540 to a smaller 960x480, I've turned on DIGIC Poke(dunno what that does) since there was a thread on this forum where someone said "DIGIC V is immune to pink frames," I've reformatted to exFAT, , I've wiped my card and went with a clean install of ML and TL, I've played around with the liveview and global draw settings, I don't use sound recording, and have yet to find a setting that fixes the problem.  Though there are a lot of settings I can change and right now I'm just randomly changing things around without the slightest idea as to what is causing the problem.

So far the only thing that I've found is that I get better results with a a different card.  My faster card is a Sandisk extreme 95mb/s 32GB, and my slower card is a transcend class 10 32GB which I think can only write at about 20mb/s tops.  Ironically enough, the slower card gives me better results, but I have drop the resolution all the way down to 832x416 and besides, that doesn't make sense anyway.  Is it possible that an SD card can go bad?  Mind you, I've only had the sandisk card for a couple weeks.


Can someone tell me at least what general area I should be looking toward or if it is known what settings cause pink frames or at least increase/decrease the chances of getting them?

From what I've found in my searching the current versions of both ML and TL don't have much of a problem with pink frames, so I'm guessing that it's not a problem with the firmware itself.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks
#5
General Help Q&A / What exactly are "pink frames?"
July 21, 2013, 02:47:20 AM
So I am new to Magic Lantern as many others here are, and I do apologize if this has been covered, but I have not been able to find anything regarding this specific question even after searching both the forum and the wiki.  I don't know if I'm using the wrong terminology, or if in fact this has not been specifically covered yet.  I have a T3i(600D) with ML and Tragic Lantern installed.  I've had few problems with it, though on occassion I've noticed that I do get the occasional pink frame here and there. 

Most recently I shot some footage and a number of the shots had more than one pink frame in it, one was about 42 seconds(about 1000 frames) and had ten pink frames in it.  Now, I have been looking for ways to fix this, one of which is to bring the footage into after effects, import small chunks of the offending clip that surround the pink frames, get rid of the pink frame itself, effectively shortening the clip by a frame, then timewarp it to be a frame longer.  Finally I would then splice the chunks back into the full clip and re-render the whole thing out again.  This seems a bit inefficient to me, but if that's what I've gotta do...

However, upon closer inspection, I've noticed that the pink frames are actually not just frames that have been colored pink, but are pink colored frames that are either from a different clip, or from a very different part of the same clip.  I'm guessing that this is some sort of buffering issue where either the camera itself or ML is writing a previously buffered frame into a place that it doesn't belong.  My uncertainty is whether this pink frame has actually overwritten a frame that was supposed to be there or if it was an "extra frame" that was inserted into the clip between consecutive frames.  So I guess what I'm asking is:  Can I fix video clips with pink frames by simply deleting them and then pushing the rest of the clip forward a frame to fill in the space?  Or will this simply result in desynced sound?

Also, I've been looking around and haven't found anything specific, but are there any settings that drastically reduce or increase the chance of getting pink frames?  Again, sorry if this has been dealt with elsewhere, but I have already looked with no luck.


Thanks in advance.