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I was wondering if anyone had a quick and dirty time-lapse workflow.. I was thinking of using RAW video.. Off the top of my head, I'm thinking I would set my FPS override to something low like 4-12 FPS and then speed in up in my editor to whatever frame rate I was producing at..

Any tips?

Hey Guys.. I've been having a blast with my 50d raw footage. Thanks again!

First, I've just installed the latest Tragic Lantern from Andy600 and I'm using the Komputer Bay 1000x 32gb card.

That said, I'm having a hard time getting a resolution beyond 1920 wide.. I was hoping that by altering my aspect ratio to something like 2.5:1 I could get 1920 wide and beyond and still get 6+sec shots..

Any clues or ideas.. Is there another build I should use?

Well flip raw on/off if you're going between movie and photo mode to get correct indicators.

Photo/Video mode the expo will be different and you need to toggle raw video for it to recognize this... officially its only supposed to use movie mode but flipping back and forth can bring write speed up to 80s/max faster.

Someone should check on how well histogram matches from DNG to indicators.

Also watch out for ACR shifting expo. ETTR is supposed to be a tiny bit "blow out" on the LCD.

Thanks for the tips.. I'm still getting my bearings when it comes to interpreting a Histogram.. I'm realizing that what I'm expecting the exposure to look like and what the histogram to look like aren't necessarily correct.. I'm going to make sure I'm using my waveform as well.. err.. I need a lot more practice..

Also watch out for ACR shifting expo.

I think I know what you mean by this.. When I load ACR I make sure to select the default settings before making any other adjustments..

I'm having a hard time getting my exposures right. I understand I should use the Histogram in camera, with that I set a ETTR, but my image in my LCD looks blown out.. also when I load the DNGs into ACR my histogram doesn't match what I setup in camera.

Might this be a bug? or am I missing something?

I'm updating to Andy's latest build as we speak..

I've done another test with Andy's latest build and I'm getting weird blow outs in my footage.. I follow common rules by prioritizing my shutter speed to 180 degrees of my fps (1/48 to 24fps).. I keep my ISO (160 or 360 to keep the ISO analogue)  as low as possible.. and then I adjust my F-stop to get my histogram as close to the right as possible.. I'll push the highlights over a bit and then bring it back.

I can't help but think there is something else messing with my exposure..

My goal is to simply turn my camera on and be able to get usable footage as consistently as possible. Then I'll work on getting creative..

I'm having a hard time getting my exposures right. I understand I should use the Histogram in camera, with that I set a ETTR, but my image in my LCD looks blown out.. also when I load the DNGs into ACR my histogram doesn't match what I setup in camera.

Might this be a bug? or am I missing something?

I'm updating to Andy's latest build as we speak..

I was doing some 50d low light exposure research and I found that the 50d has full stop and incremental stop ISO capabilities.. Full stops are mechanical (electrical.. i.e. cleaner) than the incremental stops that interpolated via canon firmware.

I found many complaints about the 50d "low light" and some were saying that if you stick to the "full stops" when setting ISO you'll get the results you'd expect from this level of camera.

So my question is.. How is ML handling ISO settings? When do I have a full stop vs a incremental stop?

While looking a some low light work in ACR I'm coming across a lot of blue artifacts.. Any guidance on what causes these and how to avoid them?

Try this one: https://bitbucket.org/andy600/andy50d/downloads/raw2dng.exe

Ugh.. So I did some more shooting today and this evening, and my first 12 or so takes convert just fine. Just now I got half way through a batch of 15 takes I took this evening right a dusk and half way through I started getting that interlacing method not support thing again..

Raw2cDng seems to be working.. I'm not sure if it's a raw2dng bug or my RAW files?

If your card can record continuously it will record split files up to the cards limit. You just need to use an app or script to stitch them together. Raw2cdng will do it automatically

Thanks.. I guess I needed to dig a little deeper I just successful joined 2 and converted with RAW2Dng! PROGRESS :p

Has anyone seen any differences is dng quality among the different raw converters?

Just to clarify.. I take it there is no way to get past the 4gb RAW file limit?

Sorta defeats the 50d's writing speed capabilities.. at 1584x856 I can't seem to more than a min of continous footage..

Try this one: https://bitbucket.org/andy600/andy50d/downloads/raw2dng.exe

I tried the raw2dng.exe your suggested with the RAWs from last night and the same thing happens..

So I did a fresh install of your latest unified build by re-installing the 1.0.9 50d firmware, reformatting my 32g Kumputerbay 1000x card, and reinstalling ML. That seemed to clear it up. Weird.

@thorstone137 - First, why are jumping in and out of Live View and changing settings? Also, I noticed you have auto WB enabled. Set WB manually or at least use a preset (daylight, cloudy, tungsten etc). I don't know if auto WB will cause color shift during a shot but my guess is that it could.

The 'purple' frame issue is something else. What build are you using?

Regarding your conversion problem. Interlacing error? I've not seen this before  . Is Raw2dng.exe displaying this error and if so can you explain the steps you are taking to see the error? Does it happen when you drag-and-drop a raw file onto raw2dng.exe.

I'm using your latest build. I'll try manual WB. Here is a screen shot of my try to run Raw2dng

After having success indoors. I decided to take a walk and get some footage. When using the latest Raw2dng I got a interlacing method not supported on all my raw files.. what the?

Raw2cDng won't even let me load them in the program..

Any clues?

Actually, I just remembered while I was in live view my greys and blacks would shift to a purple for a sec and then shift back for a couple secs and then back to purple.. It was a first for me..

I've tried several more since I got home and I get the same thing when using Raw2dng.exe

interlacing method not supported
iso bdbd

Here's a video of the shutter lock issue I was talking about

Green values = exactly how it sounds. The shutter numbers are green (or blue or red).

As I said earlier, using C1 or C2 will load settings exactly as they were saved unless overriden by magic lantern settings. If your shutter value is constantly changing you're either playing with the front wheel or some other ML setting is affecting things.

Ok.. So, I went through my settings and found that under "Movie Tweeks" I had "Shutter Lock - On". Turning it off seemed to stop the shutter speed from changing randomly.

That said, when I load C1 my settings are what they should be. I trash out of ML and hit the live view button then I hit the trash button to see my ML settings and my shutter speed changes to roughly 1/80. This is the same number that is at the bottom of my screen in "Green".

When I back out the same way and don't try to change the shutter speed by closing the live view screen and then hitting trash to bring up the ML settings my shutter speed is at 1/48 again.

When the live view screen is active and I see 1/80 and try to lower it to something close it won't let me set it to 1/48. However many stops down I try to take it from 1/80 reflects on the shutter speed though. For example, if I tried 3 stops down and then backed out by turning of live view and then bring up the ML settings my shutter speed will be at 1/45 rather than 1/48..

Is this normal?

When I first turn on my camera at my C1 settings I have set shutter speed of 1/48 to my 24FPS. Then when I switch to live view to see my exposure my shutter speed changes. How and why? :p

It's a big topic but for a quick and very basic set up:

Set FPS to 23.976, 24 or 25p with FPS Override (set FPS override to exact)
Set shutter speed to one of the green values (these are approx 180 degrees)
Set histogram to raw
use the aperture and ISO to push exposure to the right of the histogram. If you see a "-" in front of the exposure value on the histogram you are clipping i.e. E1.0 is ok but E-1.0 is clipping so adjust your aperture and/or ISO to pull it back.

As I say, this is a pretty big topic with many variations of settings either for the shooting conditions, subject matter or for effect (i.e. Private Ryan) but these settings will get you started with (when used properly) good motion blur and good exposure. Don't forget to conform your footage in your NLE to whatever framerate you set FPS override to or you'll get glitchy playback.

If you let the shutter go wild you'll get un-natural looking footage so either try to stay at or around 2x your framerate and then read up on when and why to change the shutter speed.

Thanks Andy. Obviously I'm a newbie, but I've been trying to do my research. It's pretty cool how much is out there if you look. Everything was telling me I needed to get the shutter speed right. So I appreciate your confirmation.

What do you mean by "Green Values"?

Is my shutter speed in the ML Exposure settings suppose to be changing automatically?

Exp override = yes

Shutter speed depends on what you are shooting or what look you are trying to achieve for the motion/motion blur. 1/24 at 24p is a 360 degree shutter. The typical shutter speed for natural motion blur is fps x2 so 24fps would mean 1/48 shutter speed. Go higher for less motion blur and a more choppy look and lower for low light (only if you have to).

ISO is wholly dependent on what you need to achieve correct exposure at your chosen aperture and shutter speed.

I realize these modules can and will be buggy, and I'm not trying to make a motion picture or doing and commercial work. However, I really would like to start getting consistent results.

And because you are working on a manual so to speak. I'm still meerky when it comes to get a that consistent shutter speed. Should I be prioritizing the FPS (23.976 or 24 for that cinematic look) and let the shutter speed do it's thing?

Or should I be using filters to make sure I always get the shutter speed correct?

What photo mode are you in?

You should at least be in 'M' manual mode and preferably in a duplicate of it written to a custom preset (C1 or C2) on the top mode dial.

Tv = Time value for auto exposure with shutter priority (which you certainly don't want for video).

All basic camera stuff TBH. I worry when I see people trying to run before they can walk. 

Thanks for tips Andy For the record I was in M mode. I just got my 50d(without a manual) so I hadn't caught up on the C settings; I've made my presets.

Any tips on setting up the histogram? I understand how to navigate to it and make sure it's on. And I've read up on ETTR so I get that.. And I realize it's an exposure equation of ISO, Aperture, and Shutter speed..

I guess where I'm getting lost is trying to understand where the line or balance is between canon firmware settings and ML's and how they effect each other.

Hi

Today I also did some shoot out to test crop mode, will post later. I always put it in M mode, check my settings and shutter in "photo" mode before record. Also in very bright (sun) light I use viewfinder to check, do the focus and then switch to live view for raw recording. This gives me the best & sharp results. If you don't have any filter then shutter must be set higher than 1/48 in bright light.

One more thing: if your "live view" does not really do what you expect in your setting (shutter, iso etc), goto menu, 6th, Live View function settings, expo simulation: Enable 

hope this helps :-)

Thanks But I don't understand how you're in M mode and then putting shutter in "photo".. What am I missing here?

Right. I hear ya. I'll try this build

Hello. I can't seem to figure out how to read and set my shutter speed settings in ML..

How come when every I make adjustments to ISO my shutter speed changes?

What are the Tv numbers?

Sometimes I can't get my shutter speed setting down to 1/48, how come?

Thanks

[I've been having a hard time nailing down how to get some of the great results others have been sharing here.]

Hello Everyone!

HECK YEAH FOR ML AND RAW VIDEO!!

There is so much discussion here regarding ML's new RAW video capabilities; it's truly great to see!

With that, I'm into creative imaging and a newbie videographer. I've been having a hard time nailing down how to get some of the great results others have been sharing here. Many are sharing part of their settings, but for me something is missing as I can't seem to reproduce the results. I was thinking that it'd be a good idea to start a thread where folks can share their complete workflows from start to finish.

I realize that different style require different workflows and rather than seeking help with my own, I though it'd be more beneficial to everyone if folks could share their work and how to get it done. That way us newbies and others alike can take what they think might work to complete what their trying to accomplish.

My specific issues have been with fps settings and shutter speeds; all of my results end up with my clips slightly sped up. Ugh.. So, I will start this thread according to what I think is needed in a complete workflow. Naturally, I hope the more experienced folks will chime in a share what I'm missing. I will monitor this thread and update this opener weekly (maybe more if it becomes popular).

DOWN TO BUSINESS:

What should be listed:

Camera
Lenses
ML Settings (FPS, Shutter Speed, Crop Settings, anything vital to capturing workable RAW)
RAW Conversion techniques (RAW2Dng, Raw2CDng, RAWnizer)
DNG to Video Techniques (Codecs, NLE's, etc)
Color Grade Techniques (Resolve, SpeedGrade, AE, etc..)
And anything else that might be missing..

Enjoy!