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This looks promising. But honestly have no clue on how to test it on my 650D. Can anyone give me a hint, that gets me started? Or a link maybe with the needed module, since the links have been removed...
Thanks

Hi
I got an error that the program told me to report:

Code Select Expand


Object reference is not set to an instance of an object.
at mlv_view_sharp.MLVReader.ReadBlock()
at mlv_view_sharp.MLVViewerForm.PlayFile()
at System.Threading.ThreadHelper.ThreadStart_Context(Object
state)
at System.Threading.ExecutionContext.Run(ExecutionContext
executionContext, ContextCallback callback, Object state)
at System.Threading.ThreadHelper.ThreadStart()


This is a translation as my system is set to German the original is here:
(http://s1.directupload.net/images/140409/2uqtebv3.png)

After the error the program crashed.

Some info about my System if needed:
CPU: i7 2600k, 8GB Ram. The data was moved from the SD card to a SSD in a seperate folder
OS: Win 7 Pro 64Bit
Camera: EOS 650D (Maybe thats the problem?)

This happens to all MLV files.


Sorry if that problem has already been reported.

I compose the shot right after I switched on raw. I just set up everything with the black bars on the display, so nothing is cut of or zoomed in.
Basically the raw video is like zooming in a bit. So you don't necessarily need to go back you can use a wider lens, if it still fits your visual style.
If the screen is to small with black bars on it, I suggest using a viewfinder, or a small external monitor to get a better view.

@SongsByHamilton: No. Raw Just reads out a certain area off the whole sensor and writes the image on the card without anything done to it.This means that there is a added crop factor to raw videos.
In normal video it uses what is called line skipping to process the image of the whole sensor into a single video. This is partly what causes moiré patterns.
This is not possible with raw due to camera limitations of processing power.
Another limitation is, that the controler of a T4i can only write just fast enough so that we are able to record 720p. Unfortunately the camera is not able to provide more write speed. This can not be fixed in the future since this is a hardware problem.
Still the 720p video will be way sharper and will have a much higher dynamic range than normal video.

@jimmyD30:
Can you explain what the 128 KB block size does, and why you should only use it for raw video? Obviously it gives a better performance, but whats the downside?

if you do it like an adult, then the music video, you must first draw the storyboard! then to take only those frames that are needed;)
...

Storyboards are only possible if there is a specific plan. Especially for rap videos this is very unlikely.
For most of the music videos this is how it is done. This way especially when working with people who are unfamiliar with cameras it is not important if they make mistakes like looking away from the camera. This is very likely for newer artists who never done this before.
Of course when there is a story in the video, a storyboard would be pretty useful. However it is not like I go out and randomly shoot scenes. I have the places and the things I want to get, but I just use many different angles to get more variation and to avoid the mistakes of the actor/musician.
You know new musicians have very tight time schedules so they can't redo a scene very often

...
I converted the raw file to dng using raw2dng.exe however non of my application is recognizing DNG format. so far i have tried PS cs6, LR5.
...

Even PS CS2 is capable of opening it. Lightroom 5 works fine for me too.
Are you sure you used the converted frames? Maybe you accidentally used the unconverted file. Every picture should be a single item (~24 pictures for each second of video). If you use the file where they are all saved in one file it does not work.

I only preview my videos later on the computer. I make sure that I get the focus and that's it. For this I use a second display, and/or a viewfinder,both along with focus peaking, depending on the situation/space I have.

As I said I almost only do music videos.I let the song play and record everything in one take (or at least much of it) than I choose another angle and do most of it again. I keep changing angles/locations again and again if it fits the song. Like this I have many different shots that I can combine so there is no need to preview everything on set. I have a song of 2-4 minutes, but in some circumstances 2 hours of footage, to choose from. This is the safest way to get it done, and also the way to have most possibilities. I also copy the memory cards on set, to have enough space with not that many cards.

If you really need to record something that is unique or that is important to nail it in one try, I suggest you should use normal recording.
Raw comes in handy for situations in darker areas and/or for situations with a lot of contrast (very dark and very light parts). For the rest you should be fine with normal video.

.... So you can shoot continuously till the end of the card? no dropped frames? If that's the case I'll get it.
...

No dropped frames. It records until the 4GB limit is reached. I never tried out more, since for me there is no need to remove the 4gb limit. Other users reported the same thing back in the old 650D thread.
I just think there are a lot of different versions out there, some might just be fake and some might not come close to the speed written on the card. Your card seems a bit low, even I though I can't tell if it is your card reader... This particular card works for me, so I' fine with it

I have no clue about your audio questions. I record music videos, so I have no need for Audio. I never even tried it.

@christo:
Why would you want to use a Micro SD card? I don't know what the adapter will do to the speed.
I think it is a waste of money anyways. I use Sandisk Extreme with 45MB/s, and I can do 720p without any trouble. The card gives me around 40MB/s write speed.
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004Q3C98S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&keywords=sandisk%20extreme&qid=1390851920&sr=8-3 ( I am not canadian I just used it to show you the card I use)
There is also a version of this card wich is colored gold instead of black. It's label/name is the same, but I don't know how this version performs. Maybe it is just something that is different in some countries, or a newer version of the card perhaps.

I have a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 10.1 "and I did root, used all the apps you have on the market and none of them identified my 650D ... Is it the usb cable? For the computer recognizes the camera using the same cable. ..

Well, I can use it on all my unrooted Android 4.0+ devices. (HTC One X+, Nextwolf 7, Asus Memopad FHD 10 the one with the x86 cpu). Root does not change that (checked it).
Only for the ones that don't support OTG Host, you will need root, to "unlock" the USB host function.
Maybe you should try it on a different device? If This does not work, it might be your cable. I use the original cable that came with the Camera, and a 4€ OTG host cable from Amazon.
Maybe there is even something messed up with the host function, if you use custom roms and different kernels.

However I still wonder why the ML app does not recognize the 650D. Maybe it has something to do with the 650D beeing in a alpha state. Or simply you need to adjust the App. I don't know for sure...
I am not even sure who develops the ML app.


@Frendo:
1: Are you talking about pictures? Flip the touchscreen and touch your eyes to focus. That should be all you need.
2: Yes, but you can easily remove it, with a few simple steps.

Guys, you can use the DSLR Controller ML in the 650D? Any app for android ML? I need to have my tablet rooted?

First of all you won't need root.
I think it depends on what kind of tablet you have. On my x86 device it just won't do anything. However on my ARM based device it sometimes does actually work, but that is a very rare case.
Most of the time it just gives me an error message "No ML found".
I guess if you only have a x86 device you can still emulate it, to get it working. But all in all I think the problem is more likely the 650D, than the device itself.

If I am allowed to make a suggestion here: use Helicon Remote ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.HeliconSoft.HeliconRemote2&hl ), it works on ARM and x86 based phones and tablets and does not depend on ML at all. Some Apps that are not free maybe offer even better service, but I have never tried them, since this is enough for me.

Hi,

Lately I got a little Idea. I have not clue if this is even possible at all, but I think it could be useful.

While recording RAW users of smaller cameras only have the possibility to record at 720p max. You can see the crop-marks. But it only fills a small part of the screen. I Wonder if it is possible to use something like, the already existing, magic zoom to fill the screen with the cropped area (or more of it).

This is especially useful, since you can not connect an external monitor while using the RAW feature. (it creates weird crops, and other stuff).


I created a little picture, to explain it a bit better: http://s14.directupload.net/images/131101/dgt3ev48.png
(this should be a flip screen camera, with the screen fliped out, I hope this is recognizable)

I Don't think this explanation is very good, but maybe someone gets the gist

Finding music for my Videos is not a problem. I use Magic Lantern to (help) create the music videos for my own songs 

And even if I don't do something related to my music, I can just create my own short music sequence. If you also want to do that you can check out FL Studio by Image Line. The basic Version is free. And you can do whatever you can imagine with it.


But I also know a few pages that allow you to have royalty free music:
http://freemusicarchive.org
http://royaltyfreekings.com
http://mattmcfarland.com
http://audionautix.com
http://anthonykozar.net/music
http://freemusicforvideos.com
http://beatsroyaltyfree.com

Also there are many beat producers on youtube. They usually are very happy if you use one of their pieces.

He said it in one of the descriptions.
I guess it's fake. He claims that the camera is such an old model, that the label is gone, so he does not know wich model it is. Yet it is in Full HD.
Also he only shows macro shots, and uses names of all the famous cameras in the titles to get more views...
This seems similar to the fake ML RAW shots from a 70D, a while ago...

@jljxafcem:
To use focus peaking, you have to enable it in Magic Lantern then go to your Liveview mode.
When you are in liveview you simply have to press the "Info" button until the ML overlay appears.

If you have further questions:
It could help if you write in English and in addition to it, in your mother tongue. Here are many users from all over the world, some may know your language

I am not an expert but for me it didn't affect the sharpness of the video in a noticeable way.

So can anyone tell me whats the "bad" thing about the chroma somooting?
Is it only noticeable if you apply color grading? Or is it something different that makes it "bad"?

Hi guys

I just stumbled upon something "weird". Whenever I use a HDMI monitor. If focus peaking is activated it gets me nothing but weird pink colored sections.
Is this a known error? Or is it just me again?   


Besides that the framing of RAW video is totally off with a monitor. (But I guess this is a known error)

I can't properly record RAW video with a monitor on my 650d due to wrong framing, just like 5D users. But there is no problem with playback, for me.

Question to the people with the problem: Can you use focus peaking properly? I get weird issues with a Monitor and this feature too.


@gybra: The first thing also happens on my 650d.

@spider: I just select it to create sub folders, for the output jpegs. It then puts each sequence in an individual sub folder.

anybody editing in vegas? i haven't yet found a workflow that works. what's your workflow?

thanks.

I use Vegas (Movie Platinum Version 12). Heres my Workflow:

1: Create Pictures with RAW2DNG
2.Use the PinkDotRemover
3. Drag all my files into Adobe Lightroom, edit them there. (you could also use Photoshop, but there you have to edit them and wait till they are all in jpeg format for each shot. In Lightroom you can edit every shot and then export them all together, so you are not forced to make many little breaks)
4.Export as .jpeg
5. Import.jpegs as a movie Sequence in Vegas
6. Do the rest of editing, cuts etc. and export the final Video

Hope it helps a bit

A Sandisk 45MB/s is fast enough. I use a 16GB version and I get 720p.

Benchmark I just did:


In case you think I am a liar, you can also look at the tests other buyers did... They are similar

Spider, are you saying you're getting 1280x720 on a 45 mb/s card with ML? If so, that is fantastic news! I'm hoping soon during my vacation that I can install Magic Lantern on the T4i/fiddle with it, and do a video test I've been requesting from other people (hahaha).

I'm not spider, but I ca confirm that you get continuous 1280x720 on a decent 45 mb/s card. I use Sandisk Extreme cards.

Hi, I got it, Video mode does not work direct viewfinder if photo mode.

Greetings.


Hola, me pasa lo mismo , en modo video no me funciona el visor directo , si en modo foto.

Saludos.

Hola,
Perdón si mi español es mal, estudio todavía...
No lo creo que es un problema de magic lantern. No es possible usar el visor directo en modo video, en general. Es porque en modo video, necesita usar el sensor consistente, por lo eso el espejo no funcionar, similar como si haces un photo.

-------------------------

My spanish might be too bad to understand it all. I am still learning it.
I don't think this is a problem of magic lantern. (if I understand what you say). You can't use the viewfinder in video mode, because it needs the sensor to record video, so the mirror does not work and therefore the viewfinder is useless in video mode. This is similar to the moment you take a photo, during this time you can't see through the viewfinder as well.

Huh? The video is not set to private 
I checked it on a different browser (without being logged in to youtube) and it works there too... Maybe server problems...

I found a bug on the newest build (18.07).

It occurs when using RAW Video:
As soon as I connect a monitor via HDMI the picture starts getting a big bar of red dots. It looks like focus peaking but has nothing to do with focus. (this also happens in normal live view with a monitor)
Also the Framing does not work at all when using a monitor. The indicator that shows where it films, is moved to the far left, and even if you change it back to normal using the digital dolly mode it does not go back to normal. It records a totally different area than the one that is showed on screen. No matter where you move the frame. (The recorded area is always in the middle, but moved a little bit to the right)

It works just fine without a monitor though.

If you need any more information just ask. (and maybe explain how I can get you these information as I am quiet new to ML  )