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To take a picture of a mountainside in the distance, with moonlight and without should i use M or P?
I get nothing on automatic.
What settings should i try to start with?
Do i change the ISO?

Canon Rebel T5i
Magic Lantern

First question:
I have a bear and a fox, not necessarily related, honking around my cabin at night. I want to take wildlife photos at night. Hopefully a moon is not necessary. If i use Magic Lantern's intervalometer, is there a setting that i could use so it is not blurry?

I could use a motion trigger. I found this one.
Micnova LC03C Lightning & Motion Sensor Trigger $90
But the reviews are not good.
I know that Magic Lantern has a motion detector but even at the most senstive setting, i think #1, i cannot get it to trigger without wearing a headlight. Even though the bear seems quite friendly, he (she?) refuses to wear a headlight.
Are there better solutions?

I know this is probably a common question but searching night and wildlife i havent found any threads.

Holy sh..

When doing research i discovered:
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/7002555087/lightning-photography-with-magic-lantern

I did not notice this before.

I do not suppose any settings will work for motion or nighttime wildlife tho?

T5i

So there is the Opteka LTX-80 
http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Lightning-Fireworks-Security-Wildlife/dp/B00CS3PHZK/ref=pd_cart_wl_2_p?ie=UTF8&colid=3395NA902P2PT&coliid=I113UN2D7UMJ5L&refRID=1WVPANWNJ6BS5VYC2RD9

But as you can see from the customer reviews & stars, it is a fizzled firework of dissatisfaction. I would cringe at paying much more than maybe $200.

Is there anything that anyone has found satisfactory?

DMiligan, thanks for the reply. To answer your question, the metadata is stored in the file's resource fork on a Mac. I can look at it with GraphicConverter, which is what use for sorting but it is not handy.

A designation in the file name would be much handier. Your answer "There is a function in the Canon firmware" does not indicate how to try this function. Are you saying it is in the standard menu?
On both T3i and T5i?

I assume that ML does not address this.

Right now it is set for MVI so all file names look like this: MVI_0289.MOV

Can i change this?
to something like MVA to give MVA_0289.MOV

How about with jpegs?
Currently it is saving: IMG   So files are named IMG_0243.jpg
Can i change it to IMA to get  IMA_0243.jpg

How about on the T5i?

The reason i am asking is i use two cameras, a T3i and T5i, and i want to clearly distinguish the products of the two cameras.

Before i post a question, i check both the ML documentation (which is slow because my internet connection is slow and the Canon manual PDFs, and i Google it, but i usually feel like i am asking a newbie questions that others have already answered.

Wouldn't it be better to have a separate forum section for each Canon model/ML version?

This thread is reeeeally long.

First, i should explain that i currently have both a T5i, which i am trying to get used to, and a T3i.

I cannot find the switch to show the sound meter during video recording in either one. I used to have the sound meter showing in the T3i but i some how turned it off so it does not show. Is it an ML feature or part of the standard Canon firmware?

2. ML for T3i has Audio as the first submenu tab, but there is no ML Audio tab for T5i?  Simply not that complete yet?

3. I don't see a headphone jack on either T3i nor T5i, but ML for T3i has headphone volume. How do you plug in a headphone to both?

Koollife: "Has anyone find solution for headphone monitoring? on T5i? ... this function is killing me, i need to monitor the sound that comes in through headphone. i'm working like a blind man during shooting i cannot monitor my incoming sound."

I solved the problem in a ridiculously expensive way with a JuicedLink Riggy-Assist RA333. I needed something i could set and let inexperienced students run, with little post-editing. But the cheaper and more traditional approach is capture the sound separately with a digital recorder, then sync post-editing.

I am having trouble installing ML on the 700D T5i with a Mac.
PCs apparently have neat installers but not Mac?

The please direct me to a help page or video.

Found the one in Spanish pero teno muy mal espaniol.
(Auto-correct is hell when you are trying to type bad Spanish.)

I did it the way i remember my T3i install.
- low level format of card on camera. Then stuck the card into the Mac.
- downloaded latest build from http://builds.magiclantern.fm/#/
-  Copied 700D_113.fir & autoexec.bin & ML folder to card
- started camera and clicked Trash but nada

Possible problem with boot flag?

Im not sure about this card. It is a Sandisk 32gig but it doesn't have a class# on it. I found it in my camera pack and don't even remember buying it. Card problem?

There is no link to ML for T5i 700D on the download page.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/downloads.html

Can you download it compiled?
Where is the page?

If no, do you need a PC with Windows to compile it?

First i apologize because i think my answer is in the thread somewhere, but i am on a super sloooow satellite connection and could not look at every page.

I am on the verge of buying a 700D/T5i, instead of a T4i, but i use ML A Lot. The thread starts last year in June with the recommendation that it is too unstable to depend on for daily shooting and a complied download for amateurs like me was not available. (I would have to learn how to compile it.)

Is it stable enough to depend on most of the time?

Is a link available for a compiled download for Canon 700D T5i ML?

I have about $2000 left in a video/photography grant. The most exotic applications, nighttime time-lapse or at least an intervalometer and such. So i was planning on buying 2 T5i's. Some of the parameters sound better like the ISO range goes higher. But reading posts on T5i Magic Lantern and it looks it is still a work in progress, so i am concerned.  So two questions:

1.  Considering ML stability on T5i, should i consider T4i's?

2. Is there a more expensive, more advanced Canon DSLR model that i could buy only one, and get many benefits?

If you have thots or suggested pages or threads, i'd appreciate them.

Thanks dmilligan. I did as you proscribed with out success.

kihlbahkt, thank you as well for your very thorough experimentation. You will notice my ML version is in my signature. Having read of problems solved in 2013 builds, i updated to the latest build, 2014-07-02. It looks very different than my previous 2012 version.

Tonight, with a little experimentation, it seemed to work only with the intervalometer, not pressing the shutter or a timed shutter. My remote battery is dead. I was not able to test multiple intervalometer takes. But i will post to this thread when i can.

Thanks for the information.
terry.

Ok, tried it in a dark room, and Bulb setting does not trip the shutter. ML is configured to Bulb Timer on for 1m.

Canon T3i's give no error codes, to my great disappointment. I made certain Auto Focus was turned off and stabilization is off. Set at 30 second exposures, everything works fine.

Troubleshooting suggestions or suggested reading?

Thanks, Rewind. I appreciate your response. I read the documentation on Bulb Timer and it is pretty thin. Is there better? Why is it called "Bulb" Timer?

I read all the posts on Bulb Timer i could find, and found that i probably need to update.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5714.0
I updated by simply over-writing the autobin file and ML directory. Hope thats ok, never updated before.

Hope this post helps other newbies in the future.

I have been doing time lapse night exposures of a mountain on moonless nights. I have been doing 30 second exposures at F3.5 aperture but the mountain is still dark. It seems like a longer exposure would bring out more stars and color.

Is it possible to use Magic Lantern to lengthen the exposure time.

Lens Canon EFS- 18-135mm

but an external recorder.

Yeh, i know thats what professionals do. And i think you are very correct that, for the money, this would improve the sound. But a high school classroom is a dynamic place full absolute amateurs. Most of the time this is not practical. Partly because a range of students would have to learn about it, but also because the best teaching is immediate feedback. Students learn more when we pull the card before the end of the class period and look at "rushes". They get immediate understanding of what works and what doesn't. I have no experience with putting sound and video together, and on my Macbook i am guessing it is not difficult, but 95% of what is shot is not "edited" but only quickly reviewed.

It sounds like, considering the situation, investing in a Rode mic with a decibel gain would be the best investment, despite having to contribute my on money. I wish teaching was like working in a company, and i could just send the bill to the billing department.

Datadogie: First question:   Is your card a class 10?

Its a Sandisk 32 gig class 10. Its generally not been a problem before but i am reminded that i think i saw this once before and figured out that it was a bad mounting of the card. I guess another idea is to pull the card and clean the contacts. I wonder if i can get something in the camera to clean the camera contacts? It would make me a little nervous.

I know there is a 30 minute limit on my T3i but for some reason it is sort of randomly breaking video into very short segments. Like 80 meg - 400 meg files. I attached a screen shot. I vaguely remember encountering this when i had a poorly mounted video card, and maybe a good cleaning would fix it, but i don't think thats the problem.
(Ok feeling stupid here because i don't know how to use [img] so here it is:

http://bayimg.com/cAFKDAAfH

I am a teacher doing a grant project shooting skits and puppet shows with a Canon Rebel T3i. The other thing to keep in mind is that in a school, a good camera gets used for a wide variety of applications, including stage performances. Sound is always a problem. Maybe you could point me to some good threads or forums or answer three questions:

I guess i am going to get a shotgun mike. I have a grant for the project so i can re-allocate money how i need. I am looking at an AmoVee SG-108 or a TAKSTAR SGC-598. Both are under $50 and have good Amazon ratings. A Rode or high end Technica seem too much.
So on the low end is there a difference between AmoVee or Takstar? and will i be happy with these?
Or would it be better to add my own personal money and invest in a Rode?

Secondly should i consider a preamp. I have seen Youtube videos that advocate using a preamp like a Juicedlink rm202 as well because the camera's AGC (Automatic Gain Control) is poor but they are really expensive.
So the question here is which is a better bang for my buck, an expensive mike or a preamp?

Finally, maybe i would be better of with lapel mikes, perhaps wireless, in most uses. But i dont know where to begin with those and my impression is that most professionals dont use those. Beyond a what distance are wireless mikes better?
What would a professional do in a classroom?