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Maybe try the latest Nightly if it still allows Modules, I have not checked myself since I compile my own. But if it does, try the latest Nightly and just add the Dual Iso module to it to see if it will still work.

The build in that Dual ISO zip is not up to date just the Dual ISO is, but I don't think much has been done to RAW since the build I sent along with the Dual ISO module, but you can try.

I downloaded the version I had (June 26th) The Version released with Dual ISO (Aug 8th) and the latest nightly as of today (Aug 21st) did a full exFat format and shot the same scene with the same settings and had all build get the around the exact same frames

The only difference I saw the Aug 8th build and the Aug 21st build was they removed the 1200 resolution...I remember reading it was removed because there were certain intervals of resolution that had better write speeds? still though I was quite happy rockin that 1200..guess I'll shoot a different resolution now...

It do help me formulate a few more questions. Where did you find that latest build? It looks like you got more frames with the old build? Have you tested the dual iso? I thought we were "supposed" to shoot with Global Draw off What is card warmup 1gb?

Thanks again!

I'm using this build currently
http://www.mediafire.com/download/kjj8ddkkfmge8vz/ML_550D_Dual_ISO_Aug_25_2013_Update.zip
it was on the first page at the bottom of the first post

Yeah I don't get as many frames with the latest build compared to the build I was using before
I messed with dual ISO very little, so far what im getting is that because it is using every other line the resolution is cut in half..not to big of a problem on the mark 3 @ 1920x1200 but a big problem on the t2i @ 1200x496

Yeah I heard turning off global draw can really help increase recorded frames when shooting in raw but im only find the difference to be 20-30 frames at the most..id rather be able to monitor my levels and histogram while shooting than have 30 more frames...

I guess in the latest build they added some kind of card warm up feature with the raw video, not sure how much it helps if any but on start up your camera writes a file to the sd card and its supposed to increase read/write speeds for shooting raw

I watched it again. Loving those desert shots! Have you tried shooting 960x540, 16x9, 23.97? I'm thinking you have and you just like the look of 1200x496? I'm inquiring because I have a music video shoot tomorrow. The plan is to use the Panasonic LA 7200 anamorphic adapter with a Cosina 28mm lens. You got me thinking about shooting it 1200x496 instead of 960x540. I will go do some test shots...

I am a HUGE fan of anamorphic aspect ratio, partly because how we are all so use to 16:9 and 16:10 because of web outlets

Testing out settings because you mentioned it
Since I've shot this video I updated my magic lantern to the latest build with dual ISO

23.976 Global Draw with histogram, waveform, crop overlay
I use to be able to only do 2.42:1 1200x496 continuously for ~510 frames

but with the latest build I am getting

23.976 Global Draw with histogram, waveform, crop overlay, card warmup 1GB
2.42:1 - 1200x496 - 489 Frames
2.39:1 - 1200x502 - 445 Frames
2.35:1 - 1200x510 - 410 Frames
2.20:1 - 1200x546 - 291 Frames

16:9 - 960x540 - Continuous

hope this helps

Nice video Yomo! Can you post the specs, workflow and if you resized the image? I thought dual iso only works in photo mode with the T2i.

Of Course!

T2i - 50mm 1.4 - 24mm 1.5 - 70-200 2.8
SanDisk Extreme 45MB/s 32GB

Shot cropped @ 1200x496
Converted with Raw2Dng
Processed curves and color in bridge
Exported as JPEG @ 1920x794
Imported into premiere as sequence
Video limiter, Luma Correcter
Exported as H.264 @1920x794 5MB bitrate

I havent read too much on the dual iso yet for t2i, i hope its all ready for use :/

Here is a video I shot out around my house testing out the raw video on the T2i, The dynamic range is awesome but the crop factor is a real pain to deal with...Hope more progress is made on the buffer situation to allow for larger resolutions, but still this mod is amazing a and really produces amazing visuals

Once I figure out how to get the dual ISO working on my T2i I'll make a video of that as well 

Shot with ML RAW for an feature film, mark3 body and processed. What you guys think?

Personally I am 110% not a fan of the HDR look
The way I see it whats the point of using a 5D Mark III with RAW video if you are not going to utilize the dynamic range?

the blown out sky and halo make it look like h.264 shot in Standard, not exposed for the sky, and with detail turned up
personally
but I understand it is an artistic choice to tell your story in such a..stylized way

Night time or day time?
From the sidelines? Or will you be right on the field during practice?

If I were you id get a nice zoom lens so you could really get in close to the action
A nice tripod to lock the camera down
Maybe a viewfinder
Maybe a shoulder rig
and a variable nd filter

If you are shooting 720 60p remember the 180 degree shutter rule for video
(shutter speed = 2x fps)

I would say try
720 60p
Shutter 1/120
ISO 160
f/5.6
Variable nd

1/120 because of 180 degree rule
ISO 160 because its the lowest ISO with the least noise for video
f/5.6 because typically 5.6-8 are the sharpest points..but decide your depth here
Variable nd because with the 180 degree shutter rule you cant change your shutter, so you use an nd

If its too dark raise your ISO
If its too bright close your aperture or use an nd filter

Arent you supposed to use firmware 1.1.3?

Btw I tried changing it to "Always ON" and now autoETTR seems to give me better results :] ^^

@Audionut
man you're really blowing my mind with all this ISO stuff, that was a decent rabbit hole of information

if you don't mind I think I understand:
1. lower ISO = higher SNR (good), more dynamic range (good), more banding (bad)
2. higher ISO = lower SNR (bad), less dynamic range (bad), less banding (good)

3. increasing exposure in post tends to lead to more noise in shadows (plus banding if lower ISO)
4. ideal to ETTR and decrease exposure in post

4. base ISO's have less noise due to no digital manipulation
5. intermediate ISO's have more noise due to digital manipulation

6. 160 ISO Increments (160,320,640...) have lower dynamic range compared to their base ISO counterpart
7. 125 ISO Increments (125,250,500...) have more noise compared to their base ISO counterpart

8. shooting a scene @ ISO 100 and increasing exposure in post is the same as shooting ISO 125
9. shooting a scene @ ISO 200 and decreasing exposure in post is the same as shooting ISO 160
but its always better to shoot brighter and decrease rather than shoot darker and increase

but how does this all translate for video?
is base ISO strictly better for RAW or does it also apply to h.264?

I was always told that for video 160 ISO increments (160,320,640...) had the lowest noise and were the best ISO's to use
but now I know they actually decrease the overall dynamic range? and are less ideal over the base ISO?

my life is a lie! 

Wouldn't it be best to set the camera for full ISO increments then?
and suddenly the T2i only having full ISO increments natively doesn't seem so bad?

Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I feel like my histogram readings are always way off..like..WAY off

I usually expose most of my well lit scenes by pushing the exposure as high as it can go without clipping the highlights but this doesn't always seem to have consistent results

for example:
there was a pretty mean fire north of LA that went right past my house yesterday and I busted out the cameras to take some shots
testing out my new viewfinder I shot some stills using the onscreen histogram
the histogram was saying that i could really push the exposure before clipping but I could tell I was clipping..sure enough when I got the footage on the computer the highlights were clipped

and then I noticed that the histogram wasn't analyzing the entire scene but just the top half of the screen
this was on the T2i with the latest RAW test build as of yesterday

the other time this happened was on a shoot with he 5D Mark 3, getting proper exposure I was looking at the histogram to see how badly a window in the background was clipping, as the sun went down the lighting changed so I bumped up the ISO to notice a weird thing happen..as I went up in ISO the window stopped clipping...

ie
160 clip
200 no clip
250 no clip
320 clip

i believe that was the 5d3 may 24th raw build


I use manual lenses and tried with exposure override on and off and switching raw histogram on and off but I just cant help but feel like im doing something wrong 

That works awesome thank you!

Aside from the magenta cast problem and the intense artifacts in the t2i build the silent picture feature is awesome..able to do time lapses without adding actuations

but I was wondering if there was any way to use Silent Picture mode with a long exposure
it seems to only work at like 1/30ish regardless of how long the shutter is set to

I understand that there is a limitation in the feature because it is just pulling information from the sensor but if someone could fill me in that would be nice   

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5533.0

[100]

Not entirely sure I understand the question, it doesn't really sound like a magic lantern thing

Do you have your camera set to do manual exposure in video mode?
I'm assuming you have a good understanding of manual settings?

I recommend doing a test with a candle next to an object
and using a fast lens like a f/1.4-f/1.8
http://amzn.com/B00007E7JU
keeping in mind also the bonfire will be much brighter and you might not even have to shoot that wide open..but the more wide open the f/stop the lower the ISO, the lower the ISO the lower the noise(grain)


I would try:
1080 24p
1/50 shutter (~180 degree shutter rule, google it if needed)
f/1.4 (or lowest possible)
ISO as low as possible
Turn auto lighting optimizer to disable

If its too dark raise the ISO
if its too bright close down the f/stop
if its too shallow close down the f/stop and raise the ISO
etc.

Also keep in mind that every third ISO has the best noise
100 125 160 200 250 320 400 500 640 800 1000 1250 1600 2000 2500 3200 4000 5000 6400

hope this helps, happy shooting

[Lantern]

Cinema Lantern
I would support it

My friends and colleagues keep talking down the RAW video feature to the point where I haven't been too interested in testing it out myself
"Too impractical..Ridiculous file sizes..work flow is too long..not stable..get a real job..."

After shooting a few tests I think they should all go suck a lemon, the play room with these files is totally awesome
Definitely going to try more of this!

If I'm not mistaken the higher pitched sound is better

While on a hike with my light weight T2i body I was taking pictures and then decided to move further up the mountain, I slipped and banged the camera body against a rock pretty good..no scratches but I noticed immediately that the shutter had this low pitch sound and it has been that way ever since

I posted this in the 5d2 RAW thread but I felt this also applied to any of the cameras

after hearing about the new raw feature I was trying to find a cool practical use for it, and the big thing that came to mind was time lapses without adding shutter actuations

This test took 1 hour out behind my house, pretty dark aside from the full moon blasting the scene
5D Mark 2 May 20th build
640 ISO
T/1.5
FPS Override 0.178
RAW Video 1880x1250

I had to really adjust the color in post because the RAW kicked the magenta up a lot
Also had artifacts at the bottom of the frame

http://i.imgur.com/G1N6ya8.jpg

and there was this weird problem where every other frame was the first frame...
so instead of capturing 323 I actually captured 162

162 frame time lapse without adding any actuations

Trying to find a practical use for the RAW video feature, The one that really pops out to me is the ability to do time lapses without having to add any shutter actuations to the camera

This test took 1 hour out behind my house, pretty dark aside from the full moon blasting the scene
5D Mark 2 May 20th build
640 ISO
T/1.5
FPS Override 0.178
RAW Video 1880x1250

I had to really adjust the color in post because the RAW kicked the magenta up a lot
Also had artifacts at the bottom of the frame

http://i.imgur.com/G1N6ya8.jpg

and there was this weird problem where every other frame was the first frame...
so instead of capturing 323 I actually captured 162

So I did a 162 frame time lapse without ever taking a picture ;]

This existed??

http://www.geekstuff4u.com/four-slot-microsdhc-to-cf-converter.html?___store=en&___store=en#.UZ-Z6JywV7w

Personnaly, I use 2.3x bitrate with a komputerbay 64Gb 600x wich is a bloody shit (benching only à write 22 mb/s). So maybe with a good CF, the 3x codec bitrate can be a real good alternative for the Mk2

Waiting for a real good 128Gb or 256GB CF to buy.

So any comment about write speed and format system files on CF (Perso, I have seen some huge difference between cluster size on the komputerbay, but as I can't format on FAT32 in windows (don't know why, I can only NTFS or exFAT, and sadly, the mk2 do not recognize the card in exFAT)

With my mark 2 I can't manage a 3.0x bitrate speed even with my Komputer Bay 1000x, and if I'm not mistaken it was my card that topped the benchmark chart

Windows cannot format FAT32 past 32GB natively, for this I used a program called FAT32Formatter.exe, but regardless I never noticed any speed increases with any chunk allocations or partition alignment/offset

Wanted to see how differently cards performed on different cameras
The cards were setup to have default formatting
by default I mean I took the card, formatted it in the camera, loaded magic lantern onto the card, and then ran the benchmark..no tricks


5D Mark 2 - Komputer Bay 64 GB 1000x - DEFAULT - +1Hour
http://pastebin.com/bSHZnmC8

5D Mark 3 - Amazon Basics 32 GB Class 10 - DEFAULT - +1Hour
http://pastebin.com/k1pmqURu

550D Amazon Basics 32 GB Class 10 - DEFAULT - +1Hour
http://pastebin.com/90D0rbFD

For some reason it seemed like the 5D Mark 3 was having slower speeds with the SD vs the 550D

Exactly! I feel like something is just not right. Global draw is off too, not like that would make such a huge difference. I feel like I'm missing something, but I know I'm not. I'm reformatting my CF card now to see if that makes any difference.

I'm seeing some stuff about aligning partitions on CF cards in this thread: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5471.75

But I'm not sure exactly what they're doing because they don't really mention it in depth.

Honestly I wouldn't worry about
I just recorded the same thing on the 5D Mark 2
1880x720 24p 306 frames

default format
1024 align
4096 align

all of them were still 306 frames
no increase in performance

I tried the May 19 build on my 5D Mark II, and I can only get 155-185 frames at 1280x720 @ 24fps on a Transcend 400x 32GB card, even with Hack3d mode.

I know the card isn't the best, but it should only need 36.9MB/s for these settings, and my card benchmarks around 45-55MB/s. I feel like I'm getting way less frames than I should, anyone have any other ideas?

5D Mark 2 - May 19 build - Transcend 32GB 400x
1280x720 24p - no skip
1880x720 24p - 306 frames before skip

global draw off
no sound

This is my fastest benchmark with this card

64GB

May 19th Build
1928x1152 24p
Global Draw On
Sound Recording seperate

Buffer barely even moves