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Hi to all !
First are you aware if a speed booster will be made for EOS M ?
http://www.canonwatch.com/is-metabones-working-on-a-speedbooster-for-eos-m/
Or lens turbo from China ?

I was just thinking about this possibility.. I'm glad I see a link to the video. It's surely a prototype for EOS-M.. I feel like when the next round of EOS-M cameras are released and the system becomes more developed Metabones will officially announce this, for sure.

Given the fact that you need to use an adapter for EF lenses anyway this makes so much sense and turns your EOS-M back into an (almost) full camera..+ one f stop brighter..

With RAW + a speedbooster, the EOS-M could be a little powerhouse for video..

My steps with EOS-M so far
1. Follow steps in other posts to get it ML to work with Firmware 2.02 (if that's what you have)
2. Boot camera, load ML, load modules (set to autoload), set to RAW, resolution, etc., in ML.
3. Press MENU, take some RAW video.  I wouldn't shoot a lot your first try. 
4. Copy RAW file over to computer
5. Load PinkDotRemover (THANK YOU AUTHOR OF THAT).  You'll need Java installed.
6. Make a copy of your RAW file if important (PinkDotRemover) modifies original.
7. Drag copy or original to PinkDotRemove, pick camera, and run.  NOTE: You won't see a status message, but it should finish in a minute or two. It will say so.
8. Open RAWanizer, select RAW file
9.  Pick Cineform and have it create video output

That's my easy workflow at moment.   I use that for 50D too (except for PinkDotRemover, which isn't necessary for that camera).

Sorry but converting the RAW file direct to Cineform is missing the most critical point of color correcting directly from the RAW source....  This is not the correct way.

Shooting at 1280 x 720 25fps what would be the max card speed needed by EOS-M? I think many EOS-M users would be happy with 1280x720P if that's at all possible. If 20 MB/s is the fastest the EOS-M is capable of what is max video resolution we can get from that?

See my last post for resolutions but at 24fps I'm getting 38mb/s on a sandisk extreme pro card (rated for 90mb/s)

ML RAW Rec on 2.02.. quick on the run findings

1728x522 - continuous
1728x564 - 2000+ frames (ends unexpectedly though and once dumped out of ML.. best to use mode that's continuous for stability)

Nice but very unstable though, lots of battery pulls.. half shutter press to focus during raw freezes camera.. as do so many other things. If you use it in movie mode you can focus with screen presses

(sandisk 32gb extreme pro card)

Hello all,

I'm completely new to ML and was thinking of getting a EOS M camera. The main thing I want it for is to shoot 1080p video with an external mic. The only feature I need that is different than the stock firmware is to get rid of the 29 minute recording limit (I need to record around 1 hr). Would ML get rid of this? Is it pretty stable for the EOS M? Thanks so much!

Josh

I use ML to record long periods but via the HDMI output.. ML gives me a clean output and stay on forever, then I use a HDMI recorder with a Hard Drive.. (currently Atomos Ninja) to record 7-8 hour events..  It effective but more parts and cost than a single device.

Its a little weird that ML took off the ability to record longer than 30 minutes direct to card. There has to be an untold reason.. (Although this still wouldn't work for me as SD card sizes would be far too limiting for multi hour events)

OK.. this is the second time I have posted and figured it out before someone has had a chance to respond.. (both time though I was several days trying to figure it out)..

I was looking in the ML menu ... The HDMI out though appears to cycle thru 16:9 and 4:3 as I hit the display button on the top left..

OK this is solved.. But the issue of the recorder crashing and then corrupting files is the next hurdle.. Maybe I need a new post to solve it..?

I use a Canon T2i to record to a Ninja recorder via the HDMI (clear overlays.. keep recorder on forever.. all that good stuff).. I used to have the image full frame on the Ninja.. but suddenly has side black bars (with a shrunk image).. What would have caused this? Where in the menus can I possibly change this?

(No black side bars if I'm just looking at the t2i lcd and disconnect the HDMI)

I have also been having instability issues since this happened.... Not sure if its a related issue or not.. Right now I'm just trying to start with the black bar issue..

My once solid recorder has gone to s**t

Can anyone help..?

You have LED confirmation

Ah yes..nice

Or, you can set "clear screen" to "half-shutter", so it will be even more obvious.

... oh ya I didn't see that option.. I love that! 2.3 FTW!

Well and I have solved my own issue.. Right after I posted (and after 2 weeks of trying to figure it out) the bubble in my head went off and I did some testing with the screens NOT cleared so I could see what I was doing.. I didn't realize that the sticky half shutter was not automatic.. (and as A1ex said) you have to press the half shutter once to activate... Its tricky though because when you do it with clear screens (to record HDMI) you don't really have confirmation of the HS...... but I will get used to it.. I just make it the last thing I press to get out of the menu window..

I'm currently testing and at 45 minutes the camera is still on.. so it looks its all good..

So I have been using magic lantern for a while as a solution to do long records to my Atomos Ninja.. In the last version of magic lantern it worked well being able to clear the screens.. and also stay on forever via the half button press every 1 second..

Now I have installed magic lantern 2.3 and I'm having a tough time getting the recorder to stay on.. I figured out the first leap of clearing screens with in the new reordered menus (Display>>Clear Overlays>>Always)... however, I have yet to figure out the proper way to keep the camera on forever.. I thought (Prefs>>Misc Key Settings...>>Sticky Half Shutter>>ON) was the proper setting.. but this is still turning off after 30 minutes..

I really like the workflow in the new 2.3 to set up focus and exposure.. I'd really like to be able to stick to this version vs downgrade to the last (not even sure where I'd find it).. .

Can anyone help on this?