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For 6D, currently use 1%'s Tragic Lantern fork until it's ported to the main ml trunk. Also be aware of the fact that currently a lot of features don't work on 6D , and isn't stable and is very likely to crash on you from time to time.

Yes, this is correct, with newer m builds a lot of features were moved to modules and aren't in the main autoexec.bin anymore. Be sure to enable the modules you want after installing.

So, finally I have managed to run nightly build on 600D. Just have replaced files, no other action.
2013Oct01.600D102 and 2013Sep30.600D102 - camera did not boot, 2013Sep28.600D102 - success!

Thanks!

Hi, I have 600D 1.02 + ML2.3 for a long time operating fine.
I wanted to give a try to last nightly build of today 2013-10-01 03:00:09 +0200.
Downloaded, etracted, copied to SD, but the camera does not boot. SD LED blinks in cycles 3x long + 3x short blinks (right after I close the SD door, even before power on).
autoexec.bin in nightly is 444KB, opposed to v.2.3 stable 1637KB. Is this correct? How to make nightly build running?
Thanks in advance!

Michal Leder

why game in  time lapse and procesing  900 shots ? when u can all do done by one Shot..

Hi Betelgeuza, to get an answer why, get back to first post, I finally embedded video correctly :-D

Hi SDX, thanks for the comment. I must have had the moon in the frame that night. Unfortunately I do not have enough time for night shots and conditions were as they were. In other directions I had ugly lights of the big city (20km) or the non-composing villages. I am waiting for moonless nights and some better weather conditions (that night it was -11 C).

> And for the comet-like thing:
This is the moon itself.

> you can automatize the process in PS
Thanks for that tutorial - I will study it soon! My process was half automatic - I must have had name and save each file after the PS action.

Betelgeuza,

1. Stars look like comets because while stacking in PS in "lighten" mode I added darkening by some factor at each step. This is a intended effect.
2. What you think looks like panstarr comet is a new moon
3. I have made the timelapse sequence to make the small video (I am hoping to be a part of bigger project) - this was my primary aim. Click the image to be redirected to my blog page where the mentionev video is embedded.

Think it over! ;-) Hint: Northern and southern hemisphere catched in the frame[...]

That's it! Thanks Walter!

Hi, last weekend thanks to good weather conditions I have made a timelapse (naturally using ML) of the starry sky. This time I have tried smearing the star trails in post. Visit my fotoblog (click the image) to check the result http://lederfotoblog.blogspot.com/2013/03/star-trails-first-attempt.html

Admin, plz, move it back to videos, as this was about the video from the very begenning. Sorry, that it was not clear then, but I had difficulties on embedding Vimeo video. Thank you!

Hi Travis, sorry for replying a bit late.
The slider is built on standard industry Alu profiles (40x40mm) with 8mm gutter.
Power is delivered by a DC motor (not step-motor) continuously. A small and simple gearbox is built in.
Power is transmitted by a 6mm screw, nothing precise, just a threaded industry stick. It all appeared to be very smooth in motion.
The rest of parts is custom built. Check out m entry blog dedicated to this device, where you can find most of the technical details.
Overall cost was approx. 300-400$.

http://lederfotoblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/motorized-timelapse-slider-building-and.html

Thanks guys. Keep in mind that in many shots it would not be possible with bulky DSLR like our Canons are.

Danke, but I hope that there is more in the video than 02:16...

Actually I can't see much issue with noise here (I watched in 1080).
Also the exposure for me is OK, it would be weird if you expose night shots with no compensation, they should be approx. -1 EV.
The same as snow daylight shots should be overexposed - you would not like snow or darkness to be grey, wouldn't you?
The problem with these shots IMo is that some of them are out of focus completely. ML focus peak feature would help here much.

I am a Canon user and also a ML user for a year or so. But recently I have purchased Sony RX-100 as a completion of my Canon set, both for photo and video. Here is a small clip I have shot with RX100 exclusively.

Check this out from the level of my blog entry on the topic of this little camera (still don't know how to embed Vimeo...).



Thanks for watching!

Hi, here is my last video shot when I was stuck at home on a gray, snowy day.
Shot entirely on EOS 600D ML 2.3.



Thanks for watching!

Honestly, I am not getting the purpose of the mass blurring. Shallow DOF - OK, by why everything out of focus?

Hey,

Took these shots yesterday, 1.5 hours of footage (1 shot every 10 seconds) but still trying to figure out the best bulb ramping setting for sunsets? How exactly do the settings work? Notice all the exposure jumps, how can I set it up to make less or run smoother? After using LR Timelapse it done a pretty good job of smoothing it out in poist, but what's the best practice for getting the shoot right?





Final time-lapse:
https://vimeo.com/52183374

Hi nchant,

in fact I cant see much flicker here. Was the video modifies after you posted?
IMO exposures here are consistent here frame to frame.
What I personally do not like here is too fast clouds movement. Naturally final effect depends on wind speed, current focus lenght used etc. however here it is too fast.

Hi Shaisgs, maybe you used option "Optimize for Low light". If so, you should use "Optimize for exact FPS".

Recently we have foggy nights here in Łódź, Poland. On Thursday I took my car in the evening and played some loud music inside, sucked the camera in and outside. Afterwards I used one of the tracks in the video.
A lot of Magic Lantern v2.3 features has been used: FPS override for timelapse: 0,5-2fps, custom WB settings (mainly 2000K WB), focus peak and others. Thank you very much ML Team!



FPS override used for timelapse makes really great job: out of camera material is "tiny" in size and can be edited very quickly in video software timeline.

[...] Do you think it's too much? do you suggest to use less time between shots?

Of course it is up to you. However:
- clouds in the mountains usually move fast, so you need short intervals;
- having them moving slower in TL give a feel of majesty - like mountains are.

I am wondering what is the interval in this shot? In mountain clouds I would use 1 or 2 seconds. Here it seems to be much longer, like 3-5 sec.

--
Best regards
Michal

The first of many attempts,

Hi, this is OK. Tell me what shutter speed was used? I guess no longer than 2-8 sec. In case of moderate wide angle (18mm) you can easily use 30sec to get more light and stars will not be blurred much and you will get much more details and stars. It is also good to move more far from city lights.

--
Best regards
Michal

Hi. I wanted drops to be there. In fact they are on the Cokin filter. Anyway everything was wet (it rained additionally).
Equippment is EOS 600D + Sigma 10-20 mounted on custom-built motorized slider via super clamp and Manfrotto magic arm.

Hi, I have recently made some shots for timelapse movie (still in progress) using ML v2.3 FPS override feature + "low light" mode to record flowing water. I find FPS override with speeds of 3.0 - 0.2 fps very useful for not very much demanding timelapse, where fast workflow is necessary. The video result + some remarks are on my fotoblog page and one of video shots is also embedded here.

http://lederfotoblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/flowing-water-magic-lantern-v23.html

Thanks for watching!

Michal Leder