Topics

More a question of the actual canon firmware and how it writes its images, I guess irrespective of Magic Lantern.

Does the original file name of the jpeg, ie IMG_9876.JPG, get stored somewhere in the exif data?
It stores all the picture style and sharpness and what not for the sake of the camera reading that is the image number given by the camera stored anywhere in there?

Thanks.

(very long time since I've posted here, still a big user of ML though)

A question for anybody who has the correct answer;

When I see behind the scenes stuff for movies, they have their 16:9 monitor with multiple crop marks, but for the "cinema wide" crop mark (greater than 2:1 (the 2.39:1 or what not)) it is never positioned at the centre vertically...
Why?

Is there a way I can have the picture save on the camera into two different picture styles?
And in particular; two custom picture styles?
(inb4 "just use raw")

edit & explanation:
I want to take the photo in jpeg, and instead of it saving one photo in "neutral" or what not,
I want it to process and save 2 jpegs of the same picture, one in neutral and one in say standard (or custom picture profile).

Just came across this! Been wanting something like this for a long time.
(I have not yet tried it myself)

https://github.com/mifi/lossless-cut
"Save space by quickly and losslessly trimming video and audio files"

This is not an advertisement, I just found it and thought I definitely need to share.
It runs off ffmpeg, and I was actually unaware ffmpeg had such a cutting capability.

Anyway, hopefully this means no more re-encoding a lot of videos for me.

I have a 24mm Soligor 2.8 FD mount. Everything works on it but I can't turn the focus to infinity, it jams at 0.7m, but can be turned the other way all the way to 1:4 macro.
I can't seem to figure out what is stopping it from turning any further, does anybody have any ideas or advice?

I was super keen to get the 10 to 18mm EF-s lens until I just found out that the focus ring on it isn't mechanical.
It's one of those ones that spin forever which I assume has to communicate with the camera to communicate back to the lens.
Are they doing this with kit lenses for ef-s cameras as well nowadays?

I'd like to have a few options for this but depending which is available. I'll list the various here:
1) loud sound triggers autofocus (in live view with face detection), once autofocus completes there is timer delay til it takes a photo
2) loud sound triggers autofocus (in live view with face detection), next loud sound triggers a photo (also with a timer delay that can be specified)
3) loud sound triggers autofocus in video mode with face detection and then starts recording once focus is achieved, if it doesnt find focus another loud sound either triggers recording or another attempt at autofocus

any help?

Excuse my ignorance as I didn't follow from the beginning of some of these topics and I'm a little confused.
When it comes to RAW video I'm seeing 10bit 12bit 14bit discussion, 3x3 crop mode discussion, 2K 3K 4K discussion, and the compressed format RAW discussion, also not sure what the two in two out discussion is.
What is compatible with what?
Also what cameras are these compatible with?
I'm looking to port it to 550D.

Also, in terms of crop mode, I know there was a crop mode unlocked for MP4 video so it would take the centre of the picture, my question at the time was does this mean that 1080p can be shot 1080p without it being upscaled, which the answer was no, it was still the same resolution upscaled just cropped in (getting rid of some moire and aliasing problems in a sense.)

Side question, where do I find the atdg module, do I have to compile it myself?
I know there was once talks of a module repository...

I know the ML IRC is used quite a bit but Discord seems to be the place things are moving to.
There are other IRC rooms that are completely dead yet their Discord is quite lively in text chat.
Plus there's been times I've had to set up temp voice chats online to try to guide people through things.

I shot a friend of mine doing some live music and as usual ML the firmware that never leaves my camera aided quite a bit.
Shot on a 550D with the 50mm 1.8, plus a rode stereo video mic for audio.
I shot on the 1.8 because it was quite dark and I wanted to keep my ISO as low as possible.
I also shot at 24p (23.9 whatever) in an attempt to get longer exposure times to keep the ISO low.
As I was running around a bit I decided to keep the ISO on automatic to save me some set up time,
this worked out fine, the brightness barely fluctuates.
I used ML to aide in white balancing, which was basically impossible as there was a big orange light as the spotlight as the venue is going under some change.
I also used ML for focus peaking, which there did end up some out of focus shots as I used extra test shots which I was still focusing in.
Then I also used ML for the general extra settings, no audio auto gain for the external mic, zero sharpness, a couple of other settings.
I edited this in cinelerra and did some heavy colour grading as the footage just looked orange, so I dipped the shadows into the green.

The main intention was to record that first song, but I got footage of this nice harmonica solo so I blended it together with another shot and quite like it.

Does anybody have any ideas for sending a selected image from my camera (550D in this case) to my android phone?

I can think of some sort of external rig using a small computer and bluetooth, I'd have to power it with something and probably have it have its own interface to be able to select which image I want to send. Although I have seen things set up through USB that can control options in the camera, and in turn the options in the camera can control the USB, so maybe a small script of module could be written to control the computer, an extra send button or the like.

Anybody have any other ideas? Less is more although if you have some elaborate rube goldberg like electronic set up do share.

Is there anything known about the two other images contained in the CR2/TIFF files? (Obviously not about their existence).
In the sense that, there is the 160x120 jpeg followed by the bigger RGB image that has no white balance applied, all this before the actual RAW image.
Is anything known about how they are made? Is one able to just get a stream of either of these images either with or without moving the shutter?

Hoping some people can help me out with some raw images.
I need raw straight out of the camera and if you can follow these requirements:
- leave the lens cap on
- ML turned off (or its features switched off)
- shoot in M mode
- have a lens on (any lens)
- iso 200
- shutter 1/100
- aperture 4.0
- colour neutral
- WB sun
- RAW image capture
These don't matter it's just so I can have consistent info in the raw files between the cameras.
Yes it is meant to be a black image.

If you can upload them to a dropbox or google drive and I'll download it.
I'll list some cameras here, then I'll write next to the camera model who uploaded it to show that it has been done and also to show that I have downloaded the file if you then want to remove it.
If the camera is not on the list you can still take the photo and say which one it is, I'm still interested in collecting it.
In the file name, if you can change it to the camera model .CR2 (or whatever extension is on it).

5D mkIII	budafilms
5D mkII	Ilia3101
7D	Danne & DeafEyeJedi & Ottoga
6D	Sapporo
70D	DeafEyeJedi
60D	larrycafe
50D	halbmoki
700D	dfort
650D	Walter Schulz
600D	escho
550D	ItsMeLenny (I own this camera)
500D	Danne
100D	canneloni
1200D	122czx
1100D	Danne
EOSM	dfort

If it's already up here I don't particularly need a second one, but thankyou for helping.

Thanks for your help.

Wondering if the "Show unread posts since last visit." and "Show new replies to your posts." can be mashed into one, with new replies to posts above the unread posts under a different heading, so they're separated but just on the same page.

Just a little something interesting. I believe this is just a concept.
One of the features is essentially the dual ISO

"FlexISP: A Flexible Camera Image Processing Framework"
https://vimeo.com/109777932


This is done by the same people who did "High-Quality Computational Imaging Through Simple Lenses" (posted here before)
http://www.cs.ubc.ca/labs/imager/tr/2013/SimpleLensImaging/
Which seems to also be part of this FlexISP concept.

http://petapixel.com/2015/08/18/mit-created-a-camera-that-will-never-overexpose-a-photograph/#more-176916

This is a new camera that will allegedly never over expose a photograph.
It works like water raining into a cup
But then the water auto levels because of the fluidity of rain and man combined.

I remember using this luma curve kind of thing in ML where it would print out the curve of the light over exposure stops.
It would stop itself down using the shutter speed and print out a green curve on a graph to show how many stops the camera gets.
I think when I used it it was in the don't click me button at the time. It was back when ML iso was introduced, however I still see the graphs used by some of the devs.

[isn't]

This isn't a question of "how do I put ML on a completely unrelated camera?"

Back-story:
My mum had a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ20, which she spent a bit of money on at the time and was actually quite a good camera (despite the fact that the lense would suck dust into itself which would land on the sensor). She dropped it a few too many times which eventually broke the mechanics of the (leica) lens. On me opening it up I only broke the lens more (but it was already broken beyond repair, I also managed to scratch an element). She now bought a later model which unfortunately takes awful images compared to this one, and they also replaced the switches for buttons which means it always gets bumped and turned on.

Actual question:
Now that I've removed the lens completely, when I switch the camera on it shows the (blurry) image that the sensor picks up for a couple of seconds before the camera disables itself (displaying a white screen with a message) to say that there is a problem with the lens.
I would like to hack this so that I can use the camera without a the but I am unsure as to where I begin. Any help would be appreciated.

Silly walking begins at 0:37

On a hot Australian day. Featured in this video is Bryan Pike, sweating in his best John Cleese attire. (Just to note; this video is on his youtube channel).

Being dragged into town on such a day, I shot this video on my 550D. I actually grabbed the latest nightly without even testing and it worked absolutely fine.
I went against my usual way of shooting and went complete auto WB and exposure, this was due to the sporadic lighting and location (and knowing this wasn't going to be used for anything professional).
I switched between two lenses, one being the 18 to 55 and the other being the 55 to 250.
Whilst I was mostly on automatic, ML was still put to good use. AGC turned off for recording with a rode stereo mic, unfortunately Bryan (who edited the video) replaced all sound with music
I had histograms on to make sure things weren't too under or over exposed, and focus peaking on as I still had to pull focus, which resulted in lots of blurry shots.
Little things that bug me are the fact that some practice shots were used, hence the shakiness, it's like I'm trying to balance the camera on my head while star jumping.
Also, the video was shot at 50fps, however either youtube or whatever program was used to edit capped it to 25 (and 30fps at 720p... very bizarre), this makes the footage look far more shaky than it was (at least I'm claiming so).

But anyway. Bryan's skills in silly walking are brilliant and hilarious none the less. Enjoy!

[Canon EOS 550D/Rebel T2i/Kiss X4]

Magic Lantern Installation & Updating Guide Canon EOS 550D/Rebel T2i/Kiss X4 1.0.9

This tutorial is based off my memory of the first time I installed ML (and how I put ML on any new card).
The original tutorial I followed can be found here: http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install



Quick Links
What's Hot!
Before We Begin
Updating Canons Firmware
The First Install
The Second Install
Updating Magic Lantern
Uninstalling Magic Lantern
FAQs
How to Contribute
Credits



Warning! Magic Lantern is not approved nor endorsed by Canon in any way, and using it will probably void your warranty. We are not responsible for any damages to your camera.

--Quick-Links

   
• Canon Firmware: Official_Canon_550D_1.0.9_firmware
• Download page: magiclantern.fm/downloads.html
• Stable release: magiclantern-v2.3.550D.60D.600D.50D.500D.5D2.zip
• Nightly builds: builds.magiclantern.fm/550D-109.html
• EOScard: chdk.wikia.com/wiki/EOScard
• Make bootable: bitbucket.org(magic-lantern) path=/Magic Lantern/contrib/make-bootable/ make_bootable.sh (shell version), make_bootable.py (python version)/li]
  

--What's HOT!

• Linux on your DSLR
• freeDOS on your DSLR
• Lua Scripting
• Raw Video Recording
• Dual ISO
• Auto ETTR
• Bars Facelift
• Proportional Fonts
• Config Presets
• ISO Investigation
• Screenshots
• New memory backend
• Raw silent pictures
• Full-resolution silent pictures
• Eeko
• 10bit and 12bit Raw video

--Before We Begin (Important Notes)

Please read!! (If you don't read this and you come back later saying your camera won't turn on, then ...)

   
• Make sure your battery is fully charged.
• You will need a SD card reader. (ML can not be copied onto the card via plugging it in through the USB port)
• You will need a standard SD card, SD / SDHC / SDXC. (Don't use an EyeFi card or similar)
• Your 550D needs to be running Canon firmware 1.0.9. (instructions below)
• Never put a card into your camera that has the bootable flag on without autoexec.bin on the card. (this will be explained below)
• ML does not install onto your camera, it runs off your card and is loaded every time you turn your camera on.
• The stable release is long outdated. (we will still be using it to install ML though, but updating after)
• The stable release can still be used however it has no new features. (so it will not have raw recording and the features that you probably want)

--Updating Canons Firmware

If your 550Ds firmware version is not 1.0.9 you will need to update it (this has nothing to do with the Magic Lantern firmware version, this is the Canon firmware).

Checking the version:
Put your camera in "M" and switch it on (or switch it on first then put it to M, either way).
Press the "menu" button on your camera (top left).
Press the left arrow until you come to the 2nd last menu, this should be a spanner looking item with 3 dots.
The bottom label should say "Firmware Ver." followed by some numbers.
If your numbers are anything but "1.0.9" you will need to upgrade (or downgrade) to 1.0.9.
(A downgrade would not be necessary as of yet as there is no newer firmware released by Canon).

Updating the firmware: (if your firmware is not 1.0.9)
Canon provides a tutorial for this. Go to:
http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eosd/firm-e/eosdigital7/firmware.html
and follow the instructions.
If you can't access the link (if it is region blocked or similar) go to google and search "Canon 550D firmware" and look for a link that comes from a .canon. site.

When you're updated to 1.0.9 you can continue to the next step.


--The First Install (first-time installation - for a camera that has never had ML on it)

This process should only be performed once (for each camera, if you have used ML before on the camera you are using then jump below to "The Second Install".).
The original tutorial can be found here: http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install



Installation:
Format the card from the camera.
Make sure you are running Canon firmware 1.0.9.
Copy ML files on the card and run Firmware Update.
After installation, copy your ROM files (ML/LOGS on the card) to a safe place.


--The Second Install (installing Magic Lantern on other cards - for a camera that has run ML before)

Card Set-Up:
Get your new (or old) SD card and insert it into your camera.
Format the card in camera using a low level format (this will erase all content on the SD card).
Download EOSCard (windows/mac) or make_bootable.sh (linux). [links above]
... (brb)...


--Updating Magic Lantern (getting the latest features and fixes - for a camera that is running ML)

Updating ML is a simple process.
First go to builds.magiclantern.fm and download the latest build by clicking on the drop-down box and selecting "550D.109".
Turn your camera off, take out the SD card, and insert it into your computers SD card reader.
Delete the "autoexec.bin" file and the "ML" folder off of the SD card.
Now all you have to do is copy the new "autoexec.bin" file and the "ML" folder from your download across to the card, overwriting the old files.
(The download comes in a .zip folder, these can usually just be opened normally, otherwise you may have to 'extract' the files, this is usually done simply by right clicking and selecting extract.)
Put the card back in the camera and turn it on.

If a feature you previously used in ML is not functioning as normal, either revert to the older nightly build you had on your camera, or go back to the download page and click "Show Older Builds" and choose one from yesterday or the day before.
The majority of times the nightly builds are stable and it is rare that features break, if they do they are usually fixed within a couple of days (if not a day).

If the nightly builds page is not working for you, try again the next day.

If builds say that they have failed, click "Show Older Builds" and choose the most recent build that has not failed.


--Uninstalling Magic Lantern

Booting Without ML  (is a simple process).
If you want to boot your camera without ML, all you have to do is hold down the "SET" button while switching your camera "ON".

Un-installing ML (is a simple process).
It is not enough to simply delete ML off of your SD card, this will leave the bootflag on your card set and can potentially brick your camera (when booting from a card that has the bootflag set but no 'autoexec.bin' file).
If you want to completely un-install ML, all you have to do is turn your camera on, press the "MENU" button, find "Format" in the 'first tool' menu.
In format, see that "Low level format" is ticked by pressing the "delete" button, and select ok.
Be warned, formatting erases (deletes) everything on your card including all your pictures and videos, make sure you have taken them off your card first.


--FAQs (such as: I can't seeee raw recording in movie menu, heeeeeelp plzzzzzz!!!)

For all general Magic Lantern FAQs see this link: magiclantern.fm/faq.html

--What is "ML"?
It is an abbreviation for "Magic Lantern"

--How do I install ML on other cameras? (Such as my Somy 72m, Nicone a001, Olympics 7z1, etc)
For starters the camera has to be a supported Canon EOS camera. (ML does not run on Sony, Nikon, Pentax, Barbie cameras, etc etc)
The process for most cameras (particularly the cameras that were originally supported under the version 2.3 of ML) is generally the same,
however you must make sure your cameras firmware matches the firmware that ML requires,
and that if you do need to update your cameras firmware to match that you use the Canon firmware that matches your camera.
For relevant instructions to your camera you should find the specific cameras thread in the camera specific discussion board.

--Explain the boot flag thingy again!?
There are two bootflags; the Canon Camera bootflag, and the SD card bootflag.
The Camera bootflag only gets set once. When you buy your camera it is set to 0 (off), when installing ML for the first time (using ML's .fir file) it sets the bootflag to 1 (on). This allows SD cards which have the bootflag set to run the "autoexec.bin" file when the camera is turned on.
The SD bootflag is removed when formatting the card. The SD card comes without a bootflag. The bootflag is written into the card header (something like that, I don't know the technicalities) into a specific location (using a separate program that can write a Canon/ML bootflag). There are many different bootflags that can be written into an SD card that are not compatible with Canon cameras, so the result will be that ML does not run.
To set the bootflag on the SD card one needs "EOScard" (see links above).

--How does I Raw recording?!?!!1!
Provided you have followed this tutorial all the way (that is including the update to the nightly builds), you must then go into the ML menu,
then into the "modules" menu, there you can enable "raw_rec" or "mlv_rec" to record raw video. Then after restarting your camera you should find raw recording in the movie menu.
raw_rec: is the old original raw video recording format
mlv_rec: is the new raw video recording format which can contain more metadata
Sometimes better performance is achieved from the old format, the only way to truly know is to experiment yourself with it.

--I can only record video up to "1728x1156" resolution.
I can only agree with this statement. That is a limitation of the 550D.
See this google docs link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AgQ2MOkAZTFHdFFIcFp1d0R5TzVPTVJXOEVyUndteGc&usp=drive_web#gid=5

--My pictures/raws come out looking interlaced (they have lots of lines through them).
You have enabled "dual_iso", go into the modules menu and turn it off.

--My video is all flashy (every 2nd frame is bright).
You have enabled HDR video, go into the movie menu and turn it off.
HDR video is not raw recording (although can be used in conjunction with raw recording, but not in the case that you are after).

--The latest build is not working correctly for me.
See "Updating Magic Lantern" above.


--How to Contribute (and help progress of the 550D port of ML)

Register Maps need your support! A clean database is being made of the register maps and they need to be convert from the wikia.
550D has its own register map page and this needs to be converted into the new format.


--Credits (people who have contributed to this post)

ItsMeLenny: majority of post by
Audionut: contents hyperlinking
dmilligan: what's hot bits

IM me if I've missed you

Pretty self explanatory.

ML-Bot is ignorant and floods the IRC channel.

Whilst I do have some knowledge on the subject, I am just trying to wrap my head around some last bits of understanding for that ahhhh moment.

Here is my example bayer pattern:
RGRGRG
GBGBGB
RGRGRG
GBGBGB

I'll get back to it.
When a sensor (such as 550D) is said to have a resolution of 5184×3456, is this the amount of pixels of different colours?
As a resolution that size does result in jpeg images that size, or is this all due to the way it debayers.

So would the above bayer pattern have a resolution of:
A) 6x4
B) 3x2 (grouping in 4s)
C) 5x3 (weird debayering which I think is happening)

Weird debayering example:

RG GB	GR BG	RG GB	GR BG	RG GB
GB RG	BG GR	GB RG	BG GR	GB RG
RG GB	GR BG	RG GB	GR BG	RG GB

(Grouping of 'sensels' from my example bayer pattern above.)

Resulting in one less pixel each way because of the half a pixel on each end.

Or am I totally confused on everything.

The reason I ask also is to do with raw video; when recording 960x540 I was originally under the impression it would record 1920x1080 pixels (black and white of each bayered colour - if you get what I mean).

I'm not a developer, just a long time user, and I've been around the forums a bit.
This is my poll to see which feature you'd never like to see in Magic Lantern.
None of these suggested features are being added (at least not to my knowledge).
And some of them aren't even possible (at least not without extreme modification).
But this is where you can vote for your least favourite.

It'd be helpful for explaining menus and such to people if there was some sort of Magic Lantern emoticons in the forums here.
Either emoticons or some other way to embed standard (small) images (that would be hosted on ML) with a click of a button (not with the img tag).
These icons would consist of (but also not limited to):
- a small ML camera icon
- the menu icons (audio, expo, overlay, movie, shoot, focus, display, prefs, modules, debug, help, modified)
- the green and greyed out squares and circles (enabled and disabled icon indicators) (and any other type of indicator)
- any other popular ML or menu icons

I found this news interesting and happy to hear.

Our motto has always been: "As open as possible, as closed as necessary". The apertus° core team (apertus° association board of directors and apertus° company representatives) have recently met up in a virtual boardroom, with the intention of not leaving until a decision had been reached regarding "how closed is actually necessary".

https://www.apertus.org/openness-explained-2014

For those interested in their camera, and interested in open source cameras, I am sure you will be happy with their decision.

Could ML ISO be enabled in photo mode? (550D)
I'm assuming it's disabled there because it doesn't effect raw.
But for those who like to shoot jpeg. (<-just me probably)

Where is that long list of registers that are in hex or something and the known ones say what they do yet it still lists the unknown ones?
Hopefully somebody knows what I'm talking about

Would it be possible, and/or useful, to have a discussion board where people can post and discuss hacking other cameras or other brands?
One would post a new topic with the title being their brand and model number to either reveal a firmware mod or discuss how to mod/hack.

I'm a bit confused as to why on my 550d I can get 45mb/s video bitrate (fullHD PAL / 1080p 25fps) yet the max card write speed is only 21mb/s (and then my card probably doesn't even write half that).

Is this a case of me confusing megabit with megabyte?

What happened to everybody's display picture?
They all disappeared, including my own, and I can't re-add one.

Are there any alternatives to Canons Picture Style Editor?

Does anybody have their own technique?

So if I put my 550D to 3:2 and 1728, it is 1728x1152.
Where as the max vertical is actually 1156.
But due to the aspect ratio restrictions those extra pixels can't be grabbed.

Is there a way around this?

Previously I thought the only way to get an FD lens to work was with an adapted which would either not allow focus to infinity or require an extra lens element to correct focus.

Then I came across these expensive things online. (one site: http://fdtoef.com/ ) (There's a few different sites)


Which require dismantling part of lens and also applying a little arm so that the aperture works, said to be completely reversible.

These are a bit over 100 bux a pop, and I'm not sure why there's different ones for different lenses, whether it's just for the detector pins.


MY QUESTION:

Has anybody had any experience making their own?
Either CNCing or machining metal (whichever the correct term is).
OR
3D printing in a nice black plastic?

If not, is anybody an experienced 3D modeller willing to make a free printable model?
(Not that I have a 3D printer, but I have enough FD lenses that a 3D printer would be worth buying).
That's if plastic would be reliable enough.

This is my entry for a Doritos competition. www.doritos.com
"Doridolls"

You can rate it here: https://www.youtube.com/doritos?x=us-en_submissionsphase_9182_
(5 stars please  . But it doesn't do anything, official voting isn't til next year and that's if it gets chosen.)

I shot this on a 550D with ML. I ended up shooting at 59.94 fps and slowing it to 24fps.
All shots are at 100 iso with the shutter at 360 degrees. This required me to stop down the lens to not blow out everything.
That's why there is sometimes little depth of field, not that I'm not satisfied with the result.
I used the 18mm to 55mm standard lens.
I actually shot this on canons new VIDEO-X colour profile.
Then edited in Cinelerra on Ubuntu, making use of the Blue Banana plug-in.

The comp is open to nearly everyone, just check that you're allowed to enter in your country.
Feel free to, but just a note, it took 2 days for my video to get accepted.

Has anybody attempted their hand at creating some sort of wireless flash synchronization?
Something similar to a transmitter unit that attaches to the camera, with receiver units on each flash.
(Just old manual flashes, not new canon ones).

I found this quite amusing, and in terms of some of the new topics I see get posted, it may be of some education to watch.

http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting
(flash video)

Somebody was in the IRC channel waiting for their user to be accepted, it may have happened in the mean time.
They said it had been a day or so, just curious how many admins there are about to do such a thing.

Despite owning the 550D, I've never really been a fan of CMOS sensors, or of the bayer sensor pattern.
3CCD has always looked juicy in my own opinion, but I have been told it can only do up to certain resolutions before alignment becomes an issue.
(Although recording all three sensors separately could then be aligned correctly in post I would imagine.)


Recently! I came across information of this "foveon X3 sensor" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foveon_X3_sensor
And I'd like to get any opinions on it if people hold them. http://www.foveon.com/article.php?a=67

The axiom camera plans to use a CMV12000 from CMOSIS, which is a CMOS sensor with a global shutter, but it still has a bayer sensor pattern.
https://www.apertus.org/axiom_imagesensor


Which the problem with bayer is the moire.
But, ultimately with raw, if things like libraw improve, which it constantly does, moire becomes less and less a problem.

Essentially stop motion in camera;
Start a normal h.264 recording, it records nothing, press the "ok" button, it records a frame, press it again it records the next frame, so on and so forth.

It seems like ML has 4 different focus stepping increments where as the PTP arduino protocol has only 3.
Regardless;
Does anybody know the relationship between them. As in how many small steps are there in one big step.
Whether they differ between cameras (which I guess they shouldn't as it's to do with the lenses not the camera),
I am particularly interested in 550D (as that is what I own).

The jpegs that the camera seems to produce are 4:2:2.
Is there any way to subsample at 4:4:4.
I was also going to say is it possible to go 4:2:0, but is that what the lower quality settings are for (I will have to try that).
Also is there ways to change the quality percentage, it sits around 97% or the like at the moment?

I didn't want to do the ol' feature request for a non possible feature.
And in a way this plays back on the hdr in camera (although I'm not sure if the hdr in camera in 650D and what not is fake from 1 picture or is from multiple pics).

The question is:
Would it be possible to tone map in camera before it saves as a jpeg (or video)?
So say it takes the raw sensor data, applies the white balance, applies the picture style, (as usual) -
Then on top of that it applies a tone mapping with a selectable contrast compression from 1.0 to 2.0 (although I find anything over 1.5 to be a bit much) -
And then the jpeg be saved from that.

Can we ban the word "Kickstarter" on these forums, along with anything similar?

This request should also come in conjunction with my "turning Magic Lantern into a cult" suggestion.

I realise canon already has it's own (limited) speed control).
However I was thinking if one records in 24FPS, and records audio on a separate device.
When playing back the two together to see a take they will be slightly out, as 24 plays back slightly faster at 25fps.
So if there was some way to specifically override the playback fps.

Unless I'm missing something it jumps: 9000, 9500, 10000.
So in groups of 500, however when I white balance with a card I get values like 9700.
I'd like to be able to enter in 9700 for when I have to match a scene.
I'm not sure how this can be done to avoid always having to scroll through values by 100s.
Thanks.

This bizarre thing has started happening with the write-ability of my SD cards with the new magic lanterns, although I'm unsure as to how this works.

What I do is format a card using my camera, then I put my card into my computer using a usb card reader, and I make the card bootable.
Then I copy magic lantern onto it, the folder and the .bin, and at that moment the card becomes read only in the computer.
Then to be able to put stuff onto the card I have to reformat it in my camera, or reformat it in general, then I do the whole process again.

What this means is I can't delete photos when the card is in my computer, and I can't add new overlays or scripts, or easily update ML as I have to keep starting the process over.

This wasn't always the problem, but it seemed to change with ML as I haven't changed my computer at all.
I've tried accessing the card as root and all other root kind of things, still says not writeable.
Note that I write to the card 2 seconds before this happens.
Running Gnu/Linux Ubuntu 12.04.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I took some photos with RAW+JPEG to get a comparison of the Raw and what it looks like processed in "Darktable".
Darktable can't take canon picture styles (ofc) so I've just gone with neutral ps when shooting.
Darktable doesn't have the curve that canon uses either, but it has an estimated preset which is "canon like" which I've included to show the difference.

This is the original JPEG canon neutral.	This is the original JPEG canon neutral -4 contrast.
This is the canon like curve from darktable.	This is the no curve on the RAW from darktable.

I think it's been discussed before, but bypassing just picture styles, to get this no curve look.
I mentioned ML iso in the title because when this is used on different pictures styles it changes how much it can be used.
For example between "cinestyle" and "flaat", you can ramp it up higher in cinestyle because they are clipping the highlights more in the first place.
So ML iso is basically in camera picture style curve editing.

Neutral picture style, is neutral with a curve. If the curve can be bypassed, plus on top of that the contrast dropped to fit more dynamic range in, of course this doesn't want to be done too extreme. The guy flaat has flaat_10, flaat_11, flaat_12 and as soon as you hit 12, even 11, it gets a bit useless, http://similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-styles/index.html


EDIT: as the photos I had on here were removed off the original site, I've now inserted replacements. Hence the update.

I have a 550D, and I have recently picked up a Canon speedlite 299T. It's an old flash from an automatic SLR.
What are the rules for using flashes on DSLR's. The sync voltage problems and what not.
This has 3 pins on it, I've seen things about taping 2 of the pins.
How does one test (or reliably find) the sync voltage of a flash and the sync voltage of the camera?
Do I need to build kind of a surge protector to go in between the flash and the camera?

I've been getting a problem on my 550d. When I switch the camera on and record video, it records for a couple of seconds then says that it's automatically stopped recording. Then when I hit record again it works. I'm not sure what's going on with that initial first recording.

I question how pointless this feature would be:

I do recall a few years ago checking out something that was like a CHDK fork (SDM) which allowed two point and shoot cameras to focus and capture the same as each other to allow for 3D photography.

Ultimately after syncing start/stop of a video the next problem is focus (usually needing an accurate duel follow focus rig) but ML has the option to focus via the arrow buttons, can these output so that when the button is pressed on one camera the other camera can detect it as well?


(here's the link http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/sdm/index.htm )