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Arbitrary feature omissions despite the compatible and powerful hardware is the only thing driving me nuts in this industry and Sony keeps doing it & gets away with it.

It became so annoying lately.

Can you believe that all Sony mirrorless SLRs omit 30p framerate option from h.265 codec? The weird thing is they let you record in higher frame rates, so it is not a hardware limitation, but not 30p... So if you are NTSC user, all you can do is 24p and 60p. I checked every single Sony SLR that is capable of recording H.265 and the issue persist in all of them.

Like they don't want you to shoot with that codec on purpose. I checked all the internet and there is zero reason why Sony SLR can't do it, but they won't. There has been numerous firmware updates and this has never been adressed for years.

I wish I was a capable computer engineer like ML devs and extract&edit the firmware updates that come in as .DAT files just to add that single 30p option in the menu.

Hey peeps,

A friend of mine is an indie moviemaker and he's gonna shoot a short in a few months. He called me to work in his set as sound editor & foleys etc... I don't have much experience in this field but he trusts me and says it doesn't require master knowledge (at least not for his project). He asks me to read the script and write down which sound is required where and then record it.

(Dialogue is not a part of my job, they have a sound guy for dialogue recording, but the rest is on my shoulders.)

Now i need to study a bit about sound editing in general and how to record foley sounds. Do you happen to know nice guides for beginners?
He also asked me to write whatever equipment i need for the job and he'll supply it. I was immediately thinking Zoom H4N, would it suit to this kind of project? What else do you think i'll need for this job? Rode VideoMic Stereo?

(BTW i have Rode VideoMic Pro, Rode Micro boom pole and 3meters rode vc-1 stereo extension cables in my gear arsenal. Am I going to be needing these?)

Thanks very much.
It is very important for me.

[1280x7201472x8281504x8461728x972 (this one is most important for me)]

I know there are some users here who happen to have 32 or 64GB versions of Sandisk Extreme Pro and 650D. What i need is a RAW recording benchmark. Please do test and write how long can you record at certain resolutions before skipping frames such as:

1280x720
1472x828
1504x846
1728x972 (this one is most important for me)

Thank you.

As title says, rumors suggest that we'll soon see a new FF camera from Canon (possible 5D Mark IV) in response to new 4K capable Sony A7 and Panasonic GH4 . Please vote the top 5 features that you'd like to see implemented in upcoming Canon product.

Please note that this poll was made merely for entertainment.

I'm starting a new project for a client in the end of this summer. Will be shooting at over 150 historical locations (ancient ruins, settlements etc...) and going to be travelling a lot. The work will be about introducing the historical heritage of my country. I will do short pan and tilt shots, slider shots for up to 10 secs and then combine them into a final 2-3 minutes of videos for each location. The videos will end up on YouTube.

As camera, have the 650D and a 95MB/s Sandisk Extreme Pro card. So I am able to do 720p raw recording long enough for this work. The question is whether I should go RAW or not. Because I can also do high bitrate 1080p h.264. Which one do you think is going to look better?

Another limimation I have is the hard drive space. Since all i have is a portable 1TB drive, do you think it will be enough? Theoretically how long of RAW footage this drive can hold?

Thanks.

Latest headphones that come with mobile phones and Apple devices do have volume +/- and a custom function button on them. Can devs program ML to take advantage of these buttons?

I mean it could be very practical.

I set my mind to buy the Manfrotto MVH502A Fluid Head and MVT502AM Tripod System With Carrying Bag

And then i choose KONOVA Slider K3 80cm (31.5-Inch) to go with it.

My concern is that tripod and slider won't be compatible. It says in the product page that tripod has half ball head connection (i don't know what that means, haven't seen it before). So will this slider fit on my tripod nicely? Or should I go with a flat base tripod and fluid head combination?

Also do you think i'd be safe using that slider with single tripod? Because i heard long sliders tend to wobble if used on single tripod. Since i haven't used a slider before, i don't know what is the safe limit here.

I don't take any pictures with my camera, not at all. All i do is video recording. As my job requires it, i have to turn it on and off pretty often (also to preserve the battery).

So I don't want the mirror to move when I turn on and off the camera. To me it's just eating precious shutter life. Can you force camera to make the mirror stay the same all the time?

Hi,

I just woke up today and tried to turned on my camera just to see that it won't. There are no reactions from the camera. No shutter sound, no lights nothing... I tried with 3 different battery packs, with and without SD card and result is the same.

The last shot i made with my camera was outside, i was shooting in the mild rain. But i think it can't be the cause of this. Because it was hardly raining and the camera worked perfectly while it was raining. So if the water caused this, shouldn't it be apparent by then? Do you think the tiny rainwater droplets can make their way into my camera and cause short circuit?  What else could be the cause? Any tips to restore it back to working condition is welcomed. Thanks!

I was running Magic Lantern by the way...

Hey guys,

I'm kind of an semi-experienced video shooter but a beginner in terms of photography. So please bear with me. I have found a very good corner of nature for timelapse videos. No residential areas around and no light pollution! So I would like to know more about timelapse shooting at night sky.

First of all, how can I do it in post production? The camera takes pictures in certain time intervals, yeah i get it. But how can i get these pictures together in Premiere Pro to make a fluid movie? That's the part i don't understand.

Secondly what are the safe values for astrophotography? The highest iso i can set, right exposure settings etc...

Edit: There also people who shoot HDR timelapse. How do you do it?

Is there anything else I should know?

650D user here,

I know the FPS override feature is not for slow motion, and I'm not asking things like 120FPS or something. Since I know I can't get that much frame rates from 650D, i'm slowing down my footage using Twixtor/After Effects. But when using Twixtor, every bit of extra FPS is helpful. So I was playing around with FPS override feature today just to squeeze extra few FPS out of my little 650D. But no matter what I did actual FPS didn't go over 59,94. Is there a way to set FPS at 65 frames? or 64,63,62 ? :-)

By the way, here's a video of mine shot @ 60 FPS and 720p on 650D and then slowed down via Twixtor.

I see that 600D now has the audio tab enabled. I believe that 650D owners also need such special treatment! 

As an 650D owner I'm ready for any testing whatsoever. I have the SESCOM audio cable (A/V to 3.5mm jack), FiiO headphone amplifier and monitoring headphones. Everythings ready. Just throw me an experimental build with audio tab enabled and I'll check the audio monitoring and all other features.