Messages

by the way is
2018-07-02  the latest version available? No further planned or maybe other branch with new name?

Download the latest build from here:
https://bitbucket.org/Levas_EOS/magic-lantern/downloads/

May 19 works well, though I experienced some glitches in crop mode with it.

Auto focusing with original firmware was very slow, but then Canon improved it a lot with a firmware upgrade. But, it is still CDAF which breathes a lot when focusing, so quite useless for serious work. If you need good AF, 70D is the best in this regard, it has DPAF, which is very smooth and doesn't breathe in good to moderate light.

Funny how a simple question can sometimes trigger a discussion like this..

I love EOS M a lot (have three of them), but to me its strength is small size. Adding an adapter (which has the same thickness) and then attaching a large EF lens to it defies the purpose because it makes the final setup large again. I would rather use 70D or something because the length would be the same and the width just a bit more. I considered Viltrox EF-EOS M2 adapter recently, but after watching this review (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoZV7iVXmHE) I decided against it - it degrades image too much. Can't stand the softness overall and especially in the corners (at large apertures) and ugly violet CA around high contrast edges (see 12:44 in the video where he shows some trees against bright sky). Some people are less sensitive to these things, I guess.

Metabones recently released their own focal reducer for the M mount, but at $480US it's not exactly a bargain, though I expect it to be much better optically.

To me personally, if larger apertures are needed, EOS M should be used with those 7artisans/Meike/Kamlan primes, which are relatively inexpensive and keep the final setup small. I'm planning to get Kamlan 28mm F1.4 or Meike MK-35mm F/1.4 because they have good reviews.

Overall, as it stands atm, we don't have a perfect camera for ML, each has its own strengths and weaknesses. 5Dm3 is the best overall, but it doesn't have DP auto focus. 70D has it, but can't do 3x3 binning (as the rest). EOS M is small but its focusing system isn't the best. This is why I personally have different cameras and use them differently.

I would never use EOS M as the main camera to film a paid job. It just looks silly, like if you are using a compact or something . But it's great for run and gun situations.

You can download everything directly for Danne's repo:
https://bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magic-lantern/downloads/

~

What´s that menu even called? Also, what compilation works differently with the menu button?

Hmm.. just checked. 5Dm3 exits ML upon pressing Menu but 7D goes into this menu, which has two different screens - one with fewer bigger buttons and the other one with more buttons of smaller size. Pressing Menu cycles ML - sceen 1 - screen 2 - ML. The build is https://bitbucket.org/ArcziPL/magic-lantern/downloads/magiclantern-Nightly.2019Mar07.70D112_crop_rec_4k_mlv_lite_lossless.zip

Not sure if this is still relevant. I've just finished smoking the thread to educate myself about nuances of running ML on my recently acquired 70D. I've come across mentioned a couple of times people having difficulty running SD OverClock module on ArcziPL's builds. I also experienced this - the module giving me malloc errors when trying to run it. In my case it gives the error if Raw video is on. If I turn it off, I can enable overclock and then turn Raw video on.

I also did some quick tests today comparing different sd_uhs modules and it seems the one included is slower than Danne's. I will do more tests to confirm this.

Actually, that exits menu and back to liveview. Not sure why it´s not working. Feel free to investigate this issue further.

Crap. Sorry, you are right! 4 cameras with ML working slightly differently on all of them can get a man confused 
This explains my annoyance when I get this screen on my other cameras - I expect to exit ML as with EOS M but instead I get this...

Press the Menu button while in ML.

The April 11 build that I used for a while allowed me to set resolutions up to 1890 vertical in 4k Anamorphic Rewired. Lower resolutions, around 1800 vertical in 16:9 gave almost pink frame free footage with kill GD on. The lowest I tested was 1072 x 1810 24fps 14bit. And yes, I'm in the habit of going to Canon menu now every time I change something.

Thanks Danne

Should try this new build and see if it is pink frame free. With your April builds I got continuous at 1120 x 1890 24fps 12bit, but it was pink frame hell.

I think you meant to say 'doesn't have to have a crop'. Obviously we crop because the cameras don't keep up with capturing and recording full sensor readout even in 1x3 mode, so we are bandwidth limited.

ricardopt

You are correct, when using anamorphic mode you only get a crop of the sensor. In fact, the only mode that gives you full sensor picture is mv1080p varieties, all other modes only read a part of the sensor, hence what you call a zoom in effect. The difference between 1x1 and 1x3 (anamorphic) modes is that the latter is able to capture a larger part of the sensor. With 1x1 mode you get around x3 crop, with 1x3 you get around x1.5-1.6 (crop depends on the resolution chosen, the higher the res, the larger the crop,  the smaller the crop factor).

Does it make sense?

Workaround when using 10bit for example in crop mode sub menu is doing the same as when reducing to 12 or 11 bits in RAW video section. Not as sophisticated but works.

Are you saying changing bitrate in crop mode sub menu is different from doing the same in RAW video section?

I've been looking through the forums but can anyone tell me if turning off sound and kill global draw will result in longer recording times? does setting to greyscale have any effect?

From my experiments turning off sound and killing global draw will definitely help to either make a recording a bit longer or if it is borderline continuous become one. Not sure what you mean by greyscale, if you mean setting preview to Frozen LV, it will help a bit as well, but not as much as turning LV off altogether.

From my experiments, the biggest improvement comes from changing bitrate from 14 bit to 12 bit - improvement of almost 11% in terms of reducing generated data. Strangely, going from 12 bit to 10 bit reduces data by only 7.5% - still a good improvement though. Turning off sound and killing global draw has much smaller effect than reducing bitrate. I never measured it but I would say maybe 2-3%.

Or shoot 2000x2000 and then when you combine it will be 4000x2000

I don't think this would be optimal. You will have some vignetting and distortion in the corners/edges. You would need to correct these in post, otherwise you will have darker lines/blobs in the middle of your video (like in the example video above) and also the stretched/distorted corners will meet in the middle of your frame and you will get a weird looking picture. Also, how about sharpness decrease in the corners? For this reason when making panoramas you always overlap shots by about 30%, maybe this won't be a problem with low res videos..

Now we're talkin'.
I got 4 eos m's. Just sayin'...

Gosh, and I thought my 3 were an excess. How did you come to own 4?!

All in all, this is a neat idea, I need to try it out.. I imagine a custom mounting plate should be used - cameras either looking away or towards each other.

@arkasa

Just read the thread starting from around the middle of 2018 until now (maybe even twice - i didn't get some things from the first read), almost everything you need to know is there.

Try turning off all the modules, start camera in photo mode and shoot a still with that kit lens attached. Chances are the shutter won't fire.

I'm now on the latest Danne's build - crop_rec_4k_mlv_snd_isogain_1x3_presets_2019May23.EOSM202
Just repeated the test with all 3 of my 18-55mm kit lenses.

With two I couldn't reproduce the shutter bug by doing this:
1 disable all modules
2 start camera in photo mode
3 take pictures
4 switch to video mode
5 take pictures
6 switch back to photo mode
7 take pictures

The camera focused and took photos fine.

With the third lens I was getting one misfire (when I press the shutter button and nothing happened) at 2nd and 7th steps. First attempt of taking photo didn't work, consecutive attempts worked fine.

A few days ago when I was trying to purposefully reproduce the shutter bug with the original lens, I managed to succeed by messing around in ML menu and doing crazy things like disabling modules and re-enabling them again right away:) Then I would get one misfire and then it worked fine again. One time I managed to get it permanent - all attempts of taking photos let to shutter not firing - don't remember what I did ( I think I started in video mode and filmed a short raw clip and then switched to photo and attempted to take a shot), but a camera reboot fixed it and it went back to normal.

Ok, did a tests with these settings:
crop_rec_4k_mlv_snd_isogain_1x3_presets_2019May23.EOSM202
4k anamorph preset, 1064x1800 12bit 25fps iso100
Bright sunny day, lots of trees and some white roof tops in the frame (can't post pictures for some reason).
Scene underexposed by ~1 stop (i believe vertical lines in the histogram are stops?) to avoid highlights clipping and to reduce data rate.
Two clips - 10 and 5 minutes.
For the first 6 minutes the time indicator was green, then became orange when the sun came out from behind a cloud, making rooftops very bright.
Result - 0 corrupted frames.

Do you mean the 1488x1900 preset you get by running your cinema 2:35 script? I will test it, but it seems to me current anamorphic presets get corruption when they are close to maximum writing speed when data pipeline is saturated and something starts to break. So, one needs to make sure not to go above 60-62mbs or maybe even lower and things should be ok?

Confirming the fog in anamorphic presets is gone in the latest build by Levas. Filmed for 10 minutes and it didn't occur.

- Possible fix for corrupted frames in anamorphic modes

For all "anamorphers" out there you may wanna test this version since it seems we can get corruptionless footage. Not that there was a lot of it but still.

@Danne

Tested your latest build - crop_rec_4k_mlv_snd_isogain_1x3_presets_2019May20.EOSM202
Filmed two clips - 10 and 5 minutes long at 1072x1810 25fps 12bit with 4k anam preset.
In the 10 min clip I found 23 corrupted frames in the first 4m20s of it, didn't check after that.
In the 5 min clip I found 0 corrupted frames, the difference is that I was filming during sunset and the second clip was much darker.

Ok, you need to specify exactly what build used since it might very well not be a problem for a a week or two at least.

Ok, sorry, it's the build from message 1124, which was the previous build posted.
Which is magiclantern-Nightly.2019May13.6D116.zip

Update:

Just downloaded and tried the latest build magiclantern-Nightly.2019May19.6D116.zip
Did a quick test (by looking at the screen) - pink fog thing seem to have gone - couldn't see any. Will do a proper test tomorrow, but looks very good!
Will also test centering for all presets in this build.

Levas, do you want me to test dual iso module?

@Danne

Haven't tested the latest build yet. The frames above are from the previous build just for the record and so that Levas could compare with his results.

@Levas

Thank you for the new build, will test it shortly.

For now want to show you how the pink fog worked on my 6D:
Normal frame (actually, if you look closely, there's some pinkness on the very top already):




When it starts:




..it quickly becomes like this and stays so:




BTW, I have nothing activated in the Overlay menu, only GD set to LV