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Messages - kore

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Hi everyone and -as always- thanks for supporting ML.

There's one ML feature I dream about that would make my photoshoots way easier and faster. I love to shoot automotive content with the Canon 85mm @ f/1.2 because it creates on a car the same effect a 50mm f/1.8 creates on a portrait, so I'm sticking at f/1.2. BUT the focused area is obviously too soft at that aperture so my workaround is to take two frames with same exposure but different aperture and then blend them manually in Photoshop.

Picture 1: f/1.2  1/1000  ISO100
Picture 2: f/3.5  1/1000  ISO800

Both have more or less the same exposure, so I stack them on Ps to bring sharp details from the f/3.5 to the beautiful f1.2

The idea for a ML module would be the following:
  1. I set my exposure with a wide aperture (M mode)
  2. I take a 1st picture
  3. As soon as that picture is taken, ML reads my exposure settings and takes a 2nd picture closing my aperture by three stops and rising the ISO to compensate and achieve the same exposure.

Please tell me if I'm not explaining properly.
If ML does that automatically on my 6D, I would be happy to make a donation to whoever does this beacuse my work would be much faster.

Thanks again

Focus Peaking doesn't work while Magic Zoom is active. You have to pick only one of these focus aids.

Looks like you're absolutely right. I'm sad I can't use both at the same time, would be awesome. But It's great anyway, thank you for your quick response!

Hi guys. As always, thanks for the help and keeping ML supported.

As you can see, there's no focus peaking (I have fiddled with the focus peak settings but nothing changes) neither in video or stills mode. The best part is that I know It worked once, but then I turned it off because I started using a monitor with internal focus peaking. Now I would like to use it again. Am I doing something wrong?

Thank you so much!

General Help Q&A / Re: Dual ISO (am I doing it right?)
« on: June 22, 2017, 07:01:36 PM »
Try to find a subject that requires even more shadow pushing (something that has a lot of noise at ISO 100, but looks fine at 1600).

Otherwise, if the clipped highlights are not very important, it's probably better to use a single ISO.

Thanx Alex, you're always there. Just needed to make sure I wasn't doing it completely wrong. I'll keep testing it in real scenarios.


General Help Q&A / Dual ISO (am I doing it right?)
« on: June 22, 2017, 01:06:40 PM »
Hi Guys. Before it all, thanks to the ML team for bringing us this.

Question: I'be been doing dual ISO tests and I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. Is this the correct method?

1) f/6.3 1/200s ISO-100 exposes good the highlights (exterior) and ISO-1600 exposes good the shadows (living room).
2) So I take a dual ISO shot 100-1600.
3) Take that CR2 to cr2hdr.exe
4) Open the DNG result and push up the shadows

The image obtained is the following:

Here is the thing: If I do what I use to do (without hearing about dual ISO) is take a halfway exposure between the exterior and the living room, so ISO-640. Then just open that CR2, push up the shadows, and push down a bit the highlights. This is the result:

The only consistent difference I can notice is the worse highlights recovery (look at some elements outside).

As you can see, there is not a huge difference between both pictures so I wonder If I'm doing something wrong.
Tank you.

Hi. I was wondering if I was doing it right so I thought the best way to ask about it was to show what I do.
It's a question, but if the method is correct, can be taken as a tutorial.

This is what I tried at home:

Final result (I'ts just a home test. Winning a contest was not my intention):

I found adjusting the curves more tricky than as usual. As you can see, some midtones (see the grey seat) are completely fu**ed so I know I'm not doing it completely right when It comes to push up the shadows.

Please, am I doing it about right? Is this workflow close to how it should be?

Thank you.

General Help Q&A / Re: USB / Wifi Camera Control
« on: May 12, 2017, 07:33:59 PM »
- trigger the camera to take a picture
 - change ISO setting
 - preview new images
 - read the file name of new images

It may sound stupid, but you can do exactly those things by conecting your 6D to your phone via Wifi with the app 'Canon Camera Connect'. The limitation here is that you can't do video. No ML is needed for that. If you have an Android device, you can also use DSLR Controller (paid app) which works via USB to the camera.

Hi! Last weekend I did several tests with Trap Focus. It's an awesome feature and -for me- one of those things that make ML really useful.

Question: I noticed in some shots the Trap Focus wasn't quick enough, firing the shutter when the object was no longer in focus. I'm aware that the DOF was pretty ridicoulous (shooting a car with 85mm f/1.4 in a full frame 6D) and the object was moving in a relatively quick speed. So I think this delay is just due to camera speed limitations. Is that right?

Anyway, thanks for this nice feature. Regards!

Thank you, It worked.
As the link on the Nightly Build page drives you to Canon lastest firmware (1.1.7) maybe that should be corrected. Anyone can follow that link by mistake and end trying to ML over the 1.1.7 firmware (or just feel lost, like I was).

Somethink like this on each Nightly Build page would be nice:
*If the provided link to Canon's original firmware download shows a later version than needed, look for the needed version 'here'

Just as a suggestion.

Hi everyone!
I've been using ML on my 60D and now I've moved to a 6D.
I know I need original 1.1.6 Firmware to do a clean install before aplying ML but I can only get the 1.1.7 from Canon's webpage, because they updated it.

Where can I download the original 1.1.6 firmware?
(Camera is now running 1.1.3)

Thank you so much!

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