Thanks for sharing!
Etiquette, expectations, entitlement...
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Any updates on the possibility of Cinelog?
Could we not allow a users who own Cinelog to copy the dcp files into a place where MLVApp can detect and use it?
Quote from: amitkattal on July 01, 2020, 07:32:13 PMLinks? Further info on gear used?
Okay so I saw a video of a guy who turned his phone as a monitor for EOS M and magic lantern. He used video capture card and everything worked fine for him. The issue is when i try and use MC rewire 1080 mode, the screen always is black and doesnt show anything. Only time it works if i chose any other modes besides 1080p rewire mode. I was wondering if anyone ever tried it or know whats the issue?
Quote from: Danne on January 11, 2020, 06:26:02 PM
Colorful result and noise free shadows:
Quote from: IDA_ML on January 08, 2020, 08:36:42 AMThis will be an interesting watch if you do get the time to do this @IDA_ML . It would also be good to understand how to interpret 14fps footage on a final target 24fps timeline etc. Or how to get it there one way or another for general consumption.
I have tried that too hoping that difraction at F22 will reduce lens sharpness and will thus lessen aliasing. Unfortunately, the image became too soft for my liking. This is also lens dependent. Some lenses such as the 17-40/4L seem to tolerate F22 better than others. Didn't try too hard though. Maybe, an F-stop range between 11 and 16 where difraction is less pronounced will provide better results w.r.t. aliasing.
Just like you, I very much like wide angle landscape videography. My way of fighting aliasing in this case is filming at high resolution in the anamorphic mode. In this mode, aliasing is barely visible to non existent and as an additional bonus, you have the high resolution - up to 5k. The downside is huge file sizes and long MLVApp render times, limited recording times at the highest resolutions and also reduced frame rates. I had the opportunity to try filming at 1736x2928 resolution at 14 fps and 12-bits lossless on the EOS-M recently and this provides excellent aliasing free results, even with Dual ISO. Due to the wide angle of view and the low angle velocity of the moving objects in the scene, (typically clouds, vehicles, water, smoke, etc.), even at 14 fps, you can achieve very smooth motion in your shots. You start observing choppyness only if the moving objects are too close to your camera and move perpendicular to the optical axis. As soon as I find some time, I will prepare a video with examples of wide angle landscape videography shot at the above settings.
Quote from: IDA_ML on December 06, 2019, 07:21:25 AMThanks mate. Yes I've got heaps of variable nd's for this exact purpose
If you want smooth cinematic timelapse videos, setting long enough frame to frame intervals is not enough. You also need long exposure times. If, for example, you choose 2.5 fps for a certain scene, you need 0,4 s shutter speed to get this smooth motion blur of the moving objects in the scene and this is what causes the overexposure in day light. You need a variable ND filter to compensate for that. Unfortunately, there is no way around it, no matter what method you use. If you use, say 1/30 s, your smoothness is gone. In my experience, fairly cheap no name VND filters do a decent job with timelapses.
About half a year ago, Danne brought timelapse shooting functionality on the 100D to perfection. 4k and 5k resolutions in combination with the correct fps rates and reciprocal slow shutter speeds, as well as a nice fast preview for focusing upon half shutter press make timelapse shooting really fast, easy and a lot of fun. I have been enjoying it tremendously last summer - one more reason for me to keep my 100D.
Quote from: Danne on December 06, 2019, 06:13:26 AM
How do you mean? If you want 0.5 you enable fps override and then add intervalometer? Or what do you mean?
Besides that. If you you run frameburst mode and then average let's say 49 images you'll get the long exposure look but without the laggy screen.
Quote from: IDA_ML on December 04, 2019, 01:24:44 PM
I am not sure if using the intervalometer is the best option for timelapses. In the silent module of the 100D, intervalometer causes quite a sustantial dead time from frame to frame which results in a choppy timelapse video. On the other hand, if you shoot timelapses in the movie mode using fps override, dead time is close to 0 and this produces very smooth and cinematic timelapses. The only downside of this mode is the very slow refresh rate of the screen at low fps (0,4 to 4 fps) which makes focusing a pain. Please compare both modes and if you succeed, I would be curious to see the results.
Quote from: Danne on December 04, 2019, 12:38:26 PM
Yup. Agree @bakersdozen. Pretty much sums up my thoughts and uses around this addition.
Quote from: DeafEyeJedi on November 24, 2019, 05:22:16 AMSeconded, almost too easy
Bad pixel fix in MLV_App does wonders, actually!
Quote from: DeafEyeJedi on November 20, 2019, 08:32:14 AMAll good brother and right on
Sure enough you're right. Thanks for pointing that to my attention @bakersdozen!
Meant no intention to start a wild goose chase for nothing. Geez, my bad!
Sigma Art 20mm 1.4 + Viltrox Booster is gonna do wonders.
Ain't that right, @Danne?
Quote from: DeafEyeJedi on November 20, 2019, 08:03:34 AM
Also which version of the Viltrox speed booster did you use for this @LittleBig M?
Quote from: masc on November 09, 2019, 10:53:01 AMDoesn't specifically say on viltrox homepage, but the newet version is called EF-M2II (rather than just EF-M2) and has it written on the speed booster itself.
Where did you get the information that there is a vii at all? Can't find that on the Viltrox homepage...
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