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Update: the camera drains a lot of battery when I insert it, even if there are no signs of life.

Yeah I know I had to pull the battery off...
Anyway, there's no Custom Mode on the 600D, and when this happened I was using a Patona battery, which is a trustworthy brand, not a cheap chinese one.

Hi,
I was shooting a stop motion movie using the live view, when my Canon T3i/600d (with ML Nightly.2015Apr19.600D102) froze.
The monitor remained on but frozen, and the camera didn't respond to any command. The fact that the monitor was on makes me think it's not a power issue.
When I switched the camera off it responded to this, the mirror went down (it was up, since I was shooting in live view) and the camera shut down.
The SD inside was a 16GB Sandisk SDHC.

Then NOTHING.

I tried everything: I changed four different charged original and non original batteries, tried with a battery grip, cleaned the contacts, pushed the battery and SD little things that are pushed by closing the doors, turned on in every dial mode, tried a 64GB SDXC Sandisk with the same Magic Lantern installed, took in and out the batteries and the SDs, downloaded the Portable display test, downloaded the LED test, removed the lense, formatted the 16GB from PC in FAT32, run EOScard EOS_DEVELOP and BOOTDISK checked and put the autoexec.bin for the diagnostic tests in the card, put the diagnostic things on the 64GB unformatted card.

NOTHING. No sound, no LED. No signs of life.

Do I still have any hope? The warranty costs won't probably be worth it.
Thanks.

Hi,
this is my first post here, and I hope someone can help me.

I used to shoot videos with my 600D and ML, using Highlight Tone Priority [ON] and ML ISOs [multiplies of 80].
To set the 80x ISO, obviously, I set ML Digital ISO [-0.3EV], and ISO Selection [ML ISOs].
So, at the end, I have Equivalent ISO [160], which derives from a Canon analog ISO [200] minus a ML Digital ISO [-0.3]

The new 700D, when I set Highlight Tone Priority [ON], boosts the Canon digital ISO to [+1EV] (whitout the possibility to bring it to 0!) which is absolutely bad, and gives more noise.
Setting ML Digital ISO [-0.3EV] gives the multiplies of 80, but the resulting Equivalent ISO derives from a lower ISO digitally boosted!
So the Equivalent ISO [160] derives from a Canon analog ISO [100] plus a Canon digital ISO [+1EV] minus a ML Digital ISO [-0.3]

This doesn't make sense and just boosts up noise.

Plus, the ISO Selection doesn't exist anymore, so what I think is the camera uses Canon ISOs instead on ML ISOs, and that happens for this reason.

Hope someone could answer
Thanks!

Ciao a tutti dalla Sicilia!