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Anyone aware of a youtube  clip to disassemble a 600d? I have pulled many canon P&s apart but not a dslr.
Alex, it does it even if I dont use the trigger...short the cable release port. I'd hate to open it up and it wasnt a hardware issue alone.
I do appreciate you comments.
Troy

I had a previous problem where I had no menus, this was fixed via a work around hack autoexec file (thanks Alex). I got one session of Bulb exposures before it has now failed. Upon shutter being triggered the count up screen appears but when the trigger or cable is releaseed the shutter continues to  (presumably) stay open and the count continues. No buttons will stop it. I must turn the camera off but then the LED stays on forcing me to remove the battery. This happens regardless on the bulb method used ie ML or Canon.
Since I installed ML to do Bulb this is frustrating.
Thanks

Im no tech unlike the other guys here but it sounds similar to mine. Alex made a replacement autoexec hack that got it going...not able to do Bulb tho.
good luck, I too may have to send it off.
Troy

Replaced the autoexec hack with the original and no good. I must have the hack for the menus etc to display.
600d works ok until I try Canon Bulb or ML bulb (same result) even a 3sec bulb the display counter keeps going. To stop it I need to : turn it off but then the led stays solid until I pull the battery.
(NB same thing happens if I use a cable release so it isnt the trigger)
So the hole idea of using ML for timelapse is out the window at the moment.

Thanks guys
Troy

Ok I'll try that in the morning...simply replace the autoexex yes?

Hello again Alex1
my problem is kind of back. Everything works ok except when I I have the 600d in BULB.Also If I set ML bulb to anything the shutter stays open and the seconds counter keeps going until I remove the battery. Same if I use a cable release. This makes me think it is software not hardware?? Any help would be great Alex.
(So its not really as bad as it was )
NB: do you know of any videos showing a 600d being dismantled to the shutter button? I saw one for a 400d but its a bit different.
Also: I tried the 'pour(eye dropper) alcohol into the battery compartment to flush the shutter button. I think it did help because I now can focus without taking a shot. but its a hair trigger!
Troy

Im the very grateful guy Alex spent all the time with working around my problem. So happy, what a genius! Thanks mate.

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when I turn it on the RED led does a ___ - - - _ series of blinks any help?
also just noticed if I turn AF to M twist the FR and zm then turn AF back on it will refocus but then no more.

@alex1 nah card in or out it behaves the same... turn it on a get a brief wiggle of the AF but then no more AF, only info on the screen is in movie mode (has the ML headings and footers) and LV, all other modes no LCD but like I said when I plug in video goggles I can 'see' the other mode screens but can do anything to them ie no buttons affect them. When I turn off I get the dust cleaning screen.
@Michael: I deleted MAGIC.CFG and tried starting in all modes, no diff.

Is there a nice little tucked away pencil reset to factory button ?
Is there a bootable file that can do a reset?
Thanks guys

I have ML 2.3 on 600d. Its been working fine. Tried to do some T/lapse but it kept doing interval at half press even though I had interval off and the bulb time was...well more than 3min (I didnt set that either.) At this point I still had menus, I eventually pulled the battery. Now the only thing I get on the lcd is in video mode. No menus (ML or Canon). If I use a usb field monitor I can see the exposure/non LV mode screen but cannot alter anything other than shutter speed, no Ap, Q iso etc.
Since I have No menus at all I cannot format the card in-camera. I have copied & pasted the ML from the mac to the cards but no diff (this is happening regardless of which 16GB C10 card I use). AF doesn't work either
Desperate help required.
Thank you
Troy

Yep im after something like this too(mentioned a few posts earlier). My sms is a simple ic555 circuit with relay so not sw programable. Is there any signal outputs generated by the camera after a shot, a mirror lockup etc that i can use to initiate the dolly motor?(instead of a set timer that wiould go out of sync with bramping). I dont have an mx2 or nanomoco. Raspberry Pi might fit into the equation some how but i have too many there projects im learning.

Last night I tried timelapse with Silent pic but walked away not realising it would take shots using the +7 EV gain I had it set to - pink  (doh obvious!) needless to say that was a waste. Today I went to take some pics and even after reverting the display gain to 0 and turning all the bits I can think of to defaults the screen is washed out like its on ISO billion! When I take a shot and playback it plays fine but in LV mode no good. Raw temp is 181???
What have I got set incorrectly??? I really dont like running the screen like this for long.
Thanks

Stupid! but rather than delete so that others may learn.  I had movie > FPS set to 1 instead of 50etc

I will be using a basic shoot move shoot controller but wondering how I sync it with Bulb ramping.
I have been thinking that if the stop delay period pulse could be replaced/triggered by a simple signal from the camera.  This would just leave the move timer acting. What I was thinking is whilst ever the camera is outputting an LCD video signal (ie between shots, the motor can move (within its time set point and stop). As soon as the screen/mirror locks up the motor stops if it has not already. Resets and then video comes on and the motor starts.
This video out signal idea came as a result of trying an external monitor today. Hope someone smart can run with this... or enlighten me of how to do it another way (preferably cheaply

Doesn't answer your Q but you might be able to shed some on mine. I will be using a basic shoot move shoot controller but wondering how I sync it with Bulb ramping.
I have been thinking that if the initial stop delay could be replaced by a simple signal from the camera.  This would just leave the move timer acting. What I was thinking is whilst ever the camera is outputting an LCD video signal the motor can move (withing its time set point and stop). As soon as the screen/mirror locks up the motor stops. Resets and then video comes on and the motor starts.
This video out signal idea cam as a result of test an external monitor today.

No doubt it is something I am doing. I get the Bramp going and after say 16-30 shots it takes 3 calibration shoots and starts a new ramp. (shame I can not post a screen grab -attachment)
So Q1: what am I doing wrong?
Q2: can I gradually change the exposure in Lightroom or FCP eg keyframing?(newby)
Thanks

Try with http://bit.ly/ml-may15 .

Delete - I just noticed the big sticky on how to update...I did exactly this anyway but didnt work, or should I have left it blinking longer (got scared)
I have the same issue on my 600D. I am not familiar with what to do with the autoexec.bin file....Well I know not to simply replace the one on the card cause that didn't work, camera just blinked till I removed the battery.
Is there an instruction on how to do these little updates?
Troy