Messages

Hey a1ex,
With the latest build from April 10th (the one to ignore false warnings), I am still getting a message about the null bug. I have not run into any major issues or soft bricking, but I also do not have a backup or unaffected copy of my ROM from before the 4th. Am I screwed, any solution to this without a clean ROM from before?

Hey guys,

I had a couple of shooting dates and even, as it didn't make problems on the testing, I also got the bad frames problem. Interesting thing is, that it was not only on one frame, but even two frames.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III, EF 28mm f/1.8 USM
1/64 sec, f2.2, ISO 100
1920x490 60.003 fps
Bad frames on different 128 gb Sandisk 160mb/s cards
magiclantern-Nightly.2015Apr06.5D3113

Please I need help, I have more shooting days this week and need to know, if earlier versions were more stable in case of bad frames. Does anybody has experience? I would like to keep firmware 1.1.3 because I don't get contiguous 50p on 1.2.3



https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24873307/weird%20bad%20frame/M16-2120_000012.dng
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24873307/weird%20bad%20frame/M16-2120_000013.dng
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24873307/weird%20bad%20frame/M16-2120_000014.dng
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24873307/weird%20bad%20frame/M16-2120_000015.dng

Is the frame rate in your Canon menus set to 720p60? I've noticed if I have the Canon menu on 1080p24 or 1080p30 while setting ML to 48 or 60fps I get some corrupted frames.

@jordanwalkert What's sup Jordan here are my settings.. 

Canon Menu:  Image Quality: RAW (No Jpeg) not sure if it makes a difference but that's what's working for me. 
                     Auto Lighting Optimizer: OFF
                     Long exp. Noise Reduction: OFF
                     High ISO Speed NR: OFF
                     Highlight Tone Priority: OFF
                     Multiple exposure: Disable
                     HDR Mode: Disable HDR
                     Video Mode: 720p 60fps ALL-I

Magic Lantern: Overlay: Global Draw: On, all modes  (When Global Draw off you get more seconds like 25+ Seconds I was able to get @ full HD)
                                    Spotmeter: On
                                    Histogram: On
                                    Waveform: On
                      Movie:     Raw Video (MLV) 1920x649 aspect ratio 16:9 (In Resolution submenu make sure you have Card Warm-up On, mines is set to 128MB - Extra Hacks ON - Use SRM Job ON
                                                               Files > 4GIB (exFat) On and you can mess around with the rest) 

So far those are all the settings I'm currently using, still tweaking it to see how much more I can get out of the camera.  One more thing before you shoot any Raw videos make sure you format your CF card to ExFAT for longer recordings.  If you have any other questions feel free to ask take care.

Thanks so much for the info! I appreciate it. I guess what confused me is that you said you were getting slow motion at 1920x1080, but in your settings you have your resolution as 1920x649. Are you stretching it in post??

@a1ex Just got my 5D Mark III & tested the latest nightly build running on 1.1.3 all day yesterday and I haven't encountered any pink frames seems to be very stable for both slomotion shots and regular 1080p.  Also one observation I'm getting more than 25 sec recording shooting full 1920x1080 48fps Slomotion, and about 18 sec shooting 60fps MLV format with audio using a Lexar 1066x  64GB card.  Was reading other post and others were just getting 5 sec max.  Thank you for all the developments of the Hacks..

What settings are you changing for the 48fps and 60fps, just the regular "desired fps option"? Are you still setting the Canon menu to 720p60?

I have the latest 5d3 build with the MLV_REC and SND from the August build and it works perfectly.

Does the newest build include the full red silent pictures mode? Anxious to see how that is!

I guess development on the SLR's are done now due to this new fancy schmancy 4k camera they're working on now

Well, there's this: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12523.0
But it's is somewhat limited (1/10 to 15s exposures only) and pretty buggy. It's also not available in nightly builds yet (have to compile ML yourself) for this reason (it's buggy).

Thank you for this! Gosh it would be fantastic if this was more reliable and available. I would be fine even using the 1080p raw dng route, but like I said- can't find a way to kill Liveview while doing it

Hey gang,
I have a series of timelapses that I will be doing in the next month or so, and just wanted to see if there were some recommendations out there on ways that magic lantern can make this task an easier and/or better process than I've done in the past. I have a 5D Mark III running the .123 firmware and the latest available ML Nightly Build (Aug 7).

Normally I would just use an external intervalometer or ML's one in photo mode and I would obviously get full resolution, RAW .CR2 files. That way is great, allows me to set the camera on any mode/setting I want, let it run as long as it needs and may be what I end up doing. However I don't NECESSARILY need full resolution 5K stills for this project and more importantly, I am looking for a way to maybe not use my shutter so much as we are probably talking about 20,000-30,000 images. All of the video I shoot will be from ML's 1080p RAW mode, and this will be a 1080p project so while extra resolution from the timelapses would be great- I would rather sacrifice resolution to save some work on my shutter.

I know you can use the ML RAW module and just set the frame rate down to 1fps or whatever is needed, and I even found out how to change the shutter speed to lower than 1/30th, but the problem with that is the LiveView screen staying on the entire time and eating up the battery, but also making the temperature of the camera very warm. Also I'm not sure yet if you can lock aperture and have it automatically adjust other settings to compensate in that mode.

So does anyone have any ideal TL recommendations for ML to try and save the shutter a little bit? Even if I can only get 1080p resolution, I would still be interested in hearing some tips on this to allow me to shoot very lengthy timelapses without using the normal photo mode route.

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help or point me in the right direction with more information!

get yourself a camera that has this feature or wait....
Will we ever see that full res silent pictures feature in the 5D3.123 build? I'm very interested in this feature as I have some time lapses coming up I need to shoot.

Thank you so much for all of your help!

Will we ever see that full res silent pictures feature in the 5D3.123 build? I'm very interested in this feature as I have some time lapses coming up I need to shoot.

There was mention a little while ago about the ML Team finding a way to squeeze another stop or so of dynamic range out of the camera. Was this feature ever implemented and is there a way to utilize this on 1.2.3? I never heard about it rolling out or see any options to turn it on anywhere.

I use H264 and Raw.
The only thing I do is put off Raw Module and MLV Sound.

Hmm, so your H264 mode is showing up in ML 1.2.3 and doesn't say that the .ini is missing?

Does anyone else have a missing H.264.ini with 1.2.3? Am I supposed to do something to get the H.264 mode back in ML, or is it not part of 1.2.3 yet?

When you full the CF, appears the same message like you haven't format the card as Exfat

Yep. I got that message as well and actually my final clip had an all black corrupted frame every couple of seconds. Have only filled the card up once, so I will try again and see if the final clip is corrupted again, anyone else getting a bad final clip when they fill up their cards? I'm using a Lexar 32gb 1066x card which has had absolutely zero problems so far, so I don't think it was the card.