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I don't have my t2i at home, and my 7D doesn't have bramping yet.
Here's a link to a bunch of grey card jpgs.

15grey.jpg
20grey.jpg
30grey.jpg
40grey.jpg
50grey.jpg
60grey.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2343171/GreyCards.zip
Feel free to give it a shot!

This is an idea I have had for a while. Feel free to test it out.

Create any number of different images with an average brightness. Either make it a flat %grey in PS, or simply shoot different brightness shots during the day.

Choose those as your sample image, then bramp away. You would need to have a good guess as for how far you want to fudge it, but I have faith in you 

Here's a pretty good link explaining this.
http://nofilmschool.com/2012/06/gamma-issues-change-look-dslr-footage-different-players/

Hi, TheCheatOSX. I'm sorry to hear about your night. Did you hear the shutter firing when you checked up on it? When you say it was still running, what do you mean by that?

If AF was on, the mirror would probably have flipped, then it would search for focus and it probably would have not taken a picture. The mirror flipping could have sounded like the shutter was firing. For a multitude of reasons AF should be off for timelapses.

Also, after the shot count gets to 9999 it will make a new folder. Is there any chance that you looked in the old folder, or that your card was full?

I've definitely fired off test shots, configured the intervalometer, and then forgot to turn it on before hitting the trash can button to start the process. Also I've left it on the "select a properly exposed photo" screen when bramping for hours... I find myself to blame far more often than ML.

that would burn out your shutter mechanism is relatively quick order. A better option would be to use the fps override feature. It will bring your res down to 1080 and you will probably need to put a neutral density filter on but it is easier on the camera.

Congrats on hitting 360,000! I think you may already be living on borrowed time

I think for the res alone, shooting stills is a must-have. Have you ever considered getting a cheaper body just for TL? I've thought about this a lot as well. I bought a t2i to save wear on my 7D (and so I could use ML) but I don't know if I would do the same again. Actually, it looks like replacing the shutter on your 5D classic is $200-$400 so that would be the cheapest option, and you wouldn't have to do anythign until it actually fails! Some people are reporting several _million_ actuations with no failures.. Low frame rate video is fun to play with, but it doesn't give you anywhere near the latitude as a sequence of properly exposed raw files, or HDR pairs.

The "180d" part of the preset means that it is trying to stay open for half of the interval time. Since 0.2 fps is the slowest that ML can go, that means that 10 sec is the longest interval that makes sense(5 sec exposure, 5 sec wait). I have no idea what ML tries to do once you change the timers, but it seems like the best it could do is to move towards a 360 degree shutter. Even that would end up with a 10 sec exposure every 10 seconds.

Lastly, with a 30 second exposure and a 60 second interval you would shoot 12*60=720 stills if you did a 12 hour day to night to day sequence. That's 0.225% of the median shutter life from here http://www.olegkikin.com/shutterlife/canon_eos5d.htm

In short, I wouldn't sweat it. Save the FPS for the daytime if you want to save clicks. Use 'em up at night!

I have run into that as well.

I was shooting night time at 0.2fps, and it took a few seconds after hitting record to get up to final brightness. I guess it is annoying, but I'm editing my footage regardless, so I'm not really concerned with it.

I'm on a t2i as well.

Hmmm. Sorry to hear about that.
What were you doing when it wouldn't turn on? Have you taken the battery out and left it like that for a period of time? With some devices there is and internal charge that can remain for a little while after removing the battery.

Has it had any water damage or drops? Can you get it to do anything?

This is kind of a long shot, but I would look carefully at the battery door and the memory card door. On most cameras there is a tiny nub that activates a switch when the door is closed. If that nub were broken then the cam would behave as if it was dead.

I'd also try to use a different battery, if possible.

Good luck, and report back if you discover anything!

Hi a1ex,  I have bramp_parse_log.py installed as well as its dependencies. I'm embarrassed to admit it, but I don't know how to properly pass an image file into it!

The best I can get is this.

ImportError: dlopen(/Library/Python/2.7/site-packages/numpy-1.8.0.dev_4600b2f_20130131-py2.7-macosx-10.8-intel.egg/numpy/core/multiarray.so, 2): no suitable image found.  Did find:
   /Library/Python/2.7/site-packages/numpy-1.8.0.dev_4600b2f_20130131-py2.7-macosx-10.8-intel.egg/numpy/core/multiarray.so: mach-o, but wrong architecture

Thank you.
FWIW I got your other deflickering script installed and running under wine. I've only used it once, but it completed its batch.

I spend all day editing video and color correcting footage. When I go home and shoot something non commercial, 90% of the time I shoot it in anything other than technicolor. Unless I'm getting paid to ingest and color it I prefer to set color in camera.

I think a lot of amateurs get lost in the discussion of latitude and forget about the added time required to make the footage look good again.

If that gps intervalometer works like I expect it to, then the effect is old before it has been invented. We've all seen timelapses from cars before. It's done often because it's easy, but it's almost always ugly.

That being said, I have thought about buying it before, for non-ml cameras.

Hi, I'm really excited to see that bulb ramping has gotten a lot of dev attention in the beta release. Is there any documentation I can read to learn more about the new implementation? I'm looking forward to working with this a lot.

It's on the "features that are NOT possible - do not request them" thread
This feature seems to be a lost cause.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=950.0

My thoughts on lenses are to buy old quality lenses if price is an issue, and buy new quality lenses if it isn't.

If you don't care about autofocus then you can get a wide variety of manual lenses and adapters to use them on your t2i. Old nikon glass can be bought at garage sale prices and used pretty comfortably provided you want to focus manually and adjust iris on the lens body. For people who primarily shoot video these can be great choices. The one downside (if you can call it that) is that they are generally all metal so they are heavier.

If you want autofocus (and I'm not blaming you) go ahead and buy something nice. Skip the entry level lenses with the exception of the 50mm, solely because it is so $cheap that it is actually a good deal. Borrow friends lenses or rent until you have a lens you are comfortable dropping $500+ And don't cheap out on crop lenses if you plan on photography being a lifelong hobby. It may feel weird buying a lens that costs more than your body, but your body will halve in price in the next two years but the lens will take much longer.