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You absolutelt have to tell me how you graded this and what LUT you used

Hello Folks,

First of all i wanna thank the guys behind Magic Lantern enable RAW recording, it opened my eyes, and i brought it with me to vacation, here is the result :

I think this is the best way to do it :

Tiff 16 bit to prores 4444 (windows) = 12bit footage

Oh i think i kind of figured it out, Export 10bit DPX ( which is losless ) encode those DPX files into ProRes HQ 422 files?  encode with a prores tool for windows:)

Thanks for helping me so much man,

I am only using it for Vimeo really ( vimeo + account ) but i hate having gamma shifts,color shifts so i am going to try converting them and see how i like it and it is also going to be my last project that i am going to be rendering on windows, i will buy a second ssd and do the rendering on mac and editing on windows i guess.

thanks alot man

Would image quality degrade (too much) if i would convert 16 bit tiffs to prores?

Thank you very much,

right now i have this setup for my PC

- i7 2600k Overclocked to 4.8 Ghz (stable)
- Asus P8Z68 motherboard
- Radeon HD 6950
- 32GB RAM

i will see if i can get an extra SSD so i can dual boot this thing. For some reason DNxHD makes my footage a little bit more brighter and seemed to give it a green tint as well, also its not very HQ.
P.S my footage will be uploaded to vimeo+ account so i dont know how important image quality actually needs to be to be noticeable.

Hello everyone,

i have been trying to figure this one out for a while now, and it now comes down to the last few steps of post production and i want to bassicly render my RAW footage from davinci resolve into prores files on a windows machine, is this possible because i have been trying to figure this one out for weeks now.


P.S person that will fix my problem will be donated 10 dollars via paypal
P.S i know DNxHD is a option but i heard proress (12 bit vs 10 bit dnxhd) i waayy better when it comes down to colors

Thanks alot

alles behalve een laptop als je wilt gaan werken met RAW je krijgt veel spijt ( spreek uit eigen ervaring )

if this is not going to work, do you guys know any lens that has insane flaring?

Nooooooo why guess i am going to take all the elements out then lol

Ahh i see, now i need to know if the anti flare coating is only on the front element, do you happen to know if there are any coatings inside that i need to get rid of?

It is going to be used for video this a video that show's where i am looking for. i have bought a bunch of canon FD lenses all of them are very fast lenses (1.8 to 2.8 primes, 28,35,50,85,135 cost me 80 bucks, now i need to get the coating off )


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnbBfLE3VBE

Hello guys,

This may sound strange but i love when a lens makes alot of flares and light streaks, this could be done by having a uncoated lens... unfortunatly these lenses are very very expensive. Now my question is, is it possible to remove the coating yourself?

Thanks

My company actually thought of donating him 3000 USD for the work that he has done, it's obviously he's own decision whetever he would wanna leave or not. But it would be a sad day when that happends

No A1ex you cannot leave! We want 4k RAW video right now! Jut kidding ... A1ex can do whatever he wants ihmo i mean the dude changed the game for real

Alright thanks mate sorry for asking so much, guess everyone started out as a newbie also how many stops of DR can the 5D III capture in raw mode? and how much in h264 + audionut i sent you a PM

Understood! So once overexposed based on raw feedback, you cant get it back:)

Thank you sir! can i also ask you, once overexposed is possible to still get data back if yes, up to how many stops ?

Wow thank you so much again,

One more question and than i think im done with asking . i feel like the the overexposure zebra's isnt as accurate, reason is, when i clip 90% i can get that info back with BMD Film .
Oh and btw, its true film stock luts indeed almost look the same

A1ex, what have you been doing, that actually made me laugh.

here is a video done with BMD film and a kodak film lut :

i always had to add up to 2 points on exposure in these clips

Dyfid,

Thank you contributing your time and effort into helping me so much, i really appreaciate this (the guys over at EOSHD dont even bother helping you)

Reason why i am using BMD Film is beceause i wanna get rid of the ''video'' look and try to emulate a film stock, Kodak's legendary Vision3 500T 5219 to be exact, and and rec709 simply is to ''baked'' for me. so to my understanding i really only should worry about getting it right IN camera since i can get that information back after apply BMD Film because it simply compresses the highlights and shadows right?

I use BMD film to grade with ImpulZ LUT's from Visioncolor and also i think i get it! RAW Zebra's will come up with if am underexposed and those zebra's are based off RAW feedback right :D? thank you guys so much.

i swear i have told my mates that if i am ever going to make some big cash with movies i will give the main devs some good money man

Thank you for your comment,

Yes indeed know that but the thing is i am afraid that it will introduce more noise then by just exposing ''right''. because diffrent picture style's give diffrent liveview feedback, some clip faster than t he other.