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Messages - mgrant

#1
But when you take a timelapse using silent shutter, it's in liveview, isn't it?  Is the fact that an image is being recorded resetting this 30min timeout?  Could something like this be used to get around this timeout?
#2
Is it possible to set up motion detection to take multiple shots over a long period of time, say all night?  For example to use the camera as a sort of security camera or to catch animal shots when you don't know when the animal will visit the scene.
#3
I'm not 100% sure but it seems to take into account the Canon metering mode (as in spot metering). 

In my experimentation by setting the camera on a tripod and changing only the metering mode (In my 7D I have: Center-weighted, Evaluative, Partial, and Spot metering), I saw a consistent change in the numbers that this module choose. 

The BV Brightness Value that is used in the module seems to be the brightness of the scene as calculated by the Canon firmware.  Can anyone else confirm this?
#4
I don't see what cyan line you're referring to.  I did find in Overlay -> Spot Meter, there is Spotmeter Unit which I can set to RAW (EV).  Is this the BV value based on the spot metering (extreme center point of scene)?

What do you think about my other comments about using the wheel to offset the BV that you use to calculate the aperture, shutter &iso?
#5
I'm playing with this module on a 7D.  I'm using the version that made it into tragiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2014Jan14.7D203.

Couple of things I noticed:

1) With the camera in Manual mode, the wheel on the back seems to alter the aperture as if this is Av mode while the module sets the shutter speed and ISO. 

2) If I put the camera in Av mode, the module only alters the shutter.  NOT THE ISO.

3) If I put the camera in Tv mode, the module only alters the aperture.  NOT THE ISO.

I wasn't expecting that about the ISO in 2 and 3.

In my mind, the wheel should adjust an offset of the BV.  It should let me push the scene darker or lighter.  For instance, if I were shooting in snow, I want to tell the camera that the scene is, in fact, very bright and hence to push the scene lighter (as if a lower BV).  If you use only the straight BV, it seems like you are always going to go towards a scene that is grey.  If you keep an internal variable and if the wheel is rotated say to the left, you increase the number in this variable and to the right you decrease it, then, you add this variable to the BV before setting based on the curves, shouldn't this do what I'm talking about?

I see talk above about using the main dial for shutter/aperture but I don't think I'd do this.  I'd use the dial near the trigger button for the shutter/aperture in Av/Tv mode only and use the main wheel on the back of the camera like I said above.

However, in Av and Tv mode, I do see the wheel on the back of the camera having some effect.  I can't tell if the Canon part of the firmware is taking that into account or if it's the module or both, but I do still see the module automatically trying to set the exposure or aperture.  Whatever is happening, it seems to almost be doing the right thing in those semi-automatic modes.

Where can I see the current BV of the scene that the camera is measuring?  I see some screen shots with the BV at the top of the info screen but I don't see that on m 7D when press the info button.  Is there some feature I need to enable to get that to appear somewhere?

#6
Paul,

Did you enable these modules in the modules menu?  You need to enable them first then power cycle the camera to get it to reboot and load them.

Michael
#7
I tried a timelapse today on my 7D.  I was using the silent shutter feature (taking images in live mode) using the power saving feature to turn off the display inbetween snaps.  I am using Auto ETTR.  One image every 10 seconds. 

Out of 500 images, 4 images came out like this:

http://grant.org/mgrant/pub_images/bad-image-example.jpg

Can anyone shed any light on what's going on here?
#8
I extracted the info in the forum threads and added documentation on Auto ETTR to the dokuwiki:

http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/ettr

Feedback welcome!
#9
I'm having trouble where the processed images is actually darker.  These were taken at 100/3200:

interlaced image:


cr2hdr processed image:


C:\Users\Michael\Pictures\2013\2013-12-27>cr2hdr DUAL3071.CR2
cr2hdr: a post processing tool for Dual ISO images

Last update: 2f4e2df on 2013-12-02 17:45:36 UTC by alex:
cr2hdr: fix DNG compression under Windows

Active options:
--amaze-edge    : use a temporary demosaic step (AMaZE) followed by edge-directe
d interpolation (default)
--cs2x2         : apply 2x2 chroma smoothing in noisy and aliased areas (default
)

Input file      : DUAL3071.CR2
Camera          : Canon EOS 7D
Full size       : 5360 x 3516
Active area     : 5202 x 3465
White level     : 12500
Black borders   : 158 left, 51 top
Black level     : 1955
ISO pattern     : dBBd GBRG
Noise levels    : 5.47 33.98 39.40 5.28 (14-bit)
ISO difference  : 5.09 EV (3402)
Black delta     : 9.28
Dynamic range   : 10.96 (+) 8.06 => 13.15 EV (in theory)
Looking for hot/cold pixels...
Hot pixels      : 7
Cold pixels     : 27592
AMaZE interpolation ...
Amaze took 5.49 s
Edge-directed interpolation...
Semi-overexposed: 6.46%
Deep shadows    : 90.22%
Horizontal stripe fix...
Full-res reconstruction...
ISO overlap     : 3.0 EV (approx)
Half-res blending...
Chroma smoothing...
Building alias map...
Filtering alias map...
Smoothing alias map...
Final blending...
Noise level     : 3.72 (16-bit), ideally 3.68
Dynamic range   : 13.47 EV (cooked)
Black adjust    : 0
Output file     : DUAL3071.DNG
    1 image files updated


The raw file is here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1700402/DUAL3071.CR2

What are you all doing to get these amazing images?  I can brighten up the shadow in lightroom but it gets really grainy.  I feel I am doing something wrong.
#10
I read through quite a bit of this thread which is 67 pages as of my writing.  Is the version of cr2hdr linked from the first post the most current/recommended version to use?  Please could you (a1ex) update the first post if so or if not or add links to the other useful versions?  Thanks.

Perhaps a stupid question... Will it be possible at some point to do this post processing in the camera?  Or is that just not technically feasible?

I use lightroom.  Is there an easy way to incorporate this cr2hdr step into a workflow without having to go to the command line?

Thanks!