Messages

 Hey ML Guys and Gals!
Apologies in advance if this has been addressed - I searched but couldn't find anything addressing this exact question
in the top results.

I am trying to see if there is a way to use scope overlays while in 5x or 10x zoom mode.
Currently when I use the zoom feature, all of my overlays vanish.
The reason for this, in my case, is to see the vectorscope while zoomed in on a gray card (so that it fills the whole frame) without having to move the camera position closer. Moving the gray card closer won't work because I need to take the measurement in the light the subject will be in. Hope this makes sense? If this is simply not possible, has anyone come up with another way to get the measurement?

I'm using a Canon 6D, 1.1.6 firmware, 9/06/16 ML Build

Any and all info would be appreciated.
Thanks for your time!
- Daniel

Hi Alex,
Just want to say I tried the latest May 16th, 2016 build today, and that solved the problem I
had described above. I am once again happily updated to the most current build.
Thanks for all the time and attention you devote to ML!
Best,
-Daniel

Reproduced; all cameras have this bug, but maybe arrow shortcuts are not that widely used?

Can't speak for others, but personally this is the exclusive way I've been changing iso and kelvin values! 
For now I will stick with the older build to keep this ability. Just my two cents...
Best,
-Daniel

@RTLdan: which is the last good nightly build, regarding your issue?

Hi Alex!
Thanks for your reply. I've had a chance to re-test the issue I was experiencing.
What is happening for me on the May 7th, 2016 build is that pressing the d-pad in any direction
has no effect on kelvin or iso when that menu overlay is pulled up. The d-pad does change the position of the spot meter overlay, however. In fact, if spotmeter is enabled, and also the kelvin/iso overlay is pulled up, the d-pad still moves the spotmeter.

I'm not sure what the most recent working build is, but the last working build I had on another card was Feb 13th, 2016.

Thanks for your help, and all the work you do for this project!
-Daniel

Hi ML 6D Users!
I updated ML on my 6D to the latest build (May 7th) yesterday, and I encountered a problem where I was
unable to change iso/kelvin using the d-pad, and also unable to hide the iso/kelvin overlay using the toggle button.
I was on a shoot, so I quickly reverted to an older build that worked fine.

Has anybody else encountered this issue? I haven't had time to go back and do a more thorough test, but I wanted to see if there
are any other reports?

Thanks!
-Daniel

Hi Paul!
If I understand you correctly, here is what I do:

- From the current memory card with all of my settings, I copy the "Magic.CFG" file. It's located in ML -> Settings -> Magic.CFG
- I paste the "Magic.CFG file into the settings folder for the unzipped new build, which is named identically  (ML -> Settings -> Magic CFG)
- I delete the whole ML folder and autoexec.bat from the memory card
- I paste the new build's ML folder and autoexec.bat onto the memory card

Voila! All my settings from the older build are now in the new build.
A word of warning though -- the new build may or may not be identical to the old builds in every possible way.
ALWAYS double check that the settings are right before shooting.

Hope this helps!
Best,
-Daniel

While we are musing on the features that haven't really been exploited by Canon or Nikon, I'm still looking for the right camera at the right price with 4:2:2 10bit color as a standard feature (not hacked or HDMI out). I love my 6D, but the resolution isn't my biggest hurdle. I just don't love the color information available when shooting video. It might be a jump to Sony or even BMD at some point for me.
Best,
-Daniel

Hello ML Users and Devs!
I was recently taking pictures on my Canon 6D (1.1.3 firmware, ML nightly from end of April/Early March 2015)
and received the err06 message. At first I thought it was just something random, so I popped out the battery, popped it back in, and it seemed to work fine. But eventually the message came back. At last, it wouldn't go away and I was essentially locked out of the camera. Finally I looked up the error code -- Err 06 is Sensor Cleaning Malfunction. Uh Oh. I tried different batteries. I tried "resetting" the camera by having the battery removed for a long time -- I can't access the clock battery, however, without opening up the body, which I'm not inclined to do. I read a tip online about booting into movie mode, then disabling the automatic sensor cleaning to at least get the camera into a usable state again. That worked ok, but of course now I am nervous about what is actually wrong with my camera.

My camera is out of warranty but only has approximately 12k actuations on it, and has been cared for like a baby.
What causes an Err06? Can it be repaired at home? How much has Canon been known to charge to fix it? And finally, am I risking damage to the camera if I take photos in the meantime with it disabled?

Thanks for your help in advance!
Best,
-Daniel

* You're mistaken, 1.1.6 contains a critical fix (if you're hurt by the bug) for tracking with all af pts as lower fw versions tended to ignore the center point. I'm a victim of this absolutely hilarious and annoying behavior, that's why I need to update.

* As far as I've read the posts on CR discussing Canon's battery game, only old or non-chipped batteries are sanctioned with an annoying message - but if you've got a newer clone battery with a chip it should still work. Actually the battery charger is more likely to refuse 3rd party batteries than the camera atm.

Ahh, I see. I should have clarified that for me personally, I've never experienced an AF problem because I'm shooting all manual glass anyway. I can see why you might want the af point bug fixed.
And as for the batteries, I had not tested this problem myself, but remember reading a few different people who had reported 3rd party batteries no longer working. This is actually good news to hear, as most of my batteries are not Canon OEM and I may at some point update if ML is working on 116.

Still, I think what I was getting at is there may be a few other 6D owners out here, like me, who haven't really seen a big reason to switch to 116, but who are following the boards and testing new builds -- just not necessarily the 116 ones at this point. So keep up the good work!

Best,
-Daniel

> The port is working fine here, but there's about no feedback from testers so far. :-(

Well, yeah, that's ML development for you - esp. with a camera with an incomplete port and "blindly" maintained there won't be a lot of folks here using it. But now that beep works I'll switch, but not in the next few days but more like few weeks.

Just want to throw my .02 in on this point as a 6D ML user --
Basically, I've not seen any real reason to upgrade to 116,  so even less reason to have been paying attention to ML's 116 update. If I'm not mistaken the 6D gains almost nothing from 116, but loses 3rd party battery support, which is my main resistance to updating. As far as 6D users interested in using and testing ML, we are out here, maybe just not all of us  are ready to switch to 116 and give up our 3rd party batteries. I'd love to be mistaken on the battery issue.

Best,
-Daniel

3. 6D has ALL I mode, use it.

Am I mistaken in thinking that All-I on the 6D was shown to have very little advantage other than bloated file size?
I had read the wonders of All-I when I first bought my camera, but somewhere along the line I came to understand IPB was actually the more sensible choice for it's overall cost/performance ratio. Maybe I was misinformed somewhere along the way...
Would love to be corrected if someone had a strong case for All-I on the 6D that I haven't heard.

p.s.
The disappearing menu is a common bug, i't there to stay and we LOVE it!

Okay, I may be taking crazy pills, but there was a build right before A1ex took his break from ML dev (maybe in Sept?)
and I SWEAR that the menu was persistent, no longer disappearing after a few seconds. However, it is indeed back to it's usual self on my 6D after updating from the circa fall 2014 build to a January 2015 build. Am I going crazy? Do I need to try to find this old build and test for sanity, or did someone else experience this?

Cheers!
-Daniel

I have to admit, when I saw the Alexa Mini press release on No Film School, I thought maybe they were releasing something
in the price range of a RED Scarlett...so seeing the $40k price tag made me laugh.
Arri does a lot right. Their pricing model however, in my opinion seems a bit antiquated. But then again, people will pay for it.
Blackmagic Design might not have everything together as much as I would like, but I love Grant Petty's philosophy on making
cinema tools accessible. Hopefully they will tighten up some of their camera troubles and make it an excellent option in the sub $5k range.

Really, the most promising camera to me right now is the in-dev Axiom. Reasonable price. Modular. Open source. Can't wait to see a production model in the coming future.

Audionut,
Thank you. Good to know!
-Daniel

This is a little off topic, and I have not used the search function, so hopefully this has not been asked to death...but is there a way to get 1.5x zoom instead of 3,5,and 10x?

3x and up lose too much FOV for my tastes, but 1.5x would approximate aps-c/35mm academy.
This might be a good compromise zoom level for raw video.

Thoughts?
Thanks!
Daniel

 
(Sorry for the last post...can you tell I'm on the internet while under the influence of boredom?)
-Daniel

no changelog since 2014-09-11 what does it mean?

That the last build available was on that day, there have been no changes to Magic Lantern, for your camera, since then. Patience...

I'm afraid it's much more serious than that. Look at the date. 9/11. The reason there is no more recent build is because of terrorism! Makes you wonder if the real reason Alex has been less active is because he was captured by ISIS...

Hi Paisley,
I have an August build and was looking at updating to latest build.
Where are you finding the noise at high ISO's? Photo mode? Standard video mode? RAW video mode?
Thanks,
-Daniel

[make it]

Welcome to the forum, Jedy...
This question gets asked constantly on this forum.

Magic Lantern is experimental, third party software. There are very few permanent problems that have ever been reported with a camera that was caused by ML.
There are also NO GUARANTEES. Try it at your own risk.
And as far as stability, it's about as stable as you could ever hope for a completely free, community based project -- ie, try it and see. If you have trouble, let the devs know so they can make it [/i] stable. I have had absolutely no problems with ML on my 6D. I rely on it. Without it, my 6D is not worth what I paid for it. And ML is getting better all the time.

So, before the more jaded members of the forum say this less politely...please take the time to read what's available on these boards. You will learn a whole lot. It might even just answer most of your questions.

Best,
-Daniel

Coming from the video side of things, I too had been using the waveform monitor almost exclusively while shooting h.264... and the habit carried over into taking photos with RAW. I guess I need to retrain myself.

I've been experimenting lately with using the spotmeter to expose a subjects skin (caucasian skin) at between 50% and 70%. This seems to provide a decently exposed image for me -- although it only takes into account the brightest spot of the subject, of course.

Great info!
Some of these tools are very common for experienced users, but this is the kind of info that would have helped a lot when I was first learning how to read the meters!

Is it safe to assume that since it is not listed as a RAW metering tool in this post, that the waveform monitor is jpeg based?

Thanks!
-Daniel

Thanks Levas!
Since I bought the camera for video and have manual glass, I've been keeping all of the extra stuff off. No CA correction, peripheral illumination correction, no HTP, no high ISO noise reduction, etc...

The camera responds exactly as I want it to when not using live view. It's only when shooting with live view that my shutter recovery time is slow (with the exception of continuous drive mode, which is not what I'm after).

The only thing I can think that I haven't tried is the Raw + jpeg.  I'll experiment with that and see what happens.

Thanks!
-Daniel

Well, after doing a little exploration, I have figured out part of the equation.
I can take pictures without lag if I do not use live view. Even with image review turned off, it seems to take the camera a bit of time to get back up and running in live view before it can take another photo.
This is disappointing for a manual lens shooter like me, because I rely on live view and and magic lantern to make sure my shots are in focus...I simply wanted to be able to snap off a couple pictures without the delay. It looks like I'm going to have to use the viewfinder and settle for less finely focused shots in these situations, unless there is some developments with taking (and being able to review) live view shots without shutter actuation. I remember reading that there was progress on that a while ago...
Thanks!
-Daniel

Hello everyone!
I bought my 6D for my interest in making videos, but have since found a lot of enjoyment from the photo side of things.
There is one thing, however, that I'm wondering about -- the shutter lag.
When I take a photo, the 6D seems to take approx 1.5-2 seconds before I am able to take another picture.
I have disabled image review, so it just waits on a black screen before it can go again.
I could put the camera in continuous drive mode, but I'm not looking to take 4.5fps. More like one every second or so.
I would just like to know if I'm doing something wrong or if there is some way to increase the recovery speed of the shutter so that I can click off 2 or 3 shots in a row if something special is happening... ie, birthday gatherings with changing facial expressions, etc...

I am using old vintage primes that are fully manual.
Magic Lantern is installed (Aug 08. build).
60Mbs Sandisk Extreme card.
Raw + small jpg.

Thanks!
-Daniel

Hi all!
I've read through this entire thread once before...but I'm going to risk asking a possibly obvious question instead of
rereading all 88 pages.

I took a bunch of photos tonight. About half were dual iso, the other half were taken normally. I forgot to make a new folder when I was taking the dual iso ones, and I switched dual iso on and off quite a bit to do comparisons. Is there a way to easily identify which are which? I just pulled up the card in Canon DPP and I don't see the interlacing!?

Thanks again, and sorry if this question was addressed (multiple times) before.
-Daniel

Ok, ok, so maybe I was a little lazy last night after shooting and I didn't search hard enough. Did another google search today and came up with a reference to a dual iso tag that should be in the exif data. That sounds promising. Only problem is, using a photo that I'm almost positive I took as dual iso, I cannot see this tag using either Canon DPP or the command line exiftool.
Any ideas on where to look for the dual iso exif tag, and/or, a nice gui based windows exif viewer?

Thanks!
-Daniel

Hi all!
I've read through this entire thread once before...but I'm going to risk asking a possibly obvious question instead of
rereading all 88 pages.

I took a bunch of photos tonight. About half were dual iso, the other half were taken normally. I forgot to make a new folder when I was taking the dual iso ones, and I switched dual iso on and off quite a bit to do comparisons. Is there a way to easily identify which are which? I just pulled up the card in Canon DPP and I don't see the interlacing!?

Thanks again, and sorry if this question was addressed (multiple times) before.
-Daniel