@schedonnardus You don't need to make your SD card bootable via your PC. I just went through this issue for a second SD card for my camera and all you need to do is extract the nightly (or whatever build of ML you want) to the SD card and run the cameras firmware upgrade. The ML install will make the SD card bootable for you.
I must be misunderstanding focus stacking. I thought it took several shots at progressive focus distances to allow you to stack them in Photoshop etc. to have for example a macro image where the whole object was in focus because normally your depth of field is so short. The sample image didn't seem to demonstrate that.
Except all your eggs are in one basket. Aside from that, make sure you consider the read/write speeds of the card as not all class 10 cards anything near equal. I use Sandisk Extreme Pro 32GB which are 95MB/s. Using a half decent card reader on a USB3 port I get read speeds around 75MB/s sustained. Bought a second one recently.
So am I. My question still stands as that's not a significantly valid reason. That's just saying mine is bigger than yours. Obviously you can fit more on a 128GB card but for the reasons I stated, it doesn't seem justified or sensible. I'd like to hear from real experience why 32 or 64GB wasn't cutting the mustard for someone. If we have real reasons we can all make informed decisions.
I'm curious as to why people want to use 128GB cards at all. I use 2 x 32GB Sandisk Extreme Pro 95MB/s and they each hold more than I can shoot even using battery grip with dual batteries. 128GB is a hell of a lot to lose on one card if things go wrong and you pay a lot more for the privilege of having one. 2 cards also gives a backup if one does go bad. Anyway, just asking?
Hi avramidis3d, from what I've read there are many sources of flicker and one of them is inconsistencies in the physical movement of the the aperture blades in your lens because each time your camera takes a photo it goes from fully open to whatever aperture you've set. There are also changes in lighting that might cause flicker etc. etc. I've started using LRTimelapse software to deflicker and it's been the only way I've managed to create a half decent timelapse no matter what I did when shooting. The free version lets you process up to 400 images in a single set. It's easy to use but it is designed to have Lightroom in the workflow. The main function is to smooth out your exposures to eliminate (significantly deminish) flicker.
Observations with nightly build version magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep21.650D104
Intervalometer - when set to less than 3 seconds interval, some inconsistency with timing occurs and gets worse as interval set to 2 or 1 seconds. Am using a Sandisk 32GB Extreme Pro 95MB/s card so don't believe it has anything to do with write speed of the card. Shutter set much faster than interval. RAW format. No lens corrections, no noise reduction.
Image review - with earlier build ML_N_06.09.2013 and histogram enabled, first push of play button would show image and subsequent push would show Zebras. With this build the more standard function of the play button appears to have been restored so second push turns off image review. How then is it possible to see Zebras in image review as this was very handy feature. I don't find using info button to bring up histogram with blinkies very effective as image size so small. Was far better in full screen mode.