Messages

grrr.

I wanted to do some benchmarks of raw video for raffal92, using the August 8 nightly, but the mysterious behavior noted in the subject line has reared its ugly head:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12973.0

If anyone can help, I'd be most obliged.


thanks,

Hal

Hi all, i hope you enjoyed my little work... This is the workflow i used: 60D RAW MLV 1280 2.35:1AR 24fps almost 900 frames SANDISK 32gb 95mbs - Tamron 17-50 2.8 VC - MLViewer (MLV to DNG) - Davinci RESOLVE Debayering, Denoising (DNG to DPX) - Adobe AE, Adobe Premiere ( compositing and editing - XML to next step) - DAVINCI RESOLVE Color Grading (DPX to MOV YUV 10b) - Premiere for Final EXPORT...

In using a ml april release, what is SRM memory? im not  up to date with ml releases

Thanks, Raffaele!

<edit>

err, apologies, this was supposed to be in the 60D Raw thread,
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5653.1275
but somehow it was posted generally. Might as well leave it here, now that it's up.

</edit>

hi folks,

This has happened to me before in earlier nightlies, and I can't remember how I solved it, if it was actually me that got it to work, or the RandomGods :Z

After setting just the MLV and file manager modules to load, upon restart, the modules tab has gone missing, although the file manager still seems to work.

Raw video isn't available under the video tab, and deleting

magic.cfg
file_man.en
mlv_play.en
mlv_rec.en
mlv_snd.en

doesn't bring the modules menu back.

Reformatting in-camera (keep ML) didn't help, nor did reformatting as Ex-FAT on Mac, reloading the ML goodies, and making sure the card was bootable with MacBoot.

Anyone have experience with this/ideas?

Many thanks

I'm recording RAW at 6 fps or slower, at the highest resolution possible, which for the 60D is 1728x1152.

Frankly, it's gorgeous.

Here's a comparison of a section of a video that I shot both RAW, and high-bitrate H.264:



Please ignore the colour saturation (I shot the H.264 flat, for more grade-ability), but check the sharpness (!).

Same lens, same everything, minutes apart.

So far I have been re-starting the capture every half hour, but will soon be using a Pclix ( http://pclix.com ) to do so automatically.

hi all,

Thanks dmilligan, dubarry, and a1ex for the latest nightlies.

One of these recent updates has solved a longstanding bug for me, in which the Magic Zoom inset would blink erratically while recording, rendering it useless for manual focusing on the fly.

While filming H.264 at events at which I need to tweak focus manually, I've had to use the old v 2.3 stable release, since every nightly I've used prior to this month, has exibited this uselessifying of MagicZoom, one of ML's killer features, for me.

Thanks to whoever tweaked the GlobalDraw code, or whatever it was that makes it possible for me to use recent nightlies, all the time

Beautiful work, Raffaele, and by writer/actor Nicola, too.

Can you tell us a bit about the resolution/shot length you used, and your post processing?

many thanks

Saw this in the RAWMagic thread. Looks like it could be a solution, if it could be implemented in one of the raw converter tools

"I have a suggestion, which may or may not be a good idea!

It concerns a possible fix for putting the CDNG's through ACR, which sometimes causes exposure variances, even with using Process 2010 in ACR. It seems that ACR needs the lightest and darkest points in the frame to be constant, otherwise any highlight or shadow recovery causes the exposure shifts.

If RawMagic could add another 2 lines to the image, say a pure white one at the top and a pure black one at the bottom, this would fool ACR into treating the high and low point of all the frames as the same (because they would be the same!)"

^^ This sounds promising - has anyone tried this? ^^

.

To the matter of ACR : Is it possible that there may be some settings stored within the DNG that cause or exacerbate the flickering problem?

I haven't experienced the problem yet; most of my scenes are pretty consistently lit.

The one scene I recall having panned across widely differing lighting, I made extensive ACR settings on significant frames , then hand-tweened the .xmp files between them, as "developing" transitions.

For what it's worth, I bulk-lock the newly-minted DNG files in the Mac Finder Get Info when they come out of raw2dng, so that development settings (process 2012) are stored only in the XMP sidecar files.

[... and audio recording with RAW video is not available yet.]

Thanks, RenatoPhoto: this is a boon, as I use this thread to familiarize folks with shooting raw

I may be mistaken, but it seems that there is a typo/series of typos in the first post:

<snip>
5D3 is best and working very good.  Continuous recording at 1920x1080 up to 29.97 fps  (Bootflag cannot be undone, this increases wake up time from 0.2 to 2 sec)
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7125.0
5D2 work in progress, continuous recording at 1880x940 at 24p or 1600x900 at 29.97 fps
7D work in progress, continuous 1728x972 24p.
6D work in progress, continuous recording at1840x460 at 24 fps
60D work in progress, continuous recording at 1584x1058 at 24fps  <-- This is max resolution, not continuous
50D work in progress, continuous recording at 1584x1058 at 24fps
700D (T5i) work in progress, continuous recording 1280x720 24 fps.
650D (T4i) work in progress, continuous recording 1280x720 24 fps.
600D (T3i) work in progress, continuous recording 950x540 24 fps.
500D (T2i) work in progress, continuous recording 950x540? 24 fps.
550 & 550D work in progress, continuous recording 950x540 24 fps.
EOSM making progress 1280x720 at 24 fps.

Note: ... and audio recording with RAW video is not available yet.

<snip>

For what it's worth, in raw on the 60D, I film 1280x536, which is a fairly standard widescreen aspect ration of 2.39:1.

With the big buffer on this camera, I get about 35 seconds filming time per take. This certainly would be restrictive in many uses, but I find that it's quite manageable for narrative films.

https://startpage.com/do/search?q=average+shot+length+feature+films

Like many things in life, the "restrictions" imposed by Magic Lantern have actually opened opportunities for me, as beginning to use ML raw was the start of my shooting in real cinematic widescreen form: until then, I had been composing and filming in 16:9 "video" aspect ratio.

----------------

Thanks again RenatoPhoto for starting this primer

When selecting your RAW recording size, look at the bottom of your screen.

ML will tell you the data rate of the *frame rate and pixel dimensions you've selected. Anything over 20 MB/s is faster than the 60D can write to the card, and will cause recording to stop when the camera's buffer is full.

You can maximize the size of buffer available to ML RAW by going into the Canon menu, and setting stills quality to the smallest JPG. Also set Auto Power Off to OFF.

Too, for most stability while shooting RAW, once you have made all the settings you need for your scene, turn off Global Draw.


*Related to this is that you can film larger pixel dimensions at lower frame rates. I sometimes shoot timelapse at maximum possible resolution, at up to 7 frames per second, which still generates less than 20 MB/s to write to card.

It also means that many of us (as you seem to as well) have begun using wider aspect ratios such as 2.39:1, common in feature films... something we might not have explored, without the limitation of 20 MB/s.

We also plan our takes better, so that we can capture what we need in the 30 seconds or so we have available to us in RAW. That's longer than many scenes we see in finished films: it forces us to be organized!

There's no just-letting-the-camera-run-for-minutes-on-end, with 60D raw.


Finally, once you've finished filming, be sure in the Canon menu to set stills quality and Auto Power Off back to your preferred settings! You wouldn't be the first ML user to take a bunch of tiny JPGs of something important, or to have your battery die because you were depending on the camera to shut itself off

Hi everybody,
I'm starting to record in RAW with these settings:

Video Format from  menù Canon: 1280*720 50p
Video Format from menù ML: Raw 1280*514
CBR 1.x (default)

Scan Disk extreme Pro 957MB/s

unfortunately rec stops after few second (7...9 sec) , the camera icon in upper right corner becomes from yellow to red and than stops...
What is wrong?
Help please. 

Thanks, toog - that's exactly what I was looking to find out: do I need to figure out how to use raw2cdng on a Mac (it's Windows-only, I understand?)

If I can use the latest, free, Resolve Lite on regular DNGs, that's super

I've stopped using it since Resolve was updated with normal dng support

That's cool, Spider.

When I saw the first few frames, I thought, "what a mess of hot pixels!", but on watching it play, I love the way the clouds move to reveal the starscape.

I really enjoy timelapse film making, and Magic Lantern makes beautiful, raw-quality, full-resolution films possible on even the most basic cameras - without racking up the wear and tear of thousands of mechanical shutter cycles.

I made something new, but I should compare the output from LR with and without exifs.
<youtube>

Great resource for our Italian-speaking Magicians

It has been written that there's Canon code for outputting over USB instead of to the card.

Here's a way that offers up to a theoretical 80 MB/s: even if it's real-world only 50 or 60 MB/s, it's a vast improvement over the 60D's poky SD card slot:

Excuse me! Is this DIY project useful for this?

http://www.davidhunt.ie/?p=2641

It's basically a raspberry pi which communicates with the camera via USB.. and can download the material on realtime to a hard drive.. I don't know if the USB speeds are that high.. but I think it's an interesting project.. the author managed to do lots of stuff with it.. maybe even could open a wide range of possibilites for magic lantern! (i'm just wondering lol)..

Thanks, folks.

Sorry if this bumps the thread with no new information, but I really appreciate you posting your results; this is exactly the info I need to plan card purchases.

[not]

My 60D raw video shot last week in Prague (Czech Republic).
1600x680 scaled to 1920x816

Lovely work, Marekk!

I was looking for moire; seen at 1:42 in distant buildings, 2:18 seam in wall over seated guitarist, but not in overhead wires at 0:12.

Did you do anything to reduce aliasing?

What did you use for upscaling to 1920 wide?

I also especially appreciated the punctuation of the piano note with the changing traffic light at 3:49.

In cases where you have no choice but to hand-hold camera without even a monopod, you may want to consider making a string tripod:
https://startpage.com/do/search?q=%22string+tripod%22

I also especially like your time lapse sequences. I love that we can shoot at the full raw resolution possible on our cameras, with no card speed bottleneck, and without piling up wear-and-tear on the cameras with thousands of shutter actuations.

What frames per second did you use?

I shoot 0.214 fps to 6 fps at 1728x1152, which gives me some flexibility for slow tilt motions in post, to fit shorter aspect ratios.

Also, kudos in turning this project around so fast!

Canon powersave is kicking in; use sticky half-shutter as an workaround.

http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/faq#how_do_i_record_for_more_than_12_minutes

Thanks, Alex.

To save people the trip to the other page, the relevant passage reads:

To record continuously for more than 30 minutes, you need to use a HDMI recorder. Enable the Clear Overlays feature to hide the focus box and the 16:9 bars, and make the half-shutter button sticky to prevent the camera from turning off LiveView after 30 minutes.

The setting is:
Prefs>>Misc Key Settings...>>Sticky Half Shutter>>ON


thanks again


P.S.

Thanks to your tip, just now I was able to "save" a sequence from ending at 384 frames by a half-press of the shutter button

hi all,

I don't generally start threads, but a search shows no threads quite describing this problem.

This is in the general RAW category of threads rather than my adding it to the 60D specific thread
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5653.0
...as I suspect it may be a more general problem than with this camera.

I have been using very low FPS to accomplish raw time lapse. It's actually a great field to explore, as I suspect every camera can record raw video at the camera's maximum ML raw resolution... and of course this method avoids adding thousands of shutter cycles to the camera.

Whether recording 1728x1152 at 1 fps (1804 frames) or 0.214 fps i.e. 1 frame every 4.67 seconds (385 frames), the mirror flips down and the camera stops recording after just about exactly 30 minutes of raw recording.

exFAT, auto camera shutoff OFF, external power adapter. Global draw on/off doesn't seem to make a difference.

Is this a hard limitation built into the camera(s), or something that we can affect?

Many thanks for any ideas.

Good one, Nigel, thanks for sharing that.

Now, can anyone give us some tips on getting Canon to write H.264 files larger than 4 GB, especially as they've made all late-model cameras exFAT compatible?

ref: Current raw video capabilities (incl ex-FAT) - All ML cameras http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215

Beautiful, such clean, artifact-free images... and seemingly effortless detail in bright sky while earthly foreground is properly exposed.

Certainly couldn't accomplish this in H.264.

Well done editing too, 8beeeaaat : kudos.

Thanks, 1%.

I am using New System (June 15) and see no setting for Global Draw off while raw recording, unless it has a special name?

In other news, both on my 60D and 600D at 23.976 FPS, it seems I have lost the ability to set shutter speeds approaching 360º, with Exposure Override on.

I have already experimented with shutter range settings in FPS over-ride, to no avail. I can set a very few shutter speeds about 360º when undercranking for time lapse (eg 1 fps to 7 fps) when FPS is set to "optimize for low light," but when I set 23.976 FPS, I cannot set shutter speed within ML any lower than 1/31 second.

Does anyone have some suggestions on what may cause this?

Perhaps interaction with other settings?


A tip I discovered, which may be more widely useful (in which case, where should I post it?):

I find the auto white balance feature within ML to be invaluable, and use it with my gray card all the time.

When under-cranking with long shutter speeds around 360º though, the results are completely wonky, with vastly different WB settings taken seconds apart under identical lighting conditions.

My strategy is now to set ML white balance at "normal" shutter speeds, then set long shutter speeds as required, and make test clips of gray card and chip chart (Color Checker Passport).

I use DNGs from the latter to create custom camera profiles for each lighting situation, and expect that it should prove useful for keeping color consistent when I begin to use polarizers, which may not be completely "neutral" density when used with digital cameras.

This is separate altogether from the problem with infrared light—especially with ND filters—affecting digital sensors messing up color and fabric rendition:
http://www.ryanewalters.com/Blog/blog.php?categories=IR

Schneider Platinum IRND filters
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v65N4pwWfxI

It already does the first half of that, just set GD off in the module. The format has to settle down and get finalized before we can write guides.

Oh I hear you, DerekDock - definitely working within the 60D's limitations, myself!

Agreed too, that the cost of high-speed media for CF card cameras is a flustercluck.

At least with your 6D, you will have Canon's fastest implementation of SD card interface, perhaps twice as fast as 60D.

With 12 Class 10 and 3 UHS-1 (all 32 GB) cards for my 60D and 600D (T3i) cameras, I am sick and tired of buying flash memory!

1000x + CF cards cost so much, and some seem so flaky when pushed to their maximum speeds, that what I hold out most hope for is the CF to SSD interface being worked on at
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5470.0

Then I can skip all the Toshiba/SanDisk/Komputerbay/Toshiba BS and start buying common, reliable, reasonably-priced, HUGE SSDs.

As someone who often needs to record long takes, the amount of money I save by not buying crazy-priced fast CF cards will pay for the difference in cost to buy a 5D MkIII, soon enough

@ 1% : "Heh, 6D is 5d3 JR"   <— heh heh

I see your points but I'm finding that I don't need the record times afforded by the Cf card cams. With the 6D I can record 1080 2.35 for almost 20 seconds (in theory as I don't have it yet). Which is perfect for me as the data and cost of media gets out of control on the 5D mk3.

For $900 less than the 5D I can have the 6D with mosaic filter and have the same image quality, a nice form factor, and more manageable data. That works for me and gives me $ to spend on glass and creative cloud. I also have unlimited access to two Mark3s owned by my brother and a friend, so if I find I need one its a phone call and an hours drive away.

I have a 60D as well and have been shooting a good amount of RAW on it even with a SD bottleneck that is much worse than on the 6D. I'm sure ill be stoked.

Really now my only concern is getting the 6D to play nice with RAWmagic so my workflow can be smoother. But the VAF purchase is likely coming sooner than later.

OK, so *best stills setting for most buffer space while shooting raw video, is sRAW on 600D / T3i, and different for other cameras, eg. set to smallest JPG on 60D?

Too, if possible, it would be great if switching on RAW video was able to set GlobalDraw to be on while setting up, off while filming, and perhaps on-demand (push a button, eg. DOF preview) for brief checking while filming.

I am betting that there's no way ML could change the Canon menu setting for stills resolution (i.e. for largest buffer size) when raw video is enabled.


thanks for everything you do, 1%

Thank you 1% for reminding us of this tip.

Does the Sraw setting leave the most buffer memory available on all cameras, eg. including the 60D?

600D only so far, every camera is different... on 6D i can shoot raw quality and there is another trick.
<snip>

p.s.

It would be great if we had a single thread for optimal settings while shooting raw, for all cameras'. Not sure how many people may have multiple camera models capable of filming in raw as I do; it would be great to see a chart of the differences, like the excellent "Current raw video capabilities - All ML cameras" thread http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215

Such a thread might be like the excellent, existing, general thread
http://www.magiclantern.fm/bestpractices

...but for RAW film making.

How easy are these VAFs to take in and out? I'm planning on upgrading my 60D to a 6D in the next couple of weeks and the only Dow side I see to the 6D is the aliasing. I'm not upgrading for RAW but that is always a plus. The moire issues I've been having on the 60D are fine though as I'm used to them in the video I shoot on a dslr. Anything corporate or high end gets shot on a true video camera.  But if the VAF is a simple fix that then makes my "future" 6D a RAW beast it might be worth the $400.

DerekDock, the VAF filter looks quite simple to re-and-re in Cinema5D's review
http://vimeo.com/44900401

The big downsides to me of the 6D are yes, the terrible aliasing, but also the card-speed bottleneck which pretty well eliminates any full-frame goodness while shooting raw:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215

$400 to fix the aliasing with a VAF, and require post-sharpening to try to regain some of the lost sharpness, is a big chunk of the price difference between the 6D and the 5D MkIII - and still, we're stuck with slow, SD write speeds.

As attractive as the pricing on the 6D may be, it seems to me that no amount of technical jury-rigging will bring it close to the native full-frame clean-ness of the 5D MkIII.

Though I doubt that I'll buy another crop-sensor Canon, I look forward to seeing if Canon answers their widely-criticized aliasing, with the new sensor on the 70D, slated for introduction Tuesday July 2:
http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/06/canon-eos-70d-spec-list/

<snip>
Sraw gave up the most memory, others no change or a bunch less.

Thank you 1% for reminding us of this tip.

Does the Sraw setting leave the most buffer memory available on all cameras, eg. including the 60D?

@cthornhill: I can't address all that you've said, though it's been my experience that SanDisk ExtremePro offer no advantage over regular "Extreme" branded SD cards (45 MB/s), due to the 60D's hardware limitation of about 20 MB/s write speed.

Can't imagine that the ExtremePro should be ant DISadvantage, but I have been shooting with the same tips you mention (GlobalDraw Off, larger buffer with still quality set to JPG only), and I rarely see pink frames any more, eg. numerous 1728x972 1 fps time lapse, 1800 frames (1/2 hour) with no pinks.

Again, I would hate to think it could be a problem, but perhaps try another (perhaps not-so-) fast card?

New "1080p" RAW video...

Lovely work, great color, OrionnebelGalaxie17!

Annoying that "the pinks" slip in from time to time:



I have been making quickie fill-in frames to replace these, with the subsequent frame at 50% over the prior frame and flattened.

If someone knows a lot more about eg. After Effects, could you show us how to generate real tween frames, with motion interpolation?