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I shot this in just 3 hours for a friend. Hasn't been entirely color corrected (I don't really know how, actually) and edit is rough. But I'd appreciate any suggestions. Didn't use RAW because having trouble figuring out workflow for MAC. Used a 24-105 F4, an 70-200 F2.8, and an old 50mm Nikon F 1.4

Suggestions and Comments Appreciated!

I've got a 5d M2 and edit on a mac computer. I can't find the information I'm looking for on this thread, and I wonder if anyone who has made ML work with this configuration would be willing to email me and later answer some questions on the phone. I live in the USA and can pay you something for your trouble via paypal. email address is dandmcguire at  gmail.com.
Thanks,
Dan McGuire

Are there any tutorials on installing ML RAW on a 5dmii using a MAC? Please, someone out there show me the way.

350 frames for a Canon 5D M2 just double checking here - is that right? Only 10 + seconds of footage possible? Sorry, I'm not a techie.
Petruk

And after trying this method, the answer appears to be a two letter word:

No.

Well, I did read the manual. It offers advice on FCPX but is unclear on FCP7. But perhaps I am missing something.
The second link was interesting - it says there is NO FCP7 plug-in, but an odd workaround. It is buried deep in the comments thread, but I'll reprint here, incase someone else in interested:

FCP7 method

1. In the timeline, apply the Strobe effect (Duration: 2) to your source footage on v1. This will make v1 show the underexposed frames only (at half the frame rate).
2. Option-drag the video layer upwards to make a copy of the footage on v2.
3. Trim one frame off the front off the copy on v2, and move it back one frame to line up with v1. This will make the clip on v2 show only the overexposed frames.

How you then combine the two layers depends on your HDR method of choice – in some cases a luma key works:

4. Apply the Luma Key effect (Final, Key Out Brighter, Copy to Alpha, 20, 100) to v2 so that it only shows the bright parts of the image you want to overlay onto v1.

As I'm more of an FCP user than an HDR expert, you might want to search for other composition methods elsewhere on the internet.

Carmel said:
9 January, 2012
9:04 pm

Hi Alex,

thanks again for the workflow suggested to fcp 7.
It worked just fine with preparing the two layers.
What you suggested with LUMA Key Effect creates a "milky" kind of image.
If anyone working with FCP 7 has an idea to that one?
(combining the two layers).

Cheers!

I thought there was a way, but can't find any information online.

I guess I am really trying to figure out is the workflow to get proper exposure for HDR video for a shot like this. If you had reading inside the barn of F4 ISO1600 with a shutter speed of 1/2 second, and if the reading out the door was F4 iso100 at the same shutter speed, how would you set that in the menu?

I suspect the exposure difference is even greater - out the door might be f16 iso 100 at 1/2 second.

Here is a better still shot

Forgot to mention I am shooting with a 5d m2. Probably a 24-105 f4, though I have an old nikon prime 28mm which is 2.8

Folks,

My first post here.

I am going to be shooting a long dolly move in a dark old barn. I understand that I am limited to 15 FPS, so I will make the moves extra slow.

The barn is very dark but has a few windows where light streams in, very bright. Does anyone have suggestions on the best HDR settings? Obviously, I want to get detail indoors and see some details outdoors. I wonder if I would need to have ISO settings range from 100 to 3200 with the alternate HDR images.