Today I shipped my M to 1%, he will be taking over from here. I decided I just don't have the time right now to figure out some of the problems.
Got the EOSM, going to start messing with it. Prop LV lens is different yet again... the filters dont work... how do you even activate MZ?
Lots of work on this one, going to be a PITA but might make something of EOSM yet.
Yep... hard to get those fancy vsync features working... but a question:
Why is vignetting correction applied twice? Once from Vsync and then again from state 4->5
Can beep now... Needs patching going to try to do a better job and jump the asserts instead of no-oping them. I was doing little endian before it wasn't working.
Audio *MIGHT* be easier on this camera... the audio IC writes/reads look more like they are sending commands not loading a struct and shooting it all at once. There are 2 headphone powerup commands and a monitoring command.
It would be nice if you figure out the IC protocol, the 650D has the same one
Quote from: 1% on April 18, 2013, 04:13:34 AM
Got the EOSM, going to start messing with it. Prop LV lens is different yet again... the filters dont work... how do you even activate MZ?
Lots of work on this one, going to be a PITA but might make something of EOSM yet.
Yep... hard to get those fancy vsync features working... but a question:
Why is vignetting correction applied twice? Once from Vsync and then again from state 4->5
Can beep now... Needs patching going to try to do a better job and jump the asserts instead of no-oping them. I was doing little endian before it wasn't working.
Audio *MIGHT* be easier on this camera... the audio IC writes/reads look more like they are sending commands not loading a struct and shooting it all at once. There are 2 headphone powerup commands and a monitoring command.
vsync is tough on this camera, it will take some tweaking.
- good job on beep! i didn't even look at audio, i was too busy getting menu and stuff working.
- for MZ, it's best to just set it to always on, because i was yet to find some indicator that focus was changing (I found one status register in memory that changed when focus was changed a lot, but nothing very accurate / fine).
- vignetting, idk (happened during random commits? haven't really really worked on this since the fall)
- display filters, not sure - like you said the prop is changed now.
Ask me questions and i'll bring you up to speed. Glad someone is at least working on it now :)
I'm not up to speed on the touch screen yet but I think this thing seriously needs support for it.
So there has to be an X/Y register or location somewhere. Once that can be read my idea is:
1. Hijack Touch input from canon so we can intercept events.
2. Make hot corners... like windows 8. Seems simple and one could be ml menu, one could be mz, etc.
3. The junkie menu should already have X/y for the buttons since it draws them all on 1 screen. I think this would be a good way to interact with ML menus via touch.
For vsync, evf state is pretty good. 60P MZ is pretty much flicker free. Maybe use that to sync anamorphic,etc. I'm getting original problem like 6D where the overlays don't draw and F/S mz doesn't work. I'll have to look and see if display state sends anything usable.
BTW; not seeing lines on EOS_M when using FPS override with timer B.... also the videos are baseline profile... this is digic V?
Quote from: 1% on April 18, 2013, 03:33:09 PM
I'm not up to speed on the touch screen yet but I think this thing seriously needs support for it.
So there has to be an X/Y register or location somewhere. Once that can be read my idea is:
1. Hijack Touch input from canon so we can intercept events.
2. Make hot corners... like windows 8. Seems simple and one could be ml menu, one could be mz, etc.
3. The junkie menu should already have X/y for the buttons since it draws them all on 1 screen. I think this would be a good way to interact with ML menus via touch.
For vsync, evf state is pretty good. 60P MZ is pretty much flicker free. Maybe use that to sync anamorphic,etc. I'm getting original problem like 6D where the overlays don't draw and F/S mz doesn't work. I'll have to look and see if display state sends anything usable.
BTW; not seeing lines on EOS_M when using FPS override with timer B.... also the videos are baseline profile... this is digic V?
M is digic 5 yes, as far as touch goes, here's some testing I did:
lines are present, here's a 9 hour timelapse showing them getting worse over time:
You used timer A only so of course.
Have you guys tried to utilize mjpeg on this one yet? If full frame can do 20fps (i think it was) maybe this one can do 24? I know it is easy to say then done but at least in theory - would it be possible?
Just got it yesterday but did think of it... Also some new stuff got found that might give access to raw data.
Dont mean to be annoying but you know I got to ask now: what you mean by RAW data? Also, wanted to say thanks to Coutts for sending his cam to 1%- that was nice of you!
Like for the histogram and maybe movies... we'll see.
Yea, EOS-M isn't going to be doing much overcranking... also:
FPS timer B and A need to be limited I think. Too much A = Lines. Too much B = overheating.
I'm trying B000 as a B limit, the overheating was real obvious with M.
Need to find some sane limits.
No luck with FPS limits... if I limit too much then it doesn't work right... Reverse is overheating tho.
Flush rate is working though, I tried down to 2 frames. "CBR" 9x and not a hickup... only 72Mb/s tho... this camera will have to set slice and/or digic parameters.
Another bit of news... the videos have an M=1 for ref frames so I'm going to look at video paramters and see if M setting is present. Then can set it to 3 and have IPB, etc. I still have to throw videos in my analysis tools and see what its really writing, be it IP/IPB/etc.
Bad news for beep... stopping DMA DAC causes freeze and not error. I tried some patching but its not working. Weird that recording is seemingly working and so is playback... just after initiial play /rec camera locks up :(
Looks bad for syncing overlays have 26 and 27 display state event but neither is in sync.... too far down the line and you cant see the others.
I really hope for the audio to work as then this camera can be a run and gun on a steadicam. That way you save the weight of the body and just have to balance the lens. The adapter is conveniently centered.
Well its still freezing after beep and I don't see anything in the logs.
For menu while recording:
Redraw flood needs to be disabled. It can't open the canon dialog in the backround. Also guirequestmode of 0 means the buttons don't work. Setting gui request mode to ML mode like 90 fixes the buttons but when you come out of the menu it doesn't go back to 0 right, you lose all events and if lucky can press play mode to get them back after stopping recording.
Is assert working on this camera?
Quote from: 1% on April 23, 2013, 06:10:09 PM
Well its still freezing after beep and I don't see anything in the logs.
For menu while recording:
Redraw flood needs to be disabled. It can't open the canon dialog in the backround. Also guirequestmode of 0 means the buttons don't work. Setting gui request mode to ML mode like 90 fixes the buttons but when you come out of the menu it doesn't go back to 0 right, you lose all events and if lucky can press play mode to get them back after stopping recording.
Is assert working on this camera?
ML assert? should be
It dumps the assert message to where the dumpf log would normally go. I've only gotten hangs and never err 70.
Synced MZ on EOSM... input 15 old state 5 on evf state fires every frame... unfortunately this doesn't work for display filters.
For image parameters we are catching Display state just one state too late. It is firing right at the end. On 6D it would fire one transition before. They are both state 1 but on 6D there is also a state 0 that comes after it.
On 600D we can't sync because both input 3 and 5 happen on old state 5. The sync function would have to run at 1/2 speed somehow. Fires twice as much as needed.
Quote from: 1% on April 25, 2013, 04:31:44 AM
Synced MZ on EOSM... input 15 old state 5 on evf state fires every frame... unfortunately this doesn't work for display filters.
For image parameters we are catching Display state just one state too late. It is firing right at the end. On 6D it would fire one transition before. They are both state 1 but on 6D there is also a state 0 that comes after it.
On 600D we can't sync because both input 3 and 5 happen on old state 5. The sync function would have to run at 1/2 speed somehow. Fires twice as much as needed.
int skip = 0;
skip = !skip, to toggle it on/off?
Skip? You can't see the correct state, it never showed on the screen. For 600D would have to be 3->5->sync. I'll have to see where the other cameras land which use it.
The audio meters only work while recording :) Buffer isn't too bad while recording either... I'll have to hack it to be big all the time.
ML menu works while recording now. I used guimode 99 and set it back to 0 when exiting the menu.... sometimes it fucks up the first time so press down first I guess.
Am I being blind or are Focus Menu items unavailable on EOS-M?
I'm using the Alpha version for Eos-m.
Trap Focus,
Follow Focus,
Focus End Point,
Etc.
appear to be unavailable.
Thanks
Those don't really work because there is no focus confirmation.. There is only the crappy LV focus... ever have trap focus in LV mode?
I plan on screwing with AF with some of the 6D props to see if I can speed it up but not sure how that would work for trap focus as its slooooooooow. Follow focus needs some sort of on screen short-cuts.
Right now got MZ synced and ml menu working along with flush rate.
Quick question, what are you using to debug state transition ?
For simple stuff you can use bmp_printf. For more complex logs, I use dm-spy and DryosDebugMsg.
Or, custom logging code like this: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=1915
I used consoleprintf like coutts and notifybox. Notifybox seems good for seeing what will get to the screen and how often... dunno about this approach but it seems to work for MZ at least. I'm going to try to sync 600D with face or one of the other stateobj I looked at on M.
Uhm that state transition didn't work on the 650D
Alex gave me an idea that hopefully will help us automatically find suitable vsync transitions by analyzing the FPS of a set of candidates
Input 15 is missing?
It's there but the overlay flickers so fast it's almost like it's getting triggered at half the fps
Like 600D where sync should be working from either Display State or the regular EVF sync but doesn't.
The raw pics come out half height in EOS-M... also lv rec doesn't want to load. Just sits with no messages after hitting load.
I've done a bit of digging and found a couple of vsync functions in the firmware... Maybe it's worth exploring them (of know Alex already tried but couldn't understand them)
Would be cool to have sync... where should I look. I still need to decompile EOSM and 113 of 6D. Actually probably a new decompile for all fw because I named a bunch.
Vsynced the 650D with the same transitions as the EOSM.
God knows why it didn't work properly yesterday
Same reason SSS state not working on M and the transitions are the same.
I'm able to dump something on EeKo encoder... found more of its functions.
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=wM6kJbGrQ (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=wM6kJbGrQ)
Maybe we should compare with 6D in Eeko mode and 650D.
call("DumpEeko");
EeKo appears to use Jpcore2 vs Jp62 like the DigicIV encoder. Debugmsg content is poor :(
Eeko supports ALL-I, IPP and IPB... takes it all from video params .
LV is always 30fps until encode starts... also the qscale scale is wrong I think
There is a test function to set the input buffer.. so I guess can feed it something else.
The LV size is so small because it goes Raw->Sraw->YUV
not to side track but since some of you have this camera would you say its a good secondary camera to have a long with someone that owns the T4i? I can get the body for around $350 so that seems pretty good but I can get the T3i for about that too...
Its really small... that's about it tho. T3i is a more usable camera for normal applications.
EOS-M seems more of a camera to mount to stuff where a DSLR is too big but a P&S would provide insufficient image quality.
thats a good point at half the weight of the T4i, it would make for a better choice for mounting to places and similar and for tight spaces or like hiking. I think I will go that route down the road. Thanks
If only the M had a tilty screen the combo M + ML + Gorillapod would be one of the best around
Interesting state transitions on the 650D, maybe it's worth checking them out on the EOSM too for vsync
old_state input ticks_in_10_seconds
05 03 603
05 04 604
05 05 604
05 15 603
I think I tried all evf + face + display state states for syncing stuff like anamorphic. Everything is too late to the party.MZ was easy... replacing display state 27 does not appear to be. Only works in photo mode just like 6D did originally.
15 doesn't work for digic functions like fps or image effects but great for syncing. 5 and 4 are great for image effects but didn't sync magic zoom.
So we need to find a state that happens just before drawing so the buffer can be hijacked.
Why don't modules/console work? No text displays and it won't turn off once enabled (so no other ml overlays draw). I think lv recorder has a chance on M with the reduced width 422 buffer.
I'll check them on the 650D.
5d3 + 650D can probably boot with 640K bins. I have 3mb of ram even on eos M.
Modules are working fine on the 650D assuming you have all the stubs for lvrec
Yes... even the test module won't load... I get nothing in console and I can't make it go away so its like console is broken?
Yep, tried to check sig of EOS M and console comes up with no text, menu stops drawing.
Very impressive FPS... lol was seeing all these frames go by... it was set to end trigger :)
only 7!!! yes, 7 frames of raw can be saved..... aaaand that is about equivalent to the real raw rate.
Fixed prop LV lens... If its not the right focus distance I'll have to move to next one... there are 2 .. 0049 and 004a different by +1. Focal lenght also is doubled both for 6D and M 0023 and 0023 (35mm)
I try to put a Samyang 8mm fisheye (Manual lense with no electronics) with the EF adapter, but impossible to take a photo or start a video.
Are the ML could solve it?
Go to canon custom functions, it's there already
Hi guys,
with great interest I am reading this thread, and I read nearly all pages of it, sometimes I had difficulties to understand, but am quite amazed by the possibilities given with ML (especially because I am a long time Pentax - user and miss many of these possibilites ;(...
Trying to capture video on a professional level, I want to buy 4+ Canon M Cameras, with various lenses, and record 'concerts' 'music videos' etc. So I need to have great video quality, long video clip duration, and sync.-possibilites, external monitor-possibilites... (also Using a DIY Camera Crane with 4m range)... (basically I want to use the M, as it is quite cheap and veery light for 'DSLR-video-quality')
I have a few questions (if this is not the right place to ask these, I am sorry & pleas direct me to the right position ... Thank you!)
1. What is the longest video duration with no single frame missing in 1080p,25fps?
2. Is it possible to use a "China-Full manual" Mount adapter for 15bucks from the bay if I want to only use ''manual ooold glass" or Samyang 85 1.4 with no AF-contacts and so on... (M42 lenses?) (I want to only use kit lens & old manual glass, as the Focus throw is longer than with modern zoom and AF-lenses, so manual focusing is a lot easier while recording video...)
3. Is it possible to synchronize the 4 (or more cameras) with a sort of wireless audio transmitter (as Audio is recorded separately) that can be plugged in the audio or other external sockets in the EOS M somewhere??
4. Is it possible to have an auto movie restart function where camera restarts video after the 29minutes... (I know there generally is in ML, but I don't know if it is working on the EOS M).
5. Is there Liveview-output via HDMI and what is the highest resolution while recording 1080p being transferred to an external screen?
If this might work out, I will be very thankful to you helpers and contribute to the ML-research group ;)
Thanks in advance for answers!
Kevin
Hmm.. I don't know how that will work out. The highest rates I got out of M were 70Mb/s with flush rate and CBR function cranked all the way. I still have to analyze.
Soon IPB and IPP and ALL-I will be possible.. I don't know how to change the profile away from baseline yet.
I have to check HDMI to see what happens. I have adapters so I will see what they do. There is no focus confirmation.
Movie restart should work already. Sync between the 4 probably impossible although you can do the shutter tuning thing for LCD screens etc, it may at least sync shutter.
So by that, you mean that 70Mb/s are too low? So quality will not be very good for professional video productions?
"There is no focus confirmation" ... focus peaking with these false colour flickering will work, right?
Does the movie restart function mean that it will restart the video after 29.xx minutes?? Or does it have to restart the video after the 4GB file size limit? (so basically, what will be the longest video duration possible w.o. frame loss (it is essential for classic concert-recordings no to loose too much time in these breaks... )
i don't get what you mean with the shutter tuning thing for LCD screens...
Thank you,
Kevin
The image effect to sync the electronic shutter with LCDs/TVs/LIGHTS
The crappy focus peaking works, the good one with display filters does not.
All digic V cut the big file into 4gb chunks after 30 minutes. So it only needs to restart every 30
*I just checked the adapter. It doesn't help you focus. Just shows an aperture.
Added raw histogram. Fixed adapter ring expo. Turns out there is a zoom box and you can move it around with your finger... the mz flickers once when the zoom box position changes but its kinda cool. Also works to have mz on 1/2 shutter and when it focuses it zooms in on the area its looking.
Console still not working, no characters show up even when I enable console debug.
Quote from: 1% on May 03, 2013, 05:01:16 PM
Added raw histogram. Fixed adapter ring expo. Turns out there is a zoom box and you can move it around with your finger... the mz flickers once when the zoom box position changes but its kinda cool. Also works to have mz on 1/2 shutter and when it focuses it zooms in on the area its looking.
Console still not working, no characters show up even when I enable console debug.
i think it's a backend bug, i can't make it work on the 6D (from main repo not yours).
6D it always worked... i'm building EOSM off the 6D repo so the bug must be unique to M. 650D apparently works.
Oh man... wtf are these dots:
(http://i.imgur.com/4OXEnh5.jpg)
They are in DNGs
I was going to suggest that they might be something to do with the phase detect pixels (which I believe give a different response, and are compensated for during image processing), but this suggests that they may be more random than the dots in your image:
http://image-sensors-world.blogspot.co.nz/2012/07/chipworks-shows-phase-detection-pixels.html (http://image-sensors-world.blogspot.co.nz/2012/07/chipworks-shows-phase-detection-pixels.html)
Keep up the good work, am looking forward to more capabilities (especially the focus peaking) for my camera!
Ha! that explains it.. wish there was a way to hide it, those dots are very annoying
Things that don't work right now:
*Advanced peaking/processing - ie. anamorphic, alpha blend, etc
*Asif hangs camera... dunno why tried several ways. Just beeps once and then hang the second time
*MZ flickers while recording... buffer changes and sync changes i bet.
*Console broken so no LV_rec/tinypy yet... going to try to use malloc again(maybe memory issue) there is 700kb there like 5d3.
*focus confirmation (have to look at how its done for burst, since thats in LV) maybe we'll get trap focus out of it
*mraw/sraw - needs more investigation, turns off camera
Things that do work:
Menus while recording.
Audio Meters while recording
Raw DNG
Flush rate
Probably IPB/ALLI/IPP - have to make menus for them
fps override
focus distance/focal length/exposure meter
edmac stuff
raw histogram/zebras/spotmeter
I was reading through the thread and I couldn't find an answer with certainty about shooting tethered with the M. With ML installed on the M, can it shoot via USB tethered like the T4i can?
Thanks. :)
Like connected to EOS utility you mean? I have to try it.
Thank you for your great works, guys!
I got my M last week and used it for a small commercial video. Too bad I didn't find this thread, kelvin WB would help a lot. haha
I'm so glad you guys did release this Alpha for M. Now my M is on the fly!
Now I'm just being curious about the shutter count. How do we count this in M?
ML reports 2K of shutter count. And that would be 758 + 942. But I'm sure I've never shot with my M more than 700-800 shots, counted by RAW files stored on my harddrive plus deleted ones. It shouldn't have been more than the front number, which is 758. How did 942 come?
Thank you for the release!
Well with M every start is a LV actuation and so that counts "against" you... also every shutter click is a shutter click... add the 2 together on a normal camera and you would have shutter count. With M I guess it doesn't matter so much..
Ok, boots successfully via cache hack to malloc pool.... but... malloc pool doesn't reflect the "hit" from ML binary. Would it show it through the copy&restart method? Should I fixup start and end address somehow or leave as is... or go back to allocate?
Console still doesn't want to work. I dunno WTF is wrong with it.
Quote from: 1% on May 08, 2013, 05:04:22 PM
Ha! that explains it.. wish there was a way to hide it, those dots are very annoying
Well, it depends on what you want to do :P
On the 650D you can clearly see the focus point types (cross, H , V)
You can mark them as bad pixels (alex suggested to have a look at the dng converter code)
Wouldn't it be the same as getting rid of the dots in post? Wouldn't they just show black if marked bad... they're pretty big.
PROP_LV_FOCUSDATA dead on EOSM too :(
I'm assuming that if bad pixels marking is part of the DNG spec, then a DNG RAW converter will deal with them in a smart way by interpolating from surrounding good pixels. While they look big, you may find that they have little effect on the image. The canon firmware might still use these pixels for imaging, with knowledge of the different light response they could scale them differently for demosaicing (for JPEG) or when writing the raw CR2.
This is all assuming however that these dots are indeed related to the phase detect - I have no experience with this stuff, it was just an educated guess.
They're in different places so I'm assuming they have to be for AF. I don't think they're dead pixels or something as they don't show up in YUV or photos.
Quote from: 1% on May 08, 2013, 09:33:28 PM
Like connected to EOS utility you mean? I have to try it.
Yes, that was what I meant, sorry I wasn't specific. :) The lack of the ability to shoot tethered via USB (with stuff like EOS Utility) the way my T2i does is what kept me from getting an M. But if ML makes that possible, then the M becomes more interesting to me.
Thanks,
Chuck
Well T3i and 6D work with EOS utility just fine.
Quote from: 1% on May 10, 2013, 07:02:06 PM
Well T3i and 6D work with EOS utility just fine.
Yeah, I think all of the other current EOS cameras work with EOS Utility, it's just the M that Canon decided to cripple and remove the tethered shooting ability. Why is beyond me. I guess they felt if they made the M too good they'd steal sales from the more expensive models and cut into their profits. :)
Chuck
Hmmm... will have to see, the issue could be eos utility too. A little bit speculation till I hook it up and try it.
I don't know if anything here was intentional crippling... this camera has ~50MB of shoot malloc, even less w/ raw quality selected. Very low memory and underpowered. CPU load for this and 650D is very high in LV with nothing running. I think they are ditching these platforms because they are too slow.
I noticed the EOSM build is currently broken. Error message: undefined reference to `GetNextMemoryChunk', being used in exmem.c and debug.c. The problem seems to be a missing GetNextMemoryChunk in stubs.S.
I am getting an EOS M next week for testing. Should I try to learn how to add missing stubs or can exmem/debug be disabled somehow? I feel like going the easier route first....
Thanks, Stefan.
You can build off my 6D repo... working fine there.
BTW:
NSTUB(0xFF0EA0E4, AllocateMemoryResourceForSingleChunck) //caller
NSTUB(0xFF13B7DC, FreeMemoryResource) // m_pfFreeMemoryCBR
NSTUB(0xFFA723E4 - RAM_OFFSET, GetFirstChunkFromSuite) // AJ_PackMemory_PackMem_p3
NSTUB(0xFFA71DBC - RAM_OFFSET, GetMemoryAddressOfMemoryChunk)
NSTUB(0xFFA72B80 - RAM_OFFSET, GetNextMemoryChunk)
Thanks 1%, works as advertised.
Regarding EOS Utility / remote control: In any case, we should be able to use ptpcam or roll our own PTP command that does what we need, right?
Hey guys,
I have few more questions, before I buy 5 EOS M cameras to do video work...
- old FD lenses with China adapters will work with manual exposure and manual focus?
- will it work with automatic exposure too?
- will movie restart function work (so I can record up to 29.xx minutes?
- the simple AF-Help/color flickering while manual focusing?
- Recording on Class 10 SDXC, 64GB cards...?
- setting the same WhiteBalance and colour modes on all cameras?
- Does it have Live HDMI-output in what resolution while recording??
If you could answer me these questions I would be really happy and very thankful!! (which will definetely result in donation to ML!)
Thank you,
Kevin
Quote from: Eisland on May 12, 2013, 01:30:49 PM
Hey guys,
I have few more questions, before I buy 5 EOS M cameras to do video work...
- old FD lenses with China adapters will work with manual exposure and manual focus?
- will it work with automatic exposure too?
- will movie restart function work (so I can record up to 29.xx minutes?
- the simple AF-Help/color flickering while manual focusing?
- Recording on Class 10 SDXC, 64GB cards...?
- setting the same WhiteBalance and colour modes on all cameras?
- Does it have Live HDMI-output in what resolution while recording??
If you could answer me these questions I would be really happy and very thankful!! (which will definetely result in donation to ML!)
Thank you,
Kevin
I can partially answer your post.
FD lenses should work. I have a China adapter for Pentax K mount, it works. Set Custom Function 7 to Enable, enable shutter w/o lens.
Automatic exposure will work, obviously its like an aperture priority since your lens has the aperture ring. Camera reports aperture as "00"
I have not tested the movie restart function. However, I did use it as an "a" camera at a live performance and next time I will not. The battery is about the size of a cell phone battery. The battery was about to run out so I had to change it. Problem is even though I had the QR plate for the tripod head mounted to the EF lens adapter I still had trouble getting the battery out and the lens would not come off either without removing the QR plate first. Lesson learned, next time its the "b" camera so starting and stopping is no big deal. In summary, I don't know how many minutes of recording you will get before you need to change the battery.
Are you talking about focus peaking? It works.
I don't know about the card I am using SDHC class 10 32 GB, no problems.
Yes the camera has manual white balance and picture styles. I mix mine with a 7d and a GoPro 3, can't tell a difference in color.
Yes it has live HDMI output while recording, the screen on the camera blacks out like the 7d and I can't tell you the resolution.
one thing up in the alpha is that it doesn't have the manual adapter patch so expo sim will be incorrect in photo mode.
I'm using it this way now because I hate the AF.
Peaking and all that stuff works but not the fancy peaking/filter. Movie restart works... The battery is terrible.
Hi guys,
thank you so much for your responses!! We are using 5 cameras, so we will be able to cut from here to there... We plan to use AC-Power adapters to keep them running aaaall concert long ;)
I will soon buy the equipment needed and will try ML the very first time (being a long time Pentax User, I wish you start hacking my K-5 ;)
Thank you so mcuh!
Kevin
Quote from: jasonwhk on December 15, 2012, 07:16:34 AM
But I found that after installing ML on EOS M the 18-55mm couldn't release the shutter, I have to dismount and put it back in order to shoot.
Same for me for autoexec.bin compiled on 20.04.2013, but there is no problem for autoexec.bin on 10.12.2012
I have tried compile autoexec.bin today but got an error:
[spoiler][ CC ] picoc.o
[ CC ] chdk-gui_script.o
[ AR ] lib_a-memcpy.o
[ AR ] newlib-libc.a
[ LD ] magiclantern
exmem.o: In function `exmem_save_buffer':
exmem.c:(.text+0x1fc): undefined reference to `GetNextMemoryChunk'
exmem.o: In function `exmem_clear':
exmem.c:(.text+0x268): undefined reference to `GetNextMemoryChunk'
exmem.o: In function `shoot_malloc_suite_contig':
exmem.c:(.text+0x504): undefined reference to `GetNextMemoryChunk'
debug.o: In function `guess_free_mem_task':
debug.c:(.text+0x9c8): undefined reference to `GetNextMemoryChunk'
debug.o: In function `stub_test_task':
debug.c:(.text+0x6970): undefined reference to `GetNextMemoryChunk'
debug.o:debug.c:(.text+0x70c4): more undefined references to `GetNextMemoryChunk ' follow
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
../../Makefile.inc:441: recipe for target `magiclantern' failed
make: *** [magiclantern] Error 1
make: Leaving directory `/home/vstrglv/magic-lantern/platform/EOSM.106'[/spoiler]
No problem for compiling autoexec.bin for5d3 today (but dated 5th of May)
Haven't seen the shutter bug yet on my builds. Will have to try to reproduce it.
Congrats to the ML team on the recent success with raw on the 5D mark 3! I read that you guys will try to port it over to the mark 2 and 6D next. Do you think this feature will be possible on the M eventually, particularly the 1:1 crop? Thanks.
Well its already ported to those cameras... on M it *should* work for very tiny video... Only 50MB buffer. the silent pic dngs already work and you get 7.
For some reason no module will load and console is broken. That's what is holding it up.
So what kind of buffer is considered minimum to have 1080x1980?
A fast CF card and around 100MB of buffer
Hi there,
thanks for porting ML to EOS-M! I use it on my 5D2 and 7D also.
I have also the shutter bug as user jasonwhk (Dec 15) and vstrglv (May 12) mentioned.
My EF-M 18-55 STM is well recognized by the EOS-M, only taking pictures does not function. All other functions like zooming, AF and so on are ok.
If I just remove ML (FW Update, turn mode dial, reboot) all is normal, the 18-55 behaves 100% ok.
Cam and lens are new, no dirt on lens contacts, no wrong installation.
So the error is related to the ML Alpha1 .
My other lens EF-M 22 2.0 STM works well, shutter function in ML full ok, also other Canon lenses with the mount adapter.
If I run the ML internal tests, 4 errors are found, what can I provide to aid in fixing the errors?
Q: Is there a better version than the ALPHA1 from the download page? I tried the last nightly build, but that obviously works not for the EOS-M as stated.
Please help...
Try:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/EOS-M.zip
Does the issue remain?
:D
Great! It works, with the new autoexec.bin 538.302 bytes my 18-55 and shutter works.
Thank you!
regards,
Jupiter
Hey guys,
I bought the M, installed ML (very exciting for me being a Canon & ML newbie)...
now I see a EFIC Chip temperature and am wondering which temperatures it should have. Mine says after about 2minutes of liveview ~108°C. That seems pretty high to me and so I am wondering, if ML will switch the camera off if it might fail due to temperature rising.
What temperatures are normal?????
Please give me a hint, as I don't want to kill my brandnew camera...
Thank you!
Kevin
I keep running into this error. I could brute force it and eliminate the line, but I have no idea the repercussions of that.
Where in the code should FEATURE_SILENT_PIC_RAW or FEATURE_SILENT_PIC_RAW_BURST be defined?
../../src/shoot.c:1045:6: error: #error FEATURE_SILENT_PIC requires FEATURE_SILENT_PIC_RAW or FEATURE_SILENT_PIC_RAW_BURST
make[1]: *** [shoot.o] Error 1
Edit: Thank you Nanomad!
Although now it's throwing another error. It's the EABI version mismatch issue. Time to try and download a different arm compiler. :(
#undef FEATURE_SILENT_PIC inside features.h
i wait firmware update in the long time.... :'( thanks everyone !
Have to check the silent pic sizes and make sure there are no regressions then I'll build a new one. Had no luck with raw video still.. console is broken.
Console is unbroken... thanks a1ex. Now raw recording works. Hint: Its pathetic
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5D%20Raw%20Recording.zip
Caveats:
*Hacked Mode may not return LV or GD... turn camera on/off
*Turn on frame skip.. there is no way to record continuously
*Previews don't work, playback only works in photo mode
*Modules only load from cold boot in movie mode
Otherwise without modules operation should be normal (check and makes sure nothing broke)
Quote from: 1% on June 01, 2013, 03:54:23 PM
Console is unbroken... thanks a1ex. Now raw recording works. Hint: Its pathetic
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5D%20Raw%20Recording.zip
Caveats:
*Hacked Mode may not return LV or GD... turn camera on/off
*Turn on frame skip.. there is no way to record continuously
*Previews don't work, playback only works in photo mode
*Modules only load from cold boot in movie mode
Otherwise without modules operation should be normal (check and makes sure nothing broke)
I've loaded up the raw module from your link. It won't record at all, even on the lowest resolution. I get the error "Memory error Alloc: 18M".
The card benchmarks i consistently get over 36 MB/sec write speeds on the 32GB Sandisk Extreme card in the camera.
Try update... Should load. It is loading on mine. Cold boot in movie mode.
Make sure photo is L... there is some way to get 95MB... I was messing with noise reduction and it freed it in photo mode. Otherwise you get like 55M
Shit! Found a hot method to record on EOS-M... photo mode (after loading modules in movie mode) -> High ISO Noise, Multi Shot... now have the 95MB but can't trigger raw_rec (LV button is dead)
I added menu to trigger and seems to be working... just like 600D. 32*32*29
Ok it is gangster right now... not good for other cameras with the menu thing tho. Hopefully g3gg0's input modules solve this.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5D%20UsableRaw.zip
Remember:
Movie Cold boot -> load -> photo mode -> canon menu -> nr -> multi shot.
Make sure you don't turn on raw_rec before doing that or it will start recording.. menu key
Quality still should be L, won't let you pick anything else anyway.
Squeeze factor may be off, no pinkies so far. FPS override is your friend. Should be 4gb proof with exfat...
650D try this NR trick!
Hi everybody,
I have found last day this website. I was looking around for focus peaking on nex and eventually other mirorless cameras.
Let's explain. It is time for me to buy a mirorless camera. I am still doing film photography with my canon new F1 and T90 with some FD lenses and I plan to keep on film for B&W shots and to go with digital camera for color ones. The deal is to use my FD lenses on the digital camera so a mirorless one is what to be choosen I think.
The question is : is the focus peaking fully and reliably available on EOS M using Magic Lantern right now ? Quickly thought, I don't really need other feature at this time.
Thanks for your good advises.
Thanks 1% I got it working. I don't have time to mess with it now but at 960 x 544 @ 24 fps I captured like 670 frames until live view shut off automatically need to change that setting to never and try again...
Quote from: 1% on June 03, 2013, 02:46:39 AM
Try update... Should load. It is loading on mine. Cold boot in movie mode.
Make sure photo is L... there is some way to get 95MB... I was messing with noise reduction and it freed it in photo mode. Otherwise you get like 55M
Shit! Found a hot method to record on EOS-M... photo mode (after loading modules in movie mode) -> High ISO Noise, Multi Shot... now have the 95MB but can't trigger raw_rec (LV button is dead)
I added menu to trigger and seems to be working... just like 600D. 32*32*29
Ok it is gangster right now... not good for other cameras with the menu thing tho. Hopefully g3gg0's input modules solve this.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5D%20UsableRaw.zip
Remember:
Movie Cold boot -> load -> photo mode -> canon menu -> nr -> multi shot.
Make sure you don't turn on raw_rec before doing that or it will start recording.. menu key
Quality still should be L, won't let you pick anything else anyway.
Squeeze factor may be off, no pinkies so far. FPS override is your friend. Should be 4gb proof with exfat...
650D try this NR trick!
Only blinking dots focus peaking works. Haven't found a fix for display filters yet.
With frame skipping turned off I get continuous 24fps with a Sandisk 45 MB/sec card at 1024 x 576. The resolution right above it 1088x640 stops after 41 frames. The highest resolution 1728x672 stops after 24 frames, again at 24fps.
I have not read anything on workflow so I will research further but I used raw2dng then imported to Lightroom 5 beta, adjusted, exported to TIFF, imported to FCPX, created an image sequence, changed duration to 1 frame each in a 720p @ 24fps project, then exported to youtube.
http://youtu.be/l3LKaB-97JQ
I don't know why there are red dots in the middle but they are in the dng files right out of raw2dng. Like I said I will research this further maybe this is a known issue in other cameras since I only have the M and the 7d this is my first attempt at raw video.
:) I also make it work on my EOS M but since my card is only 30MB/s max resolution is 880x496. I have those red dots as @mdwhaley
Can't wait for next update.
Thanks!
When I import DNG into Photoshop, my image looks too wide or squeezed:
(http://f.cl.ly/items/2e0i2o0d2Q0e3f041L2A/000008.jpg)
Am I missing some option in ML?
Dots and stuff are from af.. have to experiment with turning them off.. they are a problem on all cameras in a few different forms.
Have to see what is up with the squeezing... big problem with EOS-M is its pretty much 720P mode all the time without the fps..
I figured the dots were from AF. I put an M lens on and turned AF mode to MF in the menu, then put an EF lens back on switched to MF and still get dots. The AF sensor must be on all the time even when MF is set all around.
Quote from: 1% on June 05, 2013, 07:25:40 AM
Dots and stuff are from af.. have to experiment with turning them off.. they are a problem on all cameras in a few different forms.
Have to see what is up with the squeezing... big problem with EOS-M is its pretty much 720P mode all the time without the fps..
Its phase detection AF... will have to try different types or af_raw and see if it gives peaking sprinkles or if its ok.
There are 3 more blue work units when multi shot NR is turned on... the 6D trick of putting bvram into shoot malloc to get them to free doesn't work... just shuts down LV.
So total theoretical memory is 6*~32 unless its just a mirror.
I am now getting 1280x480 continuously. The aspect ratio is 2.5:1. Go up to 2.39:1 and stops at 44 frames. I am currently processing a clip but the squeeze and pink dots are still there but 1280x480 is pretty nice.
Battery is charging... I'll see if I can do anything w/ pink dots or MZ while recording H264.
Zoom mode its not stretched... but its hella hard to get into when the memory thing is done and menu nor rec work..
Are dots gone?
EOSM getting an update... hopefully they improved the software. We'll have to start the fun all over again.
Is there a new version with the dots bug fixed? I think the squeeze is even more annoying, because as long as it's squeezed there is no chance to test how much quality is possible with the eos m.
Anyone tested lower framerates (maybe 18 or 16) and then strech it to 24fps with slowmovideo or any similar software? If there isn't to fast motion this may work.
Is 1728 the absolute maximum possible horizontal resolution?
There is a bug with the zoom, if fps override is active. After zooming in it works for a moment and then the screen doesn't get updated anymore, until you zoom out again. Don't know if this bug is already known.
Anyone ever tried what the limit of the sd-controller in the eos m is? Will it be possible to get more than 24-26MB/s with a faster sd-card like the Sandisk Extreme Pro?
I hope they improved the autofocus in the new firmware as much as they say. Since the update seems to mainly change stuff at the autofocus system it shouldn't interfere that much with magic lantern, or do you think it will?
Quote from: mixer2 on June 06, 2013, 09:35:55 PM
Is there a new version with the dots bug fixed? I think the squeeze is even more annoying, because as long as it's squeezed there is no chance to test how much quality is possible with the eos m.
Anyone tested lower framerates (maybe 18 or 16) and then strech it to 24fps with slowmovideo or any similar software? If there isn't to fast motion this may work.
Is 1728 the absolute maximum possible horizontal resolution?
There is a bug with the zoom, if fps override is active. After zooming in it works for a moment and then the screen doesn't get updated anymore, until you zoom out again. Don't know if this bug is already known.
Anyone ever tried what the limit of the sd-controller in the eos m is? Will it be possible to get more than 24-26MB/s with a faster sd-card like the Sandisk Extreme Pro?
I hope they improved the autofocus in the new firmware as much as they say. Since the update seems to mainly change stuff at the autofocus system it shouldn't interfere that much with magic lantern, or do you think it will?
hello there, I've just got my M yesterday and begin testing a few minute ago.
first experiences like yours. I've expected more with digic5, because I already got 20MB/s with 550D (I've sold one of my 550D's to get M) a bit disappointed when I open DNGs on Photoshop, all red-pink-magenta-blue dots random at the scene... tried lots and lots of combinations but no luck, still gettin them, really annoying.
I've tested lower frame-rates even down to 2,5fps, if you adjust sth lower than 20fps image turns to pinkenta, I don't like it, but after effects corrects it nicely. another problem is frame stretched, 2:1 image looks like 3:1 its a bit annoying too, but software handles that too.
I've never experienced the zoom-bug problem, had trouble on 550D when RAW video module on, but M works fine.
I'm using Sandisk Extreme 45MB/s version and got stable 29,7MB/s recording rate. I don't think sandisk extreme pro 95MB/s helps, because its controllers max output rate (if its same as 650D) 50MB/s and on video you can get max 31MB/s peak. (you have to low level format to get max performance out of sandisk extreme series)
if/when they release the new firmware for AF speed and other stuff (new lens I think) we have to start all over again to crack the codes of canon.
M is a nice compact camera but gets too hot in short time (experimented about 30minutes and it was 38^C).
I've found a 2 bugs, one on sensor temp, my sensor always shows level above 100^C, I hope you can fix it. another on modules folder, if you put more than 1 module, camera never loads RAW module.
focus points
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/p480x480/943788_659327730749325_1038439508_n.jpg)
The sheet on http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215 says, that the eos m sd-controller can handle up to 40mb/s. Is that real with a fast enough sd card, or more a theoretical value?
Its like 6D controller.. so sandisk 45MB/s is the fastest.. Still getting the dots? I'll try some more thinks. I think it needs a custom module with unsqueeze all the time..
So it will load a single module all the time? The only way all modules load for me is cold boot in video mode.
Is the version from June 03 the most recent version? If yes in that version are still dots.
I use a sandisk 45MB/s and get ~26mb/s.
If i start recording while in zoomed (5x or 10x), or zoom while recording, the recording stops.
June 5th is the latest.... look for updates in the repo.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5D%20Less%20Lag%20Fileman.zip
I thought you guys new to look there.
I saw that there was another zip, but since the name didn't contain the word raw, like the others, i thought, that it doesn't address any raw video bugs.
I'll try the new version.
All contain raw and latest raw commits pushed and at least slightly tested. So if no raw commits to main or TL6D then probably no raw related changes.. otherwise raw related changes.
Dots are gone in that version, nice!
Still squeezed and zoom still stops recording.
Oh, not be able to record while zoomed was my fault. I switched back to movie mode before i started to record. Recording zoomed in photo mode does work.
I did some more tests and now, as i didn't use it the wrong way anymore ;), it records 30p 1280x544 without dots and not sqeezed. It continously writes ~ 35mb/s on the sd-card (tested 2 times with 1000 frames each, buffer is manly 1 * sometimes the secound * shows up for a moment, Sandisk 45MB/s sd-card used).
FPS override still doesn't work for me? Any hints? If i activate fps override zoom won't work at all. It just freezes the screen. If that would work even higher resolutions should be possible, shouldn't they?
30p 1280x592 (2.20:1) seems to be the absolute maximum for continous recording on the eos m (37 mb/s).
Okey, if i zoom in first and then activate raw video and fps override i can start recording, but the results are weird (preview is freezed while recording, but the raw video info refrehes)...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/7n58ggvkcz2nb7i/000000.jpg)
Is there any way to get an unsqueezed image with fps override, for recording 24p, so far? And is there any way to preview what is actually recorded, while it's recording?
1280x592 30p fills slowly the buffer, so 1280x544 30p seems to be the maximum.
I added the possible values to:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215
Don't do 30P... do high jello fast TV until I figure out the timings for zooooom mode. First digicV camera that has different ones... we won't get better image until I figure out how to turn LV into recording LV all the time.
Dots are gone but no sprinkles, right?
1280x544 resized to 1280x720 looks fine but there are some red dots on the edges of white objects:
(http://f.cl.ly/items/1T1K3r1v0f2w3F262v3v/000000.jpg)
high jello works great, thx.
don't know what you exactly with sprinkles mean. everything looks quite correct. i can upload some examples if they help.
Is there any way to get the unzoomed result while recording in 5x zoom, so far? Or has to squeeze bug to be solved first?
Great work guys.
I think canon give us a new firmware. :D
http://www.canon.co.nz/About-Canon/News-Events/News-Press-Releases/EOS-M-Firmware?cid=scfbnz1306004 (http://www.canon.co.nz/About-Canon/News-Events/News-Press-Releases/EOS-M-Firmware?cid=scfbnz1306004)
What aspect ratio should it be? I think handling normal lv like 720P mode will kinda fix this.
At a glance I have no dots, just the squeeze at 1280x480. Again, only a glance, short on time this weekend
Quote from: hercules85 on June 08, 2013, 02:27:16 AM
I think canon give us a new firmware.
http://www.canon.co.nz/About-Canon/News-Events/News-Press-Releases/EOS-M-Firmware?cid=scfbnz1306004 (http://www.canon.co.nz/About-Canon/News-Events/News-Press-Releases/EOS-M-Firmware?cid=scfbnz1306004)
Sounds very good news :)
Quote from: 1% on June 08, 2013, 04:05:50 AM
What aspect ratio should it be? I think handling normal lv like 720P mode will kinda fix this.
16:9 video is also squeezed without zoom. this is a 16:9 setting (even if magic lantern doesn't exactly record 16:9):
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/x0vucfyb2b2hfxv/16-9.jpg)
the pattern on the floor should be quadratic.
same resolution (nearly 16:9), but with 5x zoom:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/1yamm5yeklh9c1n/16-9_5x.jpg)
result is not squeezed, but a very narrow angle of view (like 5x digital zoom).
Quote from: xpstudio on June 07, 2013, 08:54:03 PM
1280x544 resized to 1280x720 looks fine but there are some red dots on the edges of white objects:
(http://f.cl.ly/items/1T1K3r1v0f2w3F262v3v/000000.jpg)
Pink/Green dots = edge detection debug stuff still enabled >:(
Yea and we have to find a different raw type.. I turn this off and its much much worse.
*Did you find a good rawtype for 650D? Or did MD_visible take out the af dots?
BTW, new build is up hopefully set to unseqeeze all the time (not zoom)... dunno if it helps.
Maybe it's my fault, but i still get squeezed results without zoom. Do i have to use a special resolution or aspect ratio. Or do i have to activate any special option?
Oh and i asked it on the other thread, but here again: May it be possible in far future to get interlaced recording. For example 1728x992 24i. With not to fast motion, that may lead to better results than 1216x672 24p if it's converted to 1080p.
I did some more tests and it seems that the vertical resolution is reduced by the factor ~1,65 all the time (maybe that information helps to find the bug). So in post, just strech the image by factor 1,65 in the vertical and you'll get an unsqueezed image. So for 16:9 it's at the moment best to record 3:1. And then strech it to 16:9 in post. For example recording 1664x560 and then unsqueeze it to 1920x1080.
Now, that i know the factor to unsqueeze in post i did a small comparison to see if the current quality you can get with the eos m is already better than h.264. It was quite dark, so quality of all 3 is not at it's maximum.
The first is standard profile, with just some sharpening in post. The second is technicolor cinestyle with s-curve, increased saturation and bit more sharpening. The third is the raw video recorded in 1664x560 24p, unsqueezed and scaled up to 1920x1080. Added some noise filtering and other stuff in darktable to reduce noise and pink dots at the edges.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/eeuvfx47y0qktif/compare.webm
The postprocessing isn't optimal, since i'm not at the pc i've the correct video editing software installed (that's also the reason why i removed the noise in the raw images instead of the video, etc). I'll do a better testvideo tomorrow.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 08, 2013, 09:14:20 PM
Now, that i know the factor to unsqueeze in post i did a small comparison to see if the current quality you can get with the eos m is already better than h.264. It was quite dark, so quality of all 3 is not at it's maximum.
The first is standard profile, with just some sharpening in post. The second is technicolor cinestyle with s-curve, increased saturation and bit more sharpening. The third is the raw video recorded in 1664x560 24p, unsqueezed and scaled up to 1920x1080. Added some noise filtering and other stuff in darktable to reduce noise and pink dots at the edges.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/eeuvfx47y0qktif/compare.webm
The postprocessing isn't optimal, since i'm not at the pc i've the correct video editing software installed (that's also the reason why i removed the noise in the raw images instead of the video, etc). I'll do a better testvideo tomorrow.
Which card you are using when you can record 1664x560 24p? The best I can do is 1280x544 with SONY 94 MB/s - 16GB card
Did squeeze change though... it should "unsqueeze" all the time... but not sure if thats just a meta data setting. I'll have to experiment some more. So its like 5:3 ratio?
Hi could someone guide me on how to load ML raw capability on my EOS M.
My workflow till now:
1. I copied Alpha 1 on the SD card.
2. Replaced it autoexe file and pasted the module from the latest upgrade available.
Now can do HDR and other stuff but cannot figure out the RAW workflow.
Quote from: 1% on June 09, 2013, 06:41:50 AM
Did squeeze change though... it should "unsqueeze" all the time... but not sure if thats just a meta data setting. I'll have to experiment some more. So its like 5:3 ratio?
[EOSM] Better I hope.zip:
- it's still squeezed
- it's more like 3:1 ratio
xpstudio sounds like you've not activated multishot nr, or you're not in photomode. i did the same mistake.
read this post from 1% and do exactly what he wrote (and don't switch back to movie mode afterwards, raw video recording has to be done in photo mode):
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg45050#msg45050
"Canon eos m"... just read that post too, it's explained there how it works.
1% it's squeezed by 5:3, yes. 1664/5:560/3 = 333:187 ~ 16:9. What exactly does "it should "unsqueeze" all the time... but not sure if that's just a meta data setting." mean? isn't it recording the correct aspect ratio anyways, but it's streched in the raw2dng converter? isn't it possible to just record the correct pixels, that it doesn't have to get "unsqueezed"?
any comments about if interleaved recording might be possible in far future? Of course this might lead to some trouble with the bayer matrix, since each line contains only blue or red color info. But this information can be calculated in the deinterlacing process. Alternativly recording 2 lines and then skipping two lines should solve the problem. Or don't you think we can get better results with an interlaced feature? i think with not or slow moving objects we can just get double of the resolution.
720P mode on other cameras is the same (but 30P vs 60P).. the image in the raw buffer is really squeezed like that (not square pixels).. something has to unsqueeze it.. right now unsqueezing for 16*9 so thats why its still wrong.
Interlaced I doubt.. i guess it could move the zoom box, but no way is it fast enough.. 60P on SD cameras sucks all around. Only hope is switching LV to another mode.. I did it on 600D and got a big YUV buffer in photo mode for a while just have to find out how (not that easy).
Sorry, i can just guess, since i don't know anything about canon firmware internals. Just thought you read it anyway bit-by-bit or pixel-by-pixel from the buffer and it might be possible to just modify the index that it skips some pixels. But that seems not to be the case.
So best chance to get more pixels without fast motion is to record less fps and interpolate the missing frames with slowmovideo in post.
So quality won't improve by solving the squeezing bug anyways? Then the only bug that reduces quality at the moment is the edge detection stuff, isn't it? As soon as that is resolved we will see the maximum of quality we can get out of the eos-m.
Thanks mixer2, I was in video mode all the time.
I'm wondering how you managed to record in 1600x540? I'm using SONY 94MB/s and can't write more than 33MB/s - 1280x544 (with a few skipped frames) is max I can get in 23.976 frames.
Have you activated multishot nr? When you start recording, you'll see one of the messages "Alloc 29+21" or "Alloc 32+32+29" at the bottom left for a moment. Which one do you get?
1280x544 doesn't need 33mb/s, just ~ 27mb/s. Do you have raw sound recording activated, which does cause additional data?
I do use a Sandisk 45mb/s, but i don't think that your card speed is the problem.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 09, 2013, 11:00:11 AM
Have you activated multishot nr? When you start recording, you'll see one of the messages "Alloc 29+21" or "Alloc 32+32+29" at the bottom left for a moment. Which one do you get?
1280x544 doesn't need 33mb/s, just ~ 27mb/s. Do you have raw sound recording activated, which does cause additional data?
I do use a Sandisk 45mb/s, but i don't think that your card speed is the problem.
Not sure where to activate 'multishot nr'? I see "Alloc 29+21"
found it ;)
Okey, nice...
I made a small video, that shows the steps to start recording, maybe this will help someone. I think it's easier to understand than in text form, since recording video in photo mode is not what you would expect first. I'm not sure, if the battery has to be removed every time, but i always start with removing battery to get a clean starting point and avoid problems.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/s3o76x7h0t7u0s3/startrawrec.webm
Wow I feel stupid, I had the wrong noise reduction set. Now I am getting 1408x608 @ 23.976 continuous on a Sandisk 45MB/sec card. Really though since vertical resolution is maxed at 688 I like 1280x688 and it seems to not even use much of the buffer on that resolution
When I turn on the power on my EOS M, I get the error "scripts dir missing". Is this of any concern.
Second, I have installed Alpha 1 and the Modules with the upgraded autoexe file on the EOS M. Any idea on how to use this combo for recording RAW video.
Whatever you folks discuss on this forum is technically challenging for me to understand. Is there a simple workflow video where I could learn to do this?
For raw recording you've to download this file:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]%20Better%20I%20hope.zip
Overwrite the autoexec.bin on your sd-card with the one from the zip.
Then copy the two directories "SCRIPTS" and "MODULES" from the zip into the "ML" directory on your sd-card. (This will also solve the missing scripts dir warning)
Put the sd-card in your camera and you're ready to go. For activating raw recording check the video i posted 2 posts above.
I've install ML on my new EOS-M. When i enable touch shutter, the camera froze and now normal shutter button don't work. Focusing work on half-press but camera don't take any picture when full press. Can anyone help me. I read all the thread in this post and i've install the new autoexec.bin but nothing work. I'm freaking out.
Thank you Mixer2.
Error sorted and ML updated to latest. Now will try and follow you other instructions to see if I can manage to run RAW video on the EOS M.
Hi Escaperoute,
Follow the instructions here:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5520.0
This link provides a checklist of files that should be on the SD card to run ML trouble free.
Hope this helps.
After a scaring period, now my 22mm eos m lens work, but only after i format the memory card and remove magic latern. By the way i can't uninstall ML. I follow the instruction but ML just install again.
But i can't get the 18-55 mm lens to work. It focus in half press but i can't take any shot with it. I saw something similar problem in this post but i've install the newest autoexec.bin but i can't get 18-55 mm lens to work.
Is there something happen to my lens.
With 22mm lens touch shutter work but with 18-55 m lens camera froze. Power button don't seem to work. Only after removing the battery camera seem to work. Can anyone HELP ME.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 09, 2013, 05:48:10 PM
For raw recording you've to download this file:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]%20Better%20I%20hope.zip
Overwrite the autoexec.bin on your sd-card with the one from the zip.
Then copy the two directories "SCRIPTS" and "MODULES" from the zip into the "ML" directory on your sd-card. (This will also solve the missing scripts dir warning)
Put the sd-card in your camera and you're ready to go. For activating raw recording check the video i posted 2 posts above.
Not sure how I can get to the Modules on my EOS M.
When I two finger tap the touch screen, the complete ML menu comes up but the Modules screen is nowhere to be seen. What am I doing wrong?
Heh, shutter release bug is a canon bug... thats why they are push a new firmware.
22mm and lots of other lenses working here like normal.
Has the latest version any interesting changes? Disabled edge detection dots or fixed unsqueeze?
Yea, I set it to 5:3 and tried 5d3 rawtype.. hopefully it worked, if not we'll look for another ratio/rawtype.
I not thinking that shutter release bug is canon's coz when i remove the battery for 30 min or so and format the memory card, clear the camera setting with 22 mm attach and again clear the setting with 18-55 mm attach then shutter work fine for 18-55.
But i want to know what the bug is so i just install ML again and same thing happen. Right now i'm repeating the process all over again. Hope my 18-55 mm work again.
I'm gonna try the ML only after firmware 2.0 release and ML for EOS-M gets a new release. I sincerely hope canon and you guys can squash the bug and make a good camera perfect.
I'm greatful for all the dev hardwork and i'm enjoying my raw video for my 550D.
I hope after the much needed firmware update get release, ML devs gonna pay much needed attention for EOS-M.
Anyway you guys rock. Because of you guys i'm loving canon.
Hi Mixer2 & 1%,
How do I activate the Modules on my screen for RAW video activation. The two finger tap does not bring up the modules window.
@"Canon eos m" the modules window is the last tap on the normal ML menu. So just click "right" in ML menu, till you get to it.
@1%: Nice, i'll try as soon as i'm at home and report.
Dots on this one are back
Quote from: 1% on June 09, 2013, 07:36:35 PM
Yea, I set it to 5:3 and tried 5d3 rawtype.. hopefully it worked, if not we'll look for another ratio/rawtype.
according to my last tests and your advices, I can get 25fps @ 1728x576 with frame skipping on, it skips 20 frames on 400, records at about 37.8MB/s continuously to Sandisk Extreme 45MB/s (low-level formatted) card. I'm now processing the files, I'll share the results if I have AF dots on the frames.
yup, dots are back:
(http://f.cl.ly/items/400E292P3R1W2s2X2T35/Screen%20Shot%202013-06-09%20at%2011.10.11%20AM.png)
Heh, so will have to try something else... stupid phase detection. Damned if you do, damned if you don't.
do you think we can mask that dots on after effects with 2nd layer and some sharpening?
You can try.. I'm going to run the rawtype test and see if any have no detection and no dots.. what is better tho, assuming we can't turn it off, the outlines or the dots.. .to me the outlines seem better/easier to mask.
just did, its killing the cpu and results still suck. you're right, we have to seek another option.
So raw_type is causing high cpu usage? Did all 100 types go through?
no no, after effects killing the cpu :) it really doesn't worth to wait 1hour render for 15sec video
I see...the dots are really hard to mask, the edge detection usually comes out with noise removal.
I found this to be the best settings at the moment:
(http://f.cl.ly/items/2z1V2g0w1M3n1e2L0E07/cam-settings.jpg)
and then in AE, I resized it to 1600X900. Looks fine but there are green/red dots around edges of the subject and I'm not sure how to remove them in AE. Tried with Magic Bullet Denoiser but without luck.
I do force left.. thought about switching it on by default.. dunno what people are using though. GD off I dunno if people need on digic V. Did it increase write speed any.
Frame skipping I don't use, I'd rather it stop than randomly stutter.
Quote from: 1% on June 10, 2013, 12:57:13 AM
..GD off I dunno if people need on digic V. Did it increase write speed any...
with GD off I'm getting almost 18,5MB/s continuous write rates on same memory card (sandisk extreme 45MB/s 16GB) on 550D, but now I can see it can almost make 37MB/s average write rate on EOS M.. %100 performance increase if you ask me.
but I think I have to sell my all equipment and wait for 5D Mark III prices go down a bit. because 550D stuck at 20MB/s level and have to use twixtor to upscale frame rate from 12-17 to 24fps, and EOS M has little AF dots middle of video and takes forever to mask them on After Effects..
Quote from: mixer2 on June 09, 2013, 07:52:59 PM
@"Canon eos m" the modules window is the last tap on the normal ML menu. So just click "right" in ML menu, till you get to it.
@1%: Nice, i'll try as soon as i'm at home and report.
I don't see the normal ML menu on my screen. After loading the latest upgrades of the autoexe.bin and modules I only see an excel sheet like menu with no modules section.
You hit junkie mode.. hit menu again.
I wouldn't give up on M yet, still have a chance at fixing some of this + new firmware update from canon.
Quote from: 1% on June 10, 2013, 03:51:39 AM
I wouldn't give up on M yet, still have a chance at fixing some of this + new firmware update from canon.
of course, its just a 5 day old camera :) not selling it before it takes 50000 photos. I wonder if it has that problem on 550D, mirror-curtain (of course it doesn't have the mirror but, there is still a curtain inside) wearing with highspeed continuous photo shooting.
Quote from: 1% on June 10, 2013, 03:51:39 AM
You hit junkie mode.. hit menu again.
I wouldn't give up on M yet, still have a chance at fixing some of this + new firmware update from canon.
Thanks again 1%. Looks like now I am all set to proceed to the next phase of my journey. Will keep you posted of any issues during this phase.
For all those that need to learn the basics of RAW / HDR video the EOS M can be a deadly companion waiting to be exploited. Being able to do even 50% of those $4000++ devices out there says a lot.
The ML team and developers have just taken the whole Canon ecosystem by the horns and made photography so much more fun. And now Canon has promised an update to fix the focusing issues.
This is the best time to be alive! The best thing for me was joining the ecosystem and be able to draw and draw till my brain cannot take anymore.
These recent days, I figured out a way to make my 5D Mark 3 RAW capable using the ML upgrade. I tried taking a few videos with it using a Class 10 95MB/s Scandisk SD Card. I now manage to capture about 100 frames before the buffer runs out. Don't know why and don't know what it means not to be able to do more .... but .... the fact that I recorded RAW has got me loving it and wanting more.
God knows how I want to learn to take better videos and show these off to the world.
I also feel a part of the ML team in some strange way. Feels like everyone involved has one aim - to make everyone else more equipped so that the world can come as one to produce amazing pictures and films.
The day in not far when ML will be spoken about as a team that changed the world forever!
The day is not far when some of us will produce their first full length feature film and release it to commercial success and possibly win an OSCAR!
sd-cards (at least the controllers in the cameras for the sd-cards) are to slow for the high resolutions you can get with 5d mark iii. so use a fast cf-card to get continuous recording...
Ordered the Komputerbay CF 128GB 1000x. Should be delivered any day now.
Quote from: Canon eos m on June 10, 2013, 01:20:31 PM
Ordered the Komputerbay CF 128GB 1000x. Should be delivered any day now.
to use on EOS M? or just kidding?
anyone experienced frame drops on HDR video at high-bitrate (I'm using 9.0x now with sandisk extreme 45MB/s) ?
This might be a problem with sync being different while recording.. ie MZ isn't in sync anymore so HDR might not be either. Did you try with normal rates? All I've gotten from EOS-M is way under max write of the card. Find an easily reproducible way to make it fail and I'll be able to test. Also does it have the problem with HDR raw?
Quote from: 1% on June 10, 2013, 04:31:49 PM
This might be a problem with sync being different while recording.. ie MZ isn't in sync anymore so HDR might not be either. Did you try with normal rates? All I've gotten from EOS-M is way under max write of the card. Find an easily reproducible way to make it fail and I'll be able to test. Also does it have the problem with HDR raw?
yeah, I've forgot to ask, where I can get that module. because I only have raw_rec.mo and MAGIC.SYM.
Had no time to test the version from yesterday until now. As others said before, the dots are back. And it's still squeezed.
I think the problem is, that 16/9 (~1,77) is nearly the same as 5/3 (1,66) so we don't see much difference. The 5/3 is the relative squeeze factor for the already unsqueezed 16/9. 16/9 has to be unsqueezed by factor 5/3 not 1/1.
9*5/3 = 15... => the correct absolute unsqueeze factor should be 16/15.
let's assume the measurement wasn't perfect and we additionally lost some accuracy with rounding i think it's just 16/16 => 1/1.
I think it doesn't have to be unsqueezed at all. The problem was the unsqueeze factor of 16/9 which squeezed it to nearly 50% height.
Just a guess.... but that's how it looks like for me.
the real question is, how canon manages to record video without AF dots.
because you know, there must be an optical shift.
Quote from: qsara on June 10, 2013, 04:18:03 PM
anyone experienced frame drops on HDR video at high-bitrate (I'm using 9.0x now with sandisk extreme 45MB/s) ?
On my 5D M3.
I did unsqueeze of 5:3 so it would be multiplied by 3/5... I'll try 16:15 next I guess. I'll go back to af_raw if none of the raw types remove the dots.
Try 1/1, i think 16/15 is a measurement inaccuracy... I just took a video of a circle and measured, how much it's squeezed. It's not a very accurate way of getting the squeeze factor. And 16/15 is so near to 16/16 or 1/1, that i can't imagine, that the difference doesn't come from inaccuracy because of the measurement.
Quote from: qsara on June 10, 2013, 02:42:42 PM
to use on EOS M? or just kidding?
hope he knows eos m uses sd not cf
read the posts above... he wondered why his 5d3 wasn't able to record continuously in high resolution, while using sd-card. it was just OT.
1:1 is no unsqueze at all, just like default.
So no raw type helps.. dots come on. AF_RAW gets rid of dots but causes the "peaking" effect.
exactly... i think the unsqueezing was the reason why it was squeezed. The current factor is 5/3. if i take a frame (1280x688) and undo the 5/3 squeezing i get 688*5/3 ~= 1146. If i resize it to 1280x1146, it looks just perfectly unsqueezed.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 10, 2013, 07:22:52 PM
read the posts above... he wondered why his 5d3 wasn't able to record continuously in high resolution, while using sd-card. it was just OT.
I don't have a 5D.III troll. read my signature.
this is an EOS M thread and I'm talking about it. you're the one writing about your 5D.III. go that thread and write you've ordered whatever for your camera.
You quoted "Canon eos m" and he has. I just gave him an answer to his question, even if it was OT...
Quote from: Canon eos m on June 10, 2013, 10:16:09 AM
These recent days, I figured out a way to make my 5D Mark 3 RAW capable using the ML upgrade. I tried taking a few videos with it using a Class 10 95MB/s Scandisk SD Card. I now manage to capture about 100 frames before the buffer runs out. Don't know why and don't know what it means not to be able to do more .... but .... the fact that I recorded RAW has got me loving it and wanting more.
I've quoted %1 and asked about modules, read the post, again, and again, then again.
Quote from: qsara on June 10, 2013, 02:42:42 PM
Quote from: Canon eos m on June 10, 2013, 01:20:31 PM
Ordered the Komputerbay CF 128GB 1000x. Should be delivered any day now.
to use on EOS M? or just kidding?
Are you kidding now?
Original was not unsqueezed and it still had to be resized to be fixed.
Some new hope in the dead pixel remover that just got committed. Next one I guess I'll just do no unsqueeze and fix it in post.
hurm, then i really don't understand it at all.
what's in the source:
int correct_height = max_res_x * 3 / 5;
and we get a squeezed 1280x688 what looks perfectly unsqueezed when resized to 1280x1146.
correct_height = 688
max_res_x => 688/3*5 ~= 1147
if you use:
int correct_height = max_res_x;
correct_height should be 1147 or 1146, depends how it's rounded.
and 1280x1146 (or 1280x1147) should be the result, which should look perfectly unsqueezed. what exactly is wrong in my calculation?
Will try it and see what happens.
I hope it will work. As said before, i don't know anything about how all the stuff works... just playing around with the numbers and guess a solution :D
Shouldn't be int correct_height = max_res_x * 2 / 3 ?
The image covers usually a 3:2 or a 16:9 area. I don't see why Canon would have designed it for 5:3... and from the dng posted a while ago, with the square floor pattern, it should be 3:2.
The image was 1152x656, but it was already unsqueezed by factor 16/9.
To undo that 656*16/9 = 1166
Then do the 3/2 unsqueeze:
1166*2/3 = 777
But if you resize it to 1152x777 it still looks squeezed.
What's a bit strange is, that if i use the undone 1166 height, it's minimal vertically streched. But, if i do the undo calculation with 5/3:
656*5/3 = 1093 and i resize the image to 1152x1093 and it's perfectly unsqueezed. So 1:1 might be not perfect.
So i'm back at the:
int correct_height = max_res_x * 15 / 16;
still just guessing, sorry...
It's 1728x672, resize to 3:2 (1728x1152) and it looks OK to me.
(http://a1ex.magiclantern.fm/bleeding-edge/raw/eosm.jpg)
Ok, got it.. so its 3:2...
hurm... that does look correct... but how have you exactly calculated the 1728x1152?
672*16/9*2/3 = 796
don't know what i do wrong... but... if you know the solution everything is good xD
is one of you in the irc, to discuss that more directly than in the forum. would love to understand what i did wrong.
Ah, i see. you calculated it with the width:
1728/3*2.... but... when the source, at the time the frame was taken, was:
int correct_height = max_res_x * 9 / 16;
why was the resulting vertical resolution 672???
1728*9/16 = 972
If it was 5/3 that time it wouldn't result in 672 too.
Okey, tested the new version.
2 things are annoying:
1. have to disable and reenable "Use photo mode", to enable raw recording
2. the guessing mb/s guess in the menu is completely different from the one mb/s it shows while recording (22mb/s vs ~37mb/s). don't know which one is correct.
The dngs we get are still squeezed, but it tells in the menu that it has to be unsqueezed in post (with the correct ratio). Is that how it should be. Will the unsqueezing never be done automatically and has to be done in post all the time?
Heh, set it on by default.. .will have to fix it so it actually switches to fake movie mode.
Hi,
I just can't seem to uninstall ML on my camera completely, i follow all the instruction completely.
I have some experience with ML, it run smoothly on my 550D but on my EOS-M 18-55 mm shutter release bug is really annoying.
When i install the ML on my camera. it run smoothly, but when i enter the Menu setting i can't seem to find firmware update option with ML signature like on my 550D, when i update with ML memory card installed it just install ML again, Maybe bootflag cannot be remove.
22mm lens work fine. But i use 18-55 mm mostly, can anyone help me. i've read all the post but nothing seem to help me. I'm freaking out again since my 18-55 mm lens work sometime and sometime it just don't with or without ML on SD card.
Quote from: Escaperoute on June 10, 2013, 10:12:21 PM
Hi,
I just can't seem to uninstall ML on my camera completely, i follow all the instruction completely.
I have some experience with ML, it run smoothly on my 550D but on my EOS-M 18-55 mm shutter release bug is really annoying.
When i install the ML on my camera. it run smoothly, but when i enter the Menu setting i can't seem to find firmware update option with ML signature like on my 550D, when i update with ML memory card installed it just install ML again, Maybe bootflag cannot be remove.
22mm lens work fine. But i use 18-55 mm mostly, can anyone help me. i've read all the post but nothing seem to help me. I'm freaking out again since my 18-55 mm lens work sometime and sometime it just don't with or without ML on SD card.
copy all the files on your card to your computer,
format the card (if exfat) to fat32, (if fat32) to exfat,
move all the files again to the card,
use EOSCard utility to make your card bootable for magic lantern,
insert the card to the camera, use firmware update option, when you see the green text just switch to movie or photo mode.
Thanks for the fast reply,
But what i'm trying to do is to get the ML loaded on my camera with 18-55 mm lens working, i've successfully uninstalled it but i can't seem to get it work with 18-55 mm attached.
Any comment??
The lens thing is a bug I think.. hence canon update... all of my normal lenses work with the adapter and so does the pancake... btw modules seem to load up in photo mode now.
Quote from: Escaperoute on June 10, 2013, 10:36:36 PM
Thanks for the fast reply,
But what i'm trying to do is to get the ML loaded on my camera with 18-55 mm lens working, i've successfully uninstalled it but i can't seem to get it work with 18-55 mm attached.
Any comment??
no problem, I don't have 18-55 and don't have any idea what you are experiencing on EOS M, you have to wait for the update end-of-june from canon. maybe they'll fix it.
1% is it how it should be, that unsqueezing has to be done manually in post?
It appears so.. I guess not much use then :(
How is edge detection + new "dead" pixel removing chdk-dng.c Does it do anything... it didn't fix the dots I think so its back to outlines.
You need to mark the af dots first for it to work (set them to 0 in raw buffer).
Problem is not sure if they show up in the same spot every time.
Looks like the EOS-M has a dedicated movie mode: http://www.dpreview.com/previews/canon-eos-m/images/top.jpg
What's wrong with it? why do you have to record in photo mode?
I want to get rid of this hack, because it's giving me lots of trouble on the other cameras.
Thanks Mixer2, 1% and A1ex - I finally managed my first workable RAW video with my EOS M running ML.
I notice the red dots you folks have been discussing since the past few days. Doesn't bother me yet since I am on the learning curve and enjoying every moment.
http://youtu.be/JgXleWpahM8
As far as I can tell it's the only way to get the largest buffer possible. Maybe I'm wrong
Quote from: a1ex on June 11, 2013, 01:12:02 PM
Looks like the EOS-M has a dedicated movie mode: http://www.dpreview.com/previews/canon-eos-m/images/top.jpg
What's wrong with it? why do you have to record in photo mode?
I want to get rid of this hack, because it's giving me lots of trouble on the other cameras.
How big is the buffer in movie mode and how big is in photo mode?
Also the max resolution, does it change?
29+21 in movie mode and 32+32+29 with the multishot nr trick in photo mode.
resolution seems to be the same. I get exactly the same values in photo or movie mode, if nr is not multishot. the only difference is, that if multishot nr is active the buffer is nearly double the size. and that's not possible in movie mode.
may it help to check some option configurations in movie mode, if there is also something that frees up some space?
Okay... the biggest problem is that exposure in photo mode is not using the parameters you have set in menu, but something with equivalent brightness and usually wide-open.
Sure, you may say you don't care about that, but in that case you can just record H.264.
Another trouble is that I don't like the code complexity increase because of this; on the cameras that don't need it, I want to keep things simple and just record in movie mode.
hurm... is there no way to permanently activate dof-preview? the exposure settings should be correct then, shouldn't they?
what's with exp override, anyone said, that this solves the problem.
i never checked, if it uses the correct settings so far, since the quality isn't usable anyways so far.
Yes, expo override helps. If ML says Mv in the bottom-left corner, it should be OK.
Expo override should close down the aperture.
50D too.. doesn't really seem like movie mode. On M in movie mode you can barely record anything because of the memory. The 1 buffer and a few MB actually makes a big difference.
I'm not sure but, it seems its possible to hack RAW buffer, because camera can take 5 RAW images, if you count each of them 25MB then you'll have 125MB buffer, seems enough to keep some data and capture more frames. anyone working on that?
A quality comparison of the current version:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/4ehwn2rrv8jmrjl/detail_comparison.png)
raw at the top and h.264 at the bottom. i think with eos-m raw video it will not be possible to get more details than with h.264, will it? are there still things left, that may increase the quality that much? Or is there something wrong with my post?
so raw video on eos-m will make sense if there is need for a lot of dynamic range or to extend the focal length with the digital zoom. but results doesn't look very pleasant, so far.
to me, even this is a huge step.
(http://fc07.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/162/0/d/comp_compare_by_weraqs-d68njig.jpg)
processed a 1280x544 Total 542 Frame RAW Video. I like it, but still, there are some problems with framerate.
Yea, there is a chance for more buffer if the blue blocks can be recovered.
Hello great people,
Even with the help of nanomad (thx btw), I wasn't able to get 'make zip' to go through on the nightly repo. The makefile simply doesn't have an "x:" instruction. I want to try this stuff out on my new EOS M but the Alpha posted in the original post doesn't bring up a menu. From what I understand, the trash button should bring up the ML menu, right? Anyway, could someone comment on how newbies such as myself could follow along, and report bugs, with the latest and greatest from ML?
Ciao!
2 finger tap the lcd screen to bring up ML menu on EOS M
Quote from: jerrykil on June 12, 2013, 02:55:16 AM
Hello great people,
Even with the help of nanomad (thx btw), I wasn't able to get 'make zip' to go through on the nightly repo. The makefile simply doesn't have an "x:" instruction. I want to try this stuff out on my new EOS M but the Alpha posted in the original post doesn't bring up a menu. From what I understand, the trash button should bring up the ML menu, right? Anyway, could someone comment on how newbies such as myself could follow along, and report bugs, with the latest and greatest from ML?
Ciao!
@jerrykil, you have to use the current version and install the raw module. Download the following file:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]%20Check%20unsquee.zip
Extract the "autoexec.bin" and copy it to the root of your sd-card (overwrite the one that already exists). Then extract the two directories and put them in the ML directory of your sd-card.
Remember that you have to shoot video in photo mode and! set nr to multishot. I've posted a video how to start raw recording there:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg48585#msg48585
There is one difference in the current version to the video. You've additionally to turn the "Use photo mode" option in the raw video submenu off and on again, to enable raw recording in photo mode.
@1%:
Shouldn't the "Use photo mode"-Bug be fixed by [EOSM] raw_rec.mo -Fixed Photo Mode? Doesn't seem to work for me. Any ideas, if we may get clean edges in raw video in future? still something to do with the edge detection?
Perfect! Thanks guys, can't wait to set it up.
Thanks for the quick reply
It should be working, it did when I tested it. The 6D module is the newest and in theory the EOS-M stuf is in there and should work. Dunno if it has all the symbols.
I'll make a whole new build soon anyway.
Nothing good with edge detection yet.. its dots or outlines atm
Using it now. I'm speechless! Good thing I can still type
=D
am I the only one having problem with "[EOSM] 5D3 Rawtype" and "[EOSM] Check unsquee"? camera freezes, touch doesn't work, and more important thing is its not recording anything. "better hope" versions seems working just fine.
Canon EOS M + 22mm f/2 RAW upscaled to FULL-HD Video Test (better hope version)
What i don't understand is, if the unclean edges are only caused by the edge detection stuff. Will the edges be clean as soon as this gets fixed? Or is that caused by aliasing?
At this point I find the HDR Video option serving me better than the RAW Vido option on the EOSM. I have decided to hang my boots for RAW on my EOSM and leave that for later on my 5DM3 when my Komputerbay card arrives. Will be fishing this thread on and off though.
If edges are red or something like that then its outlining.
I think unhack isnt running on EOSM for some reason.
okey, then the stair step effect is just because canon skips a lot of pixels when scaling down from 18mp to 1664x560, right?
but the camera does use the exact same data when it encodes the h.264. So it's mainly a postprocessing problem. using the correct filters should solve the extreme stair step effect.
I showed comparison pictures (h.264 vs raw) to some people and even with the stair step effect they like the raw stuff more, because they look sharper and it's possible to get much more harmonious color correction. That surprised me, because, as i wrote a few posts above, i prefere the h.264 so far. For me the stair step effect is very disturbing for the image harmony.
I'll check what's the best way to get good results in post.
I'm getting this, whats causing it? over heated sensor, cpu, card?
(http://th05.deviantart.net/fs71/PRE/f/2013/164/5/d/frame_by_weraqs-d68u659.jpg)
edit: AF dots, no luck, they are still visible.
This is my first experience with Magic Lantern and it's great!
Just one minor hiccup that I've encountered.
After power-off or powersave shutoff the shutter will not release.
I am using the EOS-M with 18-55mm lens.
Removal of battery & SD Card does not solve the issue, only Removal and Reattachment of the lens.
Thanks for all the hard work!
we're all having the same issue with 18-55 EF-M lens.. 22mm is the best lens to use for now (or using other lenses with adapters).
But there is no this issue with 18-55 EF-M lens for ML autoexec.bin from original Alpha1 until at least Mach 2013.
I can verify that I don't have the issue with the Alpha 1 build linked in the first post.
Quote from: vstrglv on June 13, 2013, 09:19:32 PM
But there is no this issue with 18-55 EF-M lens for ML autoexec.bin from original Alpha1 until at least Mach 2013.
use that version then.
Hi, not sure if this is the right place to post this but I was wondering, will Magic Latern allow the EOS M to now use Remote Capture functionality?
Did some more tests about how much of the stair stepping effect is caused by the edge detection. I made a video with the old version, that has the af-dots and another with the current version, that has the edgedetection dots.
One problem with this test is, that it's recorded in different angles. So it may not be completely trustable. I'll redo the test with a tripod later.
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/1inv4vdjc0pjx49/compare_old_vs_new_version.png)
It seems that most of the distortion is caused by edge detection. At the top nearly perfect edges (with the old version) and at the bottom the extreme stair stepping effect with the current version. I hope and don't think that the difference is only caused by the different angle.
So, in contrast to what i believed and wrote a few days ago, if there is a way to record without edge detection and without af-dots, it may be possible to get really high quality video, also better in sharpness and detail than h.264.
Another thing that i realized while testing:
1. Booting camera in video mode isn't needed anymore to be able to load the module.
2. In fact it causes problems in the current version if you boot in video mode, since "Use photo mode" seems to be activated but isn't. So it has to be disabled and reenabled, to get raw recording work. @1%: That's the reason why i still had the bug with the current version. I still used the outdated flow to boot in videomode -> load module -> photo mode -> multishot nr -> activate raw video. Then "Use photo mode" seems to be enabled but isn't. boot in photo mode -> load module -> multishot nr -> activate raw video works great with current version.
@1%: Is there any chance at all, that there is a raw type or other setting that it's possible to get an image without af-dots and without edge detection? If yes, can i help anything to find it?
I hope there is a way.. I guess you'd have to look at fw disassembly. should be no more use photo mode option, it should just do fake movie mode in photo mode.
I had no issues recording in either mode.. just video mode doesn't have enough buffer. I got it to unhack again so no more freezing/dead keys. AEWB disable causes AF to stop working, etc.
We have a new firmware coming, I hope some of these issues are addressed.. ie the dots, 30fps LV, etc.
Quote from: 1% on June 14, 2013, 07:47:20 PM
I hope there is a way.. I guess you'd have to look at fw disassembly. should be no more use photo mode option, it should just do fake movie mode in photo mode.
I had no issues recording in either mode.. just video mode doesn't have enough buffer. I got it to unhack again so no more freezing/dead keys. AEWB disable causes AF to stop working, etc.
We have a new firmware coming, I hope some of these issues are addressed.. ie the dots, 30fps LV, etc.
this is great! I'm looking forward to it. btw, I'm considering of selling my other 550D to get another EOS M, that way I hope I can test new fw from canon (I hope they'll release it soon)
I don't know if you noticed or not but, you can record 1728x512 @ 25fps on HDR (scene) and HandHeld Night Scene (scene) modes. records continuously at 38MB/s to sandisk extreme 45MB/s. build version : [EOSM] FixUnhack.zip from "otheronepercent"
Don't know if it is just me but I notice a visible better quality of video with the latest hack update with using the video button to record. Of course the frames that the buffer can handle have gone down by half on the same settings but the quality is certainly an improvement with the pink dots and all that stuff no more an issue.
With the latest update, my EOS M does not have the 18-55mm lens lockup.
@Canon eos m: What exactly do you do, that you don't get the stair stepping effect and edge detection dots at the edges? can you post an example image, for the quality you get?
@1%: is there any benefit of the movie mode? the edge detection seems to be also enabled in movie mode. and that's imho the only issue that stops raw video to be really used on the eos m. so waiting for the new firmware from canon, till there is a chance for any further progress?
Quote from: Canon eos m on June 15, 2013, 03:14:18 AM
Don't know if it is just me but I notice a visible better quality of video with the latest hack update with using the video button to record. Of course the frames that the buffer can handle have gone down by half on the same settings but the quality is certainly an improvement with the pink dots and all that stuff no more an issue.
I'm still using photo mode, at Manual with multiple frame noise reduce, and on HDR (scene mode) there are no AF dots and quality looks amazing after you resize 1.71 or 1.67, I like the latest build. it seems to work fine.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 15, 2013, 10:47:32 AM
@Canon eos m: What exactly do you do, that you don't get the stair stepping effect and edge detection dots at the edges? can you post an example image, for the quality you get?
@1%: is there any benefit of the movie mode? the edge detection seems to be also enabled in movie mode. and that's imho the only issue that stops raw video to be really used on the eos m. so waiting for the new firmware from canon, till there is a chance for any further progress?
(http://th08.deviantart.net/fs71/PRE/f/2013/166/3/5/dng001_00000_00362_00160_by_weraqs-d693wyy.jpg)
Will post picture tonight. Did nothing great - just used the new build on movie mode - instead on picture mode on the eos m. No dots and better rendition overall. Even the grey scale review on the eos m live view in replay looks less jerker than when recorded on the picture mode.
Maybe placebo... if you have no sharp edges then no edge detection. Preview could work better but image should be pretty much the same.
I can't record much with those 2 buffer stars but use what works for you.
Handheld night is good: 95MB free. But expo override didn't work for some reason.
Quote from: 1% on June 15, 2013, 04:06:26 PM
Maybe placebo... if you have no sharp edges then no edge detection. Preview could work better but image should be pretty much the same.
I can't record much with those 2 buffer stars but use what works for you.
Handheld night is good: 95MB free. But expo override didn't work for some reason.
how about HDR mode, any override works?
Didn't work for me. Dot problem might have a solution from 650D
Quote from: 1% on June 15, 2013, 05:57:27 PM
Didn't work for me. Dot problem might have a solution from 650D
in my last tests I'm not getting any AF dots on frames, are there other kind a dots that I'm not aware of?
This would kill dots without enabling af_raw and ruining sharp edges.
do i understand it correct, that the solution from 650d might work for eos m to get best from both raw types? no dots and no edge detection? that would be great, hope there is soon a version to try.
btw with handheld night i still get the same 32+32+29 = 93, as with multishot nr. but few MB more or less don't make a difference anyway. and handheld night is also just available in photo mode. as long as you get continuous recording on maximum card speed, the benefit is some stability (but don't think few mb make a big difference) and some more frames when recording at a rate that exceeds your card (or controller) speed.
the bug with photo mode raw rec activation, when switching from video to photo mode is nearly fixed in the current version. but there are some combinations, that still cause problems, i'll make a video to demonstrate later. hope that helps to reproduce the bug.
There is one bug I caught this morning that fake movie mode wasn't turning off. Maybe related to that.
in addition to that bug, anyone experienced a problem with EOS M power-off? because when I turn off the camera, it still stays hot until I remove the battery.
Weird.. I have been powering off and on and no drain or heat.
mine maybe a faulty camera..
I wouldn't say that yet, maybe some setting or bug.
@1% I'm testing [EOSM] BugfixNewSystem.zip
In photo mode: load modules -> nr -> enable raw (1600x544, 24 frames), camera turn off after 2 seconds of recording
Works fine with [EOSM] FixUnhack.zip and frame rate 24
I tested on 29MB/s card and it stops/runs out of buffer then unhacks. BTW, need to tweak timer A a little I think.. 510 is too low, screen goes black.
Is there any option to automatically restart recording after 4GB? I tried "Movie restart' but it doesn't work.
Quote from: xpstudio on June 15, 2013, 10:46:22 PM
Is there any option to automatically restart recording after 4GB? I tried "Movie restart' but it doesn't work.
format your card as exfat, use cardtools to make it bootable, it can record over 4GB
I'm still using FixUnhack. The max at 23.976fps I can get is 2.35:1 1728x448 continuous. 1728x512 2:1 said it would work and worked for awhile but eventually stopped itself after maybe 2 minutes. This is on a Sandisk 45 MB/sec card.
A problem I am having now though is the files I got are 4.29 GB and raw2dng says they aren't valid. RAWMagic doesn't like them either. They add .R00 files when they go over 4GB. Am I missing something here
have you tried eyeframeconverter or batchelor ?
Its supposed to split after 4gb on fat32 cards.
Quote from: qsara on June 16, 2013, 02:11:18 AM
have you tried eyeframeconverter or batchelor ?
I'm on MAC
Edge artifacts aside, there is a shocking amount of dynamic range
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5530/9055470534_4fcb0187d8_b.jpg)
Quote from: mdwhaley on June 16, 2013, 05:33:38 AM
Edge artifacts aside, there is a shocking amount of dynamic range
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5530/9055470534_4fcb0187d8_b.jpg)
well, yeah, it is raw.
i can confirm, that the edges seem to be much smoother. (Edit: edges are not smoother, was just the angle) but i still have small edge detection dots, which are much less disturbing than the unclean edges. looks nice already! have to do some videos and test around with postprocessing to check how good the dots can be removed in post and how disturbing they are. but i think this may be the first version were eos m raw video quality may be better than h.264 in all points.
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/occy37w9zjz8042/clean_edges.png)
Quote from: mixer2 on June 16, 2013, 10:30:32 AM
i can confirm, that the edges seem to be much smoother. but i still have small edge detection dots, which are much less disturbing than the unclean edges. looks nice already! have to do some videos and test around with postprocessing to check how good the dots can be removed in post and how disturbing they are. but i think this may be the first version were eos m raw video quality may be better than h.264 in all points.
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/occy37w9zjz8042/clean_edges.png)
it was always better than h.264! what are you really comparing here? h264 is 50mbit/s RAW is 300mbit/s! just think about the amount of data!
Quote from: mdwhaley on June 16, 2013, 04:23:51 AM
I'm on MAC
I'm on PC, sorry. you can virtualize windows if you have mac PRO.
the amount of data isn't a qualified factor for judging quality at all. the amount of data says nothing about the amount of information. and especially it doesn't say anything about the amount of useful information.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 16, 2013, 11:06:43 AM
the amount of data isn't a qualified factor for judging quality at all. the amount of data says nothing about the amount of information. and especially it doesn't say anything about the amount of useful information.
oh really, extract frames on h264 video and try editing them as RAW :) I'm waiting.
and to answer your further posts, please watch this then try to talk again about h.264
http://vimeo.com/52269416
i never said. that you can't get better quality with raw, i just said, that recording more data doesn't directly lead to better image quality. and the image quality of the raw video possible on eos m just wasn't better than h.264 so far, because of the distorted edges and the af-dots.
hurm, i'm still not completely sure about the edges in the current version. made a test with the table edge yesterday and got cleaner edges as in the test before. but today tested with a flower the edges wasn't really cleaner than with the "[EOSM] FixUnhack.zip"-Version.
have to do some more tests to see if the quality improved or just anything in the test went wrong.
i did the test with the table edge again and the stair step effect does seem to depend more on the angle than on the used version.
versions i used from top to bottom: [EOSM] BugfixNewSystem.zip, [EOSM] FixUnhack.zip, [EOSM] UsableRaw.zip
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/m3s422m5j7ouwii/compare2.png)
all 3 seem to have an identical amount of stair step effect. But it's not as strong as the bottom image of my last test and not as weak as on the top image:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/1inv4vdjc0pjx49/compare_old_vs_new_version.png)
I've only had it 5d3 raw type, no af_raw or anything and af_raw. I guess next thing to try would be marking the "bad" pixels and doing it that way.
well, I've tried all the combinations, permutations etc. but no luck for higher cache on EOS M. still recording good RAW video though. I'll record more tomorrow.
Fiddling with the intervalometer and I have a question,
Is there a way to force the screen off while it takes pictures?
I have the intervalometer set to 10 seconds start at 30 seconds
powersave lcd and global draw off after 5 seconds
Canon menu lcd powersave at 15 seconds
and Canon power off at 5 minutes.
The lcd turns off after 5 seconds, and then powers up to take a picture, and repeats.
Quote from: gamentine link=topic=3648.msg51131#msg51131 date=
1371269690
Wit
h the latest update, my EOS M does not have the 18-55mm lens lockup.
Please upload your autoexec.bin and Modules dir somewhere. I got an error for updating
.
gamentine: this was fixed a few days ago: the display turns on, takes the picture, then turns off right away. Image review should be off.
Can you upload a video?
Today ML for EOSM updated successfully on WIN7. Will test.
I'll have to test the dot remover in the other thread an then maybe we can have no raw type or anything again and remove dots that way. Also might work to mark them bad in raw file since there is supposed to be a mechanism, raw2dng might take them out automatically then.
Set them as 0 in the raw data, this means "bad pixel".
Yup, need to make the list like on 650D or just use 650D list because the sensors appear to be the same.
I am really enjoying HDR video right now w/ a ffmpeg + enfuse workflow. 720p/60hz with 3.5x CBR seems pretty stable and looks great IMO. I haven't worked out a workflow for raw yet, but the menu says 1152x400 will shoot continuous at 23MB/s at ~29.9FPS on my class 10 UHC 1 95MB/s card.
Overall this is totally usable and enjoyable, but ML menu shuts down randomly and canon LV sprites pop up while in ML menu, particularly the EV meter graphic.
I am very grateful for the work you guys have put into this. My HDR videos look phenomenal!
Yea, the sprites draw on the menu sometimes. Canon really made this camera annoying.
Before the menu was disabled while recording even.
anyway to keep ML menu open longer? it takes sometimes 3-5sec to go live-view, I'm no longer able to use screenshot for settings, using my other camera to capture the setting I'm recording on.
noticed something yesterday, recovering from low-lights can be really noisy even at ISO100, have we changed anything on the code :\
RAW Frame
(http://fc07.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2013/170/c/a/dng007_000000_by_weraqs-d69p4kk.jpg)
Result
I think ML menu times out with the canon dialog, I'll have to check. Nothing changed in regard to noise... its all the camera.
I see, I've tried both photo & video mode, its all noisy. try to capture scenes with more light from now on. thanks.
Hi everyone!
So, I just got an EOS M and read this entire thread, but I got a bit confused. Basically, I want to try the latest ML for EOS-M.
I tried downloading the alpha 1 and overwrite some files from: https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]%20Check%20unsquee.zip
But the camera wouldn't recognize the .fir
I think I'm doing it wrong. Is the alpha 1 the latest ML? (if not where can I find it? It doesn't seem to be on the nightly, do I need to compile my own?)
Thanks in advance
Boot flag it with alpha 1 first to where that boots and then replace files.
So where do I mark the pixels as bad?
ifd1[BADPIXEL_OPCODE_INDEX].type &= ~T_SKIP;
// Set CFAPattern value
switch (camera_sensor.cfa_pattern)
{
case 0x02010100:
badpixel_opcode[BADPIX_CFA_INDEX] = BE(1); // BayerPhase = 1 (top left pixel is green in a green/red row)
break;
case 0x01020001:
badpixel_opcode[BADPIX_CFA_INDEX] = BE(0); // BayerPhase = 0 (top left pixel is red)
break;
case 0x01000201:
badpixel_opcode[BADPIX_CFA_INDEX] = BE(3); // BayerPhase = 3 (top left pixel is blue)
break;
case 0x00010102:
badpixel_opcode[BADPIX_CFA_INDEX] = BE(2); // BayerPhase = 2 (top left pixel is green in a green/blue row)
break;
}
Here?
Any way to get them by color instead of listing them all?
Also no bad pixels in zoom mode... I'll add an enter zoom mode button to force it.. but preview is missing display filter sync so its lacking.
Quote from: 1% on June 19, 2013, 04:11:21 PM
Any way to get them by color instead of listing them all?
That would be a really bad idea. Altough you can hack the bad pixels check to support it
Can anyone please tell me how to change the aperture directly from the camera when the camera is in M mode. Can only manage to change using the ML menu. Making me mad.
Is there any way to override the ML menu?
How do I get to record at 4000-8000 fps on the EOS M?
Responses appreciated.
Press SET -> Turn wheel
Quote from: 1% on June 19, 2013, 04:11:21 PM
Boot flag it with alpha 1 first to where that boots and then replace files.
Hmm... I think I did something stupid.
I used EOScard to bootflag the card, and copied Alpha 1 to it. Then I pop the card to my camera, and update firmware. It loads up and says it's bootflagged and I can turn off the camera. I turn it off, and it loads up just fine, but no ML. (two finger tapped)
I then copied the check unsquee.zip files in and my camera wouldn't power up now even with a different card. The green light blinks repeatedly. Any ideas on what to do?
Thanks in advance.EDIT: Nevermind. It's back alive and running alpha 1! :D Thanks for the instructions
I don't know if you're following other threads like me or not but someone actually partitioned the buffer of 550D and made it capable of recording more frames with same resolution, here is the post;
Quote from: xaint on June 19, 2013, 04:34:39 PM
To be honest :), I also thought, that the more buffers are better, even if the overall size isn't bigger, I don't know why I haven't tried so far: D, but here it is:
Some really quick test results here, on 550D with SanDisk ExtremePro 16GB, 1280x426 @ 24fps:
Sorting | Buffers | Frames | Seconds |
asc | 8Mb+31Mb+31Mb | 317 | ~13 |
desc | 16Mb+16Mb+15Mb+15Mb+8Mb | 1326 | ~55 |
asc | 8Mb+15Mb+15Mb+16Mb+16Mb | 1395 | ~58 |
none | 15Mb+15Mb+16Mb+16Mb+8Mb | 1326 | ~55 |
Try and let me know:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/rkq9kh63po8xxg4/ML_550D_Xaint.rar (http://www.mediafire.com/download/rkq9kh63po8xxg4/ML_550D_Xaint.rar)
Great findings by the way a1ex, I'm still experimenting with this, and with your speedsym.py script.. looks like it worth the try :) thanks!
EDIT (9 x 8Mb):
Sorting | Buffers | Frames | Seconds |
- | 8Mb+8Mb+8Mb+8Mb+8Mb+8Mb+8Mb+8Mb+8Mb | 1565 | ~65 |
do you think it is possible on EOS M?
I already sort the buffers... I dunno how he cut them up, will check. I think it works opposite for us, larger is better, but needs more testing.
If I can split them up I'll try some diff configs.
@%1, according to your post about 50D, maybe it fell on EOS M too. worth to try though.
I just bought the EOS M and looking forward to some great hacks on this. I have ML and donated for usage on my 550D in the past and loved it.
I wonder if there will be hack to increase the autobracketing feature from 3 frames up to 5 or 7?
I have to look, the setup is probably different.
Heh, its not.. dunno what it will do to LV only camera... but don't hold your breath.. .6D max is only 41MB/s.. you at best get a few MB.
Hey guize! :D
Canon Korea posted some videos of the Firmware 2.0.2. The firmware can be downloaded if you're registered with Canon Korea.
http://www.canonwatch.com/more-canon-eos-m-firmware-2-0-2-test-clips/
http://www.canonwatch.com/canon-eos-m-firmware-version-2-0-in-action-videos/
Did they fix the 720P crap lv?
Quote from: feureau on June 20, 2013, 04:04:40 AM
Hey guize! :D
Canon Korea posted some videos of the Firmware 2.0.2. The firmware can be downloaded if you're registered with Canon Korea.
http://www.canonwatch.com/more-canon-eos-m-firmware-2-0-2-test-clips/
http://www.canonwatch.com/canon-eos-m-firmware-version-2-0-in-action-videos/
Hey feureau,
I went to the website but don't speak Korean. Do you have a copy you can share? Would love to have this before I go on my trip this weekend. Thanks.
I'm not in Korea and I don't speak korean.
I clicked around but I can't seem to get to the firmware download page. It's supposed to be in here somewhere: http://support-kr.canon-ci.co.kr/
All I know is the filename: C3319920.FIR
Any korean EOS-M user around?
I've just checked the whole site and they removed the firmware, if you have can you upload to some file sharing site?
btw there is a blog http://canonblogs.com/1268
That's too bad. I didn't find/have the file either. :(
Did the blogger managed to get the file?
Quote from: feureau on June 20, 2013, 03:17:24 PM
That's too bad. I didn't find/have the file either. :(
Did the blogger managed to get the file?
I think so because there are a lot of videos on youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/theCHZy/videos
I'll ask them later.
I followed the instructions on the Korean website and the firmware page popped up but however, no M firmware listed. :(
If anyone gets a copy, please share. I will do the same.
%1, will u release an update for eos m about new mem hack? because I'm getting much much more frames on 550D with latest hack. I don't know how to adjust that buffer. especially alex'.
The new firmware 2.0.2 will be released on Thursday 27th of June 2013.
This information is from the japanese homepage
http://cweb.canon.jp/eos/lineup/m/info/news/index.html
The new lens EF-M 11-22mm F4-5.6 IS STM will be available end of July 2013.
Greetings from Germany
Alex (EOS 30D and EOS M user)
Quote from: alexgloss on June 21, 2013, 12:37:30 PM
The new firmware 2.0.2 will be released on Thursday 27th of June 2013.
This information is from the japanese homepage
http://cweb.canon.jp/eos/lineup/m/info/news/index.html
The new lens EF-M 11-22mm F4-5.6 IS STM will be available end of July 2013.
Greetings from Germany
Alex (EOS 30D and EOS M user)
thanks for the update.
I'm able to record 1728x736@30 for 430 frames with 6D's raw_rec.mo to Sandisk Extreme 45MB/s on EOS M.
Can anyone confirm if this crashes your EOS M:
1. Turn on camera
2. set to photo mode (central switch on the shutter button)
3. switch to HDR Backlight control
4. Take HDR pic
5. switch to Av mode.
6. go to menu > creative filters (fifth tab from the left (first blue tab), second option from the bottom)
7. hit set
8. make sure grainy B/W is selected.
9. hit set.
10. EOS M locks up or you get an ML crash display.
Remove battery to unlock.
EDIT: Apparently simply applying creative filter after the fact crashes my EOS M with ML.
Quote from: qsara on June 21, 2013, 04:25:56 PM
I'm able to record 1728x736@30 for 430 frames with 6D's raw_rec.mo to Sandisk Extreme 45MB/s on EOS M.
That's some good numbers. Is it still squeezed?
Quote from: feureau on June 21, 2013, 05:57:59 PM
That's some good numbers. Is it still squeezed?
no, corrected image size, I like the results, but still I hate the aliasing on EOS M.. Using 550D for RAW, M for HDR video only.
Ooh! Neat! I should try that out. Thanks for the find.
almost no difference at all with 550D's new RAW recording module on EOS M with 6D's RAW recording module
(http://fc07.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/172/2/b/vram1_21_by_weraqs-d6a0p04.jpg)
(http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2013/172/e/2/212_by_weraqs-d6a0p2g.jpg)
I put both modules on the card and can start them one from movie rec key, another with menu button. don't have to replace card or rename files, only problem is, you have to keep track of files. otherwise you don't remember which one you've used to record :)
Quote from: qsara on June 21, 2013, 06:14:19 PM
no, corrected image size, I like the results, but still I hate the aliasing on EOS M.. Using 550D for RAW, M for HDR video only.
You are right the M is good for HDR but cannot handle RAW video.
Hey yall,
I'm using HDR a lot, also. I think it looks great, but I'm getting occasional flickering w/ 720p 60hz HDR. I'm not sure if its my script. Are you guys using the wine/windows workflow? Are you guys experiencing flickering (some bright frames, some dim)
My workflow
#!/bin/bash
for q in $(ls *.MOV); do
rm -rf audio.mp3
#mv video.avi video.`date "+%d.%m.%y-%H.%M"`.avi
rm -rf png1/
rm -rf png2/
rm -rf output/
mkdir png1/
mkdir png2/
set -e
ffmpeg -r 59.94 -i ${q} -filter:v select="not(mod(n\,2))",setpts="N/(59.94*TB)" png2/%06d.png
ffmpeg -r 59.94 -i ${q} -filter:v select="not(mod(n-1\,2))",setpts="N/(59.94*TB)" png1/%06d.png
mkdir output/
cnt=0;
cd png1/
for f in $(ls *.png); do
echo $f "(+)" ../png2/${f} "=>" ../merged${f};
#wine ../enfuse/enfuse -o C${f:1} $f ${f:1};
#enfuse -m 6000 -o ../merged${f} $f ../2/${f};
let cnt=cnt+1;
if [ $cnt -eq 1 ];
then echo One $f;
enfuse -m 6000 -o ../output/merged${f} $f ../png2/${f}>>log1&
fi;
if [ $cnt -eq 2 ];
then echo Two $f;
enfuse -m 6000 -o ../output/merged${f} $f ../png2/${f}>>log2&
fi;
if [ $cnt -eq 3 ];
then echo Three $f;
enfuse -m 6000 -o ../output/merged${f} $f ../png2/${f}>>log3&
fi;
if [ $cnt -eq 4 ];
then echo Four $f;
enfuse -m 6000 -o ../output/merged${f} $f ../png2/${f}>>log4&
fi;
if [ $cnt -eq 5 ];
then echo Five $f;
enfuse -m 6000 -o ../output/merged${f} $f ../png2/${f}>>log5&
fi;
if [ $cnt -eq 6 ];
then echo Six $f;
enfuse -m 6000 -o ../output/merged${f} $f ../png2/${f}>>log6&
fi;
if [ $cnt -eq 7 ];
then echo Seven $f;
enfuse -m 6000 -o ../output/merged${f} $f ../png2/${f}>>log7
cnt=0;
fi;
done
ffmpeg -i ../${q} -vn -ar 44100 -ac 2 -ab 192k -f mp3 ../audio.mp3
#ffmpeg -i ../audio.mp3 -r 29.97 -f image2 -i ../output/merged%06d.png -r 29.97 -acodec ac3 -vcodec mpeg4 -vb 80M -qp 0 ../video.avi
#ffmpeg -i ../audio.mp3 -r 29.97 -f image2 -i ../output/merged%06d.png -r 29.97 -c:a ac3 -c:v libx264 -pix_fmt yuv720p -preset ultrafast -qp 0 ../video.avi
ffmpeg -i ../audio.mp3 -r 29.97 -f image2 -i ../output/merged%06d.png -r 29.97 -c:a ac3 -c:v libx264 -pix_fmt yuv420p -preset veryslow -qp 15 ../${q}.avi
cd ..
mv $q converted/
done
I'm using just vegas pro for HDR videos, works like a charm on 720p videos, at 1080p it is really hard to make it work with my GPU.
capture a HDR scene 720p fps override (exact 60) then drag the video to vegas pro, adjust composition settings as 720p30, then hit render, if you want to make color adjustments just use the tools. here are some examples created with vegas pro and with after effects;
took almost a month to render this short clip.
Heheh.. I guess we'll see what happens with the dialog hack.
Yea... I dunno if any better for EOSM
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=gyGwDYIUQ (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=gyGwDYIUQ)
Quote from: 1% on June 22, 2013, 01:20:05 AM
Heheh.. I guess we'll see what happens with the dialog hack.
I don't get it?
Dialog timer hack gave 50D like 10 extra MB/s
well, just tried,
23,976fps
1728x564 = 1728x934 464 frames
1728x586 = 1728x972 280 frames
my old combination of 6D & 550D with M's firmware
6D 1728x576 = 1728x961 324 frames
550D 1728x576 = 1728x991 376 frames
works fine but seems a bit late on flushing buffer to the card, maybe card gets older. as a1ex said, some cards must die in the name of science :)
Quote from: qsara on June 21, 2013, 11:18:55 PM
I'm using just vegas pro for HDR videos, works like a charm on 720p videos, at 1080p it is really hard to make it work with my GPU.
Very nice, qsara! Can I ask what CBR you are using? Is there a way to tell if i'm losing frames due to increased bitrate?
Thanks for sharing
Hi it's very exciting to see the ml firmware for eos m. Just wondering if we can add screen off function in the next update for the 2.0 version firmware. The eos m currently doesn't provide evf but I would like to use a ovf for my 22mm and 50 mm lens. Therefore a screen off function would be very useful. Maybe we can make it by long pressing the info button.
BTW, the crash log from the creative filter crash:
ASSERT: IsSuiteSignature( hSuite )
at ./PackMemory/PackMem.c:577, task InnerDevelopMgr
lv:0 mode:2
Magic Lantern version : v2.3.NEXT.2013Jun15.EOSM106
Mercurial changeset : 57cd362ac2f5 (unified) tip
Built on 2013-06-15 17:17:36 by user@D610.
Free Memory : 247K + 2024K
Ok, will have to check on this and see why... looks like a memory issue.
Thanks!
oh, nice... i tested the latest version and now it's possible to write 36-37mb/s in videomode (without multishot nr), too.
any progress on the dot removal?
if there are linux users, we may discuss the used workflows. what i do is Raw2Dng via wine => convert dng to exr via darktable cli => unsqueeze exr with imagemagick mogrify => open exr in darktable for postprocessing => export to jpeg => import to video software.
i wrote a simple bash script for the first 3 steps to get unsqueezed exr frames from raw with a single command.
Hi I am using the ML firmware for my EOS M with the FD 50mm f1.4 len. It's really a great tool for manual focusing. But I am wondering whether I can disable the addition information display on the shooting mode and just show the peak focusing? I think the stock display of Canon is already enough and the ML display will cover those Canon display and settings.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 22, 2013, 10:09:55 PM
oh, nice... i tested the latest version and now it's possible to write 36-37mb/s in videomode (without multishot nr), too.
any progress on the dot removal?
if there are linux users, we may discuss the used workflows. what i do is Raw2Dng via wine => convert dng to exr via darktable cli => unsqueeze exr with imagemagick mogrify => open exr in darktable for postprocessing => export to jpeg => import to video software.
i wrote a simple bash script for the first 3 steps to get unsqueezed exr frames from raw with a single command.
Do you mean the latest ML alpha firmware for EOS M? I only find one in the OP~
I think for dot removal we need to take both sizes and edit the 650D dot remover... unless someone knows how to add them to chdk-dng.c correctly.
Its on the list along with enabling actual shutters in eosM.. the ones right now aren't correct (not using shutter_timer.)
i tested how to get the dot positions, it's not perfect, but this is the result so far:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/9dp7bn71vdvdnhd/000000-hdr.png)
it's a mask for 1600x542 (16:9)
i used this image as base, maybe anyone can find better settings to seperate noise from the dots.
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/mow4swn06j3ojck/000000-hdr.dng
to generate the image i recorded ~180 completely underexposed frames with 100 iso, then combined all to a hdr image to eliminate the noise. maybe i should try more frames to get even better seperation of frames to the noise. i've to check what you exactly have in the dng and how to mask the images with the result. do you have and documentation about what's exactly in the dng container?
Try silent pic of the whole thing in normal and zoom (shouldn't have them, but check). They shouldn't change based on what you crop from the image.
oh, that's correct, if we've the data for the maximum resolutions, we can just crop on the center for the resolution we need.
EDIT: played a bit around with the dotremover sourcecode (the logging lib dependency was missing -.- ) and tested the data from the png i posted above. it's not perfect so far but removes most of the dots. i've to check how to improve the removal data. i wrote a pm to foorgol and asked him to put the source into a repository. maybe he can also give me some tipps on how to improve the removal data.
Before:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/6vp6rhld9haj5i2/before_dot_removal.jpg)
After:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/5ysu6oz4zpqgn7a/dots_removed.jpg)
EDIT: updated the example images. in this images the dots are much better visible. marking the dots as dead pixels doesn't work for me. when i use this setting i get black pixels (what does make sense, if it's set to 0). are you sure, that setting it to 0 is the correct way? i don't know anything about dng, but the "FixBadPixelsList" in the specification looks more complex than just setting a pixel to 0.
EDIT: optimized the data which pixels have to be removed and updated the example images. the data is now for 1734x695 silent dng. this should work (with correct pixel offset) for all non zoomed video resolutions. the dot remover app has to be modified, that it handles the offsets correct for all resolutions. and there should be a setting to seperate eos m from 650d. i don't want to modify to much, till there is a repository. it would just be hard to merge the source together, without a version control system.
i think the data should work better than the result is, but the way the interpolation works isn't perfect so far. have to discuss that with foorgol, as soon as he responds to my pm.
EDIT: used the 1734x695 removal data for an 1600x542 image and it worked just fine. the correct offset for x is 70 and for y 76. i don't calculate them automatically so far. have to check how the center crop has to be caculated, becuse it's not completly in the center, but shifted few pixels because of the bayer pattern.
Before:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/lrvrlvry5asjhxi/before_dot_removal_1600.jpg)
After:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/bj8jnzl2sf987l2/dots_removed_1600.jpg)
EDIT: i asked in the dt irc how that dng setting to 0 stuff works and why those pixels are black in dt. if i understand it correct the FixBadPixelsConstant is set to 0 in the dngs generated by ml. that's why setting to 0 marks them as bad pixels.
dt doesn't seem to support dng 1.3.0.0, that's why the pixels are black.
EDIT: 1% can you explain me, why center crop of 1600 doesn't start at pixel (1734-1600)/2 = 67, but at 70? 68 would make sense for me , because maybe it should be even because of the bayer pattern. but i don't know why it should be 70. in the ml source there is some other stuff in the calulation like raw_info.active_area.x1. don't know what that exactly does. can you tell me how to reliably calculate the offset. is this possible with just the image size or do we need some additional information?
EDIT: did a small videotest.
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/lincex5op3relr7/dotremoval.mp4
- first is h.264
- secound is raw
- third is based on the same data as the secound but with dot removal
EDIT: one more question. is there any information in the header from wich camera the dng is? if not, may it be possible to add it?
Header should say EOSM.. it does for 6D/5d3. Also don't forget frame skips... probably why coordinates are off.
[EOSM] Raw TypeTest.zip
https://mega.co.nz/#!o94RTLQZ!FHLUZkjExsOTg7_Rc8foRCJHEVMd1nHZ3Olt9j0I8Fs
Have another chance at raw types I was off by 0x4. See if any of them don't damage edges + have no dots/other defects.
how do skipped frames change the crop offset of non skipped frames?
can you write me why exactly from the maximum resolution 1734x695 the horizontal offset is 70. 70px border 1600px image 64px border. how is it exactly calulated?
new raw type doesn't work well... i get edge detection and focus dots on this one. but... if there is one with edge detection, one with focus dots and one with both, maybe there is also one with none ;)
You should get 100 of them to check. Test is on don't click me.
I think its total size - skips. So if you do raw video its a crop of that and relative to center?
Quote from: feureau on June 22, 2013, 04:45:04 PM
BTW, the crash log from the creative filter crash:
ASSERT: IsSuiteSignature( hSuite )
at ./PackMemory/PackMem.c:577, task InnerDevelopMgr
lv:0 mode:2
Magic Lantern version : v2.3.NEXT.2013Jun15.EOSM106
Mercurial changeset : 57cd362ac2f5 (unified) tip
Built on 2013-06-15 17:17:36 by user@D610.
Free Memory : 247K + 2024K
OMG! Where can I download the June 15 version? Please tell me the address.
ah, ok, i checked all the 100 images. 81 were completly distorted.
from the 19 remaining:
4 had af dots all over the image. we've to check if this will lead to better or worse quality after removal. the difference is, that the af pixels are just red and blue pixels instead of the other type, were most of them were on the green pixels. on the one hand bayer has already a lot more green than red and blue pixels, but on the other hand the green are more significant for the human vision. i'll make a test, which leads to better results after dot removal.
13 had center af points (and some additional edge detection)
the 2 remaining (20 and 84) do have edge detection dots...
i still don't understand why a skipped frame should move the crop position. and the offset is also not completely centered without any skipped frames. i'll check if it's always just 2 pixels more to the right, or if it varies from resolution to resolution.
as soon as i have a working version for all resolutions i'll upload it.
@haomuch:
you find nearly all versions at https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/
just the version from 22. june (which is imho best so far) isn't there... but you can find that at:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=gyGwDYIUQ
Quote from: mixer2 on June 24, 2013, 07:23:55 PM
@haomuch:
you find nearly all versions at https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/
just the version from 22. june (which is imho best so far) isn't there... but you can find that at:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=gyGwDYIUQ
Thanks for that links very much. But as I found out they are like patches instead of a whole fireware file. Could you tell me how can I use them?
Do you have ML (from the first post in this thread) already installed?
Then just extract the ZIP of the update and copy the autoexec.bin to the root of your sd-card (overwrite the existing one).
Then copy the MODULES directory into the ML directory on your sd-card. If there is not a "SETTINGS" directory in your ML directory you may create one (you don't have to, but it will show a warning if it isn't there).
Turn your camera on (in movie mode) tap with both fingers on the screen to get into ml menu. switch to the "M" tab (last tab). select "Load modules now..." you should see some green dots in front of each module listed below after that.
switch to video tab and activate raw video. there are some things you should know:
1. you can use fps override to record less than 30fps and get continuous recording on higher resolutions
2. 1600x542 is imho highest resolution for continuous recording
3. you can switch to photo mode and activate multishot nr to get larger buffer (more recording time with resolutions that are to high for continuous recording). if you do that you've to use menu key to start recording. set first multishot nr and then activate raw video and configure the options to use menu key to start recording. and you may have to use expo override to get correct exposure (i think you still have to).
Thanks for that explanation, very clear now
P.S. all creative filters crash for me... but why in the world would you use these... I think actually need to find the regs they use and have them real time for H264 if possible.
1%: The camera model header information in the dng isn't correct. EOS-M says "Canikon" for both, the silent dng and the dng converted from raw video. 650d says "Canikon" for dng converted from raw video and the correct model for silent dngs.
Can you check if it's possible to get always the correct model name?
Will have to look... plus all our raw types seem to have the dots.. I looked through the 100 DNG and everything was F'd.
Hi - thanks for working hard on the EOS M which acts very good together with my 600d. :D
Will there be audio funktions too, like external/internal mic and audio out for example? Do you have any idea when the next official ML Version incl EOS M will be available?
Beeping/wav caused lockups... dunno about other functions yet, should have the same chip as 650D but not reading/writing registers correctly yet. At the least hope to find monitoring.
@1%: forgool created a repository for the pink dot removal tool at https://github.com/Foorgol/PinkDotRemover
i made a pull request for the eos m dot removal data. only the resolutions 1734x695 and 1600x542 are working so far, we still discuss how to support all resolutions without defining the data for each seperatly.
that all the 100 DNGs have any kind of distortion is what i already wrote some posts above. but i still think that it may worth to give the raw type with the dots all over the image, but only on red and blue pixels, a chance. can you upload me a version with that raw type enabled? oh... for that raw type the name PinkDotRemover wasn't the best choice ;)
any news about the model name in the dng header? would be nice if it wouldn't be necessary to choose the model from a dropdown in the dot removal tool.
The new EOS-M Firmware is now out ! (http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_m_ef_m_22mm_stm_kit?selectedName=DriversAndSoftware)
Can someone(?) confirm if there'll be any risk installing this new Canon FW directly onto a camera that has ML on it? Do I need to uninstall ML first, or will the new firmware wipe it out (safely) during the upgrade?
Thanks
EDIT:
Flash went OK but you'll need to nuke your card that has ML on it (I used a 2nd blank card).
Well it will keep the boot flag which is good... but you should make your card not bootable and be aware there is no update for ML yet. I don't know if there is an older firmware to downgrade with either.
^^ yup looks like the boot flag is still set and your card with ML on it won't work, but the camera's fine.
oh, i checked again and silent dng does say "Canon EOS M" in meta... but not dngs generated from raw video. don't know if it's missing in the raw video information, or if raw2dng does just ignore it.
I fixed this today.. .I think it needed some config function set. Didn't seem to be writing otherwise. Dunno if it will show in movie.
But... aparently eos M has a 120fps path and some other debug functions I'm trying now.
look forward to Magic Lantern update for EOS M 2.0.2 firmware :) :) :)
That has to be decrypted/decompiled first. Hopefully soonish.
I'm able to use 60fps in photo mode LV.
I have enabled full time crop mode in EOS-M.. 24fps native.. no more stupidity. Raw image is full sized too. Only 55M tho... fuck.
Also... guess where the fun starts... if you do this while in a bad mode.. ie photo mode or 1080p you fuck the camera and have to clear all settings.
The dots are MUCH tinier in this mode.
Wait, are you saying you can record at 60fps in photo mode?
Yea.. but raw only and write speed is you know... but I can also record full sized raw 24p in video mode now. It needs more help so you don't have to clear your settings and something broke MZ so I have to fix it.
No more squish either.. just limited by write speed. Still no display filters even @ native 24P tho... I need to find something else to sync to.
so it doesn't has to be streched vertically anymore? more vertical resolution should decrease stair step effect at the edges, which would be really nice.
what do you mean with dots are much tinier? each dot consisted of 2 af pixels. is it now just 1 pixel?
when can we expect a version to test?
Heh, you can have it now but fire it in the wrong mode and you'll be clearing all settings and booting to black screen in movie.
Hit don't click me.. but NEVER in photo mode or 720P60...
only in
1080P24/30/640P
tap around in black "regular" info > where it says movie size > where all the settings would normally be to get back into a regular mode.
it stays through reboots and if you enable it in an unsupported mode you will lose all camera settings + will not be able to boot in movie mode until clearing
[EOSM] MZ is broken.zip
https://mega.co.nz/#!QtBSUI5Z!QHUh7hjaWIgxNbxskcKsk0HQMAkwPsZVXxYlsazsEZU
yes, big text for a reason
lol...
it does stay through reboot even if it's correct enabled in 1080p? have to check what "tap around in black "regular" info" may mean before i try it. do i have to hit any special option, or is the tapping in the regular info what does the trick? and it shouldn't to any permanent harm, should it? losing settings is just what i expect that it could happen while using (pre-)alpha stuff.
No, its a normal function.
You know where you select video mode normally, that is the same place you reset it. Options aren't visible but if you tap they are there.
don't know if i did it correct, but i saw the menu...
i think the mode was correct, since it was slightly zoomed after "don't click" and the option to select movie size in "info" just said 1920x1080 30p and there wasn't the multiple options, which are normally there. after turning the wheel in the menu they reappeared and i could select a normal mode.
have to check the results...
EDIT: result isn't sqeezed, so i think i was in the correct mode. have to do more tests about the dots and quality, since it's quite dark at the moment i had to much noise to check the quality. it does seem to have a totally different dot pattern Oo
at least on black there doesn't seem to be any dot's at all. i created the dot pattern with a hdr of multiple images to get rid of the noise. with this build i don't see any dots with 280 combined dngs at all. with the old build they were more than clearly visible. have to check on white next.
it does have dots on bright areas, but totally different pattern than before. i'm going to create a pattern config to remove the dots with the dot removal tool.
edges look very clean so far, but hard to judge without a useable light source. but i think they are clean.... i'll do a direct comparison later.
that it's more cropped sucks a bit, but seems less zoomed than with the 5x zoom before. and it's great that it doesn't have to be unsqueezed.
still didn't got any black menu...
Yup, thats it. Kills the zoom tho. wont be a problem if there is some way to sync and have MZ.
zoom (or MZ) would be nice, but focus peaking works, which should do the job most of the time.
really fantastic work 1%! can't wait to do some test shots tomorrow, to compare the current quality to h.264. already lost the hope that eos m may get better quality with raw than with h.264 ;)
This is the mode we should have had from the start tho.. Also have to do something with 60fps LV. If I figure out the 120 it will be great tho.
the extra crop is the most annyoing thing i think... it's just more than the complete zoom range of the 18-55mm kit lense. -.-
it's would be hard to record anything nearly wide angle in this mode.
Didn't notice it till I played the files back. Need to see how its doing what its doing.
it's hard to do a correct comparison, because of the different field of view. since the edge of the table is captured in different angles it doesn't allow to judge about the stair step effect. but in all tests i did i hadn't seen any problems at the edges.
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/yi0r2fy38ww60ih/oldvsnew.png)
both images are upscaled to 1920x1080 and 100% crops. it seems that the new version doesn't have any distortion beside the dots. edges look very clean, no strange color or aliasing effects. but it also seems to be a bit softer.
Whoah! Amazing development, 1% :D
Btw, has anyone ever investigated plugging the raw feed to the h.264 encoder? (if that is even possible) Perhaps we could get 60fps and less-soft video that way?
Hi guys, I am new to ML specifically I came here looking for some help with my EOS M. This is a really long topic (22 pages currently) so I'm sorry if this has already been covered. Will this software allow me to completely disable LCD auto off or will it enable LiveView for my EOS M?
I am trying to send live video from my camera to my computer and from there out into the wilds of the Internet. I have discovered to my chagrin that the EOS M does not have Remove LiveView like my larger Canon DSLR camera has. However, the HDMI output shows some promise, until the LCD auto off proved to be another stumbling block. It will stream for a maximum of 30 minutes before turning off the display/HDMI even though the camera is still on and its plugged into an AC adapter.
* I would like to enable LiveView for the camera and use it as a virtual webcam with a program like SparkoCam or
* I would like to be able to stream indefinitely through an HDMI capture device hooked up to my laptop and do the same or
* I would like to find another solution that will let me stream video for more than 30 minutes
If this software can help me in my endeavor I'd greatly appreciate the info.
just to show how much it is cropped:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/egkc9jxrsdfrc0u/cropfactor.jpg)
the image is a h.264 frame and the red framed part is a downsized (to match scale) raw frame with same focal length and distance.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 28, 2013, 12:24:19 AM
it's hard to do a correct comparison, because of the different field of view. since the edge of the table is captured in different angles it doesn't allow to judge about the stair step effect. but in all tests i did i hadn't seen any problems at the edges.
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/yi0r2fy38ww60ih/oldvsnew.png)
both images are upscaled to 1920x1080 and 100% crops. it seems that the new version doesn't have any distortion beside the dots. edges look very clean, no strange color or aliasing effects. but it also seems to be a bit softer.
I agree with Mixer2. The dots are smaller and no distortion seen at the fringes. I shot RAW 1600X542 using photo mode for more buffer range. Then expanded the reso to 1600X900 on AECS6. Landed up with some very workable video.
Uploaded on YouTube: http://youtu.be/mcfWdXba7uQ
it says: "This video is private."
oh and the dots are not really smaller... the dots that appeared larger where 2 neighboring af pixels. in the old mode some lines and rows got dropped to scale it down. now it's not scaled down but cropped, so the lines between the pixels that were dropped are now still there which leads to some space between the two pixels.
You can record h264 with the crop too.. but whoa thats a zoooooom.
I should try this with 200MM and see how far it will reach.
more interessting is, if we can get raw without the crop and with clean edges. but i think no crop = unclean edges, since the downscaling via skipping lines seems to be the reason.
Normal LV is pretty much 720P60 cut to 30fps.
Hi guys I just updated to the 2.0.2 firmware yesterday an the AF speed now is really fast! Therefore I have lost the ML functions, which is a pitty. However I then realized that I can't use the eye-fi card that I bought days ago on the camera anymore since the bootflag have been changed. And I also can't do a uninstall by apply the ML firmware upgrade. Could anyone tell me what to do now? Thanks very much!
Quote from: haomuch on June 28, 2013, 05:54:48 PM
Could anyone tell me what to do now? Thanks very much!
Format the eye-fi card. (low level format)
Then wait for Greater Intelligence to port ML to EOS M 2.0.2
I think you can bootflag most of the eyefi cards. They work on 600D, why not here?
Dear Great Intelligencies (nice one, feureau) and stuff,
So, about that 18-55mm shutter bug. I was finally able to reproduce it while trying to take a pciture with ML installed with one of the most recent autoexec.bins. Basically you hit the shutter release, the camera focuses, the rectangle turns green, but then nothing happens and your friends get really annoyed with you. In order to take the shot and avoid pissing off my subjects even further, I had to set the bootflag off. With ML off, everything shot fine. I'm not sure if anyone had described this bug like this before. Lens FW: 2.0.0 Camera FW: 1.0.6. It worked fine for a long time before. Maybe its some sort of config bug. I tried turning off ML functions to get it to work, but I had no luck.
Thanks for reading,
Jerry
Heh, thats still not good because I can't have set path to reproduce that bug. I took tons of pics without it... plus new FW coming soon. Just waiting on a decrypted version to start.. hopefully its better for more than just AF.
"Normal LV" is what we had before last version, isn't it?
Before was just the non cropped LV, you can go back and forth, its like crop mode we discovered.. works on 650D too, but I want to start on new FW to fix MZ and maybe get display filters working.
"Normal LV" = non croped, isn't it?
is there any mode with less crop and clean borders?
Not that I can see :(
I tried reducing crop but didn't work thus far.
with that crop it's just to narrow for most situations. but, it's nice if you need some extra zoom range.
did a small video test with a 100-400mm and the 18-55mm:
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/2vp9uowa6jjy1jk/compare.mp4
have still dots in the raw videos, had no time to create the pattern to remove it so far, but i'll do that now.
btw.. the videos have no post at all. just whitebalance and upscaling on the raw videos. but no sharpening, contrast, noisefilter, saturation or something like that. just straight from the camera.
the detail you still get with 400mm and digital zoom is unbelievable. you can see single hairs of the bee.
The little 22mm focuses pretty close too.
oh, it was not nearest it could focus. haven't tried to get as close as possible.
i don't like the 22mm for movies, because of the missing IS. of couse with a tripod that wouldn't make a difference, but it's just... not the lense for videos xD
Its tiny tho, still not bad with a real lens attached, lighter than 600d.
just finished the dot removal meta data for the new mode:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/pe2hneejjx0wzbw/before_dot_remove_crop.jpg)
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/fqot72vdoehqea4/after_dot_remove_crop.jpg)
i will add it soon to that branch:
https://github.com/Foorgol/PinkDotRemover/tree/DngFreeGrid
dot removal data for full time crop can be downloaded there, till pullrequest is merged:
https://github.com/mixer2/PinkDotRemover/blob/DngFreeGrid/dotData/EOSM_Crop.txt
it will only work with the DngFreeGrid branch!
Quote from: 1% on June 28, 2013, 06:02:59 PM
I think you can bootflag most of the eyefi cards. They work on 600D, why not here?
Maybe it's because of my eye-fi card is produced by other manufacturer. And also because I have upgraded to the 2.0.2 firmware, the old ML on the card won't work anyway. Currently I can't boot the camera with the eye-fi card's wifi function turned on. So basically I am just wondering a method to restore the bootflag and wait for the future 2.0.2 ML port that works with eye-fi.
Quote from: haomuch on June 29, 2013, 10:00:07 AM
I am just wondering a method to restore the bootflag
Low level format the card.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 28, 2013, 02:58:01 PM
it says: "This video is private."
oh and the dots are not really smaller... the dots that appeared larger where 2 neighboring af pixels. in the old mode some lines and rows got dropped to scale it down. now it's not scaled down but cropped, so the lines between the pixels that were dropped are now still there which leads to some space between the two pixels.
Any idea why I keep getting the flicker screen towards the end of almost all my videos rendering with AF CS6. Example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyZMFyheAAM
one part of the video from yesterday with complete postprocessing. removed dots, noisefilter, sharpening, saturation, etc
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/r6rw17td3w4v2s9/with_post.mp4
you can see the hair on the flys legs. it's filmed at a distance where it was hard to see the fly at all.
it's the first time i really got imho usable result with eos m raw video. the only thing that i don't like is the ghosting effect of the flower, but i think this is caused by the lense. shouldn't have anything to do with raw video. but of course it wouldn't be as much visible if it wouldn't be filmed at 100% crop.
have to try what's possible with a real macro shot.
@Canon eos m: is this already in the dng, before you load them to AF?
@1%: is there a reason why it doesn't record exactly 16:9 in full time crop mode? it says that it has to be streched by 1.16%, but that doesn't look correct.
@mixer2: yes, I first convert the footage to individual dng's with raw2dng and then import to After Effects CS6. I discovered this beautiful way to convert my rendered footage to low file sizes using hand break. It's free. Loving the whole experience. I am beginning to give up on shooting raw with the eos m. Will keep that for my 5DM3. But one thing that I love about the ML + EOS M combo is the exposure override - this is keeping my from upgrading the firmware. In fact this feature beats the 5DM3 for stills. But the 5DM3 is a beast when it comes to video.
The stretch was on EOSM all the time until I found the crop mode. Should just be text.
the text is not the problem... when you select 16:9 it records ~16:7,76 (1344x652) unsqueezed, but it should record 1344x756.
Quote from: feureau on June 29, 2013, 10:19:47 AM
Low level format the card.
Thanks for the reply but I mean the bootflag in the camera. It can't be restored by formatting the card.
1% can you please upload the latest version for EOS-M after reading this thread for a while i don't know which one is the most stable and which one to use with firmware 2.0.2. And can you please explain the work flow for removing red dots. Thanks u in advance
Quote from: Escaperoute on June 29, 2013, 08:24:30 PM
1% can you please upload the latest version for EOS-M after reading this thread for a while i don't know which one is the most stable and which one to use with firmware 2.0.2. And can you please explain the work flow for removing red dots. Thanks u in advance
there is no version for 2.0.2 so far. if you have updated your camera you've to wait till there is support for 2.0.2.
you find the latest versions at (it's ordered chronological):
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/
at the moment there is a newer version, which is not listed there, because it's a bit dangerous to use it. if you want to try read this post:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg55591#msg55591
for dot removal read this topic:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6658.0
the dot remover version you find in this post is the most recent and should work for you (you need to have java installed):
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6658.msg55693#msg55693
if you use the latest (dangerous) version in full time crop mode (which you're in after hitting "don't click me") you've to download the dot removal data for this mode (only for vertical resolutions <= 652px so far):
https://raw.github.com/mixer2/PinkDotRemover/DngFreeGrid/dotData/EOSM_Crop.txt
this file has to be placed in the dotData directory of the dotremover you downloaded before. then you have the new option "EOSM_Crop" in the dropdown. So for full time crop use this option to remove dots and for all other modes use "EOSM".
I think there are dots at 10X/5x too.. I wast testing the crop/zoom and there they are. The 5x looks slightly further than crop @ 2kx1k. Module needs an exception for crop mode to stop unsqueezing.
Thanks for your fast reply...
the dots aren't really a problem. the detail loss caused by removing dots is minimal. they look worse than they are, because a single af dot causes distortion in 5 dots after demosaicing, but just the information of the single pixel is really lost.
the clean edges are the most important thing imho. but i think that less crop = more edge distortion. the fast way the image is scaled down (by just skipping lines) is fatal for quality. and the loss in vertical resolution because of the squeeze makes it even worse.
does anyone know how canon solves that with h.264. do they use other data to encode h.264 or is it just a postprocessing thing?
would love to see a version with less crop and the quality of the full time crop mode. but... the full time crop mode is already really nice.
Quote from: mixer2 on June 29, 2013, 01:48:51 PM
one part of the video from yesterday with complete postprocessing. removed dots, noisefilter, sharpening, saturation, etc
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/r6rw17td3w4v2s9/with_post.mp4
you can see the hair on the flys legs. it's filmed at a distance where it was hard to see the fly at all.
it's the first time i really got imho usable result with eos m raw video. the only thing that i don't like is the ghosting effect of the flower, but i think this is caused by the lense. shouldn't have anything to do with raw video. but of course it wouldn't be as much visible if it wouldn't be filmed at 100% crop.
have to try what's possible with a real macro shot.
@Canon eos m: is this already in the dng, before you load them to AF?
@1%: is there a reason why it doesn't record exactly 16:9 in full time crop mode? it says that it has to be streched by 1.16%, but that doesn't look correct.
Awesome! Never know the EOS M was capable of such high quality video!
Quote from: jerrykil on June 28, 2013, 08:15:09 PM
Dear Great Intelligencies (nice one, feureau) and stuff,
So, about that 18-55mm shutter bug. I was finally able to reproduce it while trying to take a pciture with ML installed with one of the most recent autoexec.bins. Basically you hit the shutter release, the camera focuses, the rectangle turns green, but then nothing happens and your friends get really annoyed with you. In order to take the shot and avoid pissing off my subjects even further, I had to set the bootflag off. With ML off, everything shot fine. I'm not sure if anyone had described this bug like this before. Lens FW: 2.0.0 Camera FW: 1.0.6. It worked fine for a long time before. Maybe its some sort of config bug. I tried turning off ML functions to get it to work, but I had no luck.
Thanks for reading,
Jerry
I've experiencing the same problem with the 18-55 lens. I bought my EOS M with 22 prime here in China about a month ago and installed ML on it right away, have shot lots of timelapses and HDRs with no problems on 22 prime lens and other Canon lenses mounted with adapter. Then last week I bought the 18-55 (got it for about $75 new... gotta love Taobao.com!) and when I went to take my first picture nothing happened! My first reaction was that I had been sent a fake lens, then I remembered someone mentioning a bug here on the EOS M forum. So I erased ML off the card and sure enough the lens worked fine. I was using the June 10 "[EOSM] Check unsquee.zip" build. I just reinstalled ML with the June 15 "[EOSM] BugfixNewSystem.zip", but my 18-55 doesn't work with that either. My lens and camera FW are same as Jerry's: 2.0.0 and 1.0.6.
A few quick questions:
1) How do you turn the bootflag off? I'm assuming this allows me to keep ML on the card but not boot the camera with it so that I can use the 18-55, right?
2) How likely is it that there will be a version of ML released for the new 2.0.2 firmware? Will this possibly fix the bug?
3) How do guys like 1% and mixer2 handle being such badasses? Seriously guys, you are awesome!!
Thanks to everyone who has made the EOS M port possible. You've given my poor, undersized camera a massive p***s enlargement, and I'm enjoying strutting him around town!
If you have not upgraded to the 2.0.2 version firmware, you can just flash the ml again the turn of the boot flag.
I am also eagerly waiting for the 2.0.2 version ml that could support eyefi card.
there is a new dot removal testversion special for full time crop mode. all video resolutions should work with that version. however you can't remove dots from silent dng pics, because of wrong meta data in that files.
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/f3uj5ttwwuvind6/PinkDotRemover_eosm_full_time_crop.zip
there is no support for the non crop mode in that version, since the quality isn't usable anyways. but i'll update that data soon, if anyone may need it. until then the old version, with support for normal mode, should work, too.
@1%:
if i take a silent dng pic in full time crop i get wrong meta data. image size is 1798x1028 and meta data says 1872x1060. can anyone confirm that?
it would be nice if you could check that.
Hmm, thats weird, says is 1798... maybe this is from the unsqueeze.. .I'll check in a sec. Would be nice if it was larger. Also frame skips... they look right but are they.
Yea, thats frame skips... the other part is blak.. 1028+28 skip = 1056
1798 + skip = 1872
are the skip values in the meta data?
ah found it... okey, meta info is correct... it just used the normal width and height, instead of active area for calculations.
New video: purposely downsized to upload on you tube: http://youtu.be/Qsu9v4aghXs
Tried to hide the pink dots using the Adobe Raw but could only succeed up to a point. Am getting better at the workflow though. Must admit that I try to follow the discussion between you both (Mixer2 and 1%) but cannot understand much.
Having fun learning new stuff nonetheless!
Thanks.
The previous file did not upload since the file size was more than 4GB. Redone the size and upload can be found here:
http://youtu.be/3-mmPzQc0DE
the video looks nice on my comp but horrible on youtube - will keep that in mind next time!
the topic stays much more readable if you modify your post, instead of posting multiple in a row.
why is the video downscaled to such a low resolution? you may just upload the file to any cloud storage service like dropbox, to keep the quality as it is.
Any place where I could learn to do that? The full file is about 48MB.
lern how to upload to a cloud storage service? they are really easy to use, just google for "google drive", "dropbox", "box.com", "microsoft skydrive" or something like that.
done already. have a dropbox account now. the file is loading on the dropbox server. will send the link once done. cheers!
@mixer2: dropbox link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vr6gsij6bl1uzek/eos%20m%20video%20raw.mp4
@mixer2: another video in my dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ar70hkyttuw0qjs/fountain%20raw%20eos%20m%20quality%2020.m4v
it may be a good idea to upscale it and then do some resharpening, etc. and you should do some noise filtering.
is there a reason, why you haven't removed the dots?
but the flat look you can get with the raw is just nice...
Quote from: mixer2 on July 01, 2013, 11:45:58 AM
it may be a good idea to upscale it and then do some resharpening, etc. and you should do some noise filtering.
is there a reason, why you haven't removed the dots?
but the flat look you can get with the raw is just nice...
not sure how to remove dots or upscale. any links to learn from?
Yea, it didn't seem to work when I used pink dot remover. Dots were still there on a full sized crop still.
Hi,
I noticed that a very weird thing while rendering:
When I render using the "Generate video with selected RAW processor" on RAWanizer ver 0.5.0, I get these huge pink dots across the screen.
But, when I render using the "Only extract dng from RAW" on RAWanzer and then combine the stills on After Effects CS6, magically, the dots are much smaller - much more invisible to the naked eye.
Will post samples once the rendering is done.
Yea, it seems to do that. Straight to cineform... if I have those colored outlines on 6D they pop up.. if I do it with DNG and use process 2003 or 2012 its much less noticeable.
ah, the dot remover tool doesn't work with RAWanizer so far. have to talk to foorgol if he plans to add support or if i should. it will just work with the raw2dng tool so far.
RAWnizer is only available for windows? anyone knows if it will work with wine? i'll try later, what exactly the difference between the RAWnizer and raw2dng DNG files is and how much work it is to make the dot remover compatible.
until then try raw2dng => dot remover => after effects.
Rawanizer is a batch processor... processes .RAW to dng w/dcraw/raw2dng.. or straight to cineform... or dng -> video.
Quote from: mixer2 on July 01, 2013, 05:53:55 PM
ah, the dot remover tool doesn't work with RAWanizer so far. have to talk to foorgol if he plans to add support or if i should. it will just work with the raw2dng tool so far.
RAWnizer is only available for windows? anyone knows if it will work with wine? i'll try later, what exactly the difference between the RAWnizer and raw2dng DNG files is and how much work it is to make the dot remover compatible.
until then try raw2dng => dot remover => after effects.
Footage direct from RAWanizer: https://www.dropbox.com/s/sp4ekaiug4in9cr/M29-1605.proxy.mp4
Footage RAW2DNG: After Effects: https://www.dropbox.com/s/uf55x94j1wpcux9/M.mp4
can you upload the raw file you directly get from camera?
Quote from: mixer2 on July 01, 2013, 09:41:09 PM
can you upload the raw file you directly get from camera?
RAW file uploaded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/y9v3ka63xmo6b17/M29-1605.RAW
thx, i'll play with that, just to see how much quality i can get out of it.
is a nice comparison of different workflows.
Still have to look at the RAWanizer output images. Thought that it's the same tool than anyone had problems with in the dot removal tool thread, but that was RAWMagic. foorgol added support for 16bit DNG from RAWMagic last night. Maybe this will help with RAWanizer also.
1%: can you send me a dng you had problems with to remove dots?
EDIT @Canon eos m:
i've tested your footage and dot removal works great with it. here is the first frame before and after:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/5tczptayin9ec6z/canon_eos_m_test_video_before.jpg)
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/6pvjb2v13oxgiol/canon_eos_m_test_video_after.jpg)
complete video (color corrected, upscaled to 1080p, denoised, sharpened, some saturation added). complete workflow:
raw2dng -> dot remover -> import to aftereffects (only whitebalance in cameraraw) -> noise filter -> sharpening -> brightened dark areas via levels -> added some saturation:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/snzo2b7o0urjy43/canon_eos_m_test_video.mp4
your footage was quite soft, shaky and noisy. what were your camera settings and wich lense? looks like very high aperture... like 22 (=> softness) 1600 iso (because of the high aperture => noise) and 22mm (=> no IS => shaky).
i really hope that the softness is because of the camera settings and not caused by the 100% crop of the raw video. have to find some time to do a testvideo.
Btw, is anyone working on putting ML on the 2.0.2 firmware? :P
Quote from: feureau on July 02, 2013, 01:05:33 PM
Btw, is anyone working on putting ML on the 2.0.2 firmware? :P
Good question- I´m still acting with 1.0.6 because I need zebra and focus peak all the time but would love to have the faster focus too. Anyway - the day will come I guess. :)
Quote from: funkysound on July 02, 2013, 01:42:54 PM
Good question- I´m still acting with 1.0.6 because I need zebra and focus peak all the time but would love to have the faster focus too. Anyway - the day will come I guess. :)
Me too. I was dying to get me hands on the 2.0.2 update but refuse to give up on the benefits that ML brings - especially Exposure Override.
Quote from: Canon eos m on July 02, 2013, 01:51:10 PM
I was dying to get me hands on the 2.0.2 update but refuse to give up on the benefits that ML brings
Yeah, me too... that af speed looks great though
Quote from: mixer2 on July 02, 2013, 10:59:13 AM
thx, i'll play with that, just to see how much quality i can get out of it.
is a nice comparison of different workflows.
Still have to look at the RAWanizer output images. Thought that it's the same tool than anyone had problems with in the dot removal tool thread, but that was RAWMagic. foorgol added support for 16bit DNG from RAWMagic last night. Maybe this will help with RAWanizer also.
1%: can you send me a dng you had problems with to remove dots?
EDIT @Canon eos m:
i've tested your footage and dot removal works great with it. here is the first frame before and after:
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/5tczptayin9ec6z/canon_eos_m_test_video_before.jpg)
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/6pvjb2v13oxgiol/canon_eos_m_test_video_after.jpg)
complete video (color corrected, upscaled to 1080p, denoised, sharpened, some saturation added). complete workflow:
raw2dng -> dot remover -> import to aftereffects (only whitebalance in cameraraw) -> noise filter -> sharpening -> brightened dark areas via levels -> added some saturation:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/snzo2b7o0urjy43/canon_eos_m_test_video.mp4
your footage was quite soft, shaky and noisy. what were your camera settings and wich lense? looks like very high aperture... like 22 (=> softness) 1600 iso (because of the high aperture => noise) and 22mm (=> no IS => shaky).
i really hope that the softness is because of the camera settings and not caused by the 100% crop of the raw video. have to find some time to do a testvideo.
@Mixer2 - You have to teach me this stuff ... all of it.
I will keep an eye on the camera next time ... for the shake and the rest.
This time the lens was 22mm f2.0. I have the Sigma 35mm f1.4; the Canon 24-105mm f4.0; the Minolta 50mm f1.2 (manual focus); the Canon 28mm f2.8; the Canon 18-55mm f3.5-4.5 (EOS M version). Which one would be best considering that the sensor is 1.6X and the crop is magnified. I guess the 18-55 or 24-105 should be good for the job.
Please teach me how to upscale to 1080p and also to use RAWMagic. Is the workflow for RAWMagic similar to that of RAWnizer? Is there no way to get this done with RAWnizer since I really love the interface. One of the easiest I have used in a long time.
Will shoot another video tomorrow or maybe dayafter. Send you the RAW to play with while I learn how to remove the dots using RAWMagic.
Right now my tools are:
Photoshop RAW Version 8.1 - learing how to use it
After Effects CS 6.1 - super learing how to get the best from it
RAWnizer 0.5.0 - Cannot live without it
Resolve Davinci Resolve 9 Lite (free download from the Blackmagic website) - learing how to play with it
Handbrake - use it to resize the videos for youtube
Super loving the whole experience. Don't understand the technical stuff 1% and you talk about but just wait when you guys come out with stuff that is easy to use and I just grab it.
Quote from: Canon eos m on July 02, 2013, 03:19:04 PM
This time the lens was 22mm f2.0. I have the Sigma 35mm f1.4; the Canon 24-105mm f4.0; the Minolta 50mm f1.2 (manual focus); the Canon 28mm f2.8; the Canon 18-55mm f3.5-4.5 (EOS M version). Which one would be best considering that the sensor is 1.6X and the crop is magnified. I guess the 18-55 or 24-105 should be good for the job.
Go with the 18-55 IS STM. The IS helps the shake.
@Mixer2 - I cannot use the RAWMagic.dmg on my windows PC! Is there any place where I could get hold of a windows compliant version of RAWMagic?
RAWanizer still remains my best bet. However, dots remain an issue and there is no way to get rid of these with RAWanizer, RAW2dng, etc.
The crop magification does not appeal to me. So, I now record most of my video on picture mode with the Menu button. This gives me a better buffer and the real actual magification of 1.6X. Is there any way to turn off the crop on video mode?
Hello, first time poster here.
I just got a EOS M for cheap.
What I want to know is can I install this alpha firmware and get time lapse function? Whats the shortest internal for time lapse photo in manual everything mode, 1 second?
Thanks for you reply. I am farely familiar with CHDK so hopeful ML is not harder to installer than CHDK.
@Canon eos m: sorry, had no time to write you a detailed description how to remove dots etc. you really don't have to use rawmagic. i haven't tried RAWanizer so far, but if it can convert to dng via raw2dng, like 1% said, it should work just fine. else just try to convert it with the raw2dng.exe. just drag your raw file and drop it onto the raw2dng.exe file. this should give you working dng files. to remove dots download the latest dot removal tool:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/PinkDotRemover_debug.zip
you just have to unzip the file. if you've already installed java jre it should start if you doubleclick on the PinkDotRemover.jar. if it doesn't start and windows tells you, that it doesn't know how to open the file then install java jre and try again (http://www.java.com/de/download/).
in the dot remover tool click on "add files" and select all the dng files (no other files, just the dngs). select from the dropdown "EOSM" if you've not recorded in full time crop (everything you get without clicking on "don't click me" in the latest ml version). if you've recorded in full time crop mode select "EOSM_crop". then just click on "convert files". after the conversion you'll find for each dng file another one with a "_" prepended. in that files the dots should be gone. if one of the converted dngs still contains dots send it to me with the information if you selected "EOSM" or "EOSM_crop" and i'll check what's wrong.
the most simple postprocessing is to just load the dngs directly into after effects. it will automatically open cameraraw as you add the files. it's a good idea to do the whitebalance in cameraraw and do all other postprocessing in after effects. the most important thing in after effects is to add a noise filter, because raw data is always noisy, even with iso 100. i really like neat video. it's not free, but you can download a free demo version to check if it fits your needs. but there are also a lot of other good free noise filters out there.
next thing is the upscaling. open the composition settings and set it to width 1920 and height 1080 for a 1080p video. after that you'll see a black border around your video, because it's smaller than the composition. just drag the edge of the video to fit the width of the composition (no black borders at the left and the right). hold shift while dragging to keep the correct aspect ratio.
after that you've a solid base for all the other postprocessing. just play with colors, saturation, levels, curves, sharpening, etc. i can do a short screencast if this may help you.
about the lenses... as feureau said the ef-m 18-55 IS STM is nice, because it has IS. you should use IS lenses if you don't shoot with a tripod. the 24-105 also has IS and is one of the most used lenses for dslr video. but seriously it's just to large for the eos m in most cases. if you've such a large and heavy lense with you, you can also use your primary camera. if you use the 22mm without tripod you'll get shaky video.
about the crop... yes, the extra crop does suck. with the 18mm you've a slightly narrower field of view than with 55mm and much more dof. but in all other modes you can't get high quality raw video from the eos m so far. i think it just doesn't make any sense to record raw video in any other mode than full time crop at the moment. you won't get better results than with h.264 in the normal mode. the only reason may be if you really need the extra dynamic range. but you can also get some extra dynamic range with a flat profile.
Quoteextra dynamic range with a flat profile.
Well more like an illusion of extra dynamic range.
Maybe the new firmware will help some of this, nanomad was supposed to upgrade his M and then maybe I'll finally get a dump.
Quote from: 1% on July 03, 2013, 11:36:32 PMMaybe the new firmware will help some of this, nanomad was supposed to upgrade his M and then maybe I'll finally get a dump.
I'm on 2.0.2 right now and i can help with testing if needed.
Quote from: 1% on July 03, 2013, 11:36:32 PM
nanomad was supposed to upgrade his M and then maybe I'll finally get a dump.
Yay! \o/
Hi,
If I have 2.0.2 firmware version will the current version of Magic Lantern work ?
Quote from: lofty on July 04, 2013, 03:22:52 PM
Hi,
If I have 2.0.2 firmware version will the current version of Magic Lantern work ?
No - you have to wait till 2.0.2 is supported. We all hope it wont take long.
cheers for the reply, thanks
@mixer2 - got the neat video plug-in but cannot get it to work. a screencast would be welcome.
Hello everyone, my first post here - I just ordered an EOS M :)
Sorry if my question will sound stupid.
Is there any option to trigger EOS M without getting into guts and soldering wires? Can it be done with the aid of software modification (through ML)?
Thank you!
@1%: i don't think that it's just an illusion of more dynamic range, because i definitely got better results with flat profile than without it.
and it also does totally make sense. if you add contrast to an image, it streches the values to get a higher difference. on an image that already uses the hole range some values at the borders go beyond the limits. and that information is lost. and canon does add a lot of contrast by default, since the videos look more appealing straight out of the camera, if they are contrasty. and that's also what i see on the histogram when i do a video in same conditions with flat profile and with standard profile. when there are already a lot of pixels under- and overexposed with standard profile i'm still in the range with flat profile.
can you explain, why you exactly think, that it's just an illusion?
@canon eos m:
i'll do a screencast tomorrow.
@1drey:
what exactly do you want to do? simple remote triggering? you can trigger eos m via ir remote. there is afaik no way to remote control via pc, tablet, smartphone, etc. and there is also no way to trigger via cable... not without serious modification of the camera.
ml has some features like motion detection and trap focus. i don't know if they are available on eos m so far and i doubt that they fit your needs, because they are very special.
Quote from: mixer2 on July 04, 2013, 07:21:21 PM
@1drey:
what exactly do you want to do? simple remote triggering? you can trigger eos m via ir remote. there is afaik no way to remote control via pc, tablet, smartphone, etc. and there is also no way to trigger via cable... not without serious modification of the camera.
ml has some features like motion detection and trap focus. i don't know if they are available on eos m so far and i doubt that they fit your needs, because they are very special.
Unfortunately ir remote is not very reliable unless you keep a transmitter very close to the sensor
I plan to use EOS M as a travel/backup camera for shooting spherical panoramas - sometimes the photographer can significantly influence the light making the subsequent stitching of panoramas problematic, or camera can be mounted on the top of the high pole... I use radio trigger with my main camera 5DMkII and find it necessary feature...
hurm... don't know, but radio trigger may work with eos m. i don't see any reason why the hotshoe shouldn't support it...
one of the first google results say it does support, but ... don't know if it's trustable.
http://www.lightandmatter.org/2012/equipment-reviews/canon-eos-m-new-canon-eos-mirrorless-system/
if you have a radio trigger anyways just try it, as soon as your eosm arrived... i think there is a good chance that it just works.
Hmmm this is interesting, I am hoping that when ML comes out for 2.0.2 for the EOS M, I will use the intervalometer setting to take photos for time lapse.
Is this not possible then ?
intervalometer does work on eos m... if that is what you need, it should work for you.
@1%: i still never got any black screen with the full time crop mode btw. even after accidentally activating in photo mode or switching to photo mode while it's activated. is there any reason to leave the full time crop mode, except for h.264 video recordings?
Its fine going between photo/video. Might be luck if it didn't cause problems starting it in photo mode.
720P mode will black it out for sure.
ok... nice. i'm not often in 720p anyways... rarely need more than 25fps...
any more detailed information, why you don't think that flat profiles increase dynamic range?
Great work guys, I'm a bit of a geek and hope that I can help out in some fashion (just reading docs/apis/source now, be a while before I can really contribute) but I admit I sure hope to get remote control/tethered shooting working.
Because they don't, they just lift your shadows a bit. They are applied after the data is lost already in the chain (post 8 bit conversion). Still not bad to use but you're not really gaining anything.
BTW, pink dot didn't work on this series:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=AlGJJSBsG (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=AlGJJSBsG)
it is 8bit and there is data lost already... but if you increase the contrast before you get it out of the camera, you'll lose even more information.
the dng is a silent dng, isn't it? still had no time to fix the silent dngs. there is something wrong with the calculation because of the frame skip. all video dngs should work, i planned to do the silent dng at the weekend. but... i'll check if i can do it now ;)
The low contrast is better, I use marvels for H264 for that reason.. but increased range it is not.
The silent DNGs are nice for time lapse, etc. I figured they would be the easiest to do since its just 3 resolutions but I guess not.
silent dngs do use the active area, which the video frames don't. they should be easy to support (they do work for 650d), but the active area just confused me. i got even more confused by the term "frame skip" since i thought about skipped video frames.
since the calculation of the dots is center based and the active area crop is not, it has to be corrected with the correct offset. is not really complicated at all, was just my fault -.-
EDIT:
try this one for silent dngs (select EOSM not EOSM_Crop from the dropdown):
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/j727o0iaho4i3vd/EOSM.txt
i'll add it to the repository tomorrow.
So as someone thinking about getting an EOS M...
Where does it stand in terms of the RAW video capabilities? I skimmed through and saw it has a faster write speed than my 60D, so I'm excited to at least get 1280x720 or crop versions of this resolution in RAW. Is this already possible or does it seem likely in the near future?
Thanks y'all!
1280x720 should work in crop mode and not be all stretched. 6D can handle this, I only tried the 30Mb/s card in EOSM.
@1%:
did the new dot removal data work for you?
@handbanana:
i can upload you some sample data later if you like?
Quote from: mixer2 on July 04, 2013, 08:45:25 PM
intervalometer does work on eos m... if that is what you need, it should work for you.
Cheers, I will wait for the 2.0.2 firmware version then :)
@mixer2: That would be awesome, thanks! EOS M is on sale now, so if I can get better continuous RAW than the 60D (960 wide) for $300 I'd be pretty happy :3
The dot remover worked. The files I have are clean now. Failed on just marking the pixels but interpolate worked great.
@1% You can extract the ROM from the .fir, no need to upgrade your camera. You can ask the usual guy for help :P
Thank you all so much for working on the ML software. As a new owner of the EOS M, this camera is awesome with the new firmware upgrade. I don't do as much video as you all do in a professional mode, however, I do more photography. If you are taking requests from photographers, I would like to ask for these features.
1) More shot options for auto bracketing. Currently, you are limited to 3. Having 5 or 7 would be great.
2) Increasing the bracketing EV range from +-2 to +-3 or more
3) Create a function where you can prevent accident menu changes from touches to the screen. This is an annoying flaw.
Thanks!
@Canon eos m:
i found some time to create the screencast for you. most is simply the same as in all the other ml raw workflow videos on youtube, but there are 2 steps that may help you especially.
1. it shows how to remove dots
2. it shows how to scale it to 1080p in after effects
one problem is, that i accidentally didn't record the mouse cursor. i usually don't do screencasts on windows, so i didn't know the screencast software. i hope it's understandable anyways. the other thing is, that i recorded it without sound. but i'll write you a description here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/9tetcfem6qb43nz/post_processing_dotremoval_ae_neatvideo.webm
1. droped the raw video onto raw2dng.exe to extract the dngs (i canceled it after 76 frames to keep the video short)
2. moved the raw out of the dng directory
3. opened the first frame to show that there are dots
4. opened the dot removal tool and added the files to the list
5. changed the dropdown in dot remover to EOSM_Crop
6. got sure, that mode is "interpolate"
7. converted files (it shows an error for the last frame, this is because i interrupted the dng extraction at frame 76 before... it wasn't completly extracted)
8. removed the old dngs (with dots), all files without "_" prefix in the directory
9. showed that the new first frame doesn't has dots anymore
10. opened after effects
11. imported multiple files (selected the first dng)
12. whitebalance in camera raw (camera raw opens automatically while importing dng to after effects)
13. clicked onto done to close the import dialog
14. created new composition
15. changed composition settings to my target resolution. (lock aspect ratio has to be disabled)
16. dragged the edge of the video to match the size of the new composition (hold shift while dragging to keep aspect ratio)
17. added neat video
18. opened neat video options
19. selected an area where neat video should create a profile from. that way wouldn't lead to the best results, you should do noise profiles for different iso values with extra footage and then just use them instead of creating a new noise profile. but if no noise profile is available this should work to.
20. adjusted noise filter settings... i do a lot of sharpening with the noise filter... just try which way of sharpening works best for you
21. added unsharpen mask to do even more sharpening
22. added levels and curves to increase contrast, midtones and light in dark areas
23. added a photo filter to bringt back a bit more of the pinkish tone of the down going sun
24. checked the video and noticed the wrong frame rate.
25. changed composition options again to match the correct frame rate.
hope this helps you to get dotless and noiseless videos in post ;)
@handbanana:
i tried to create some demo videos for you yesterday, but after work it was to late and to dark.. the videos just sucked ;)
i'll do some demo stuff now and upload it for you in few hours.
the main problem with raw video on eosm is the extreme crop... so i doubt, that it may be more usable than 60d. the faster sd controller let you record more pixels, but you're limited to the tele range. and the quality of 100% crops is just not as good as properly downscaled data.
@mixer2:
Thanks I appreciate it! Why exactly is the M limited to extreme crop? Isn't it basically a 650D in a smaller body anyways? I just ordered one yesterday b/c at $300 it seemed a no-brainer as a 3rd camera, but I've also been harboring hope that it would make a decent upgrade in the RAW video department (a used 50D seemed a good option also but useless for anything besides films).
What are the chances that this could be fixed in the future? At 40mb/s we should theoretically get at least 720p RAW video (even if cinemascope cropped) which would be enough for me since upscaled 720p looks almost as sharp as the 1080p (as per tests on my 60D).
Anyways, thanks again, and sorry for the questions, I'm joining the EOS M party pretty late.
if you record video with eos m without crop mode you'll get very unclean edges. there is an example video h.264 first, then raw.
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/lincex5op3relr7/dotremoval.mp4
there are imho 2 reasons that cause this problem:
1. you get less vertical resolution than horizontal and has to strech it vertically
2. the way the 18megapixels get scaled down to the ~2 megapixels used for video isn't high quality. i think they just skip the pixels they don't need, instead of any interpolation
today i did some new shots... they really suck, because i focused on doing shots with the different settings, instead of what i shoot. but... it's good enough to judge quality, imho.
here's the description why i added that setting to the demo video, for each setting:
1. h.264 normal 18mm, to compare the angle of view to 18mm crop
2. there it is... 18mm crop that's how it's magnified at crop mode
3. raw 1280x662. that's the closest you can get to 720p for continuous recording
4. raw 1600x576. this is imho one of the best resolutions for raw recording. it doesn't has to be as much upscaled as the 1280x662 and has an acceptable aspect ratio
5. 1728x496. the highest horizontal resolution you can get. to get continuous recording the aspect ratio is very extreme... but it shows what the maximum quality is.
6. again h.264 18mm for angle of view comparison
7. h.264 55mm to compare the angle of view, sharpness and dof to 18mm crop
8. h.264 18mm crop
9. h.264 55mm and crop mode
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/06dgg2nfkqa0jgf/raw_h264_comparison.mp4
hope this helps you to judge the quality you can get and if raw video on eos m makes sense for you. if you want any raw files directly from the camera, just tell me which ones, then i'll upload it.
@mixer2: Wow thanks for the videos! I see that the resolution you recommend seems to be the best bet, how extreme is the crop on the M? Is it a 1:1 crop?
the 18mp are 5184x3456 and the magification is bit more than factor 3 (18mm on crop is bit closer than 55mm without, as you can see in the videos), so i guess it is just a 100% crop, yes. then the factor should theoretically be 3,24 with 1600x576. and exactly 3 with 1728.
the more often i watch the video the more i like the 1728x496 :D the aspect ratio is extreme... but it really looks clean and sharp... compared to h.264 the 1600x576 is also much sharper, but it's just not as clean as the 1728... hurm have to do more videos with both resolutions and check which one i like more.
They both looked really nice. Too bad for that crop, although I'm sure there will be useful moments for it. Hopefully we can get the non-crop to not be all stretched, or does that seem impossible?
Guys, i'm not sure, but did you made any research about dot removal via simple color overlay?
I have tried to create couple layers with different overlay modes here:
(http://f.cl.ly/items/2V250n0u2t2f3Z3U2L3d/canon_eos_m_dots_overlay.gif)
Quote from: 350D on July 07, 2013, 07:43:24 AM
Guys, i'm not sure, but did you made any research about dot removal via simple color overlay?
I have tried to create couple layers with different overlay modes here:
(http://f.cl.ly/items/2V250n0u2t2f3Z3U2L3d/canon_eos_m_dots_overlay.gif)
Novel idea, but it looks like it has black dots all over now. Maybe a less powerful overlay?
@handbanana: i wouldn't have to much hope, that eos m will ever record clean raw video without crop. but i don't know... maybe 1% can say anything about that. maybe anything has changed with the new firmware?
@1%: i noticed, that af works with crop mode and even while raw recording. i really don't need it while recording, but it's quite handy before i start recording, since zoom doesn't work and that's the fastest way to get good initial focus. btw, you can only focus once while recording, then it won't work, until you stop the record, if anyone needs af while recording. my problem is, what i hated at the eos m af anyways, that the mixed auto+m focus mode doesn't allow manual focus, if you didn't let it do af first. so if i use af for initial focus i can't focus manually while recording. is there any way to change the behavior of that mode, that it always uses manual focus if you turn the focus ring. that would be great also for other situations... like the mz enables while turning the af ring it should also switch to manual focus.. and if you don't turn the focus ring for 2-3 secounds switch back to af+m. don't know if you can switch af mode and if it's possible to detect focus ring changes while not in manual focus mode.
another thing i noticed is that it is possible to record h.264 digitally zoomed in full time crop. that's really nice.
Quote from: feureau on July 07, 2013, 09:25:02 AM
Novel idea, but it looks like it has black dots all over now. Maybe a less powerful overlay?
For better result i need original image (png24 for example) and dots map on black and white backgrounds. Anyone can help with that?
what's wrong with the method of the dot removal tool for removing dots? if you need a dot map, you can directly use the dot grid data from the dot remover, if that helps:
https://github.com/Foorgol/PinkDotRemover/blob/master/dotData/EOSM_Crop.txt
first value is horizontal offset (center based), secound is vertical offset (center based), third is vertical limit (center based), fourth is horizontal step size and fifth is vertical step size. this grid data should work for video recordings in full time crop.
Quote from: 1% on July 04, 2013, 11:55:21 PM
The low contrast is better, I use marvels for H264 for that reason.. but increased range it is not.
The silent DNGs are nice for time lapse, etc. I figured they would be the easiest to do since its just 3 resolutions but I guess not.
Does shooting with HTP on Raw helps with DR?
no it doesn't. the only effect you may get is underexposed footage. that's what htp does, underexposing and brighten shadows.
Quote from: mixer2 on July 07, 2013, 03:50:35 PM
what's wrong with the method of the dot removal tool for removing dots?
The difference is that dot removal tool - interpolate nearest pixels (right?), that means data lost in this area. Overlay method use color data from real pixel. After that you can use interpolation only for center pixel, to restore red channel value (for red pixels).
it's always just the center pixel. the 4 pixels around get distorted by demosaicing, if the wrong pixel isn't corrected before. and i don't think the center pixel does contain any useful data, does it?
Quote from: mixer2 on July 07, 2013, 08:11:29 PM
it's always just the center pixel. the 4 pixels around get distorted by demosaicing, if the wrong pixel isn't corrected before. and i don't think the center pixel does contain any useful data, does it?
Can you send a real 1:1 photo with pixel grid to me? I thinking that red pixels contains real green and blue channels data.
on bayer data each pixel contains only color information of one color channel.
what data do you exactly need? a dng file without removed dots?
right, photo without removed dots.
with dots:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/738xtis2y8b621j/with_dots.dng
and without:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/pzbrwho0vasche7/without_dots.dng
hope they help...
@Mixer2: can you please shoot something with a real world scene to control overlay/mask quality?
Thanks!
oh, ok... thought taking a photo of a white surface is good, because the dots are very clear on that.
there are the new ones:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/xmq2n463udces23/with_dots_2.dng
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/attqx24gkkvrg88/without_dots_2.dng
hope they are correct now..
this is a mask of the dot grid the dot remover uses. the black pixels get interpolated. maybe this will help too.
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/o3qe0i1swnp47i1/dot_mask_1536.png
Hi--sorry for the question, searched, but could not find the answer.
Just received the EOS-M and it had the new firmware--is it possible to revert to the older firmware so I can use ML? If so, can someone point me to the download file?
Quote from: millernet on July 08, 2013, 04:19:23 PM
Hi--sorry for the question, searched, but could not find the answer.
Just received the EOS-M and it had the new firmware--is it possible to revert to the older firmware so I can use ML? If so, can someone point me to the download file?
Someone mentioned that it's impossible to downgrade to the older firmware because canon doesn't provide downloads of the .fir.
However, I wonder if the firmware dumped to make the ML can be used for firmware upgrades? if so, the devs could provide you with that I guess. But I'd probably rather wait until they updated the alpha for the new firmware.
Crazy deal:
Canon EOS M w/22mm f/2 kit for $299. (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/883304-REG/Canon_6609b033_EOS_M_Digital_Camera_with.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296)
More :
http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/07/crazy-deal-canon-eos-m-w22mm-f2-299-at-bh/
That's a really good deal. I suppose the next iteration of the EOS-M is coming out in a short while, then.
EDIT: Welp, the next post on CR pretty much speculate that, also:
QuoteAlso in development is a focal length reducer for EF lenses, this will be announced with the 20mp EOS M camera.
... wait, a speed booster-like adapter? HOLY SHIT! WANT!
The $299 price at Amazon makes sense now. Adorama says its
no longer available. B&H now has it with either lens for $349. And there's this: http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/canon-eos-m-refresh-arriving-towards-the-end-of-this-year-rumour-08-07-2013/ (http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/canon-eos-m-refresh-arriving-towards-the-end-of-this-year-rumour-08-07-2013/)
Quote from: Pelican on July 08, 2013, 10:11:59 PM
Crazy deal:
Canon EOS M w/22mm f/2 kit for $299. (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/883304-REG/Canon_6609b033_EOS_M_Digital_Camera_with.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296)
More :
http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/07/crazy-deal-canon-eos-m-w22mm-f2-299-at-bh/
Oh, and although Amazon said the $299 EOS M would ship in 6 to 8 weeks when I ordered it Sunday, UPS already has it, and it will be in my hands tomorrow.
just received my $299 EOS M, which shipped with firmware 2.0.2.
I want to perch this thing on my telescope and take some wide-sky astrophotos with the 22mm f/2 lens, and ML's intervalometer and bulb control are just what I need.
Is there anything I can do to help port ML to the new firmware? I contributed a few commits to the ELPH 300 HS port of CHDK, so I have a little (hopefully related) experience.
Is it possible to support eyefi card in the next version? I don't understand why it's not supported since the eyefi card just work within its own internal control parts and only needs the camera provide the battery.
would love to see a super basic firmware for 2.0.2 cameras that has timelapse, focus peaking and bulb control
Hope you guys can decode the new firmware or someone finds a way to get the old firmware on the new cameras.
super interested if someone can get usb camera control to work. the lack of a proper remote is a huge drawback that i had not realized before buying the camera last week.
is there any way to get the camera to function in intervalometer mode with the rear screen off?
My rear screen turns off and it keeps taking pictures.
As for eye-fi, if you can boot flag the card then it will work. I don't exactly have a card to try.
cool thanks, cant wait to get the ML on the EOS M with 2.0.2 firmware
Mine also came with 2.0.2 firmware. The expanded ISOs and some cropmarks are all I'd really really want. What would happen if I tried to install the older firmware onto an M with 2.0.2?
Quote from: handbanana on July 13, 2013, 02:59:01 AMWhat would happen if I tried to install the older firmware onto an M with 2.0.2?
You'll get arrested by the firmware police for version violation.
Is that possible that we can disable the basic information display of ML over the stock UI while still keeps the peek focus or other functions display? I prefer the stock UI much more when it comes to showing the settings.
I just received one of the $299 EOS-M's yesterday, and got it airborne on my kite aerial photography camera rig today!
I was planning to trigger the camera with ML's intervalometer, but didn't realize that ML is not working with the new firmware version yet. Luckily I was able to trigger via infrared remote. Hoping ML is working with the EOS-M again soon!
Here's my first aerial keeper shot with the EOS-M earlier today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ml_kap/9276239883/
Ok, I have the firmware so now just have to crunch it. First hurdle is gone tho.
@1%: I just want you to know that I love and appreciate you so much. :3
Quote from: 1% on July 14, 2013, 01:23:49 AM
Ok, I have the firmware so now just have to crunch it. First hurdle is gone tho.
Hooray! :D
Quote from: Michael L on July 13, 2013, 11:06:13 PM
I just received one of the $299 EOS-M's yesterday, and got it airborne on my kite aerial photography camera rig today!
I was planning to trigger the camera with ML's intervalometer, but didn't realize that ML is not working with the new firmware version yet. Luckily I was able to trigger via infrared remote. Hoping ML is working with the EOS-M again soon!
Here's my first aerial keeper shot with the EOS-M earlier today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ml_kap/9276239883/
Whoah! That's some really good shot. Mind sharing what your kite rig looks like? How far was it to still be able to trigger with the IR?
Quote from: handbanana on July 14, 2013, 03:20:09 AM
@1%: I just want you to know that I love and appreciate you so much. :3
I second that! Keep up the amazing work 1%!!
And Michael L, yes please do share more info about your kite rig. I've thought of getting one for my s100 for some time, but now that I have the EOS M I'm even more interested in shooting photos and video from above!
I know this is a forum for the technical aspects of getting ML working on the EOS M, but it would be great to hear from any other people out there who are using their EOS M (with ML) for interesting purposes. One of the main reasons I got it was to do more HDR timelapses with it and save the shutter on my 5D2 (shooting five exposures for each frame burns through your shutter pretty darn fast!). To that end, I also bought the Sigma 12-24 full frame lens so I could use it for wider timelapses on the EOS M but also still use it on the 5D2. Problem is I don't want to take it off my 5D2 because 12mm rectilinear on a full frame camera gets some AMAZING photos (and for the record it works great on the EOS M also). Of course when they announced the EF-M 11-22 lens a week after I bought the 12-24, I was kicking myself, but since I'm so happy with the 12-24 on my 5D2 I think I'll also get the 11-22 specifically for timelapses on my EOS M, assuming I can get my hands on that lens. It's supposed to start selling tomorrow in Japan (according to Yodobashi's website), but won't be sold or supported in North America according to CanonRumors. DOH! Canon has also stated that it may not work properly on the old 1.0.6 EOS M firmware, and will need the new 2.0.2 firmware to work properly. Which brings me back to the original statement above about how much we all love and appreciate you 1%!!!!
Thanks, guys!
Quote from: feureau on July 14, 2013, 05:51:25 AM
Whoah! That's some really good shot. Mind sharing what your kite rig looks like? How far was it to still be able to trigger with the IR?
The remote only had to travel about a millimeter....an LED coming out of a controller was velcroed right in front of the remote sensor.
Here's a photo of the rig with a NEX-5 on it. Things have been swapped out and repositioned, but it is quite similar to this original configuration:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kyteman/5485199056/
Hey jaybean, can you post a link or two to your timelapses?
Yeah 1%, thank you so much for your efforts to get the EOS-M wired for all our creative uses!
That's a nice lookin' rig. Did you build it yourself? Or did you get it from somewhere? How does a kite handle the weight? (do you need a special kind of kite/line?)
@1%:
can you tell me the exact vertical pixel offsets of the crop frame for the resolutions 1536x562 and 1600x576?
Sensor resolution is 5184×3456, so i guess they should be (3456-562)/2 = 1447 and (3456-576)/2 = 1440.
if i calculate the center for each resolution 1536/2 = 768, 562/2 = 281 => 768,281 and 1600/2 = 800, 576/2 = 288 => 800,288 and add the offsets, i should get the exact same sensor pixel, and that should be the one left top of the 4 center pixels (5184/2 = 2592, 3456/2 = 1728 => 2592,1728). if i use the calculated values it works: 281+1447 = 1728, 288+1440 = 1728.
but if i read the pixels from the dng it's 1 pixel vertically shifted. it seems that the vertical crop offset of 1600x576 is 1439 (instead of 1440) or the vertical crop offset of 1536x562 is 1448 (instead of 1447). can you check that and tell me which exact offsets are calculated in ml.
The offsets have to be even, they may be different in crop mode. My plan is to re-check skips once new version is up and running.
ah, ok, then i guess you round 1447 up to 1448, is that correct? i'll try that, thx!
EDIT:
it works... just finished a dot removal test for 73 different resolutions and they all do work perfect now.
@Mixer2, thank you for your efforts also! I have no idea what you guys are talking about, but I can tell good progress is being made.
@feureau, I had that particular camera rig made custom for me, since it had to be as lightweight as possible to be lifted by a 5-foot diameter helium balloon. Regular camera rigs that are not as weight sensitive can be purchased as reasonably priced, easy to build kits here: http://www.brooxes.com/newsite/BBKK/KITS.html
If you decide to try it, I recommend that you use a cheap, light Canon point and shoot that runs CHDK (such as the A2200 or A2300) before you send your EOS-M skyward ;-)
Lots more info at the Kite Aerial Photography discussion forum: http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/kap/discuss/
Thank you very much!
Crop mode toggle is in from nanomad but for some reason now I'm booting with a solid light. Bin from 6/27 works, compiling today doesn't. :o
the most recent version of the dot remover:
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/77bkw4u9nh7dt4d/PinkDotRemover_2013_07_15.zip
@1%:
it would be great if camera model and if it's recorded in crop mode could be stored in the raw footer. maybe you can use some bits from reserved3 or reserved4? what are the reserved bits for? maybe this info should be generally added to the raw footer. at least the camera model would totally make sense to be stored in the meta information.
Its supposed to be for silent DNG, guess not for raw video? Rawanizer seems to have the model.
EOSM in main is broken too, so not just me.
The silent DNG contains the correct model, yes. But the raw video files doesn't contain the model information. Where does rawanizer get the model from? the raw footer contains:
magic, xRes, yRes, frameSize, frameCount, frameSkip, sourceFpsx1000, reserved3, reserved4, raw_info
(https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/src/aa2ba85342faf956e8c85f514ca967ffb6f4a880/modules/lv_rec/lv_rec.h?at=unified)
char magic[4] is RAWM for all models. and raw_info contains:
api_version, buffer, height, width, pitch, frame_size, bits_per_pixel, black_level, white_level, crop (x, y, width, height), active_area (y1, x1, y2, x2), exposure_bias, cfa_pattern, calibration_illuminant1, color_matrix1, dynamic_range.
(https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/src/tip/src/raw.h)
really don't know where i should get the info about model out of that meta data. and both silent dng and raw doesn't contain any information if it's recorded in crop mode or not.
Quote from: 1% on July 15, 2013, 02:28:53 AM
Its supposed to be for silent DNG, guess not for raw video? Rawanizer seems to have the model.
EOSM in main is broken too, so not just me.
We should really merge your changes then. ::)
Either for the current fw or for the new 2.0.2
Some commit since 6/27 broke it, I pulled it from main. I can still load the latest released version.
You can load ML on 2.0.2? I tried using the firmware in the first post on this thread but it didn't work
Quote from: handbanana on July 15, 2013, 08:15:06 PM
You can load ML on 2.0.2? I tried using the firmware in the first post on this thread but it didn't work
ML for 2.0.2 sounds close, but not released yet. Be patient. My EOS M arrived today with 2.0.2, so there's plenty of people in the same boat.
On that note, I would be happy to test a pre-release if that were available. *wink wink*
I'm new to the Magic Lantern community.
First, thanks to all of the people who have contributed to make this project a huge success! Where would we be without you folks?
I just received the EOS-M with firmware 2.0.2 installed. I am hoping that ML is ported to this firmware release as I too would like to:
"I want to perch this thing on my telescope and take some wide-sky astrophotos with the 22mm f/2 lens, and ML's intervalometer and bulb control are just what I need."
Question: Did the original ML port for the previous firmware release support tethered shooting? This is a very important missing piece of functionality from the EOS-M. It would be GREAT if tethered shooting (e.g. camera controlled remotely via USB cable from a computer) could be made to work.
Again, thanks so much for all of your efforts... they are truly appreciated!
Hey guys,
I bought 5 EOS M to record classical concerts... but with me, the automatic movie restart stopps after about 20min. recording time.
I use a Sandisk 64GB memory card. Could anybody help me with that issue?? I have 2 weeks, and then it should work... and I am losing hope right now, as I tried everything to prevent the video from stopping...
Best regards,
Kevin
Quote from: Eisland on July 16, 2013, 01:30:40 PM
Hey guys,
I bought 5 EOS M to record classical concerts... but with me, the automatic movie restart stopps after about 20min. recording time.
I use a Sandisk 64GB memory card. Could anybody help me with that issue?? I have 2 weeks, and then it should work... and I am losing hope right now, as I tried everything to prevent the video from stopping...
Best regards,
Kevin
Hi, Kev.
Without ML, it should record up to 29.59. Have you tried this?
The movie restart with ML wouldn't go past 29.59. They found the way to do make continuously record past 29.59 (no gaps in recording) it was on one of the older builds, but the team decided that they won't have an ML that lets you bypass the 29.59.
Quote from: Eisland on July 16, 2013, 01:30:40 PM
Hey guys,
I bought 5 EOS M to record classical concerts... but with me, the automatic movie restart stopps after about 20min. recording time.
I use a Sandisk 64GB memory card. Could anybody help me with that issue?? I have 2 weeks, and then it should work... and I am losing hope right now, as I tried everything to prevent the video from stopping...
Best regards,
Kevin
Hi
The best solution I can find is (if ML don't work): deferred record of 3 eos-m for editing the film (multicam) and switch a camera to another when it stops
I found my bug so I'll start working on upgrading to 2.0.2 soon.
Quote from: 1% on July 16, 2013, 03:13:16 PM
I found my bug so I'll start working on upgrading to 2.0.2 soon.
Have I told you lately that I love you? :D
Quote from: cafaidy on July 16, 2013, 02:52:24 PM
Hi
The best solution I can find is (if ML don't work): deferred record of 3 eos-m for editing the film (multicam) and switch a camera to another when it stops
I think it's the best solution so far. Shoot without ML for such an important event.
I had EOS-M ML crashed on me in the middle of a forest. The screen would just purple'd and I had to pull out the battery. Then it'd happen again and again in the middle of shooting. Ended up formatting the card and shooting without ML. There's still some bugs in there to iron out, but no biggie. It's the risk of running nightly.
What version? And how to reproduce that.
Quote from: 1% on July 16, 2013, 04:03:16 PM
What version? And how to reproduce that.
It was from tragic lantern. I don't remember which version. It was like, from 2-3 days before firmware 2.0.2 came out.
It happened in the field at a critical time. I was time-pressed to get a shot.
Turn it on, focused, and the live view froze with a purple image stretched/warped/interlaced looking. The camera just froze entirely, nothing works, pushing the on/off button wouldn't turn off. Pulled out the battery, put it back in. Boots up like usual. Half-press focus, camera focuses. Takes shot, purple stretched-image-interlaced screen.
Tried this like 5 times. Happens every time. Had to pop in a non-ML card. Works fine like normal.
When I got back, I looked for error logs, but nothing wrong with it. Tried booting, took a shot, works fine like normal ML. Couldn't reproduce it. Formatted the card and reinstalled ML to make sure. Haven't had that since.
Not sure what happened there.
Quote from: 1% on July 16, 2013, 03:13:16 PM
I found my bug so I'll start working on upgrading to 2.0.2 soon.
You're the BEST! Thanks! :)
Quote from: 1% on July 16, 2013, 03:13:16 PM
I found my bug so I'll start working on upgrading to 2.0.2 soon.
The best of the world of universe of of ..... : 1%
Quote from: 1% on July 16, 2013, 03:13:16 PM
I found my bug so I'll start working on upgrading to 2.0.2 soon.
Hey 1% I'm new to Magic Lantern and the Forums here but I'm interested in helping out if I can. Just got an EOS M and would like to get ML installed but also running on 2.0.2. I work in the Comp Sci field and would be happy to lend a hand at trying to work out the bugs for a 2.0.2 release. Let me know how I can help out.
Heh, I have a whole building to install systems in so this is on the back burner a bit for next 2 weeks. I'll try to get what I can done when I'm not working though. I'm out there like 10 hours so its kinda hard to get lunch, much less code :(
Here is how its going to go:
1. Stubs
2. Consts
3. Figure out an installer so you can boot flag 2.0.2 cameras since there is no downgrade.
If you already had ML it will be easy as the boot flag stays an you just update and get new bins.
I haven't been active on this spot for very long since I have been traveling. The first thing I did on my return was to update the firmware to 2.0.2 since I wanted to feel the difference in AF capabilities in real time. I am disappointed to say the least. The lens does latch on faster but still struggles in low contrast situations - pulling focus but not struggling to find the sweet spot. If this is all the Canon staff was able to come up with in so many months - not sure where the entire mirror less adventure is heading.
Plus, I now don't have ML for this version. 1% will eventually come up with the right stuff. The one thing I really miss not having is the focus peaking advantage. My manual focus Minolta Rokkor 50mm f1.2 just is not good just no good without the peaking facility.
So, I am taking a few days off the EoS M and gogin back to my 5DMIII for now. A bit of disappointing news here too. I ordered the most expensive Komputerbay CF card money can buy only to find that the cheaper option is better. The 128GB card cannot handle 1920p video. Max 130 frames with 1 -2 dropped frames.
I think there is still a way to go with the RAW on DSLR's thing and The EoS M is not even an SLR.
Quote from: Canon eos m on July 18, 2013, 06:11:24 AM
I haven't been active on this spot for very long since I have been traveling. The first thing I did on my return was to update the firmware to 2.0.2 since I wanted to feel the difference in AF capabilities in real time. I am disappointed to say the least. The lens does latch on faster but still struggles in low contrast situations - pulling focus but not struggling to find the sweet spot. If this is all the Canon staff was able to come up with in so many months - not sure where the entire mirror less adventure is heading.
Plus, I now don't have ML for this version. 1% will eventually come up with the right stuff. The one thing I really miss not having is the focus peaking advantage. My manual focus Minolta Rokkor 50mm f1.2 just is not good just no good without the peaking facility.
So, I am taking a few days off the EoS M and gogin back to my 5DMIII for now. A bit of disappointing news here too. I ordered the most expensive Komputerbay CF card money can buy only to find that the cheaper option is better. The 128GB card cannot handle 1920p video. Max 130 frames with 1 -2 dropped frames.
I think there is still a way to go with the RAW on DSLR's thing and The EoS M is not even an SLR.
I just don't understand why canon can't provide the peaking focus and auto focus area magnifier in their firmware. Olympus is pushing great firmware upgradings again and again with all the necessary functions. What is canon doing?
Quote from: 1% on July 18, 2013, 03:42:38 AM
Heh, I have a whole building to install systems in so this is on the back burner a bit for next 2 weeks. I'll try to get what I can done when I'm not working though. I'm out there like 10 hours so its kinda hard to get lunch, much less code :(
Here is how its going to go:
1. Stubs
2. Consts
3. Figure out an installer so you can boot flag 2.0.2 cameras since there is no downgrade.
If you already had ML it will be easy as the boot flag stays an you just update and get new bins.
Thanks and good luck!
:)
Sorry if I'm stating bug that is known:
Jun27 build, if I use fps override and it is not = 23.976 fps - it will produce black border from right side.
Maybe the image shifts? I saw this on 6D early on. Skips would change with fps override. No point in messing with it too much as it might behave differently depending on what the new fw changed.
Quote from: 1% on July 19, 2013, 03:38:45 PM
Maybe the image shifts? I saw this on 6D early on. Skips would change with fps override. No point in messing with it too much as it might behave differently depending on what the new fw changed.
Just checked - no, it looks like overlay border (which is recorded too).
If I turn off to mode without border - border place become like pink "lightup/add/screen/you name it" semi-transparent overlay for a few seconds, slowly disappearing...
(sorry again if it is known but:)
little bug in latest experimental 3x crop-mode raw recording - in 3x crop mode it thinks that it need to be unsqueezed and sets wrong resolution (it don't need unsqueezing for real).
Hello everyone!
I bought an Eos M about a month ago, upgrading from a 450D, mainly for the video feature. I found out about ML, and have been reading here pretty much daily ever since. Thank you for a great job!
I've done my homework, and I would say I understand most of the features provided by ML, with a few exceptions. And thats what Im about to ask about!
Ive searched the forum and the rest of the internet for how to capture HDR-video with the Eos M, without any result. Or am I just stupid?!
If someone could reveal this well hidden secret, I would be a very happy man.
Thanks in advance, and again, good job!
Henrik
Sweden
Quote from: Henrik on July 20, 2013, 02:04:38 PM
Ive searched the forum and the rest of the internet for how to capture HDR-video with the Eos M, without any result.
If someone could reveal this well hidden secret, I would be a very happy man.
You'll see there is no stable release for the EOS-M. The latest Canon firmware 2.0.2 is installed with all new EOS-M sold so there's no Alpha build for it at the moment. I really like the HDR video feature as well as intervelometer function on my Canon 60D. I'm waiting with baited breath for the ML for the EOS-M ::)
Quote from: Digital Guy on July 20, 2013, 03:36:12 PM
You'll see there is no stable release for the EOS-M. The latest Canon firmware 2.0.2 is installed with all new EOS-M sold so there's no Alpha build for it at the moment. I really like the HDR video feature as well as intervelometer function on my Canon 60D. I'm waiting with baited breath for the ML for the EOS-M ::)
I've got the old firware with the alpha build installed already. Sorry for being fuzzy.
I've found videos on Youtube ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDibGy8AVww ) showing HDR video footage shot with the Eos M, but I cant find anything about it in the ML menus, even though I've spent hours just trying out the different settings.
There are several youtube tutorials for how to shoot HDR video with ML, but none of them are for Eos M, and all of the others seem to have a "HDR video"-option under the movie tab in ML.
HDR video option is there in the movie menu.
Quote from: 1% on July 20, 2013, 05:12:01 PM
HDR video option is there in the movie menu.
I've got the following in the movie menu:
Bit Rate (CBR)
Time indicator
Movie logging
Movie restart
Stop recording
REC/STBY key
Shutter lock
Image effects...
FPS override
FPS ramping
:-\
Could someone post all of the main options in each menu from the ML firmware that are turned on in the EOS M? I'd like to know (specifically) if the intervalometer is in before my return window runs out.
such a great news for us. THANKS 1% with all my heart...
Don't know if its in alpha 1 but its in my builds.
Found the link to the newer versions in post #507. Awesome!
Thanks man!
Quote from: Henrik on July 21, 2013, 07:01:07 PM
Found the link to the newer versions in post #507. Awesome!
Where exactly is the "newer version"? Are you talking about the EOS-M?
fand4ngo,
The intervalometer function in ML is supported on the EOSM. It was the main reason I installed ML on mine :)
@1% Could you consider adding disable touch screen wake up function in the next ML version? I often hang the EOS M on my neck and it is always waked up because my stomach touched the LCD.
Quote from: haomuch on July 22, 2013, 02:57:15 PM
@1% Could you consider adding disable touch screen wake up function in the next ML version? I often hang the EOS M on my neck and it is always waked up because my stomach touched the LCD.
That is a ... weird behavior. I hang my EOS-M around my neck too, but mine doesn't wake up when the LCD gets touched...
Quote from: feureau on July 22, 2013, 03:58:25 PM
That is a ... weird behavior. I hang my EOS-M around my neck too, but mine doesn't wake up when the LCD gets touched...
It's may because I only wear one T shirt
Quote from: haomuch on July 22, 2013, 03:59:45 PM
It's may because I only wear one T shirt
Oh, I completely get that part. If I leave the LCD on while wearing thin garments, it would get detect touch events. But if the EOS-M is asleep, it wouldn't wake up just because the LCD senses a touch.
Also, do you have the sensitivity set to sensitive or default?
Quote from: feureau on July 22, 2013, 05:53:46 PM
Oh, I completely get that part. If I leave the LCD on while wearing thin garments, it would get detect touch events. But if the EOS-M is asleep, it wouldn't wake up just because the LCD senses a touch.
Also, do you have the sensitivity set to sensitive or default?
Yes I set it to default. But still very sensitive. Especially with the 22mm lenses because it's too light and thus the camera hangs to the stomach.
I'm new here. This is quite interesting. It's my first Canon EOS mirrorless (except my Panasonic GF2), and I just purchased a brand new body today for $240 - hoping to use my legacy lens w/ adapter. I like to know what are the benefits of ML in terms of image quality and better low light capabilities. Shocked to find out that it has the sensor of T4i/7D.
I will check back here for developments.
Just got my EOS-M, and wouldn't you know it, it's firmware v2.0.2 :( Hopefully 1% can get the alpha loading up on it soon. I need to start learning the timelapse/intervalometer on this camera so I can use it at the end of August.
Quote from: Digital Guy on July 22, 2013, 06:21:34 AM
Where exactly is the "newer version"? Are you talking about the EOS-M?
Yes, Eos M. Newer than the one in the first post. If you go back to page 21 in this thread you'll find a link in post #507.
Hi guys,
first of all, thank you for your responses that helped me a lot...!!!
I am the guy who wants to use the EOS M with automatic movie restart function.... but as somebody pointed out (thank you!) this does not work with newer versons of ML... Is it possible to use an older version where this function is not disabled with the EOS M yet?
If yes, could you point me towards a downloadlocation?
That woul really be great!
Thank you,
all the best to you helpful guys!!!!!
Hello all,
I'm completely new to ML and was thinking of getting a EOS M camera. The main thing I want it for is to shoot 1080p video with an external mic. The only feature I need that is different than the stock firmware is to get rid of the 29 minute recording limit (I need to record around 1 hr). Would ML get rid of this? Is it pretty stable for the EOS M? Thanks so much!
Josh
EOS-M Does have external mic input.
ML did discover a way to circumvent the 29.59 recording limit, however the dev team decided that this is not a feature they want in ML and scrapped that ability. EOS-M ML is still limited to 29.59. For continuous long recording time, you're better off with a proper camcorder.
This thread has been muted for more than a week and finally see some buzz today. Any news for the 2.0 firmware?
Quote from: jgrauman on July 26, 2013, 06:06:19 PM
Hello all,
I'm completely new to ML and was thinking of getting a EOS M camera. The main thing I want it for is to shoot 1080p video with an external mic. The only feature I need that is different than the stock firmware is to get rid of the 29 minute recording limit (I need to record around 1 hr). Would ML get rid of this? Is it pretty stable for the EOS M? Thanks so much!
Josh
I use ML to record long periods but via the HDMI output.. ML gives me a clean output and stay on forever, then I use a HDMI recorder with a Hard Drive.. (currently Atomos Ninja) to record 7-8 hour events.. It effective but more parts and cost than a single device.
Its a little weird that ML took off the ability to record longer than 30 minutes direct to card. There has to be an untold reason.. (Although this still wouldn't work for me as SD card sizes would be far too limiting for multi hour events)
That makes sense and I'm glad to hear you can get clean hdmi out with this camera. I don't need to record too long, only 60 minutes. Maybe they left in the 30 min limit due to overheating concerns? In any case, getting rid of the limit would be super nice for me, so if anyone has more info and there is a possibility of the limit being removed again, that would be great.
Josh
Quote from: thegunshow101 on July 27, 2013, 12:39:18 AM
I use ML to record long periods but via the HDMI output.. ML gives me a clean output and stay on forever, then I use a HDMI recorder with a Hard Drive.. (currently Atomos Ninja) to record 7-8 hour events.. It effective but more parts and cost than a single device.
Its a little weird that ML took off the ability to record longer than 30 minutes direct to card. There has to be an untold reason.. (Although this still wouldn't work for me as SD card sizes would be far too limiting for multi hour events)
Quote from: jgrauman on July 27, 2013, 01:16:14 AM
Maybe they left in the 30 min limit due to overheating concerns? In any case, getting rid of the limit would be super nice for me, so if anyone has more info and there is a possibility of the limit being removed again, that would be great.
+1
I don't know why the limit is there but would really appreciate removing it (when the 2.0.2 firmware is running ML). I have successfully triggered several consecutive 29 minute recording sessions in a row (starting the next as soon as the prior one ends) so I don't see overheating being the issue. I only need it for 45 minutes to an hour at a stretch but it's going to be in a location I won't be able to get to easily and I'm going to be shooting stills independently so it's going to be a pain to have to track how long the M has been recording video for as well.
Please allow the option. It's a major reason why I got the M.
Quote from: jgrauman on July 27, 2013, 01:16:14 AM
That makes sense and I'm glad to hear you can get clean hdmi out with this camera. I don't need to record too long, only 60 minutes. Maybe they left in the 30 min limit due to overheating concerns? In any case, getting rid of the limit would be super nice for me, so if anyone has more info and there is a possibility of the limit being removed again, that would be great.
Josh
So it's possible to use the HDMI out and put a monitor like a Liliput or SmallHD in it? Just asking. :)
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on July 27, 2013, 09:39:49 AM
I hope they put back removing the 30 minute limit record time. I would love to hear the reason why it was removed. Some major technical reason? Make it a user pref to have it on off.
does anyone know the status on getting ml working on the M firmware 2.0.2?
gary
Not for technical reasons. They got it working smoothly across several bodies. It's out on some older nightly build.
Devs working on 2.0.2. We're just waiting for a building to get wired. :D *sits patiently*
Quote from: feureau on July 27, 2013, 09:08:45 PM
Not for technical reasons. They got it working smoothly across several bodies. It's out on some older nightly build.
Devs working on 2.0.2. We're just waiting for a building to get wired. :D *sits patiently*
That's good to know. I just got my Minolta MD/EOS M adapter today and did some video shots pre ML. Really impressive so far. Can't wait to see what comes up next.
Oh, you're gonna love shooting videos with ML on this baby. :D Just wait.
Just created an account to say that I'm looking forward to ML for the newest firmware! I wish I could help somehow...
Did some video test shoots with my FD-EOSM adapter using an FD 85-300mm and Canon standard FD 50 1.8. I'm really impressed with this mirrorless camera. With ML install on the EOSM I'll be walking on the clouds.
Another question, this time about using a DSLR controller over USB such as the one at dslrcontroller.com. It lists a bunch of newer cameras as compatible, but the EOS M as not compatible. Does anyone know if this is a firmware issue? Would there be any chance that ML would fix this? Thanks!
Josh
With the AF lens,I can touch the screen and move the red focus box. at this time the ML magic zoom is so useful.
When i use the adopter with the M42 MF len on my eos m , I can't find the litte focus box on screen.I think CANON locks the red focus box when the body can't find the Af lens.
Now, Ml magic zoom can only focus the center of screen.
when we use the MF Lens, Can the ml develop group unlock the CANON program and let the focus box out ?
Thanks a lot
Quote from: waters on July 28, 2013, 10:50:32 AM
With the AF lens,I can touch the screen and move the red focus box. at this time the ML magic zoom is so useful.
When i use the adopter with the M42 MF len on my eos m , I can't find the litte focus box on screen.I think CANON locks the red focus box when the body can't find the Af lens.
Now, Ml magic zoom can only focus the center of screen.
when we use the MF Lens, Can the ml develop group unlock the CANON program and let the focus box out ?
Thanks a lot
You can actually use a focus box with manual focus lenses without AF information in ML
I think you have to be in single zone focus to use the focus box. Either way MZ is off sync. Hopefully canon changed something about this. It should have something done to it as M was focusing at 60FPS.
is it possible to use an older magic lantern build where automatic movie restart is not yet disabled together with the eosm106.fir? or are the version of ml and the eosm106.fir codependent? I neeeed the automatic movie restart... nothing else of ML ;(
thank you!
kevin
Its not disabled in latest bins. Hasn't been for months.
Quote from: haomuch on July 28, 2013, 04:32:02 PM
You can actually use a focus box with manual focus lenses without AF information in ML
Do you get the green focus confirm bars on EOS-M?
Quote from: haomuch on July 28, 2013, 04:32:02 PM
You can actually use a focus box with manual focus lenses without AF information in ML
Please tell me how to active the focus box and move it. :)
Quote from: millernet on July 29, 2013, 04:23:03 PM
Do you get the green focus confirm bars on EOS-M?
With the MF lens, never see the focus box ,never see the green focus confirm bars.
Quote from: 1% on July 28, 2013, 05:48:08 PM
I think you have to be in single zone focus to use the focus box. Either way MZ is off sync. Hopefully canon changed something about this. It should have something done to it as M was focusing at 60FPS.
Can i move the focus box any where just like Canon 5d ii liveview funcation?
You can move it around with your finger, it was nice when MZ worked (use slightly older version, its in sync).
I didn't try on manual lenses tho. On other cameras there are UD/LR keys an you can force moving it, here that doesn't work.
Maybe a work around will be drawing ML graphics over 1x mode which has a focus box always.
I have taken more than 200 photos today by my EOS M fireware 2.0 with the FD 50mm f/1.4 but unfortunately more than 20% of them are not accurately focused. It is really very hard to focus fast and accurately with the MF lense. We need ML for the 2.0 firmware so bad!
Yep, soon as I can. Early adopters will be able to go from 1.x-> 2.0 and have ML. 2.0 people will have to wait for an installer :(
I'll try to find more stubs tonight.
If you can port to the 2.0.2 firmware release and also unlock Remote Shooting via the EOS Utility you will be considered a God!
Don't think its locked, probably not supported because eos M LV is 60P sized at 30fps.
If the EOS-M LiveView is 60P sized at 30fps what would it need to be in order to work? (What does 60P mean?)
Quote from: 1% on July 31, 2013, 08:12:45 PM
Don't think its locked, probably not supported because eos M LV is 60P sized at 30fps.
Speaking of remote shooting. Is the EOS-M the only one without this feature? (can the 650D shoot remotely?)
60P is the 60FPS mode on other cameras. What would be needed to make it work is probably support for this gimpy mode in eos utility. That is likely the reason its disabled, also it may not be making the preview stream to send to eos utility at all since its underpowered and they made every effort to skimp on processing (ie, not having a real idle LV at 24fps except crop mode).
Check on 650D ( I dont have one).
Quote from: 1% on July 31, 2013, 08:31:19 PM
60P is the 60FPS mode on other cameras. What would be needed to make it work is probably support for this gimpy mode in eos utility. That is likely the reason its disabled, also it may not be making the preview stream to send to eos utility at all since its underpowered and they made every effort to skimp on processing (ie, not having a real idle LV at 24fps except crop mode).
Do you think it could be made to work on the EOS-M? How much effort would it take?
I'm sure more than just a few people would love the capability to shoot remotely, particularly those who are into astrophotography.
Depends whats up with 2.02.. if it still has jacked up LV and doesn't work without any other usb live preview, probably not.
Quote from: 1% on July 31, 2013, 09:13:07 PM
Depends whats up with 2.02.. if it still has jacked up LV and doesn't work without any other usb live preview, probably not.
Gotcha. Where does this fit in the list of priorities?
Below MZ working well again.
Quote from: 1% on July 31, 2013, 07:45:16 PM
2.0 people will have to wait for an installer :(
If you need someone to test an installer, just let me know.
Quote from: 1% on July 31, 2013, 10:58:17 PM
Below MZ working well again.
If you've got a prototype build for 2.0.2 I'll be happy to test for you. I've got 48 hour film festival this weekend, and it'd be cool to add EOS-M to my 5d2/5d3 for shooting, and ML would really help with that. I'm willing to risk bricking it.
Yea, its not going to take 1 day. I just reorganised stubs and found adtg shutter, it cleans up FPS sprinkles/lines but timings are too loose, have to set manually. So one bug down, can get some time lapse out of this thing finally.
Next up porting. Fingers crossed for display filters/mz.
Hooray!
*crosses finger*
Hi! I'm one of the many who bought an EOS M with last months 300$ deal and is just getting started in photography. I've been following this thread ever since. I understand ML is mostly geared towards recording enthousiasts moreso than people looking forward a more configurable firmware. I was wondering if by any luck ML can be used to fix the (forgive my french) god-awful EOS M AF speed (for pictures)?
I could be wrong but I do often have the impression from the stock 2.02 firmware that even in single-target focus mode it keeps on going too far to determine something is beginning to get out of focus and loses a lot of time there. As such, I assume the slow AF is in major part slowed down by the firmware. In any case, thanks again for any response from the more knowledgeable people.
Quote from: manly on August 01, 2013, 07:25:41 AM
I understand ML is mostly geared towards recording enthousiasts moreso than people looking forward a more configurable firmware.
Not exactly. It's just that the photography features of ML so mature that most of the talk tends to gyrate towards the rather newly developed video features such as fps, hdr, and raw vids.
Quote from: manly on August 01, 2013, 07:25:41 AM
I was wondering if by any luck ML can be used to fix the (forgive my french) god-awful EOS M AF speed (for pictures)?
I could be wrong but I do often have the impression from the stock 2.02 firmware that even in single-target focus mode it keeps on going too far to determine something is beginning to get out of focus and loses a lot of time there. As such, I assume the slow AF is in major part slowed down by the firmware. In any case, thanks again for any response from the more knowledgeable people.
Upgrade to 2.0.2. This fixes the slow AF problem. Don't expect DSLR AF speed, nothing on this planet beats OVF phase detection. Yet.
But I can tell you this anecdote: it's a lot more sensitive in low light than the 60D. I was at a birthday party a few weeks ago, I had my EOS-M with adapter and a friend used the 60D. There's this one group shot that the 60D just wouldn't autofocus because it was too damn dark. They handed me the 60D, I played around with it, it just wouldn't lock focus. Instead of switching to manual, I decided to pop the lens to my EOS-M, and it immediately locks focus and fired. Switched to multishot NR and the resulting pic looks as good as it was shot on ISO100.
Couldn't be happier.
@1% fingers on my hands and toes are crossed :)
I'm just getting into using ML for my 5DII, and would love it on the M I just bought. Thanks for the hard work. Would love to see the EOS utility work if possible as well. Watching this closely.
Quote from: Drizzt321 on August 01, 2013, 02:03:23 AM
If you've got a prototype build for 2.0.2 I'll be happy to test for you. I've got 48 hour film festival this weekend, and it'd be cool to add EOS-M to my 5d2/5d3 for shooting, and ML would really help with that. I'm willing to risk bricking it.
+1 I just got in on the EOS-M deal and using it mostly for fooling with alt MF lenses. Hoping to get the zoom box back that I am so used to on the 60D
Quote from: 1% on August 01, 2013, 03:01:34 AM
Yea, its not going to take 1 day. I just reorganised stubs and found adtg shutter, it cleans up FPS sprinkles/lines but timings are too loose, have to set manually. So one bug down, can get some time lapse out of this thing finally.
Next up porting. Fingers crossed for display filters/mz.
Ah well. A person can hope, right? Anyway, awesome, keep up the great work and do what you gotta do!
Quote from: wuxiekeji on August 01, 2013, 07:00:48 PM
+1 I just got in on the EOS-M deal and using it mostly for fooling with alt MF lenses. Hoping to get the zoom box back that I am so used to on the 60D
Yea, I actually have 2 adapters coming for tomorrow, an MD mount (no corrective optics FTW!) and m42 mount adapters so that I can use some of my old lenses. I've got a nice 28mm f/2.8 MD lens that'll probably look pretty sweet, and a 55mm f/2.8 Macro in m42, and a 135 f/3.5 in m42 along with my bellows and I could have a pretty sweet Macro setup that's relatively light and puts a lot of pixels right on target :)
Quote from: feureau on August 01, 2013, 08:16:13 AM
[...]
Upgrade to 2.0.2. This fixes the slow AF problem. Don't expect DSLR AF speed, nothing on this planet beats OVF phase detection. Yet.
[...]
But I can tell you this anecdote: it's a lot more sensitive in low light than the 60D.
I might not have the experience of a professional photographer but I did also note that the 22mm pancake was amazing at taking good pictures even in really low lighting with no flash. One of the reasons I am fairly certain I will resell the speedlight flash that came with the kit (selling for half the price I paid the entire kit?!)
I did upgrade to 2.0.2. I was simply pointing out that it feels like it over/under focuses before coming back to the 'optimal' focus. If the in-focus detection settings were set more aggressively it could save valuable focus time. Additionally, such a setting could also help with the 'couldn't find anything to focus on' problem I seem to have every now and then. I'd be welcome to see/hear if you would agree with that.
Dose anyone use tapatalk to follow this topic? Why it recently says I don't have the permission necessary to get notifications from this topic?
Besides, any news about the 2.0 version?
I booted it today... I have some memory problems, exmem doesn't work and allocate has an extra 0 at the end.
Fixed MZ.. I wonder if I can sync display filters from this.
Quote from: 1% on August 03, 2013, 08:01:38 PM
I booted it today...
Fixed MZ.. I wonder if I can sync display filters from this.
Yay! \o/
New to this board but have been following for awhile. Just bought the EOS-M deal to add to my Canon camera collection and am following keenly on 2.02 ML firmware update for EOS-M as I want the timeplapse function.
Keep up the good work @1% and looking forward to 2.02
Been following this thread for weeks and itching to get ML on my eos-m. Wanted to post up and say thanks to 1% and the ML team for everything and that I would be happy to pitch in a bit for all yours guys time whenever this is ready or even now.
Its usable now, needs a few more stubs and of course the installer.
I'm on 2.0.2 now and can't go back... still same issues with display filter but MZ is good except for crop mode.. canon really did fix the focusing.
Hooray!!! :D
Congrats, 1%!!!
We the 99% salutes you!
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 02:07:05 AM
Its usable now, needs a few more stubs and of course the installer.
I'm on 2.0.2 now and can't go back... still same issues with display filter but MZ is good except for crop mode.. canon really did fix the focusing.
Hope we can use it this weekend
If you boot flagged, you can compile already/upgrade/use it.
Whats missing right now is stubs for TP log/audio (giving it another go) and bitrate, also raw rec/display timer needs some addys changed.
Thanks 1%! I'm really excited to get ML on my new EOS M.
:)
No installer yet for 2.02.. if you had v1 you could upgrade and just compile ATM.
:)
Thank you so much, 1%.
:)
I upgraded to 2.0.2 because it really focuses faster & better than before.
Now waiting for ML. More possibilities just like before... :D
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 07:04:16 AM
No installer yet for 2.02.. if you had v1 you could upgrade and just compile ATM.
Checked out from bitbucket. is this the same as the EOSM.106?
Almost every address is different: https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/src/dad2c62000306bf9eb887f10e54dbcd76837e2d1/platform/EOSM.202?at=unified
1%, can you upload a precompiled version. don't want to install more than a gig of dependencies just for a single compilation.
Yep, just let me make sure the video stuff works.
It does, prop browser is hanging things for some reason so took it out:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 04:47:14 PM
Yep, just let me make sure the video stuff works.
Awesome! Does that mean we're within a few days of the first "alpha" release for the firmware 2.0.2 update?
Keep up the great work!
ah, ok nice! thx
Quote from: mixer2 on August 04, 2013, 04:51:54 PM
ah, ok nice! thx
This is a "no-installer" version, right? How do we "install" it on our cameras?
Try this from <32gb card... may or may not be detected:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=7z9GGGKZk (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=7z9GGGKZk)
update worked fine. there is no full time crop mode so far, is it?
Movie menu: video crop mode: on.
Someone let me know if the boot flag firmware is good.
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 05:53:53 PM
Someone let me know if the boot flag firmware is good.
I can load it through firmware, but as soon as theupdate screen loads, the screen goes blank and the green indicator light blinks rapidly.
Had to battery pull or it would just green-light-blinking-rapidly every time I start up the camera.
I don't think any flag was set. Couldn't boot to ML.
Sucks, 6D does something similar. Maybe the signing server isn't right?
Quote from: feureau on August 04, 2013, 06:05:45 PM
I can load it through firmware, but as soon as theupdate screen loads, the screen goes blank and the green indicator light blinks rapidly.
Had to battery pull or it would just green-light-blinking-rapidly every time I start up the camera.
I don't think any flag was set. Couldn't boot to ML.
Same for me. The screen goes blank and the green light keeps blinking. Have to pull the battery out. Tried everything and more no success yet.
ah hadn't noticed, that full time crop moved from "don't click me" to an extra menu item. thx!
@mixer2 how do you boot to your card btw?
bootflag is still set from prior version...
Quote from: mixer2 on August 04, 2013, 06:33:32 PM
bootflag is still set from prior version...
I knew I shouldn't've formatted my cards :/
If you had a normal ML on 1.0 then your boot flag in the camera is still set. But new people that started at 2.02 are out of luck at the moment till I figure out wtf is wrong with the installers.
make build_fir, then upload updater.bin to the signing server. This worked for 650D.
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 07:07:26 PM
If you had a normal ML on 1.0 then your boot flag in the camera is still set. But new people that started at 2.02 are out of luck at the moment till I figure out wtf is wrong with the installers.
Thank you! \o/
I EOSCard'd my SD card and it loads.
I did make; make installer...
get 40K bin that doesn't work.
make buid_fir produced autoexec sized fir:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 07:29:59 PM
I did make; make installer...
get 40K bin that doesn't work.
make buid_fir produced autoexec sized fir:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK
I have to compile ML myself to use this, right? :o
I dunno try it on a non-boot flagged camera. For me the big fir just re-loads ML. The build was posted up above if you're already boot flagged from before.
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 08:39:31 PM
I dunno try it on a non-boot flagged camera. For me the big fir just re-loads ML. The build was posted up above if you're already boot flagged from before.
Thanks!
My M are already boot flagged from the first firmware version.
I'm curious. I just downloaded "[EOSM202] FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip". Does this work as an update for any build of ML? Nightly?
Its the whole binary. So its just like a 1.0 version except for 2.02
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 09:01:51 PM
Its the whole binary. So its just like a 1.0 version except for 2.02
With "UpDaterM.fir". Now my camera booted with ML w/ all the files from "[EOSM202] FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip". I tried turn my camera off and on but ML still boots and I can get into the menu. So this does work.
It's just that ML tells me to get FONTS and copy all the files to the card. Which ML build should I use?
------------------------
I just got all required files from nightly build. Now ML is working.
Thank you!
Pull fonts and all that from the nightly or what you had before.
If you already were boot flagged, you dont need a fir.
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 09:28:03 PM
Pull fonts and all that from the nightly or what you had before.
If you already were boot flagged, you dont need a fir.
Seems like I have to re-flash "UpDaterM.fir" every time I pull the battery out.
Now sometimes when I turn the camera off too...
Otherwise it doesn't boot?
Did you have alpha before or a normal bin?
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 09:34:02 PM
Otherwise it doesn't boot?
Did you have alpha before or a normal bin?
Yes, otherwise ML doesn't boot.
I had ML installed on my M since Alpha1 on the previous version of firmware.
This
Is it bad for the ROM if I oftenly flash it?
I think its working like the alpha. At least the signing works. So I guess good news for people with no boot flag?
Something is wrong with the updater code? Only visible when canon firmare is on the card and then says file not found after updating 5%.
My camera was bootflagged previously and doesn't behave like in the video. You get ML from the get go.
So people with no ML before, does it work like the video?
I'm exciting!
http://instagram.com/p/cmpkbsjnwK/
~35MB/s FOR THE WIN!
My 60D actually flushes the buffer @ ~20MB/s. :o
:)
I think it will only load the bin attached to the .fir file this way. i.e. it should run without autoexec. on card.
Kinda sucks, need to figure out what's up with updater.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 04, 2013, 10:38:03 PM
my cam timed out while writing here. I woke it and ML was gone. Turned it off, then on and ML was gone. I reinstalled the update firmware and it worked. I shut the cam off and then on and ML is gone again?? I have now installed it three times.
gary
Seems like we are in the same boat...
Yep, installer is messed up and its like the alpha. Needs more research.
At least people who got a 2.0.2 camera can try it.
If you had 1.0 firmware and used the rolling releases then your boot flag is still on and can use autoexec.bin.
Btw, does anyone else's ML show a 16:9 rectangle in the middle? Mine keeps popping a 16:9 rectangle after the ML overlays load, and it's not from the cropmarks. Any ideas what that is?
Since I'm asking about EOS-M ML, might as well ask: does anyone know if ETTR can be switched to modify the aperture or ISO instead of shutter?
Thanks in advance.
In movie mode, ML shows 16:9 cropmarks.
Normally they should disappear when you turn off raw video, but I have no idea if it actually works.
Thanks. It's not the regular 16:9 cropmarks though. It's a white-border square inside the flexi-zone AF corners.
It shows up on everything. Even on regular canon layout. And photo mode, too.
Had to disable raw_rec from loading to make it go away. It shows up again as soon as I load raw_rec. Also, does raw_rec supposed to work yet? The screen goes purple haywire when I start recording.
Without screenshot, I'm not sure what you are talking about.
Flexizone multi puts a box on the screen, then there is the focus box. It also pops up things it wants to focus on and highlights them.. use single zone to stop that.
Nothing should be purple but the screen can freeze if you have on of the hacked previews. Otherwise its working like before.
Beep still freezes :(
Hello I have ML working on my 500D after some help from this site, thank you.
A question about ML on the Canon M, a camera I also have - is it already planned or can it be planned to add a feature of 'minimum shutter speed'? Setting it globally would be good, so that it applies to any mode. One of the big problems of the M is that it likes to auto set shutter speed to 1/30 in most modes (when light is low, obviously), whereas 1/30 is not appropriate for people photos, and I would like to set it to at least 1/60. Particularly when my wife or kids are using the camera and not so experienced, this issue is a pain for them. So a global setting of minimum shutter speed would be great. I cannot believe Canon leaves this out of their cameras, even from their high end point and shoot like the S100. So will this feature be implemented in ML for Canon M? Thank you.
Not really possible to set it globally, you could do expo override/expo lock.
The auto expo module would be good here but it only works in non LV and that doesn't exist here.
Thanks for the reply. Not really sure what expo override/lock/auto expo module means or how it influences min shutter speed.
It wouldn't matter if it couldn't be set globally, at least if in a certain mode or two. e.g. Full auto or Av mode.
Are you saying there is no chance of that?
Thanks.
exposure override.. exposure lock, features that may do what you want or shoot photos in TV mode
The rectangle in the middle.
http://i.imgur.com/RW9240q.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oCesC2F.jpg
I figured this is the mark for framing the raw_rec. Is there a way to disable this without having to turn off and turn on the camera with the raw_rec unloaded?
Any solution to get rid of the dots in RAW video yet?
Quote from: 1% on August 04, 2013, 04:47:14 PM
Yep, just let me make sure the video stuff works.
It does, prop browser is hanging things for some reason so took it out:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip
I finally managed to get ML running on my EOS M 2.0.2.
Took me a few tries but figured it out. Still has issues but is very useable.
Workflow:
First soft format your SD card on your computer.
Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
Next download files from the bitbucket.org link provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) on your SD card.
Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.org link (above) and copy it into the ML folder that you got from Alpha 1. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link.
Place the card in the EOS M and it should be ready to rock.
Quote from: feureau on August 05, 2013, 08:48:11 AM
I figured this is the mark for framing the raw_rec. Is there a way to disable this without having to turn off and turn on the camera with the raw_rec unloaded?
Huh? it should turn off as soon as you turn off raw video from movie menu. At least with my version of raw_rec (try the one from 5D3)
Quote from: a1ex on August 05, 2013, 10:20:57 AM
Huh? it should turn off as soon as you turn off raw video from movie menu. At least with my version of raw_rec (try the one from 5D3)
My bad. It's gone if you turn off raw video.
Thanks for this. :D
Thanks a lot for all your hard work!
Now all 3 cameras run ML! 8)
I managed boot the camera with the 2.0 ML but has the same problem after reboot. I have to update the firmware again to make it work. However the good news is that my eye-fi card works again! At least now we can play with the new ML for some time. Thanks very much and we are waiting for a stable update.
That looks like the raw box + the multi zone box together.
Yeah, and it turns out the raw box goes away when the raw is turned off. LOL :D My bad.. Thanks anyway.
btw, the screen error thingy. Sometimes it's purple, tt's green this time:
>http://youtu.be/0EOs11y1Uvk
I'm not sure how to reproduce this. It seems to happen randomly, and sometimes the liveview will stay purple.
The RAW came out okay though:
>http://www.mediafire.com/?12i1csw2juw9q8i
:)
Er, seems I was happy too early. The eyefi card doesn't work again after some time use. I found that the 5d3 ml actually works with eyefi card now. Can we also get that feature?
Intervalometer doesn't seem to work. It just freezes when it tries to take the first pic and the camera is also frozen so you have to take battery out to reset.
Auto Bracketing doesn't seem to work either. Seems like anything that uses ML to trigger the shutter or am I doing something wrong?
On the good side. RAW Video seems to work pretty good though works best at lower res (1472x500 continuous, 1536x522 526 frames). I'm getting 36.7 MB/s on Sandisk Extreme 64GB. Wohoo!
Camera does get a little hot doing RAW Video though.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 05, 2013, 10:00:08 PM
gamerblot,
can you help me? I just posted here a request for help to do raw video on t5he M. I have a Komputerbay 128GB SDXC Secure Digital Extended Capacity Speed Class 10 600X UHS-I Ultra High Speed Flash Memory Card 60MB/s Write 90MB/s Read 128 GB. will this card work with our M ML we have here now? I have not tried using this card yet cus I thought we needed a 32gb card to boot ML.
hey gary2013,
What I found with the SDXC cards in general is that they don't work out of the box and formatted directly in camera. You have to use the EOSCard utility to write the MBR so that they can be properly read by the camera. I don't have your particular KomputerBay 128GB SDXC (though I have a 128GB CF or my 5DM2) so I can't say but you can try to format to run EOSCard. Format it first on your computer, then format it in the camera to get the DCIM/MISC folders, then run EOSCard clicking EOS_DEVELOP, BOOTDISK and the big ML button, then click Save. Then load up the ML files onto the card and try. It worked for my Sandisk Extreme 64GB.
:)
Ok, will check full shutter press consts, etc. Possible that its wrong.
Well.. its all working here on a normally booted camera :(
This means that loading it like the alpha is causing issues.
As for raw, with a normally booting camera it should work with the 128gb. Try the "alpha" style boot and see what happens. BTW, shoot in photo mode JPG with multi shot NR to get the most free buffer.
I guess everything hinges on getting the bootflag updater to work correctly.
Quote from: gary2013 on August 05, 2013, 10:42:06 PM
gamer, i understand. but what do i do after that to record raw? what menus and settings do I use? As far as my card, I think what is important is the write speed and mine shows it has 60 MB/s and I think the other people with 5DM3 were saying they needed 90MB/s. I just want to see if it works on the M. I was returning this card and maybe getting a 90Mb/s card if the M can record Raw.
Make sure you have the raw_rec.mo module in your /ML/MODULES folder. Turn on your camera, Firmware Update to load ML. Turn your M to Video mode, click Load Modules in ML Config Menu, now go to the ML Video menu, find RAW Video at the bottom of the menu and tap it on the touchscreen. Options will appear such as Resolution, Aspect Ratio. Change it to the setting you want. Hit the Shutter to go back to Live View. You will see a white letterbox indicating the shooting window that you selected with your Resolution and Aspect Ratio settings. Hit the MENU button to record and again to stop. If the buffer fills up, then it will stop automatically.
I found that the max EOS-M goes is 36.7Mb/s regardless of how fast your SD card is so the Komputerbay 90MB/s is overkill on this camera and probably for all SD-based EOS cameras. This is because the SD read speed on the EOS-M probably maxes out there. It's still better than the 60D where I was only getting about 20Mb/s which meant shooting at even lower resolutions to get enough usable footage. Only the CF-capable EOS are getting better throughputs. That's why 5DM3 is so great and 5DM2, 50D and 7Ds are getting more attention in terms of RAW video.
I honestly want to use the EOS-M for timelapse only, and not RAW video, as it is so cheap, I can throw a few of them everywhere to get different timelapse perspectives or settings of the same scene. There so light you can throw a few of them in the bag compared to a full size DSLR and they have the same sensor as the 7D/60D. But had to try the RAW video out on this cheap bad boy and it does work if you need it in a pinch.
ML RAW Rec on 2.02.. quick on the run findings
1728x522 - continuous
1728x564 - 2000+ frames (ends unexpectedly though and once dumped out of ML.. best to use mode that's continuous for stability)
Nice but very unstable though, lots of battery pulls.. half shutter press to focus during raw freezes camera.. as do so many other things. If you use it in movie mode you can focus with screen presses
(sandisk 32gb extreme pro card)
:)
Yep, I can confirm the .fir version is about as stable as a 70yo crackhead.
Intervalometer freezes... for me modules don't even load. And no its not flashing your firmware every time, just hijacking the fw update code (like an xbox dashboard exploit, etc). Maybe its worse going from boot flagged autoexec.bin -> hijacked fir but from what you guys are saying doesn't sound like it.
Dear Developers,
It's an awesome initiative, I'm eager to try it especially because of the flawed stock firmware.
A couple of things that would be supernice to have, if they are possible:
- faster AF (without any steering)
- remap buttons (especially the rec button in photo mode)
- menu options (for delete, rotate, etc.) on tapping the screen during playback (like on Android)
- zoom with smaller increments (it zooms almost in the middle of the image right away)
- smoother slide animation when swiping through images
- direct MF, not just after AF lock
Thank you for your hard work, this will be irreplaceable.
I get 1600x410 2.35 @ 24fps running continuously with the hacks on.
Edit: Mine came with 2.0.2 installed
Quoteremap buttons (especially the rec button in photo mode)
The rec button doesn't produce any events in photo mode, fuckers turned it off.. hence the raw module lets you change it to menu.
The touch stuff has to be implemented in general. A prime target is the junkie menu since its all buttons.
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 05, 2013, 09:33:57 AM
I finally managed to get ML running on my EOS M 2.0.2.
Took me a few tries but figured it out. Still has issues but is very useable.
Workflow:
First soft format your SD card on your computer.
Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
Next download files from the bitbucket.org link provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) on your SD card.
Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.org link (above) and copy it into the ML folder that you got from Alpha 1. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link.
Place the card in the EOS M and it should be ready to rock.
Just for the record the combo is running stable on my EOSM - intervalometer and all that. Will try video raw on photo mode today.
1% you really are a superhero. The Canon guys need to take a lesson or two from A1ex, you and other ML developers. Thank you for all the GOOD work.
Quote from: gary2013 on August 05, 2013, 10:42:06 PM
gamer, i understand. but what do i do after that to record raw? what menus and settings do I use? As far as my card, I think what is important is the write speed and mine shows it has 60 MB/s and I think the other people with 5DM3 were saying they needed 90MB/s. I just want to see if it works on the M. I was returning this card and maybe getting a 90Mb/s card if the M can record Raw.
Get it here:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK
Copy the MODULE directory into the ML directory of the Alpha 1.06 build and copy AUTOEXEC.BIN over the Alpha 1.06 version in the main directory.
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 06, 2013, 03:39:45 AM
Just for the record the combo is running stable on my EOSM - intervalometer and all that. Will try video raw on photo mode today.
1% you really are a superhero. The Canon guys need to take a lesson or two from A1ex, you and other ML developers. Thank you for all the GOOD work.
Can you make it work after reboot without reflash?
That's the way to go. 650D just worked.So i dunno why this doesn't.
when I make installer it makes an autoexec.bin.. trying this bin; it boots with a solid light.. so the installer boot process isn't working?
:)
:)
Quote from: mixer2 on July 03, 2013, 09:22:45 PM
@Canon eos m: sorry, had no time to write you a detailed description how to remove dots etc. you really don't have to use rawmagic. i haven't tried RAWanizer so far, but if it can convert to dng via raw2dng, like 1% said, it should work just fine. else just try to convert it with the raw2dng.exe. just drag your raw file and drop it onto the raw2dng.exe file. this should give you working dng files. to remove dots download the latest dot removal tool:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/PinkDotRemover_debug.zip
Hi Mixer2 - Know where I can fetch a latest copy of pinkdot remover. Mine got corrupted and the link above does not have a copy anymore. Cheers!
Quote from: gary2013 on August 06, 2013, 05:34:29 AM
Anyone out there that can also help me get the MODULE directory so I can get those files installed to try out raw video stuff on my M? Gamerblot has been helpful and I have been trying to get this working all day today. searching, reading and I can't find it anywhere. I don't understand why I don't have it like everyone else seems to do. Can anyone just email the files and folder? garyalan24 at yahoo dot com
when i try Load Modules now, I always get two error messages saying 'B:/ML/Modules/eosm_202.sym' ; File does not exist
My bad, too many different download links. Needs to be consolidated. This is the right one:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip
:)
Shooting at 1280 x 720 25fps what would be the max card speed needed by EOS-M? I think many EOS-M users would be happy with 1280x720P if that's at all possible. If 20 MB/s is the fastest the EOS-M is capable of what is max video resolution we can get from that?
Well you can crop 720P from crop mode or shoot in zoom mode.
I think it needs a menu item to force zoom mode on so its easier to get into.
The current magic room is a good feature for MF lenses. But it still has some shortages. Once it was triggered by the half shutter, it won't disappear after releasing the shutter until half pressing it again. That is kind of a little annoying. But most importantly is that the enlarged image is just a simple magnification of the focus box area and the definition is very low, which is different from the liveview room effect. Is that possible to improve this function to make it more usable?
Its full screen if/when the display filter syncs.
Quote from: 1% on August 06, 2013, 07:28:26 AM
Its full screen if/when the display filter syncs.
So it's impossible to change that? I know the Sony nex has that function as default and my another canon ixus camera also has it.
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 06, 2013, 03:39:45 AM
Just for the record the combo is running stable on my EOSM - intervalometer and all that. Will try video raw on photo mode today.
1% you really are a superhero. The Canon guys need to take a lesson or two from A1ex, you and other ML developers. Thank you for all the GOOD work.
Quick question. Thought I read that there's no installer for those starting off in 2.02, but then read a post that said someone got it to work. Do these instructions work for new non-bootflagged 2.02? I only get the flashing green lights and have to battery pull. If these are the right instructions, can you update with a quick link to the bitbucket files? Thanks guys.
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 05, 2013, 09:33:57 AM
I finally managed to get ML running on my EOS M 2.0.2.
Took me a few tries but figured it out. Still has issues but is very useable.
Workflow:
First soft format your SD card on your computer.
Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
Next download files from the bitbucket.org link provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) on your SD card.
Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.org link (above) and copy it into the ML folder that you got from Alpha 1. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link.
Place the card in the EOS M and it should be ready to rock.
I followed this, used the UpDaterM.fir instead of updaterM202.fir which I couldn't find. Got it to install and run fine, although like others it isn't booting right into ML after turning it off/on. Other than that, don't have more time to play with it tonight, but great job 1%!!
For photo, try the x5/x10 zoom triggered by half-shutter. Of course, it won't work for video.
I've implemented it after playing with a NEX.
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 06, 2013, 05:35:38 AM
Hi Mixer2 - Know where I can fetch a latest copy of pinkdot remover. Mine got corrupted and the link above does not have a copy anymore. Cheers!
Hi, it's not the most recent, but that's still the version i use (still the same link. it should work...):
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/77bkw4u9nh7dt4d/PinkDotRemover_2013_07_15.zip
there is a newer version, but there were changes for the 650d which aren't optimized for eos m so far. since i'm very busy right now and the old version works great i didn't spent much time for the dot remover development. but there will be a new version soon.
1%
I figured out why my M behaved like that. I forgot to check EOS_DEVELOP in EOSCard.
Shame on me haha. :P
Quote from: Dark-Master on August 06, 2013, 10:25:51 AM
1%
I figured out why my M behaved like that. I forgot to check EOS_DEVELOP in EOSCard.
Shame on me haha. :P
So what does that mean?
Quote from: Drizzt321 on August 06, 2013, 08:08:00 AM
I followed this, used the UpDaterM.fir instead of updaterM202.fir which I couldn't find. Got it to install and run fine, although like others it isn't booting right into ML after turning it off/on. Other than that, don't have more time to play with it tonight, but great job 1%!!
I didn't see a zip file in the bitbucket. Am I missing somthing?
Quote from: haomuch on August 06, 2013, 01:08:49 PM
So what does that mean?
I did not set the card up properly. So ML didn't boot and the camera needed to be flashed every time I want to use ML.
Then I tried again from scratch and then I found out that I didn't set my sdcard up properly.
My camera has been boot flagged since Alpla 1.
@1% -- I AM GIVING YOU A STANDING OVATION. WELL DONE! THANK YOU
@Canon eos m - GREAT INSTRUCTIONS, thank you.
Who cares about the AF issues when you have vintage glass and focus peaking/MZ, and zoom on half shutter...This literally fixes every issue i had with this camera. WELL, WELL DONE.
Yea, I think people without boot flag are still stuck re "fashing" tho.
Quote from: Dark-Master on August 06, 2013, 04:56:48 PM
I did not set the card up properly. So ML didn't boot and the camera needed to be flashed every time I want to use ML.
Then I tried again from scratch and then I found out that I didn't set my sdcard up properly.
My camera has been boot flagged since Alpla 1.
Thanks very much! I also got it work now!
Quote from: millernet on August 06, 2013, 05:01:04 PM
@1% -- I AM GIVING YOU A STANDING OVATION. WELL DONE! THANK YOU
@Canon eos m - GREAT INSTRUCTIONS, thank you.
Who cares about the AF issues when you have vintage glass and focus peaking/MZ, and zoom on half shutter...This literally fixes every issue i had with this camera. WELL, WELL DONE.
Focus peaking is very good. But the magic zoom still need to be improved. I hope it can enlarge the focus area as clear as the liveview full screen room and auto hide after releasing the shutter. The liveview auto zoom on shutter function is also very good. But it is not very suitable for composition of pictures and the shutter also has some obvious delay after the view is zoomed. So it will be best to improve the magic zoom.
Quote from: Digital Guy on August 06, 2013, 06:12:47 AM
Shooting at 1280 x 720 25fps what would be the max card speed needed by EOS-M? I think many EOS-M users would be happy with 1280x720P if that's at all possible. If 20 MB/s is the fastest the EOS-M is capable of what is max video resolution we can get from that?
See my last post for resolutions but at 24fps I'm getting 38mb/s on a sandisk extreme pro card (rated for 90mb/s)
BTW, still wondering is it possible to disable the touch screen after it was turned off and only turn it on by hard keys. It could help avoid unintended touch between body and screen when hanging the camera on the neck.
Is there any solution to get rid of the dots in RAW video yet?
I tried "PinkDotRemover_2013_07_15.zip" with the DNGs. But it doesn't seem to work. I'm not sure if I did something wrong.
Quote from: Dark-Master on August 06, 2013, 05:44:48 PM
Is there any solution to get rid of the dots in RAW video yet?
I tried "PinkDotRemover_2013_07_15.zip" with the DNGs. But it doesn't seem to work. I'm not sure if I did something wrong.
I had the same experience. Googled and found the 2013-07-15 version of PDR but does not seem to work. It goes through the routine pretty smoothly but does not seem to remove the dots.
Quote from: haomuch on August 06, 2013, 05:36:49 PM
BTW, still wondering is it possible to disable the touch screen after it was turned off and only turn it on by hard keys. It could help avoid unintended touch between body and screen when hanging the camera on the neck.
This is really strange behavior. My EOS-M doesn't turn on when I touch it after it's turned off...
Check your power saving options. I suspect your LCD auto off is faster than your camera auto off. I usually set them to the same value.
Quote from: haomuch on August 06, 2013, 05:29:14 PM
Focus peaking is very good. But the magic zoom still need to be improved....
...it's 1 million times better than the stock firmware already. Thank you 1%!
Quote from: feureau on August 06, 2013, 06:21:55 PM
This is really strange behavior. My EOS-M doesn't turn on when I touch it after it's turned off...
Check your power saving options. I suspect your LCD auto off is faster than your camera auto off. I usually set them to the same value.
Well I Tried to set both of them auto off after 30 sec. But the screen still turn on after it was touched.......
Quote from: millernet on August 06, 2013, 06:26:07 PM
...it's 1 million times better than the stock firmware already. Thank you 1%!
Is there any reason by the way that the magic zoom (at least on 60D) seems to only zoom in the LCD screen resolution image and not the actual high-res 5X or 10X image that you get when you use the stock firmware zoom?
I wish I could get the stock firmware 5X but in a magic zoom box that I can move around.
@Dark-Master & Canon eos m:
about pink dot removal:
do you use "Movie crop mode"? there isn't dot removal data for non crop mode at the moment. since non crop mode videos do have totally useless quality. if anyone really want to use non crop mode raw video i can add the dot removal data for it.
Just send me a dng that doesn't work and i'll check what's going wrong.
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 06, 2013, 05:51:33 PM
I had the same experience. Googled and found the 2013-07-15 version of PDR but does not seem to work. It goes through the routine pretty smoothly but does not seem to remove the dots.
Same here.
The application seems to be working fine. And it did converted all my files. But the dots are still there. :o
@Dark-Master:
please read the post just above your last post.
Quote from: haomuch on August 06, 2013, 06:27:51 PM
Well I Tried to set both of them auto off after 30 sec. But the screen still turn on after it was touched.......
My bad. Set the turn camera off to 0 Sec.
Quote from: feureau on August 06, 2013, 08:50:01 PM
My bad. Set the turn camera off to 0 Sec.
Sorry I didn't get your point as I know the minimum auto turn LCD off time is 5 second.
Quote from: haomuch on August 06, 2013, 08:59:33 PM
Sorry I didn't get your point as I know the minimum auto turn LCD off time is 5 second.
What version is your firmware? I'm on 2.0.2
I see two power saving options:
LCD Auto Off: With minimum setting 15 sec.
and Camera auto off: With minimum setting at 0 Sec. < After turning off LCD, this is how long the camera waits until it turns itself off.
TL;DR - RTFM
Quote from: feureau on August 06, 2013, 09:42:32 PM
What version is your firmware? I'm on 2.0.2
I see two power saving options:
LCD Auto Off: With minimum setting 15 sec.
and Camera auto off: With minimum setting at 0 Sec. < After turning off LCD, this is how long the camera waits until it turns itself off.
TL;DR - RTFM
I understand what you mean. But what I want is not auto turn off the whole camera but just the LCD and sensor, and disable the touch screen afterwards. Currently the touch screen still work after the screen off. That's why I suggest this function.
BTW is there actually any difference between the camera auto turn off LCD and the ML auto turn off LCD? Does the former also turn off the sensor?
@1% when using movie crop mode, at 24p settings, when I go to movie rec size it says it's shooting at 30p but the ML LV display on the upper corner says it's 23.976, the recorded movie also says 23.976, but I'm not sure if it is, because you know, 24p and 30p don't look that much different. Maybe there's a bug or something in there?
Quote from: Indianac on August 06, 2013, 04:46:34 PM
I didn't see a zip file in the bitbucket. Am I missing somthing?
There are 3 files to download from this thread (plus the EOSCard app).
[EOSM202] (need to rename to have .zip extension): https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip)
UpDaterM.fir: http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK)
magiclantern-EOSM.106.Alpha1.zip: http://bit.ly/UP7Avg (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg)
So, here are the steps that I took, a slight modification along with correct links on Canon eos m instructions.
1. First soft format your SD card on your computer.
2. Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
3. Next download files from the bitbucket.org link (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip)) provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
4. Next copy the
updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) UpDaterM.fir (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK)) on your SD card.
5. Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
6. With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
7. Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the '
EOS_Develop' and
Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
8. Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg)) version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.
9. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link. (step 3)
Awesome Drizzt321! I was just rereading through the thread and about to try to answer my own question, so you've saved me some time. Now onto the tests.
QuoteMaybe there's a bug or something in there?
Yep, in canon code. This camera really likes 30P. Maybe in the future I can cache hack the normal 24p while recording over that stupid 720P30.
Also should note:
had boot flag -> just load autoexec.bin and alpha1 or nightly support files
no boot flag before: probably only loads the bin burned into the fir file.
Quote from: Indianac on August 07, 2013, 12:41:11 AM
Awesome Drizzt321! I was just rereading through the thread and about to try to answer my own question, so you've saved me some time. Now onto the tests.
You're welcome :)
OK, I installed ML no problem.
I turned on GlobalView: Live View. Set zebras on and histogram on. But I do not see them on the screen.
I turned on REC/Standby for video: I do not see them on the screen. Again, no ML overlays at all.
What is working (for me):
In video, I can up the bitrate - got it up to 63 Mbps.
I got the log working. But, no report of ISO (just = 0). It does report time, shutter speed, focus distance (I moved that around to check), and aperture. Why no ISO?
There is no audio in video mode. Will this be fixed?
I understand there are limitations, but let's fix the overlay issue (which may be me, but I can follow instructions and they should show as far as I can tell).
I of course appreciate very much the work that went into this and the supposed feature set, so these are not complaints, just questions.
Quote from: Drizzt321 on August 07, 2013, 12:14:04 AM
There are 3 files to download from this thread (plus the EOSCard app).
Thanks for posting the workflow with links ;D
Quote from: Drizzt321 on August 07, 2013, 12:14:04 AM
4. Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) UpDaterM.fir (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK)) on your SD card.
Question: Is the updater.fir a newer version than the updaterm202.fir?
One is a normal autoexec.bin signed, the other is supposed to be the installer(40KB).
Darn, followed the instructions and got further but I'm getting a "missing symbol file b:/ML/Modules" error right after the firmware update screen pops up. I checked and I have the EOSM_202.sym in the folder. What am I doing wrong here?
note: I was on a out of box 2.02, not upgraded. Did I jump the gun?
Quote from: mixer2 on August 06, 2013, 08:05:37 PM
@Dark-Master:
please read the post just above your last post.
Sorry, I missed the post.
I used 1472x500.
Is what you mean by crop mode the big white rectangle? I always record with white rectangle on.
Thank you.
:)
Quote from: Indianac on August 07, 2013, 06:57:32 AM
Darn, followed the instructions and got further but I'm getting a "missing symbol file b:/ML/Modules" error right after the firmware update screen pops up. I checked and I have the EOSM_202.sym in the folder. What am I doing wrong here?
I had this problem too: you need to copy the modules directory into the ML directory, not on the root level.
-Christian
Currently I use the liveview auto zoom to help MF give the magic room is not clear enough. But the half press trigger method is really a little annoying as it prevent immediate shutter sometime. I noticed that we can also use the exposure lock key to zoom. So can we only use this key to trigger this function?
Quote from: gamerblot on August 05, 2013, 09:31:27 PM
Intervalometer doesn't seem to work. It just freezes when it tries to take the first pic and the camera is also frozen so you have to take battery out to reset.
HDR doesn't seem to work either. Seems like anything that use ML to trigger the shutter automatically.
I got Intervalometer and HDR Auto Bracketing to work finally. After futzing around with it for awhile, this is what I found...
Basically, you have to turn on Intervalometer. The camera gets stuck and the shutter doesn't release. But then you hit the Power Off button and then again to Power On right away (if you wait more than a few seconds, ML disappears). The camera then turns back on and immediately starts taking pictures using the Intervalometer setting you set. You hit PLAY button to stop the Intervalometer, go back into the ML menu and now Intervalometer and Auto Bracketing works (or at least until you turn the camera off and ML disappears) and you can change your settings and use Intervalometer and Auto Bracketing.
This is obviously not ideal but it is a workaround for all you timelapsers out there like me.
Hope %1 and A1ex can figure out how to fix this Intervalometer/Auto Bracketing bug and make it so you don't have to Update Firmware every time you want to use ML on EOS-M 2.02. Keep up the great work!
Quote from: Dark-Master on August 07, 2013, 07:24:29 AM
Sorry, I missed the post.
I used 1472x500.
Is what you mean by crop mode the big white rectangle? I always record with white rectangle on.
Thank you.
you'll find the crop mode option in the ml movie menu "Movie crop mode". what sucks is that you'll get an additional crop factor of ~3 (it's a 100% crop on the sensor), therefore you'll get with 18mm a slightly narrower view than with 55mm. so you can't do wide angle shots with that option. but without that option the raw videos do have a imho useless quality. with that option enabled the quality is quite nice.
i'll create the dot removal data for non crop mode, but i don't think that anyone wants to use it.
Quote from: mixer2 on August 07, 2013, 10:48:29 AM
you'll find the crop mode option in the ml movie menu "Movie crop mode". what sucks is that you'll get an additional crop factor of ~3 (it's a 100% crop on the sensor), therefore you'll get with 18mm a slightly narrower view than with 55mm. so you can't do wide angle shots with that option. but without that option the raw videos do have a imho useless quality. with that option enabled the quality is quite nice.
i'll create the dot removal data for non crop mode, but i don't think that anyone wants to use it.
Thank you very much. I'll try that now.
Is there any possibility that we'll be able to shoot in non cop mode in usable quality?
Since my 60D only has buffer transfer limit @~20MB/s. I really hope my EOS M would do the better job since it has much bigger buffer. Just saying.
QuoteHope %1 and A1ex can figure out how to fix this Intervalometer/Auto Bracketing bug and make it so you don't have to Update Firmware every time you want to use ML on EOS-M 2.02. Keep up the great work!
Its the same problem. Intervalometer works on my camera with a regularly booting version.
Quote from: daduke on August 07, 2013, 10:04:16 AM
I had this problem too: you need to copy the modules directory into the ML directory, not on the root level.
-Christian
Thanks Christian. That did the trick! I'm on ML now for 2.02.
@Dark-Master: don't think that there will be usable non crop raw video on the eos m. the method canon scales the image down (by just skipping lines and rows, instead of interpolation) combined with the reduced vertical resolution from the sqeeze factor leads to miserable quality. but i don't know, maybe 1% can tell you if there is any hope.
i also had problems with the extreme cropfactor in crop mode first, but you can get used to it. especially with the new 11-22mm lense or a speedbooster (as soon as one for eos m is available) it should be possible to get wide enough angle of view for most situations. since it's cropped from the center and wide angle lenses are mainly distorted at the edges there shouldn't be much barrel distortion or stuff like that with wide angle lenses. have tested it with sigma 10-20mm, but don't use it much, since it doesn't has IS.
Quote from: gamerblot on August 07, 2013, 10:32:54 AM
I got Intervalometer and HDR Auto Bracketing to work finally. After futzing around with it for awhile, this is what I found...
Basically, you have to turn on Intervalometer. The camera gets stuck and the shutter doesn't release. But then you hit the Power Off button and then again to Power On right away (if you wait more than a few seconds, ML disappears). The camera then turns back on and immediately starts taking pictures using the Intervalometer setting you set. You hit PLAY button to stop the Intervalometer, go back into the ML menu and now Intervalometer and Auto Bracketing works (or at least until you turn the camera off and ML disappears) and you can change your settings and use Intervalometer and Auto Bracketing.
This is obviously not ideal but it is a workaround for all you timelapsers out there like me.
Hope %1 and A1ex can figure out how to fix this Intervalometer/Auto Bracketing bug and make it so you don't have to Update Firmware every time you want to use ML on EOS-M 2.02. Keep up the great work!
Quote from: 1% on August 07, 2013, 03:12:00 PM
Its the same problem. Intervalometer works on my camera with a regularly booting version.
OK, I found that you don't have to invoke the Intervalometer first. All you have to do Update Firmware to load ML, once on, just hit Power On/Off quickly twice (once to turn off, once to turn on) within a second (if you take longer than a second, ML is unloaded again) and Intervalomater and Auto Bracketing (and I am sure other ML features) work. This workaround is probably simulating what the bootflag would have done in the first place but for all those like me that got our EOS-M with 2.02 and not an upgrade from 1.06 with a ML bootflag previously, this is a workaround for now.
Hope %1 can figure out the bootflag for 2.02 firmware users soon
Quote from: gamerblot on August 07, 2013, 07:49:55 PM
OK, I found that you don't have to invoke the Intervalometer first. All you have to do Update Firmware to load ML, once on, just hit Power On/Off quickly twice (once to turn off, once to turn on) within a second (if you take longer than a second, ML is unloaded again) and Intervalomater and Auto Bracketing (and I am sure other ML features) work. This workaround is probably simulating what the bootflag would have done in the first place but for all those like me that got our EOS-M with 2.02 and not an upgrade from 1.06 with a ML bootflag previously, this is a workaround for now.
Hope %1 can figure out the bootflag for 2.02 firmware users soon
With my 2.02 firmware EOS-M and ML I can't get zebras to work or focus peaking or anything to show up overlaid on the screen - does this also require the on-off trick, or do you have those working? I do get the menus and higher bitrate video and other features working , so my install is fine.
Quote from: markr041 on August 07, 2013, 08:12:58 PM
With my 2.02 firmware EOS-M and ML I can't get zebras to work or focus peaking or anything to show up overlaid on the screen - does this also require the on-off trick, or do you have those working? I do get the menus and higher bitrate video and other features working , so my install is fine.
Zebras, focus peaking and Global Draw overlays are all working for me without need to do the on/off trick. I just need to do the on/off trick for shutter release type ML functions.
Quote from: gamerblot on August 07, 2013, 08:26:07 PM
Zebras, focus peaking and Global Draw overlays are all working for me without need to do the on/off trick. I just need to do the on/off trick for shutter release type ML functions.
Thanks. All I needed to do was press the 'Display' button to get rid of the Canon icons (as the ML instructions say in the camera!) and everything shows up.
Quote from: markr041 on August 07, 2013, 02:30:38 AM
OK, I installed ML no problem.
I turned on GlobalView: Live View. Set zebras on and histogram on. But I do not see them on the screen.
I turned on REC/Standby for video: I do not see them on the screen. Again, no ML overlays at all.
What is working (for me):
In video, I can up the bitrate - got it up to 63 Mbps.
I got the log working. But, no report of ISO (just = 0). It does report time, shutter speed, focus distance (I moved that around to check), and aperture. Why no ISO?
There is no audio in video mode. Will this be fixed?
I understand there are limitations, but let's fix the overlay issue (which may be me, but I can follow instructions and they should show as far as I can tell).
I of course appreciate very much the work that went into this and the supposed feature set, so these are not complaints, just questions.
You're an idiot, Markr041:
1. All you needed to do was press the 'Display' button to get rid of the Canon icons (as the ML instructions say in the camera!) and everything shows up - histogram, zebras, STANDBY. and a lot of info on settings, even the name of the file.
2. Audio is disabled only when you add some features (Video hacks).
Quote from: gamerblot on August 07, 2013, 08:26:07 PM
Zebras, focus peaking and Global Draw overlays are all working for me without need to do the on/off trick. I just need to do the on/off trick for shutter release type ML functions.
What is that trick?
Quote from: haomuch on August 07, 2013, 10:56:13 PM
What is that trick?
The on/off trick. Basically you Update Firmware to load ML. Then you hit Power On/Off once to turn off and then immediately again to turn on (must do it within a second or so of turning off or ML will be gone from memory). ML should still be there and shutter release features such as Intervalometer and HDR Auto Bracketing will work where they didn't before.
This trick is only necessary for all those with EOS-M 2.02 from factory. If you upgraded from 1.06 and had loaded ML for 1.06 with bootflag and still have it, you don't need to re-flash every time and you shouldn't need this trick.
:)
:)
Quote from: mixer2 on August 07, 2013, 05:52:34 PM
@Dark-Master: don't think that there will be usable non crop raw video on the eos m. the method canon scales the image down (by just skipping lines and rows, instead of interpolation) combined with the reduced vertical resolution from the sqeeze factor leads to miserable quality. but i don't know, maybe 1% can tell you if there is any hope.
i also had problems with the extreme cropfactor in crop mode first, but you can get used to it. especially with the new 11-22mm lense or a speedbooster (as soon as one for eos m is available) it should be possible to get wide enough angle of view for most situations. since it's cropped from the center and wide angle lenses are mainly distorted at the edges there shouldn't be much barrel distortion or stuff like that with wide angle lenses. have tested it with sigma 10-20mm, but don't use it much, since it doesn't has IS.
I see. Thank you very much.
ML is still freakin' awesome for EOS M, thanks to you guys.
Has anyone ever gotten a purple screen?
I randomly get those but can't seem to figure out what causes it (and it means that I can't tell you the steps on how to reproduce it). It usually happens when I half-press the shutter button, but also on other occasion.
https://vimeo.com/71944234
This is one sequence shot in RAW mode with the EOS M. Then, the single RAW file (one take) was split into its 800 frames as 800 sequentially numbered .DNG files. The .DNG files were read into Adobe Lightroom, where white balance was set (I chose the daylight setting). I also lowered ev by one third and then all 800 files were outputted as .Tif files. The set of 800 Tiff files (really frames) were read into Sony Vegas Pro and then rendered out as an MP4 file with a bitrate of 40Mbps at 29.970. The original frame rate was 29.970, shot at 720p in 2:35 aspect ratio (1280x544) - and that is what you see. The sequence bitrate in the camera was about 35 megabytes per second and continuous shooting (I could have shot until the file size limit). The original RAW file was almost 1 Gigabyte for this 25-second sequence shot in extremely bright sun.
Quote from: feureau on August 08, 2013, 06:49:51 AM
Has anyone ever gotten a purple screen?
I randomly get those but can't seem to figure out what causes it (and it means that I can't tell you the steps on how to reproduce it). It usually happens when I half-press the shutter button, but also on other occasion.
A tip, a bug and a comment:
Tip: shut global draw when recording RW video - pushes the CPU use age by half leaving more room for the buffer to take in extra shots;
Bug: if the magic zoom is turned on while HDR video recording, the video just keeps recording and cannot be shut off till the battery is removed and nothing is saved; and
Comment: I don't have the issues with Auto Bracket and Intervalometer that has been pointed by some (i.e., don't have to shut off and on to secure their functioning).
Quote from: markr041 on August 08, 2013, 07:04:53 AM
https://vimeo.com/71944234
This is one sequence shot in RAW mode with the EOS M. Then, the single RAW file (one take) was split into its 800 frames as 800 sequentially numbered .DNG files. The .DNG files were read into Adobe Lightroom, where white balance was set (I chose the daylight setting). I also lowered ev by one third and then all 800 files were outputted as .Tif files. The set of 800 Tiff files (really frames) were read into Sony Vegas Pro and then rendered out as an MP4 file with a bitrate of 40Mbps at 29.970. The original frame rate was 29.970, shot at 720p in 2:35 aspect ratio (1280x544) - and that is what you see. The sequence bitrate in the camera was about 35 megabytes per second and continuous shooting (I could have shot until the file size limit). The original RAW file was almost 1 Gigabyte for this 25-second sequence shot in extremely bright sun.
That is awesome. What make/model card are you using? :3
Quote from: feureau on August 08, 2013, 09:15:44 AM
That is awesome. What make/model card are you using? :3
Sandisk Extreme 32GB (class 10, UH-1). Claims 50 MB per second write speed.
if anyone wants to try a current pink dot remover test version:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/m0bxzd23p4zow8o/PinkDotRemover_2013_08_08.zip
new features:
* add files via drag and drop
* remove files from list via "del" key
* eosm dot removal data for non crop mode again (it isn't really tested, just the 1472x500 resolution for Dark-Master is tested. if you find any resolution that doesn't work please report it!)
* renamed dot data files. use CropMode for eos-m or 650d in crop mode. use EOSM for eos-m raw video without crop mode and for silent dngs.
* last dropdown selection gets saved that you don't have to select it each time you start the program
since it's based on current version all the latest changes from foorgol are also in that version. you can remove dots directly from the raw files not just the dngs and other improvements. check the 650d pdr thread for details http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6658.125
I'm exporting my first real test of the EOS M raw video, recorded using the full sensor at max resolution at 24fps and 2.39 aspect ratio. I resized it in AE to fix the stretch, but so far it's looking pretty good. At this resolution I'm getting continuous recording and it looks about as good as the full res looked on my 60D, except that only got me ~11 seconds.
:)
The 20MB/s SD cameras uprezzed OK, no reason why digic V won't.
Has anyone been able to use the intervalometer functionality on the EOS-M yet?
If so, are there any tricks? Thanks!
@gary2013:
non crop with max resolution and 2.39 aspect ratio is 1728x436.
the maximum continuous record speed you can get with eos m is ~35-36mb/s. and you'll get that speed with all fast sd cards, since the sd controller is much slower than the max write speeds of high speed sd cards.
if you want to be sure that the video doesn't stop even for longer recordings you imho shouldn't record above 34mb/s, even if it tells you that continuous recording works.
my prefered settings are: 1408x600 (2.35:1) in crop mode at 23.98fps (no fps override since it isn't needed in crop mode) 33,7mb/s and i use 32gb sandisk extreme 45mb/s card.
@handbanana:
don't know how 60D videos exactly look, but on my eos m videos without crop just aren't usable. why haven't you used a more vertical aspect ratio like 2.20:1 (32,7mb/s) or even 2:1 (36,1mb/s) should be possible with 1728 24fps.
do you want to show us the video?
@cameron12x:
intervalometer works for me just like expected.
@mixer2 I just tested your PinkDotRemover and works fine at 1408x600 (2.35:1) in crop mode 8)
:)
I recorded at the max res the EOS M lets you on a PNY Class 10 card. And I would upload but my internet is shite at the moment. How would a more vertical aspect ratio help at all? I thought the squeeze factor was the same, and I just prefer the look of 2.39.
Why do you say it is unusable? From my far from perfect test I think I'm getting more detail than from H264, and of course the latitude with raw is another bonus. I think I saw a couple jaggies on a string, but for what it's worth it's a small price to pay for other benefits. Maybe I'll notice it more in other subjects, but so far it's not a bad compromise for a $300 camera shooting raw. I'll have to try the crop mode, but I would much rather be able to use the whole sensor.
here is a screen grab from the video
http://i.imgur.com/m52FyVe.jpg
Edit: Well, imgur really messed with the quality so this is a terrible example lol
ah ok if you really wanted the exact 2.39 ratio, it's correct to record it. i just prefer to record maximum possible and if i decide in post, that i want a more horizontal aspect ratio it's easy to add a letterbox. the unused pixels can be helpful for finetuning vertical position in that case.
it won't btw use the "whole sensor" anyways. the pixels are just picked from the whole sensor area, instead of the center. but it does just use 753408 of the 17915904 pixels. ~4,2% of the sensor.
crop mode has all the benefits from non crop mode raw, but additionally looks really great. no jagging edges, much less aliasing. the downside is of course the additional crop factor that makes it hard to get wide angle shots or narrow depth of field.
try some shots with fine details, far away objects or hard edges and compare h.264, crop mode raw and non crop mode raw. then you'll see how much better crop mode works.
@mixer2: Where are the instructions for the intervalometer? It likes 10s is the only option? I would think it would be more flexible than that.
Also, I get error loading symbol files, despite having the EOS_202.sym file in the MODULES folder. Thanks!
try tapping on the screen while the intervalometer option is highlighted in the ml menu. you should get into the submenu to configure the interval duration, an timer offset to start the recording, a time limit to stop recording and the settings for expo- and focusramp.
I can get to the sub-menu, no problem. I don't see how to change the setting from 10s, once there, however.
5. Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
6. With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
7. Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
========================================================
Can anyone help me about step5~7 ? Because I don't understand what means........ :'(
@cameron12x:
press set in the submenu and then turn the maindial or press left or right on the main dial to adjust the setting.
@mixer2: Thanks for the baby steps. I see how to do that now.
But how do I get the sequence to actually start? I tried setting a test run of 4 images, and it looked like the intervalometer counted down and went through the process, but when I try to review images it says no images found?
Its working normally on the actual autoexec.bin version. I can't attest to the signed version since people seem to be having issues.
What is the "signed version" and how does that affect the intervalometer?
Signed version = fir
Normal version = autoexec.bin
If you're having to run the fir every time and got EOSM with 2.02 pre-installed then you're stuck with the signed version for now.
So, here are the steps that I took, a slight modification along with correct links on Canon eos m instructions.
1. First soft format your SD card on your computer.
2. Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
3. Next download files from the bitbucket.org link (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip) provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
4. Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) UpDaterM.fir (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK) on your SD card.
5. Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
6. With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
7. Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
8. Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg) version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.
9. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link. (step 3)
Ive been using ML with 1.0.6 for a while. Im now trying to install the 2.0.2 version. Stupid question: Do I need to update the camera with canons 2.0.2 firmware prior to this, or is the formware upgrade "included" in any of the above files?
Ive followed the above guide, but I haven't upgraded the camera with canons 2.0.2. firmware, and all I get is a black screen and a blinking green diod after the update-screen.
Henrik
Quote from: 1% on August 09, 2013, 04:30:33 PM
Signed version = fir
Normal version = autoexec.bin
If you're having to run the fir every time and got EOSM with 2.02 pre-installed then you're stuck with the signed version for now.
My camera came with 2.0.2 pre-installed.
I have both of those files in my root folder. Is that correct?
What does the signed version do differently from the autoexec.bin version?
The signed version doesn't boot flag your camera. I think you can remove autoexec.bin in this case and just use the .fir every time, you're doing it anyway.
I have no way to test because my camera has the flag and boots off autoexec.bin at start. AFAIK this is how the 5D3/EOSM alpha worked. Someone has to try it.
Quote from: Henrik on August 09, 2013, 04:57:00 PM
So, here are the steps that I took, a slight modification along with correct links on Canon eos m instructions.
1. First soft format your SD card on your computer.
2. Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
3. Next download files from the bitbucket.org link (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip) provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
4. Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) UpDaterM.fir (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK) on your SD card.
5. Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
6. With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
7. Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
8. Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg) version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.
9. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link. (step 3)
Ive been using ML with 1.0.6 for a while. Im now trying to install the 2.0.2 version. Stupid question: Do I need to update the camera with canons 2.0.2 firmware prior to this, or is the formware upgrade "included" in any of the above files?
Ive followed the above guide, but I haven't upgraded the camera with canons 2.0.2. firmware, and all I get is a black screen and a blinking green diod after the update-screen.
Henrik
Installed the 2.0.2 update. ML works, but I have to re-flash it everytime I restart my camera. Is there any way to get around this?
I don't understand this whole bootflag thing. I thought that if I already had ML on 1.0.6 I wouldnt get this problem!?
If someone could explain it in an easy way I would be very greatful! :)
[EOSM202] zip file (bitbucket) (http://bit.ly/19h2otN) (add .zip file extension)
contains
MODULES folder +
autoexec.binUpDaterM.fir file (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK)
contains single
UpDaterM.fir file
magiclantern-EOSM.106.Alpha1.zip (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg)
contains
__MACOSX and
ML folders,
autoexec.bin and
EOSM106.fir files.
I believe
only the
ML folder is used for this install. Use the autoexec.bin from the [EOSM202] zip file.
Quote1. First soft format your SD card on your computer.
2. Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
Ok, easy enough.
Quote3. Next download files from the bitbucket.org link (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip) provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
So the MODULES folder + autoexec.bin gets copied straight to the root of the SD card at this point.
Quote4. Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) UpDaterM.fir (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK) on your SD card.
At this point, the root of the SD card would have the following, correct:
DCIM
(folder)MISC
(folder)MODULES
(folder)autoexec.bin
UpDaterM.fir
Quote5. Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
6. With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
7. Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
At this step, Clicking the big 'ML' icon first
and then clicking save worked for me. The save was practically instant, 'write successful' at the bottom of the window.
Quote8. Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg) version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.
9. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link. (step 3)
So
only the 'ML' folder is being copied to the root of the card (not the EOSM106.fir or autoexec.bin files that come with the Alpha1 zip)? At this point the MODULES folder should be moved inside the 'ML' folder and also copy over the _MACOSX folder to the root of the SD card.
All said and done, if the MODULES folder gets placed inside the ML folder, the root of the SD card will have the following:
_MACOSX
(folder)DCIM
(folder)MISC
(folder)ML
(folder)autoexec.bin
UpDaterM.fir
Clear your settings in the camera, go to the EOS firmware and update. After doing this, firmware update is very brief and if you don't see it right away, hitting the Info button takes you to the ML live screen. Touch the screen with two fingers and the ML menus will appear.
@mixer2:
I'll compare it all next week, I have a bunch of planning for this shoot I'm directing (not to mention finishing this music video) to take up my time now lol.
I know the crop will probably be better detail, but the crop and lack of shallow depth are a bummer. I'll probably end up using them both as needed for shoots I use the EOS M for raw. As it stands now this camera is my best bet for raw video since my 60D and T2i have slow SD card controllers. If the non-crop raw on the M resolves more detail than the H264, then it will be a nice upgrade for now given that I'll get sharper images and more latitude. I don't necessarily even mind the H264 still as I still use it for a bunch of stuff, so we'll see how useful raw even is for me. Also I have no idea how to use the pixel remover thing lol.
What does this EOSCard utility do exactly and what are the equivalent steps for a Linux user? Thanks!
@ wuxiekeji I was on the same boat too.
Found solution under "Installing Magic Lantern on other cards" subject here:
http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install
make_bootable.sh
ExFAT is completly broken and at least Ubuntus fuse based exFAT refuses to even mount the card after trying so FATxx is the way to go.
Hi All,
New to this forum as I recently purchased an EOS M only to find that remote capture does not work.
This is a feature that would be supremely useful to me as I tend to do a lot of self filming for vlogs.
Is there any status update on where we're at with enabling this via ML?
Any info is greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
Remote capture as in recording via EOS Utility?
Quote from: handbanana on August 10, 2013, 12:29:46 AM
Remote capture as in recording via EOS Utility?
Correct. Or
any software for that matter.
Why don't you just use an external monitor via the HDMI or the other port (the red/yellow/white cable)?
Quote from: freshbreath on August 09, 2013, 07:45:45 PM
About those instructions:
At this step, Clicking the big 'ML' icon first and then clicking save worked for me. The save was practically instant, nothing was written to the card. Should there have been?
So only the 'ML' folder is being copied to the root of the card (not the EOSM106.fir or autoexec.bin files that come with the Alpha1 zip)? At this point, should the MODULES folder be moved inside the 'ML' folder? Remember that according to step 3, the MODULES folder and UpDaterM.fir were already transferred over.
So what am I doing wrong?
Keep the _MACOSX file also on the Card
Getting these combinations to work with the EOSCard utility for the EOS M is a bit tricky.
I think the steps that is not working for you is the save from the EOSCard. See the screen shot from the EOSCard after the SD is in the reader: http://www.flickr.com/photos/89977905@N05/9476620696/
(Sorry to point you to my flickr account. I don't know how to post a picture directly in-thread) :P
The trick is to first refresh and then press save. Do it as many times as it takes. You will hit the sweet spot eventually. It took me a few tries too.
Quote from: handbanana on August 10, 2013, 02:40:43 AM
Why don't you just use an external monitor via the HDMI or the other port (the red/yellow/white cable)?
While this is a decent short term solution (thanks!) it still requires me to control from the camera which makes it a bit cumbersome.
That's why I was asking about remote view. Another thought I had was if it was possible to use an Eye-Fi card for remote view/control
over wifi?
No boot flag, fir
if you had 1.06 make sure the card itself is bootable too (ie the EOSCARD step) for linux just run it in wine.
If you had 2.0.2 and no ML you need the fir file + ml folder/modules/sym
For the utility, it just may not work. The camera has to create jpegs in parallel to send over USB. Will have to log it and see.
Help: How do I set WB back to AUTO in ML. I set the Kelvin temperature and can change that but I no longer see AUTO as a choice. When I turn off the camera and do not boot into ML, I cannot change WB. The Wiki says nothing about getting back to AUTO.
I had to reset all settings to default in the Canon menu to get back WB control. Is this normal?
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 10, 2013, 03:13:01 AM
Keep the _MACOSX file also on the Card
Getting these combinations to work with the EOSCard utility for the EOS M is a bit tricky.
I think the steps that is not working for you is the save from the EOSCard. See the screen shot from the EOSCard after the SD is in the reader: http://www.flickr.com/photos/89977905@N05/9476620696/
(Sorry to point you to my flickr account. I don't know how to post a picture directly in-thread) :P
The trick is to first refresh and then press save. Do it as many times as it takes. You will hit the sweet spot eventually. It took me a few tries too.
Ok, turns out I had it the first time. I see the ML menu when I use two fingers to touch the screen. The MACOSX folder did need to be copied over.
Quote from: 1% on August 10, 2013, 05:09:23 AM
No boot flag, fir
if you had 1.06 make sure the card itself is bootable too (ie the EOSCARD step) for linux just run it in wine.
If you had 2.0.2 and no ML you need the fir file + ml folder/modules/sym
For the utility, it just may not work. The camera has to create jpegs in parallel to send over USB. Will have to log it and see.
I think this is functionality that a LOT of people will want: remote shooting.
Separate topic now. I have the new EOS-M and it came with the 2.0.2 firmware installed. I've gone through what I understand to be the ML installation process and I have these folders and files:
DCIM -- for photos
MISC -- currently empty
ML -- subfolders: DATA (contains FONTS.DAT file), MODULES (contains modules), SETTINGS (contains MAGIC.CFG file)
autoexec.bin (381K)
UpDaterM.fir (393K)
My MODULES sub-folder contains the following files:
EOSM_202.sym (34K)
ETTR.CFG (1K)
ettr.mo (17K)
file_man.mo (14K)
pic_view.mo (5K)
RAW_REC.CFG (1K)
raw_rec.mo (33K)
Are those the correct files for the MODULES sub-folder? Do I have all of the needed files?
Also, what about a SYM sub-folder? Is one needed? If so, does it go under the MODULES folder? And if so, what should it contain (and where to get the files)?
Note: when flashing the firmware (I have to do this every time I start the camera), I get the following message:
"ML/CROPMKS dir is missing" What is this all about and how do I fix it?
*** Many thanks in advance for help with all of this ! ***
Quote from: cameron12x on August 10, 2013, 06:14:09 AM
Note: when flashing the firmware (I have to do this every time I start the camera), I get the following message:
"ML/CROPMKS dir is missing" What is this all about and how do I fix it?
*** Many thanks in advance for help with all of this ! ***
In your case it seems to be looking for folders/files found in __MACOSX directory of the Alpha zip. Copy that over to the root directory of your SD card as well.
Quote from: freshbreath on August 10, 2013, 06:03:00 AM
Ok, turns out I had it the first time. I see the ML menu when I use two fingers to touch the screen. The MACOSX folder did need to be copied over.
We're you able to get the ML update working on the EOSM?
Quote from: freshbreath on August 10, 2013, 06:28:19 AM
In your case it seems to be looking for folders/files found in __MACOSX directory of the Alpha zip. Copy that over to the root directory of your SD card as well.
Hmm... interesting. What do those folders/files do? What do they have to do with "crop marks?" Why __MACOSX?
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 10, 2013, 09:19:52 AM
We're you able to get the ML update working on the EOSM?
I did, thank you. Turns out I had done it right the first (or second) time. I was expecting the ML green install screen to show up but this method is a different type of install.
a test i did today:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/p1qo960nrhmcd7g/crop_vs_non_crop.webm
1. 18mm raw video crop mode (no sharpening, some saturation added)
2. 55mm raw video non crop mode (no sharpening, some saturation added), @handbanana: that's why i said, that non crop mode is just not usable
3. 55mm h.264 auto picture style
4. 18mm h.264 video crop mode auto picture style
5. same as 1. but with a lot sharpening
6. same as 3. with the same sharpening as 5.
7. same as 1. with noise reduction, additional saturation and a lot of sharpening
i should have added 3 more pixels to the letterbox at top and bottom to cut the distorted rows. -.-
what the video imho shows:
- h.264 crop mode is bit softer than h.264 but still usable and of course there is much less aliasing
- crop mode raw video on eos m looks really great... less aliasing than h.264 non crop mode and flat image that has imho a very cinematic look out of the box.
- again, raw non crop mode imho isn't usable!!
- h.264 also doesn't has perfect edges (if that lowers the expectations what you should get out of the raw)
- you can add a lot more sharpening to the raw video than to the h.264 in post, without overdoing it and getting to bad sharpening artifacts. this also leads to a sharper overall result.
EDIT:
something totally went wrong with my export from yesterday. hadn't really checked it after export and expected it to be nearly the same i saw in the editor. but as i watched the exported video today i saw that the quality was much worse, because the editing software exported 24i instead of 24p.
i did a fresh export and updated the link...
Quote from: cameron12x on August 10, 2013, 01:35:58 PM
Hmm... interesting. What do those folders/files do? What do they have to do with "crop marks?" Why __MACOSX?
Ok, I've created the CROPMKS folder under ML and placed a couple of cropmark (bmp) files there from the library.
I've selected one from the ML menu and have enabled cropmarks, but they don't show up in either video record mode or standard still image mode. What might I be doing wrong? Thanks!
I played around with the ML successfully on my EOS-M... but I can't, for the life of me, get video in high-bit-rate or Raw video right on my part.
In order to do RAW, do I shot in Camera or Movie Mode, and do I shoot in the Menu button or LiveView (if so, where is the LiveView mode)?
Also, how do I obtain a slightly higher bit rate other than 45+.
Still a newbie at all of this, but quite fascinated so far.
I know there are many people who are focusing on video and want make their camera to be a top tier video shooter. But can we also spend some time to improve the photo functions such as the magic room since this is a camera after all?
And also we are really eager to see eyefi card support since the 5d2 ml has supported it.
Well first I want to fix the installer... I have no eye-fi card so its kinda hard to test for something I haven't used. MZ and display filters are the next top fixes for this but they haven't been done for lack of trying.. its just kind of a tough nut to crack.
Quote from: 1% on August 11, 2013, 09:08:08 PM
Well first I want to fix the installer...
Yes - that sounds like a very good idea! I guess it will help trying and testing the functions of ML on the EOS M without being irritated by just geting it to work somehow. :)
Anyway ... it´s still fantastic to read how much efford you put in your ML work. Thanks!
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 11, 2013, 10:16:28 PM
+1 on fixing the installer. It's a real PIA always having to to install thru update firmware each time. :-) I have also asked a few easy questions here and no one ever answered. Is there another way to get into ML menus besides a two finger swipe? I only have one finger from a car accident and its difficult for me always needing to use two toes and leave a shoe off all the time. LOL J/K, but I would rather have the Menu button open ML menus. And, how do I exit ML menus? I have been waiting until it exits on its own. I would rather the menu stays open and then we hit some button to close the menus. The menus keep shutting off on me while I try to read and learn things within them. Then I have to swipe the display again with two toes to continue with where I left off. :-)
Gary
+1000! Amen.
Here's something I did using the ML Timelapse method. The ungraded master I had (png to losless codec) was close to 1GB, were graded afterwards.
Anyways, I like the timelapse as a tester I did.
http://youtu.be/Tv1tgitfenM
Can someone say what is the largest 4:3 size that can be recorded in crop mode at 24p
I dont have EOSM.
1024x768 (31,4 mb/s) or maybe 1088x816 (35,5 mb/s)... i would choose 1024x768 to be sure that it doesn't stop or skip frames after some minutes. the few extra pixels at 1088x816 shouldn't make much difference in quality. ml says continous recording ok, but for me it stopped after ~2 mins with 1088x816.
i can upload some 1024x768 sample shots tomorrow if they may help to judge the quality.
I couldn't seem to find this, but does defishing supposed to work with EOS-M?
How do you use it? (there's no liveview button on it)
:)
Hi mixer2,
a 2 sec raw file of a flower or similar would be most appreciated, at your convenience of course. Something I could evaluate and also try some PDR on
Thanks
Quote from: mixer2 on August 12, 2013, 09:02:27 PM
1024x768 (31,4 mb/s) or maybe 1088x816 (35,5 mb/s)... i would choose 1024x768 to be sure that it doesn't stop or skip frames after some minutes. the few extra pixels at 1088x816 shouldn't make much difference in quality. ml says continous recording ok, but for me it stopped after ~2 mins with 1088x816.
i can upload some 1024x768 sample shots tomorrow if they may help to judge the quality.
@JohnBarlow:
ok, i'll send you some samples tomorrow...
@gary2013:
could you upload a sample... it's hard to guess what's going wrong, without seeing the result.
do you have removed the af dots? is it really noise or blue and pink dots (small crosses)? af dots go all over the image in crop mode and from left to right, but just in the middle in non crop mode.
raw video is btw always more noisy than h264, since h264 is already noise filtered in camera. you should use a good noise filter.
QuoteI couldn't seem to find this, but does defishing supposed to work with EOS-M?
New Peaking
Defish
Anamorphic
All of these things need a good vsync to work in video mode. Right now only in photo review mode.
:)
I have everything installed, ML is running, but when I try RAW video, the light starts blinking indicating it's recording? but no files show up on SD.
also, I have to re install the FW each time I reboot cam, is this a current issuing being worked around right now?
Quote from: 1% on August 13, 2013, 01:18:06 AM
New Peaking
Defish
Anamorphic
All of these things need a good vsync to work in video mode. Right now only in photo review mode.
I see! How do I trigger defish and anamorphic preview in photo review mode? Tried everything but nothing seems to work...
@gary2013:
Try to remove the dots with this tool:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/m0bxzd23p4zow8o/PinkDotRemover_2013_08_08.zip
you need to have java jre installed to run the tool. (you can find it there, if it isn't already installed http://java.com/en/download/index.jsp)
if java is installed unzip the PinkDotRemover and doubleclick onto the PinkDotRemover.jar file.
to remove dots just drag and drop the RAW or the DNGs files onto the white area at the left of the tool. you can also use the "Add files"-Button, instead of drag and drop. then select EOSM or Crop Mode from the dropdown.
you should have two types of video:
1. dots are all over the image + image is not vertically squeezed (=> Crop Mode)
2. dots are just in the center + image is vertically squeezed (=> EOSM)
be sure to select "interpolate" at the radio buttons below the dropdown.
then click "Convert Files". If you've added a RAW-file it gets overwritten (so you should make a copy first), if you added DNGs you should find in the same folder copys of the DNG files with a _ prefix. the dots should be gone in that new files.
cloud storages work very well to post images, video etc. for example dropbox, box.com, google drive (if you've already a google account), skydrive (if you've already microsoft/hotmail account), etc etc...
or upload it to a file bin service like this, as long as the files aren't to large (max 20MB):
http://www.qfpost.com/
as noise filter i prefer neat video. there are after effects and premiere plugins for it and it can be testet with a free demo.
but there are also a lot of other noise filters, also free ones, you can use. just do any noise filtering on raw video, since it has a lot of noise, even at iso 100.
:)
I dont have EOSM, so can someone say what is max number of frames @24p 1280x720 in crop mode?
With fastest card
Thanks
I got 2897 Frames at 1280x720 24p, with 32gb sandisk extreme 45MB/s (=> the sd-controller is the bottleneck).
i'll do the flower testshot in few mins... just have to finish some work first.
Quote from: JohnBarlow on August 13, 2013, 02:58:37 PM
I dont have EOSM, so can someone say what is max number of frames @24p 1280x720 in crop mode?
unlimited
Thanks
Quote from: mixer2 on August 13, 2013, 03:28:13 PM
I got 2897 Frames at 1280x720 24p, with 32gb sandisk extreme 45MB/s (=> the sd-controller is the bottleneck).
i'll do the flower testshot in few mins... just have to finish some work first.
One more question
Can you record avchd in 3x crop mode or is is just for RAW record?
Quote from: JohnBarlow on August 13, 2013, 03:35:26 PM
Impressive!, what card did you use?
SanDisk 95 mb/s
QuoteCan you record avchd in 3x crop mode or is is just for RAW record?
Yes, moire/aliasing-free 3x H.264.
@rush:
have you tested it or trusted the ml prediction?
@JohnBarlow:
you can record h.264 in crop mode. looks bit softer than h.264 in non crop mode, since it's a 100% crop.
check the video i posted few posts above:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/p1qo960nrhmcd7g/crop_vs_non_crop.webm
the 3rd part (sec 10-15) is h.264 55mm in non crop mode and 4th (sec 15-20) is h.264 18mm in crop mode.
Quote from: Rush on August 13, 2013, 05:00:00 PM
SanDisk 95 mb/s
Yes, moire/aliasing-free 3x H.264.
Is this the same movie crop mode in ML? I still get moire with this on. Have you tried shooting a test chart?
@rush, @mixer2
Thanks, very useful information on the crop modes, better aliasing in crop mode and maybe a sharper lens can improve things. The 22mm is supposed to have very sharp centre performance
To summarise in 3x ML crop mode you can
1 record h264 at 1080p, no PDR required
2 record RAW at 720p with a 95 MB card and use PDR
@JohnBarlow:
i really don't think that the 95mb/s card would give you any benefit.
@feureau:
technically 100% crop doesn't mean no aliasing. i read that multiple times, but it's still a digital measurement, which means, if you're signal (the light that comes from the lense) has more detail than your sensor resolution you'll get aliasing effects.
since sensors have such high resolutions and lenses aren't that sharp, it's hard to get any aliasing with 100% crop. and it's definitely much better than without crop.
On 6D I can record 720P continuously so I don't see why it wouldn't work here. Its pretty much the same controller.
it stopped for me after 2897 frames...
6d may have more buffer? maybe if the speed slightly varyies the eos m just can't compensate it with the small buffer?
Quote from: 1% on June 07, 2013, 03:15:54 PM
Its like 6D controller.. so sandisk 45MB/s is the fastest..
and it stopped for me with sandisk 45MB/s.
Possibly. 255M vs ~100M in photo mode on a good day.
I don't see much meaning in crop mode video. The crop result of a 22mm lens is definitely far different from a full 50mm f/1.4 lens effect. Especially in terms of field depth.
@JohnBarlow:
i'm uploading some raw files for you at the moment. 3gigs... it may take some time. as soon as it's ready there are 11 raw files. resolutions 1280x720, 1024x768 and 1088x816.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ofaqeiwwjg0xdrw/HAYYgd9cXk
there are also some h.264 shots with 18mm crop and 55mm non crop for comparison and a 1280x720 24p webm file with the processed raw video files. no real post processing on the webm... just used the default canon raw curve to get some contrast into the image, no noise reduction or sharpening.
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/k8fe71ga1kiw57o/720.webm
720p raw looks much better than i thought. and so much better than h.264 1080p, even without processing Oo
but of course i could have done h.264 better with reduced saturation, contrast and sharpening... it's auto picture style.
can anyone check if faster card really makes a difference to get continuously 1280x720 24p recording?
@mixer2
Thanks for your time, it has convinced me to get an EOSM with MLRAW,
who needs a Black Magic pocket cam? :)
anyone has experience with the SanDisk SDSDQX-064G-U46A... it's a microSD, but benchmarks look nice and price is very moderate.
i really want to know if we can get more speed (maybe really 36mb/s continuously) with a faster sd-card than sandisk extreme 45mb/s.
or maybe anyone has the 45mb/s sandisk extreme and the 95mb/s and can compare them directly in the eos m.
Anybody know anything about this clip other than what's mentioned? Like exact ML settings and workflow?
http://youtu.be/amK6c1I63Ow
it was posted by qsara on page 19 of this thread. but the qsara account seems to be deleted.
as the video says it's 1664x464 30fps non crop mode. you can't get that resolution anymore, but 1664x456, if you don't need continuous recording at 24 fps, or 1664x428 (1600x438, if you prefer that aspect ratio) for continuous recording. as the video is recorded at 30fps i think the 21secs was the maximum that could be recorded on that resolution and framerate.
as qsara said on page 19 it's recorded at 100iso. there are not much more camera parameters... i guess medium focal length and aperature wide open. there is no way see what shutter speed is used without motion in the video, but with 30fps normally 1/50 or 1/64 is used.
in post it got unsqeezed and some color correction (i guess whitebalance, added saturation, added contrast and it looks like a warmify filter or something like that was added). since there was no dot remover at that time and it's hard to spot any dots, i think the dots got removed with a dead pixel filter in the raw editor.
everything just guesses, don't really know what qsara did. but if you tell us what exactly from the video you try to achieve maybe anyone finds a solution.
I made a video from shooting RAW at 1280 x 720, 24 fps, in crop mode. Using a Sandisk Extreme sd card, I was getting about 35 MBps and could shoot, according to the camera, over 2400 frames before stopping.
My workflow:
Dot-removed the RAW clips.
Obtained the .dng frames from the dot-removed RAW files.
Used Lightroom 5 to convert the .dng files to uncompressed .tiff files using default settings.
Used Vegas Pro 11 to edit the string of .tiff files to create the 720p video at 24p, using AVC compression and light sharpening using unsharp mask.
Quote from: feureau on August 13, 2013, 05:11:09 PM
Is this the same movie crop mode in ML? I still get moire with this on. Have you tried shooting a test chart?
I can get it, but it is very very little, comparing to non-crop mode.
Quotetechnically 100% crop doesn't mean no aliasing. i read that multiple times, but it's still a digital measurement, which means, if you're signal (the light that comes from the lense) has more detail than your sensor resolution you'll get aliasing effects.
technically 100% crop don't use lineskipping. aliasing and moire comes from the gaps of lineskipped pixels, and gaps becomes minimal in 100% crop mode.
@markr041:
looks nice. it would be interessting if you could get more frames.. as i wrote it stopped for me after 2897 frames...
@Rush:
"aliasing and moire comes from the gaps of lineskipped pixels"
afaik, that's not true... any references?
it's all about frequencies... if you've too high frequencies (not the frequency of the light, but the singal frequency) for your sensor, then you'll get aliasing. check the "Nyquist theorem". http://redwood.berkeley.edu/bruno/npb261/aliasing.pdf
it's a gernal problem of sampling analog singals.
of course line skipping makes it even worse, because it heavily reduces the sampling frequency.
the only reason why you don't see much aliasing at 100% is that the lenses aren't that sharp and act like a low-pass filter.
=> sharper lense = more aliasing
Quote from: mixer2 on August 14, 2013, 10:45:58 AM
of course line skipping makes it even worse, because it heavily reduces the sampling frequency.
the only reason why you don't see much aliasing at 100% is that the lenses aren't that sharp and act like a low-pass filter.
=> sharper lense = more aliasing
yes, I agree. But for me - without lineskipping aliasing is acceptable and hardly noticable (even with the sharpest lens I have), comparing to lineskipped image where aliasing become obvious.
@1%:
since dual iso does also work on 6d and 5d ii, is there any chance that it may also come to eos m? or does it just has a single amplifier?
@JohnBarlow:
the large upload of the test raw files from yesterday is now finished.
@mixer2
Got them, Thank you very much.
Can you confirm my current understanding?
Crop mode is about 3x, giving a recording sensor width of 22.5/3 = 7.5mm
720p would give about 2/3 of that resulting in a recording sensor width of 5mm
Is my calculation correct? Thanks
EOS m has
5184x3456 pixels on 22,2mmx14,7mm
with 1280x720 crop mode you use 5184/1280 ~ 24,69% of the horizontal and 720/3456 ~ 20,83% of vertical pixels.
14,7mm*0,2083 ~ 3,06mm
22,2mm*0,2469 ~ 5,48mm
sqrt((3,06mm)²+(5,48mm)²) ~ 6,27mm
if my calculations are correct you'll use a diagonal of ~ 6,27mm with 720p
43.2mm/6,27mm ~ 6,89 <- this should be the effective crop factor
compared to bmpcc which has a super 16mm diagonal of 14,54mm and 2.97 crop factor, it's a really tiny sensor. less than 1/4 of effective sensor size.
Thank you for a very precise answer
Here is my understanding of the problem. Feel free to correct me.
The only real limitation we have is how to fit a 16:9 aspect ratio in a 3:2 sensor. In other words, 5184 pixels wide (or rather, a bayer-patterned mosaic of 5184 pixels wide) by 2916 pixels, cropping 540 pixels top+bottom combined.
Our cropped 5184x2916 (16:9) video is clearly above 1080p (and the write speed). We only need to resize those into either 720p (1280x720) or 1080p (1920x1080). If the digic5 processor is having a hard time doing this, then how about, in the case of 720p (where we need to cut to 24.69%), take 8x8 pixels (bayer-pattern) and reduce that to a 2x2 by averaging the bit-depths of the corresponding colors to the smaller matrix? You would get an exact 1280x720 pixel (720p) by cropping to 5120x2880, which would be fairly close to the full 5184x3456. This operation, under x86 cpus, would be both easy to code and quick to execute.
For 1080p it would be a bit trickier, since 1920/5184 = 37.03% doesn't rounds nicely. I'll let the knowledgeable people first see if my idea makes sense then I'll see if 1080p raw is even feasible (might not even be with write speed bottleneck).
@manly:
sorry, no... i think everyone wishes that would be the "only real limitation".
it's not possible to record 5120x2880 because of the speed of the sd-controller. there are 2 raw streams to choose from. one is downscaled via row and lineskipping (which leads to really bad quality) and the other is a 100% sensor crop (1792x1028 cropped from the center).
but, since 1792x1028 are still to much pixels to record (continuously... you can record a few frames till it stops), it's even more cropped to ~5% of the sensor size.
=> you can get thise 5% of the pixels from all over the sensor with a lot of aliasing, or from the center, which leads to a high crop factor.
main limitations are sd-controller speed and the bad quality of internal downscaling.
@mixer2:
I'm still puzzled as to why the non-crop mode is squished. That doesn't happen on my 60D or T2i, although I did see there was a squished option when recording at 720p resolution in movie mode on the 60D.
i think the eos m handles the downscaling different from other canon cameras... but really don't know.
have you watched the video i posted some days ago: http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/p1qo960nrhmcd7g/crop_vs_non_crop.webm
the first 10 secounds show crop mode vs non crop mode... and what i see is that non crop mode has really bad quality compared to crop mode.
maybe 1% can tell you why the downscaled videos on other cameras don't look that bad.
It will be interesting to see a comparison with the BMPCC Prores in the near future . I wander if anyone thinking the same as I do.
Quote from: Eran on August 15, 2013, 02:26:20 PM
It will be interesting to see a comparison with the BMPCC Prores in the near future . I wander if anyone thinking the same as I do.
Speaking of prores. I wonder how they managed to put that in the BMPCC when the canons don't have enough computing power to convert raw to prores... Dedicated prores chip?
Hi guys, any news about the magic zoom function improvement? I heard a new patch was just released.
MZ is at least in sync in most modes, but not much different.
Its ugly at idle because its always 720P sized. Other cameras ugly mode is only 60FPS and all modes are like crop mode minus the crop.
Quote from: 1% on August 15, 2013, 03:22:30 PM
MZ is at least in sync in most modes, but not much different.
Its ugly at idle because its always 720P sized. Other cameras ugly mode is only 60FPS and all modes are like crop mode minus the crop.
Err, not quite understand the statement. Just want to know if it's possible to use the magic zoom with higher resolution according to the magnification factor?
@Mixer2:
Yeah I saw the video, and even based on further testing I did I've seen what you mean. Plus upscaling that much is still not ideal. But what I mean is on the other cameras the raw video in regular (non crop) mode isn't vertically squished so when you upscale you upscale both x and y.
Quote from: feureau on August 15, 2013, 02:56:20 PM
Speaking of prores. I wonder how they managed to put that in the BMPCC when the canons don't have enough computing power to convert raw to prores... Dedicated prores chip?
Either implemented in hardware, or more likely using some GPU Compute resources to do some of the work (the latest Tegra based design comes to mind) or a dedicated DSP plus a multi-core ARM chip probably makes it doable without being too expensive either from a cost or power design. It'd be interesting to know what they've done actually. Although, I don't actually know that ProRes is really a heavily compressed for mat. Probably doesn't take much more computing resources over h.264, just a higher write bandwidth is required. Maybe more CPU if there's no hardware dedicated to it.
Quote from: mixer2 on August 15, 2013, 10:40:31 AM
@manly:
sorry, no... i think everyone wishes that would be the "only real limitation".
it's not possible to record 5120x2880 because of the speed of the sd-controller. there are 2 raw streams to choose from. one is downscaled via row and lineskipping (which leads to really bad quality) and the other is a 100% sensor crop (1792x1028 cropped from the center).
I was talking specifically about how to code an algorithm that would not crop anything (beyond black bars to fit a 16:9 ratio (720p or 1080p) in a 3:2 ratio). The algorithm I described is not CPU intensive, easy to compute, and recreates your new RAW layer from the uncropped RAW data. I *do* assume the full resolution is available and you seem to suggest it's not. Are you saying the lineskip raw stream is directly provided by the canon code and 100% outside of our control? If that lineskip stream is ML code, I described a way to fix both issues...
Hello everyone. Was very excited to set up my new EOS-M to shoot RAW today. Having used the 50D was a blessing because I already had an idea of what to do. Still, I spent half an hour trying to figure out how to start the recording (MENU button)
Is there any set of settings that removes the red dots? I don't believe resolution is as important as the color depth you can get from RAW. I'm also a little confused about how the camera's movie menu settings interact with the ML settings under photo, if at all. Anyway, great work!
Please let me know if you'd like me to shoot anything, or do anything that would be helpful to you. I always try to shoot faces because I believe they show the real limitations of AVCHD (skin color).
What was your workflow? What resolution? what frame rate? crop mode?
You can remove the red dots quickly and easily with a little software program:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/m0bxzd23p4zow8o/PinkDotRemover_2013_08_08.zip
It works directly on the RAW files and you can do all of them at once (in batch).
See my video from RAW: https://vimeo.com/72310879
No dots.
Anybody else see blue dots in some of their footage? mainly shadows it looks like?
Quote from: maxotics on August 16, 2013, 12:58:41 AM
Hello everyone. Was very excited to set up my new EOS-M to shoot RAW today. Having used the 50D was a blessing because I already had an idea of what to do. Still, I spent half an hour trying to figure out how to start the recording (MENU button)
Is there any set of settings that removes the red dots? I don't believe resolution is as important as the color depth you can get from RAW. I'm also a little confused about how the camera's movie menu settings interact with the ML settings under photo, if at all. Anyway, great work!
Please let me know if you'd like me to shoot anything, or do anything that would be helpful to you. I always try to shoot faces because I believe they show the real limitations of AVCHD (skin color).
Cute video. Really like the subjects innocence and willingness to be part of the experiment. Please say so to her from me, with my regards.
@Canon eos m. It pays to be nice to your wife! She said as long as I don't put it on FB. I talk my kids into being subjects too, but they can run away faster ;)
With Mark's help, I was able to do a version without pink dots
Hey everyone,
First off, thanks to the ML guys for putting time into this lil camera. I''m loving it. I'm glad to see it on 2.0.2.
Now, to the point: I've been into bracketing lately and the adv. bracketing feature has a couple problems with the current version. In order to get the shutter to release, I have to quickly restart the camera and hope the ML firmware is still loaded. Ever since firmware 1 w/ ML alpha, the camera autofocuses between shots. It would be great if the camera would not focus after the initial focus and would instead shoot in continuous mode.
1% owns :)
:)
@gary2013:
normally you'll find new versions there:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/
@maxotics:
with crop mode there won't be those aliasing effects at the edge of the glasses.
@gravitatemediagroup:
can you upload a pic to show us the dots?
@manly:
sorry, i don't know the exact details. maybe one of the ml developers may answer it more detailed.
as far as i know there is no way to get the full sensor resolution. and even if it would be possible the cpu is to slow to do any processing in camera. and it's not possible to do the processing in post, because the sd-controller is to slow to save all the data.
@handbanana:
i don't know any details here, too. it's just the way it seems to be on eos m. maybe canon saves some resources in the small body. again, maybe one of the ml developers may give a more exact answer. they know better what's going on in the cameras.
i can just tell you what my experiences using it are. and they are that non crop mode has horrible quality.
Quote from: markr041 on August 16, 2013, 02:24:37 AM
What was your workflow? What resolution? what frame rate? crop mode?
You can remove the red dots quickly and easily with a little software program:
http://dl.dropbox.com/s/m0bxzd23p4zow8o/PinkDotRemover_2013_08_08.zip
It works directly on the RAW files and you can do all of them at once (in batch).
See my video from RAW: https://vimeo.com/72310879
No dots.
How do you use the PinkDotRemover, do you apply it with the camera, or is this for computer use?
Quote from: CinB13 on August 16, 2013, 06:25:00 PM
How do you use the PinkDotRemover, do you apply it with the camera, or is this for computer use?
My steps with EOS-M so far
1. Follow steps in other posts to get it ML to work with Firmware 2.02 (if that's what you have)
2. Boot camera, load ML, load modules (set to autoload), set to RAW, resolution, etc., in ML.
3. Press MENU, take some RAW video. I wouldn't shoot a lot your first try.
4. Copy RAW file over to computer
5. Load PinkDotRemover (THANK YOU AUTHOR OF THAT). You'll need Java installed.
6. Make a copy of your RAW file if important (PinkDotRemover) modifies original.
7. Drag copy or original to PinkDotRemove, pick camera, and run. NOTE: You won't see a status message, but it should finish in a minute or two. It will say so.
8. Open RAWanizer, select RAW file
9. Pick Cineform and have it create video output
That's my easy workflow at moment. I use that for 50D too (except for PinkDotRemover, which isn't necessary for that camera).
Quote from: maxotics on August 16, 2013, 08:17:37 PM
My steps with EOS-M so far
1. Follow steps in other posts to get it ML to work with Firmware 2.02 (if that's what you have)
2. Boot camera, load ML, load modules (set to autoload), set to RAW, resolution, etc., in ML.
3. Press MENU, take some RAW video. I wouldn't shoot a lot your first try.
4. Copy RAW file over to computer
5. Load PinkDotRemover (THANK YOU AUTHOR OF THAT). You'll need Java installed.
6. Make a copy of your RAW file if important (PinkDotRemover) modifies original.
7. Drag copy or original to PinkDotRemove, pick camera, and run. NOTE: You won't see a status message, but it should finish in a minute or two. It will say so.
8. Open RAWanizer, select RAW file
9. Pick Cineform and have it create video output
That's my easy workflow at moment. I use that for 50D too (except for PinkDotRemover, which isn't necessary for that camera).
Thanks a lot. I shall try that out next time.
Quote from: maxotics on August 16, 2013, 08:17:37 PM
My steps with EOS-M so far
1. Follow steps in other posts to get it ML to work with Firmware 2.02 (if that's what you have)
2. Boot camera, load ML, load modules (set to autoload), set to RAW, resolution, etc., in ML.
3. Press MENU, take some RAW video. I wouldn't shoot a lot your first try.
4. Copy RAW file over to computer
5. Load PinkDotRemover (THANK YOU AUTHOR OF THAT). You'll need Java installed.
6. Make a copy of your RAW file if important (PinkDotRemover) modifies original.
7. Drag copy or original to PinkDotRemove, pick camera, and run. NOTE: You won't see a status message, but it should finish in a minute or two. It will say so.
8. Open RAWanizer, select RAW file
9. Pick Cineform and have it create video output
That's my easy workflow at moment. I use that for 50D too (except for PinkDotRemover, which isn't necessary for that camera).
PinkDotRemover does have a moving green status bar as it proceeds, with reports of number of RAW files processed as well.
This workflow using an intermediate
lossy codec (Cineform) may not provide the best results, compared with taking the .pngs from the RAW and converting them losslessly to tiffs and working with them in an NLE. In any case, I could not find a way to change the characteristics of the Cineform file (bitrate) in RAWanizer. The Cineform bitrate I got was around 60Mbps, a bitrate I can get using ML for the AVC video produced by the camera (EOS M) without RAW, and AVC uses more sophisticated compression.
@Markr041 Does the bitrate really matter here? My understanding is that Cineform is a compressed RAW type CODEC, so keeps a lot of sensor information which can be worked on in an NLE. It seems that way to me at any rate. I have Vitaliy hacks on my GF1, and the files are larger, but I don't see RAW type dynamic range coming through. I think a high bitrate can/does improve sharpness by doing less transforms. I converted some of my RAW files to NDxHD, which is know is huge, but I see little difference because I think the amount of usable information from the 50D and EOS-M RAW is not really up to large bit rate needs. I certainly agree with you that working with the RAW frames (TIFF or DNG) would give the best quality. I hope to do that soon. I'm just waiting until I master the Cineform stuff, which I"m still working on. Maybe someone here can chime in, unless you're sure a higher-bit rate MP4 is better than Cineform.
My workflow is RAW -> Cineform -> Vegas Studio. What do you think the best workflow is? Thanks!
Well, for example, the popular intermediate codec ProRes, and used in the BlackMagic cameras for example, has a bitrate in the 100's (224Mbps). So, 60Mbps seems low, and thus something must be sacrificed. The Cineform avi still has 4:2:2 sampling and presumably keeps the RAW dynamic range, so it has advantages over the AVC from the camera, but subjecting the video to double compression (Cineform and then the NLE), given the Cineform bitrate, may not be ideal. I certainly don't know. And the RAW to TIFF conversions are a big hassle.
Per a discussion higher up in the thread, the Black Magic will use the whole sensor, instead of sampling or a crop used by the EOS-M. How well it will write to SD cards remains to be seen. I can't see the old Canon cameras as competing with the new BlackMagic pocket camera. For me, I'd be thrilled to get 720p with high dynamic range, when I want to get the mood of film. The EOS-M body is about $250 and the BMPCC will be $1,000. Maybe the ML RAW in EOS-M (and other Canon cameras) will be enough for most. I"m sure the BMPCC won't approach the ML Canons in the amount of stuff they can do, from photography, to time-laps, to histograms, etc., etc.
What I"ve noticed, markr041, is that many people who shoot video with cameras don't recognize that RAW, even at low resolutions, can have a more pleasing look than the highest bit-rate AVCHD at 1080p. My opinion, so far. We'll see. Right now, my EOS-M isn't loading ML so I'm RAW-less at the moment. :( Working on it...
Fixing corrupt, ML screen doesn't stay on, camera freezes, problem.
Re-formatted my card and put all the ML stuff on it and the camera still wouldn't show the ML menu for more than a second and then would freeze. After CLEARING SETTINGS under the menu, ML works fine again.
@maxotics: Glad to hear your EOS M is back up, and that the fix was simple. I agree, there is more to videos than resolution, and color and dynamic range should be better from RAW, and that is important.
Quote from: maxotics on August 16, 2013, 08:17:37 PM
My steps with EOS-M so far
1. Follow steps in other posts to get it ML to work with Firmware 2.02 (if that's what you have)
2. Boot camera, load ML, load modules (set to autoload), set to RAW, resolution, etc., in ML.
3. Press MENU, take some RAW video. I wouldn't shoot a lot your first try.
4. Copy RAW file over to computer
5. Load PinkDotRemover (THANK YOU AUTHOR OF THAT). You'll need Java installed.
6. Make a copy of your RAW file if important (PinkDotRemover) modifies original.
7. Drag copy or original to PinkDotRemove, pick camera, and run. NOTE: You won't see a status message, but it should finish in a minute or two. It will say so.
8. Open RAWanizer, select RAW file
9. Pick Cineform and have it create video output
That's my easy workflow at moment. I use that for 50D too (except for PinkDotRemover, which isn't necessary for that camera).
Sorry but converting the RAW file direct to Cineform is missing the most critical point of color correcting directly from the RAW source.... This is not the correct way.
Quote from: thegunshow101 on August 17, 2013, 08:39:46 AM
Sorry but converting the RAW file direct to Cineform is missing the most critical point of color correcting directly from the RAW source.... This is not the correct way.
Establishing the correct workflow is useful for experienced videographers and beginners like me.
I'm glad everyone is taking a stab at documenting what they do. It's a real help, and I'm sure the workflow will be refined over time.
Thanks, and keep it up, please!
Quoteauthor=thegunshow101 link=topic=3648.msg67555#msg67555 date=1376721586]
Sorry but converting the RAW file direct to Cineform is missing the most critical point of color correcting directly from the RAW source.... This is not the correct way.
"Correct" must always be used in the context of your goal. If one's goal is to maximize the quality of their RAW footage, then yes, straight to Cineform is probably not the correct way. However, I have been very clear in my posts why I am going to Cineform first. I want to walk, before I run, with video RAW. I appreciate your comments. But I it's more helpful if you give evidence, or experience, as to why one has to color correct using TIFFs, let's say, then go to Cineform. Can you show me two sets of footage, one done your way, and the other straight to Cineform, so others can properly evaluate the difference? I"m certainly interested. My experience is that even straight to Cineform provides higher dynamic range than the straight AVCHD/MP4 that comes out of the camera. For me it's been a good and fun place to start. As for the correct way. I'm a believer in "the perfect is the enemy of the good."
Just installed ML on my EOS M with new firmware thanks to mark's post http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3528189 (http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3528189)
Wanted to say a big thank you to all those working on this. Am so happy just to have focus peaking - that's about the only thing I understand so far!
For reference I have the shutter bug (have to turn off and on quickly to be able to take photos).
Is there any place with instructions in one place for this version? I have picked up things here and there on posts like two finger click to get into the menu. Or am I best just to go through the main ML docs?
the blue dots issue I was talking about, I went ahead and lifted the shadow a bit to see them better. this was iso 800 or 600 I believe, nothing higher, SD was an extreme pro, all ML settings kept stock.
https://www.wetransfer.com/downloads/09cac33146d10224812ea46e740e9e5a20130817155809/2a15b34d5f8d6536ca05d0ba4abbaeab20130817155809/7c8c80
@gravitatemediagroup:
looks like they should get removed by pinkdotremover. have you used pdr and they're still there?
Quote from: nicklear9 on August 17, 2013, 05:04:35 PM
Is there any place with instructions in one place for this version? I have picked up things here and there on posts like two finger click to get into the menu. Or am I best just to go through the main ML docs?
There is no instruction for these kind of versions - only for the official once. But the main docs will help you to understand many features.
Quote from: mixer2 on August 17, 2013, 06:44:12 PM
@gravitatemediagroup:
looks like they should get removed by pinkdotremover. have you used pdr and they're still there?
Yes, I used PDR with it's default settings, unless it's possible to do a 2nd pass?
can you send me a frame as dng? then i'll check why they don't get removed.
Once the Magic Lantern hack and install become easier and more stable these EOS-M cameras may get a cult following like the GH2
Great work everyone who created the software I used to make these videos! Thanks!
Anyone, please, share complete file structure archive for EOS M ML ready to copy to sd card. My version doesn't work on my 2.0.2 camera.
Quote from: 350D on August 18, 2013, 03:07:50 AM
Anyone, please, share complete file structure archive for EOS M ML ready to copy to sd card. My version doesn't work on my 2.0.2 camera.
keep trying, it's not that hard the instruction have been laid out 100 times already, follow them EXACTLY how it says and no issues.
Quote from: 350D on August 18, 2013, 03:07:50 AM
Anyone, please, share complete file structure archive for EOS M ML ready to copy to sd card. My version doesn't work on my 2.0.2 camera.
Email me at max at maxotics.com and I'll send you a zip. I placed the files to copy to the card before the EOScard write and the files to write after. I think it works.
Quote from: maxotics on August 18, 2013, 03:48:35 AMEmail me at max at maxotics.com and I'll send you a zip.
Thank you!
Need help from moderators.
It seems there isn't one easy place to get files for the EOS-M ML. I could put them up on my maxotics.com site for easy download. Don't know if that's okay, helpful? Who would I talk to? Don't know if it's okay that I've emailed the folder setup I created for the ML setup. Please advise. Thanks!
Quote from: 350D on August 18, 2013, 03:07:50 AM
Anyone, please, share complete file structure archive for EOS M ML ready to copy to sd card. My version doesn't work on my 2.0.2 camera.
Instructions cut and paste from Post #904:
There are 3 files to download from this thread (plus the EOSCard app).
[EOSM202] (need to rename to have .zip extension): https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip
UpDaterM.fir: http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK
magiclantern-EOSM.106.Alpha1.zip: http://bit.ly/UP7Avg
So, here are the steps that I took, a slight modification along with correct links on Canon eos m instructions.
1. First soft format your SD card on your computer.
2. Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
3. Next download files from the bitbucket.org link (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip) provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
4. Next copy the updaterM202.fir from (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK) on your SD card.
5. Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
6. With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
7. Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
8. Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg) version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.
9. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link. (step 3)
Hi to all !
One more THANKS for you guys creating such usefull tools !
You just impress me ! 8)
With Vitaly (personalview) and Rominator and other guys from netkas, you really help people to make nice videos, all over the world, as pro or as hobby ! Bunch of digital revoltionnaries ;) you are !!!
You also push us to spend some extra time with computers...but that is for a good reason so... ;)
First are you aware if a speed booster will be made for EOS M ?
http://www.canonwatch.com/is-metabones-working-on-a-speedbooster-for-eos-m/
Or lens turbo from China ?
Then the serious Magic Lantern Part :
I have those resolution available:
1344x406 Non crop
1344x672 Crop
It seems that people are usually talking of other sizes...Am I wrong
The Squeeze ?
I don't understand why the pics are squeezed...as we are working with square pixels...
The Framerate ?
People are talking about 24p RAW vids...I have 30fps...Can I have 24 or more usefull for me 25 ?
Quality seems bad when I shoot RAW do I missed something ?
Duration of display of ML menu can I set it longer somehow ? It desappears very fast...when you are on your first days of ML it is a bit short...
Audio off !!!!! Will you be working on a version with audio on and audio output like with the 5DMkII...Even if it is with Canon flat video settings...
Intervallometer doesn"t work or can cause failing of the camera...black screen and Led flashing red or green, shutter clicks sometimes...
Sometimes ML menu are little Icons...sometimes it is pages...when I have Icones I don't have the 2 last menus (module loading and the previous one...)
The boot :
I have to make firmware update each time I turn on the cam to have ML...
Can it load directly ?
I'm ok with that because it is a good way to make ML or non-ML EOS-M with the same card...
I've been using 3 different cards :
- 1 SANDISK EXTREME HD video Class 10 30MB/S SDHC I
This one seems the best of the 3. I can have RAW recording working.
- 1 SANDISK EXTREME PRO SDHC I
45MB/S with a little 1 but it's not the same icon than the other's class 10...with the 10 circled...it is more like a U around the 1
With this one RAW recording stops after 2 or 3 sec....If it is a class 1 I understand the problem...
- TRANSCEND SDHC Class 10
RAW recording stops also like with the 45MB/S
I'm on a 2.0.2 firmware.
THX for help !
.V
Here's a video that takes you through setting up the camera to shoot RAW, after the SD card has been prepared with the EOS-M specific Magic Lantern software. I also show my workflow from RAW to Sony Vegas Studio.
SEE BELOW, you can now get EOS-M to boot with ML (use EOSM1202.fir)
There are a lot of post about how to install ML on EOS M but what i want is that Alpha 1 bug like 18-55mm shutter don't work after installing ML remove.
It really annoying coz when i press the shutter with 18-55mm lens attach camera shutter just don't work like before.
1% please release a new version of ML.
It still doesn't work with 2.02? I have to make a new bin but first want to fix installer boot process to handle 6D/M
Quote from: 1% on August 18, 2013, 09:41:00 PM
It still doesn't work with 2.02? I have to make a new bin but first want to fix installer boot process to handle 6D/M
Please also consider improve the magic zoom function as early as possible. The focus peaking is quick to use but not as reliable as magic room when comes to accuracy. If we don't have a good magic room function, it could be meaningless to use ML for normal photo taking.
I'm not asking any ETA of the build. I'm very much greatful for your work 1% i really am. But i'm just want to shoot picture with my 18-55mm lens.
Anyway i'm not complaining but i just don't see anyone mention the problem so, i just thought i give it a go.
I'm gonna get 6D soon if i have enough money only because of amazing DEV like 1% is on the scene.
Thank u so much
Can someone up a pic of the card speed test with a 95MBs card?
I can't check if the boot flag is set because I already have it:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj)
Try it in photo mode, it does boot at least and shows the text.
Quote from: 1% on August 18, 2013, 10:53:37 PM
I can't check if the boot flag is set because I already have it:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj)
Try it in photo mode, it does boot at least and shows the text.
Hallelujah! 1% you the man!
It boots for me and the bootflag keeps. I can now turn off and on without losing ML and don't have to update the firmware every time like before.
The shutter release bug is also gone. I can now take pictures (and intervalometer and advanced bracketing) without having to turn it off and on again quickly though I had to turn it off and on once at least (the first time) for this to happen.
BTW, I do have a 18-55mm lens with a new EOS-M 2.02 (from factory).
Quote from: 1% on August 18, 2013, 10:53:37 PM
I can't check if the boot flag is set because I already have it:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj)
Try it in photo mode, it does boot at least and shows the text.
Thank You 1%
@1%: sorry that i ask again, but i don't know if my question few days ago got read.
do you already know if dual iso may be possible on eos m? that it's working on 600d makes some hope, but since it doesn't work in lv...
Its possible (and 600D has it in LV) but I get a hang when trying to log cmos, ADTG is fine... I tried today. Nanomad might know how to get it going, I think some address in memory has to be changed.
oh... nice.
thx!
I seem to have run into a problem.
My EOSM came with 2.0.2 factory installed. I downloaded the package from the link in the first post of this thread and then replaced the .FIR file with the one posted by 1% up above (at http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj) so it would work with 2.0.2, then followed standard installation procedures. All seemed to go well and the welcome screen came off. I restarted the camera and the welcome screen was still there so I restarted it again. It didn't start, and now whenever the power button is pressed, the card read light just rapidly blinks green and the camera does not turn on.
Is there something wrong with ML or did I do something stupid? And what (if anything) can I do to fix it? ???
Check:
Card is bootable
ML autoexec.bin + support files(ml folder from camera/nighlty) are there
Also boot the camera without a card after removing/installing battery.
Which button activates ML mode?
Quote from: epyonxero on August 19, 2013, 03:59:02 AM
Which button activates ML mode?
Two finger tap touchscreen to get int ML menu
Direction keys to move thru menu
Singer finger tap to go into sub menu of feature
Quote from: gamerblot on August 18, 2013, 11:13:45 PM
It boots for me and the bootflag keeps. I can now turn off and on without losing ML and don't have to update the firmware every time like before.
BTW, I do have a 18-55mm lens with a new EOS-M 2.02 (from factory).
+1
works now for me also, it was starting to be a pain.
***UPDATE***
it worked for 1 on and off cycle, 2nd attempt the bootflag was gone, now it won't work for even 1 cycle.
Quote from: 1% on August 19, 2013, 12:48:34 AM
Its possible (and 600D has it in LV) but I get a hang when trying to log cmos, ADTG is fine... I tried today. Nanomad might know how to get it going, I think some address in memory has to be changed.
this is awesome.
when it's all said and done and ML on the M is running flawless, 3 M's for the price of 1 pocket cam may have people thinking.
Three cycles in, i'm still good, Bootflag stayed on.
Quote from: gravitatemediagroup on August 19, 2013, 04:15:59 AM
this is awesome.
when it's all said and done and ML on the M is running flawless, 3 M's for the price of 1 pocket cam may have people thinking.
I've must of turned it off and on about 20-30 times now. Left, came back after a few hours later and turned it on again. No problem, Bootflag stays for me. It's like ML on the other Canon cameras I have.
I've even done a few battery pulls and Bootflag is there when I put the battery back in and turn it on again.
I am seeing some freezing and other stability bugs but hey, this is still ALPHA.
Quote from: gamerblot on August 19, 2013, 06:51:06 AM
I am seeing some freezing and other stability bugs but hey, this is still ALPHA.
alpha typically means stable I thought.
it's why Apple release iOS _ Beta _ to developers to work out bugs.
but yeah, it isn't working right for me, I have the "fix" on the root of the SD. Not quite sure what I'm doing any different, becuase I get ML to load, I'm applying the same "fix" yet it's no good. Most odd part is I did manage to get the flag to stay ONE time, the other 10 attempts have been fails.
Quote from: gravitatemediagroup on August 19, 2013, 08:22:48 AM
alpha typically means stable I thought.
it's why Apple release iOS _ Beta _ to developers to work out bugs.
but yeah, it isn't working right for me, I have the "fix" on the root of the SD. Not quite sure what I'm doing any different, becuase I get ML to load, I'm applying the same "fix" yet it's no good. Most odd part is I did manage to get the flag to stay ONE time, the other 10 attempts have been fails.
Did you get rid of the UpDaterM.fir and replace it with EOSM1202.FIR on your SD. You can't have both on your SD card. That is the only thing I did and the only thing I can think of.
ALPHA means experimental, prototype and untested with lots of bugs and not ready for public consumption
Good news 1%!
It would be great if someone could combine all the needed and latest files in one zip now for download. It would make things much easier for people like me who get confused by these long installation explanations but are willing to test. Especialy for people who do not speak english perfect.
Is that possible?
:)
:)
Quote from: 1% on August 19, 2013, 03:07:23 AM
Check:
Card is bootable
ML autoexec.bin + support files(ml folder from camera/nighlty) are there
Also boot the camera without a card after removing/installing battery.
Want to report a small bug: Intervalometer hangs the camera after the camera has taken the chosen number of pictures. To get it working one has to power off and restart.
Also, haven't seen any new modules for the EOS M out in a while. Which is the latest one. Could you please point me out to the location of the latest version?
:)
Quote from: 1% on August 18, 2013, 10:53:37 PM
I can't check if the boot flag is set because I already have it:
http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=fb5V0T8Wj)
Try it in photo mode, it does boot at least and shows the text.
My EOS-M is already bootflagged, but if this works, it would be a good idea to put it in the first post along with the rest of the update.
Quote from: feureau on August 19, 2013, 01:18:01 PM
My EOS-M is already bootflagged, but if this works, it would be a good idea to put it in the first post along with the rest of the update.
+ what Canon eos m asked - thats what I mean ... it´s getting confusing what file to use when and how. Espescial for people who do not follow and/or do not understand the whole thread every day.
If someone could compile a set (kind of Alpha 2) with all the latest and still working files in one zip-set it would be a huge help. At least for me.
:)
Quote from: 1% on August 19, 2013, 03:07:23 AM
Check:
Card is bootable
ML autoexec.bin + support files(ml folder from camera/nighlty) are there
Also boot the camera without a card after removing/installing battery.
Yeah, booting without card got it working again. I'm a might confused on how to go about things now though... Do I take the nightly build autoexec.bin and ML folder, pair it with the new 2.0.2 ML FIR file and follow standard install?
I asked above if I can help, shouldn't help, but no answer...
I posted a file EOSM20130818 which you can get on my site, go to
http://maxotics.com/photos (http://maxotics.com/photos)
Enter the key "EOSM20130818"
You will get a link to that zip file. It contains the folder of stuff I put on the SD card before the EOS Card utility, and the files I copy/replace after. I believe it has the latest stuff according to what the posts above say. It seems to work for me. It contains the .fir file to allow autoloading of ML. BUT I AM NEW TO THIS STUFF too.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 19, 2013, 03:01:16 PM
1% (and all the other great people at ML), can you have the display at the bottom of the screen where it shows aperture, shutter, ISO, etc indicate which item is active for adjusting with the wheel/arrows? I never know if it is on aperture or shutter when i spin the wheel to make changes and it seems like i always have the wrong one. When i press the right arrow it switches between them, but it would be a lot better if it somehow made an indication of which one is ready for adjustment. Maybe make the active value brighter or bigger so we know? can you also make it toggle between aperture, shutter and ISO for adjustments?
Gary
I even don't understand why ML uses a independent information display screen instead of just using canon's stock interface. It would be best if we can directly display the focus peaking of magic room box on the canon information display interface.
I've made a zip file with all you need for installing on 2.02 firmware magic lantern, with the last firmware installer that 1 % posted, For me it worked and bootflagged. I don't know if i'm supposed to do this but there is a lot of people asking. If i'm doing wrong you can delete the post!
http://www.sendspace.com/file/37061u
P.s. sorry if my english is not perfect!! :)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 19, 2013, 12:45:38 PM
go back one page (page 44) and find 1% message with the link to the new firmware file
Gary
intervalometer confirmed to be work partially on 2.0.2 firmware with ML on page 44
but it does only work for non-bulb shutter value
if bulb is set, only the first shot got the correct bulb time. it will then reset to 30" and the intervalo still keep running
may I rise a ticket in the issue system about this?
:)
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 19, 2013, 12:37:06 PM
Want to report a small bug: Intervalometer hangs the camera after the camera has taken the chosen number of pictures. To get it working one has to power off and restart.
Also, haven't seen any new modules for the EOS M out in a while. Which is the latest one. Could you please point me out to the location of the latest version?
Thank you gary2013 - my problem resolved with 1%'s latest *.fir update (at page 44 of this thread).
Quote from: Rootwang on August 19, 2013, 03:47:24 PM
I've made a zip file with all you need for installing on 2.02 firmware magic lantern, with the last firmware installer that 1 % posted, For me it worked and bootflagged. I don't know if i'm supposed to do this but there is a lot of people asking. If i'm doing wrong you can delete the post!
http://www.sendspace.com/file/37061u
P.s. sorry if my english is not perfect!! :)
Thanks Rootwang - it helped a lot and it works on my M :)
QuoteCan we have the audio meters working all the time? Currently, they only work during recording. It's important to see the meters before we record as well as during recording.
Bulb issue is present on all cams without dedicated bulb mode. I think its a meta bug. For the meters I will when I can, didn't set them to only work while recording on purpose.
Quote from: gamerblot on August 19, 2013, 10:00:33 AM
Did you get rid of the UpDaterM.fir and replace it with EOSM1202.FIR on your SD. You can't have both on your SD card.
BINGO!
Quote from: gary2013 on August 19, 2013, 11:46:01 AM
how do we get out of ML menus besides sitting here waiting for it to timeout?
I usually hit the Shutter button to get out of the ML menu.
What I find annoying is that the ML screen will timeout after maybe 5 seconds of inactivity when I am looking at something in the ML menu. Then I have to go back into the ML menu again and re-trace where I was. Is there a fix for that?
Hi all
This is my first post and i want to report that i still have shutter bug even with using latest .fir file. I guess we need new autoexec.bin to fix this
What is the shutter bug?
Hats off the team and 1%. No more flashing the firmware everytime I want to shoot raw. Here's something I shot in raw using a 60D and the EOS-M.
Quote from: vprocessing on August 18, 2013, 05:39:34 PM
Hi to all !
First are you aware if a speed booster will be made for EOS M ?
http://www.canonwatch.com/is-metabones-working-on-a-speedbooster-for-eos-m/
Or lens turbo from China ?
I was just thinking about this possibility.. I'm glad I see a link to the video. It's surely a prototype for EOS-M.. I feel like when the next round of EOS-M cameras are released and the system becomes more developed Metabones will officially announce this, for sure.
Given the fact that you need to use an adapter for EF lenses anyway this makes so much sense and turns your EOS-M back into an (almost) full camera..+ one f stop brighter..
With RAW + a speedbooster, the EOS-M could be a little powerhouse for video..
***deleted
I do a quick test, comparing video produced from Magic Lantern's maximum resolution on the EOS-M at 24 FPS, 1472 x 592 (continuous recording) with the 1728 x 684 resolution possible at 12 FPS. I think there may also be a bug (or it's on purpose for scaling?) in RAWanizer. It didn't create the TIFFs at the higher resolution.
I created the TIFFs manually using RAW2DNG, then RAWDrop to TIFF and ffmpeg to high quality MP4, I hope ;)
Anyway, as you can see, you do get better quality, and less moire, at the higher resolution, though lower frame rate.
wow, the new UI looks WAY better.
:)
how can I keep ML from showing the flickering menu on the left side of the screen while shooting?
Quote from: maxotics on August 20, 2013, 05:23:51 AM
I do a quick test, comparing video produced from Magic Lantern's maximum resolution on the EOS-M at 24 FPS, 1472 x 592 (continuous recording) with the 1728 x 684 resolution possible at 12 FPS. I think there may also be a bug (or it's on purpose for scaling?) in RAWanizer. It didn't create the TIFFs at the higher resolution.
I created the TIFFs manually using RAW2DNG, then RAWDrop to TIFF and ffmpeg to high quality MP4, I hope ;)
Anyway, as you can see, you do get better quality, and less moire, at the higher resolution, though lower frame rate.
Your posts are useful, but I do not understand why you shoot at the resolutions you chose - they are not on the horizontal dimension HD. Why not shoot at 1280 x 720? When you process your clips they are less than HD.
Why are you not shooting in crop mode, which has far less aliasing and moire, at 720P? The camera will shoot for at least a couple of minutes in 720p in that mode (24fps) and it is real HD. You clips are seconds, so "continuous" capability seems irrelevant (as it is for most video shooting).
I think the menu thing is universal, it times out when the canon dialog does.
Quote from: gravitatemediagroup on August 20, 2013, 05:46:14 AM
wow, the new UI looks WAY better.
Do you mean the EOS M UI as seen on the frontpage? http://www.magiclantern.fm/img/eosm.png (http://www.magiclantern.fm/img/eosm.png)
Is this included in the latest .fir file from 1% or where can we get it?
@maxotics:
changing resolution afaik shouldn't have any impact on moire and other aliasing effects. as markr041 wrote changing to crop mode does dramatically reduce aliasing.
@1%:
again a dualiso question, even if it's not available :)
do you know which exact algorithm is used to calculate the hdr result from the 2 interlaced iso imageparts? is there any documentation, link to a paper or something like that?
i ask, because the af dots on eos m and 650d may cause some problems in that procedure and maybe they need some special treatment. maybe a modified algorithm that is aware of the dots could be included in the pinkdotremover. if there is some info about the algorithm i would check how it may be affected by the dots.
Hit menu, that is the ML junkie mode... its a good candidate for touch support.
For dual ISO there is a whole thread on it and a PDF that describes the theory. The source is in the module's folder, it should have some notes there too. Dots might be a problem, but first need to make it work to see what kind of a problem.
@markr041
I have a 50D which shoots amazing RAW video, was curious to see just how much resolution I could get from the EOS-M, if I wanted to match on that basis (though at a lower FPS). I can imagine certain types of shots where this high resolution, at a lower FPS, might be useful. I am also curious to try 16fps with sound later. What do you think are the best settings, aspect and resolution, for both 24p and 16p? Also, I meant "continuous" as in the camera won't lose frames or plain shut-down or worse, corrupt the card.
@Mixer2
Eventually, I'll get to crop mode. For now I want to keep at 22mm. As I get older I find long focal lengths more artificial. Sorry to be annoying ;) Please help me understand this moire and aliasing issue. My understanding is that when a line, say, is resolved by a lens on the sensor it can fall between the pixels. When the EOSM samples the sensor, it will skips lines which essentially creates geometric distortions. I would think that the more resolution, the less moire because the image has more information to fill in (and not show a geometric distortion). After all, the benefit of crop mode is that there is no (minimal?) line skipping and therefore less chance for a line not to resolve between pixels. If it's true that more resolution will have no effect on moire than I may quit that higher resolution stuff because there's enough dynamic range in current resolutions.
@All
My silly tests have had one benefit which should hopefully provide better footage in the future. Because I couldn't get the right-size TIFFs from RAWanizer, I was forced into a higher quality RAW workflow which I hope to use from now on, instead of straight to cineform.
RAW --> RAW2DNG --> RAWSpot (to TIFFS) then ffmpeg:
16fps:
ffmpeg -r 16 -i 000%3d.tiff -c:v libx264 -crf 10 -pix_fmt yuv420p out.mp4
24fps:
ffmpeg -r 16 -i 000%3d.tiff -c:v libx264 -crf 10 -pix_fmt yuv420p out.mp4
I then take the mp4 and put into Vegas Studio. If you have better ffmpeg setting PLEASE let me know.
@maxotics:
if you increase the resolution setting it just crops a larger part of the sensor. if you record 1728 x 684 and throw away 256 pixels from the left and right and 46 pixels from top and bottom, you'll get exactly the same image as you would have recorded 1472 x 592. and this obviously won't affect aliasing effects of the remaining pixels.
of course, if there is less crop, you can increase focal length or put the camera closer to the subject, which may help that the texture isn't fine enough to cause aliasing.
@1%:
i read the pdf and most of the thread. the method described in the pdf sounded really temporary. therefore i thought that it doesn't match the current implementation. i'll check the sourcecode.
@mixer THANKS for the explanation. I now get what Markr40 was trying to get through my thick head :)
@All I can't get Movie Crop mode to turn on. It stays disabled no matter what buttons/touches I do. I have the 22mm pancake lens. Any ideas? thanks!
sounds like you're not in movie mode. switch to movie mode and it should work.
@mixer THANK FOR QUICK REPLY That did trick! Now should anyone search
On the EOS-M, To enable or select Movie Crop Mode in Magic Lantern you need to be in "Movie" mode (wheel around shutter button). It will not select if you're in photo mode, it will appear gray or disabled.
Quote from: maxotics on August 20, 2013, 05:04:49 PM
@markr041
I have a 50D which shoots amazing RAW video, was curious to see just how much resolution I could get from the EOS-M, if I wanted to match on that basis (though at a lower FPS). I can imagine certain types of shots where this high resolution, at a lower FPS, might be useful. I am also curious to try 16fps with sound later. What do you think are the best settings, aspect and resolution, for both 24p and 16p? Also, I meant "continuous" as in the camera won't lose frames or plain shut-down or worse, corrupt the card.
@All
My silly tests have had one benefit which should hopefully provide better footage in the future. Because I couldn't get the right-size TIFFs from RAWanizer, I was forced into a higher quality RAW workflow which I hope to use from now on, instead of straight to cineform.
RAW --> RAW2DNG --> RAWSpot (to TIFFS) then ffmpeg:
16fps:
ffmpeg -r 16 -i 000%3d.tiff -c:v libx264 -crf 10 -pix_fmt yuv420p out.mp4
24fps:
ffmpeg -r 16 -i 000%3d.tiff -c:v libx264 -crf 10 -pix_fmt yuv420p out.mp4
I then take the mp4 and put into Vegas Studio. If you have better ffmpeg setting PLEASE let me know.
1. I don't understand how the final product has "higher resolution" when the vertical resolution is less than HD standards. What is the benefit of having higher horizontal resolution and lower vertical resolution to get an odd aspect ratio? What does the final editor do with the strange aspect ratio? You can set the ML not to skip frames. ML tells you how many seconds you can shoot at the given resolution and frame rate, so you do not have to shoot until the thing breaks down. At real 720P resolution at 24fps you can shoot for over 2000 frames before it stops, which is plenty. You then can make a nice 720P video at a reasonable frame rate that people might want to watch.
2. You do NOT have to convert the TIFFS to any video like MP4 or Cineform
before using Vegas Pro. Your workflow makes no sense (if I understand it). Vegas Pro will read TIFFS natively as an image sequence. By converting TIFFS to MP4 (or Cineform) before you use Vegas you are defeating the whole purpose of RAW - to avoid multiple compression and retain all the info from the sensor. Why not RAW -> TIFFS (all digital, all info)->Vegas for grading, sharpening and making the final 24fps 720p video. That is what I do (which merely means I know this works).
@Markr41 Sorry you're frustrated with me. I do appreciate all your help! ;D The reason I may avoid certain procedures which you recommend is I'm trying to figure out one thing, and don't want to get caught up trying to figure something else out and then ending up in a very unhappy place. For example, I suspected that Sony might be able to import a string of TIFFs, but I knew ffmpeg would work, so I went with what I knew. (BTW, you can probably get ffmpg to output a single file without compression and have one file with near TIFF quality to move around). Now, not wanting to annoy you any further ;) I just went into Sony and figured it out. So I will now do what you recommend and which I FULLY AGREE is a better workflow. Thanks again!
I thought a high resolution, even at one dimension, would be squished and provide better over-all resolution. I don't know the answers here. It's very hard to find conclusive information about any of this; I think you'll agree. That spreadsheet which is a great idea is not being updated anymore. I'm going to add a page to my blog and hopefully put all this information in one place so I can save others the pain I'm going through.
I do want to settle on some optimal shooting settings for various situations. Non-crop, crop, etc.
Again, thanks for you all your help and keep it coming!
Quote from: Dave1711 on August 20, 2013, 04:15:47 PM
Do you mean the EOS M UI as seen on the frontpage? http://www.magiclantern.fm/img/eosm.png (http://www.magiclantern.fm/img/eosm.png)
Is this included in the latest .fir file from 1% or where can we get it?
I was more or less talking about the ML website, but ML itself is also nice.
Does anyone ever pay a little attention on the photo shooting things instead of the movie? I really don't understand why everybody is talking about movie and movie. But we really need to improve the photo shooting features very eagerly.
Quote from: haomuch on August 20, 2013, 10:15:12 PM
Does anyone ever pay a little attention on the photo shooting things instead of the movie? I really don't understand why everybody is talking about movie and movie. But we really need to improve the photo shooting features very eagerly.
not sure how much you keep up with "video new" or "video tech" for that matter, but being able to shoot RAW VIDEO!! as a free bonus on any camera is a must have option for any filmmaker.
what could possibly be missing as far as photo features outside of what's stock on cam and the tons of stuff ML currently adds.
also be patient, things take time and the photo stuff isn't what in demand. if you checked the website traffic of ML in the past 6 months, my guess is you would see a major spike in traffic due to the high demand of affordable of raw video.
@haomuch
RAW video is the same as taking X number of stills in quick succession (albeit at a lower than normal resolution). So if you were taking photos of someone for their profile page on LinkedIn, say, you could shoot in RAW, extract the DNGs, convert them to TIFFs, and be able to pick exactly the right expression in the split second it happened in. So it's not as if RAW video is completely non-photo related. It has photo uses.
Sorry for my bad english :(
One clip video raw.
Video Raw Eos M
Canon Eos M + 22MM/ F2
1728x694 20FPS
SanDisk Extreme Pro 32GB SDHC Clase10 UHS-I
Drobox
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ym2myfxlo4buv8t/tes%20eos%20m%20raw%20video%2020fps..avi (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ym2myfxlo4buv8t/tes%20eos%20m%20raw%20video%2020fps..avi)
can pink dot fix be done in a batch, or just 1 at a time?
and also, PDF isn't working on the footage I shot today, instead it creates a duplicate (in Dav. resolve it shows up double anyways, before PDF resolve was only showing 1)
you can add as many files as you want to the pink dot remover file list and convert them all.
PDF = pink dot fix?
have you tried to remove dots in the dngs or the raw? can you upload a dng that isn't working?
I use PinkDotRemover ;)
I believe that it erases all the rough files :( intentare recuperar algun dng, but if I won't record myself some other video of my training :) but to 24fps
using a program to recover erased files and gotten some dng.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/md90w4re47h6x2g/%24R6005D7.dng (https://www.dropbox.com/s/md90w4re47h6x2g/%24R6005D7.dng)
Does ML have a "hyperfocal" focus mode, where you simply compose the photo and the camera calculates what will be in focus (from infinity distance to closest distance in focus) using the selected aperture?
Say I select f/8 and want everything to be in focus from infinity to the closest point that f/8 will allow (hyperfocal distance). Can ML do that automatically? It would be great if it could! Thanks for all of the great work!
They can't even provide a usable magic room focus function currently. So I think you may need to wait for a very long time.
Quote from: haomuch on August 21, 2013, 10:59:15 PM
They can't even provide a usable magic room focus function currently. So I think you may need to wait for a very long time.
What is a "magic room focus function?" And how is that less difficult than an automatic hyperfocal distance focuser? Just curious.
Quote from: cameron12x on August 21, 2013, 08:57:36 PM
Does ML have a "hyperfocal" focus mode
check Focus tab. with most electronic lenses - it automatically calculates DOF and Hyperfocal distance, based on current lens settings and will report if you are in hyperfocal distance
Quote from: Rush on August 21, 2013, 11:50:28 PM
check Focus tab. with most electronic lenses - it automatically calculates DOF and Hyperfocal distance, based on current lens settings and will report if you are in hyperfocal distance
Where is the "focus" tab? I don't see it with my version of ML. Thanks!
@Markr041 AGAIN, you can say 'I told you so." I shot a fair amount of crop mode. The more I grade in Vegas, using both Cineform and MP4, the more I can get them to look alike. So I've been thinking, RAW isn't worth it. I've wasted a ton of time (at least on the EOS-M). But I thought, maybe Markr41 is right. So before I give up on it I decided to pull in those samples as TIFFs (had to use RAWdrop to get full resolution) and voila, back in business. Much better than the native MP4. I'm going to buy a 10-20mm lens on Friday and try it, in crop mode, on both the EOS-M and 50D. I'll also only do grading using TIFFs. Hopefully this will yield conclusive footage, high dynamic range and (from crop mode) limited moire. That's where I'm at!
:)
Quote from: cameron12x on August 22, 2013, 12:38:37 AM
Where is the "focus" tab? I don't see it with my version of ML. Thanks!
OH, It is
not available for EOS M yet...
(http://www.magiclantern.fm/img/screenshots/menu_focus.png)
:)
:)
@gary2013
From my test and what I can see of others, using a higher bitrate in CBR won't provide better quality. Or, if it does, for fast motion, it seems to top out at 1.4 (that's what I use, because no sense making bigger files for nothing). The bigger benefit is if you want to record for a longer time on a card, or keep file sizes low, then you can use .8 say. If you go the VBR qscale approach you're telling the camera to save more information for higher quality (or you can do less too). However, high values can stop recording if you hit bright light (no one seems to know why). Again, i can't see the change in quality. My take, is based on what I've read elsewhere, that these compression settings effect what happens after the image is produced, so may make some intra-frame quality better (motion), but have no real effect on the IQ of the individual reference frames. Others can chime in here. I'm curious too. THESE SETTINGS have nothing to do with RAW. RAW ignores them, to my knowledge since you're getting straight/full sensor data.
RAWdrop is working for you, just not the way it was intended. It expect you'd drop, say 600 DNG files onto it, it will then produce 600 TIFFs (in the same directory) which you can grade from, import into your NLE timeline. What I do, is copy a set of DNGs to a directory I want the TIFFs in, drop all the DNGs there, delete the DNGS (copies), then pull the TIFFs into my timeline as a sequence and grade/edit.
The best way to get good quality, without RAW, is to have the right light (not too much dynamic range--difficult outside) and the right lens, f-stop, shutter speed, etc. One famous cinematographer said, 'expose for the detail of your subject and let the highlights blow out' Because most cameras can only capture limited dynamic range, exposure is very, very important. I'm guilty of what you're about to do, spend too much time on compression technologies and not enough on the basics. A primary benefit of RAW is that you have more latitude to "save"/fix exposure/color problems in post. However, if your light and exposure are perfect, the video will probably look as good as you'll ever want it. Of course, that's difficult to do and outside light doesn't always cooperate. So I'm going RAW, but have to keep reminding myself, it's no cure-all.
:)
Quote from: Rush on August 22, 2013, 11:24:22 AM
OH, It is not available for EOS M yet...
(http://www.magiclantern.fm/img/screenshots/menu_focus.png)
WOW! It would be nice to have all of those FOCUS functions available for the EOS-M!
Praying for them! :)
Quote from: Drizzt321 on August 07, 2013, 12:14:04 AM
There are 3 files to download from this thread (plus the EOSCard app).
[EOSM202] (need to rename to have .zip extension): https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip)
UpDaterM.fir: http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK)
magiclantern-EOSM.106.Alpha1.zip: http://bit.ly/UP7Avg (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg)
So, here are the steps that I took, a slight modification along with correct links on Canon eos m instructions.
1. First soft format your SD card on your computer.
2. Then format the card on your EOS M. This will create the 'DCIM' and 'MISC' folders on the SD card.
3. Next download files from the bitbucket.org link (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM202%5D%20FirstVersion-NoInstaller.zip)) provided by 1% above on to your harddisk. Unzip the files and copy directly to your SD card.
4. Next copy the updaterM202.fir (link on page 33 of this thread) UpDaterM.fir (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK (http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK)) on your SD card.
5. Open the EOSCard link from the installation section of the 5DMarkIII home page.
6. With the SD card in the card reader open the EOSCard utility.
7. Once in the EOSCard interface checkmark the 'EOS_Develop' and Bootdisk and press the big 'ML' icon and then press the 'save' icon on the top left of the EOSCard interface.
8. Then copy the ML directory from the Alpha 1 (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg (http://bit.ly/UP7Avg)) version (you can find this on the EOS M home page). Unzip and copy the 'ML' folder on the SD card. Then transfer the 'Modules' files that you got from the bitbucket.
9. Make sure not to use the autoexe.bin file from Alpha 1 but autoexe.bin file you got the bitbucket.org link. (step 3)
Hi all I'm new to this forum.
I tryed 20 (I have a new Eos-m with 2.0.2 firmware) or more times to do this steps above but after the upgrade process I see a color lines for less a second and Camera turns to normal manual mode.
Can anyone tell me how to sure install ML on my camera?
Thanks for the answer and excuse me if the question has yet posted (I made a search but I didn't find nothing).
Tomas
@maxotics: I agree with you completely that shooting technique trumps RAW versus compressed out of camera. One more issue: RAWdrop produces Tiff files that are half the size of those produced by Lightroom when I tell Lightroom not to compress when going from .dng's to Tiff's. So it looks like the Tiff files produced by RAWdrop are compressed. If this is lossy compression, then it seems to me again the purpose of RAW is compromised. Do you know what RAWdrop is doing in terms of the conversion?
Quote from: atomas72 on August 22, 2013, 03:37:31 PM
Hi all I'm new to this forum.
I tryed 20 (I have a new Eos-m with 2.0.2 firmware) or more times to do this steps above but after the upgrade process I see a color lines for less a second and Camera turns to normal manual mode.
Can anyone tell me how to sure install ML on my camera?
Thanks for the answer and excuse me if the question has yet posted (I made a search but I didn't find nothing).
Tomas
@ atomas72: Best is to use the link #1110 on side 45 - Rootwang compiled all you need and it worked for me.
:)
Quote from: markr041 on August 22, 2013, 03:45:12 PM
RAWdrop produces Tiff files that are half the size of those produced by Lightroom when I tell Lightroom not to compress when going from .dng's to Tiff's. So it looks like the Tiff files produced by RAWdrop are compressed. If this is lossy compression, then it seems to me again the purpose of RAW is compromised. Do you know what RAWdrop is doing in terms of the conversion?
I'm using the GUI version, which looks like this. I started using it because I had that problem in RAWanizer (half-size TIFFs). My guess is there is a way to tell RAWanizer to make a full-size TIFF through DCraw "Use Cusotm DNG to TIFF". One of us needs to go figure those settings out ;)
Okay, these custom settings worked in RAWanizer to give full-size TIFFS: -6 -W -g 1 1
REFERENCE: http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/dcraw.1.html (http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/dcraw.1.html)
(http://maxotics.com/photos/RAWDropGUIScreenshot.png)
:)
Quote from: maxotics on August 22, 2013, 05:16:58 PM
I'm using the GUI version, which looks like this. I started using it because I had that problem in RAWanizer (half-size TIFFs). My guess is there is a way to tell RAWanizer to make a full-size TIFF through DCraw "Use Cusotm DNG to TIFF". One of us needs to go figure those settings out ;)
(http://maxotics.com/photos/RAWDropGUIScreenshot.png)
That's what mine looks like too (not surprisingly), and the 'HQ Interpolation' hints at the lossy compression. I do not see the DCraw on my computer, or any configuration other than the basic one. It is a big pain using Lightroom to simply make the conversion from .dng's to Tiff's, so it would be nice if this RAWDrop program would not assume what we want and allow us to choose.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 22, 2013, 06:15:45 PM
I have been creating a new folder for each Raw file. Then PDR on each camera Raw file. Then raw2dng. Then Photoshop CC, open the first file of the sequence and all of them load. Select All files and do a quick grade. Then Save All files to Tiff. Then import the Tiff sequence into Premiere Pro CC to edit. Add Neat Video to clear up all the noise from the Raw sensor. Change the scale to 166% on height. Sheesh. Can someone make one utility that does that all in one step to the camera Raw files and even batch a group of camera Raw's? And the highest full quality Tiffs.
Gary
My workflow is the same, except instead of Photoshop CC I use Lightroom 5 and instead of Premier Pro CC I use Vegas Pro and I do not need to stretch, since I shoot crop mode 720p. The steps that are most cumbersome are the placing of RAWs in folders (21 clips = 21 folders) and the conversion from dng to tiff in Lightroom for me.
:)
@Gary2013
I think we're stuck with the Pinkdot remover for a bit. At least we can run that first and be done with it.
The other stuff I can write one script for. I need the optimum settings for
1. RAW2DNG (assume params not necessary?)
2. DCRAW (or some other command line that will spit out TIFFs
I can set flags to copy/delete files best for our workflow. My only problem with RAWanizer is the TIFFs have been half-size (height) for me.
Here's a script I started working on for Cineform creation, to give you an idea of what kind of scripts I'd write. Once set up, you put it on the folder with your source and it will create a target directory with everything ready for editing.
I also feel ffmpeg can be used to create a lossless video clip from TIFFs, saving another step in the NLE.
' ****************** CONFIG ME *******************************
ThisFolder = left(WScript.ScriptFullName,(Len(WScript.ScriptFullName))-(len(WScript.ScriptName)))
' AFTER SETTING PARAMs
' 1. Run this script (it generates ConvertRAW.bat)
' 2. Then run ConvertRAW.bat
' *** PARAMETERS REFERENCE ***
'-422- Encode to YUV 4:2:2 (default RAW.)
'-444- Encode to RGB 4:4:4 (default RAW.)
'-c - use Cineon curve (black 95, white 685)
'-cbX- use Cineon curve with 'X' black point (default 95.)
'-cwX- use Cineon curve with 'X' white point (default 685.)
'-dX - use debayer type 1-softest thru 4-sharpest (default auto)
'-fX - the framerate override for AVI|MOV media.
'-gX - use gamma curve
'-iX - in point, start processing on frame X (default 0, disables audio.)
'-lX - use log curve of power X (GoPro Protune.)
'-oX - out point, e.g. -o10 would precess 0 thru 9 (default infinite.)
'-qX - the encoding quality for AVI|MOV (default 4, range 1-5.)
'-sX - skip every 'x' frames (default 0).
'-(x1,y1,x2,y2) - window source Top Left (x,y) to Bottom Right (x2,y2)
Dim Prefix_RAW2GPFC, Suffix_RAW2GPFC
FolderForOutput = "Cineform422\"
Prefix_RAW2GPFC = "raw2gpcf "
Suffix_RAW2GPFC = " -dX 4 -qX 5 "
' Write folder for output to FFMPEG command
Suffix_RAW2GPFC = Suffix_RAW2GPFC & ThisFolder & FolderForOutput
NumberOfFilesToProcess = 1000 ' make, say 3, for testing.
UseExtension = ".AVI"
'*************************************************************
ReDim xFiles(0)
GetFiles(ThisFolder)
x = WriteBATFile(ThisFolder, ThisFolder & "\" & FolderForOutput)
'*********************************
' WriteBATFiles
'*********************************
Function WriteBATFile(argDir, argOuputDirectory)
Set WshShell = CreateObject("WScript.Shell")
Set objFso = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
Set objFile = objFso.CreateTextFile(argDir & "/ConvertRAW.bat")
' Create output directory if doesn't exist
If Not objFSO.FolderExists(argOuputDirectory) Then
objFSO.CreateFolder(argOuputDirectory)
End If
for i = 1 to ubound(xFiles)
objFile.WriteLine xFiles(i)
Next
objFile.Close
End Function
'*********************************
' GetFiles
'*********************************
Function GetFiles(argDir)
Dim fso, folder, files, NewsFile,sFolder
Set fso = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
Set folder = fso.GetFolder(argDir)
Set files = folder.Files
vCounter = 1
For each folderIdx In files
if right(ucase(folderIdx.Name),4) = ".RAW" Then
Redim Preserve xFiles(Ubound(xFiles)+1)
xFiles(Ubound(xFiles)) = Prefix_RAW2GPFC & argDir & "" & folderIdx.Name & Suffix_RAW2GPFC & replace(folderIdx.Name,".RAW",UseExtension)
vCounter = vCounter + 1
' For resting, only run a few
if vCounter > NumberOfFilesToProcess then
exit function
end if
' *** Write file name, testing
'NewFile.WriteLine(folderIdx.Name)
End if
Next
End Function
:)
:)
@maxotics and Gary2013:
the pdr has a cli you can use to automatically remove dots in your script.
Quote from: funkysound on August 22, 2013, 04:49:25 PM
@ atomas72: Best is to use the link #1110 on side 45 - Rootwang compiled all you need and it worked for me.
Thanks for the answer!!
I now have the black screen with green text, how to enable ML? If I restart camera I have normal program... And if I restart procedure I have the green text again...
sure that ml isn't active? try tapping with two fingers on the screen.
Quote from: mixer2 on August 22, 2013, 10:39:13 PM
sure that ml isn't active? try tapping with two fingers on the screen.
I tryed, nothing happens. Each time I see only success screen.
Quote from: atomas72 on August 23, 2013, 07:19:30 AM
I tryed, nothing happens. Each time I see only success screen.
That´s strange. No idea what went wrong with your installation. For me it worked totaly normal and still does.
:)
Hi, maybe this is not the right place to ask so I´m sorry about it but I wanted to ask, since the EOS M is a mirrorless camera with an electronic shutter and previous project like CHDK enabled compact canon cameras to shoot at 1/20000 speeds, its possible to overcome the 1/4000 limitation of the EOS M with magic lantern?
Thanks!
Not for photo... it has a normal shutter. Shutter syncing didn't work for some reason either but does on 6D.. so probably something to do with the funny timings. I think extra high shutters did work but that implementation went away and changed to sync for lights, screens, etc.
Hi,
I don't know if it is by design, but when I use "FPS Override" for very low fps like 0.5 fps , the shutter speed isn't affected and couldn go below 1/30 (like 1/10, 1/5 etc).. On the other hand, on 5D Mk II, it is the opposite, shutter speed is linked to the fps, and when I choose 0.5 fps, I can't choose shutter speed..
The question is, how can I go below 1/30 when i choose (really) low FPS from "FPS Override" on EOS M?
Thank you
Melih
Under low light you can. This area probably needs some help though. High jello can do the lower fps too.
No luck, it doesn't go below 1/30 (by the way I am not talking about the RAW movie, it is h264.. )
thanks
Melih
Quote from: melihozbek on August 23, 2013, 07:07:10 PM
No luck, it doesn't go below 1/30 (by the way I am not talking about the RAW movie, it is h264.. )
thanks
Melih
It goes down to, IIRC 0.05 FPS. You have to switch it to low light mode. Look carefully within the fps override menu before you post again.
BTW, shutter is what was causing all of those lines and dead pixels at fps like 1, .5, etc... so going back to that may cause the ugly defects to return and certainly don't want that... the low light with these problems was worthless.
Hello Everyone,
Couldn't keep the camera still, shooing in crop mode with the 22m. Also, want wide angle. So I bought a Sigma 10-22mm. I shot 1280x720 in crop mode at 24 fps. I'm still having trouble keeping the camera steady. And focusing! You can see a clip in these test videos where I'm shopping for reading glasses. I bought a pair at 3.25 magnification and they work well. Hope to get to some tripod, people shots this weekend. Haven't seen a touch of moire yet!
Have been spending oodles of time trying to find an ffmpeg output that has the same quality of TIFFs. So far, can't do it. The lossless setting for h264, gp 0, creates videos that don't play in Windows (or open in Vegas Studio). So I've been using gp 1. @Makr041 is right, of course, that creating a clip in Vegas Studio is very easy.
My take, so far, is that the really good CODECs are proprietary (like Cineform 444). The public ones, HUFFYUV and Lagarith, are no longer in development. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.
I noticed that the TIFFs that were generated from RAWanizer seemed to have a lot of red dots. Long story short, when I found dcraw version 9.17 (link and photos in the RAWanizer thread) it seemed to render better TIFFs.
Here are the setting I'm using, currently, in RAWanizer
dcraw: -w -6 -T
video (ffmpeg):
-threads 8 -i "{InputVideoName}" -vcodec libx264 -pix_fmt yuv420p -qp 1 -r {InputVideoFps} {Parameters} "{OutputVideoName}.mp4"
Here some video footage from today. I still try to shoot some in-camera H.264 comparisons. But they're never close to what I'm now getting, even going straight from RAW to gp 1 H.264. I'm going to stop doing those soon.
@maxotic so, in your opinion what's better - the RAW or the H.264? I realize that RAW is the real deal then the Video side. I tried like you and many others, it's a great experience, but I don't see any difference in the RAW. You're right, even if I tried the PDR and the Rawanizer, I still get other dots on sides of the clips. So, DCRaw is the better choice in doing RAW/Tiffs -- I'm quite new to all things RAW... Just like to hear other people's opinions.
@CinB13:
can you show me an example of the remaining dots?
@maxotics:
why have you bought the simga 10-20mm instead of the canon ef-m 11-22mm? imho it would be much better choice for eos m, especially for shooting video.
1. much smaller
2. less distortion
3. IS (!!!)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 23, 2013, 11:09:36 AM
funky,
when you have the black screen with green text saying successful, pull your battery out and then put it back in the camera.Now press the On button and it will start as normal. now tap the screen with two fingertips and the ML menus should show up.
gary
Thanks!! It's ok. tapping the screen with two fingers was the solution. :D
@Mixer2 Yes, I want the 10-22mm for all those reasons. If I was rich I would have bought one. Maybe even flown to Japan to get it ;) I found the 10-22mm Sigma on CL for $300 and I can easily use it with my 50D. I also have a friend who wants a wide-angle at some point, so I can use it and pass it on to them with no loss of money. Eventually hope to get the one you mentioned.
@CinB13. For almost all casual video RAW is not worth the effort. The video that comes out of these cameras is pretty amazing. I shot a small audition the other day, used the EOS-M's native video. Very easy, good quality. If I had tried RAW I would have needed extra cards, batteries, external audio, and hours of post production. So, as you ask, why RAW?
Photography is my hobby. I shoot mostly family and friends. I like a clean look. I especially like a natural, 3-dimensional look. You can see my photos at flicr.com/maxotics, if you wanted an idea. Mostly, I used Sigma DP cameras. I've always loved film too, but video cameras that shoot video that looks like film, to me, or has the same quality as my still cameras, costs in the tens of thousands of dollars. So I shoot camera video like everyone else. What I would like is a video option, where I can shoot 10-30 seconds of video, that I could put with my stills, maybe in photo/video collages. I started seeing RAW on Vimeo and knew it was possible. I then bought Andrew Reid's "50D RAW Shooter's Guide" and tried it on a 50D I picked up. I LOVED the results. Now I'm trying with an EOS-M so I can have a camera that is very portable and can shoot RAW. I should probably wait for the Black Magic Pocket, but, again, it's a hobby, and one doesn't do a hobby to wait and act rationally ;)
The reason you're not seeing the potential beauty of RAW is you're not shooting things you care about. If you took some footage of someone you love with normal video, and then shot RAW (or had someone shoot it) you would notice that RAW, makes the skin look natural (not yellow and red). The light would look as you saw it, not artificially bright. There would be a three-dimensional quality to the image. There would be no motion artifacts, little colored blocks dispersed thrugh the video, that everyone has gotten used to, like ugly telephone poles, but which, when removed, open up a more pleasurable viewing experience.
RAW is only better if you want certain niche things it can do. I love all kinds of cameras. I plan to shoot both RAW and in-camera video for a long, long time. Knowing I can get near perfect video, with little money (though lots of time) is just something I want.
Finally, most of the videos I post, do not show RAW in all its glory. They show certain technical differences. In fact, some have complained about how unappealing these videos look. They only mean something to others who have similar technical curiosity about what happens when one does this or that. Right now, it's about ironing out technical issues for me. My goal is beautiful video, though.
I read a lot of fantastic feature of ML, the most interesting, for me, seems to be video raw, I'm looking for the pinkdotremover.jar version for canon eos m raw video. Where can I find it?
Quote from: maxotics on August 24, 2013, 01:39:44 PM
Finally, most of the videos I post, do not show RAW in all its glory.
Speaking of which, has anyone tried a normal-dynamic range comparison (none of these, visible cloud vs visible indoor, but regular level of DR) between H.264 downscaled to 720p and the EOS-M 720p raw?
:)
Quote from: feureau on August 24, 2013, 04:21:47 PM
Speaking of which, has anyone tried a normal-dynamic range comparison (none of these, visible cloud vs visible indoor, but regular level of DR) between H.264 downscaled to 720p and the EOS-M 720p raw?
@feureau, If you move past my talking head you can see clips where I test exactly that. A problem is that dynamic range is effected by initial exposure and your post processing. So I feel people look at my clips and think, 'he just doesn't know how to expose/grade H.264 from the camera' I've asked many times for workflow to bring in-camera H.264 to the DR I see in RAW. No one has responded. I can only say in my experience, working with the both RAW and H.264 from the same camera that RAW has more DR than H.264. I think it is obvious to anyone if you ask them which video is more contrasty. Or put another way, try as I might, I can't get detail to show in H.264 that I can in RAW. In these clips I went straight to Cineform. If I had graded from the TIFFs the detail enhancement would have been even better (again, in my experience). Resolution does NOT equal DR. I thought it would, but it does not (at least for me). You might get more sharpness down-scaling, not DR, at least again, I can't. Also, RAW to me gives that three-dimensional light feel to images. H.264 doesn't, though again, others don't believe it or don't care or who knows what ;)
Hello,
where can I found the last ML for the actual EOS-M Firmware?
thx
Quote from: mixer2 on August 24, 2013, 10:07:06 AM
@CinB13:
can you show me an example of the remaining dots?
I, unfortunately have been testing around the RAW on EOS-M and may have deleted it. But I tried the RAWanizer to remove the pink dots on the middle of the clips, let it run, go to my editing program [Vegas], and I do see blue dots on the right side of the clips.
So, I won't rule out the implementation of RAW in EOS-M as it got a lot of ways to go in my opinion, but I won't abandon my trying out H.264 either.
P.S.: While following Mark's version of using 720p RAW, I don't see the dots.
@maxotics... You are correct about the DR. I believe there are several stops difference between RAW & H.264. Here are a couple ACR corrected frame grabs from my video shoot today which were a very good test of DR. Notice the properly exposed model while image detail is still well preserved in the highlights. Thanks to you and all the other wiz kids on here who got me off and running with the eosM!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/awv8jvdxz4ts0uv/Image7_ACR.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/awv8jvdxz4ts0uv/Image7_ACR.jpg)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sa4dmbgkltfkha3/Image11_ACR.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/sa4dmbgkltfkha3/Image11_ACR.jpg)
apart from the RAW video, is there a solution to remove dead pixels from silent shots? I've tried pinkdotremover 2013.08.08 version but no luck. photos neither squeezed nor have dots all over the place.
another thing is, when you use "take pics.. like crazy" on timelapse, it continues with real shutter action, I'd like to capture 1frame at a time, but fps override gives me headaches because of the half-pink frames and greenish view (I haven't seen anyone mentioned it, but my camera acts like brick sometimes. all the frames are greenish and not recording anything)
any help will be appreciated.
carl.
silent dng should work with pdr... if any dots don't get removed upload an example dng please.
Quote from: mixer2 on August 25, 2013, 02:31:17 PM
silent dng should work with pdr... if any dots don't get removed upload an example dng please.
here they are, please zoom in to see the dots
original silent dng, http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=NmeQn7uLm
supposed to be corrected dng, http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=TUeCK3EmA
:)
QuoteCan we get PLEASE get some more audio control by allowing stereo audio out thru the USB AV port AND keep the video showing all the time on the camera's LCD?
2nd part is easy, first part is hard. It doesn't just turn on monitor like on 550D, need to configure the IC to enable monitor mode and I don't even see it in the 650D IC (probably identical) datasheet. Plus it won't even record or beep without freezing.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 26, 2013, 04:21:46 PM
I don't know what you mean by the second part and first part.
gary
The second part is the latter bits, and the first part is the former bits, the former of the latter effects the latter of the former.
LOL, I Know what that means. :-) I am saying I only asked for one thing. Make the LCD stay on with audio out thru the AV port. Can you be more specific on first and second?
gary
edit-ok, re read it. are you meaning the second part is keeping the lcd on all the time? and the first part as having ther audio out thru the AV?
Yea, I just did the screen stays on portion... I found something else tho:
TestSetAudioHPMon 1 (24)
I2C > [22] aa
I2C done 1
So... I2C is writing to reg 22 and it wrote AA or the other way around. Maybe this is new way to do audio_IC write since 1/2 the regs on the new IC are only accessed with i2C. I think the parameter I'm throwing into hp mon isn't right. But at least something is happening.
:)
It turns off audio when idle so its actually a bit of a problem, it comes back for a second when the meters are on the screen. But the gist of the above is that I caught it sending a command so if I figure out that & compare with the 650D datasheet something might be possible.
It seems that there are several versions of a release that works with intervalometer, but none is gathered in one place.
There is a link at page 45, post 1110 wich contains a link.. but this zip file is pasword protected.
I am in spesific after intervalometer funtion... as i am about to put my camera in a multicopter.
I have to go to work but I'm planning on EOSM full pack with autoexpo (need *other AE_VALUE maybe) and I wanted to do dual ISO but I'm stuck on logging the regs still. I thought someone posted a full release earlier in the thread.
Quote from: hansidar on August 26, 2013, 05:30:39 PM
It seems that there are several versions of a release that works with intervalometer, but none is gathered in one place.
There is a link at page 45, post 1110 wich contains a link.. but this zip file is pasword protected.
I am in spesific after intervalometer funtion... as i am about to put my camera in a multicopter.
Just tested the download link again and for me the zip file is not pasword protected - all works fine ...
Is ML on the EOS M working with the Android App ML? Is the live view working?
I don't know if M supports this, I don't have the OTG cable to check.
@zuzukasuma:
please download this file and replace the one in the dotData dir of your PinkDotRemover.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j727o0iaho4i3vd/EOSM.txt
that silent dng resolution should work then too. if you find another silent dng resolution that doesn't work, please tell me that i can fix them too. in contrast to the raw movie dngs the silent dng do need special configuration for each resolution.
Quote from: mixer2 on August 26, 2013, 07:42:27 PM
@zuzukasuma:
please download this file and replace the one in the dotData dir of your PinkDotRemover.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j727o0iaho4i3vd/EOSM.txt
that silent dng resolution should work then too. if you find another silent dng resolution that doesn't work, please tell me that i can fix them too. in contrast to the raw movie dngs the silent dng do need special configuration for each resolution.
thank you mixer2, it worked.
processed vs original
(http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/6668/m7p.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/m7p.png/)
to my knowledge silent shots are 3:2 and full-screen, correct me if I'm wrong but all of them at the same resolution; 1734x695..
they are good for short silent timelapse shots, especially after resizing them to 2K on ACR8.
Quote from: 1% on August 26, 2013, 06:44:18 PM
I don't know if M supports this, I don't have the OTG cable to check.
The cam have a digital usb/av out. I thought this will be to send the live view to the tablet :o
Dose anyone tested to use the M + ML on Android?
Quote from: FunFox on August 26, 2013, 09:55:59 PM
The cam have a digital usb/av out. I thought this will be to send the live view to the tablet :o
Dose anyone tested to use the M + ML on Android?
Not tested myself (yet), from what I have heard all popular USB remote control / tethered shooting solutions (including the ones from Canon) do not work on the EOS M. And ML on Android is not in active development, last time I checked, the modifications which allow PTP communication to android device were done on a custom version of ML, no idea if those commits have found their way into the main branch. If EOS M does communicate over USB (I really hope so) then it might be interesting idea to base the android app on dslr dashboard, which is open source and in active development.
anyone working on solving issue of intervalometer? I don't want to use RAW video since there is a 4GB limit, but it seems the only option so far.
Quote from: rsaccon on August 26, 2013, 10:45:30 PM
Not tested myself (yet), from what I have heard all popular USB remote control / tethered shooting solutions (including the ones from Canon) do not work on the EOS M. And ML on Android is not in active development, last time I checked, the modifications which allow PTP communication to android device were done on a custom version of ML, no idea if those commits have found their way into the main branch. If EOS M does communicate over USB (I really hope so) then it might be interesting idea to base the android app on dslr dashboard, which is open source and in active development.
Thank´s for your answer. DSLRdashboard I have tried. It looks like I can control some parts of the cam (ISO, shutter...) but no live view and no rec function.
For me the EOS M incl. the ML will be teh perfect cam to use in my electronic gimbal. ROW, remote controlled and light weight!
I don't know if it's related to the ML but yesterday I found my eos m can't show the real time exposure results when I adjust the exposure compensation. I can only see the results after taking the photo. Anyone has any idea?
Quote from: haomuch on August 27, 2013, 09:10:37 AM
I don't know if it's related to the ML but yesterday I found my eos m can't show the real time exposure results when I adjust the exposure compensation. I can only see the results after taking the photo. Anyone has any idea?
Apparently you've managed to find and disable the exposure sim menu. Enable it and it will adjust for expo comp again.
:)
could anyone please tip me off on how to compile ML for EOS M 2.0.2? I have the toolchain and everything and can compile it just fine for my 700D, but the EOSM target in the unified branch seems to be for the 1.0.6 firmware. How do I get an autoexec.bin for 2.0.2?
thanks a lot,
-d
Quote from: feureau on August 27, 2013, 01:11:55 PM
Apparently you've managed to find and disable the exposure sim menu. Enable it and it will adjust for expo comp again.
Thanks very much for the tips. I found the exposure sim option in the ML menu and enabled it to get the real time exposure again. But I can't find the setting in the canon stock setting. Anyone know how to find it?
Quote from: daduke on August 27, 2013, 06:24:01 PM
could anyone please tip me off on how to compile ML for EOS M 2.0.2? I have the toolchain and everything and can compile it just fine for my 700D, but the EOSM target in the unified branch seems to be for the 1.0.6 firmware. How do I get an autoexec.bin for 2.0.2?
thanks a lot,
-d
Did you get your code from Hudson or tragic lantern? The latest is in tragic lantern, and I'm not sure why but it's been failing to compile on my ML compiler. (I'm using that VM thingy they put up)
Quote from: daduke on August 27, 2013, 06:24:01 PM
could anyone please tip me off on how to compile ML for EOS M 2.0.2? I have the toolchain and everything and can compile it just fine for my 700D, but the EOSM target in the unified branch seems to be for the 1.0.6 firmware. How do I get an autoexec.bin for 2.0.2?
thanks a lot,
-d
Look here: page 45, post 1110
@funkysound: thanks, but I'm not looking for binaries (I have ML running on my M), but for a way to compile it myself
@feureau: oh, I wasn't aware of the tragic lantern fork. I just cloned it, but it also seems to be for 1.0.6 and no, I can't compile it either. Thanks for the hint!
I have a question:
Every time I use the ML to do do regular video recording, when I hit the red movie record button. The screen tells me that Audio is disabled. Is there a way to un-disable it - I'm not shooting Raw? I'm just trying out different types like using the Anamorphic option since I have anamorphic projection lens and wanted to do some widescreen stuff. Also when I try the Anamorphic, and then hit record with the audio disabled (I don't understand), my filming gets out of whack, e.g.: it shoots a frame a sec.
Is there a way to remedy this?
P.S.: when doing regular movie recording, it would say "Sound disabled"
For focusing I need to find a replacement for the property.
Quote from: CinB13 on August 28, 2013, 02:14:42 AM
I have a question:
Every time I use the ML to do do regular video recording, when I hit the red movie record button. The screen tells me that Audio is disabled. Is there a way to un-disable it - I'm not shooting Raw? I'm just trying out different types like using the Anamorphic option since I have anamorphic projection lens and wanted to do some widescreen stuff. Also when I try the Anamorphic, and then hit record with the audio disabled (I don't understand), my filming gets out of whack, e.g.: it shoots a frame a sec.
Is there a way to remedy this?
P.S.: when doing regular movie recording, it would say "Sound disabled"
I would guess that you have "FPS Override" turned on, which will automatically disable sound in any mode. Make sure that is off if you want sound, even when recording Canon h264.
Does that fix it for you?
Quote from: zuzukasuma on August 27, 2013, 07:53:24 AM
anyone working on solving issue of intervalometer? I don't want to use RAW video since there is a 4GB limit, but it seems the only option so far.
Ive been using the intervalometer for the last couple of weeks with 2.0.2 firmware and it seems to be working fine.
Quote from: MrEdmondDantes on August 28, 2013, 02:35:17 AM
I would guess that you have "FPS Override" turned on, which will automatically disable sound in any mode. Make sure that is off if you want sound, even when recording Canon h264.
Does that fix it for you?
Well, I have worked with FPS Override turned off and still the Sound Disabled would come on after I record something. Something I noticed, after I reverted back to 2.0.2 firmware, I had to bring my Sound Recording back to audio, so maybe it was something in my part.
I may try to go back to ML and figure out what's going on.
:)
Quote from: 1% on August 26, 2013, 05:48:13 PM
I have to go to work but I'm planning on EOSM full pack with autoexpo (need *other AE_VALUE maybe) and I wanted to do dual ISO but I'm stuck on logging the regs still. I thought someone posted a full release earlier in the thread.
Is there any chance that dual ISO works also in the normal video mode or does it only work for RAW Video? (if it works on the M one day)
Even if the RAW video thing is really great ... I guess 90% or more of filming will still be H264
Yea, but dual ISO photos! I think it will work in LV/Photo as its digic V, differentiating what register is what may be hard but right now getting the log working would be nice.
I found focus info around 0x8926C. The numbers look like the prop on 6D, have to see what is what. and compare. Trap focus may yet work.
I plugged EOSM into USB... canon turns off LV and ML, I couldn't even log it. So if you're wondering why its not shooting LV over USB, now you know.
:)
It keeps the video on, not outputting anything yet tho. Its not easy... I have to reverse engineer the whole thing... just audio here and 7D looks promising from looking at it. On other new cameras it just loads a whole mess of commands and sends it as 1 thing to the audio IC.. so like 2x harder to decipher.
There is a nasty way to have meters all the time:
cache_fake(0xFF10ECF8, 0xE1A00000, TYPE_ICACHE);
I installed ML and everything seemed to work... But no menu's... If I hit the info button a few times the ML overlays will come up but hitting the trash button at the bottom of the jog wheel dose nothing...
I am using a 128 gig card... But I followed the instructions to use MacBoot to make the card bootable and then copied the ML components to the root of the card... The only difference is I added the UpDater.fir with the modules and the correct Autoexec.bin file because my camera is on 2.0.2 and would not recognize the original .fir file...
Any insights on what I might have done wrong or tips and tricks would be amazing... Thank you!!!
:)
:)
Hi today I just found that the eos m can only use manual lens with M, Av, Tv, and P modes. The shutter can't be released under other mode even it is already set to release without lenses. I just wondering if we can break this limit and allow the shutter to release under all modes?
So I can't turn on the meters myself :(... if I do it freezes like with wav. But I can stop them from turning off at least with so far no side effects.
What do you mean it can't? I took the lens off and it let me shoot in movie/photo mode.
Ok found a side effect, video w/audio locks up the camera, I'm having problems turning it off in the same manner as wav/asif/beep.
But found something new... state signatures?
http://pastebin.com/Y8TQYeTv
Quote from: 1% on August 28, 2013, 03:49:03 PM
I found focus info around 0x8926C. The numbers look like the prop on 6D, have to see what is what. and compare. Trap focus may yet work.
Trap focus would be amazing!
Keep up the good work!
The shutter can't be released without AF lens on under HDR and handle night shooting modes for example. Just like I said, it can only shoot under the first four M, Av, Tv, and P modes.
Quote from: gary2013 on August 28, 2013, 08:48:51 PM
tap the LCD display once with two fingers on one hand and the ML menus turn on. Tapping the Info button cycles through the four different displays with ML being one of them. The two finer tap on the LCD works with any display showing.
Gary
Thank you so much Gary and the Dev's for this amazing functionality...
Is the intervelometer working for everyone else? When I go to enable it, the camera pops back to video display and brings up a screen that says the intervelometer is about to start... but when it gets to zero nothing happens and the camera sort of locks up... none of the physical buttons work but if you tap with two fingers (thanks Gary ;) the ML menu comes back up but you can only cycle to the right through the different categories but you can not select anything... The only way to get control back is to eject the battery and restart the camera...
Epyonxero, did you do anything special?
Ok, those modes. I see override isn't overriding stuff for stills either.
I'm still getting random purple. I'm still not sure how to reproduce it. But on one occasion, I got this recording:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaJAIr-o6OA&feature=youtu.be
The camera was actually panning down in that shot.
On a different occasion, last night, I was playing with the fps override and it consistently purple at 12 fps low light mode. I can turn it off with the on/off button and it will restart, but once I did a battery pull, it won't reproduce.
@1% have you ever had this problem? On the one hand it's annoying, on the other hand... is there a way to make this consistently reproducible so we can record glitch art videos? :D
EDIT: I managed to get a purple screen by using FPS override: http://youtu.be/hW7cH8-pUZo These are 5 shots edited together.
I've posted a few days ago on page 44 reply 1075 of this thread...
I think I was so excited to have my M MagicLanternized ! that I forgot to set my brain to on !!! :P
So as I'm not used to touchscreen for serious gear... I didn't think ML was now a touch app !
So I've found most of my request with the touch menus !
If I understand well the squeeze is due to line skipping ?
I've found discounted Sandisk SDHC UHSI 95mb/s so I've bought one and RAW video seems to be stable.
I'm going to seaside to visit family, I'm gonna try longer recordings but from now 1 to 2 min shot are writing well.
PinkDotremoval seems to work like a charm ! How guys did that ? Are the dots in the metadata...can't understand how you achieve this process but it seems to work and to be without artefacts or approximation...
For me intervallometer still don't work : black screen, or Liveview working but with no response . When I set to Off, black screen with blinking LED, when then put on On it usually make a shutter sound but stuck on LiveView...So pull battery to unlock M...
Menu button change the apparence of the ML menu.
MY bigger QUESTION ??? :o or REQUEST ? 8)
Will live audio monitoring will be available like on the mark II ?
The AV cable AVC-DC400ST (that is sold separatly...from 5 to 20$) would be required but for me, this function would be SOOOOOO NICE !
Is it possible ? Will you work on it ?
The crop mode is 3x on the M ?
Same crop factor on the 50D ?
I'm still booting each time for ML but didn't try to change for now
AGAIN MANY THANKS !
.V
:)
QuoteWill live audio monitoring will be available like on the mark II ?
It looks possible. I posted a whole thread about audio in reverse engineering. Need to figure out the I2c functions to send the commands or ghetto it somehow with the TestSetAudioHeadphone
I know about the purple FPS thing, just hit play if that happens and then go back to LV. I have to set better limits for timer B which I started and never finished.
BTW, found some dual ISO stuff. It should work in LV and photo, just have to figure out which is which.
Just another vote for live audio monitoring (and audio meter fix). Meanwhile I am enjoying playing with RAW shooting.
Quote from: 1% on August 29, 2013, 06:13:09 PM
BTW, found some dual ISO stuff. It should work in LV and photo, just have to figure out which is which.
this is great! I'm looking forward to test dual ISO on EOS M. do you think you can crank the sensitivity to 14Ev (ISO 100-12800) ?
on 550D I can get max 11 + 2,4Ev (theoretically).
We'll see tomorrow. The 128K might not be real.
Quote from: 1% on August 29, 2013, 06:13:09 PM
I know about the purple FPS thing, just hit play if that happens and then go back to LV. I have to set better limits for timer B which I started and never finished.
Cool. Thanks!
This is more of a feature request, but is it possible to add something to trigger this purple thing so we can make glitch-art videos not unlike this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaJAIr-o6OA&feature=youtu.be please? :3
Hello 1% I know you are busy with many other features development and may not be able to improve the magic zoom function so quickly. Therefore I have a little suggestion as a work around for the manual focus. Currently I am using the automatic zoom when half shutter in the liveview tweak function in order to precisely focus. It could be a very good substitution of the magic room function. However as I posted before this function currently works in a kind of unstable way. In many situation the liveview get automatic zoom right after the shutter half pressed. And that process just obviously delays the shutter time, which makes it difficult to capture some quick moments. So I am wondering if we can have the option to trigger that function after a certain period when half pressed the shutter and allow immediate shutter if directly pressed down it. I believe it could make this function even more useful and handy.
Of course we finally want to see an improved magic room feature since it doesn't change the view range.
I know, I badly want sync on this camera... not just for MZ but display filter too. So far I've come up short.
Anyways, dual iso works. Wonder how it will play with the dots in LV, photo is ok it seems.
The digic registers make for much more fun glitch art than fps override :)
:)
Its worth a check, I have a few things to check out actually before I put up another d/l
Quote from: 1% on August 30, 2013, 04:15:30 PM
Anyways, dual iso works. Wonder how it will play with the dots in LV, photo is ok it seems.
I think we can use the same pink dot remover to remove dual iso AF dots.
its algorithm works the same way.
Is the intervalolmeter working for everyone else? For me it hangs and freezes up the camera after the countdown gets to zero to start the time-lapse...
Ok, here is the chance to find out I guess... I think sync is causing trouble with the LV dual ISO, it looks flashy on screen, not sure bout video so test first. Hopefully intevalometer works for you as it does for me.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5DFullbackADTGui.zip
well, its not a bug but, in continuous mode, when you shoot Dual ISO ( with 1 normal - 1dual iso option ) 1st frame normal, 2nd frame dual-iso, 3-4-5-6 dual iso continues. timelapse and dual iso works so far but I think we need a new cr2hdr converter.
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5998/lgh8.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/lgh8.png/)
*update: pink dot remover 2013.08.08 works to remove dots from RAW - Dual ISO video frames but, as I said before, we need new cr2hdr converter "pack" this time with raw2dng.exe :)
:)
Not ready yet unfortunately...
I can confirm the dual ISO thing. Post an image to the dual ISO thread or I will when the battery charges.
:)
@1%
Maybe we can trigger the auto zoom function only by the * key so that we can take immediate shutter without half press delay. Currently both key will trigger the function.
Great work on this guys. ML is amazing. However, is there a fix for the 18-55 ef-m lens shutter bug, its a pita having to keep turning the camera on and off just to get a shot, i even missed a few because of it. Im running the latest firmware with the bootloading ML if that helps.
Thanks.
Quote from: 1% on August 31, 2013, 01:15:47 AM
Ok, here is the chance to find out I guess... I think sync is causing trouble with the LV dual ISO, it looks flashy on screen, not sure bout video so test first. Hopefully intevalometer works for you as it does for me.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5DFullbackADTGui.zip
Hi formatted and loaded the new binary to the SD card as always. Things working fine except the the modules will not load - I get the message that the modules were not loaded but when I press the show console it indicates that the modules are loaded. Anything else to do?
QuoteHowever, is there a fix for the 18-55 ef-m lens shutter bu
Post a DM log of it not working, try to take a pic several times while logging it.
Modules are opt-in now.
Quote from: Canon eos m on August 31, 2013, 01:59:06 PM
Hi formatted and loaded the new binary to the SD card as always. Things working fine except the the modules will not load - I get the message that the modules were not loaded but when I press the show console it indicates that the modules are loaded. Anything else to do?
The DM Log file is way to big. Explorer hangs if I try to paste the contents on the thread!
Everything working fine except the modules will not load but when I press load modules the message is modules already loaded.
Quote from: 1% on August 31, 2013, 06:02:46 PM
Post a DM log of it not working, try to take a pic several times while logging it.
Modules are opt-in now.
@1% hope this helps sort the shutter bug
http://malakai.sytes.net/extras/DM.log (http://malakai.sytes.net/extras/DM.log)
You have to set them on and then it will autoload at start... unless you turn that off.
Looking to see if there is anything in the log.
It starts to take the picture and then it cancels it for unknown reasons... canon bug of some sort?
fssSW1On
evfPrepareChangeVdInterrupt[FrameNo:365](366)[0x7c714c]
CancelDeliverStage
CancelJpegStage
[CFIL] CancelCFilterStage 0xff0d51d4 0x0
deliverCancelJob:0
Epp_CancelCompleteCBR (0x00000008)
jpegCancelJob:0
Alloc[0]Shrink[0]Free[0]JpegCnt[0]
evfCompleteTransferYuvCBR 0
Epp_CancelCompleteCBR (0x00000020)
[CFIL] roughMonoCancel 0xff0d51d4
Epp_CancelCompleteCBR (0x00000010)
evfJobCancelCompleteCBR
evfPrepareChangeVdInterrupt::1_5_INTERLACE
evfPrepareChangeVdInterrupt::RecMovie[0]
evfPrepareChangeVdInterrupt::Frame[0]
[VRAM] FrameParam[0xab6cd0][0x0][0x279b4][0x0]
[VRAM]vram_SetSenserDriveParameter(73, 946, 3 2)
[VRAM]vram_SetSenserDriveParameter(0, 0, 0 0)
SetVDFrameLiveViewDevice
Cartridge Cancel[0]
Can this be fixed do you think? Would a complete removal, format and reinstall cure this?
Thanks 1%
Hi, is there a specific place for feature requests? I really just want to know id its possible...
Can it be made so that the screen remains off, maybe through hitting the info button. I there are times when I dont even need the screen I know what I want and how to shoot is and the screen just slow me down.
Also, is there a way to turn off the auto focus on the shutter and port it to the record button on the back AF/AF Lock.
Sorry if this is the wrong place for this, I'm still getting my bearrings on the site.
Thanks.
1% thanks for Dual ISO!!! Great work!
As I understood cr2hdr doesn't work for EOS M. Are there other ways to handle them?
Thanks
Not yet, 700D is in the same boat.
It is on 'autoload at start mode'. It just says 'module disable' against each module which are currently set to 'off'.
I may be missing a major step in the process.
This is what I did:
Format the SD card on the computer.
Format the SD card on the EOS M.
Copy the ML directory, autoexe.bin and *.fir files on the root directory of the SD card.
Firmware upgrade with the SD card in the camera.
Everything works fine except the modules just wouldn't load.
Set the modules you want on and reboot. Its opt in... or turn autoload off and set the modules you want on then load them manually.
Quote from: 1% on August 31, 2013, 01:15:47 AM
Ok, here is the chance to find out I guess... I think sync is causing trouble with the LV dual ISO, it looks flashy on screen, not sure bout video so test first. Hopefully intevalometer works for you as it does for me.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5DFullbackADTGui.zip
1% You are the man!!! Intervalometer is totally working flawlessly :) I guess I had a bad .fir compile... Thank you so much!!!
Quote from: 1% on August 31, 2013, 08:47:57 PM
Set the modules you want on and reboot. Its opt in... or turn autoload off and set the modules you want on then load them manually.
That is the challenge - modules are not going on / these remain off even if I try to turn these on manually.
Sorry stupid of me. Reboot makes these come on. Thanks as always.
:)
@canon eos m, are you seeing this tab on menu?
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4961/fu8y.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/fu8y.jpg/)
Does this work with the latest firmware? I just bought a used EOS-M, and I'm looking forward to loading it up with ML!
How does it not take pictures? Only problem is for that one lens that some people have issues on. Yes, this is 2.02 and no need for downgrades.
Quote from: AnotherDave on August 31, 2013, 11:01:49 PM
Does this work with the latest firmware? I just bought a used EOS-M, and I'm looking forward to loading it up with ML!
Yea I am using it with 2.0.2 and its working flawlessly for me... have not played with any of modules or raw record tho...
Quote from: gary2013 on August 31, 2013, 09:57:41 PM
can someone help em with why my camera now does not take pictures? only video movies. I reverted back to just Canon firmware and the shutter then works to take pictures. Reinstalled ML and it goes back to not taking any pictures.
Gary
Yea I noticed with the m22 lens everything works... But if I put my m18-55 lens on I can't take pictures anymore... Do you think its something with how the camera registers that specific lens?
:)
I'll have to compare the above log to one I take with the normal 22mm. Try using intervalometer with the "bad" lens... does it take pics?
:)
No it dose not take pictures using the intervalometer with the m18-55 lens... It seems to be acting the way it was with the other build I was using... When the countdown gets to zero the camera locks and you have to remove the battery to get control back...
I have been running through the menu's on the m22 and everything seems to work :)
Again many thanks 1% (really cool name btw)
Do any other IS lenses have similar issues? I have nothing with IS to check.
Here is a bin that doesn't use the malloc memory area, still the same?
http://www.filedropper.com/eosmnomalloc
Quote from: 1% on September 01, 2013, 12:30:06 AM
Do any other IS lenses have similar issues? I have nothing with IS to check.
I have EF-S 18-55 IS II from 550D kit and it seems to work fine, in fact I'm shooting my all timelapses with it, but I'm using lens twist method after setting up all settings. maybe I'm not experiencing any problems due to that.
It will let you take a photo normally though?
Quote from: 1% on September 01, 2013, 12:46:55 AM
It will let you take a photo normally though?
yeah, no problem at all. maybe they're trying to take photos on video mode. I'm not able to take photos on video mode
No I am not in video mode
:)
So IS works, just this one lens... The only other thing that blocks shutter is having crop mode on.
:)
I guess we'll have to keep looking.
Quote from: 1% on September 01, 2013, 12:30:06 AM
Do any other IS lenses have similar issues? I have nothing with IS to check.
Here is a bin that doesn't use the malloc memory area, still the same?
http://www.filedropper.com/eosmnomalloc
Yeah still no shutter activation using 18-55
With intervalometer too? AF off/on? Dummy mode/photo mode/movie?
I too had the no shutter issue with the 18-55, but may have a fix. I uninstalled ML with the lens on and fired the shutter with no ML installed but still on the card. Then installed ML with that lens on the camera. The shutter worked. I switched lenses, shutter worked. Put the 18-55 M back on, still worked.
Try that and see if it helps.
Does anyone have the camera freeze with ML when going to a picture and trying to get to apply the Creative Filters ?
Its working here. Any more specifics?
Could someone upload UpDaterM.fir to a site other than qfpost.com? That site is down. Thanks!
Quote from: mdwhaley on September 01, 2013, 03:44:42 AM
I too had the no shutter issue with the 18-55, but may have a fix. I uninstalled ML with the lens on and fired the shutter with no ML installed but still on the card. Then installed ML with that lens on the camera. The shutter worked. I switched lenses, shutter worked. Put the 18-55 M back on, still worked.
Try that and see if it helps.
This didnt work for me. :(
switch camera on without lens. Then mount 18-55 and you can make pictures.
sorry for my verry bad english
:)
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 01, 2013, 04:34:38 PM
How can we turn the camera on without ML installing, yet keeping the files intact on the memory card? I have tried holding the set button down when turning the camera on, but ML still installs.
Gary
use firmware update to remove ML from camera, files will be stay on the card until you format. check faq for removal instructions
Carl.
QuoteI heard it was bad to switch lenses with the camera turned on.
Maybe not good repeatedly but as a test (and accident) I've done it and nothing happened.
:)
I had it again. After i shot some RAW video in crop mode the shutter on the 18-55 ef-m would not fire again. With the camera on I removed the lens not even all the way and put it back on and it fires again.
Quote from: gary2013 on September 01, 2013, 06:39:16 PM
I just tried it and it works now. But how can we avoid this? what is happening when we do this lens off and on with the camera powered on?
BTW, I am back one version of ML. The one "without" the headphone tab top left.
gary
So with your camera off you powered it up, then connected the lens and then you could shoot. What happens when you power off then back on again? Does the shutter activate still or do you have take the lens off and put it back on to get it to work? If so then id rather just power off and back on within a second to be able to use this lens for now until a fix is found.
Dual iso from this should be convertable... dunno how the video will do.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/dual_iso.mo
Quote from: 1% on September 01, 2013, 08:01:18 PM
Dual iso from this should be convertable... dunno how the video will do.
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/dual_iso.mo
yup, works like a charm! congrats. Could you commit this to the 700D module too?
thanks,
-Christian
Quote from: Malakai on September 01, 2013, 07:51:50 PM
So with your camera off you powered it up, then connected the lens and then you could shoot. What happens when you power off then back on again? Does the shutter activate still or do you have take the lens off and put it back on to get it to work? If so then id rather just power off and back on within a second to be able to use this lens for now until a fix is found.
No. with the camera on I released the lens and turned to disconnect the terminals and then turned it back to remount it. I never turned it off
700D is supported too, someone just has to commit.
:)
asjdlfjsdlfj... this is a weird one... can anyone log with lens not working and then doing the twistaroo and the lens working?
:)
:)
:)
I don't think its related to new dualiso.mo but I'm experiencing something,
here is the setup;
2 sec delay for taking photos
touch shutter active
iso 100, f/3.5, 1/60
canon ef-s 18-55 IS II with fake-chinese EF/EF-S to EF-M adapter
dual iso active ISO 100/400
here is the problem;
when ever I touch the screen to take photo, it countdowns, takes the photo, but then freezes, no light, no screen info, all buttons freezing. have to hard-reset the camera to get working again.
another problem started to emerge on camera,
silent-burst dual iso shots are limited to 2, when it comes to 3 it says "saving cancelled" and continues with the normal shutter action
How big are the shots vs memory. There is only less than 50Mb shoot malloc with raw photo quality and video mode.
I have to try touch shutter, I have it set off.
Quote from: 1% on September 01, 2013, 11:44:38 PM
How big are the shots vs memory. There is only less than 50Mb shoot malloc with raw photo quality and video mode.
I have to try touch shutter, I have it set off.
normal silent shots, 1734x695. I've checked it after disabling the dual iso, ettr, and other modules, now seems to work fine on highiso-multishot-noisereduce mode with 42 bursts.
Just new here.
I just purchased an EOS-M with version1 put ML on it and happy with it.,
now i want to update it to version 2 can ML work on version 2 of eos-M? does it still have bugs in it? or its fully functional?
what are the steps? and download sites thanks in advance godbless you all guys for developing this wonderful tool ^_^
Quote from: yno0o_15 on September 02, 2013, 07:29:33 AM
Just new here.
I just purchased an EOS-M with version1 put ML on it and happy with it.,
now i want to update it to version 2 can ML work on version 2 of eos-M?
what are the steps? and download sites thanks in advance godbless you all guys for developing this wonderful tool ^_^
Can somebody post the file that was located at qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK I can't download it because the site is down.
@1%
Ive made a new DM.LOG for you to have a look at to see if you can see anything that may help with the shutter bug with the 18-55mm efm lens.
I started the log, powered off the camera for 10 seconds, powered up, activated the shutter three times, powered off and back on again within 2 seconds, activate the shutter three more times this time with it actually taking shots and powered down. Hopefully it might indicate where the problem is.
DM.LOG (http://malakai.sytes.net/extras/DM.LOG)
Hope it helps
Quote from: nick.p on September 02, 2013, 09:51:30 AM
Can somebody post the file that was located at qfpost.com/file/d?g=NzBmhwaBK I can't download it because the site is down.
Bump again for this... there is no way for us to install ML without it. That site seems to have bit the dust.
Quote from: dube on September 02, 2013, 12:28:49 PM
Bump again for this... there is no way for us to install ML without it. That site seems to have bit the dust.
which file is it? ill put a link up to it for a few days from my server until its updated
Quote from: Malakai on September 02, 2013, 12:39:18 PM
which file is it? ill put a link up to it for a few days from my server until its updated
It's the UpDaterM.fir file. I can also host it for as long as it is needed.
edit:
upped to mega
UpDaterM.fir (392 KB) (https://mega.co.nz/#!SMg1WA5L!VHegzkKhCKhN6xJeMezFE0zigmIlYT8GWexN5QDYQNA)
Good morning folks! Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask! I have a new EOS M that came with firmware 1.06 so I want to know where to find the proper build of ML to use or if its better to update to 2.02. The build I´ve found its for 2.02. Also I´m not sure which tutorial to use, just format the sd card or if I have to use EOSUtility.
Thanks and keep the good work!
Quote from: tetsu on September 02, 2013, 01:31:42 PM
Good morning folks! Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask! I have a new EOS M that came with firmware 1.06 so I want to know where to find the proper build of ML to use or if its better to update to 2.02. The build I´ve found its for 2.02. Also I´m not sure which tutorial to use, just format the sd card or if I have to use EOSUtility.
Thanks and keep the good work!
I was in the same position a few hours ago. I was trying to avoid updating to 2.02 because I didn't think the boot flag was working. I struggled for about an hour before updating and now everything works perfectly. I was even able to compile the latest version and slap that on.
Quote from: nick.p on September 02, 2013, 01:46:25 PM
I was in the same position a few hours ago. I was trying to avoid updating to 2.02 because I didn't think the boot flag was working. I struggled for about an hour before updating and now everything works perfectly. I was even able to compile the latest version and slap that on.
Can you post a guide? I´m just worried about the lens focus issue with the 18-55 lens and firmware 2.02
Quote from: tetsu on September 02, 2013, 01:53:27 PM
Can you post a guide? I´m just worried about the lens focus issue with the 18-55 lens and firmware 2.02
What focus issue?
If you are referring to the shutter bug, i think it only effects the 18-55 ef-m but if you turn the camera on then power off and back on within 2 seconds its fine. Basically, when you first power on the shutter wont activate but doing the quick power cycle it fixes it.
Ive posted a new log for 1% to see if anything can be cross referenced from the before and after powercycle. Cross your fingers.
IMHO bootloaded ML on 2.02 is fantastic, focus peaking is an absolute godsend and i dont know why canon didnt include this as part of the stock FW. Also having the ability to up the bitrate on video capture as well as being able to use one picture style for photos and it auto change to another for video is brilliant!
Here's how I did it:
Step 0: Update to version 2.02
Step one: Format the card using the computer
Step two: Format in camera
Step three: Put these files on the card - http://www.nickpotts.com.au/downloads/ML_nick_g3gg0_30_Aug_2013 (http://www.nickpotts.com.au/downloads/ML_nick_g3gg0_30_Aug_2013)
Step four: Enable the boot flag and eos develop in eoscard - found here: http://pel.hu/eoscard/ (http://pel.hu/eoscard/)
Step five: Run software update on camera
Step six: Celebrate?
I'm not 100% this will work but this is approximately what I did.
how can i update to version 2? sorry guys newbie here ^_^ tnx
is ML in ver2.0.2 1005 bug free now? and 100% working?
Quote from: yno0o_15 on September 02, 2013, 03:04:35 PM
how can i update to version 2? sorry guys newbie here ^_^ tnx
is ML in ver2.0.2 1005 bug free now? and 100% working?
Grab the 2.02 fw from canon, pop it in the root of a SD card and go to FW in menu and update.
ML is still in Alpha. Its still buggy. Its not ready for main stream release as its still being worked on and so is installed at your own risk.
Hope this helps.
thank you
Quote from: nick.p on September 02, 2013, 02:02:08 PM
Here's how I did it:
Step 0: Update to version 2.02
Step one: Format the card using the computer
Step two: Format in camera
Step three: Put these files on the card - http://www.nickpotts.com.au/downloads/ML_nick_g3gg0_30_Aug_2013 (http://www.nickpotts.com.au/downloads/ML_nick_g3gg0_30_Aug_2013)
Step four: Enable the boot flag and eos develop in eoscard - found here: http://pel.hu/eoscard/ (http://pel.hu/eoscard/)
Step five: Run software update on camera
Step six: Celebrate?
I'm not 100% this will work but this is approximately what I did.
Thank you Nick! That worked great except from one link, the Magic Lantern zip does not work, it needs the EOSM1202.FIR file, your link does not have it.
I used this one instead. All worked great!
http://cdn.bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5DFullbackADTGui.zip
Another question, whats que Q button on the M? I cant seem to find it to set the settings on the intervalometer module.
Thanks!
Quote from: tetsu on September 02, 2013, 04:23:32 PM
Thank you Nick! That worked great except from one link, the Magic Lantern zip does not work, it needs the EOSM1202.FIR file, your link does not have it.
I used this one instead. All worked great!
http://cdn.bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5DFullbackADTGui.zip
Another question, whats que Q button on the M? I cant seem to find it to set the settings on the intervalometer module.
Thanks!
highlight it and touch the screen to bring up the second menu
I couldn't find any pics being taken in the log. You can't power down while logging or it will stop going I think.
I tried taking three shots from powering it on with the shutter not activating because of the bug but then powered off and back on before the light flashes. (If the light flashes after powering off, when powering it up the bug persists) I then took three more shots, this time it worked and took pictures. I then went into the ML menu and hit DL to stop the log....
Wait, i just realised, yeah, it may have stopped the log on the powerdown. Ill do two logs. One powered up with the camera not taking shots. then ill do the restart trick, start another log and take shots with it working and paste both logs here. Perhaps cross refrencing them will help that way. Give me two minutes.
:)
Quote from: 1% on September 02, 2013, 04:57:41 PM
I couldn't find any pics being taken in the log. You can't power down while logging or it will stop going I think.
@1%
try these two logs
No shutter activation (http://malakai.sytes.net/extras/eosm/DM_NOACT.LOG)
With shutter activation after quick restart (http://malakai.sytes.net/extras/eosm/DM_ACT.LOG)
Hope these help
Ok, checking it out. BTW the dual ISO for silent pics/video may still have issues so don't shoot anything important with it.
I am thankful for what 1% has done. But when i install the newest update the modules didn't load. So i can't record raw and auto ETTR couldn't load and dual iso of course don't load.
:)
hopefully 1% can figure it out :D
:)
So maybe false alarm about the video:
9-2-CR2hdr-Raw2dng-EOSM.zip (72 KB)
https://mega.co.nz/#!5sRilQJb!bs1pIFbAFwxt7unCkIl3wm2VQbIyhn9fbXB_rsC-auQ
These are correctly built cr2hdr.exe and raw2dng.exe.. you need your own dcraw (9.19 is the latest) and exiftool.
Still says black subtraction failed but the files are coming out... I had lots of trouble using "other" versions. Dunno if you'll have all the libraries, built on mingw + mysys system win7x64.
Raw video files don't have any black correction info yet.
That explains it. I can build "linux" cr2hdr into an EXE (make cr2hdr) or make cr2hdr.exe... former doesn't produce proper files, they have weird horizontal banding, etc.
Quote from: 1% on September 02, 2013, 07:24:52 PM
9-2-CR2hdr-Raw2dng-EOSM.zip (72 KB)
https://mega.co.nz/#!5sRilQJb!bs1pIFbAFwxt7unCkIl3wm2VQbIyhn9fbXB_rsC-auQ
is it possible to upload file to another server? I'm not able to access mega.
:)
thanks Gary, I've checked the results from new cr2hdr.exe and cr2hdr_exp.exe, not much of a difference, or I think I have to test them in daylight to see the difference.
Quote from: 1% on September 01, 2013, 04:08:44 AM
Its working here. Any more specifics?
every time i go to press PLAY than press MENU and to to CREATIVE FILTERS ... and try to apply filters the camera will get stuck and no button works until i remove the battery
First off, thanks tons @1% for putting together [EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip, I've been waiting for a proper Alpha update like this to move up to the v2 firmware. I did so yesterday, and everything is working great for me (or as expected). At this point, I'm not too terribly concerned about RAW workflow, at least not until 2048/24fps is field-dependable. I am wondering however about ML's research history into different captured resolutions in h264. Likely something that's been discussed, but I've failed to locate any discussion of consequence in the forum. Understanding that Movie Crop Mode reduces the bayer pattern to a 1:1 pixel capture ratio, has there been any luck in writing the full sensor to h264? I'm able to write 1920/24fps at 5x CBR without my camera even breaking a sweat with a 45/mbps card, and Movie Crop Mode would be much more useful with the whole sensor as canvas, especially in LiveView. Just some thoughts, I'm really pushing to make this device my full-time production camera. To me, the smaller the rig, the better.
:)
@gary2013 - My go-to lens has been Canon's EF 24mm f/2.8, but in Movie Crop Mode, it makes me terribly claustrophobic. I'd love nothing more than to live in Crop Mode because of the tighter pitch and lack of interference, but APS-C sensors already have a 1.6 crop factor, then zoom by 2.7 and I'm suddenly on a 104mm lens. I either need to switch to a 8mm lens to compensate, or figure out how to capture more of the 5,184 total pixels; 4096x2160/24fps in h264 at a respectable bitrate would be super rad.
:)
Anthony, I've been shooting with the Sigma 10-22mm, in crop mode, with good results. (using Canon EF adapter). Although the lens and adapter add considerable size to the camera, the weight actually helps me hold it steady. I've heard the 8mm has some distortions. I'm going to get a Century Optics .5x wide angle adapter for my 22mm and see how that works. It's $165 and I'm hesitant, but I know the cheap ones are probably a waste. The lens is very small. If it works, that would be the way to go. So you may want to wait until I get and can post some video. As for shooting H.264 over RAW, to each is own! I like the subtle water-color look of RAW.
@gary2013 - I wish I could jump in and help out with the project, but alas, I don't know C. @maxotics - Don't get me wrong about RAW; I am looking forward to using it in production when I can, but for now I'm pretty happy with h264 results using ML.
:)
@Anthony, I went out and shot some RAW on my 50D. Come home, it's now in the .MLV format. Brilliant work by the Magic Lantern team, I'm sure. But now what am I supposed to do with it? The processing software is not really ready yet. All this to say I wouldn't try to push anyone into RAW. You want to be well-rested ;) Also, if I could get a flatter picture using H.264 I would maybe you or someone else can tell me how. That would be great. So far, everything in the shadows goes to black for me. In what software? I'm on a PC and use Vegas Studio (the cheap version)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 03, 2013, 01:20:28 AMtry different profiles like Cinestyle or Flaat
^this
@maxotics - I
love love love Technicolor's CineStyle PP; shadows and highlights stay very useable in most situations. Compared to Neutral, it's actually quite difficult to bake all the detail out of your shadows.
:)
Creative filters still working, even with modules loaded.... I dunno what else can be done with H264 in terms of size, if something is figured out sure. Its NOT simple to change the LV size... each one is its own mode.
I hate to bother the devs with my trivial problems but I'm so excited to try dualiso that i had to post :P. I have the module working but im on a mac and the build of cr2hdr that i compiled from the ML source isn't working. I know 1% posted a windows binary, so I pulled it up in my wine, however, the dcraw 9.19 isn't running under wine. Is there a trick to compiling it correctly? Am I using the wrong source?
You guys rock
Edit: tried building form TL-6D tree, too. same error...
Edit: so i got it a dcraw.exe 9.19 (http://www.centrostudiprogressofotografico.it/en/dcraw/) working in wine, but i still get the same error as i would running the native built one: Interlacing method not supported
Quote from: 1% on September 03, 2013, 02:21:02 AMI dunno what else can be done with H264 in terms of size, if something is figured out sure. Its NOT simple to change the LV size... each one is its own mode.
That's sort of what I figured after finding this thread: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=2758.0
Movie Crop Mode's LV when capturing in h264 appears to represent the full 1920x1080 area of the resulting video, however. Canon's choice, or was that a ML effort?
I think crop mode is less skips, it was canon's choice.. hence no 6D/5DIII (doesn't have the crop stuff).
Maybe something can be done with ADTG/CMOS but the jury is still out.
I've tried to find some answers here, but am having trouble. Hopefully I'm not out of place asking this question. I am not really all that into the shooting of the RAW video, but am mainly looking to put ML on my EOS-M for the live histogram and focus peaking features.
Questions:
1. There seems to be some conflicts about whether or not you can automatically load ML on bootup, or if you have to flash every time you use it. I know an older version was flash on every use, but any new ones where that isn't the case?
2. If there is a "new" version, is it really risky to install? It almost seems like we're flashing firmware designed for a Sony onto the EOS-M. Maybe I'm just not understanding?
Thanks for everyone's amazing efforts here, and again, pardon my ignorance.
Quote from: eosm1986 on September 03, 2013, 04:28:27 AM
Questions:
1. There seems to be some conflicts about whether or not you can automatically load ML on bootup, or if you have to flash every time you use it. I know an older version was flash on every use, but any new ones where that isn't the case?
2. If there is a "new" version, is it really risky to install? It almost seems like we're flashing firmware designed for a Sony onto the EOS-M. Maybe I'm just not understanding?
Thanks for everyone's amazing efforts here, and again, pardon my ignorance.
1. 1% just posted a new version that does not require flashing i.e. the bootflag works: FullbackADTGui.zip"]https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip (http://"https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM)
You have to set up your card to with with ML. Use EOSCard or MacBoot: http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install (http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install)
2. It's risky because its Alpha, but i have not had any problems. I do have to pull battery out whenever it stalls just in case it may overheat. Otherwise it seem relatively stable considering its Alpha.
From what I understand there is nothing Sony about this. Correct me if i'm wrong. If anything the new dual_iso module is something Nikon does.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 03, 2013, 04:45:36 AM
1. 1% just posted a new version that does not require flashing i.e. the bootflag works: FullbackADTGui.zip]https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM)
You have to set up your card to with with ML. Use EOSCard or MacBoot: http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install (http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install)
2. It's risky because its Alpha, but i have not had any problems. I do have to pull battery out whenever it stalls just in case it may overheat. Otherwise it seem relatively stable considering its Alpha.
From what I understand there is nothing Sony about this. Correct me if i'm wrong. If anything the new dual_iso module is something Nikon does.
Wow! That was quick. Thank-you! I have a 8GB SD card, but when I pull up EOSCard with the files on it, it throws the errors FAT32 VBR failed. Anyone see this before? Looks like a few people have seen it before, but no definitive answers. I've tried multiple times, without effect.
I haven't had this problem since i'm on a mac so the other threads might be more helpful. My hunch is that you haven't done a low level format through your EOS M.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 03, 2013, 05:01:52 AM
I haven't had this problem since i'm on a mac so the other threads might be more helpful. My hunch is that you haven't done a low level format through your EOS M.
Hmm - very strange. No, I just tried a "non-quick" format on my PC followed by a low-level one of the EOS M. No change. Boy, after reading about this ML, I'm really excited to use it - if I can get this SD card working.
:)
:)
It shuts down LV when it connects to the computer. I think its missing the functions to pass lv over USB. I can try PTP to just send it commands.
Quote from: gary2013 on September 03, 2013, 05:52:56 AM
Make sure your battery has a good/full charge, and make sure your camera is set to the M (manual) mode for pictures. Then go to the Canon menu option for firmware version which is the last yellow tab on the right. BUT, before all of that, make sure you prep your card in the ways listed, each step in order. It's talked about on here many times. I don't remember the exact reply number. Doesn't hurt to read through the messages on here. You can learn a lot. Maybe even start around page 30 or so and you will find the list of steps.
Gary
Edit= here is a start, page 34, Reply #840
Thanks for everyone's help. Got it working, but just by copying the files to the card and updating the firmware. I never was able to make the card truly bootable with EOSCard - just wouldn't recognize the VBR on the SD card. Hopefully that helps someone.
I am new to this forum, very impressed and thankful for your hard work I loaded successfully the ML however I have two issues, one, no matter what i do I end up with 29.97 f/s even-though I selected 24 f/s frame rate override and second issue, in crop mode I get 23.97 f/s however image has pinks fine dots all over the place (dot remover doesn't remove them) Am I doing something wrong I am especially disappointed by the frame rate why i can get 24p in raw. When I do playback (export from after effects) footage seems slightly fast motion
Do you have trouble with intervalometer with exposure ramping? I am having trouble getting it to work. I can set values, but it will say 0 picture taken when it counts down to take photos.
@1%
Were those logs any use for the 18-55 shutter bug?
Thanks
:)
QuoteWere those logs any use for the 18-55 shutter bug?
I looked and still can't find anything that's actually an error. I dunno whats up with just this particular lens.
:)
Yea, I looked over both, maybe some canon task gets stuck and restarts? Really strange problem.
:)
bummer, its a pita to use that lens having to powercycle just to get shots. But you gotta do what you gotta do.
Thanks for all your help 1%
Edit:
I was hoping that the log would show the difference between the shutter not activating and activating when using the cycle/remove lens trick too.
Does the lens problem happen without ML?
If not, it's easy to troubleshoot: just disable ML components one by one (or all of them, then enable one by one).
lens is fine without ML, ive not tried disabling components one at a time though. Ill try it now.
:)
ive just tried it with everything off including modules and with just the modules loaded and its still not activating the shutter.
I think you'd have to take features out 1 by one and recompile.
that sounds like a lot of work. shame the logs we posted cant narrow it down a little.
where can i get the updated modules, im getting v2.0 expected v3.0
ETTR.MO
FILE_MAN.MO
PIC_VIEW.MO
RAW_REC.MO
:)
:)
Maybe its related to the USB problem where the camera goes freezy when you pull usb.
1% Is it just you working on this version of ML?
:)
:)
See for me connecting to my linux pc it doesn't do the cleaning message... and I got LV on with cache hacks while USB is connected. Dunno what the EOS utility will do now, have to try it. Won't let you access the currently used folder.
Quote from: 1% on September 03, 2013, 04:20:28 PM
I looked and still can't find anything that's actually an error. I dunno whats up with just this particular lens.
I´ve been having this problem also, the strange thing is when I installed ML everything worked fine, after a day of use the problem started (unable to shoot a picture using the 18-55 kit lens), the only way to overcome the bug is to turn the camera off then turn it on in less than 2 seconds, sometimes this does not work and you have to repeat the process several times in order to shoot some pictures, its extremely annoying. I´m getting an adapter and I will try to reproduce this error with EF lenses.
But all of this is normal given this is alpha software! Thanks for the great work 1%!
I used the adapter and wasn't able to reproduce it with lenses other than this one. Above even IS lenses were used and working so its just something this lens does special.
:)
Quote from: 1% on September 03, 2013, 09:06:53 PM
I used the adapter and wasn't able to reproduce it with lenses other than this one. Above even IS lenses were used and working so its just something this lens does special.
perhaps its something related to the fact that this lens have focus and IS that are enabled or disabled electronically, unlike other EF or EF-S lenses.
hey folks, I'm sure you all have ef/ef-s to ef-m adapter, if you don't have it'll be 50$ on ebay (chinese copy) and many of you have other crop sensor canon cameras, 550D, 600D, 60D, use a normal EF-S 18-55 IS II (which costs $50 to $100, new STM is $150 I think).
there is obviously something wrong with EF-M 18-55 IS STM.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 03, 2013, 10:04:42 PMthere is obviously something wrong with EF-M 18-55 IS STM.
It's a super dark lens, to boot; f/3.5 maximum? No thanks.
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on September 03, 2013, 10:08:41 PM
It's a super dark lens, to boot; f/3.5 maximum? No thanks.
do you know what I'm talking about? check older posts about that 18-55 STM EF-M lens.
:)
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 03, 2013, 10:09:39 PMdo you know what I'm talking about? check older posts about that 18-55 STM EF-M lens.
I've never owned that lens, myself. Wasn't interested, just bought the body and an ef adapter.
:)
QuoteThere is "logically" something wrong with how ML handles the info from this lens.
Probably ML is using some memory area that canon wants to use and some task/process hangs.
I'd say sure, use ANYTHING better and chuck it in the bin but this lens comes with a lot of EOS-Ms and/or costs like $150+.
Quote from: gary2013 on September 03, 2013, 10:27:54 PMthe forum is here for "all of us" to help fix and test things for ML. NOT to debate about who's lens is better. There are plenty of other forums to have those pissing contests.
Sorry, just got off topic; my apologies.
:)
:)
:)
Not sure, I can try to figure out the USB bug, maybe its related to the same thing. I had this on 6D where something wasn't patched right and wifi/usb would lock up on 112.
sorry if I missed this in a previous post, am I supposed to delete another file when adding the DuelISO mod.
I'm assuming it went in the mod folder, or does it go on the root?
Just had a thought. I never noticed the 18-55 efm shutter bug when i was loading the firmware via FW menu. Before the bootloading version. Perhaps there is something during bootloading that is causing the problem.
@1%: What boot method are you using on the M?
@1%
I just noticed in post #248 you managed to up a new autoexec file that fixed the bug for jupiter55. I tried that autoexec on the latest bootloading version but i just get flashing sd light and have to pull the battery to reset.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 03, 2013, 02:31:59 AM
I hate to bother the devs with my trivial problems but I'm so excited to try dualiso that i had to post :P. I have the module working but im on a mac and the build of cr2hdr that i compiled from the ML source isn't working. I know 1% posted a windows binary, so I pulled it up in my wine, however, the dcraw 9.19 isn't running under wine. Is there a trick to compiling it correctly? Am I using the wrong source?
You guys rock
Edit: tried building form TL-6D tree, too. same error...
Edit: so i got it a dcraw.exe 9.19 (http://www.centrostudiprogressofotografico.it/en/dcraw/) working in wine, but i still get the same error as i would running the native built one: Interlacing method not supported
Hi, I downloaded dcraw 9.19 but did but no relief. The dual-ISO photo will not convert with cr2hdr.exe.
Can ML do HDR h.264 video? Ive been using the Film Picture style but if i could get HDR too that would be fantastic!
Edit: found it ;)
Quote@1%: What boot method are you using on the M?
6D method. I have to double check restart address and the 2 locations but it looks right. It uses malloc for bvram but without it the kit lens still locks.
QuoteBefore the bootloading version.
It was still booting the same just exploiting the FW menu first to restart.
A totally unrelated question. I´ve been using the EOS M for timelapses and the intervalometer is one of the best ML features for me.
Is there a way to disable the liveview while taking photos on the EOS M using the the intervalometer of ML? I cant find a way to turn the liveview off, and the screen drains the battery so fast specially when doing timelapses.
Quote from: 1% on September 02, 2013, 07:24:52 PM
So maybe false alarm about the video:
9-2-CR2hdr-Raw2dng-EOSM.zip (72 KB)
https://mega.co.nz/#!5sRilQJb!bs1pIFbAFwxt7unCkIl3wm2VQbIyhn9fbXB_rsC-auQ
These are correctly built cr2hdr.exe and raw2dng.exe.. you need your own dcraw (9.19 is the latest) and exiftool.
Still says black subtraction failed but the files are coming out... I had lots of trouble using "other" versions. Dunno if you'll have all the libraries, built on mingw + mysys system win7x64.
Hi 1% please teach me to extract dual iso CR2's from the EOS M to dng.
I don't think you can disable the screen completely. Power save with the shortcut might black it out, just set a dim/off value too and then hit info.
Post a Cr2, the utility worked for me on both LV and photo.
Another attempt to fix the lens issue, change boot to copy and restart. It doesn't fix the USB but try with the kit lens:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/EOSM-COPY.zip
Quote from: 1% on September 04, 2013, 03:46:37 PM
I don't think you can disable the screen completely. Power save with the shortcut might black it out, just set a dim/off value too and then hit info.
Post a Cr2, the utility worked for me on both LV and photo.
Another attempt to fix the lens issue, change boot to copy and restart. It doesn't fix the USB but try with the kit lens:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/EOSM-COPY.zip
I´ve tried, it worked the fist time then after restarting the camera locks up i have to remove the battery to boot it again. Do i have to flash the firmware again? There´s a EOSM_202.sym on your zip file, I dont know if i have to change the extension to fir.
Quote from: tetsu on September 04, 2013, 08:13:20 PM
I´ve tried, it worked the fist time then after restarting the camera locks up i have to remove the battery to boot it again. Do i have to flash the firmware again? There´s a EOSM_202.sym on your zip file, I dont know if i have to change the extension to fir.
EOSM_202.sym' is for putting in to ML\modules folder
carl.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 04, 2013, 08:15:54 PM
EOSM_202.sym' is for putting in to ML\modules folder
carl.
thanks, now i can´t shoot pictures even after turning it off then on quickly, reverting to previous version.
Quote from: tetsu on September 04, 2013, 08:38:39 PM
thanks, now i can´t shoot pictures even after turning it off then on quickly, reverting to previous version.
new version doesn't require such action like flash reboot.
It didn't have any problems like that unless stuff is copied to wrong locations... but if the lens still doesn't work its not the boot method.
:)
So the boot method isn't the problem.. with copy and restart it lets you come back from that sensor cleaning but still not shut down... I'd log it but at that point logging doesn't work... you can't touch shoot mem or stack space and they are 0.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 04, 2013, 08:42:58 PM
new version doesn't require such action like flash reboot.
i mean that the problem is still present, and even with this version i cant seem to shoot anything.
:)
Well I can reproduce it now:
Copy&restart - Unplug usb, off, sensor cleaning -> power back on, won't shut down
Cache hack - unplug, off, sensor cleaning -> black screen
So it comes back w c&R but you still have to pull the battery.
I am sorry to report that the Century Optics .5 Wide Angle Adapter does NOT work with the Canon 22mm pancake that is often bundled with the EOS-M. It is impossible to get focus at any distance.
My guess is that it is designed for camcorders with lenses farther back from the mount and smaller sensors.
Looks like I will have to get a 10-20mm Canon EOS-M lens from Canada at some point. My Sigma 10-20mm, with the EF mount, works well on the EOS-M. So I would expect the same, if not better (IS), from the Canon lens.
Quote from: tetsu on September 04, 2013, 09:41:52 PM
i mean that the problem is still present, and even with this version i cant seem to shoot anything.
its getting boring to read posts about 18-55 STM here. we know it has a problem, and only one developer tries to fix it. I wish I'm capable of fixing it but I'm not. if you're not able to shot sth ML & 18-55 then try to shoot without 18-55 STM. I don't have the lens I've bought the camera with 22mm f/2 kit and works fine for me. even if I want to use 18 mm I connect my old 18-55 IS II with ef/ef-s to ef-m adapter and works just fine.
@maxotics, if you'd like to spend a few more dollars, I recommend you to use 12-24 sigma for canon, it also supports full-frame usage.
@zuzukasuma Thanks for the suggestions. I have a Sigma 10-20mm that I use with the EF Adapter. It works very well. However, I have it on a 50D and would like a setup for each camera. I would think the Canon 10-20 lens made for the EOS-M would be the best route, but that's $400 and now I'm wondering if I should just wait for the BMPCC if I'm going to start throwing that kind of money around :) I'm in a real pickle. On CL I can see a 17mm/3.4 for $150, or a 15mm/2.8 for $450. Is it worth it? Those lenses good for all Canons. Maybe just get some sort of way to steady the 22mm in crop mode. Or maybe a Sigma 17-70/2.8? Whoa is me :( What other suggestions do you have? What I want is EOS-M, small enough to fit in a fanny pack, where I can go into crop-mode and take what I think is exceptional RAW video at 720p--as wide as possible. EDIT. I now see there is a 12-24 Tokina f/4 for $350 on CL
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 04, 2013, 10:06:47 PM
its getting boring to read posts about 18-55 STM here. we know it has a problem, and only one developer tries to fix it. I wish I'm capable of fixing it but I'm not. if you're not able to shot sth ML & 18-55 then try to shoot without 18-55 STM. I don't have the lens I've bought the camera with 22mm f/2 kit and works fine for me. even if I want to use 18 mm I connect my old 18-55 IS II with ef/ef-s to ef-m adapter and works just fine.
@maxotics, if you'd like to spend a few more dollars, I recommend you to use 12-24 sigma for canon, it also supports full-frame usage.
I´m just trying to help 1% to find the bug, i know this is alpha software and there will be bugs, im willing to deal with the workaround in order to use the other features, my adaptor is coming. Thanks for your patience.
Quote from: maxotics on September 04, 2013, 10:42:21 PM
@zuzukasuma Thanks for the suggestions. I have a Sigma 10-20mm that I use with the EF Adapter. It works very well. However, I have it on a 50D and would like a setup for each camera. I would think the Canon 10-20 lens made for the EOS-M would be the best route, but that's $400 and now I'm wondering if I should just wait for the BMPCC if I'm going to start throwing that kind of money around :) I'm in a real pickle. On CL I can see a 17mm/3.4 for $150, or a 15mm/2.8 for $450. Is it worth it? Those lenses good for all Canons. Maybe just get some sort of way to steady the 22mm in crop mode. Or maybe a Sigma 17-70/2.8? Whoa is me :( What other suggestions do you have? What I want is EOS-M, small enough to fit in a fanny pack, where I can go into crop-mode and take what I think is exceptional RAW video at 720p--as wide as possible.
If you are in to video you must look at Bower/Rokinon/Samyang (they all are the same brand) manual lenses, they are great and cheap. If you want to use them on the EOS M you have to enable the custom operation > others menu > option 7 > Release shutter with out lens in order to use manual lenses.
The 24mm f1.4 is around 500$ but not that wide on crop sensors.
Then you have the 14mm f2.8 for 300 or 330$ on some places, quite a nice wide on a crop sensor.
If you want to go the ultra wide route then go for the 8mm f3.5! Its around 215 - 250$.
@tetsu
I've read the 8mm distorts in crop mode. As for the others, I agree with you, the optics are fine. I am a Rokinon 85mm. However, the price difference between those and Canons are sometimes not worth losing auto focus (nice to have). If I went that route, and I'm tempted, I'd see how low the 15mm/2.8 canon guy would go. He's asking $450.
:)
@gary2013 A guy on DPreview said he got one from Henry's in Canada. Henry's Online it say $400, so that is probably the way to go. If that's Canadian dollars even a bit cheaper.
:)
@maxotics,
its logical to buy this lens as soon as it's on the market
http://petapixel.com/2013/08/14/review-can-the-canon-ef-m-11-22mm-revive-the-eos-m-system/
seems to have distortion problems too but definitely worth to try.
@Canon eos m
do you have new cr2hdr.exe from DUAL ISO page? it seems to work fine, if you don't, this works fine https://www.transferbigfiles.com/9114e79a-8d7a-4910-83c7-3c2ceea08c23/B4THtf_L9lqWULe0XrnLWQ2
and !!! @gary2013, if you have rights to post your problems here, I have my rights too, and your message insulting & offending my post (!)
:)
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 04, 2013, 11:31:47 PM
The forum is to help dev's , like 1%, test and fix problems for "ML". You say you are bored reading about a legitimate problem with an M lens. As I said, then don't read those posts. You are wrong with all your talk about other lenses and posting anything you want, which has nothing to do with ML, testing and fixing problems.Use email or PM outside this forum for other discussions off topic. This is the second day now this has happened. How many posts have you made so far in total to help ML??
I am sorry you feel insulted. That is you problem you brought on to yourself. I was not trying to insult you. Start showing some respect to 1% and the rest of us on here working hard at making ML good for the M camera and everyone around the world that like using ML on the M.
if I post 3 questions like you in separate posts, I'd have 150 posts now, I'm trying to get the best out of M but its a cheap-o camera with limited hardware. its not a rock-n-roll star like 5D.III, has capabilities but still sucks in some aspects. if there is a real problem with the EF-M 18-55 STM lens why only 2-3 people complaining about it? maybe your lenses are defective (yeah, have you ever thought about it!?).
I'm trying to be as clear as possible to ask my questions and post my problems here. unlike you not posting over and over and over again. learn to use modify button.
Hi Guys, this stuff if very frustrating and the ML forum, in all it's chaos, certainly doesn't put me in a more patient mood ;) Let's give each other some room to vent once in a while. I've said stuff I didn't want to say either.
Looks like I may be having problems similar to the lens issues you are discussing. I put on the EF adapter, then the 10-20mm Sigma, went out, and it wouldn't shoot RAW, maybe one second. Also, the aperture was locked to the shutter speed. I couldn't get it working. Maybe it has something to do with changing lenses?
So I came back, put 1%'s new "EOSMFullbackADTGui" build on a new 32GB card (which I wanted to do anyway) but that didn't fix it, indeed, the camera became crazier. All these messages "modules already loaded". The ML screen comes up, but the modules don't show they're loaded, though I could make changes to video ML. I disabled autoboot. Tried again old card. Anyway, camera is not working in ML mode anymore.
Can someone give me a fool-proof method to get camera back? Or any ideas? Thanks!
:)
Extra files in modules folder like dis/en... Module system probably changed in between.
BTW the C&R bin does have problems.. its just for testing whether that was the prob with the lens.
The camera also dislikes one of my EF to nikon adapters, it says upgrade lens firmware.
Please stop the arguing. Help the devs in anyway you can and keep the posting to the subject of this post i.e. EOS M. Other subjects can be discussed in General Chat.
If you want to argue about something then do it off the board!
I've been trying to use the mlv_rec module. I always get a file creation error and then it fills the buffer but doesn't write to the card. Does the mlv module work?
Although I mucked up my 50D a few days ago, I haven't changed the ML on my EOS-M for some time. So I think, either the lens change, or some key combination, corrupted it. I then did as Garry suggested. 1. format on PC, 2 format on camera, then 1st ML stuff onto card, eos util, then 2nd part. I tried 1%s stuff but had same problem.
1% Again, is there a place that spells this out a bit more. A lot of what you say is in short-hand and I don't understand. What was the purpose of your latest build? Why is it called "[EOSM]FullbackADTGui" Should I try again with it, only copy some modules?
Quote from: nick.p on September 05, 2013, 01:01:35 AMI've been trying to use the mlv_rec module.
What is mlv_rec? It wasn't included in 1%'s recent [EOSM]FullbackADTGui package. While I'm on the subject, what is adtg_gui?
Quote from: nick.p on September 05, 2013, 01:01:35 AM
I've been trying to use the mlv_rec module. I always get a file creation error and then it fills the buffer but doesn't write to the card. Does the mlv module work?
not everything for EOS M, its only running on 50D and 5D Mark II now, its RAW 2.0 video format.
@AnthonyEngelken, its been out for EOS M ML development for some time, detailed info here -> http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/ADTG
in addition, I'm having sensor breakdown, or something else on my EOS M with fps override even at 14fps.
(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2802/wubu.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/wubu.jpg/)
First of all, thank-you for this firmware. It really is pretty amazing. Just a question - I've looked around, but been unable to find an answer. It seems now that I've loaded the ML firmware, my camera has a REALLY strong affinity towards larger apertures. It's virtually impossible to get it to stop down below F3.2. It will, but almost never. The used to be able to guess pretty much exactly what aperture the camera would choose in P mode - but now, it's almost impossible to get it away from the large apertures. Anyone else having similar issues?
Thanks again to all.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 05, 2013, 01:58:40 AM
not everything for EOS M, its only running on 50D and 5D Mark II now, its RAW 2.0 video format.
That makes more sense now. I was compiling the source and it was included by default.
double post :(
Quote from: eosm1986 on September 05, 2013, 02:02:55 AM
...Anyone else having similar issues?..
I had those issues then I've used lens twist method with fixed depth-of-field or just Av mode
@nick.p, I think %1 is trying to find registers for SD card controllers on MLV_REC.mo, you can help with it. thread is here -> http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7122.new#new
I recorded with it, seems to work. For that error just press play, fps override sometimes misses mode changes.
Quote from: 1% on September 05, 2013, 02:18:12 AM
I recorded with it, seems to work. For that error just press play, fps override sometimes misses mode changes.
uh, I thought its a hardware issue, I'm always getting rid of it by play-half shutter, thanks.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 05, 2013, 02:12:25 AM
I had those issues then I've used lens twist method with fixed depth-of-field or just Av mode
Lens twist seems to fix the aperture, which is exactly opposite of what I want to do. Do you mean "When" you used lens twist? Is there a way to avoid the "sticky" aperture - where it prefers the wide open? Thanks!
Since some commit the mode changes are sometimes missed and this happens, I noticed it on 6D too but there you get 1/2 a screen, go back to zoom mode and the FPS is right, lol.. but I finally looked at timer B again and got 48FPS in crop mode, then my battery died so I'm waiting to see if its nice or even possible to record.
:)
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 05, 2013, 03:55:36 AM
1%
When the camera doesn't take pics with the 18-55, I can go to modules menu, press load all modules, shut the camera off, turn the camera back on and then it takes pics. If I then shut the camera off and then back on, the camera goes back to not taking pics. I can keep repeating this cycle. I don't know if you can find anything helpful about that cycle to fix the problem.
Gary
When you load all modules then power off are you waiting for the SD light to flash once then powering up or powering up before that light has flashed?
If you power back up after that light has flashed it still wont shoot. I think that final write closes something or resets something that brings back the lens bug. If you power off before that light flashes and back on then it will shoot.
Crazy bug!! Its the only one that for me is holding ML back a little as I only have the 18-55mm ef-m. I still use it but its a real PITA doing the power cycle every time I want to use it.
@1% am I right in thinking you dont have the EOS M to work with? Not criticizing. Just curious. If you dont then hats off to you!
@gary2013:
had not much time for photo and video the last days... last time i tried everything worked fine. but there were also some people having problems with current ml versions on the 650d, because the dot positions changed. maybe they changed the way how the crop offset is calculated. try this dot data file:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/j727o0iaho4i3vd/EOSM.txt
Just pondering stuff, is it possible to boost fps on the liveview to 60fps instead of it being 30fps? I only ask cuz i just noticed it jump to 60fps for a second or two after i did something, possibly changed menu or something.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 04, 2013, 11:05:08 PM
@Canon eos m
do you have new cr2hdr.exe from DUAL ISO page? it seems to work fine, if you don't, this works fine https://www.transferbigfiles.com/9114e79a-8d7a-4910-83c7-3c2ceea08c23/B4THtf_L9lqWULe0XrnLWQ2
Hi, I did download the cr2hdr.exe from the link but maybe it is some problem with my workflow. Don't know what I am doing wrong? Copied the cr2hdr.exe from the link; copied the dcraw 9.19 version; copied the exiftool - all in the same folder. But do not see the conversion. The cr2hdr.exe starts out but then the screen is gone without any conversion.
Make sure all programs are unblocked on windows.
I have the EOSM but I don't have the kit lens. Reverse engineering a camera isn't so simple though. If you don't believe me, try it.
I can only imagine. Its folk like you that are a godsend to everyone else. As far as im concerned you are an amazing human being.
Thanks for everything you have done so far.
The more I think about, the more I believe my EOS-M ML getting corrupted happened when I changed the 22mm for the EF Adapter with Sigma 10-20. I can see the red light blink, even when camera is off, when I do that. So the circuitry is doing something. Also remember trying to put M43rd adapter on it. Maybe I brushed a contact in the wrong way. I'll see if I can replicate.
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 05, 2013, 03:02:55 PM
Hi, I did download the cr2hdr.exe from the link but maybe it is some problem with my workflow. Don't know what I am doing wrong? Copied the cr2hdr.exe from the link; copied the dcraw 9.19 version; copied the exiftool - all in the same folder. But do not see the conversion. The cr2hdr.exe starts out but then the screen is gone without any conversion.
uh, make sure you have administrator rights to use all the programs, sometimes my windows asks for file security (or unknown program source) but works fine. I recommend you to use the DUAL prefix for dual iso shots, it makes life easier with cr2hdr.exe.
@%1, are you considering of running cr2hdr.exe multi threaded? because I'm using 2 virtual machines with my base system. saves lot of time when processing them.
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/9384/4ymt.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/801/4ymt.jpg/)
(1st and 2nd horizontal windows are virtual machines, provided by vmware workstation, windows 7 pro virtual, I'm using "unity" expansion, makes easier to use other machines side by side)
Quote from: maxotics on September 05, 2013, 03:50:18 PM
The more I think about, the more I believe my EOS-M ML getting corrupted happened when I changed the 22mm for the EF Adapter with Sigma 10-20. I can see the red light blink, even when camera is off, when I do that. So the circuitry is doing something. Also remember trying to put M43rd adapter on it. Maybe I brushed a contact in the wrong way. I'll see if I can replicate.
same thing happening on my camera since the 1st day. when I connect the lens (even camera is off) it checks the lens then turn off. yours the same?
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 05, 2013, 04:18:25 PM
uh, make sure you have administrator rights to use all the programs, sometimes my windows asks for file security (or unknown program source) but works fine. I recommend you to use the DUAL prefix for dual iso shots, it makes life easier with cr2hdr.exe.
The cr2hdr.exe version works fine to convert dual iso files from teh 5D Mark III but does not work with the Canon EOS M. I copied the files to the root directory but no success.
QuoteI can see the red light blink, even when camera is off, when I do that.
All lenses do this.
I'm thinking any corruption would be from wrong modules/sym. They load at startup now by default so if your modules folder is messed up it will freeze on bootup and then next time you get the camera wasn't shut down properly... next time freeze again, etc.
If you have a dual file you can't convert, post it.
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 05, 2013, 04:25:35 PM
The cr2hdr.exe version works fine to convert dual iso files from teh 5D Mark III but does not work with the Canon EOS M. I copied the files to the root directory but no success.
The command prompt screen comes and goes quickly therefore I cannot see the error. But was something to do with blending, etc.
Edit: Finally managed to capture the error with the burst mode on my 5D Mark III.
"Interlacing method not supported"
"ISO blending didn't work"
So I guess you see the stripes in the photo? Maybe using the older version that has 4 lines? try running it in a cmd window and look at the pattern. its going to be like dBBd or something like that.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 05, 2013, 04:23:49 PM
same thing happening on my camera since the 1st day. when I connect the lens (even camera is off) it checks the lens then turn off. yours the same?
I'm running a new card on the EOS-M, went through Gary's steps, but the camera is still very flaky. I can't change the ISO, the screen goes weird in only showing that setting over the LiveView. I can't get to shutter or fstop, can only change via EV. The * button is the same as the left click on the wheel. Anyway @1%, I can't see how I have weird things in the folder since I'm using the same load from a few weeks ago. Files I put on the card first, I then do the CardUtility, the add the second set of files. Nothing new. I've done "clear all settings" a few times in the EOS-M.
Can you give me a fool-proof way of bringing the camera back to where it was a couple of weeks ago? Once that's working, I can experiment with some lens changing procedures to see where the corruption stems from. Perhaps you could create another binary download like your ADTKGui thing that you believe the most stable?
:)
:)
:)
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 05, 2013, 04:18:25 PM
(1st and 2nd horizontal windows are virtual machines, provided by vmware workstation, windows 7 pro virtual, I'm using "unity" expansion, makes easier to use other machines side by side)
Zuzu, are you converting EOS M dual ISO raw files or from another camera? I haven't had success with mine running in wine (windows emulator for *nix, mac in my case). I'm asking because my ISO pattern readout is as follows:
ISO pattern : dBdB RGGB
My resolutions are also slightly off...
here is the whole output:
Input file : DUAL9990.CR2
Full size : 5280 x 3528
Active area : 5208 x 3476
White level : 14798
Black borders : 72 left, 52 top
Black level : 1973
ISO pattern : dBdB RGGB
Interlacing method not supported
ISO blending didn't work
i've tried compiling from TL-6D sources and I get the same result.
gcc version 4.7.4 20130613 (release) [ARM/embedded-4_7-branch revision 200083] (GNU Tools for ARM Embedded Processors)
Raw photo decoder "dcraw" v9.19
edit: apologies, the new .exe on the bitbucket makes progress but doesn't quite work. this is probably a wine problem. is there any way to get this working cross platform?
Quote from: gary2013 on September 05, 2013, 05:53:42 PM
Malakai, you are right, I was doing the quick off and on and not realizing it. It happens when you work a lot and late at night. Sorry.
Gary
No worries lol
Quote from: eosm1986 on September 05, 2013, 03:39:14 AM
Lens twist seems to fix the aperture, which is exactly opposite of what I want to do. Do you mean "When" you used lens twist? Is there a way to avoid the "sticky" aperture - where it prefers the wide open? Thanks!
Is there a hard reset of the settings? Or should I reflash the firmware do you think? Or perhaps ML is more sensitive to dust on the lens and is focusing on that?
Thanks!
Moved install instructions to post 1500
QuotedBdB
This is the problem I think. Its doing every other line instead of 2 dark, 2 bright. So these photos are probably fubar unless I can figure something out with the converter. I took a bit to find the flag that gives the correct pattern. I do need to make another build I think since everyone is confused (+ changes).. I would hope you would test dual iso before using it for something serious at least once.
Install is easy.
1. Drop the EOSM fir from the "fullback" (typo, fullpack). Run that from the firmware update menu, when you have success shut down the camera.
2. Pop the card into your computer and make it bootable with EOScard.
3. Place ML files on the card, ie ML folder, autoexec.bin
4. Boot.
You can reset all settings from the canon menu, for ML delete magic.cfg Reflashing the firmware over and over will not help you any.
Quotei've tried compiling from TL-6D sources and I get the same result.
Try to compile the new module too. and use that with the new exe. EOSM just got added to the converter as of 45 minutes ago.
QuoteI can't see how I have weird things in the folder since I'm using the same load from a few weeks ago.
Last couple of days the module system changed again from opt out to opt in. So you would have had to delete the whole module folder and re create it to keep out any .dis .en types of files. Also as above, try resetting all canon settings from the menu and see if that helps any because I can't reproduce any inability to change stuff, getting stuck on auto, etc. The copy & restart bin did lose control of the shutter for some reason tho.
Quote from: 1% on September 05, 2013, 10:41:29 PM
Its doing every other line instead of 2 dark, 2 bright.
Gimme, gimme.
Here is one that was sent to me... the 4 on 4 off I deleted.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xxoxnqnjbonmul1/IMG_0895.CR2?m
Quote@%1, are you considering of running cr2hdr.exe multi threaded?
I wish, it takes forever on my machine running native too.
Quote from: 1% on September 05, 2013, 10:41:29 PM
Install is easy.
1. Drop the EOSM fir from the "fullback" (typo, fullpack). Run that from the firmware update menu, when you have success shut down the camera.
Try to compile the new module too. and use that with the new exe. EOSM just got added to the converter as of 45 minutes ago.
Last couple of days the module system changed again from opt out to opt in. So you would have had to delete the whole module folder and re create it to keep out any .dis .en types of files. Also as above, try resetting all canon settings from the menu and see if that helps any because I can't reproduce any inability to change stuff, getting stuck on auto, etc. The copy & restart bin did lose control of the shutter for some reason tho.
Sorry 1%, you're dealing with a 52-year old here :)
When you say fullback you mean this?
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip
I see EOSM-copy has a .fir file and autoexec.bin, are the files from the fullback supposed to be replaced with these?
Sorry, everything from "Try to compile..." I don't understand. I can forget for now, think it best I/we just have steps to bring camera to where you expect it to be from install/re-install.
I know you're handling two different problems now, sorry! I'm modifying my post above. Can you review, tell me what I should change? THANKS!!!!
INSTALL AND RE-INSTALL OF EOS-M CAMERAS
Thank you 1%, Gary, and others for your help.
STEPS TO REMOVE ML FROM EOS-M
MAKE SURE MANUAL MODE ON...
1. Turn camera on in Photo mode (middle button top dial)
2. Press "Mode" box on touch screen, top, left
3. Press wheel left until you get to 'M' box (manual)
4. MENU, then First Wrench, then Format Card
Don't tap screen to format card (keeping ML). Select and press OK
5. Goto last wrench, Update Firmware, pick latest version, SET (now that card's been formatted, it has no ML so camera will see nothing, and look to revert to factory boot)
6. GREEN ML screen should come up about BOOKDISK flag
7. Rotate dial to Movie mode
8. WHITE ML screen will now say "BOOTDISK flag is DISABLED"
9. Turn Camera Off
10. Format card in computer.
11. Format card in camera.
EOS-M SHOULD BE AS IT CAME FROM FACTORY
RE-INSTALL ML (1% Build)
1. Get latest EOS-M install. Currently: http://ml.bot-fly.com/ (Thanks Jerrykil)
2. Drop the EOSM fir from the zip file
3. Copy autoexec.bin from zip file to card.
4. Copy ML folder to card
5. Camera in 'M' mode, last wrench, update firmware
6. When you have success shut down the camera.
7. Pop the card into your computer and make it bootable with EOScard.
8. Put card back in camera, and start
Other issues
o. Shutter-bug Issue with 18-55mm M STM lens
Using the 18-55 kit lens for video can stop working for photos. There are two workarounds: 1.) Power up, rotate lens to break connection with camera and rotate back. 2.) Power on the camera then power it back off and then back on before the SD light flashes. You get about a second, maybe two to do this.
o. ISO sometimes gets stuck. Battery pull fixes.
Keep In Mind
o. When taking out the memory card, watch that your other hand, holding the camera, isn't hitting the power on/off switch. Possible corruption issues if you remove/insert card during power on/off cycle.
o. The camera won't go into "Crop Mode" unless the top dial in on Movie mode.
This page URL: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg73630#msg73630
It's 4 dark, 4 bright...
(or "every other line" means that in English?)
The pattern says dBdB when opened... thats where I got that from.
Well, that groups pixels by 4, so it can't detect stuff that repeat every 8 lines. I thought you zoomed in.
It looked like every other line when I zoomed in but I didn't count. :(
Quote from: maxotics on September 05, 2013, 11:02:52 PM
KNOWN ISSUES THAT MY REQUIRE RE-INSTALL
o. Shutter-bug Issue with 18-55mm M STM lens
o. Potential ML corruption from changing lenses.
This page URL: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg73630#msg73630
You mean this can fix the 18-55 efm bug!!?
Quote from: Malakai on September 05, 2013, 11:18:06 PM
You mean this can fix the 18-55 efm bug!!?
Thanks, went up and made clearer I hope. I only know what I read about that bug. I only have the potential lens-change issue. Even there, not sure what's up.
thanks for the replies 1% and a1ex. Really impressive work. I skimmed the white paper on the dual_iso capture and I'm very excited to try for myself! Thanks again
the tragic-lantern sources are broken for me as of this afternoon:
make -C ../modules/raw_rec
[ README ] module_strings.h
[ CC ] raw_rec.o
In file included from ../../src/module.h:276:0,
from raw_rec.c:58:
./module_strings.h:8:34: warning: missing terminating " character [enabled by default]
./module_strings.h:9:81: warning: missing terminating " character [enabled by default]
./module_strings.h:12:0: error: unterminated argument list invoking macro "MODULE_STRING"
./module_strings.h:8:5: error: 'MODULE_STRING' undeclared here (not in a function)
In file included from ../../src/compiler.h:59:0,
from ../../src/dryos.h:34,
from raw_rec.c:59:
../../src/arm-mcr.h:29:1: error: expected '}' before 'asm'
make[1]: *** [raw_rec.o] Error 1
make: *** [raw_rec] Error 2
incase you guys need another sample file, here is my shameless promotion of my photography: http://www.bot-fly.com/DUAL_headphones.CR2
this is from dual_iso module compiled yesterday sometime
EDIT: it works! WOOOHOOO:
██ [ cr2hdr-1 ] [ 17:35:43 ]
██ wine cr2hdr.exe DUAL0005.CR2
Input file : DUAL0005.CR2
Full size : 5280 x 3528
Active area : 5208 x 3476
White level : 12400
Black borders : 72 left, 52 top
Black level : 1991
ISO pattern : dBBd RGGB
Noise levels : 8.96 12.51 12.20 9.09 (14-bit)
Estimating ISO difference...
ISO difference : 2.07 EV (419)
Black delta : -1.37
Interpolation : mean23-chroma5x5-alias
Dynamic range : 10.18 (+) 9.70 => 11.77 EV (in theory)
Matching brightness...
Looking for hot/cold pixels...
Full-res reconstruction...
ISO overlap : 5.1 EV (approx)
Half-res blending...
Chroma filtering...
Building alias map...
Filtering alias map...
Smoothing alias map...
Noise level : 8.76 (16-bit)
Dynamic range : 12.21 EV (cooked)
Black adjust : -10
Output file : DUAL0005.DNG
File not found.
Not sure about the last line, but it looks like the new module did it!
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 05, 2013, 11:39:06 PM
Maz,
I don't know why you press the Play button and then the Menu button in a couple of your steps. I never heard of having to press the Play button first.
Gary
I'm just writing down what I figure out! Menu would often start RAW recording for me. I see with the new build Menu goes into Menu! If I'm missing any documentation please point me to where! I'm not TRYING to sound like I don't know what I'm doing ;) You've been a great help! Please tell me how I can improve that page below so all the knuckleheads like me have a reference point. THANKS!
Quote from: maxotics on September 05, 2013, 11:02:52 PM
INSTALL AND RE-INSTALL OF EOS-M CAMERAS
Thank you 1%, Gary, and others for your help.
STEPS TO REMOVE ML FROM EOS-M
MAKE SURE MANUAL MODE ON...
1. Turn camera on in Photo mode (middle button top dial)
2. Press "Mode" box on touch screen, top, left
3. Press wheel left until you get to 'M' box (manual)
CLEAR SETTINGS...
4. Press MENU key (if old version of ML, press Play first)
5. Move to last wrench on top menu
6. Go to last wrench on right.
7. Scroll down to "Clear all settings" SET
REMOVE ML AUTOBOOT ...
8. Repease Step 2,3; that is, Go back to 'M' Manual mode because it might have changed to default 'CA'
9. MENU, then First Wrench, then Format Card (steps in shorthand now)
10. Then Last wrench, Update Firmware, pick latest viersion, SET (now that card's been formatted, it has no ML so camera will see nothing, and look to revert to factory boot)
11. GREEN ML screen should come up about BOOKDISK flag
12. Rotate dial to Movie mode
13. WHITE ML screen will now say "BOOTDISK flag is DISABLED"
14. Turn Camera Off
15. Format card in computer, ML files will still be on card
16. Turn Camera ON
EOS-M SHOULD BE AS IT CAME FROM FACTORY
RE-INSTALL ML (1% Build)
1. Get latest EOS-M install. Currently: https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/[EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip
2. Drop the EOSM fir from the zip file
3. Copy autoexec.bin from zip file to card.
4. Copy ML folder to card
5. Camera in 'M' mode, last wrench, update firmware
6. When you have success shut down the camera.
7. Pop the card into your computer and make it bootable with EOScard.
8. Put card back in camera, and start
SOME POTENTIAL ISSUES THAT MAY CORRUPT ML, THEREBY NEEDING A RE-INSTALL. These may be fixed by the time you read this!
o. Shutter-bug Issue with 18-55mm M STM lens
o. Potential ML corruption from changing lenses.
Stuff To Remember
o. The camera won't go into "Crop Mode" unless the top dial in on Movie mode.
This page URL: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg73630#msg73630
Can confirm 18-55mm efm shutter bug remains after trying this.
Using the cr2hdr.exe posted a couple days ago:
(http://www.bot-fly.com/tree_comparison.jpg)
not the greatest example, but its working!
Thanks Malakai. I don't have that lens or problem. Can you point me to the best reference page, or tell me what the work-around is for now and I'll put it in that page as a work-around? Or is there none? Sorry, haven't read those posts deeply as I have problems of my own :) That said, the new stuff 1% has coded is great! The red record button now records and menu goes to menu and it just looks cleaner, better. I was SO CLOSE to quitting today you have no idea!
QuoteI see with the new build Menu goes into Menu! If I'm missing any documentation please point me to where!
Menu records raw in photo mode (rec doesn't work there), its a setting in the raw module, you can pick.
There are two work arounds, power up, rotate lens to break connection with camera and rotate back. Personally I wouldnt dream of doing this. Risks of shorting etc. Alternatively, power on the camera then power it back off and then back on before the SD light flashes. You get about a second, maybe two to do this.
Quote from: 1% on September 05, 2013, 11:59:27 PM
Menu records raw in photo mode (rec doesn't work there), its a setting in the raw module, you can pick.
I like what you picked :)
@Gary @Malakai. I've put in something about the 18-55mm lens above. Gary, from some of your posts I see you may have had other lens change issues. If so, can you explain their status, and workaround, if you need one, and I'll put above?
I don't know why my ML got corrupted. It may have to do with the lens issue. I want to be on the lookout for things that corrupt my ML in the future, if it is indeed related to the lens issue, so i/we can give better feedback to 1%. It doesn't sound like he has the lens so we have to be very specific about what we're experiencing.
Quote from: maxotics on September 06, 2013, 12:22:22 AM
Gary, from some of your posts I see you may have had other lens change issues. If so, can you explain their status, and workaround, if you need one, and I'll put above?
Max, can you be more specific. I do not recall any. Just the usual 18-55 issue of no pics and the two workarounds of quick off/on and untwist twist. I have had some aperture display settings hang at times, but not recently. And the ISO setting getting stuck to only Auto. Battery pull fixed it.
gary
Quote from: gary2013 on September 06, 2013, 12:32:29 AM
Max, can you be more specific. I do not recall any. Just the usual 18-55 issue of no pics and the two workarounds of quick off/on and untwist twist. I have had some aperture display settings hang at times, but not recently. And the ISO setting getting stuck to only Auto. Battery pull fixed it.
gary
Thanks Gary. Nothing specific. Again, don't understand the lens issue and some of posts above so wanted to make sure I know all the current problems. Please review my page, if you have time, and give other edits. Thanks!
It looks like the pink dot issue is back for me. My PDR isn't working. Tried other files Mixer2 put up for you. Is PDR working for your crop-mode RAW files?
:)
The reason to record in photo mode:
quality jpg, multi shot NR on... ~100MB shoot_malloc... so more frames.
Quote from: 1% on September 06, 2013, 01:39:20 AM
The reason to record in photo mode:
quality jpg, multi shot NR on... ~100MB shoot_malloc... so more frames.
I'm sorry 1%, totally lost. record video? Or you just mean we should take photos too?
:)
:)
Quote from: maxotics on September 06, 2013, 01:47:27 AM
I'm sorry 1%, totally lost. record video? Or you just mean we should take photos too?
to record RAW video with more frames (on slow SD cards or even on fast SD cards) dial in to M mode on photo, switch to JPG, press MENU, on the 4th photo options from the left, there is "High ISO speed NR" click it, choose "multishot noise reduce" click set 2 times and try to record RAW video with greater RAM available.
detailed explanation;
(http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/7630/tyoi.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/tyoi.png/)
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/8191/pof5.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/pof5.png/)
(http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5782/aatr.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/23/aatr.png/)
then you're able to...
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/3266/4e46.png) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/4e46.png/)
a1ex,
ur latest experimental commit to TL-6D modules/readme2modulestrings.py broke my build. my module_strings.h's come out all weird like this:
MODULE_STRINGS_START()
MODULE_STRING("Name", "raw_rec")
MODULE_STRING("Authors", "g3gg0, a1ex")
MODULE_STRING("License", "GPL")
MODULE_STRING("Summary", "Records 14-bit RAW video")
MODULE_STRING("Description",
)
MODULE_STRING("Last update", "usage: date [-jnu] [-d dst] [-r seconds] [-t west] [-v[+|-]val[ymwdHMS]] ...
[-f fmt date | [[[mm]dd]HH]MM[[cc]yy][.ss]] [+format] (16d145d6507e)")
MODULE_STRING("Build date", "2013-09-06 03:58:14 UTC")
MODULE_STRING("Build user", "[email protected]")
MODULE_STRINGS_END()
Probably parsing date wrong...i'm on mac
since these were just problems with Darwin's 'date' and the lack of rst2html for mac, i was able to iron out some of the issues by modifying these two lines in modules/readme2modulestrings.py
after installing docutils (http://docutils.sourceforge.net) line 54:
txt=run('cat README.rst | grep -v -E "^:([^:])+:([^:])+$" | /usr/local/share/python/rst2html.py --no-xml-declaration | python ../html2text.py -b 59')
and then the last_change_date variable on line 75:
last_change_date = run("date -ujf '%Y-%m-%d %H:%M:%S %z' \"`hg log . -l 1 --template '{date|isodate}'`\" '+%Y-%m-%d %H:%M:%S %z'")
this ran mac friendly until bolt_rec threw some misc stuff about module_string.h at me that i didn't quite get.
hope this helps
thanks for all the hard work
@zuzukasuma THANKS SO MUCH for your detailed explanation with screen shots.
I tried what you said but can't see any difference between RAW videos shot the normal way and that way. I also noticed that when I go into video mode, and come back to photo mode "High Speed ISO" is re-set back to standard.
Am I supposed to do anything different in post. Again, thanks for your instructions.
Yea, it resets every time you leave photo mode and I'd toggle raw video on/off when changing modes so the indicators are correct... ie histogram,etc.
The readme things I found cool... but then modules went up by a few KB :(
Quote from: 1% on September 06, 2013, 03:49:23 PM
Yea, it resets every time you leave photo mode and I'd toggle raw video on/off when changing modes so the indicators are correct... ie histogram,etc.
I see...Changed RAW shooting record to 'MENU' key (so I can shoot RAW in photo mode). Left RAW shooting on in movie mode. Went into Photo mode, changed ISO, then pressed MENU and recorded RAW. Went back to check ISO setting and was still in multi-shot. Ideas? Thanks!
BTW Gary, I'm using hit 'play' first to go into Canon Menu again (is there another way) ;)
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 06, 2013, 06:12:58 AMTo record RAW video with more frames (on slow SD cards or even on fast SD cards) dial in to M mode on photo, switch to JPG, press MENU, on the 4th photo options from the left, there is "High ISO speed NR" click it, choose "multishot noise reduce" click set 2 times and try to record RAW video with greater RAM available.
Whoa... More of these memory hacks, please. I just tried this process out and was able to capture 28 frames at 2.5k (2.39) in crop mode. I really feel like it's not going to be long before a revelation permits shooting 2k scope continuous in 24fps. I'm excited!
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on September 06, 2013, 08:16:08 PM
Whoa... More of these memory hacks, please. I just tried this process out and was able to capture 28 frames at 2.5k (2.39) in crop mode. I really feel like it's not going to be long before a revelation permits shooting 2k scope continuous in 24p. I'm excited!
Maybe I don't have the latest module or something? Anyway, Anthony, can you get close to continuous by lowering your frame rate?
Quote from: maxotics on September 06, 2013, 08:25:31 PMMaybe I don't have the latest module or something? Anyway, Anthony, can you get close to continuous by lowering your frame rate?
I'm on 1%'s Fullback ADT GUI build. Just tested, and at 2k scope 24fps I can capture 31 frames. If I reduce that to 12fps, capture is indefinitely continuous.
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on September 06, 2013, 08:33:29 PM
Just tested, and at 2k scope 24fps I can capture 31 frames. If I reduce that to 12fps, capture is indefinitely continuous.
WOW! So now I'm a little bit more anxious to get it working on my camera. Did you install any special module to get that working. (sorry, see you already said. Yes, that's what I have). I followed the procedures above but my RAW files look the same. What resolution did you pick? Aspect ratio?
Quote from: maxotics on September 06, 2013, 08:35:18 PMWOW! So now I'm a little bit more anxious to get it working on my camera. Did you install any special module to get that working. I followed the procedures above but my RAW files look the same. What resolution did you pick? Aspect ratio?
No special modules, just what's included in 1%'s Fulback ADT GUI package. 2048x856 2.39 aspect, crop mode via 5x magnifying glass. I wish the 2.7x crop mode from the menu worked in photo mode, but as 1% explained earlier, that's just a built-in function they enabled.
Thanks Anthony! I didn't see that explanation above. Didn't realize I had to be in crop mode. Anyway, did that, and the magnifying glass, can barely wait for it to copy to PC : ) :) :) WOWZA WOWZA WOZA 2048x856 12fps!
Now if only PDR would start working again. Here is a still (sorry nothing fancy) from a RAW video shot at 2048x856 2.39 ratio at 12 fps continuous. THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP ANTHONY! (and of course we owe everything to 1%)
(http://maxotics.com/photos/ML_2048x856.jpg)
Quote from: maxotics on September 06, 2013, 08:45:24 PMDidn't realize I had to be in crop mode.
The reason crop mode is required for the higher resolutions is because the line-skipped capture takes up most of the sensor. More elbow room in 1:1 mode. Rad image, a question though without digging through the forum if you know right off the cuff: What causes the pink dots?
I didn't read it very closely. Since they don't appear on my 50d, assume they're the pixels that Canon sets aside to do that dual focus thing (STM?), since mirror-less cameras are slow to focus. I believe the t4i/t5i have a similar problem. I believe PDR goes to each pixel and takes one next to it, or makes it transparent, don't know. Did you do your video on an EOS-M. Just wondering why you haven't wondered about the pink dots.
Quote from: maxotics on September 06, 2013, 09:08:33 PMJust wondering why you haven't wondered about the pink dots.
I've only just experimented, haven't taken any RAW footage through post, so I haven't had to deal with the pink dots yet. Anything I've done for real with this camera has been in h264.
Quote from: maxotics on September 06, 2013, 01:34:57 PM
@zuzukasuma THANKS SO MUCH for your detailed explanation with screen shots.
I tried what you said but can't see any difference between RAW videos shot the normal way and that way. I also noticed that when I go into video mode, and come back to photo mode "High Speed ISO" is re-set back to standard.
Am I supposed to do anything different in post. Again, thanks for your instructions.
whats your SD card? I'm using Sandisk Extreme 45MB/s editions and works fine with them, best price/performance cards for RAW video
yeah, it happens, and camera sticks at JPG, you can not change to RAW, if you don't change multishot NR mode to normal.
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on September 06, 2013, 08:16:08 PM
Whoa... More of these memory hacks, please. I just tried this process out and was able to capture 28 frames at 2.5k (2.39) in crop mode. I really feel like it's not going to be long before a revelation permits shooting 2k scope continuous in 24fps. I'm excited!
well, you can always resize footage if you're processing it with After Effects, it can easily resize to 2,5K without serious quality loss on normal shooting mode, I've tried to resize 2,5k to 4k, results, just amazing. but I think I have to get 50D for that stuff.
this is one of the hacks, another hack is HDR mode hack, which can give the same buffer but unfortunately you loose all the controls over exposure
:)
These are the steps
o. Naturally, you're in 'M'anual mode
1. Set to RAW 2048x, 2.39 and 12 fps (settings Anthony suggested, assume you can try others too)
2. Make sure record is set to 'MENU' As if I have to tell you ;)
3. Go into PHOTO mode (top dial). Go into Canon Menu, photo file format switch to 'L'; that is Jpeg, not RAW for photos
4. On the 4th photo options from the left, there is "High ISO speed NR" click it, choose "multishot noise reduce" (farthest option to right) You will get a message saying it will go back to 'basic' if you change to movie mode, or others, etc. Just click OK
5. Back to screen, hit the touch-screen Zoom box on lower right until it says 5x Zoom. You should now see image in crop mode.
6. Hit MENU and it will start recording RAW at above settings.
I understand the process for removing the pink dots, I'm just wondering why they occur in the first place. A correction to something I said earlier: If I have Multi Shot Noise Reduction enabled, and am in photo mode using the 5x magnifying glass crop mode, I can capture 58-60 frames of 2048/2.39 footage at 24fps. When I said 31 frames earlier, I think MSNR turned itself off after a reboot. 2 1/2 seconds of 2k raw is definitely getting somewhere.
@1% - What's the possibility of replicating whatever happens to memory allocation when MSNR is enabled and creating a dedicated function in video mode that just does that... only more so?
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 06, 2013, 10:32:23 PM
Max, I understand everything after step 2.
Step 0- where? Manual mode in photo mode or video mode top dial?
Step 1- set Raw 2048, 2.39 how and where? If i do that in movie (top dial) in the movie menu raw sub menu, it always goes back to 1728 rez. ?? 12 fps how and where? Using FPS Overide?
Sorry for not understanding. I am a video guy and I never really do any of the photo mode stuff.
Gary
I'm thrilled I'm not the only one needing help around here;) The issue is that the "High ISO" setting reverts if you go into movie mode. So you need to set up how you want RAW recorded in movie mode (that is the MENU button for record), then go into Photo mode, change to High ISO, then record RAW video by pressing MENU in Photo mode. When you go back into movie mode the High ISO setting will revert back to basic on its own. I take it the devs haven't figure out how to keep the High ISO setting to say where it is, in movie mode, or to stop it from reverting when you twist the dial to movie mode. Hope that explains it. Another way of saying it is, once you set High ISO in photo mode it will forget it once you go into Movie mode to change anything.
:)
:)
Forget about video mode for a second, start your camera in photo mode and do the following:
1. Hit MENU, then in the first tab, change image quality to the highest JPG value (L).
2. Go to the the fourth tab and change High ISO speed NR to Multi Shot Noise Reduction (NR).
3. Hit MENU again to return to LiveVew, then hit INFO until there's a magnifying glass in the lower right. Hit that, until it says 5x.
4. Double touch the screen to enter the ML menu. Make whatever adjustments you need to in the Expo tab.
5. Go to the movie tab and single-touch the screen while FPS override is selected to set your frame rate; I like 24/Exact FPS.
6. Single-touch RAW video to enter the menu. I currently have Resolution set to 2048x856 and Aspect ratio set to 2.39:1.
7. In photo mode, the video record button doesn't seem to do anything, so you have to change Rec Key to MENU.
8. Single-touch then double-touch to return to LiveView. Press MENU to begin recording.
You never have to enter video mode for this process, all takes place in photo mode. That may change in the future, but this is how to take advantage of the extended memory allocation MSNR provides.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 06, 2013, 11:38:42 PM
Anthony, thank you. I got it all working as you described. In the 5x crop, I only get about 50 frames and then it stops. I am using your exact settings. When it comes back on without the 5x crop, it records continuous in the normal view.
Besides just for testing purpose, how is this useful being zoomed in so far using 5x crop? Maybe for macro shots but normal stuff like shooting a green screen interview would require the camera to be very far back from the subject to get a useful head to toe shot of a person.
When you leave 5x crop mode, you're shooting resolution automatically drops back down to 1728x434 (maximum), which is why you're able to record continuous that way. The benefit to shooting in crop mode is that pixels on the sensor aren't skipped, and we technically have the whole surface to make use of. The capture pitch is tighter which I assume would make the image sharper, and also reduces/eliminates moire. When you're not in crop mode, the camera skips pixels so more area of the sensor is covered, but as a result it misses information in between.
The zoom is a little annoying in some applications, but won't be an issue when 4 - 5k continuous capture is cracked. I hope the ML team is able to work out some sort of crop mode override that keeps LiveView on the whole sensor with the zoom only happening in the background. Then the capture area could be displayed by the rectangle marker.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 07, 2013, 12:01:27 AMthank you for getting me up to speed on this area.
NP, I just hope I'm not lying to you. This is all just the way I understand it.
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on September 06, 2013, 11:54:20 PM
The benefit to shooting in crop mode is that pixels on the sensor aren't skipped, and we technically have the whole surface to make use of. The capture pitch is tighter which I assume would make the image sharper, and also reduces/eliminates moire. When you're not in crop mode, the camera skips pixels so more area of the sensor is covered, but as a result it misses information in between.
Yes, once you film something that produces moire (usually something with hard vertical/horizontal lines. Shelves, stripes on shirts, siding on a house, etc., you'll see why crop mode is the only real fix. Moire is very difficult, almost impossible to fix in post. I've concluded that wiith the EOS-M, and even my 50D, unless I shoot in crop-mode I risk getting a lot of moire.
About getting this to 24fps, I'm a little skeptical. There's only so much the EOS-M can write to the SD card, about 40MBS.
Quote from: maxotics on September 07, 2013, 12:17:53 AM
Yes, once you film something that produces moire (usually something with hard vertical/horizontal lines. Shelves, stripes on shirts, siding on a house, etc., you'll see why crop mode is the only real fix. Moire is very difficult, almost impossible to fix in post. I've concluded that wiith the EOS-M, and even my 50D, unless I shoot in crop-mode I risk getting a lot of moire.
About getting this to 24fps, I'm a little skeptical. There's only so much the EOS-M can write to the SD card, about 40MBS.
I have my fingers crossed that there's some sort of 100MHz/208MHz clock switch hidden somewhere in the SD controller that's yet to be discovered.
:)
Lower to 12fps.
Quote from: maxotics on September 07, 2013, 12:35:50 AM
Lower to 12fps.
^this, or wait and pray for new discoveries.
:)
You guys are cracking me up! :)
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 07, 2013, 12:43:12 AM
what else can we do while 1% gets that audio headphone output working? 8)
Live a healty and meaningful life?
While you're waiting HBO to call, what do you know about the PDR? I put a message on that board. I've been able to open a DNG from a file that works and a file that doesn't. They do look different.
BTW, I like to use PDR on the RAW files straight (instead of on extracted DNGS). Anyway, don't know how to read/analyze the current DNG and tell PDR where to look for the dot matrix. It seems the config file has 4 lines of matrix points, any insight? Thanks!
:)
I know the topic's pretty well covered, but I just wanted to share; I popped a 95/mbps card into my camera, and there's no noticeable sign of improved performance.
:)
What I've read from some people who seem to really understand this stuff, it isn't possible without more powerful IO circuitry on the camera. Apparently some CF cards have built in IO processors which can relieve the CPU on the camera of some work--why they are much faster. Even at the current speeds, the camera gets hot and the batteries probably experience shorter lives. My guess is that if Canon sent these cameras out with ML a certain amount would fail due to the stress ML puts on the system. I don't think it hurts it if you're careful. And there are few ML users and not the kind who will be surprised when the battery dies in 20 minutes. Keep in mind it didn't take many oil spots on Nikon's D600 sensor for buyers to complain to high heaven. Finally, 1% made a quip about a help module taking up space in the build. Memory and IO is always in short, short supply :)
:)
Hi All:
OK - I am thinking I may know why my camera is having such an affinity towards larger apertures. I thought it might be trying to focus on dust on the lens, etc., - so I bought a cleaning kit to clean that, reseated the lens, no change. I then flashed back to old firmware. Still no change. However, I see a field in the update firmware section that says my lens firmware is 1.8.0. I'm wondering if when I flashed ML, it changed the lens firmware. I guess I'm open to the idea that it *should* be using those larger apertures, but it's just such a big change from before when I flashed ML.
So, I downloaded the current canon firmware - right from website - and flashed it. No change. Behavior still the same.
So what is the most up to date version of lens firmware?
Help!
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 06, 2013, 10:32:23 PM
Max, I understand everything after step 2.
Step 0- where? Manual mode in photo mode or video mode top dial?
Step 1- set Raw 2048, 2.39 how and where? If i do that in movie (top dial) in the movie menu raw sub menu, it always goes back to 1728 rez. ?? 12 fps how and where? Using FPS Overide?
Sorry for not understanding. I am a video guy and I never really do any of the photo mode stuff.
Gary
Quick questions:
I don't get more than 1728X on 5x mode. I do go higher with 10x mag though.
Any way of focus racking on EOS M.
I am on 1%'s latest hack version.
Towards A More Generalized PDR for the EOS-M?
I've been studying this Pink Dot issue. 1% will have to give his take, or someone else who knows more than I, but I believe the RAW files captured by the EOS-M, in video, are not the same RAW files that the camera takes for a photos. There are just too many dots used for focus, edge detection, whatever Canon needs to read from the sensor to focus the lens. I now suspect there is no real fix to the pink dot issue.
I'm going to talk about a 16:9 aspect ratio. The EOS-M sensor has 5,184 x 2,456 pixels. Or, in an aspect ratio of 16:9, 5,184 x 2,903 pixels. Because Canon knows they will down-sample the images to 1920 x 1080p, they have 3,264 pixels wide they can either discard or average down. They can do the same for 1,823 pixels high.
In order to illustrate this I did some graphics. Here's a graphic showing the relative size of the sensor, to the size of the frame it will save as video in 16:9
(http://maxotics.com/images/sensorcompare.jpg)
Do you see any focus dots in that box? No. But they were there in the graphic before I shrunk it down. Here is that file at the same relative size of the sensor. This optical trick demonstrates how Canon can use all these pixels for focus without them ending up as pink dots in their videos.
(http://maxotics.com/images/1280x720FocxPixelsBlownUpToSensorSize.jpg)
And here again, are the pixels, used for focusing, at 100% size on my monitor
(http://maxotics.com/images/FocusDotsAtMonitorResolution.jpg)
And here they are, blown up to 800%
(http://maxotics.com/images/FocusDots800Percent.jpg)
As you can see, on a pixel level, there isn't just one pixel used for focusing. There are clusters of pixels, a few pixels wide.
Again, after the camera down-samples all these pixels in video mode you don't notice them.
My guess is that in photo mode they shoot one of these pixels-used-to-focus frames, focus, then chuck it out and do another frame where each pixel acquires only image data. 1% your thoughts?
If I look at any frame that went through PDR effectively, I can still see many of these focus pixels, especially at any hard edges where colors make abrupt changes. They blend out in any set of 50 pixels, say, that are generally the same color. In short, these RAW movies are made using a large number of focus-debug sensor data from the camera.
Now, I'd rather have a high dynamic range image at 1280x720, with lots of noise/blurred color information, but I believe these essentially heavily masked video frames on the EOS-M, and other similar Canon cameras, will prevent them from reaching the same IQ as the Black Magic cameras.
From what I understand the black magic cameras, because they are reading from the WHOLE sensor, have more room to down-sample their image efficiently. With the EOS-M, to get moire-less footage, you need to use a very SMALL PART of the sensor, 1280x720 pixels to be exact. There are no extra pixels to throw out. Each pixel that is used to focus, and there are many of them in that block, are there, degrading the image.
If all this is true, the Pink Dot remover will never be able to completely remove the residue of focus pixels. And if that's true, a simpler dots/spots average algorithm might be better. (This whole post is the result of my PDR no longer working on my videos. I have a feeling something changed in RAW output from the developer's new work.)
Another benefit of a different PDR is it could potentially post-process the moire issues away from the camera. Moire makes it imperative one use crop mode on the EOS-M, which means you can never get a very good wide angle shot. I think 10mm ( or 16mm x 3) or 48mm effective is the lowest you can go. If someone could "hide" pink dots and fix moire patterns in non-crop mode than the camera's 22mm pancake would make it quit nice.
Anyway, I look forward to the dev's take on this. Maybe the way to go is higher dynamic range h.264 through HDR or the multi-shot ISO feature, which I've been trying out. Has RAW reached it's limit on the EOS-M?
:)
QuoteAs you can see, on a pixel level, there isn't just one pixel used for focusing. There are clusters of pixels, a few pixels wide.
What you see in your example is interpolated bayer pattern, that's why you think it's 'clusters'.
In order to see actual af dots locations, you have to use some soft which gives you apportunity to see actual bayer pattern, Photivo for example.
Then, you average a dozen of these shots to avoid noise, and finally you can get the actual af dots locations. A picture like this: (http://ipic.su/img/img7/fs/kiss_13kb.1378531962.jpg)
What PDR is doing, it applies a smart adaptive interpolation for the af dot pixels.
It does not working for crop modes anymore because of something changed in crop mode centering in latest builds, so we have to change dot data files.
Just for your information.
Quote from: Rewind on September 07, 2013, 07:38:01 AMWhat PDR is doing, it applies a smart adaptive interpolation for the af dot pixels.
If the dots are created by auto fucus, can they be avoided by turning auto focus off?
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on September 07, 2013, 10:52:28 AM
If the dots are created by auto fucus, can they be avoided by turning auto focus off?
Wish it was that simple ))
By the way, guys, while the devs of PDR are AFK, I found a way to help you with the crop mode.
I need you to shoot a bunch of frames (50-100) with the lens cap on, and send me a raw file (better upload it somewhere and give me the link)
Just recently a was able to modify the dot data files to succesfully remove all the dots from 720p mode for my 650D, now i can shoot 60 fps raw )
I figured out how the data in dot data files arranged, so now i can help you too.
Quote from: BernardDigital on August 30, 2013, 09:51:19 PM
Is the intervalolmeter working for everyone else? For me it hangs and freezes up the camera after the countdown gets to zero to start the time-lapse...
Intervalometer is working fine for me. Stop can't be defined but using the MENU button will stop the intervalometer.
Quote from: BernardDigital on August 30, 2013, 09:51:19 PM
Is the intervalolmeter working for everyone else? For me it hangs and freezes up the camera after the countdown gets to zero to start the time-lapse...
Try the power cycle trick before using the intervalometer. Power on the camera then power it off and back on within a second, if the SD light flashes red for a split second then you were too slow. start again. If you did it, try the intervalometer. What lens are you using?
Quote from: Rewind on September 07, 2013, 11:00:48 AM
By the way, guys, while the devs of PDR are AFK, I found a way to help you with the crop mode.
I need you to shoot a bunch of frames (50-100) with the lens cap on, and send me a raw file (better upload it somewhere and give me the link)
I figured out how the data in dot data files arranged, so now i can help you too.
That's awesome Rewind! Thanks for your help. I've updated a zip of about 150 frames, shot as instructed. It's 150 megs. You can download it by going to
www.maxotics.com/photos
Then put this in for a key
EOSMCropPattern20130907.zip
You will then see a download link.
However, before you do that, I would download this file where I tried to get the dot pattern clear, it may be good enough and is small. That file keyname is
EOSMCropPattern20130906.tiff
If that doesn't work, I hope the 150+ dngs above do.
Again, thanks for your help and explanation of the dots. (though again, if you can point me to the explanation of how to read a dot pattern and change the config settings in PDR that would be greatly appreciated!)
EOSMCropPattern20130907.zip — This key does not gives me a link.
Tif is not acceptable, because of interpolation. I need source dngs to see actual bayer pattern.
put in the name without the .zip extension (SORRY!). Thanks! I'll work on getting bayer pattern also...
Here's one I created using a single DNG in Photoshop. BTW, I find shooting, focusing, on some well lit white paper gives clearer dots than the lens cap.
Try this photo key. If it's not good enough, can you tell me why? THANKS!
EOSMCropModeDNG20130907
For those, who stuck with pink dots in EOS-M crop mode, this should do the trick:
PDR Rewind EOS-M Crop (http://moredo.ru/raw/PDR%20Rewind%20for%20EOS-M%20crop.zip)
Make sure you convert the RAW file, not dngs, just drag&drop them onto the PDR window, select EOS-M from dropdown menu, and chose Interpolate, then push Convert Files.
Then extract the dngs by raw2dng or whatever method you used to. Those dngs should be free from pink dots (at least for 1280x720 in 5x crop mode). Let me know if it works for you.
:)
BACK IN BUSINESS! GREAT JOB REWIND!
Quote from: gary2013 on September 07, 2013, 09:07:27 PM
Thank you Rewind. Can someone modify PDR so it has an indication that it is working? A progress bar showing how long is still needed.
Gary
It has that indication actually, but... file-wise. If you feed a number of RAW files, progress bar will show the progress by each of the files is being processed.
Was it difficult. Was it just off by a pixel? What do you think happened? THANKS AGAIN!
:)
@Gary, it shows a progress bar if you process more than one RAW file at a time. If you just do one, yes, there is no progress bar I can see.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 07, 2013, 09:14:06 PM
exactly how and where is this indication shown in the PDR window? I do not see anything except a pop up saying it is completed. I am using the PDR you posted here
I am talking about doing a raw file only, not DNG files
Like this:
(http://ipic.su/img/img7/fs/kiss_35kb.1378581301.jpg)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 07, 2013, 09:16:31 PM
ok, cus I just sat here for a long time waiting for one raw file and it never did anything for some reason. must have been a bad file cus they usually work
That happened in the beginning to me. Now I make sure I've clicked it! Otherwise, simple enough to click again or, to be safe, close, re-open, and try again. I have gotten warnings/stopping from corrupted files. So I don't believe it will go on forever doing nothing.
:)
Quote from: maxotics on September 07, 2013, 09:12:24 PM
Was it difficult. Was it just off by a pixel? What do you think happened? THANKS AGAIN!
Well, I don't know what exactly happened, because i don't have a EOS-M and i don't know, how it was organized earlier. I just picked up your raw file, and reconstruct the pixel map from it, here it is (http://moredo.ru/raw/EOSM-crop-chart.jpg). Then I just corrected the dot data file to correspond the locations from this chart.
It was not so difficult due to i've done it already for my 650D, but to read someone else's code is a real pain you know ))
Quote from: Rewind on September 07, 2013, 09:25:06 PM
Well, I don't know what exactly happened, because i don't have a EOS-M and i don't know, how it was organized earlier. I just picked up your raw file, and reconstruct the pixel map from it, here it is (http://moredo.ru/raw/EOSM-crop-chart.jpg). Then I just corrected the dot data file to correspond the locations from this chart.
It was not so difficult due to i've done it already for my 650D, but to read someone else's code is a real pain you know ))
Thanks Rewind! Awesome work. How are all those dots represented in a few lines of numbers in the dotData file? I find discussions about it in the thread, but no definite reference of what he decided to do.
Quote from: maxotics on September 07, 2013, 09:28:54 PM
Thanks Rewind! Awesome work. How are all those dots represented in a few lines of numbers in the dotData file? I find discussions about it in the thread, but no definite reference of what he decided to do.
I doubt my poor english skills will allow me to explain all this stuff correctly, but there are repeatitive sequences in dot locations, which may be characterized by a small amount of data. The comments at this part of the source code were guided me in the right direction:
* Add a "grid block" of dots to the dot set
*
* @param x0 the offset of the first dot column, relative to the image center in RAW coordinates (ignore ActiveArea)
* @param dy0 the offset of the first dot row, relative to image center in RAW coordinates (ignore ActiveArea)
* @param dy1 the offset of the last dot row, relative to image center in RAW coordinates (ignore ActiveArea)
* @param stepX the x-offset between to grid dots
* @param stepY the y-offset between to grid dots
*/
public void addCoordinates(int x0, int dy0, int dy1, int stepX, int stepY)
{
gridInfo.add(new int[]{x0, dy0, dy1, stepX, stepY});
}These variables x0, dy0, dy1, stepX, stepY are exactly what we see in dot data file.
Hope this will be helpful )
VERY HELPFUL! You're the man REWIND! Now I can shoot tonight and know I'll be pink-free in post :)
HI Rewind, sorry to be a pain. Can we just use one line (dot patterns) as an example?
7, -359, 331, 24, 30
I understand the 24 and 30. I can see how grids of dots have those x and y offsets.
But I can't find the first reference dot using the 7 and -359. How would you calculate that position on the grid, if we talk about in terms of 0,0 to 1280,720?
I think I'm close! THANKS!!!
Quote from: maxotics on September 07, 2013, 10:27:52 PM
How would you calculate that position on the grid, if we talk about in terms of 0,0 to 1280,720?
These positions are related to the center of the frame. I used Photoshop to take them:
(http://ipic.su/img/img7/fs/kiss_158kb.1378585969.jpg)
As you can see by the rulers, the center is on the cross of guides, then you just counting positions.
Thanks Rewind, I think I'm almost there.
7 gets the horizontal "column" position from center, so (1280/2) + 7 = 642 or x = 642
-359 get the vertical "row" position from center, so (720/2) - 359 = 1 or y = 1 (but starting from top down?)
720/2 + 331 = 691 which corresponds to the last "row" point, or in x/y 642/691 ?
What seems implicit, and please let me know if this sounds right, is that they assume the dots to the farthest right or left are unknown. So these patterns would work for both 1280x720 and 1600x720 say.
PDR essentially works from the center out, to the top-most dot and bottom most, and then to the end of each side, whatever the width
Is that right? Thanks!
Is anyone who owns the 18-55mm lense NOT experiencing the shutter bug?
@rewind, thanks for the update. I'd like to have a destination folder option on the software you've created, is it possible? I know its not killing the drive speed like cr2hdr.exe but I'm keeping 2 drives for RAW footage and pre-edit footage.
Quote from: WiGgLr on September 07, 2013, 11:52:25 PM
Is anyone who owns the 18-55mm lense NOT experiencing the shutter bug?
I think its all 18-55mm lenses that are affected. Its still an unknown bug too. Between a couple of us on here have posted a few DM logs to see if 1% or another dev can nail the issue but its drawing a blank so far.
:)
Just got/hack ML on the EOS-M (also have it on 5D3 for a while) and I have a quick question - Does Focus Stacking work on here? I don't see it in the menu, but maybe I missed it? :-/
:)
Seems every body is still talking about video staff. Makes me doubt if I really bought a photo camera. Anyway, I just wonder if 1% are still interested in working on the magic zoom function or improving the live view auto zoom function. Thanks again.
Quote from: Malakai on September 08, 2013, 03:12:49 AM
I think its all 18-55mm lenses that are affected. Its still an unknown bug too. Between a couple of us on here have posted a few DM logs to see if 1% or another dev can nail the issue but its drawing a blank so far.
how do i reproduce this bug? has this been posted, i searched quickly and i couldn't find any exact directions. does a power cycle fix it for you?
Quote from: haomuch on September 08, 2013, 06:08:59 AM
Seems every body is still talking about video staff. Makes me doubt if I really bought a photo camera. Anyway, I just wonder if 1% are still interested in working on the magic zoom function or improving the live view auto zoom function. Thanks again.
well, it definitely not ready for pro-use. there are still lots of trouble in RAW footage, especially dual-iso footage requires too much cpu cycles to make something out of it. also there are other problems, dots, green/pink screen issues, fps override crashes, overheating, small battery etc.
get a 5D.III and be happy, but costs 10 times more than M.
Quote from: zuzukasuma on September 08, 2013, 02:26:29 AM
@rewind, thanks for the update. I'd like to have a destination folder option on the software you've created, is it possible? I know its not killing the drive speed like cr2hdr.exe but I'm keeping 2 drives for RAW footage and pre-edit footage.
All the credits goes to Foorgol and Mixer2, i am just playing around with interpolation algorithm (which by the way is pretty much acceptable now) and trying to optimize the tool for my 650D, so that i can work with it right now.
But this is just a partial solution, I hope the devs sooner or later will polish the tool. I'm not a java programmer, and it is formidable for me to explore their code.
But I'm glad to help )
Quote from: jerrykil on September 08, 2013, 06:59:11 AM
how do i reproduce this bug? has this been posted, i searched quickly and i couldn't find any exact directions. does a power cycle fix it for you?
From what I've read, you just switch the camera on with the 18-55mm attached and you won't be able to take photos until you either double tap the power button, or reattach the lens with the power on. The bug will reappear every time the camera is turned off.
Quote from: gary2013 on September 08, 2013, 03:20:44 AM
The only thing that is so different about this one lens, and not even the pancake brother, is that it uses IS controlled electronically from the cam body. The pancake has no IS and yet it works fine with ML. Just this one zoom lens has a problem.
Gary
Does this happen for the 11-22mm ef-m? That has Electronic IS i believe.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 08, 2013, 06:59:11 AM
how do i reproduce this bug? has this been posted, i searched quickly and i couldn't find any exact directions. does a power cycle fix it for you?
Just turn the camera on with ML bootloading and the shutter wont activate, power cycle or rotate lens and it will work until you next power off. Is not a permanent fix.
Quote from: Rewind on September 08, 2013, 09:15:15 AM
All the credits goes to Foorgol and Mixer2, i am just playing around with interpolation algorithm (which by the way is pretty much acceptable now) and trying to optimize the tool for my 650D, so that i can work with it right now.
But this is just a partial solution, I hope the devs sooner or later will polish the tool. I'm not a java programmer, and it is formidable for me to explore their code.
But I'm glad to help )
I see. no prob, they are here too :) I hope they can combine it with other softwares too, I'd like to have a "Magic Lantern RAW-Dual ISO-HDR Video Suite" in the future.
posted on dual iso thread but you might miss it,
having problem with cr2hdr.exe on bright areas like sunset, the original DNG is here (from RAW-Dual ISO file) https://www.transferbigfiles.com/c58348c4-8282-4dcd-b58b-59e1dbb9a684/Uw7m4GTs2sg8-yDtjvYYjA2
Quote from: Malakai on September 08, 2013, 11:52:38 AM
Does this happen for the 11-22mm ef-m? That has Electronic IS i believe.
Just turn the camera on with ML bootloading and the shutter wont activate, power cycle or rotate lens and it will work until you next power off. Is not a permanent fix.
mine works fine so far. i;ve had the bug on the old firmware 1+ML but it was spontaneous. right now i have my 18-55 in and no problems as of yet
Quote from: jerrykil on September 08, 2013, 12:53:22 PM
mine works fine so far. i;ve had the bug on the old firmware 1+ML but it was spontaneous. right now i have my 18-55 in and no problems as of yet
Are you using 1%'s latest ML version with the EF-M 18-55mm? What firmware are your lens and camera on? This could be the breakthru we need to find the fix to this bug! If yours is working then there may be something in the logs that one of the devs can see the difference between us having the bug and you not having it.
Can you upload the contents of your SD card, just the ML folder, autoexec and the fw file. Zip them all together and ill grab them and test them in my M to see if theres any difference.
I'm running from tragic lantern 6D binaries i compiled a few commits ago. maybe something they did fixed it recently? let me know if these files work:
http://www.bot-fly.com/tragiclatern_eosm202_sept4.zip (http://www.bot-fly.com/tragiclatern_eosm202_sept4.zip)
Here is another one i built today. still no shutter bug for me:
http://www.bot-fly.com/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep08.EOSM202.zip
Quote from: jerrykil on September 08, 2013, 04:40:16 PM
I'm running from tragic lantern 6D binaries i compiled a few commits ago. maybe something they did fixed it recently? let me know if these files work:
http://www.bot-fly.com/tragiclatern_eosm202_sept4.zip (http://www.bot-fly.com/tragiclatern_eosm202_sept4.zip)
Here is another one i built today. still no shutter bug for me:
http://www.bot-fly.com/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep08.EOSM202.zip
Neither versions worked :( can you confirm your M FW and lens FW, mine are 2.0.2 and 2.0.0. @gary2013 can you give these a go too see if they do anything for you.
camera: 2.0.2
lens: 2.0.0
@Malakai, He may not understand the problem fully. Can you give him an exact step by step of what he should do to reproduce problem. I don't have that lens. Maybe he's not seeing it?
Sure, this is the issue as I have it.
I have my eos M with ML installed and bootloading on fw 2.0.2 and using the EF-M 18-55mm IS lens on fw 2.0.0.
When the camera is powered up the shutter wont activate. It will focus at half press but on full press it wont take the shot. Neither will it record video or work in auto mode. In order to make the shutter activate i either have to perform a quick power cycle or rotate the lens and back to break the contacts between lens and body. Only then will the shutter actuate and take shots.
Steps to test. Confirm ef-m 18-55mm lens is on the camera. Then confirm you have ML running by powering on the camera and pressing two fingers on the display. Does ML menu show up? If so. Next step. Power off the camera for a count of five seconds. During this the SD light should flash briefly. Now. Power on the camera in photo mode. Without changing any settings take a photo. Does the shutter activate and capture the shot or does it just autofocus and no shot?
Seems pretty straight forward, but I am not getting the same bug. Does your focus indicator bracket turn green or red or does it remain white? Have you tried setting on manual focus?
Quote from: jerrykil on September 08, 2013, 07:09:15 PM
Seems pretty straight forward, but I am not getting the same bug. Does your focus indicator bracket turn green or red or does it remain white? Have you tried setting on manual focus?
Can you confirm the steps you took from starting with a stock eos m and blank formatted SD card so i can replicate those steps to see if it fixes it for me. Did you use eoscard to make your card bootable?
@1% is it worth jerrykil doing a dm.log to see if you can see a difference between the log i did to maybe narrow down the problem?
Malakai, i actually didn't use EOSCard. I was able to boot without the utility this time. I did a low level reformat on the card to help eosm1986 get ML working. Basically I was able to simply put the files on the freshly formatted card and do a firmware update like that. That being said, I had run the MacBoot variant of the EOSCard utility before on the card.
Another question for you: does it work with the ML bootflag off? update firmware again and when the "success" screen comes up change the camera mode dial to disable the bootflag, then reboot the camera. just curious
:)
:)
http://www.bot-fly.com/tragiclatern_eosm202_sept4.zip
this is directly from my card
the guys have done a lot today, actually, so there are some ettr and other updates that are not found in that build.
that file does include the .fir file
1% is still making changes.
thank you for spending your sunday on ML
respec' :P
Quote from: gary2013 on September 08, 2013, 09:06:13 PM
what is eosm1986?
(s)he's a new user who couldn't get EOSCard to work for him, so he did without
:)
same here with new card and not using eoscard. Hopefully one of the devs can figure this out. Being as we now have one confirmed working 18-55mm efm. Im guessing its just a case of find out whats happening differently thats causing the bug.
i take lens off when i do initial install, or i have my 22mm on normally
Hah!
well this is interesting. I got the bug now. I have a before and after DM. unfortunately the first DM was from a diff firmware, but hopefully not entirely useless. I have no idea how to do a meaningful 'diff' on these logs.
this is probably useless but here are the two files
http://www.bot-fly.com/DM_good.LOG
http://www.bot-fly.com/DM_bad.LOG
edit: putting the files from
http://www.bot-fly.com/tragiclatern_eosm202_sept4.zip
seems to have fixed it for now
EDIT again:
I reuploaded the two log files. one log from TL built just moments ago, the other log from build a few days ago on sep. 4th.
Gary or malakai, when you turn on the dual_iso module does your shutter work? I found i was able to get shutter to work with the module on. i am taking the battery out between reboots to make sure its not the quick reboot. Even when the module is loaded and not enabled, i am able to fire shutter
:)
gary,
just to make sure. you do ahve to reboot now when you load modules and you have to have "autoload modules on startup" on. you do have the option in your ML camera menu, right?
I do notice a difference, in the good log this doesn't show up.
IDLEHandler PRESS_SW1_BUTTON
fssSW1On
GetAloAndPsAutoTarget
GetLvUsedInfo
[AEWB] aewbColorCalcResponse
SCN :IconType 0 [0] [0] [0]
evfChangeHdInterrupt
Af_StopPath
Af_StopPath Complete
SW1 is the shutter press.
gary or malakai, does that show up in your DM's?
my latest logs of today's build also don't have any mention of SW1 and the bug is not there anymore. i did a clean install with the latest build including a clean format to rule out any config file differences.
:)
:)
Gary,
its weird but oyu have to turn it on, then give it a minute or so and then turn it off by just going to the menu again and selecting DM Log again. i always get the same file size: 2097151 bytes. curious to see if your log looks like this or if ur problem is something else (that would suck)
:)
I posted a recent EOS-M video and comments under the "Share Videos" section.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8171.new#new
Quote from: gary2013 on September 09, 2013, 12:12:56 AM
here is my current dm log
https://www.transferbigfiles.com/9c8ea3e9-3b14-47bb-8280-c05b1cd1778c/XPD3uZt92jtnACGAZ4Xt4A2
gary
unfortunately, i don't see any mention of SW1. maybe 1% can spot something
I don't know have you realized or not but, dual ISO files are bigger than normal RAWs and EOS M can still kick 6-7 RAWs at burst.
avg dual iso file is 24MB x 7 ~ 168 MB ( I know it also directly writes files to card) but how much do we have with multi shot NR mode?
Quote from: Rewind on September 07, 2013, 09:25:06 PM
Well, I don't know what exactly happened, because i don't have a EOS-M and i don't know, how it was organized earlier. I just picked up your raw file, and reconstruct the pixel map from it, here it is (http://moredo.ru/raw/EOSM-crop-chart.jpg). Then I just corrected the dot data file to correspond the locations from this chart.
It was not so difficult due to i've done it already for my 650D, but to read someone else's code is a real pain you know ))
do you have a solution on PDR for Dual ISO AF pixel removal?
Wow loads happened while I was away! lol
@1% could it be that the difference you have spotted be the cause of our shutterbug? Is it something that can be fixed?
@jerrykil here are logs of mine from a few pages ago.
DM.log shutter activating via hack (http://malakai.sytes.net/extras/eosm/DM_ACT.LOG)
DM.log shutter not activating (http://malakai.sytes.net/extras/eosm/DM_NOACT.LOG)
Gary,
could you post your DM log right after you boot? i'm not sure if that was the case with your original post.
The SW1 thing that 1% found is a shutter press, so maybe if you boot up , press the shutter down and then go and debug dump all that we can compare your SW1 to mine?
Thanks
Quote from: 1% on September 08, 2013, 11:20:03 PM
I do notice a difference, in the good log this doesn't show up.
IDLEHandler PRESS_SW1_BUTTON
fssSW1On
GetAloAndPsAutoTarget
GetLvUsedInfo
[AEWB] aewbColorCalcResponse
SCN :IconType 0 [0] [0] [0]
evfChangeHdInterrupt
Af_StopPath
Af_StopPath Complete
SW1 is the shutter press.
How does DM log work. Does it log everything after you hit it until it reaches its max filesize? Does log everything from the time you boot?
you found the same thing in Malakai's logs a few pages ago. is there anything else that we could do to help illuminate whats goin on here?
Quote from: jerrykil on September 09, 2013, 05:19:51 PM
How does DM log work. Does it log everything after you hit it until it reaches its max filesize? Does log everything from the time you boot?
you found the same thing in Malakai's logs a few pages ago. is there anything else that we could do to help illuminate whats goin on here?
I just tried ML with the 18-55 and I have no shutter problem.
If this helpes:
I still use the old download from Rootwang #1110 on side 45. Longer ago I installed the new EOS M firmware and then the Rootwang ML download as it was. Since then I did´nt change anything.
For me.. the shutter bug only appears with the two EF-M lenses 18-55 and 11-22.
EF 70-200 IS F4 and few and cheaper EF lenses with the adapter works perfect on first try with IS on.
Quote from: EVVK on September 09, 2013, 06:55:42 PM
For me.. the shutter bug only appears with the two EF-M lenses 18-55 and 11-22.
EF 70-200 IS F4 and few and cheaper EF lenses with the adapter works perfect on first try with IS on.
Well, looks like you've confirmed a similar issue with the 10-22 which should give more weight to the IS bug theory. Hope you're reading 1% :)
:)
:)
QuoteWell, looks like you've confirmed a similar issue with the 10-22 which should give more weight to the IS bug theory. Hope you're reading 1%
So basically the EOSM mount IS is causing some sort of problem. Can you turn IS off on any of these lenses and does it go away?
Turning off is doesnt fix the bug. As its electronic IS there is no manual way of disabling it. Only thru the menu.
Disabling IS in the menu does not seem to make any difference to me att all.
Even if it's left off and the camera is cold booted the bug is still there.
Has anyone attempted obstructing one or more of the lens contacts with tape or something to remedy this issue with the ef-m lenses? Might disable functionality, but might also fix the glitch. Would be interested in hearing results of this experiment.
:)
:)
We must be interfering with something when hooking half shutter... are all things like MZ off?
:)
:)
Well I know you guys have already been stuck with the shutter problem. But unfortunately I met another bug again today. The camera gets dead when trying to apply creative effects to existed photos and can only reload the battery to save it. Tried for many times and always performs the same. Sorry for lack of dm log as I don't know how to get it. You guys may just have a try on your camera.
Quotewhat if you make a completely basic build with most things removed and we see if the bug is still there? if not, then we could see if something added one by one makes it appear.
Might have to do something like that... but most things mess with the shutter or 1/2 shutter.
QuoteYou guys may just have a try on your camera.
I did and creative filters seem to work. Lots of photos on the card or just a few?
1%, while you're around. I'm looking into mapping all the focus pixels on the EOS-M. Is that worth doing? Does it already exist? Thoughts? Thanks!
Just a few photos and it goes to dead when apply the effects every time for different photos.
:)
Quote1%, while you're around. I'm looking into mapping all the focus pixels on the EOS-M. Is that worth doing? Does it already exist?
You mean all the dots like for PDR?
Quotewill it be possible to get the audio in the camera recording along with the raw video?
Wav freezes the camera for some reason, even if it didn't you'd be recording like 640x480 to have audio.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 09, 2013, 08:45:24 PM
which 18-55 are you referring to? the efm or the efs?
gary
... the efm.
:)
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 11, 2013, 11:01:51 AM
Funky,
I just tried the Rootwang you speak of and it took one pic at first on the camera, but then I turned the camera off, waited and then turned it back on and the shutter bug is still there. The Rotwang version does not get rid of the shutter bug. I am not sure why your camera does not have that problem. You are the only one that has said that using these EF M lenses with IS.
Gary
Hi Gary - I have no idea too.
Just checked it again, did a few photos and filmed. Turned it of and on, photos ... filming, ... a few times ... still no problems with the shutter. Only focus peaking stops working some times.
Maybe I did something different then you all did. When I changed to the new EOS M fimware, I reseted everything back to 0 before (uninstal ML bootflag on the M, format SD card, ...). That´s why I couldn´t use ML after installing 2.0.2. and had to wait till Rootwang gave me/us his compiled ML version. Since than I didn´t change a thing.
I did read here that you could update to 2.0.2 from 1.0.6 without uninstaling ML before and that many people did it this way - but I didn´t do so. I guess that´s all I can say about what I may have done different.
I have no idea if this made the difference because I do not really understand what you do and how you program all this fantastic ML stuff - but it´s a fact that I didn´t face any shutter problems with the 18-55 efm till now.
I hope this helpes you!
:)
@gary2013 I'm still here! 'I feel ya', as they say. The shutter-bug is a big issue to me, even though I don't have that lens. If the efm 10-20mm lens works (without the bug) and goes on sale in the U.S., then in crop mode the EOS-M will be a super small RAW shooter. It's great with my Sigma ef 10-20mm. But that's a big lens. It might be okay with the 22mm if the lens had IS.
Today I've been working on an alternative to the pink dot problem, hope to post soon and then you'll see I'm far from gone! Though, of course, it's 1% we really need!!!!
gary:
here is another nightly from the work committed today. it seems there have been some audio changes/additions, although i'm not sure what you're talking about.
you gutta be patient with the devs, cuz, you know, we don't have a choice :P
i guess we could learn to hack camera's and contribute our time and effort :o
http://www.bot-fly.com/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep11.EOSM202.zip
:)
:)
Im still lurking around. Keeping an eye open waiting for the devs to give us something to test. Ive done all im capable of and im happy to sit back, hunt for bugs and wait for the devs.
:D
Quote from: gary2013 on September 12, 2013, 01:35:22 AM
We may be at a standstill cus of certain bugs, etc. but we do have something that us usable and some workarounds as other people, including me, are showing. That is quite an achievement from having nothing when I bought this camera. The things about audio that I mentioned are that the audio meters do not show during setup and after recording.
...
We all love what you are doing, 1%. Please always understand this. :-)
Gary
I noticed there are level monitors now in the left most tab of the ML menu. Have you seen that, yet? Its a more recent addition. I thought that was pretty cool, not sure if it works, however. With the PDR problems, are you giving up on raw for the time being? Is the h264 compression that bad? I'm not a video guy but I had a lot of fun playing with HDR video on my EOS M. There were a few framedrops, however :P
Hi fellow EOS-M'ers, I created an alternative PDR processing routine using ufRAW. urRAW has a pretty good bad-pixel clean-up function. Obviously, PDR is my first choice. This is just in case something changes in ML, busting PDR again, and I need to do something with recently shot video.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6658.msg75354#msg75354
:)
:)
Hi Gary, I have another script on the forum that does similar stuff. I'll combine them and try to make it easy for anyone. Right now, this is just an insurance policy ;) You can also process the DNGs in ufRAW's GUI.
Anyone else having this issue when installing? Everything seems to go perfect, but after I get the install confirmation (green text screen) and restart, it just goes back to the normal interface. If I cycle through the Info displays, one will be ML's, but no ability to do anything with it. Same in video. There's no ML menu available at all, so I really can't do a thing with it besides watch the zebras. I'm following the instructions from post 1496 from p.60, with a camera with 2.02 FW from the factory.
:)
Quote from: funkysound on September 11, 2013, 01:46:21 PM
Hi Gary - I have no idea too.
Just checked it again, did a few photos and filmed. Turned it of and on, photos ... filming, ... a few times ... still no problems with the shutter. Only focus peaking stops working some times.
Maybe I did something different then you all did. When I changed to the new EOS M fimware, I reseted everything back to 0 before (uninstal ML bootflag on the M, format SD card, ...). That´s why I couldn´t use ML after installing 2.0.2. and had to wait till Rootwang gave me/us his compiled ML version. Since than I didn´t change a thing.
I did read here that you could update to 2.0.2 from 1.0.6 without uninstaling ML before and that many people did it this way - but I didn´t do so. I guess that´s all I can say about what I may have done different.
I have no idea if this made the difference because I do not really understand what you do and how you program all this fantastic ML stuff - but it´s a fact that I didn´t face any shutter problems with the 18-55 efm till now.
I hope this helpes you!
Hi funky,
I haven't yet installed ML, but I have both the 22mm and 18-55mm EF-M lenses. My camera came with the 1.0.6 firmware, and I updated it to 2.0.2 before taking the plunge with ML. As such, I think I could be in the perfect position to test your theory.
Please could you give me newbie step by step instructions on how to get ML installed the way you have done it? Then we can see whether I experience the bug (hopefully not).
Thanks,
Wigglr
You could try 1% latest version. Grab this zip from here (https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5DFullbackADTGui.zip), or try the ML build that was put up a few posts ago by jerrykil from here (http://www.bot-fly.com/tragiclatern_eosm202_sept4.zip).
Unzip it to a folder on your computer.
Copy all the files inside onto the root of your memory card (32gb or smaller)
Put it in your camera and power the camera up then make sure the mode dial is on camera manual. (Middle setting)
In the menu go to spanner 4 this is the page that shows the camera firmware, should say firmware ver.: 2.0.2. Press set on it and it will show the camera and lens firmware. Press set again on camera and it will give the firmware update screen. Choose OK. Dont touch the camera. Let it do its thing. The screen may flash a few times but eventually you will get a screen with green writing on it. At this point turn off the camera. Wait for a few seconds then turn it back on. If at any point in time the SD light goes red and stays red for longer than a few seconds pull the battery from the camera. This shouldnt happen but just in case it does.
ML should now be installed. Just press two fingers on the screen at the same time and the ML menu should appear.
To test for the bug, put the 18-55mm ef-m on and just turn the camera on. Check ML is running by brining up menu then try taking a photo. If you get focus lock and then shutter activation you dont have the bug. If you get focus lock and no shutter activation after a full press then you have the bug.
If you want to uninstall ML. perform the same steps but when you get to the screen with the green writing change the mode dial to auto camera. After powering off reset your camera to default then format your memory card in your computer.
Remember, you do this at your own risk. I take no responsibility if you break your camera. This post is for information only.
Quote from: WiGgLr on September 12, 2013, 11:09:52 AM
Hi funky,
I haven't yet installed ML, but I have both the 22mm and 18-55mm EF-M lenses. My camera came with the 1.0.6 firmware, and I updated it to 2.0.2 before taking the plunge with ML. As such, I think I could be in the perfect position to test your theory.
Please could you give me newbie step by step instructions on how to get ML installed the way you have done it? Then we can see whether I experience the bug (hopefully not).
Thanks,
Wigglr
@ Malakai: Wiggir tries to test if there is this bug with Rootwangs version too or not - I didn´t update to any other version until I tried this one and I have no bug. Let´s find out first if this is only happen with my M.
Hi Wigglr,
sounds like a good idea to me.
If I remember it right it´s easy to do. You just download the compiled version from Rootwang (post #1110 on side 45) and do the normal ML instalation which you can find here (even if EOS M is not mentioned because there is no official version till now - the procedere is the same) :
http://www.magiclantern.fm/install.html
Malakai explaned it too.
:)
@funkysound
Sounds like a good idea. Try rootwangs version. If you used it and dont have the bug and he tries it and doesnt get the bug too then there is some kind of connection there. If he then tries 1% version and gets the bug then the devs may be able to narrow it down a bit more.
ok thanks guys, I'll try this out when I get home from work
Quote from: gary2013 on September 12, 2013, 04:32:37 AM
Sometimes I have problems and it eventually clears up after maybe four attempts of off-then back on. Make sure you wait a few seconds for the red flash led to appear by the on/.off button. I had a problem an hour ago installing thet latest build posted here and the modules were not loading. They were always showing an Err for each module. After four attempts of turning them on,etc. it finally worked correctly and all modules loaded up saying OK. I had this module loading problem before maybe three or four weeks ago.
Don't forget you are suppose to tap the LCD display with two finger tips at the same time to get into the ML menus.
Gary
Finally got it working! Thanks!
Well the other version is built off my repo, just newer.
OK, so I had to hunt around for a non-SDXC card, as I have been using 2 x 64GB class 10 of those.
Eventually I find an old point and shoot camera with a 2GB SD MLC card in it, then I followed the instructions from funkysound's link (installed ML without a lens on). Fired it up to see it worked, turned it off, put on the 18-55 and switched it on, no problem at all taking shots (only tried AV mode).
I switched on focus peak and magic zoom, plus overlay, took more shots.
I switched to 22mm lens, took a couple of shots, switched back to 18-55, took some more shots
I must have turned the camera on and off at least 20 times in all (waiting for the light to flash before switching on again) and did not get the bug.
I'm now going to try following the instructions to put ML on one of my 64GB cards, I'll report back.
Quote from: WiGgLr on September 12, 2013, 08:28:05 PM
I'm now going to try following the instructions to put ML on one of my 64GB cards, I'll report back.
I copy/pasted the contents off of the 2GB onto a freshly camera formatted 64GB card (formatted before ML), then used EOSCard as per screenshot in this link http://www.magiclantern.fm/install.html
There doesn't seem to be a shutter bug
So it came and went with recent builds?
This is the first time I installed ML, as I upgraded to 2.0.2 vanilla firmware before ML was ready so had to wait.
I then held off and watched this thread while the bootloading issue was going on, and then the 18-55 issue. So for me, I've never had the shutter bug. I'm using the rootwang firmware that funkysound pointed me to on the previous page.
:)
Quote from: WiGgLr on September 12, 2013, 08:50:56 PM
This is the first time I installed ML, as I upgraded to 2.0.2 vanilla firmware before ML was ready so had to wait.
I then held off and watched this thread while the bootloading issue was going on, and then the 18-55 issue. So for me, I've never had the shutter bug. I'm using the rootwang firmware that funkysound pointed me to on the previous page.
That sounds interesting to me so far!
It looks like it really got something to do with installing 2.0.2 on 1.0.6 when ML was still installed on the EOS M because on Gary´s M this version didn´t work without shutter problems. The bug was still there he wrote.
@ Gary: Did you upgrade your M from 1.0.6 to 2.0.2 without uninstalling ML before?
But now I better shut my mouth again because I don´t really know and understand how all this works what the programmers do here.
I´ll come back if I realize something which could be helpful for you all to know.
It shouldn't make a difference though... unless there are different versions of this lens with different lens firmware. I noticed in 2.0.2 one of my nikon adapters doesn't work anymore either .... but the newer one does.
:)
:)
:)
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 12, 2013, 09:01:11 PM
what lens ver firmware do the guys have that have no bug?
Gary
2.0.0 on the 18-55mm
1.8.0 on the 22mm
:)
I have been using ML from the 1.0.6 firmware and now on 2.0.2. I had both the 18-55 and the 22. Both work for me although the 18-55 does have shutter problem for several times but a reboot simply solve it. Now I refresh to the latest ML and found some new interesting staff. Thanks very much for your work 1% as well as other contributors.
But unfortunately the magic zoom is still basically unusable and the live view auto zoom has not been improved. Which is very very annoying for me because this is a photo camera first but we can't even get a perfect way to use manual lenses on it. I don't know why it's so hard to improve these two functions. Even though the magic zoom still need some work to find out the sync method, we can at least improve the auto zoom by simply add an option to only trigger it after half pressed the shutter for a certain 0.x second. Therefore we don't need to go through the auto zoomed view every time before taking the shoot. I am very eager to see some change to that.
Also, I think it could be much better to auto trigger the magic zoom box only when half pressed and disable it when release the button. So that we can see the focus peaking before half press without being disturbed by the magic zoom function.
QuoteI don't know why it's so hard to improve these two functions.
Because vsync is pretty bad on EOSM.... but the other suggestions do make sense... its really bad using MZ or 10x zoom with the half shutter method (I hate it).
Quote from: 1% on September 12, 2013, 10:35:11 PM
Because vsync is pretty bad on EOSM.... but the other suggestions do make sense... its really bad using MZ or 10x zoom with the half shutter method (I hate it).
I also guess it's very hard to get the magic room working perfectly but I believe you can figure it out some day. I don't know if it's possible to add the trigger delay option but currently I think it could be the only work around.
BTW, even though I also hate to use the10x room function as a work around, I can actually accept to trigger the magic zoom box with half shutter press if it's not set to be always on. But I just want it only appear after the shutter half pressed and auto disappear after release the button. Just as I said before, it could help us almost use the focus peaking and then the magic zoom together. Currently these two functions can only work alone.
Well I don't think there is enough CPU for focus peaking + magic zoom. Maybe the digic peaking.
Quote from: 1% on September 12, 2013, 11:05:15 PM
Well I don't think there is enough CPU for focus peaking + magic zoom. Maybe the digic peaking.
Well maybe I didn't make myself clear. My idea is that before we half press the shutter it's focus peaking. When we manual adjusted the lens close to the focus point and half pressed the shutter, the magic zoom is triggered and focus peaking is disabled. So we can continue micro adjust the focus. After we took the shoot and release the shutter, the magic zoom exist and the camera comes back to focus peaking. It's a little different from the current switch method.
Of course this is only meaningful after the vsync solved.
Yep, right now it comes on way too often and stays on when you don't want it.
i like the digic peaking more. a1ex added code to make it turn off when shutter is half-pressed
ml dev dudes,
is there any advice on capturing stuff with mem_spy module? i can't find much documentation the tool. i feel like mapping out some more of the eos M memory space would be beneficial and maybe we could get this shutter bug figured out. tweeking MEM_SPY.CFG doesn't seem to populate the values when i boot up the camera. is that normal?
thaaaanks
Use a build with memory browser enabled (CONFIG HEXDUMP). It's usually faster unless you know what you are looking for and how it should behave
:)
Loaded both raw_rec and mlv_rec?
:)
Turn one off in the module menu. One outputs MLV, the other outputs normal RAW files.
:)
mlv = magic lantern video format developed by g3gg0 and alex. Alternate to RAW, smaller files, faster. Requires mlv2dng.exe to convert mlv frames into dng frames.
:)
Quote from: 1% on September 14, 2013, 05:23:44 PM
Loaded both raw_rec and mlv_rec?
Hi 1%. I have loaded both mlv_rec.mo and raw_rec.mo.
raw_rec working fine (with mlv_rec disabled)
mlv_rec not working (with rec_rec disabled)
What am I going wrong?
It should work with raw rec disabled... what's it doing?
FYI MLV isn't faster.
Quote from: gary2013 on September 14, 2013, 07:49:51 PM
Canon eos m
thank you. does it work using the M camera? any specific write speed for the memory card? I so, I will try it out.
gary
It is supposed to work now. I cannot get it working. When you load the latest modules two files give you the ability to record raw video (I) mlv_rec.mo & (II) raw_rec.mo.
When you are using one 'off' the other in the module activation menu. Then poweroff and poweron your camera. This should get you started.
MLV boosts camera speed. You should be able to record bigger frames with MLV activated.
:)
Quote from: 1% on September 14, 2013, 07:51:10 PM
It should work with raw rec disabled... what's it doing?
FYI MLV isn't faster.
Sorry, thought it was in the sense of the 5DM3 giving the camera the ability to harness both the SD and CF cards and producing speeds in excess of 110mb/s. Thought this is what it does to the M too.
I have the raw_rec disabled. But no action on pressing the REC or Menu buttons. Camera does nothing.
Strange... I did test it on M and 6D. Do you have SD and CF on eosM? Only 5DIII benefits from that. This module needs an update anyway, its not in the ML repo and g3ggo made some changes... I see commits from last few days.
Quote from: 1% on September 14, 2013, 07:51:10 PM
It should work with raw rec disabled... what's it doing?
FYI MLV isn't faster.
Do the mlv files show up as *.MOV files?
:)
:)
Its probably recording H264 if you're getting mov files... same for the lag. Maybe something is messed up in what was compiled.
:)
You probably need a newer built MLV rec. Its triggering H264 + raw or just H264 and the one on my camera isn't.
:)
You'd have to build it, I didn't put one up yet and it really should get the updated stuff from g3gg0's repo.
:)
I wouldn't really worry about it at this point as its
A. Slower
B. Only real benefit is meta data right now.
:)
Quote from: 1% on September 14, 2013, 08:51:11 PM
I wouldn't really worry about it at this point as its
A. Slower
B. Only real benefit is meta data right now.
gary2013 - I agree that raw_rec.mo is solid enough for now. It gives you ability to record RAW and should meet all your requirements in post processing video. Good luck using ML!
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 14, 2013, 11:39:01 PM
Canon eos m,
Thank you, but no thanks. I am done with ML. Good luck "trying" to use ML. I prefer to work with professional people who understand respect. Do not take this personally, I am not talking about you.
Gary
Good bye! :D Don't come back!
Quote from: feureau on September 15, 2013, 05:21:54 AM
Good bye! :D Don't come back!
gary2013, you have to understand that the whole business of photography is difficult when you are on the learning curve. Cameras are not easy beasts to contain. Add to that the complication of a new interface can make the whole experience daunting. The developers are no different - while their creative juices flow - they themselves are struggling to join the pieces of the puzzle. More challenging is to get what they have created understood and useable by the common audience like you and I.
Let me tell you my story. I have the 5DM3 and the EOS M. For various reasons the 5DM3 is a beast that has raw power unparalleled. But the downside is that it is big and it requires a very trained person to get the best results from it. Then there is the whole thing about video (and audio) vs. pictures. One day I tell myself that I will be a photographer of repute; and on another day shift to becoming a DoP on another. Using ML adds to the confusion since there are so many new features coming out all the time that lure you away from your resolve.
But, living with this chaos and internal conflict has made my resolve to learn only stronger. And, the EOS M keeps my passion going when I am daunted by the unknown. It is small but capable - in a very nice way. The results on the EOS M for general photography and video are the same (almost) to any other camera out there. My favorite feature of all ML is Dual_ISO. I just love love it.
RAW video on the EOS M, for now, is not the same thing due to the crop + 5X magnification. But RAW is RAW and it makes a difference when you need more punch.
My advice is try all the features the EOS M + ML have to offer and find out your personal favourite and follow the development of that feature all the way. The developers, members and supporters will help you get the hang of it.
Don't worry. Keep your faith.
:)
Quote from: gary2013 on August 19, 2013, 05:54:07 PM
Can we have the audio meters working all the time? Currently, they only work during recording. It's important to see the meters before we record as well as during recording.
Quote from: gary2013 on August 26, 2013, 03:08:27 PM
Can we get PLEASE get some more audio control by allowing stereo audio out thru the USB AV port AND keep the video showing all the time on the camera's LCD?
Quote from: gary2013 on August 28, 2013, 06:16:44 PM
1%
Have you had any more progress with the audio we were talking about the other day as far as getting the AV cable/USB port to put out the audio while keeping the LCD turned on for video?
Quote from: gary2013 on September 06, 2013, 03:23:41 AM
1%, any luck/progress with audio out/headphone? That is really the most important to me. Pretty pleez? :-)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 07, 2013, 12:43:12 AM
what else can we do while 1% gets that audio headphone output working? 8)
Quote from: gary2013 on September 12, 2013, 12:15:47 AM
1%, have you been pulled off of the M? I see the 5D and other cams getting worked on but the M seems lost. :-) Please, I beg of you, please get the audio working with meters on full time and audio out thru the AV USB plug.
Quote from: gary2013 on September 10, 2013, 06:27:07 AM
will it be possible to get the audio in the camera recording along with the raw video?
Quote from: jerrykil on September 12, 2013, 01:02:43 AM
gary:
[...]
you gutta be patient with the devs, cuz, you know, we don't have a choice :P
Quote from: gary2013 on September 12, 2013, 01:35:22 AM
I am patient. I just feel that someone has to remind or bring up things cus possibly there is so much going on with the devs they may forget about some things.
Quoteok. can i politely put out another big request for audio out thru the AV USB port with headphones on the M? and full time meters. :-)
Maybe bumping was not the best word for this. Anyone can suggest a better word? Adding the word "politely" while still asking for the same thing over and over doesn't help much.
I gave you the warning, and it was not a personal attack, but a hint that you should read the forum rules.
:)
:)
I guess it is too much free time? ;)
Reminds me of a small company that had 4 project leaders/managers and 1 developer. The 4 had meetings every day what the developer could do, without letting the developer into the meetings to say his word.
So you can imagine the board meetings all day long: - Wish he could implement this new .... feature if he only had time.
So 4 barely technical people trying to come up with plans how to take over the world with the company. The ratio between planning and implementing wasn't obviously working, it was only slowing down but they where to blind to see that. That company would have crashed if the developer decided to quit his job.
Anyway with the above story in mind, I wouldn't imagine anyone wants something bad to this project, everyone want to help. Maybe Gary has good insight enough and could maintain like the EOSM wiki page/documentation for example. This thread would have been a lot smaller if the documentation was up to date, since this thread is the only source for up to date information.
It is too easy to bounce (stupid & already answered) questions here, I'm not referring to anyone personally here just my personal general observations of this thread.
I would never have expected to see such a thing in any development forum. This is a good example.
Farewell, Gary.
I bow to all the devs and the community that let me have ML-enabled EOS M for daily use.
More options would never hurt me. I'm thankful to know ML does exist. :)
This is not good. Please let us find a way to put this behind us. Gary, Alex, 1% and all can we make new beginnings please.
Gary - managing the forums is a big task and everyone is trying to do their best. Please don't take things personally - the forums are about learning and enjoying the process.
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 15, 2013, 10:30:01 AM
This is not good. Please let us find a way to put this behind us. Gary, Alex, 1% and all can we make new beginnings please.
Gary - managing the forums is a big task and everyone is trying to do their best. Please don't take things personally - the forums are about learning and enjoying the process.
:) - definitly enjoying the process and loving all the wonders that do happen here! Wouldn´t be able to use my privat 600d in a professional manner too without ML. Same will happen to the cute little EOS M. :D
Hi everybody
this is my first message on this forum ; I am a professional photographer and filmmaker based in paris. I've been using magic lantern on my markII since 2009, when hero trammel hudson first pulled this crazy reverse engeneering stunt turning the markII into a revolutionary filmmaking tool.
so, first I want to thank him and all the developers who have taken on the project and given us this incredible tool.
I have been donating to the project to keep it going, and I'll go on doing so, since I have been using ML professionally and I can't be grateful enough to the people who gave their time and talent to develop it.
now, I've just bought the eos m, which is now an incredible deal due to canon's short-sighted marketing strategy, and I think that - once powered with a stable ML release - it is maybe the ultimate independent filmmaking tool, the only real competitor to the blackmagic pocket CC - for one fourth of the price...
now, i've installed the last version of ML on my eos m; it has several stability problems and I can't get the focus peaking to work, but these are obviously fixable problems. what is more annoying is that once you are in video mode and you have the ML interface on, the rear wheel only changes the shutter speed, and not the iris - I tried to figure out how to fix this, but I couldn't, so here I am asking for help. the only way to do this seems to switch to the canon interface and change the iris value from there, or from the ML menu, but this is impossible to do while shooting.
THEN I think I can contribute to the developmental effort by posting some sort of a professional's whishlist, i.e. ALL the features and ONLY the features somebody who needs to use the camera as a professional filmmaking tool needs.
here they are, then
1 first and foremost: focus peaking, as efficient as possible. this is absolutely necessary; this camera cannot be seriously used unless focus peaking works properly. all the other focus gimmicks are of no real filmmaking interest and can be dropped.
2 obviously : zebra stripes. but this already works.
3 direct iris control from the rear wheel while shooting. mandatory. I will note here that canon made a great improvement on the M, since the iris change is very smooth, very cinema-like, while on the mark II there is a very noticeable click - it is almost a markII signature...
4 audio monitoring working all the time - but I'll put this at the end of the list, since if you're shooting professionnally you'll have a field mixer to amplify the signal and monitor audio levels, plus a separate WAV recorder, and will only use the in-camera sound as a sync tool. Having said that, I read that the M records uncompressed PCM audio, so maybe a separate audio recordind and post-sync might be unnecessary. I'll have to make tests but if it's really the case then the eos m really is my daddy now.
that's about it, I guess. of course raw recording is an interesting feature, but of no real interest for the documentary filmmaker - the workflow becoming then almost unmanageable. if you really want to have a better image quality you might rather get a separate PRORES recorder, like the one from blackmagic, but going raw is only reasonable if you are shooting commercials of music video, or a theatrical feature, and in my opinion the eos m is not the best option for this kind of productions.
of course I'm not saying these are the only important features for any user, I'm just pointing out which are the features that matter to somebody who wants to shoot professional video with the eos M.
I think once these features are implemented and stable, documentary filmmakers will realize that the eos M is a real game changer, making high quality independent filmmaking available for everyone - for such a ridiculous price!
Quote from: enricobartolucci on September 15, 2013, 12:42:42 PM
Hi everybody... what is more annoying is that once you are in video mode and you have the ML interface on, the rear wheel only changes the shutter speed, and not the iris - I tried to figure out how to fix this, but I couldn't, so here I am asking for help. the only way to do this seems to switch to the canon interface and change the iris value from there, or from the ML menu, but this is impossible to do while shooting...
you can press the right arrow (the right side of the wheel) to switch between controlling the aperture and the shutter adjustment. I have requested that they change the way this is displayed since we never know which mode will be adjusted. I constantly keep having to try it and see which mode changes and then readjust it if it was on the wrong one from what I wanted. The Canon display is nice with the green marks above either the aperture or shutter indicating which one is active.
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on September 15, 2013, 01:22:43 PM
you can press the right arrow (the right side of the wheel) to switch between controlling the aperture and the shutter adjustment. I have requested that they change the way this is displayed since we never know which mode will be adjusted. I constantly keep having to try it and see which mode changes and then readjust it if it was on the wrong one from what I wanted. The Canon display is nice with the green marks above either the aperture or shutter indicating which one is active.
Gary
thanks gary, I hadn't done enough fiddling around to find the right key !
Hey guys, as far as focus peaking. I've had more luck with DIGIC peaking, but it obscures colors. it spares the battery, which has been a big problem with the EOS M for me. I carry 3 batteries with me and i think i lost one :(
Quote from: a1ex on September 15, 2013, 08:15:25 AM
Maybe bumping was not the best word for this. Anyone can suggest a better word? Adding the word "politely" while still asking for the same thing over and over doesn't help much.
I gave you the warning, and it was not a personal attack, but a hint that you should read the forum rules.
"Rules" imply you have a common goal. I don't know what that is here. Everyone has their own idea of what the goal is. Some, to make these production ready cameras, others to experiment with new features, others to protect the devs from stupid questions, I could go on....
I've watched Gary struggle with the 18-55 M shutter big with others, spending a lot of time and effort it trying to figure it out. Giving him a warning and then saying it "isn't personal" is condescending. Who are you to say what is personal and what isn't? "It isn't personal." I hear that from other moderators and I have to say it's immature. Everything is personal. Is it okay if I say that you are disrespectful and YOU have not read enough of Gary's posts to give him due respect. Is it okay if I say that and then excuse it by saying it "isn't personal"? If you think what you said to Gary is anything but condescending you should ask yourself, "how am I feeling reading these words Max wrote?"
Stand behind what you think. If YOU think all his posts are bothering you tell him directly. Just say, "Gary, I don't think you're going to get an answer about the audio monitor so I'd just let it go." Recognize his problem. Or, you might say "1%, can you please give some sort of estimate about how feasible it is because it seems it's very important to him" Propose a solution. Is the best solution really a variant of "shut up"?
I'm sorry if this sounds like I"m attacking you. But shouldn't you have feedback? My feedback is everything is personal. IF you don't mind losing people from the forum, like Gary, me, and others, then continue your work as a moderator who can dish it but can't take it (because you you have the power to ban). If your goal is to further ML use and development and enjoyment, then you might want to take it personally, in a positive way, that you are our host.
Help us have a good time. And by the way, I don't expect that this email will make me any friends. I've taken the time to share my scripts, videos, and help others. Why? Because I'm "personally" obsessed with it. What you want to take away is the very thing that keeps us here. All of us, I believe.
Finally, I often wonder what happened to the guys who wrote Pink Dot remover, RAWanizer, etc. Why are they gone? My conjecture is they didn't leave because they were reprimanded, but because others leave, because they don't feel welcome, and that the chaotic nature of these forums stops ML from getting a critical mass where people who do interesting stuff can get the consistent positive feedback they need to stay around and keep at.
For every me, who speaks my mind, there are probably many others who just silently don't like the tone of these forums and leave without a word.
Yes, this is personal, but I hope you find it respectful Alex. This matters to me. Gary matters to me. You matter to me. Seriously.
I actually read/wrote audio regs the first time (corectly I think) from 6D and EOSM follows the same pattern + has a data sheet. So we're getting closer to headphone.
Not straightforward at all to do some of this stuff. Its not that I'm not listening, just maybe I don't have a solution yet. If you ask again, what should I reply, "no not yet" over and over?
600D and M do get a little bit of the short stick right now because:
A. There are other more capable cameras with "low hanging fruit" reverse engineering that had to be done.
B. I can take along one camera, maybe 2, at a time to test in real world usage... not sitting on the couch snapping pics out the window.
If you think thats not fast enough... 7D didn't have audio controls for how many YEARS... or other basic features? Maybe everyone looked at the code 1000xS and didn't figure it out and for sure much better programmers than me. I know its frustrating when the only body you have doesn't do what you want but often this stuff takes time + luck and a lot of reading of assembly code/trial and error.
1%, first, thank you for the update. The last thing I want to do is be un-grateful, to you, Alex, or anyone who puts their time into this thing. Unfortunately, what's obvious to you isn't obvious to me (and others) and what's obvious to us isn't obvious to you. All I can speak about is what's frustrating to me.
I want to use the technology in a real world way and share what I know, what you've built, to others. For example, I did this video, that shows others how to use what you've done.
I've done many videos. I've staked out that part of the EOS-M ML world. Gary has been working on the audio stuff and lens compatibility. Alex must have his own areas of expertise.
Anyway, the simple truth is that without you and the other devs we're nothing. I NEVER forget that. However, I want to make best use of my time. I also don't want to embarrass myself any more than absolutely necessary ;)
When I did that video and then the PDR stopped working I felt a bit humiliated. I had tried to talk others into using something that was now broken. No one warned me. When I went to seek help on the PDR thread, the devs were gone. Thankfully, Rewind came to the rescue. Not blaming everyone, just explaining my frustration.
I've offered to help. Others have. I know the moderators are doing the best they can. I just feel these communication problems are hurting us all. How can I make things easier for myself?
I hate to criticize. I really just want to enjoy what you've built. It's just difficult when I know you can write a couple of sentences that would save me hours of ultimately wasted time. Again, not a complaint, just a frustration. Thanks for reading.
I've been there too and whats frustrating is answering the same question over and over again even when someone like you wrote a guide. Some just don't read it...
Anyways, i've made some progess, IC can read write and having both datasheets in my hand the regs are just moved around so *maybe* it will work when i fix the reg addresses.
Quote from: enricobartolucci on September 15, 2013, 12:42:42 PM
Hi everybody
this is my first message on this forum ; I am a professional photographer and filmmaker based in paris. I've been using magic lantern on my markII since 2009, when hero
very awesome, big welcome!
I don't mean to derail anyone's discussion, but I had just a couple of quick questions I'd like to ask really quickly:
First, is the download link on the first page up to date, or is there a more current version somewhere on these 71 pages of discussion I can find? Also, on the installation instruction page, it says that the page is not up to date; is there a more up to date link on how to install the newest version? I've used ML on my 60D, but that was some time ago, and I'm eager to start playing with it on my M.
Secondly, there are mainly two features that I'm interested in for ML, one of which I read on this page or the previous that there is a little bit of trouble with currently (focus peaking), but I'm not worried about it because I'm sure one of the incredibly intelligent developers will sort it out eventually, but what I haven't been able to find an answer for was whether this version will allow tethering. I would like to be able to plug my camera in to my tablet and use it for monitoring video. Is that an option, or is it in the works? I don't mean to rush anyone. I'm just curious.
Thank you, and I appreciate all of the development you guys are doing.
You'll find a working version without the infamous shutter bug here (for camera firmware 2.0.2)
Follow the instructions in the link, they work well, only you two-finger tap screen to bring up ML with EOS-M
Quote from: funkysound on September 12, 2013, 12:37:10 PM
Hi Wigglr,
sounds like a good idea to me.
If I remember it right it´s easy to do. You just download the compiled version from Rootwang (post #1110 on side 45) and do the normal ML instalation which you can find here (even if EOS M is not mentioned because there is no official version till now - the procedere is the same) :
http://www.magiclantern.fm/install.html
Malakai explaned it too.
Edit, here is the link in post 1110 http://www.sendspace.com/file/37061u
First, I apologize that I have had a few drinks (biz related). I've started a page on how to install/re-install ML on the EOS-M. I've also created a page for my vbscripts that apply to all RAW. Maybe we can all get together and create certain MAN pages for the EOS-M that cover, what it can, cannot do. What 1% is working on, or not working on, an why. I love what 1% has done for the EOS-M camera an am very appreciative that he has not taken any post badly and is making an effort to help us lately. Off the top of my head, I'm thinking of
1. INSTALLATION: Install/re-install ML (I've started a page on this, but we need links).
2. FEATURES: What we can expect, not expect on the EOS-M (1%?)
3. TESTING: What we can test, or how we can make ourselves to 1% if he needs us to test/try something? The M IS lens issue? Etc.
4. DOWNLOADS: What files one can download, ML, PDR, etc., and some up-dated explanation of what does what. I think this the most needed for newbies?
4. BEST PRACTICES?
5. EQUIPMENT: Too much shake with crop mode wth 22mm, but I find the EF 10-20mm good, etc.
6. NEWBIE POLICY: How do we welcome new members and get them up to speed as quickly as possible without telling them to search the forum from scratch?
Alex, do you think we should fork this EOS-M thread into sub-EOS-M topics? (An efficient way to answer imsofinite's questions?) I think it would be productive if we can provide a link of pages that answer any question. Even today, I don't know which is the most stable download for EOS-M, or which would be the best for dual-ISO, etc. We don't have a separate thread for audio or the IS M lens issue (WiGglr, not sure this issue is truly solved?)
Thanks for your time.
I think it would be good, especially for noobs, that the first page, first post be constantly updated so its easy to see and download the latest build along with simple step by step instructions to install and start using the ML menus. Over and over and over (LOL) we tell people how to two finger tap the screen to start using ML And maybe have an alternative download on the first page/post to get to the last most stable build to start off their venture.
I agree the rootwang load did not solve the shutter bug, at least not for me. I think the people who say they do not have the bug will eventually get it if they go thru and use all the builds on their camera. Two days ago I started all over. I did a Canon format method that gives us the option to delete ML I then did a quick computer format and put it back in the camera and a new Canon format. I was surprised to see the bug still existed after all of that with no ML on the card. I then did a new computer format on my card, the long way that took almost two hours with my 128 GB card. I reinstalled the Canon 2.0.2 firmware again and the bug was gone. But, I then installed the latest ML files on the card just from drag and drop and I did not flash the ML firmware to install it on the camera and the bug showed up again just from having the ML files on the disk. The ML menus did not come up. so ML was not being used. Very strange.
Gary
http://www.bot-fly.com/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep15.EOSM202.zip
newer build with the audio regs 1% was talking about
not sure if this makes a diff =D
edit: i want to take this opportunity to remind everyone that this is an alpha build and may set your camera on fire. use at your own risk. i don't want to find out why this fork is called "Tragic Lantern"
-poor student
In the interest of creating a 1st page that always has our latest knowledge, like Gary suggested, can we start a new "Beta" thread? Your thoughts, 1%? Except for the shutter bug issue the latest build I have from 1% works very well for me. I use either the 22mm or EF lens with adapter. If everyone agreed, perhaps we could decide on having those first few pages man pages that each of us could be responsible for? If, we think we can fix the shutter bug, which I believe is the biggest outstanding issue, maybe we can all rally to fix that and start the beta. Most people who would/do buy this camera get it with that lens.
That's what sucks, its a lens that comes with it....
If you guys can figure out how to edit the first pages sure. I'm not a mod so I don't have access to that. BTW digic peaking while recording causes issues with H264 videos stopping, so if your videos aren't finishing turn it off till I make it do that by itself.
Thanks for all of the help, guys. I installed it with no issues and played around with it for a while, and it seems reasonably stable. Although, is it just me, or is focus tracking slowed down a bit (around the speed of the original firmware) with ML running? Also, and I really don't meant to be a bother about this, but is getting a working tethering function on this camera in the works at all? I noticed a couple of other inquiries about it a while ago, and they seemed to go unanswered as well, so I was just wondering. Anyway, thanks for the help and all of the development. You guys have done a great job with this.
I do think an updated page dedicated to the current version and installation process would be helpful, as well as a list of currently working features and features that are being worked on.
As I have a new born child...I'm watching time to time what's new ! but it is going quite fast...and ML needs a bit of time so I'm not Up up uptodate some times...
So we would have the audio monitoring ? :) ??
Very good Idea to make a EOSM for noobs AND Advanced ! If I can help in writing (procedure or video fundamentals...not writing prog... :P) or testing or file hosting (via my dropbox) I'll be glad !
I've put this morning :
[EOSM]FullbackADTGui[EOSM]
Is it the last one ?
By the way I had a little bug on .mov shooting :
On the upper tight side I had a little icon (like a thermometer) with 3 or 4 square appearing and then a message with "your video has been stopped"or something like that...
In a canon graphical style I think more than a ML style menu...
I had one time or two this message with the previous ML I had...This morning I think I had it 4 times...the first reboot didn't solve...
With a few reboot it stops...
Did some you had this ? What is the cause ?
I'll try to take a pic of the thing...
AGAIN Thanks for what you all do !
I must go to work...so next time for more !
Quote from: vprocessing on September 16, 2013, 10:11:38 AM
As I have a new born child...I'm watching time to time what's new ! but it is going quite fast...and ML needs a bit of time so I'm not Up up uptodate some times...
So we would have the audio monitoring ? :) ??
Very good Idea to make a EOSM for noobs AND Advanced ! If I can help in writing (procedure or video fundamentals...not writing prog... :P) or testing or file hosting (via my dropbox) I'll be glad !
I've put this morning :
[EOSM]FullbackADTGui[EOSM]
Is it the last one ?
By the way I had a little bug on .mov shooting :
On the upper tight side I had a little icon (like a thermometer) with 3 or 4 square appearing and then a message with "your video has been stopped"or something like that...
In a canon graphical style I think more than a ML style menu...
I had one time or two this message with the previous ML I had...This morning I think I had it 4 times...the first reboot didn't solve...
With a few reboot it stops...
Did some you had this ? What is the cause ?
I'll try to take a pic of the thing...
AGAIN Thanks for what you all do !
I must go to work...so next time for more !
The FullbackADTGui is the latest build that 1% has put up.
As for the mov bug, its not a bug, its from the canon firmware, telling you the buffer it uses between the camera and your card.
It stops recording due to the write speed of your card. If the speed of your card is too slow then the buffer fills up, when it hits the top it cant write any more to the card and then stops the recording. If you have the bitrate mod set too high for your card this can cause it to fill the buffer faster. What class is your card? I recommend a minimum of class 10 when using ML and recording video to minimise problems while recording. From experience, anything lower and you may get stopped video every now and then, not good when you are trying to capture something.
Quote from: vprocessing on September 16, 2013, 10:11:38 AM
As I have a new born child...I'm watching time to time what's new ! but it is going quite fast...and ML needs a bit of time so I'm not Up up uptodate some times...
So we would have the audio monitoring ? :) ??
Very good Idea to make a EOSM for noobs AND Advanced ! If I can help in writing (procedure or video fundamentals...not writing prog... :P) or testing or file hosting (via my dropbox) I'll be glad !
I've put this morning :
[EOSM]FullbackADTGui[EOSM]
Is it the last one ?
By the way I had a little bug on .mov shooting :
On the upper tight side I had a little icon (like a thermometer) with 3 or 4 square appearing and then a message with "your video has been stopped"or something like that...
In a canon graphical style I think more than a ML style menu...
I had one time or two this message with the previous ML I had...This morning I think I had it 4 times...the first reboot didn't solve...
With a few reboot it stops...
Did some you had this ? What is the cause ?
I'll try to take a pic of the thing...
AGAIN Thanks for what you all do !
I must go to work...so next time for more !
Congratulations on your new born. :) Boy or girl? What did you name your child?
I think magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep15.EOSM202 is the latest build. That is what I Just put on my card and it runs the same as far as I can see so far. Look at reply 1763 from Jerrykil
Gary
Cheers Gary, forgot about that build, the one I referred to was 1%'s build.
Congratulations too, forgot to put it in my post lol
Anyone care to talk about PDR and how it is not always working with raw movies we make on the M? I have two versions of PDR. Both appear to not always work now at different times. If I shoot crop mode, the latest version of PDR usually works and the previous version 8 was leaving some ghosting of pink dots. When I shoot non crop, I now can't get the latest version of PDR to work and it always pops up an error message saying a file is bad and then none of the files get corrected. I try the previous version 8 and it goes through with no errors, but all the pink dots are still there. Hmm. Everything keeps changing. how are we suppose to do any raw recording now if we have pink dots? Can the the pdr devs come back? I think mixer2 was doing pdr at some point.
Gary
Malakai,
Are you in Hawaii? I used to live in Hawaii Kai.
Cheers 2u2
Gary
No mate, England, Midlands :)
Please stay on topic. The thread is already too long and should stay focused on development.
yes sir
Discovered a weird thing and thought I'd share. Shot some h264 footage with the camera's res. set to 1080p 29.97fps using fps override at 23.97fps. Brought into Premiere where it was interpreting the footage at 29.97fps; had to reinterpret footage at desired frame rate to obtain correct speed. What I brought away from this was that fps override affects shooting, but not file transcoding?
http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/userguide#fps_override
QuoteThis function will not change the frame rate from the video header; the video will playback at the setting from Canon menu.
Wow :) wow ;D
Made a video of my wife sitting at the dinner table. When she saw the RAW video she cursed me like hell (black and white and jerky). I then rendered the footage upscale to 1920 x 1080. What resulted is out of this world.
She looks like she will come out of the screen. Really the EOS M with the Sept 15 build is super awesome.
MLV does not work still. Pressing the menu or LV button does not trigger shooting.
But I can wait since RAW is super good enough for me for now.
Quote from: Malakai on September 16, 2013, 11:27:32 AM
What class is your card? I recommend a minimum of class 10 when using ML and recording video to minimise problems while recording. From experience, anything lower and you may get stopped video every now and then, not good when you are trying to capture something.
It's Sandisk Class 10 UHS 1 95MB/Sec that I bought for RAW...
By the way before I got this fast card I tried with
TRANSCEND 16Go Class 10 : no continous shooting in RAW
SANDISK Extreme Class Pro 10 UHS 1 45Mb/s : no continous shooting in RAW
SANDISK Extreme HD Video Class 10 30Mb/s : Seemed OK for RAW when I was testing
All this seems a little weird...
I did think it was a speed issue as it couldn't be heat...
I was in 1x bitrate...
I don"t have the cable but audio monitoring is enabled ?
I had a daughter she's a little Nina ! ::)
Hey y'all,
unless %1 or a1ex or some mod objects, I will put my nightly builds into http://ml.bot-fly.com and keep it open to the public. it took me a long time to put that ascii art together, so i hope no one objects! also think it will keep my "i built hte latest from the devs but i'm not sure if it works" posts to a minimum!
thanks
I'm all for it, I don't have a reliable enough connection to autobuild and upload, plus bitbucket already hates how many files I upload, the filedropper links die and not everyone can download off of mega.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 16, 2013, 11:56:31 PM
Hey y'all,
unless %1 or a1ex or some mod objects, I will put my nightly builds into http://ml.bot-fly.com and keep it open to the public. it took me a long time to put that ascii art together, so i hope no one objects! also think it will keep my "i built hte latest from the devs but i'm not sure if it works" posts to a minimum!
thanks
ASCII art awesome!
Can you creates some builds that you believe are the most stable? Or can you document what's up there a little bit? This is the thing that drives everyone the most nuts (or at least me). It seems there is a possibility that one build, or a combination of them, might fix the "shutter bug". No matter what, THANKS!!!!
I'm working on a single process app for the EOS-M RAW files, using ufRAW as the PDR. Hope to have that ready in a week or so.
Quote from: maxotics on September 17, 2013, 02:21:42 AM
ASCII art awesome!
Can you creates some builds that you believe are the most stable? Or can you document what's up there a little bit? This is the thing that drives everyone the most nuts (or at least me). It seems there is a possibility that one build, or a combination of them, might fix the "shutter bug". No matter what, THANKS!!!!
I'm working on a single process app for the EOS-M RAW files, using ufRAW as the PDR. Hope to have that ready in a week or so.
the shutter bug still exists on even the latest build that is posted there. I have been working a lot on that bug all day and all of last night. What is very strange is that bug still exists "even" when I remove all the ML files from my 128GB card. I then tried my older 32 GB card that is clean without having any ML files and the bug is gone. Both my EFM lenses work perfectly with the M and that 32 GB card. I then put my 128GB card that still has no ML files (I even formatted it to make sure) and the bug is back. I have tried formatting that card a dozen times or more over the last 24 hours. I was up all night working on it, amongst some other things like raw and pink dots. I even tried flashing the Canon 2.0.2 firmware again and the bug won't go away. Logic says that ML caused something on that one card to create this bug and something is somehow "still there" but I can't see anything or remove anything else. I made a call to the card manufacturer, Komputerbay, to see if they can fix/replace the card and tell me what is wrong. The card is only two months old. I think someone online said they had a problem with their Komputerbay card and that Komputerbay was nice about it. I think they said it was older firmware on the card and they gave him a new card with newer firmware. I am not sure or remember the exact details. I will hopefully hear from them in the next two days.
Very strange this ML, bug and card thing.
Gary
Quote from: maxotics on September 17, 2013, 02:21:42 AM
I'm working on a single process app for the EOS-M RAW files, using ufRAW as the PDR. Hope to have that ready in a week or so.
Max, funny you say this. I just told my wife 20 minutes ago about how we need someone to make an all in one app. I explained to her the current workflow and all the steps involved to just start editing. She has an interest in all of this and asks me about what is going on.
I hope you get it going. The whole workflow is a PIA now. I hope to just shoot raw someday, hopefully with audio and then take the card out and transfer the raw files through my USB 3.0 port to some app that does all the PDR work and creates DNGs and uncompressed full TIFs in new, named folders. Premiere Pro will have import for DNG file sequences in an update on October 15th. I asked Adobe about importing DNG's and I just got an email from a rep a few hours ago telling me the good news.
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on September 17, 2013, 03:12:19 AM
I then put that 128GB card back into the camera and the bug is back.
Oh its a pain. I have problems getting the bug on my camera. Your card observation is interesting. Maybe Canon changes something up with their boot flags. We know now that you don't need to use EOSCard to prepare your card to run custom applications on the EOS M. Could it be that EOSCard changes are partially responsible for the bug? I don't know enough bout all that, but an easy way to check is to run your EOSCard again and turn off all the options. I am on a mac, so the utility doesn't quite work in Wine.
Nanomad was kind enough to work with me on the bug a couple days ago. I had an issue because i am not able to reliably reproduce the bug. If you are able to reliably reproduce the bug, and then have fix for it (such as changing cards), then that would help isolate whats actually going on. Basically nanomad said the best way to make dm.log would be to start the cam, without doing much on it, start the dm.log and then fire the shutter several times and then turn off the dm log. do not remove the card or turn off the cam if you see that the red light is on, because its probably still doing its thing.
keep up the good sleuthing :P
Quote from: jerrykil on September 17, 2013, 04:39:39 AM
Oh its a pain. I have problems getting the bug on my camera. Your card observation is interesting. Maybe Canon changes something up with their boot flags. We know now that you don't need to use EOSCard to prepare your card to run custom applications on the EOS M. Could it be that EOSCard changes are partially responsible for the bug? I don't know enough bout all that, but an easy way to check is to run your EOSCard again and turn off all the options. I am on a mac, so the utility doesn't quite work in Wine.
Nanomad was kind enough to work with me on the bug a couple days ago. I had an issue because i am not able to reliably reproduce the bug. If you are able to reliably reproduce the bug, and then have fix for it (such as changing cards), then that would help isolate whats actually going on. Basically nanomad said the best way to make dm.log would be to start the cam, without doing much on it, start the dm.log and then fire the shutter several times and then turn off the dm log. do not remove the card or turn off the cam if you see that the red light is on, because its probably still doing its thing.
keep up the good sleuthing :P
I did try eoscard a few times, but not without checking the items as you suggest. I will try wehat you day now. We have done the dm logs before and I think 1% said he loctaed a section that was different between bug and no bu logs. I can try the log again too and get back with the link to the log and what I find.
I am just so baffled of what is on that card doing this. I do see in Windows Disk Management looking at this 128 GB card that there is a small, 16 MB partition that says Unallocated. I can't delete or format that section. All the options are greyed out for it. I can only format the main 119 GB partition. This might be the problem. what might possibly be there in that 16 MB area and how did it get there? How can I get rid of it and regain back that small section and format it with the rest of the Healthy partition? Usually we have a delete Volume and then I can make a new volume as one. I just thought now that maybe that section was made at the factory and that is where Komputerbay has their firmware and we can't touch it??
Gary
Edit-I can reliably reproduce the bug and I have isolated down to that one card and ML. The card worked before ML but I did not have the efm 18-55 lens back then. I was not aware of the bug until I bought the lens recently. Your method of running eoscard again with nothing checked off did not work. The bug is still there.
Gary,
so I'm not completely following. I don't really understand what card before ML means or the significance of that. Is that the card that does not illicit a bug. Does it have ML on it now? Did you run the EOSCard utility on it at any point?
In EOSCard, can you try to press alt+f on the card to do a format, then place ml back on it and see if the shutter bug is there.
As for DM logs. I cannot find your posted DM log in your post history, but i see lots of smileys. Kind of scary. I remember that malakai and I had a SW1 call that you did not. this is why I was confused. Your log, if i recall, did not have any shutter logged.
If you are able to use ML with the bug then use your card fix and use ML without the bug, please post your dm logs.
thanks
1%, i could automate nightlies easily. i have a problem right now where i have to disable mlv_rec in order to build the zip package. is there any way you could include that lzma folder for mlv_rec to compile for us?
jerry
edit: to clarify DM.logs before and after your reliable fix with several shutter presses. thanks again
Doesn't the EOScard utility sometimes put on a stable version of ML instead of the one we want? That is, the EOScard utility may be gumming things up for you? I doubt that's the problem, just throwing it out there.
As for my batch programming. I have the skeleton done, unfortunately, ufRAW is not getting all the dots out of the video I'm testing with. So much for that theory. I could create a call to PDR but I don't trust it. Sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. And even when it works, if there's a clipped part of the video the dots return, even for my 50D. So I believe we have to pursue a different bad pixel strategy. I guess I'll go at it again. I tried some Python stuff, but image libraries for Python have issues (PIL and PILLOW). So will probably do something in .NET. I really don't want to do this hard-core (for me) development.
BTW, my strategy is to create .BAT files that extract the DNG files from the RAW or MLV file, create TIFFs, fix dot issues (or other things), then create a close-to-DNG/TIFF quality video using ffmpeg. I've had some success creating H.264 videos with a 422 color space. Then there is prores. Cineform 422 is nice, if anyone knows how to create those with TIFFs let me know. Anyway, I think I can ultimately convert the RAW files into quality clips good enough for me.
Fast processing, audio issues, the dots, more shooting experiments, etc., are more important to me than color grading.
That's my latest.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 17, 2013, 05:23:51 AM
Gary,
so I'm not completely following. I don't really understand what card before ML means or the significance of that. Is that the card that does not illicit a bug. Does it have ML on it now? Did you run the EOSCard utility on it at any point?
In EOSCard, can you try to press alt+f on the card to do a format, then place ml back on it and see if the shutter bug is there.
As for DM logs. I cannot find your posted DM log in your post history, but i see lots of smileys. Kind of scary. I remember that malakai and I had a SW1 call that you did not. this is why I was confused. Your log, if i recall, did not have any shutter logged.
If you are able to use ML with the bug then use your card fix and use ML without the bug, please post your dm logs.
thanks
1%, i could automate nightlies easily. i have a problem right now where i have to disable mlv_rec in order to build the zip package. is there any way you could include that lzma folder for mlv_rec to compile for us?
jerry
edit: to clarify DM.logs before and after your reliable fix with several shutter presses. thanks again
Jerry,
"I don't really understand what card before ML" I meant the cards before I installed any ML on them when I first got my camera two months ago.
I will try and explain the cards. The other things I will try as soon as my 126Gb card finishes the long windows format (not the quick format)
I have two cards I bought two months ago when I bought my camera with only the 22mm lens. I got a 32 gb card and a 128 gb card. The 128 gb writes at 60 and reads at 90. The 32 gb writes at 15 and reads at 30. I then got into ML soo9n after that and I had a problem with getting the 128 gb to work and someone on here said to use EOScard and then it did work.
I bought the 18-55 lens with IS maybe three or two weeks ago and that is when I became aware of the shutter bug. I was using both cards back then with ML and doing all the updates until the latest as of now.
I tried to go clean back tojust Canon about a week ago by deleting all the ML files the proper way with using Canon format and tapping the screen to select "delete the ML files". I also formatted both cards trying to get them completely clean. The 32 gb card did get clean and it now does work without the bug and it has no ML installed anywhere on it that I know of. The 128 gb card appears to still have the bug even though I tried many many times to format it to clean it. Even your suggestion of doing eoscard again did not work. I will try what you just suggested again about eoscard using alt F.
You are right about the dm logs and the sw1 calls. I am afraid to install ML now on the 32 gb card since it is working. so i can't do a DM log with it since ML is not on it. If it is really important, then tell me and I will try it again and hopefully be able to recover from ML on it if needed. I think you may also be correct about eoscard. I have installed eoscard a few times during this whole ML journey. eoscard is the difference between my 32 and 128 cards. the 32 never needed eoscard.
I tried mlv and 1% said it was not worth it and suggested I uninstall the mlv module. I do not understand what you mean when you said include that lzma folder for mlv_rec to compile for us?
what is the lzma folder?
ok, i will now try to do what you have asked and get back. Thanx for all your help on this. I do feel we are close.
gary
Quote from: maxotics on September 17, 2013, 05:25:07 AM
Fast processing, audio issues, the dots, more shooting experiments, etc., are more important to me than color grading.
That's my latest.
you will always have to do some sort of grade when shooting raw cus the image from raw is noisy and very flat looking when shot correctly. It needs some tweaks as well as the PDR.
Gary
Jerry, I just finished the long format on the 128 gb card. I ran eoscard with no options selected and hit alt f and the did a quick format. I then installed ML back on the card. I used the rootwang version and the common fir file we all have used. I turned on the camera, started all the modules, i started the dm lof, i pressed the shutter five times trying to take a picture in the pic Manual mode and the bug was there. I stopped the dm log and turned off the camera. here is the link to the dm log file
https://www.transferbigfiles.com/b9b4d4ac-4221-4a05-bcb7-40ddcb770525/B1x4l3REwLqBrfm8KWxhhw2
Gary
Gary,
just to be clear, i have a couple more questions.
128GB:
ML installed
Shutter bug
32GB:
ML no longer installed
With ML: shutter bug
Without ML: no shutter bug
is that correct? sorry its hard for me to follow. i may be tired...i'm very tired, so i apologize if this is redundant.
Gary, i don't think it matters which build of ML you are using. i have the latest and greatest ones on http://ml.bot-fly.com and they are as good as any.
here are the links
http://ml.bot-fly.com/EOSM1202.FIR
http://ml.bot-fly.com/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep17.EOSM202.zip
extract the zip to the card and put the .FIR in there to run the firmware update
everything is correct bexcept for knowing if the bug was there when using the 32gb card. I have been only using the 128 gb card for a long time. Let me try ML on the 32gb card and see if the bug is then there.
gary
Quote from: gary2013 on September 17, 2013, 06:31:41 AM
Jerry, I just finished the long format on the 128 gb card. I ran eoscard with no options selected and hit alt f and the did a quick format. I then installed ML back on the card. I used the rootwang version and the common fir file we all have used. I turned on the camera, started all the modules, i started the dm lof, i pressed the shutter five times trying to take a picture in the pic Manual mode and the bug was there. I stopped the dm log and turned off the camera. here is the link to the dm log file
https://www.transferbigfiles.com/b9b4d4ac-4221-4a05-bcb7-40ddcb770525/B1x4l3REwLqBrfm8KWxhhw2
Gary
I don't see the SW1 triggering in there nor the Cancel messages that seem to be associated. No idea what this means, but it seems that your bug may be different.
good news. i put the rootwang version on my clean 32 gb card and flashed it and tried taking pics with a few times of on and off and on again waiting 10 secinds between each cycle and no bug.
so, it now looks like it is just down toi using cards bigger than 32 gb and also the eoscard. like when I started out here two months ago.
another big question? then why did the other people with the same lens have the shutter bug like I did? ?
we will need to be able to shoot with cards larger than 32 gb, especially witrh raw.
gary
Oh! sorry. gary, don't turn on anything when you start the cam. just start the camera, start dmlog, snap a few/try to snap, stop dmlog. and gimme. what happens is the dmlog buffer fills up and i'm not sure but it looks like your log is cut off at the end
when we install ml the first time all the modules are off. i turned them on so now they are all on. i did the steps you say. what now? turn them all off and then do a dm log?
gary
yes keep them off, just so there are less miscellanies things in the logs
Hey guys,
I made a new thread, just cuz this is getting long:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8347.new#new
see ya there!
here is the new log file. careful, it has the same name as the previous file.
https://www.transferbigfiles.com/8ae50076-f3b1-4f6e-b0dc-362ebae15d02/5L2sa7GwJXqvFBHL_iIbIg2
this is the 128gb card with ml and all the modules were off when i turned the camera on. i made five attempts pressing the shutter button to take pics at a slow pace and the bug is keeping me from taking the pics.
gary
Quote from: jerrykil on September 17, 2013, 06:35:59 AM
Gary, i don't think it matters which build of ML you are using. i have the latest and greatest ones on http://ml.bot-fly.com and they are as good as any.
here are the links
http://ml.bot-fly.com/EOSM1202.FIR
http://ml.bot-fly.com/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep17.EOSM202.zip
extract the zip to the card and put the .FIR in there to run the firmware update
How did you compile signed fir?
i didn't. am i in trouble? :P
Quote from: jerrykil on September 17, 2013, 07:37:14 AM
i didn't. am i in trouble? :P
You are now. I've just notified canon's lawyers.
Heres a question. With ML on the EOS M. Would it be possible to have custom picture style files saved on the memory card and update the picture styles on the camera without having to do it via a computer?
Quote from: Malakai on September 17, 2013, 02:48:48 PM
Heres a question. With ML on the EOS M. Would it be possible to have custom picture style files saved on the memory card and update the picture styles on the camera without having to do it via a computer?
No.
I asked this on the feature request part and it's pretty much can't be done.
Quote from: feureau on September 17, 2013, 03:03:56 PM
No.
I asked this on the feature request part and it's pretty much can't be done.
lol thanks :D
I have a question about crop mode. This is a perfect tool I can use C mount lenses on Eos-M (the only canon eos camera can do that) however I end up with small AF points all over the image . I can remove the af points in regular Raw mode with pinkdotremover but this doesn't work in crop mode. The dots are there unfortunately all over the image, the crop mode will be great otherwise, less moire/aliasing. The other issue with crop mode is that I cant record higher resolution than 1280 x720 24p on my Sandisk extreme PRO 16gb card. Am I doing something wrong is there any way how I can rid off those af points Thank you for you hard work
http://vimeo.com/74731021
<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/74731021" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p>Comp 1 (http://vimeo.com/74731021) from Pizmon (http://vimeo.com/user20909945) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com).</p>
@pizmon
I've been struggling with this issue for awhile, in fact, working on it when I saw your message!
You can read some of this discussion between Rewind and I at these two start points
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg73969#msg73969
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8171.msg74860#msg74860
The problem re-appears
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8171.msg74439#msg74439
Yes, the c-mount lenses are fun. Please give any insight you have on this forum. I use the Fujian, but haven't tried others.
Rewind did a new version of PDR that deal with crop mode, the link is here. Hopefully this will solve your problem.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg74097#msg74097
I calculate the dots take up about 4.4% of crop mode image. However, when effectively removed, don't seem to hurt image to me.
Yes, 1280x720 at 24p is the most you can expect. Limitations of how fast the EOS-M can write to the SD card. I have a 50D where I can go 1080 at 20fps. The image isn't that much better than the 720p EOS-M. Also, it has 5x crop mode where the EOS-M can do a lighter crop because sensor is closer to lens.
Glad you've come on board!
Thank you maxotics! I will try pdr rewind . I just bought Switar 10mm 1.6 I will post something as soon as will get the lens. If 1280 x720 is related to writing speed of the card this alone should not be entirely bad news. I believe/hope :) there will be faster SD cards announced soon. Lets see and hope .
Thank you again I will post some video with switar once i get the lens
Quote from: pizmon on September 17, 2013, 07:44:27 PM
If 1280 x720 is related to writing speed of the card this alone should not be entirely bad news. I believe/hope :) there will be faster SD cards announced soon. Lets see and hope .
Hi pizmon
I´m afraid it has got nothing to do with the speed of the card - the EOS M writer/reader isn´t fast enough. Around 45 mbits if I remember it right.
Quote from: funkysound on September 17, 2013, 08:28:06 PM
Hi pizmon
I´m afraid it has got nothing to do with the speed of the card - the EOS M writer/reader isn´t fast enough. Around 45 mbits if I remember it right.
I am now having to look for a new card unless we can get some fix for using 128 gb cards/60 mb write speeds to work with or without the eoscard.exe utility to avoid the shutter bug. Is it official now that the camera will only need a card that does 40 mb write speed? And that anything faster is not needed since the camera can only write that fast? would a 45 or 50 write speed card make any difference? what is the exact minimum we can buy since the price will make a difference when buying cards.
gary
My recorded footage is between 80-100mbps on a MyMemory class 10 UHS 1 card with ML bitrate set to 2.1x... but thats not capturing RAW.
IMHO i think the read/write speed of the camera is classed at least UHS 1 because anything over 100mbps and I get buffer issues and recording stops. Canon probably limit the capture bitrate to 45mbps and use the buffer to ensure there are less issues recording on slower cards. They should at least let you choose from a few pre-set bitrates. Just in case you have a faster card.
Am i right in saying that the EOS M only has a small (56mb) internal buffer. Perhaps this could be the bottleneck?
Everyone who is new to this, including myself, confuses BITS and BYTES
MBs/sec (megaBYTES per second) 8,000,000 bits per second. mbits/sec (mega BITs) 1,048,576 bits per second. 1280x720 24fps runs close to 39 megaBYTES (not bits) per second (39 x 8 or around 312mbits in your current frame of reference). The class 10 cards will NOT record RAW at any meaningful resolution because they write at about 10 megabytes per second (80 megaBITS not megaBYTES). Even the 30MBs cards won't do 1280x720.
Yes, 60 seconds of RAW video will take up over 2 gigabytes of space! You need the cards that generally cost about $30/16GB 95MBs/sec cards. Yes, the CAMERA CAN'T WRITE ABOVE 40MBS (you can fantasize, but I wouldn't, that it will change for this camera). The 30MBS cards are too slow, the 45BBS cards are probably okay, but are probably not being manufactured much and price not much difference than the Sandisk 95MBs. Also, some question if the 45MBS cards can always meet their published rating.
At least in germany the 45mb/s sandisk extreme cards cost just ~50% of the 95mb/s extreme pro cards (32,31 EUR vs 64,98 EUR für 32gb on amazon) and afaik they are fast enough. But if anyone has both, a direct comparison would be nice.
Are there still any problems with PDR? i'm not very active at the moment since i've to finish my diploma thesis until end of next week.
BTW latest ML version does crash for me while loading the modules. i use EOSM-COPY.zip (2013-09-04), mlv_rec.mo (2013-09-02), dual_iso.mo (2013-09-01) and all other files from [EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip (2013-08-30). don't know if that combination should work, but modules doesn't load for me at all.
Quote from: mixer2 on September 18, 2013, 04:01:04 PM
At least in germany the 45mb/s sandisk extreme cards cost just ~50% of the 95mb/s extreme pro cards (32,31 EUR vs 64,98 EUR für 32gb on amazon) and afaik they are fast enough. But if anyone has both, a direct comparison would be nice.
Are there still any problems with PDR? i'm not very active at the moment since i've to finish my diploma thesis until end of next week.
BTW latest ML version does crash for me while loading the modules. i use EOSM-COPY.zip (2013-09-04), mlv_rec.mo (2013-09-02), dual_iso.mo (2013-09-01) and all other files from [EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip (2013-08-30). don't know if that combination should work, but modules doesn't load for me at all.
I saw yesterday the Sansdisk 32gb 45 write for $30 and $60 for the 95 write in the US.
I have problems at first loading modules and it's different with each version. I have to keep trying with turning the camera off/on and then on and maybe after four tries it finally works for all modules. Sometimes I have to try changing a menu item that says modules off before they even show up. I don't remember exactly the procedure right now. I am away from the camera. Keeps trying and they eventually work.
I haven't changed my MLs on my cameras in weeks, fearing problems. We need to agree on some way of separating what are stable versions from the problematic. I don't want to change anything until I have a robust workflow, from filming to NLE.
Making progress on ffmpeg conversion of TIFFs to high quality clips.
Rewind, as you know, I don't think the PDR problem is fully solved. Your new crop mode version seems to be working. But now my non-crop doesn't. I'm working on a .NET app that I will open-source. Love your input when you have time, or interest!
I might try to learn Java and work on the existing PDR, but it'll be faster for me with .NET and my strategy of using static maps will mean that I would probably use less of the existing PDR code. Anyway, probably good to start from scratch, just to learn.
My current strategy is.
1. Focus camera on white wall and take some RAW.
2. Alter in image editor to turn background black.
3. Run through .NET code to mark each pixel that is a focus pixel. Most are in blocks of 9. There are also some single pixels used for focus or something.
4. Build static map of ALL sensor's focus pixels, which can, with the right x/y offset, map onto any image from camera.
Phase 1
1. Go through image, by row, col saving last good pixel, if reach bad pixel, mark replacement (previous good pixel). Yes, this will mean 3 focus pixels in a row will get same left-hand good pixel. My guess is this will, despite sounding rough (replacing 4.4% of pixels in crop mode), work visually.
Phase 2
1. While going through frame, check to see if center pixel is redder, bluer, or greener than pixel outside of focus block. As you know, focus pixels don't always fire. They only seem to do so on edges, clipped readings, etc.
2. If focus block seems active, then do a more robust interpolation around those 9 pixels (or 1 pixel).
Lots of questions! Anyway, that's where I am.
Well I bought a Sandisk extreme 45MB/s UHS-1 16GB on ebay for 19$, shipped. Seriously ebay is amazing for camera gear prices. It came new in sealed pack.
I'm a new user and need some advice. I have tried to browse the tens of pages about ML on the EOS-M but may have missed the obvious - so apologies up front.
I have a the latest Canon FW loaded and also have 22mm and the 11-22mm. I installed the ML version referred to by feureu (reply 1801). It works fine except in one particular instance.
a) in the Canon menu I set the Focus Method to AF.
b) in the ML menu I loaded the raw module and set raw in the video menu.
c) pressing the red record button shows that recording takes place. Pressing it again stops recording.
d) during RAW recording, pressing the shutter button half-way freezes the camera with the picture frozen on the screen and no record light flashing.
e) the on.off switch is also dead, so the only solution is to pull the battery.
f) this happens on the 22mm and 11-22mm lenses.
g) if the Focus Method in the Canon menu is set to Manual then the problem does not occur.
If already a known problem then I would appreciate a pointer where to look.
Hi! I am new to ML too (Long term user of CHDK).
The EOS M is my first larger sensor camera, and I am trying to make it into a stable intervalometer that just turns on, so I can bolt it onto a plane and collect aerial imagery. I read through other forum posts and saw that PicoC was/is implemented(ish) in ML, but is that the case for the EOS M alpha builds too? When I tried to put an autorun.c script in the /scripts directory on my EOS M install, (1) it didn't run and (2) I couldn't figure out how to even find it from the ML menus.
If the Picoc code isn't implemented, then is there any way to autostart the built-in intervalometer on boot up? If not, and I want to try to add it in, would I be able to access the source code for the ongoing alpha on the bitbucket link, or is it elsewhere?
I almost hate to admit it, but I am a scientist, not a photographer, so my only goal is to make it so when the camera is powered on, it starts taking pictures. Ideally it would just start taking pics at whatever the intervalometer is set at, but since I have the "shutter-bug" too, it's already more complicated than I hoped. And I have to make this simple enough that a pilot can get the camera up and running without me (I already have a Canon D10 doing this with CHDK, and got the EOS M because I am excited about the HUGE sensor, and the camera is small enough to fit in the wing of a Cessna 172).
Incidentally, my first post was over on the shutter-bug thread (http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8347.msg77034#msg77034) - I found a (pain-in-the-ass) workaround, and a repeatable way to both exhibit and bypass the shutter-bug, and it seems like that was something lacking so far.
I have the 18-55 mm lens, camera fw 2.02, lens fw 2.00 (never upgraded, my camera came with 2.02). ML on a Transcend SDHC Class 10 32 GB card
I installed magiclantern from these two files:
http://ml.bot-fly.com/EOSM1202.FIR
http://ml.bot-fly.com/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Sep17.EOSM202.zip
Anyway here's the baby script I am trying to run. Power saving and "yes I am working" indicators are in the wings but I want this to work first:/*
@title PlaneCam intervalometer
*/
//adapted from Francis' demo code on ML website
//http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5155.msg31568#msg31568
printf("Hello from PlaneCam!\n");
sleep(10); //Wait 10s before starting to take pics
for (int i = 0; i < 5000; i++) //Repeat the stuff below 5000 times or until there is no more power
{
takepic(); //Take a picture
sleep(3); //Wait 3 seconds
}
Andyroo,
i've been meaning to play with the scripting capability too. i get errors, however, if i try to run the tcc module. i'm not sure how to build the picoc module either. I read on some forum posts that picoc is being abandoned for tcc, anyway.
here are the errors i get with the tcc module:
(http://ml.bot-fly.com/misc/tcc_errors.bmp)
EDIT: so i searched forums for tinypy, and there isn't much posted about it. i can't get it to compile but i think its something up with module_strings.h. i don't know of any examples for using tinypy, either
Video raw crop 1280X720 200ISO PDR Rewind for EOS-M crop 25p
Canon Eos M + 22MM F2
Youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULLDo-i0m6I
Vimeo
https://vimeo.com/74902807
Quote from: DanyoO on September 19, 2013, 09:04:25 AM
Video raw crop 1280X720 200ISO PDR Rewind for EOS-M crop 25p
Nice video! What this guy performs is not an easy shit at all. He's a man.
But be careful, doubleposting is not much appreciated here ;)
I´ve found out that the older EOS M firmware had the video zoom option (3x to 10x) while retaining full hd quality, this was disabled in the latest firmware, is there a way for ML to re-enable this? Not in raw just plain h264. I know that raw uses this method when filming, but it would be nice to have also the h264 option when you don´t need that kind of quality.
Thanks 1% and a1ex and the others for all the great and hard work!
@DanyoO, very very nice! Did you used the original PDR or Rewind's fix? Also, can you can tell us more about your workflow? Thanks for sharing!
SORRY MY ENGLISH IS BAD :(
I USE FOR THE POINTS ROSE PDR Rewind for EOS-M crop
VIDEO 25FPS PAL
MY MEMORY (SANDISCK EXTREM PRO 95MB) 32GB
AND VIDEO 1280 X 720 CROP MODE
200ISO 22MM F2
DROBOX VIDEO RAW: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qcsz91y9hn2amoe/AIR%20FLARE%20DanyzoO.avi
:)
Danyo0 No problem! Your Video Skills are great :) Thanks for the info!
I sent Mixer2 a private message and about PDR issues and his response was so long and interesting I'm sure others will want to read it:
> Also, selfishly, I'd like to create a windows version so I can process my RAW files all in one batch. RAW -> DNG --> DotRemoval --> TIFF --> .MOV/Cineform, etc.
it's still a bad idea to directly convert to mov or cineform. some editors like adobe (after effects, premiere, speedgrade) or davinci resolve allow to open dng directly. in any case it's a good idea to use image sequences instead of normal video codecs. just because of compatibility reasons. for example if you want to do some vfx with programs like voodoo camera tracker, blender, slowmoVideo etc you'll get a lot of problems with video files.
my current workflow is:
raw -> dot removal -> raw2dng -> color correction and grading in darktable (like lightroom, but free) -> jpg -> noise removal -> (vfx if needed) -> cutting with lightworks -> encoding
of course this workflow isn't perfect, since color grading should be the last step. that would make vfx more simple to match the scene and noise removal would also work better. but the editors i use don't support dng and as soon as the dng is converted a lot of information needed for color grading is lost.
more simple is the adobe workflow that i use less, since i don't use much windows. there you can load the dng directly into premiere, do the noise removal and vfx in after effects and grade in speedgrade. then you don't have a forced fix order because of compatible formats and can do it just as it's best for the specific project.
a workflow with cinemadng format in davinci resolve maybe in combination with lightworks as nle should also work quite nice, but never tried. it may be the most professional one and is completely free if you use davinci resolve lite.
> 1. My analysis of the DNG files is inconclusive. Single pixels and blocks of 9 pixels may be used for focusing? Do the RAW files have complete bayer information? Is it copied over to the DNG. I'm a bit lost on this. What is your opinion?
just single pixels are used for focusing. you can get the dot pattern from the dot data text files of the pdr. the pattern is fixed and can't change with software versions, but the position may change dependent on the crop ml uses. for crop mode and non crop mode you'll get different patterns since non crop mode is downscaled by skipping lines and rows. that's why non crop mode has diagonal neighboring focus pixels. the pattern does also change for different modes like silent dng etc, because of the different scaling ratios.
the raw does contain the really raw bayer data from the sensor plus some extra header and footer. the dng format does also allow raw sensor data, so for dng conversion it's just copied over frame by frame and each dng gets also a correct dng header. you shouldn't care about dng conversion, there are already good tools to convert to dng or cinemadng that can be used in scripts via cli.
> Do you think it a strategy worth pursuing, that I write a small Windows .NET utility that writes a FixBadPixellist to each of the DNGs, based on the crop mode of the video? (I'd also have a utility that would calculate the section of the map that would apply to that clips frame). Can I get to those single pixels.
It seems the DNGs show focus effects in many blocks of 9.
most video software ignores the bad pixel list of dngs. that's why we recommend using interpolation in pdr, instead of marking them. i don't understand what exactly the advantage of a new utility would be. the problems are exactly the same as with pdr.
investigating in more advanced interpolation algorithms (for bayer data) would be very helpful.
> If there are blocks of 9 pixels in the DNGs, and there is no way of avoiding it, does this make sense to you?
there aren't blocks of 9 pixels in the DNGs. at least i never saw anything like that. a block of 9 pixels would lead to a dot of at least 21 pixels after demosaicing.
What about?
1. Focus camera on white wall and take some RAW.
2. Alter in image editor to turn background black.
3. Run through .NET code to mark each pixel that is a focus pixel. Most are in blocks of 9. There are also some single pixels used for focus or something.
4. Build static map of ALL sensor's focus pixels, which can, with the right x/y offset, map onto any image from camera.
foorgool also started with a similar method to create first dot maps. check the first pages of the pdr thread. since the dot pattern is very consistent any detection isn't needed. the positions of the dots can simply described as we did in the dot data files of pdr.
maybe an option to automatically find and fix bad pixels if no pattern does match would be worth to investigate in. the new interpolation algorithm that is used in the pdr test version also describes a method to detect bad pixels in the paper. it should be simple to implement that.
>While going through frame, check to see if center pixel is redder, bluer, or greener than pixel outside of focus block. As you know, focus pixels don't always fire. They only seem to do so on edges, clipped readings, etc.
i don't think it's worth careing if the focus pixel fires (is visible) or not. if the pixels around are nearly of the same color you won't lose much information by interpolation anyways, since it should get nearly the same color. if they are not, the information of this pixel is lost with both methods.
i think it shouldn't be to hard to get pdr work with current versions. one of the most problematic stuff that has to be done with pdr is compatibility for dual iso, since the interpolation would be much more complex with different exposures.
hope this information clears it up a bit.
@DanyoO:
really nice video! the shaky stuff form 0:15-0:20 is bit strange, imho. but it's definitely the best eos m raw video i've seen so far. the uncontrasty yellowish look is fantastic.
Thank you Mixer2
1%,
When I record raw movies, it disables the audio, which I expect. But, when I disable raw recording of movies to go back to recording normal H264, the audio is still disabled. Can you make it so when we disable the raw recording of movies it will switch back to the "previous" settings of audio manual or auto recording?
Gary
The loading of modules is all messed up. I am trying both Sept 19th and Sept 17th versions. I Liked the old way where we select either on or off for each module and the select "load modules". There is no load now and I always get these err labels on each module listed. I managed to get some to load with using the debug modules on in the next tab to the right of modules. But, it all seems very unintuitive and I am just guessing with maybe four attempts of cycling on and off hoping they load.
Gary
gary, there are more modules built into the last couple nightlies. you should not enable scripting and tcc. they don't work, yet. see if that helps. i will disable them for tomorrows build
Quote from: maxotics on September 19, 2013, 10:33:31 PM
I sent Mixer2 ...
There will be an update on Oct 15th for Adobe Premiere Pro CC that will then allow DNG file sequences to load. This will be good, if anyone uses PPro CC. Then we can shoot raw, pdr the raw file and extract to dng. Then just import the dng seqq to PPro CC and the ACR (Adobe Camera Raw filter) pops up that allows a first grade which is always needed to see something usable to edit. Make sure to use Select All in the top left of the window and then tweak away. The filter has many settings including noise reduction, but I always use exposure and color temp. Then select Done and edit in PPro. I then apply Neat Video as a noise reduction filter. You can always recall ACR and make new adjustments as needed which is the benefit of DNG as Mixer2 stated in the previous post.
This will be much better then using AE or other workflows, IMO. Plus, you can round trip with Dynamic Linking that is simple using Speedgrade for advanced color grading and correction. Or maybe Davinci or Assimilate Scratch. I have been using Photoshop to import DNG seq and then it's the same with ACR, but I now have to use Save As Tif to all the DNG's and then edit with Tif seq and that is not as good since I lose the benefits of raw DNG grading. Staying in DNG seq for edit, FX, grading is the easiest and best quality and you can even save the final project as DNG and then make conversion of any type needed for delivery. Like Mov, AVI, etc. or even back to H264. etc.
Gary
Quote from: jerrykil on September 20, 2013, 10:27:09 AM
gary, there are more modules built into the last couple nightlies. you should not enable scripting and tcc. they don't work, yet. see if that helps. i will disable them for tomorrows build
Ok, I will try it now.
Gary
Edit-just tried sept 19th build and shut off tcc and script modules. cycled on and off the cam and it shows all err for all modules except the two I shut off.
dot tune, mem spy and bolt rec are also causing problems for the other modules to load. I had to shut all of them off before the rest of the modules would load properly.
Gary
Tip: "make zip" in platform directory will bundle only the modules that can load on your camera without errors.
i deleted the offending modules from the memory card and after three reboots they all loaded ok. Except bolt rec says oldapi.
this is sept 19th build
gary
Andy posted about a new stable release for the 50D which I downloaded and tried. Works great. Is there someone creating stable builds for the EOS-M? (I understand, strictly speaking, that all builds are alpha.)
Quote from: a1ex on September 20, 2013, 11:05:26 AM
Tip: "make zip" in platform directory will bundle only the modules that can load on your camera without errors.
Thx for the tip, a1ex. I noticed my make zip will build whatever is in tragic-lantern-6d/modules/Makefile.modules.default and then package whatever modules it notices were built before. mlv_rec will not build and will cause make zip to abort:
make[2]: *** No rule to make target `lzma/7zAlloc.host.o', needed by `lzma/lib7z.a'. Stop.
make[1]: *** [mlv_rec] Error 2
make: *** [CONFIG_MODULES_compile] Error 21% said he'd include the lzma directory at some point already. the module builds fine, but the converter doesn't, he told the 99% :P
mlv_eec is included in the Makefile.modules.default. Anyway, this is minor housekeeping stuff and I don't think its any problem, I'll just tinker the makefile to not build all that stuff.
Gary, i've updated the sept19 build with these modules only:
raw_rec file_man pic_view ettr autoexpo dual_iso arkanoid silent dot_tune
i had to make this change to the Makefile.platform.default for 'make zip' to finish
ML_MODULES_DYNAMIC ?= raw_rec file_man pic_view ettr autoexpo dual_iso arkanoid silent dot_tune #mlv_rec
ps. new fonts look sweet :)
I also see EOSM_202.sym in the modules folder. What is that for and does it belong there?
gary
Quote from: jerrykil on September 20, 2013, 04:30:46 PM
Edit: Found the binary. Thanks.
Gary, i've updated the sept19 build with these modules only:
Where can i find the september 19 binary?
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 20, 2013, 06:57:10 PM
Where can i find the september 19 binary?
http://ml.bot-fly.com/
gary
I'm a newbie to the forum here and just received my EOS-M today. I use ML with my 5D2 and love it. My camera unfortunately came with 2.02 firmware.
I've been reading this forum and am getting quite confused.
I have tried to do the procedure that's posted a few places in different threads that indicate I need 3 files but one of those 3 files cannot be obtained through the link posted (all the same) the .fir file
due to the confusion what is the simplest way to get magic lantern to work. I really only want to take advantage of the additional AEB frames that ML allows for this camera.
Sorry if this is repetitive but reading through this entire thread I'm more confused.
http://ml.bot-fly.com found build and firmware here but when trying to load them I cannot and update procedure says extract all files for some reason?
I must be doing something wrong... :( please help. I love ML on my 5D2 and want to use it on my M ASAP!
extract the zip file, copy the contents to you memory card, copy the posted .fir file to the card, update your firmware with that .fir file
oh, if your card is 64gb or greater then you need to run EOSCard i believe
check out http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install
if you can understand it, kudos
/me needs sleep
Quote from: jerrykil on September 21, 2013, 04:40:25 AM
extract the zip file, copy the contents to you memory card, copy the posted .fir file to the card, update your firmware with that .fir file
oh, if your card is 64gb or greater then you need to run EOSCard i believe
check out http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified/Install
if you can understand it, kudos
/me needs sleep
Thanks,
I got that much. However when I tried with the zip on that site most recently posted AND the .fir file that's also listed there I wasn't successful. Ill try again. I did however get it working with another file I downloaded from another place ([EOSM]FullbackADTGui.zip). Ill give this one another go.
Didn't know where to post this video, so did so here. I found a wide-angle adapter that doesn't not work ;)
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8440.msg77687#msg77687
Until the focus dot issue is fixed once and for all I'm going to put the EOS-M aside (for RAW) and continue on with the 50D.
The sept20 install does not have a .fir file. But the install worked fine once I ran it through EOSCard with the exception of:
Dot_tune.mo
Mem_spy.mo
Script.mo
These files cause an 'err' message in all the module files. The message at the bottom of the screen is 'linking failed'. I have tried to load these individually and together but nothing works. Tried rebooting the camera a few times but nothing either.
However, overall love the new fonts and the UI is much more intuitive and friendly.
The Dual_ISO (the only feature that I really care about works just as it should).
I have a Dual_ISO related question (infact 2):
The pictures on the back of the camera look perfectly exposed to the eye if I use the digital EV indicator on the bottom left of the ML screen set to around 0EV. But when I bring the picture to ACR it is dark and has to be exposed quite a lot to come in the visible range. Know why?
The pictures of people (especially where the close up has a lot of skin almost always shows ugly grains in the shadow area (especially the borders) after processing with cr2hdr.exe. Not sure what version of cr2hdr I am using ( downloaded the latest one 2 weeks ago from Alex's Dual_ISO thread ). The funny thing is when I look at the same picture as a CR2 (unprocessed with the dual horizontal alternating lines), the picture looks fine. Anything I am doing wrong?
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 22, 2013, 05:02:33 AM
The sept20 install does not have a .fir file. But the install worked fine once I ran it through EOSCard with the exception of:
Dot_tune.mo
Mem_spy.mo
Script.mo
Thats my bad. I didn't realize make clean wasn't cleaning the modules up. i fixed it on the new build. as for the .fir file, i have it in the parent directory or http://ml.bot-fly.com/EOSM1202.FIR
it wouldn't be a problem to throw it into the zip, maybe i'll do that. i don't kknow how to actually build a .fir file.
EDIT: oops sorry guys, it wasn't an octet-stream type. it should download on click now
Great! Will try it in the next hour and report.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 22, 2013, 05:18:13 AM
Thats my bad. I didn't realize make clean wasn't cleaning the modules up. i fixed it on the new build. as for the .fir file, i have it in the parent directory or http://ml.bot-fly.com/EOSM1202.FIR
it wouldn't be a problem to throw it into the zip, maybe i'll do that. i don't kknow how to actually build a .fir file.
EDIT: oops sorry guys, it wasn't an octet-stream type. it should download on click now
Jerrykil, any plans to always update the first page with the latest build since this thread is getting really huge; and it takes hours to figure out the latest, greatest and useful.
You don't need those:
script - broken/5d3 only
dot tune - incompatible
mem spy - debug tool
Memory working and you can load all modules at once?
@Canon eos m,
i've thrown in installer .fir in with the zip. the source was already looking for it so it was really easy. 'make zip' looks for a fir file so i've put that where it belongs and now it gets thrown into the zip w/o any trouble! yay!
@1%,
i've removed all my changes from the nightly. the 'make clean' scripts aren't doing what i thought they were so i will put my tinkering in a separate dir. a1ex made some helpful changes so now i don't have to tweak the default modules makefile. besides that, thanks for putting in more work over the weekend :)
i just watched the linux tag presentation and it was super informative. I think some of the newcomers like myself could greatly benefit from a read through that powerpoint!!!
you guys are my heros =D
Sure. Thanks. I will delete the unwanted files (mem spy, dot tune & script) from my module list and add the EOS1202 fir file to the root and lets see what happens. Want is the updaterM fir for I wonder?
Edit: Sorry didn't notice you had already cleaned up the modules files in the Sept21 build. Any reasons for letting go of the mlv_rec.mo file?
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 22, 2013, 08:25:36 AM
Sure. Thanks. I will delete the unwanted files (mem spy, dot tune & script) from my module list and add the EOS1202 fir file to the root and lets see what happens. Want is the updaterM fir for I wonder?
Edit: Sorry didn't notice you had already cleaned up the modules files in the Sept21 build. Any reasons for letting go of the mlv_rec.mo file?
Edit: Noticed you also let go of the bolt_rec file.
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 22, 2013, 08:32:24 AM
Edit: Noticed you also let go of the bolt_rec file.
Edit: Jerrykil, just uploaded the Sept21 build. Works fine if you leave the dot_tune.mo file out. If you try to load the module with the dot_tune.mo, the same 'err' message resurfaces. I would guess best to leave the dot_tune.mo out since it is anyway an 'incompatible' file according to 1%.
I just got a remote control for the M. It's the RC-6 model from a third party. It works good at even 16 feet away for taking pics, BUT, I can't get it to start and atop the movie mode for videos. I have read in forums that it does also work for video,even the third party models, but I cannot see how. It always takes a pic in movie mode and a message pops up saying "switch to movie mode, something went wrong". But, it then starts recording video. Odd. BUT, I then cannot get the remote to stop the movie recording. It just keeps taking pics with each push of the button on the remote.
Is this something Magic Lantern can do to make it work for video start and stop without taking pics? Or, is there something I am doing wrong? I am setting the Self-Timer: 1o secs/remote to get the remote to work. I see no other way to do this for video start/stop.
Gary
@canon, i made some changes, they will be reflected in tonights nightly.
for the devs,
maybe more of a question/suggestion or something of extremely low priority: it would be nice to be able to clean all modules but i get the following:
make -C ../modules/cardtest/ clean
make[1]: *** No rule to make target `clean'. Stop.
make: *** [cardtest/_rule_clean] Error 2
am i missing something? it would be cool if i could have a zip of just modules compiled for the M for ppl to try out if they wished.
the Makefile.modules.default, seeing as its a default, includes the dot_tune module. i see the Makefile.modules has this comment:
# should we define a platform for modules? for now use 'all' platform
for now i'm just commenting out #dot_tune and whatever ppl have problems with. the whole makefile thing is totally within the scope of my limited programming abilities but i have exams right now and figuring out the scheme right now is over my head...i'll try to understand this stuff after midterms and maybe i can be more constructive.
Just delete the card test folder
QuoteWant is the updaterM fir
One of these is the boot flag fir. You should give up on the burnt in fir bins, the symbols have changed so I highly doubt they will load any modules now.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 22, 2013, 07:20:41 PM
@canon, i made some changes, they will be reflected in tonights nightly.
for the devs,
maybe more of a question/suggestion or something of extremely low priority: it would be nice to be able to clean all modules but i get the following:
make -C ../modules/cardtest/ clean
make[1]: *** No rule to make target `clean'. Stop.
make: *** [cardtest/_rule_clean] Error 2
am i missing something? it would be cool if i could have a zip of just modules compiled for the M for ppl to try out if they wished.
the Makefile.modules.default, seeing as its a default, includes the dot_tune module. i see the Makefile.modules has this comment:
# should we define a platform for modules? for now use 'all' platform
for now i'm just commenting out #dot_tune and whatever ppl have problems with. the whole makefile thing is totally within the scope of my limited programming abilities but i have exams right now and figuring out the scheme right now is over my head...i'll try to understand this stuff after midterms and maybe i can be more constructive.
Dude - Good luck for your exams. Don't bother, ML appears to be working fine on the EOS M. The glitches ('err' codes and all that are not impacting the user experience or causing any major issues at the moment).
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 22, 2013, 05:02:33 AM
The Dual_ISO (the only feature that I really care about works just as it should).
I have a Dual_ISO related question (infact 2):
The pictures of people (especially where the close up has a lot of skin almost always shows ugly grains in the shadow area (especially the borders) after processing with cr2hdr.exe. Not sure what version of cr2hdr I am using ( downloaded the latest one 2 weeks ago from Alex's Dual_ISO thread ). The funny thing is when I look at the same picture as a CR2 (unprocessed with the dual horizontal alternating lines), the picture looks fine. Anything I am doing wrong?
good to know it's working, I've been looking into buying an eos-m just for this purpose (dual-iso) because of all the sales and discounts going around.
But how bad was that grain issue? can you post for us a sample please?
most features work quite well actually. digit peaking is great. i've been into weird results lately (see http://www.bot-fly.com). i've read that some of the creative filters regs give weird images. are there any examples of this? here are some featues that i absolutely love using without any problems:
- peaking
- dual_iso
- advanced bracketing: (i wish it would shoot without focusing after the first shot for when i need quick HDR bracketing. i'm not that good at MF)
- hdr video(i get a couple frame drops where iso doesn't change. i haven't tried this in a while so maybe this odesn't happen with new FW)
- bitrate contol (i can get a stable 3-3.5x increase w/ my 95mb/s card, though i hear the controller is only capable of half that)
I have to say most of the features work well with a few kinks here and there. but for what i paid, this is hard to beat! i'd love to find some cheap old lenses and an adapter to piss my x100 friends off with some nice shots =D
@Jerrykil
You want to get shallow DOF, like some super expensive full-frame. Try the $30 CCTV c-mount Fujian 35mm 1.7 with $10 c-mount to EOS-M adapter. It's a blast. I shot this the other day.
Is there any new ML compiled version for the EOS M?
I still use the one from Rootwangs post on side 45 which may be outdated.
I do read more or less everything here but I don´t understand what to use and how to compile things. I tried to test the "Latest Build" but couldn´t make it work on my M.
If there is something new which is more or less working it would be nice if someone could compile it again for testing.
funky, try the latest on ml.bot-fly.com, it has everythign you need in the zip. also, do you have a 64gb+ card?
Quote from: maxotics on September 23, 2013, 02:52:44 PM
@Jerrykil
You want to get shallow DOF, like some super expensive full-frame. Try the $30 CCTV c-mount Fujian 35mm 1.7 with $10 c-mount to EOS-M adapter. It's a blast. I shot this the other day.
\m/ awesome kids 8)
40$? can't go wrong
Really awesome to know, been debating to myself whether to get the eos-m+22mm+adapter or an x100, it's the dual-iso that sold me here because now I can take advantage of my canon lenses ... plus the x100 was kinda bulky and slow when I tried it =/ there's the x100s but it's more expensive
sorry for the off-topic :P
jerrykil
these versions you are posting are all lacking the FONTS.DAT in the data folder. I have a new sandisk 32gb 45 write card and tried a new install from your latest build posted and it kept saying the FONTS.DAT was missing.
gary
hmm still not working with the one file copied over. ??
Gary, its because you're using the updater.fir. it doesn' tload the new fonts :( you have to use the newer installer EOSM1202.FIR: http://ml.bot-fly.com/fir_files/EOSM1202.FIR
i guess my idea of trying to see if updater.fir has a shutter bug was not well informed :P unless of course you wanna try an older build before the new fonts
Quote from: jerrykil on September 23, 2013, 04:27:36 PM
Gary, its because you're using the updater.fir. it doesn' tload the new fonts :( you have to use the newer installer EOSM1202.FIR: http://ml.bot-fly.com/fir_files/EOSM1202.FIR
i guess my idea of trying to see if updater.fir has a shutter bug was not well informed :P unless of course you wanna try an older build before the new fonts
just tried what you said and that doesn't work either. it wants that fonts file. i never used the updater file. first time i used the same file you said and that didn't work. i just downloaded the same file you have on your site along with the sept 22 version and still no luck. works when i install that fonts file.
gary
update-i put the fonts file in the folder on the card, it then installed. but, now all the modules will not load. all errs. I know all the ways to hopefully get them on and none work. i keep getting sent in a circle after three or four reboots. Using the modules debug at times. i probably have now rebooted 2o times. i have to go back a version or two when it worked. I just tried the latest sept 22 version with no luck.
update 2-it's the dot tune again that is keeping them all from loading. maybe you can leave it out?
No micro adjustment on EOSM that I can find... maybe its possible but not with the current module. It has to be checked/reversed like 60D/50D/6D etc.
gary, my bad, it wont get built anymore
Quote from: jerrykil on September 23, 2013, 06:37:06 PM
gary, my bad, it wont get built anymore
don't take it personal. :-) your school stuff is more important.
Quote from: gary2013 on September 22, 2013, 05:30:36 PM
I just got a remote control for the M. It's the RC-6 model from a third party. It works good at even 16 feet away for taking pics, BUT, I can't get it to start and atop the movie mode for videos. I have read in forums that it does also work for video,even the third party models, but I cannot see how. It always takes a pic in movie mode and a message pops up saying "switch to movie mode, something went wrong". But, it then starts recording video. Odd. BUT, I then cannot get the remote to stop the movie recording. It just keeps taking pics with each push of the button on the remote.
Is this something Magic Lantern can do to make it work for video start and stop without taking pics? Or, is there something I am doing wrong? I am setting the Self-Timer: 1o secs/remote to get the remote to work. I see no other way to do this for video start/stop.
Gary
If you read the manual, you will see if you set the remote to "2", and set the self-timer on the camera to remote (as you did), and set the camera to video, the remote will start and stop video instantly when you press the remote button. This has absolutely nothing to do with ML.
Quote from: markr041 on September 23, 2013, 08:58:19 PM
If you read the manual, you will see if you set the remote to "2", and set the self-timer on the camera to remote (as you did), and set the camera to video, the remote will start and stop video instantly when you press the remote button. This has absolutely nothing to do with ML.
thank you.
idk if this has been answered or not... i apologize if it has been.
is there a reason why ML with the EOS-M doesn't expand the auto bracketed shots like the 5D2 and similar cameras that run ML? If it does... how do I get it to work in a similar fashion?
Thanks in advance!
Jerrykil can't wait for your exams to get over. sept22 still has issues. The global draw is acting up a bit when run in tandem with ettr and dual iso. But again said all is well since the ML interface is generally working just fine.
@canon, i'm not a dev i'm just posting my nightlies. i got no idea how to fix the module or display :o
I just met several shutter problem with my 18-55 today and it became worse compared to earlier build. Hope this could be solved soon.
Beside, any news about the live view auto room function improvement?
Quote from: jerrykil on September 23, 2013, 03:51:12 PM
funky, try the latest on ml.bot-fly.com, it has everythign you need in the zip. also, do you have a 64gb+ card?
Thanky jerrykil I will try this one later this week. I use the sandisk Extreme 45 MB/s 32gb card
@1% + devs
I made a post here (http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8347.msg78192#msg78192) about the shutter bug. Do you think there could be anything in it?
Basically, could the shutter bug be due to the electronic IS starting before ML starts? Is there a way to make ML start before the IS or even restart the IS after it has started?
I only ask because if the power cycle or lens rotate trick are used it means the electronic IS is being restarted while ML is running thus allowing the camera to take photos.
Quote from: iNfEk on September 24, 2013, 12:27:43 AM
idk if this has been answered or not... i apologize if it has been.
is there a reason why ML with the EOS-M doesn't expand the auto bracketed shots like the 5D2 and similar cameras that run ML? If it does... how do I get it to work in a similar fashion?
Thanks in advance!
never mind... I did find how to do it... it's slightly different.
because I found it... I think there might be a bug or a way to improve on it.
I access the menu with the sept22 build and turn the feature on for "Advanced Bracketing" then I tap the screen instead of using just the set button. this brings up the options (duh... LOL). Funny thing here is different menu options bring up their respected options with the set button sometimes or touch vs this which requires the touch of the menu to bring it up.
I set any bracketing type both exposure or DOF and set the # of frames I want (i.e. 5-9) in 1EV increments with self timer (2 second) turned on... (0-+--++)
The camera auto focuses and then starts the self timer (for two seconds) and the first frame is taken.... usually... the second, third, forth...etc. goes after that but instead, the camera refocuses and then takes the next frame AFTER the two second self timer goes off again... so basically the self timer and focus gets redone in between each shot even though "2-second delay) and ISO shift" is turned off.
furthermore... I notice that some of the shots don't come out with different exposures but rather the same repeatedly. other times... I notice that when the number of bracketed shots are set (1, 2, 3, 4, 5...etc. all the way to 15) I don't always get that set amount of shots specified. sometimes I get less. for example. I set 9 shots and I'll get 3 or 4 sometimes with different exposures and other times with the same exposure.
Hey sorry if this is a nub question, but where do I go to get the latest build? The link on post 1 was built last year.
I'm able to find the nightly builds, but they don't seem to have a firmware file included. Any recommendations?
Running on the sept23 build, can anyone confirm this:
If you shoot video snapshot, shoot some snapshots, turn off the camera and turn it on again (keeping it in movie mode) the camera kept saying "Movie recording size has been changed." and it says it will record new snapshot into a new album, but if you take the snapshot, it will just add it to the last album.
I've tried the builds on http://ml.bot-fly.com/ , but they're apparently missing the fonts file.
Quote from: dru5h on September 24, 2013, 08:18:23 PM
I've tried the builds on http://ml.bot-fly.com/ , but they're apparently missing the fonts file.
What does it say?
I overwrite mine with the one from bot-fly and the font changes but there's no warning about missing fonts.
Just ETTR being wonky and going back and forth between overexposed and underexposed.
I also noticed that bracketed images are labeled differently than standard images when the file are created...
for example:
Bracketed RAW files will be
Bxx_xxxx
where as my normal images are IMG_xxxx
I tried removing ML from my SD card and turning on the camera but I just keep getting a blinking green light and can't do anything with the camera. Took the battery out and put it back in and still can't do anything with the camera. Put back ML back on the card and I have to play with the battery in order for the camera to function again. weird.
Quote from: dru5h on September 24, 2013, 08:18:23 PM
I've tried the builds on http://ml.bot-fly.com/ , but they're apparently missing the fonts file.
i think some of the modules might be calling for the old fonts file. do you have all the modules enabled? let me know, cuz i only enable dual_iso lately.
iNfEk,
i also love doing bracketing and haven't been able to go above the built canons EV range of +/- 3EV because it focuses between each shot, kinda sux that way!
Quote from: jerrykil on September 25, 2013, 01:10:52 AM
i think some of the modules might be calling for the old fonts file. do you have all the modules enabled? let me know, cuz i only enable dual_iso lately.
iNfEk,
i also love doing bracketing and haven't been able to go above the built canons EV range of +/- 3EV because it focuses between each shot, kinda sux that way!
does your bracketed shots with or without ML show up as B##_####? mine show up as B10, 11, 12, 13 _3### and my cameras image count is IMG_0018 as the last shot.
I use a tripod to do the bracketed shots with ML and touch the advanced bracketing option (not set)
set as EXPOSURE, 5+ frames, 1EV, Off, Off and then focus and push the shutter. as indicated it will shoot the bracketed shots but it'll focus in between. BUT as you're aware... you use the standard AEB option and it'll self timer and shoot continuously one after the other.
Use the latest zip file on http://ml.bot-fly.com/ and delete the old 3 files that should be in your root directory. do the update procedure and it should work. mine is working now with sept 23rd zip.
yeah thats how my filenames are too, seems to make sense, tho. i have all sorts of bugs tryin to use the feature though. so mcuh so that i may just not know how to use it properly. i think i've posted about it before but no one addressed it...
Confession. I have been using ETTR (actually thought I was using ETTR) all these days and could not figure what the big deal was. Read all links posted by RenatoPhoto but not joy. Then suddenly, yesterday, my big discovery moment arrived! I figured out that I actually activated the ETTR module and chose it on the interface but was not dbl clicking the half shutter. So, no ETTR.
Now, wow!
ETTR rocks. The camera turns a beast. Actually, now Dual_ISO (that automatically activates if the ETTR is told to allow that, when the DR is too wide for ETTR to handle) is more of a game changer. Dual_ISO has been and remains my favourite feature. The limitations of Dual_ISO (pronounced shadows, etc.) are now better handled by ETTR.
So, if I want better shadow detail and less noise in the shadow/ mistone areas, I can expose to the right. If I want more DR with both the shadows/ highlights having a place in my picture, I use Dual_ISO.
ETTR then becomes a dawn2dust feature. Dual_ISO is clearly a winner during daylight or super dynamic range situations - whatever the time of day.
Hi Guys, Sorry but I read earlier that the ZIP was going to be updated with the .FIR files. But i've check all the builds and nothing is there. I have the latest files but no .fir to install in the camera. Or Maybe I just don't get what I have to do.
Thanks for your help.
Funkypat,
you're doin something funky, heres the files from today's build
total 840
drwx------@ 5 grey admin 170 Sep 25 23:15 .
drwxr-xr-x 1624 grey admin 55216 Sep 25 23:15 ..
-rw-r--r--@ 1 grey admin 41372 Sep 25 23:01 EOSM_202.fir
drwxr-xr-x@ 12 grey admin 408 Sep 25 23:01 ML
-rw-r--r--@ 1 grey admin 383120 Sep 25 23:00 autoexec.bin
can you paste the contents of your flashcard? just the files you've managed to put on there? also, i highly reocommend reading through previous posts on getting ML set up. it depends on the size of your card and you need the ML directory, the autoexec.bin and the firmware file to get it working.
Quote from: jerrykil on September 26, 2013, 05:18:50 AM
Funkypat,
you're doin something funky, heres the files from today's build
total 840
drwx------@ 5 grey admin 170 Sep 25 23:15 .
drwxr-xr-x 1624 grey admin 55216 Sep 25 23:15 ..
-rw-r--r--@ 1 grey admin 41372 Sep 25 23:01 EOSM_202.fir
drwxr-xr-x@ 12 grey admin 408 Sep 25 23:01 ML
-rw-r--r--@ 1 grey admin 383120 Sep 25 23:00 autoexec.bin
can you paste the contents of your flashcard? just the files you've managed to put on there? also, i highly reocommend reading through previous posts on getting ML set up. it depends on the size of your card and you need the ML directory, the autoexec.bin and the firmware file to get it working.
Is this from bot-fly.com? How do people build .fir?
Quote from: Canon eos m on September 26, 2013, 02:29:32 AM
Confession. I have been using ETTR (actually thought I was using ETTR) all these days and could not figure what the big deal was. Read all links posted by RenatoPhoto but not joy. Then suddenly, yesterday, my big discovery moment arrived! I figured out that I actually activated the ETTR module and chose it on the interface but was not dbl clicking the half shutter. So, no ETTR.
Now, wow!
ETTR rocks. The camera turns a beast. Actually, now Dual_ISO (that automatically activates if the ETTR is told to allow that, when the DR is too wide for ETTR to handle) is more of a game changer. Dual_ISO has been and remains my favourite feature. The limitations of Dual_ISO (pronounced shadows, etc.) are now better handled by ETTR.
So, if I want better shadow detail and less noise in the shadow/ mistone areas, I can expose to the right. If I want more DR with both the shadows/ highlights having a place in my picture, I use Dual_ISO.
ETTR then becomes a dawn2dust feature. Dual_ISO is clearly a winner during daylight or super dynamic range situations - whatever the time of day.
How fast does ETTR work on your EOS-M? In mine it keeps flipflopping between darker and brighter exposures, and it takes forever for it to settle on the correct exposure. :(
Decently quick. Use the 25th Sept build.
Quote from: feureau on September 26, 2013, 03:28:25 PM
Is this from bot-fly.com? How do people build .fir?
Ah, you can't build fir unless your one of the reverse engineering geniuses. If you are trying to build from source, i assume you got the toolchain setup. all you need to do after you have that ARM GCC is cd into platform/EOSM.202 then 'make' and then 'make zip'. that'll get you a zip file in the same directory w/ the ML folder and the autoexec.bin. the FIR has to come from the powers that be.
I Think I've come to the limits of my technical skills...
So I re-downloaded the latest build (Built on: 2013-09-25 18:31:09 -0400)
unzipped it and there is no .fir file on there. I feel really ignorant here, i've read most of this forum and I just don't get it.
I can build a Aerial drone from tiny parts that fit in my hand and send it to film across town but I can't install a software on a 500$ camera! I'm getting old.
I'm I the only one who can't figure this out?
oof, my last guess is something to do with your view options in windows? maybe it sees .fir file as a system file and hides it from you? i'm on a mac, so i can't confirm if this is the case. the alternative is to get the file from here:
http://ml.bot-fly.com/fir_files/EOSM1202.FIR
Hello I need some assistance, I may be missing something in the forums for the eos m. I have the latest 202 firmware on my eos m and was wondering if the latest build will work with it or is there a way to modify the zip file to accept the new 202 firmware? I've tried tirelessly and still haven't been able to get it to work with the new firmware. I thought it would be as simply as switching the firmware files and or renaming them but not the case, I'm not an expert but I do have a decent grasp of the process of loading ML onto my cards as I have it on all my other eos cameras and would love to have ml on my eos m. I have also searched the web for the old 106 firmware but have not found anything, can anyone lead me in the right direction I would really appreciate any help or tips, thanks in advance.
take a look at:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg73618#msg73618
there are nightly builds (http://ml.bot-fly.com) and there is a more official release from 1% on the bitbucket page:
https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/downloads/%5BEOSM%5DFullbackADTGui.zip
its good to see so many ML users showing up to the forums, but please use the search feature because this thread is already too long and the install procedure has been posted many times...
Welcome =D
newbie here, so bear with me please. :)
When using adapted lenses on the EOS M, there is a magnify function to help with focusing.
Touch the magnifying glass icon, then touch the screen at the desired focus point, touch the magnifying glass again to enlarge 5x.
At this point if you're ready to shoot, you have to press the magnifying glass twice more and THEN you can fire the shutter:
(The first press magnifies to 10x, the second press goes back to normal view.)
That is a lot of touch screen presses, and manual focus is slow enough without slowing it down further.
I'm curious if ML could alter this process so a shutter button press would cancel magnification and go back to the full view...this is how it works on other mirrorless cams.
Thanks in advance!
I think you can assign half press to bring up a magnified view. Ideal for manual focus.
Would it be possible to split the development discussion thread with a more general support/troubleshoot discussion thread detailing how to install the lastest version? That might be a better use of everyone's time.
Thanks so very much Jerrykill, and I apologize for taking up space and ur time and not having found it on my own. I appreciate and know how busy and hard everyone is working on taking ml to the next level, for that I take my hat off to everyone, cheers and thnx again you made my day!
Quote from: monza on September 26, 2013, 10:45:34 PM
newbie here, so bear with me please. :)
When using adapted lenses on the EOS M, there is a magnify function to help with focusing.
Touch the magnifying glass icon, then touch the screen at the desired focus point, touch the magnifying glass again to enlarge 5x.
At this point if you're ready to shoot, you have to press the magnifying glass twice more and THEN you can fire the shutter:
(The first press magnifies to 10x, the second press goes back to normal view.)
That is a lot of touch screen presses, and manual focus is slow enough without slowing it down further.
I'm curious if ML could alter this process so a shutter button press would cancel magnification and go back to the full view...this is how it works on other mirrorless cams.
Thanks in advance!
I agree. This is quite crucial. Half pressing the shuttter should return to full view.
That and an option to whether to keep multishot NR on when turning the camera off and on again. (at default it will return to regular NR when you use multishot NR)
Zoom on half-shutter should help (does it work on the M?)
Not so updated on the shutter bug, but I observed something new. I was running Sept22 version for quite some time. Then I had to wipe my memory card to rescue a laptop, wrote over the memorycard with a dd/raw image, so ML and all partition tables were wiped. Later on I just created a MBR/MSDOS partition with GParted and used the camera to quick format the partition.
So I should not have ML left on the card anymore? But I still have the the shutter bug and have to re-seat the lens to get it working.
So, you have experienced the shutter bug without ML loaded?
@EVVK
Did you uninstall tragic lantern before you used the memory card for something else? Watch my video in this post (http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8347.msg78771#msg78771) to see how to remove tragic lantern.
I need to check but im sure the bug stays even though you dont have the tragic lantern files on the card but still have the bootflag set on the camera.
Edit:
Ok, confirmed the camera wont even start without the tragic lantern files on the SD card. Just get flashing SD light.
Quote from: a1ex on September 27, 2013, 11:59:03 AM
So, you have experienced the shutter bug without ML loaded?
yes
I didn't uninstall or unset any bootflags. I had the flashing green LED in some point also but was desperate to get the camera working, I believe here I used GParted in Ubuntu to completely do a new partition table on the card, then I was able to boot the camera correctly without ML and do the quick format.
I just installed sept 26 version and now the shutter bug is gone. I reported the other day, using sept 22 versio9n that the bug was back on my camera using the new 32 gb 45 write sandisk. so, something changed in the newest sept 26 version to get rid of the bug... on my camera.
gary
I thought we had a separate thread going for shutter bug only and now it's back being discussed here?
we do, can you post the files from your memory card gary so i can test them on my camera. Post them in the shutter bug thread please.
Ideally while the bug isnt happening lol
Quote from: Malakai on September 27, 2013, 03:14:01 PM
we do, can you post the files from your memory card gary so i can test them on my camera. Post them in the shutter bug thread please.
Ideally while the bug isnt happening lol
the only files on my card are from the sept 26 version off tye ml bot fly.com site . i also had to add the fonts. dat file from an older version to the data folder on the card.
gary
Thats ok, as long as the bug isnt happening just copy the ML, autoexec.bin and .fir file off, zip em up and post a link so i can test exactly what you have got on my camera.
Thanks :D
Quote from: Malakai on September 27, 2013, 03:33:37 PM
Thats ok, as long as the bug isnt happening just copy the ML, autoexec.bin and .fir file off, zip em up and post a link so i can test exactly what you have got on my camera.
Thanks :D
Malakai, just go to http://ml.bot-fly.com/ and download the newest ssept 26th version and that is what i have on my card along with the two folders that canon creates from the first format in camera.. I did have to find that fonts.dat file from an older version I have in my archives of ML. i got an error asking for that fonts file my first try installing the spet 26th version. what I have on my card and if i zipped it, it would be the same files that you can easily get from http://ml.bot-fly.com/
gary
Guys, there was a font change a few days back. the reason you're getting a font file not found error is probably because some of the ML files/modules are still looking for those old font files. It would be good to replace your ML directory assuming your autoexec.bin is already the newer one
edit: replace as in delete the old one, and not simply write over it with updated files, since that keeps old files that aren't replaced
Yes the September 26th version killed the shuttle bug. I am very happy with that since I am kind of tried with the boker effect of big aperture fixed focal length lens recently and have come back to the simple but fast 18-55 kit. I like to take more photos of better composition and ideas with that auto focus lens later.
But also noticed that nether the magic zoom nor the live view auto zoom function was improved in the latest version. Hope we can see a really reliable manual focus function in the future.
Does anyone know how to use the defishing on EOS-M? It only says hit LV+play to use but pressing the play (preview pics) button doesn't do anything defishing-wise?
I understand it doesn't work on liveview yet, but is it supposed to work in preview mode?
Thanks
Nevermind.
In case someone is having the same issue: Turn on image review and it will defish on image reviews. Nothing defish outside of that.
I have sept 28 ver loaded and I get an error message flashing in red along the top of the screen saying
[90] menu redraw task stack overflow: free=0 used =8192.
after installing sept 28, i made a few tests recording raw and this error message started. I was shooting 1280x720 crop mode 30 fps, which was running continuous until i hit the stop.
gary
ver sept 28, movie mode, ML menus wrench tab, LiveView zoom tweaks does not work if the crop mode is on. it works with the crop mode off. This is all in manual focus mode.
Gary
Can you show a video of the stack overflow? How to reproduce?
What should zooming do in crop mode, where the image is already zoomed in?
You can't zoom in crop mode... its a mode just like 5x/10x/1x, canon pops up a message saying zoom is not avail.
Only been trying the nightlies since 9/26, but I seem to be getting a lot of "Expo Limit Reached" errors when using ETTR. Nothing specific seems to trigger it. Never had it happen once with the original ML version I started off on, [EOSM]FullbackADTGui. At worst, that only had a few "Whoops" errors, but the biggest issue is that ETTR won't work again unless I take a photo or restart the camera, and that doesn't guarantee that the exposure limit error won't just come right back. Any ideas?
Quote from: a1ex on September 29, 2013, 06:55:01 PM
Can you show a video of the stack overflow? How to reproduce?
What should zooming do in crop mode, where the image is already zoomed in?
sorry I don't have a video to show of the stack overflow. I just tried about ten times to reproduce it. I must have been in 24 fps to have it shoot continuous. I only now get 160 frames in 30p, so I tried it many times in 24p and it is not showing up. I will try to remember more of what actually happens and save a video if it happens again.
I was exploring the menus and in the LiveView I noticed I could not set something. I realized that crop mode was on and that is why I wrote it here. I was not thinking of why I would need it.
Quote from: BlueBomberTurbo on September 29, 2013, 10:04:13 PM
Only been trying the nightlies since 9/26, but I seem to be getting a lot of "Expo Limit Reached" errors when using ETTR. Nothing specific seems to trigger it. Never had it happen once with the original ML version I started off on, [EOSM]FullbackADTGui. At worst, that only had a few "Whoops" errors, but the biggest issue is that ETTR won't work again unless I take a photo or restart the camera, and that doesn't guarantee that the exposure limit error won't just come right back. Any ideas?
Expo limit reached means you need to readjust your limits, like decreasing shutter speed limit or the noise limit thingy. But still, does ETTR already work properly on the EOS-M? It hunts for exposure a lot and can't seem to nail ETTR exposure properly most of the time.
Quote from: feureau on September 30, 2013, 02:53:04 AM
It hunts for exposure a lot and can't seem to nail ETTR exposure properly most of the time.
Same for me. I'd love to see fixes to ETTR and advanced bracketing
Is it helpful for us to say what we would "like" to be able to do? Or just annoying?
A few people have mentioned this one, and I wanted to add my wish for it: to be able to half-press shutter to get straight out of LiveView zoom tweak mode rather than have to wait for the, admittedly quite short, 1-2s delay. i.e. If I have focus ring ON and half-shutter OFF for Zoom Tweak, I would like to use half shutter to come straight out of zoom.
I mention it as this is my favourite feature at the moment which I am enjoying. Thank you so much to those working on this, it massively adds to the enjoyment of the EOS M.
I´ve been testing the latest builds and it works fine!
I have two questions:
1- What is needed for the bulb ramping (sunset, sunrise) mode to work?
2- Is there a way to take pictures while on video crop zoom mode? It will be great to have a picture at 10x on a 200mm lens! (even if its only 2mp).
Thanks for the great work guys!
Quote from: jerrykil on September 30, 2013, 03:32:30 AM
Same for me. I'd love to see fixes to ETTR and advanced bracketing
Hmm, not sure how it's supposed to work when it's working properly, but normally, mine would adjust exposure 3-4 times, bright -> dark -> bright etc., before settling on the final correct one.
On a happier note, looks like the newer builds actually work with Dual ISO! For whatever reason, [EOSM]FullbackADTGui wouldn't encode the CR2 properly, and would throw errors in CR2HDR.
Dual ISO was broken then... I posted on here that the pattern was meh, then found a fix with nanomad.
I'll check the ETTR, a1ex made changes to it but its still working on everything else. Surprised if its broken here.
(http://www.livememe.com/29ipyyp.jpg)
Quote from: jerrykil on September 30, 2013, 07:30:46 PM
(http://www.livememe.com/29ipyyp.jpg)
Well, pretty sure I know what I'm doing. Just hit the round button on the thingy and it will snap some purdy picatures, right?
Quote from: 1% on September 30, 2013, 06:12:55 PM
Dual ISO was broken then... I posted on here that the pattern was meh, then found a fix with nanomad.
I'll check the ETTR, a1ex made changes to it but its still working on everything else. Surprised if its broken here.
Wait, DualISO is working just fine with me. Is there something wrong? I can manually set exposures right and it shoots and process cleanly and perfectly with cr2hdr. It's dualISO with ETTR that isn't working properly...
Quote from: feureau on September 30, 2013, 09:51:00 PM
Wait, DualISO is working just fine with me. Is there something wrong?
He was referring to the old build that was posted. Dual_iso was fixed after that build and has been working flawless for some weeks now.
okay cool
Btw has anyone noticed the sometimes purple highlights when using image finetuning? Specifically with ML Digital ISO at -2.0EV. Try focusing/zooming in and out and watch the highlights sometimes turn purple. On certain shots, it will remain purple...
Also: Who set up the ml.bot-fly.com nightlies btw? Can you add the 7D build too please? :P Thanks for all the builds btw
Quote from: feureau on September 30, 2013, 11:57:51 PM
Can you add the 7D build too please?
yw, i'll post 7D.203 at ~11 AST.
I think we should post up some How-To's in order to help the team with the documentation front. For example, lots of EOS M users come in asking about where to get files and how to install them. Many of us aren't sure about the status of certain feature implementation and modules for the newly supported EOS models. Maybe some of us should put some time in and help with the documentation wiki?
Anyone interested?
Thanks
There's already that thread for n00b written by a n00b which explains how to bootflag the 7D n00bly btw.
1% says I should first try to see if I have the bug with the camera lens with Alex's autoexec.bin. Finding the exact steps I should take through the thread is, as usual challenging.
If anyone has a procedure they thing is the best I should follow let me know. This is a new camera and lens. Se we're starting absolutely from scratch. Thanks.
edit:nevermind
1%,
I just turned my camera on after being off for about an hour or more. I have ver sept 30 installed. I only set up the raw recording for 1280 16x9 non crop. I was moving thru the menus checking my settings and i went over to the canon menus and I got the red stack overflow message now at the top of the screen. [90] menu redraw task stack overflow free-0 used-8182. it's still there in other displays.
gary
I was moving around some menus quickly and got a crash too. However, camera is working great! Switched camera from Alex's bin to ML. I just pulled battery and started over.
ASSERT: !IS_ERROR( TryPostEvent( this->hTaskClass, this, EV_READOUTDONE_INTERRUPT_EVF, NULL, 0 ) )
at ./Evf/EvfState.c:479, task
lv:1 mode:0
Magic Lantern version : v2.3.NEXT.2013Oct02.EOSM202
Mercurial changeset : d0c3a6128c37+ (unified) tip
Built on 2013-10-02 04:13:56 UTC by [email protected].
Free Memory : 666K + 2368K
Ok, will have to see whats up.
*from today's compile I held down the wheel to turbo go through the menu, still no crash.
for AF... it speeds up to 60FPS when it AFs messing stuff up.
Random err60 happening when turning on camera: http://www.mediafire.com/download/c8ltvmlirgtw37b/Archive(2).zip
%1, having trouble with the 10/1? build. Shot fine for a day or two. Then I had a problem where it would turn on but screen would freeze. Took battery out. Did that a couple of times. Then it would only take RAW for about 2 seconds. I turned on debug report. Is that what I should do? Anyway, the dm.log file from that camera can be downloaded from maxotics.com/photos enter: "dmeosm", then you'll see a link to the zip.
The September build is working great on the other camera.
Anyway, just deleted RAW from camera and tried again. Same thing. No rush on this, of course. THANKS!
could it be possible someday to have raw video files playback in color on the camera LCD? Probably not, but just asking. also, to delete raw video files while using the camera? To transfer raw files using the USB cable to our computer and to see the files in windows explorer using USB? The only way now is to always remove the memory card and then use the computer card reader. Too bad Canon still uses the old USB 2 when we have USB 3 which is much faster.
Gary
Yes, feel free to do the math (tip: look in dcraw.c) and implement it fast enough (so it won't show 1 frame every 5 seconds).
I just installed the latest ML version Oct 5 and I was shooting raw video 1280x720p 24 fps and after about 10 seconds with Continuous recording I got the red stack overlay warning at the top of the display only this time it was flashing on and off.
Gary
help a raw noob, pleez.
I shot some raw video to see how long on Continuos it would go and it stopped which looks like at 4gb. There are two files now with the same name. what is the second file and how do i use it? it has an icon like a rar file. it's name is M06-0711.R00 at 256k and the normal file is M06-0711.RAW at 4.194 gb.
Gary
Before Alex tells you to read raw_rec.c ;) consider what the camera is doing. It's writing the image buffer to the memory card as fast as it can possibly. When it gets to the FAT 2 gig file limit it just starts a new file file.R00.
Some RAW software will join it for you, but you can do it yourself in a cmd prompt with something like
copy /b name.raw+name.r00 completefile.raw
Quote from: maxotics on October 07, 2013, 02:59:08 AM
Before Alex tells you to read raw_rec.c ;) consider what the camera is doing. It's writing the image buffer to the memory card as fast as it can possibly. When it gets to the FAT 2 gig file limit it just starts a new file file.R00.
Some RAW software will join it for you, but you can do it yourself in a cmd prompt with something like
copy /b name.raw+name.r00 completefile.raw
Max, thank you. I will try it now. and where can I find raw_rec.c to read? and what raw software will join the two?
Gary
edit, I found raw_rec.c thru google in Bitbuckey, but it is all stuff way over my head. I just need the simple explanation. I do know that there are some cameras and apps that have done this. I just never used them before.
Max,
I have tried to just open up the full 4gb file and all the frames are pure noise.
Gary
It's so hard to make jokes on the internet! :) the raw_rec.c was just a joke.
What are you using to open the file with? I don't know the solution, but a dev would want to know that.
Quote from: maxotics on October 07, 2013, 03:19:42 AM
It's so hard to make jokes on the internet! :) the raw_rec.c was just a joke.
What are you using to open the file with? I don't know the solution, but a dev would want to know that.
I use the latest PDR and then raw2dng. then the dng files open as a sequence in after effects.
What happens when you load the first dng? Irfanview is good free software to have for that (though you may need an additional feature pack for dng, I don't remember)
Quote from: maxotics on October 07, 2013, 03:37:13 AM
What happens when you load the first dng? Irfanview is good free software to have for that (though you may need an additional feature pack for dng, I don't remember)
I first tried raw2dng with the main 4gb file. It just flashed the black box on and off the screen and did nothing. I tried the raw2dng with the second file .R00 and it ran thru extracting all the dng files like normal. But when I looked at any of those dng files , they were all pure rainbow color noise. I just tried your copy/b command and got the same results. PDR gives me the corrupt file warning.
Have your tried recording over 4Gb in raw? If you do, maybe takes 10 minutes, you should get the same type of files I have here. Let the camera stop recording on it's own.
The first time it happened to me, it was fine. I was able to join files. The second time the card was full, so it was corrupted. That is, ML saves file information in the footer and the camera didn't have time to write it. However, i think I can get the video back, just don't care enough.
Because the second file is probably not starting on a full frame I would expect all the frames to be garbage. I used to think the RAW file structure was complicated, but after reading raw_rec.c (I have a programming background) I realized the frames are taken in byte chunks and it expects everything to be in its place. That doesn't mean you can't get your video out. You can, but the software needs to know where to start grabbing frames from.
You should try raw2dng on the first file. That one should give you dngs, in the beginning, that work. I'm not surprised .r00 did not work.
both files were all garbage, noise, dngs. i 'll try it once more. i am just testing to see what happens on continuos raw recording. i hope it can be made to just be seamless to the end user and also not stop recording. It will keep recording and making files that it needs and then they just butt up in editing. I think the Panasonic cameras do that. The Sony video cameras used to do it.
Gary
Hi,
From Raw Video/5DMkII Builds topic,
a.d. wrote:
"Joining files
WIN
Start dialog: cmd
1. cd C:\Users\my_destination_folder
2. copy /B xyz.RAW+xyz.R00+xyz.R01 xyz.RAW
OSX/LINUX
Start Terminal
1. cd /Volumes/my_destination_folder
2. cat xyz.RAW xyz.R00 xyz.R01 > xyz.RAW
Tips: cmd and Terminal support drag & drop => Don't need to type!"
So if you have windows, open a Command Prompt window, go to your destination folder, type "Copy /B" then drag drop your files from Rar to R00 (and so on), then type the name of the final file (something.RAW), press enter.
If you have a mac, open terminal and do the same thing (you just need an extra > sign before the final file name.
Hope it helps.
Melih
Melih,
thank you. that works.
gary
I've downloaded the latest version from http://ml.bot-fly.com/fir_files/ but get an error message during installation of ML - it misses some files (fonts in particular).
Should I compliment some 'basic' package with the content of the downloaded archive?
I wish he would put the font.dat file in the \data directory! While I'm here. I've created a single download of all the basic tools I use with the EOS-M, including one of the later builds. (1% is there one you recommend as the most stable--I'll replace with that). You can find it here. You can also find the fonts.dat file in the build included.
http://maxotics.com/software/downloading.aspx?file=EOSM_MLStarterSet20131008.zip
Quote from: maxotics on October 08, 2013, 03:21:02 PM
I wish he would put the font.dat file in the \data directory! While I'm here. I've created a single download of all the basic tools I use with the EOS-M, including one of the later builds. (1% is there one you recommend as the most stable--I'll replace with that). You can find it here. You can also find the fonts.dat file in the build included.
http://maxotics.com/software/downloading.aspx?file=EOSM_MLStarterSet.zip
Thank you very much!! Everything works like a charm now.
Quote(1% is there one you recommend as the most stable--I'll replace with that).
Latest is the nicest... I need to add audio controls + fix photo overlays + add dual ISO preview.
Quote from: maxotics on October 08, 2013, 03:21:02 PM
I wish he would put the font.dat file in the \data directory! While I'm here. I've created a single download of all the basic tools I use with the EOS-M, including one of the later builds. (1% is there one you recommend as the most stable--I'll replace with that). You can find it here. You can also find the fonts.dat file in the build included.
http://maxotics.com/software/downloading.aspx?file=EOSM_MLStarterSet.zip
i'll throw this in the nightly script. thanks for pointing that out
EDIT: i'll post some mac tools you could include in your EOSM_MLStarterSet.zip pack once i get a chance. great collection so far!
Thanks Jeryykil! That would be great. I'm also working on an EOS-M Shooter's Guide.
1%,
a few of us have been talking about recording raw with the M camera and how it reaches the 4gb limit rather quickly. That makes it difficult to shoot longer clips in raw like for an interview with someone on camera. Is there any fix for getting around this limit when shooting raw. I am shooting raw 1280 x 72op 24 fps with audio on second system to sync in post. We are aware of the 30 minute or 4gb limit whichever one comes first. I have been searching online and reading as much as I can find on it. Or, is it just not possible at all? I would hate to lose something important in an interview because of this limit. I know some will say to just use another video camera, but our goal is to try and use only the M and raw video all the time for a project in the future.
Best regards,
Gary
edit- also wondering if it is possible to record HDMI out full 1080p to an external recorder as an alternative to raw?
1% the 18-55 shutter problem still exist for the 7 Oct build
when I shoot raw video, 1280 x 720 crop mode i set the canon menu to be 1920 x 1980 p AND 24 fps. How come when I get the raw files down to tifs in Premiere Pro CC they always show up as 29.98 fps in the properties info and not 24 fps? I know it is 24 fps because the camera shoots continuous. If I shoot at 30 fps, I only get 150 frames recorded, not continuous.
Gary
Quote from: haomuch on October 09, 2013, 06:07:07 PM
1% the 18-55 shutter problem still exist for the 7 Oct build
Hi Haomuch, what SD card are you using? Thanks!
I have no shutter bug using the Oct 7 version.
Gary
Quote from: maxotics on October 09, 2013, 06:59:21 PM
Hi Haomuch, what SD card are you using? Thanks!
An 8GB class 10 wifi SD card. Produced by ez share.
ML does not advise Eye-fi cards so would think it the same for that card. Also, it's not a UHS-1 card, so won't do RAW video well. So far the people who have shutter bug issues are not using what I would recommend for a card
Gary: 128 Komputerbay (factory second)
Malakai: All Class 10 or lower cards
Haomuch: Class 10 and/or wif
1% will have to chime in here if this pattern means anything. I'm using a Sandisk 95MBS, 8GB in one camera, 32GB in the other, with no shutter bug.
Quote from: maxotics on October 09, 2013, 07:07:49 PM
ML does not advise Eye-fi cards so would think it the same for that card. Also, it's not a UHS-1 card, so won't do RAW video well. So far the people who have shutter bug issues are not using what I would recommend for a card
Gary: 128 Komputerbay (factory second)
Malakai: All Class 10 or lower cards
Haomuch: Class 10 and/or wif
1% will have to chime in here if this pattern means anything. I'm using a Sandisk 95MBS, 8GB in one camera, 32GB in the other, with no shutter bug.
update your info on what card I am actually using. it's in my signature here
Hi Gary, I saw that but thought you don't have shutter bug with that card? Just to clarify. I'll try some long video today by the way...soon.
@maxotics I don't use raw video so class 10 card is already enough for me. And I also tried on another class 4 non wifi SanDisk card but the problem remains. I think it's still a firmware and software problem instead of a card problem because it doesn't involve much read and writing process when I just try to release the shutter.
Understood, but it may be a read/write buffer issue, if the faster cards don't have a problem. Sorry if I implied your ML use isn't important :)
Not at all. Just wish the developer could figure out the reason and solve it.
@Gary, @1%, I can't record longer than about 55 seconds. The camera just stops when the RAW file gets to 1.9GB. I also tried formatting the card as exFAT in Windows, with 4096 block sizes, and that didn't change anything. I also notice that the camera will auto-format FAT32, so avoided that with PC format. Anyway, Gary, looks to me you're right. On my 50D when it reaches 2GB it starts a second R00 file.
Running October 6th Build, Sandisk 8GB, 95MBS card.
With raw_rec?
Yes, raw_rec only.
Weird, I just compiled new 50D to check and it changes at 4.1GB.
My 50D build is old. Can test new build later though. I was just talking about EOS-M.
EOSM has a pretty tiny buffer but nothing changed with raw_rec. I'll have to check.
It starts filming. Everything is fine, then about 56 seconds the screen turns off. When I touch it again, the recording has stopped. Don't know if screen turning off is related.
It is... also check power save. Both were set to 1 minute and it would stop recording
That was it! I changed LCD- and camera-off to 10 minutes. Shot continuously for almost 4 minutes and it only stopped because RAW file ended at 7.9GB. No separate files. Awesome 1%! Will try a 5 minute with my 32GB card later and will put that through post.
Quote from: maxotics on October 09, 2013, 09:11:41 PM
@Gary, @1%, I can't record longer than about 55 seconds. The camera just stops when the RAW file gets to 1.9GB. I also tried formatting the card as exFAT in Windows, with 4096 block sizes, and that didn't change anything. I also notice that the camera will auto-format FAT32, so avoided that with PC format. Anyway, Gary, looks to me you're right. On my 50D when it reaches 2GB it starts a second R00 file.
Running October 6th Build, Sandisk 8GB, 95MBS card.
Max, make sure you set Canon menu power save to off and 30 minutes. make sure you set Canon to record 1920 x 1080 24 fps, but set your raw to 1280 x720 WITH crop mode on. you should get continuous recording with a vcard that writes at least 40 mb/s. my card does 45 mb/s. now should get 4GB files plus one extra when it reaches the limit and shuts off. then use that command line cpp[y /b file.raw+file.roo new file.raw I have tried the ML Movie Tweaks Movie Restart and it doesn't work. It always stops at the 4gb file and will not restart. It should lose one or two seconds at the restart but it never does restart.
Gary
Quote from: maxotics on October 09, 2013, 09:54:03 PM
That was it! I changed LCD- and camera-off to 10 minutes. Shot continuously for almost 4 minutes and it only stopped because RAW file ended at 7.9GB. No separate files. Awesome 1%! Will try a 5 minute with my 32GB card later and will put that through post.
How are you getting 7.9 GB?? read my reply I was typing while you were posting here.
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on October 09, 2013, 09:56:30 PM
How are you getting 7.9 GB??
You'd have to ask 1% :) I'm running the October 8th build from Jerrykil's site. From my end, card is exFAT, 4096 block size. 8GB
Quote from: maxotics on October 09, 2013, 09:59:06 PM
You'd have to ask 1% :) I'm running the October 8th build from Jerrykil's site. From my end, card is exFAT, 4096 block size. 8GB
I assumed 1% is reading all this with his replies to you. How do you get an exfat on your card? I formatted as exfat and the canon formatted it like usual. It goes back to fat 32 like I have been saying in my posts before. did you use eoscard on your card?
Gary
EOScard utility won't change the format of the card, only put the hidden boot files on, AFAIK. The utility does seem to recognize if card is FAT32 or exFAT.
What I do is format card in camera, copy empty DCIM, MISC folders to a folder I create for each build, in this casel Build20131008. I also put in the ML and autoexec.bin file from the latest build.
I then formatted card on PC, picking exFAT and block sizes of 4096.
I then EOSCard the card (checking boot and develop)
(there might be a way to stop EOScard from putting on ML, but I don't know, anyway, I just delete everything from card after EOScard does its thing)
I then copy all the files from Build20131008 to the empty card (though there are hidden files on it from EOScard I assume).
I then put card in camera and start.
Thanx Max. I am still waiting on answers for some of my other questions. Like Record Restart and why it doesn't show 24 fps and only 30 fps. maybe 1% went out for dinner.
Gary
Quote from: maxotics on October 09, 2013, 10:09:30 PM
EOScard utility won't change the format of the card, only put the hidden boot files on, AFAIK. The utility does seem to recognize if card is FAT32 or exFAT.
What I do is format card in camera, copy empty DCIM, MISC folders to a folder I create for each build, in this casel Build20131008. I also put in the ML and autoexec.bin file from the latest build.
I then formatted card on PC, picking exFAT and block sizes of 4096.
I then EOSCard the card (checking boot and develop)
(there might be a way to stop EOScard from putting on ML, but I don't know, anyway, I just delete everything from card after EOScard does its thing)
I then copy all the files from Build20131008 to the empty card (though there are hidden files on it from EOScard I assume).
I then put card in camera and start.
The routines that were said many times here since I joined is to format the card on the computer then format it on the Camera with the Canon format and then back to the computer to install ML. You seem to be skipping that second format on the camera part. ?? I am somewhat hesitant about eoscard.exe. I think it put hidden files on my last card causing me problems. I also never did got an answer to that question before. I think eoscard is only for 64 gb and 128 gb cards. I now have a 32 gb card.
Gary
In order for the camera to boot form the card the SD card has to have a hidden boot file. You can't live without EOScard, or a similar utility. 1% will say, if otherwise. I'm curious too.
The old instructions were meant to make sure the camera had Canon's folders DCIM and MISC, which it expects. I'm almost certain it doesn't do anything else. So you can copy those files form PC, like I do. So if you want exFAT, then you must format in PC last.
In previous builds, I would see 1920x1080 30fps next to the movie setting. I no longer see that. In any case, it only applied to H.264 recording and had no bearing, as far as I know, on RAW recording. So where are you seeing it? 1% will want to know what build you have.
RAW depends on 4 settings
1. FPS
2. Aspect ratio 16:9, 2.35:1, etc.
3. Resolution, like 1280x720
4. Crop mode?
I believe everything else is extraneous. 1% can say if there are other settings that should also be priorities.
Quote from: maxotics on October 09, 2013, 10:37:43 PM
In order for the camera to boot form the card the SD card has to have a hidden boot file. You can't live without EOScard, or a similar utility. 1% will say, if otherwise. I'm curious too.
The old instructions were meant to make sure the camera had Canon's folders DCIM and MISC, which it expects. I'm almost certain it doesn't do anything else. So you can copy those files form PC, like I do. So if you want exFAT, then you must format in PC last.
In previous builds, I would see 1920x1080 30fps next to the movie setting. I no longer see that. In any case, it only applied to H.264 recording and had no bearing, as far as I know, on RAW recording. So where are you seeing it? 1% will want to know what build you have.
RAW depends on 4 settings
1. FPS
2. Aspect ratio 16:9, 2.35:1, etc.
3. Resolution, like 1280x720
4. Crop mode?
I believe everything else is extraneous. 1% can say if there are other settings that should also be priorities.
I understand about the canon files. I just did it all as you said except for the eoscard. I am testing the raw record now and it is going longer and has not stopped yet.
I think the Canon setting reflect back to the ML raw. so if it is 30 p, then raw records 30p. thus, I only get 150 frames recorded. I go back to the canon menu and change it to 24 p and now the raw records continuous since it is doing 24p. When I get into editing with premiere pro cc, it shows them all as having a frame rate of 29.98 and not the 23.98, which it should do.
gary
This will be interesting to see when i get it all extracted. I just recorded one whole file that shows as 21.5 GB. That seems odd. It was shot raw, 1280x720, 24 fps crop mode. I am transferring it now off the card and it will take quite awhile even on my USB 3 card reader.
gary
update-it is extracting 14,351 raw frames now.
I fixed some M stuff, raw overlays and dual_iso preview works now.. make sure its not writing into the CR2.
Quote from: 1% on October 09, 2013, 11:27:00 PM
I fixed some M stuff, raw overlays and dual_iso preview works now.. make sure its not writing into the CR2.
how do i make sure it is not writing into the Cr2? I have never done anything with cr2 before.
I shot a bit over 5 minutes. File size around 10.1 GB. Converted to Cineform through RAWanizer. RAWanizer thought it was 30fps. It was 24. (I could have changed that through a param if I felt like it). Anyway, watched the whole thing. Was fine. So to me, looks like long recording is working very well on the EOS-M!
I am still extracting. On 10,000 frames out of 14, 351 frames and I started over an hour ago, 4:38 PM. LOL Hello H.264 my old friend. I am sorry I have left you sitting here with nothing to do. Please show me that wonderful look raw was giving me. :-)
Gary
At 24fps you shot close to 10 minutes. I hope you have more interesting things to shoot them me. My 5 minutes bored me to tears at Porter Square and was even more excruciatingly boring when I watched it on the PC. The main thing is that it works fine. My experience so far is that if the image looks good on LV it usually ends up find in RAW.
Quotehow do i make sure it is not writing into the Cr2? I have never done anything with cr2 before.
Take a raw photo with dual iso and it should have a square in the preview... open it on the computer and make sure no parts of the square remain in the actual raw image you get in photoshop/etc/
also, preview is a setting in the dual_iso module so if you're wondering why you're getting no square...
Quote from: 1% on October 10, 2013, 12:05:31 AM
Take a raw photo with dual iso and it should have a square in the preview... open it on the computer and make sure no parts of the square remain in the actual raw image you get in photoshop/etc/
also, preview is a setting in the dual_iso module so if you're wondering why you're getting no square...
Well, I did not see any square. And, that problem I had before is still here. That being when I use the USB cable to transfer files to the computer, then unplug the uSB cable from the camera, the camera will not shut down properly. It gets stuck on the Sensor cleaning display at power off. I have to pull the battery and then reload all the modules. AND, the shutter bug is now back. Something happened, obviously, from all this long raw record tests and this dual iso test. :-(
Gary
update-I got back to somewhat normal with no shutter bug by a lot of reinstalling starting with Alex's minimal autoexec and reformatting . 1%, I still get those stack overflow messages now and then popping up in red on the top of the display.
The USB cable thing seems to be doing something to shoot_malloc... you can't record raw video after pulling the cable.
Quoteobviously
Yea obviously since even a1ex's blank bin does it.
Quote from: 1% on October 10, 2013, 01:31:21 AM
The USB cable thing seems to be doing something to shoot_malloc... you can't record raw video after pulling the cable.
Yea obviously since even a1ex's blank bin does it.
I have not tried that. I just try to shut the camera off after pulling the cable and it sticks on sensor cleaning. I have to leave the cable in and then shut it off and then pull the cable and then turn the camera on again to continue with whatever which is not good because maybe I don't need to shut down the camera at that point in time. I may want to do more things before shutting down instead of raw rec.
It gets even weirder:
USB IN/OUT - camera can't use do dm log anymore, raw video broken, turn off then power on leaves light flashing. Plug the cable in and the camera mounts and can be browsed.
Disable ALL malloc usage, USB cable in/out
Camera goes to sensor cleaning, pressing power again brings back LV, can't shut camera off
Copy & restart, same as above
change bin to use only 512KB vs 640Kb, dual ISO is broken, the address of the regs changed
so yea, I'm confused as fuck.
USB is so freakin over-engineered I wouldn't be surprised if the camera dumps all its firmware just to load the code to run the protocol. That is to say, once you plug a USB cable into the camera you ain't in Kansas anymore. Shooting from the hip, I'd just say, don't use USB with ML. Or, write a letter to all the manufacturers and ask them to bring Firewire back :)
Yea but all this might be related to the shutter bug, there is some weird memory behavior... this is what was causing hard freeze on 6D using wifi early on.
The camera does shut off LV completely when using USB and goes into some kind of attached storage mode.
Quote from: maxotics on October 10, 2013, 03:08:04 AM
USB is so freakin over-engineered I wouldn't be surprised if the camera dumps all its firmware just to load the code to run the protocol. That is to say, once you plug a USB cable into the camera you ain't in Kansas anymore. Shooting from the hip, I'd just say, don't use USB with ML. Or, write a letter to all the manufacturers and ask them to bring Firewire back :)
Thunderbolt :-)
Quote from: 1% on October 10, 2013, 03:34:51 AM
Yea but all this might be related to the shutter bug, there is some weird memory behavior... this is what was causing hard freeze on 6D using wifi early on.
The camera does shut off LV completely when using USB and goes into some kind of attached storage mode.
USB never worked correctly with the Canon software that is suppose to control the camera and provide a remote view of the images. through the USB cable. We also need the USB to transfer/register picture style files..
I hope any/all of this does help you in some way, 1%.
gary
If anyone is interested, -that 21.5 gb file i shot using raw video at 1280x720, 24 fps crop mode ended up as 8 minutes on the timeline as one long clip using a tif sequence. I am not sure how long the whole workflow turned out to be, but I would guess it was an hour and half, give or take. That's a lot of work to get 8 minutes of 720p 24 raw. And that was on one 32 gb sandisk card that handles 45 mb/s write. Imagine doing an important interview that can easily last an hour and all the cards you need, the swapping and all that long post production time. The Black Magic Cinema Camera with its removable SSD drives looks pretty good now compared to this. It shoots raw with a 13 stop dynamic range. You can save a ton of time with that over what we use now for raw in the M. Shooting some B roll with the M in raw and some short special FX would also be good for the M and raw. Or a fast short interview. :-)
Gary
Quoteand provide a remote view of the images
It won't, it shuts down LV. If it had a better designed "photo" mode it would work for remote shooting.
The M H264 is ok, it really sucks wav doesn't work, it would make a nice little tape recorder with the dual mics and lens cap on.
The shutter button don't work when i use rokinon fisheye lens with the EOS M adaptor. It is a manual lens and why isn't EOS M won't take a photo with Manual lens
Hi Escaperoute. What SD card are you using? There may be a memory read/write issue between ML and some of these cards. No one, so far, has had a shutter bug problem with the EF lenses (only the M lenses with IS). That's what I mostly use too.
Quote from: Escaperoute on October 10, 2013, 01:13:12 PM
The shutter button don't work when i use rokinon fisheye lens with the EOS M adaptor. It is a manual lens and why isn't EOS M won't take a photo with Manual lens
You may have turn the camera out of P Tv Av and M modes.
And menu "Shoot without Lens" set correctly too, just to be safe.
Quote from: haomuch on October 10, 2013, 02:12:19 PM
You may have turn the camera out of P Tv Av and M modes.
... or you may have to change to "Release shutter without Lens" under "Custom Functions (Nr. 7)". This helpes if the camera doesn´t realize that there ist is a lens in use - which might be the case here. If so it has got nothing to do with ML.
Oh didn´t see that maxotics mentioned this already.
Sounds better coming from a Funky guy ;)
Thanks for the help, really awesome...
hey guys,
i haven't been able to build last couple nights. anyone know a fix?
http://tl.bot-fly.com/EOSM.202_make_error_code_2_2013Oct10.log
thanks
Try to make clean. Both on modules and the bin.
still not goin
What about the commit just now?
same:
make -C ../../modules
Building module raw_rec...
/bin/sh: -c: line 1: syntax error: unexpected end of file
make[3]: *** [delete_if_failed] Error 2
make[2]: *** [raw_rec_rule_delete_if_failed] Error 2
make[1]: *** [all] Error 2
make: *** [CONFIG_MODULES_compile] Error 2
Now I tested and it compiled.
Hey~ it works now, thanks 1%!
bahhh make zip isn't packaging modules now. spoke too soon
EDIT: its the modules/Makefile file calling for the delete_if_failed thing that a1ex added so that it would not abort making if one of the modules failed. i don't really get how makefiles work so i can just delete that part and compile the mods that work, like before.
basically i really wanna play with the stuff u guys added the last couple days (i know i'm not alone)
Is it possible to have Dark Frame Subtraction?
"Controls the application of the Dark Frame Subtraction feature of your camera. Dark Frame Subtraction is a function used to reduce the effects of sensor noise - especially useful when exposure times are 1.3 seconds or longer. When dark frame subtraction is enabled, the camera essentially takes two pictures with the same exposure time - once with the shutter open and then again with the shutter closed. By subtracting the second frame's pixel values from the first frame's, the camera automatically removes most sensor thermal noise from the image."
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK_1.2.0_User_Manual
Badpixel removal
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Badpixel_removal
To remove defective pixels in an image in CHDK, there is the Bad pixel removal feature. Once a list containing all the bad pixels for your camera has been generated, CHDK can remove them automatically. The file with the badpixel data is named badpixel
Yea, I'm hoping for that too.. especially for video. Right now I'm just recording some 2 or 3 sec of dark frame before if I know I'm using iso above 800.
Firstly - amazing work! Thanks so much to all involved!
Very quick question - I'm trying to achieve a clean 1080 output via HDMI; so far I've managed a lovely clean overlay-free output, but not seemingly at 1080 - any clues on the correct settings to achieve that would be most welcome, thanks.
Or is there some documentation you can direct me to?
Once again, huge thanks to the ML team - it really is hugely impressive!
Andy
Quote from: jerrykil on October 11, 2013, 05:49:05 AM
bahhh make zip isn't packaging modules now. spoke too soon
EDIT: its the modules/Makefile file calling for the delete_if_failed thing that a1ex added so that it would not abort making if one of the modules failed. i don't really get how makefiles work so i can just delete that part and compile the mods that work, like before.
basically i really wanna play with the stuff u guys added the last couple days (i know i'm not alone)
Jerry, I had problems with your ver Oct 11th and Oct 10th. I now am using the Oct 8th version (also with the shutter Bug).
Gary
Quote from: jerrykil on October 11, 2013, 05:49:05 AM
bahhh make zip isn't packaging modules now. spoke too soon
EDIT: its the modules/Makefile file calling for the delete_if_failed thing that a1ex added so that it would not abort making if one of the modules failed. i don't really get how makefiles work so i can just delete that part and compile the mods that work, like before.
basically i really wanna play with the stuff u guys added the last couple days (i know i'm not alone)
no more magic lantern, now it's tragic lantern?
gary
ML Oct 11th ver will not load modules. Keep getting err for each one. Tried 20 times now with reboots. Tried the debug and the load ofter crash and they do not work like it used to do for me. No luck no matter what I try.
Gary
update, finally got most to load by not loading dot tune, bolt an silent modules.
sorry, i had to hg up -C cuz of makefile changes i made earlier. gary, thats entire my bad, i often have to fix up the builds i post. best practice is to not load modules you don't use because not all are supported by EOSM yet or ever will be, i'll fix this, again
Quote from: jerrykil on October 12, 2013, 12:11:17 PM
sorry, i had to hg up -C cuz of makefile changes i made earlier. gary, thats entire my bad, i often have to fix up the builds i post. best practice is to not load modules you don't use because not all are supported by EOSM yet or ever will be, i'll fix this, again
it's ok. I am just letting u know what I see here. I am still not sure what all the modules do, but i am slowly finding out.
Gary
New here., ;D
Can we use magic lantern for version 2 of EOS-m? are there any bugs? how can i download everything?my eos-m is still in version 1., thanks guys in advance ^_^
Quote from: yno0o_15 on October 12, 2013, 02:22:45 PM
New here., ;D
Can we use magic lantern for version 2 of EOS-m? are there any bugs? how can i download everything?my eos-m is still in version 1., thanks guys in advance ^_^
welcome to the forum. first go to the Canon website and get the version 2.0.2 firmware and upgrade your M camera.
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_m_ef_m_22mm_stm_kit?selectedName=DriversAndSoftware
there are bugs. that's why we are all here trying to help the devs fix things. :)
Gary
QuoteVery quick question - I'm trying to achieve a clean 1080 output via HDMI; so far I've managed a lovely clean overlay-free output, but not seemingly at 1080 - any clues on the correct settings to achieve that would be most welcome, thanks.
No clean HDMI, you have the same crappy HDMI that every other canon besides 5DIII v2.
On 6D it *might* be possible to port or hack this in, on other canons probably not.
I can take some makefile changes as a pull req.. I just did the version lazily
On 650D there is an option call Eyefi fix, it is very useful for eyefi card, since it rename the cr2 file to avi file, so i can transfer all the raw file with eyefi card wireless. Please Devs can i request this feature for future build since i can only afford Eyefi mobi cards, it can't transfer raw file wireless. It will really help my mobile photo editing.
I can add eyefi tricks but no clue if they work... they work on 650D no issues?
Wat is this!
Quote
DlgLiveView.c PROP_RETRACTABLE_LENS_STATUS(0)
copyDataToStorage eventID(0x80030074)Data(0)size(0)
PROP_RETRACTABLE_LENS_STATUS (0)
Someone check this please with shutter bug and without shutter bug.
Quote from: 1% on October 12, 2013, 07:11:31 PM
I can add eyefi tricks but no clue if they work... they work on 650D no issues?
Wat is this!
Someone check this please with shutter bug and without shutter bug.
How to check? And what about the eysfi card support?
Beside, the latest build still didn't improve the live view auto room function. And I found that the live view will be triggered to auto room even by LCD touch shutter, which shouldn't involve half shutter process. Can we figure out a work around for it?
Half shutter is the same key for touch shutter so its going to be triggered. The MZ I have to figure out.. I have the same issue on 7D and anything else with no zoom button while recording.
For the property you just set it up in the prop browser and see what value there is.
Quote from: gary2013 on October 12, 2013, 05:23:16 PM
welcome to the forum. first go to the Canon website and get the version 2.0.2 firmware and upgrade your M camera.
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_m_ef_m_22mm_stm_kit?selectedName=DriversAndSoftware
there are bugs. that's why we are all here trying to help the devs fix things. :)
Gary
thank you sir for the quick reply., ^_^
Quote from: yno0o_15 on October 13, 2013, 01:39:01 PM
thank you sir for the quick reply., ^_^
you are welcome. did you find how to install the ML? you can get the latest builds from http://tl.bot-fly.com/ make sure you download the EOS M version only.
Gary
Quote from: 1% on October 12, 2013, 09:06:08 PM
For the property you just set it up in the prop browser and see what value there is.
I didn't see a change after reattaching the lens or when the shutter bug was missing from the time i booted. i also couldn't change prop.k past 80 dec, so i put this in my config to get it to 80030074.
prop.k = 116
prop.j = 3
prop.i = 128
It was worth a shot as 6D et all don't seem to have this prop.
I tried to shoot a bunch of photos at a friend's Bar Mitvah. Not only did I experience the shutter-bug, but the whole operation of the camera seemed very slow and buggy (after the lens twist). I put the camera in P mode and the screen would look for the proper exposure very slowly; that is, the screen would go dark to lighter slowly. After a few photos the screen would also get corrupted, unreadable, so that I had to hit the play button just to get a normal screen again.
The cameras were so unusable, in photo mode, that I took ML off them both before the reception. I apologize to anyone I suggested this was a minimal problem ;)
Something is rotten with this shutter bug. Its only not a big deal if you don't have the 2? lenses it affects. If you don't everything is normal. The screen corruption also seems to suggest its memory related.
1% I believe I had problems with the 22mm too. I love the video when I have the Sigma 10-20mm EF attached. The image stabilization on the 18-55 is fantastic (but is long in crop mode). Anyway, assume would be the same for the 11-22mm. That lens is now $400 on Henry's in Canada. If the "shutter-bug" problem can be solved and those lenses start selling in the U.S., which is certain if Canon releases a new model of the EOS-M this month, then this camera should wake up a lot of people.
I've been comparing near 1080p on my 50d with the 720p from the EOS-M. Yes, it's sharper, but the high-dynamic range is the same.
Is there anyone else working on this problem beside you and Alex? What are the prospects for it to get fixed do you think? Is this one of the hardest problems you've seen, perhaps unsolvable, or is it just a matter of time?
Matter of time.. remember that 600D problem mentioned that took a year... raw video took a year (from first poking at Mjpeg, etc), 6D wifi/ issue took like 3 months. I think everyone has poked at it but not an easy thing to solve.
I have no probs on the 22mm with no IS but the 11-22 is probably a different story. What I don't get is why this wasn't an issue on the earlier FW.. or it was and not enough people had EOSM to notice.
Not enough people. I didn't have the 18-55 until recently, and didn't shoot many photos. Mostly it's been Malakai, Gary, Jerrykil, haomuch, funkysound, myself and a few others. However, many have joined recently.
I'm thinking of keeping 2 cards with each camera. One, the latest build, and the other with the do-nothing autoexec.bin file. That doesn't create a bug right?
or maybe I should turn off auto-boot? Should we create another thread "EOS M Alpha Photo Mode Only" The thread gets confusing when we have both photo and video issues going at the same time. Any thoughts anyone?
Maybe one card not bootable with no ML for the 18-55 and one card with ML for shooting video and not with the 2 affected lenses.
It sucks too because its a neat little camera and its wide angles and constant LV are kinda nice for tricky shots.
hey max and 1%,
the do-nothing autoexec.bin also causes the problem. i haven't been able to get a bug with it, but malakai has.
I'd say that if you wanna have one non-ML and one ML card, then you should have no autoexec.bin present at all on one of the cards. the minimal build just boots the stock canon FW without any hint of ML tweakings but also has the bug associated. the other option is to turn off the boot flag with the installer .fir file. I think it would be quicker to pop in a non-ML flash than dig through the menus and re-install FW, switch the flag, and reboot the camera.
As for the shutterbug on FW106, I do recall having problems back then. I had just gotten my camera and i didn't think much of it because it was very early alpha at that time. I think once i started reading the forum it became apparent that it was more widespread, esp for users who didn't have the 22mm.
Quote from: 1% on October 13, 2013, 10:14:55 PM
Maybe one card not bootable with no ML for the 18-55 and one card with ML for shooting video and not with the 2 affected lenses.
It sucks too because its a neat little camera and its wide angles and constant LV are kinda nice for tricky shots.
ML kinda makes the camera for me. i would have bought another if this project wasn't around...shutter-bug and all, i don't really mind. tweaker at heart :P
Def ML + non shutterbug lens > non ML + shutter bug lens.. booting without canon firmware the camera is pretty bare bones.
Quote from: maxotics on October 13, 2013, 10:07:19 PM
I'm thinking of keeping 2 cards with each camera. One, the latest build, and the other with the do-nothing autoexec.bin file. That doesn't create a bug right?
/quote]
I get the bug with minimal autoexec
gary
Thanks Gary. I think we should have best practices for ourselves and new people so they'll use/continue to use the camera while the bug is figured out?
1% kinda nailed it right here:
Quote from: 1% on October 13, 2013, 10:14:55 PM
Maybe one card not bootable with no ML for the 18-55 and one card with ML for shooting video and not with the 2 affected lenses.
a card for shooting video and using 22mm (if you are like me and still having good luck with it), and then another card for still with no autoexec.bin
Quote from: jerrykil on October 14, 2013, 12:59:58 AM
1% kinda nailed it right here:a card for shooting video and using 22mm (if you are like me and still having good luck with it), and then another card for still with no autoexec.bin
or, just use the camera with any lens and the bug for video, like I do. If I need pictures, I do a fast power cycle until hopefully the bug gets fixed.
Gary
I am using Oct 12th ver and I have the shutter bug. I replaced the autoexec with the minimal autoexec and the shutter bug was still there. I deleted the ML folder and the fir file and rebooted. the bug was still there. i did a Canon format and did not tap the scree to leave the ML files on disk. I rebooted and the bug was gone. I copy pasted Oct 12th ver files and the bug is gone. BUT, there are no modules loaded. I held off loading any modules to get some feedback on this. I would bet that if IU load some modules, the bug will come back. What do you think? which module(s) do you think have the bug? Because I don't have the bug right now with Oct 12th ver loaded (minus the modules).
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on October 14, 2013, 03:26:42 AM
I am using Oct 12th ver and I have the shutter bug. I replaced the autoexec with the minimal autoexec and the shutter bug was still there. I deleted the ML folder and the fir file and rebooted. the bug was still there. i did a Canon format and did not tap the scree to leave the ML files on disk. I rebooted and the bug was gone. I copy pasted Oct 12th ver files and the bug is gone. BUT, there are no modules loaded. I held off loading any modules to get some feedback on this. I would bet that if IU load some modules, the bug will come back. What do you think? which module(s) do you think have the bug? Because I don't have the bug right now with Oct 12th ver loaded (minus the modules).
Gary
I think the current hypothesis is that it has nothing to do with the ML code but more to do with the boot method. I"ve pulled my hair out loading unloading and i try all the different builds, but it makes no difference. just reboot a couple times and you'll get it again
Quote from: jerrykil on October 14, 2013, 03:45:38 AM
I think the current hypothesis is that it has nothing to do with the ML code but more to do with the boot method. I"ve pulled my hair out loading unloading and i try all the different builds, but it makes no difference. just reboot a couple times and you'll get it again
I said exactly what happened. I made sure before I posted by trying a dozen times of rebooting and I still have no bug with all the modules sitting there not loaded yet. I think I have rebooted more than enough to make my point. This is something new for me after all the times I have explored this issue.
Gary
I'll try that Gary.
Okay, put latest 12th build on. Camera must have already had boot flag still on (thought I disabled), booted straight to ML. Shooting seemed fine. Put it in P mode like Bar Mitzvah. Put flash on. Took a few shots. Everything fine.
Loaded raw_rec. took photos, re-cycle camera.
Took photos, everything fine.
Changed frame rate only to 24. Camera seems sluggish focusing then. Might be my imagination.
Picked raw resolution, hacks on, etc. Tried to take video, didnt' work. Realized I was still in photo mode. Change into movie mode. Tried to take photo. CAMERA COMPLETELY FROZE.
Restart camera in movie mode. Camera will say "not shut down correctly, modules not loading". Press on shutter, FREEZES CAMERA.
Seems to me camera will freeze if you even HALF PRESS shutter button in movie mode if raw_rec is loaded.
HOWEVER, if I switch to MANUAL focus mode in movie, that half-press shutter doesn't freeze camera. It seems there is something in the auto focus in video mode that does something naughty.
My situation was that you start with Oct 12th loaded and that you HAVE the shutter bug. Then I went form there as I explained. Anyone who has the bug with Oct 12th loaded (probably any version) should try what I did with replacing the autoexec with the minimal autoexec and all the steps I made after that so we can see if more people experience what I have done. I still have no bug cus I have not loaded any modules yet.
Gary
I started with the Oct 12th build and couldn't get the shutter bug on the 18-55mm camera. It only freezes when I did the above. What are your settings at start up? Gary see if you get the same freeze I do. We want bugs that are reproducible on everyone's camera. Right?
Just tried same on Class 10 card. Same thing. No bug, changed many settings. Camera of on. Freeze when shutter press in movie mode in auto focus as above.
Quote from: maxotics on October 14, 2013, 05:44:16 AM
I started with the Oct 12th build and couldn't get the shutter bug on the 18-55mm camera. It only freezes when I did the above. What are your settings at start up? Gary see if you get the same freeze I do. We want bugs that are reproducible on everyone's camera. Right?
Just tried same on Class 10 card. Same thing. No bug, changed many settings. Camera of on. Freeze when shutter press in movie mode in auto focus as above.
I do not get the freezes and sluggishness you say you have. I have had freezes in the past that only happened when I tried pushing some button while it was recording raw. I do not remember exactly. I had to pull battery to get out of the freeze. It maybe happened to me three times over the last three months. If it does happen again in the future, I will need to write down or post here right after it happens.
I am going to hold off loading any modules so as to keep the bug off my camera until I hear from 1% and Alex about this. Maybe they will want me to try loading a certain module to see what happens.
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on October 14, 2013, 03:26:42 AM
I am using Oct 12th ver and I have the shutter bug. I replaced the autoexec with the minimal autoexec and the shutter bug was still there.
i lose the bug when i boot the minimal .bin
i've rebooted about 20 times, sometimes pulling battery between power cycles. i notice that canons FW/minimal build FW never does the second orange blink light like ML does. anyway, i wasn't able to get the shutter bug. usually about 5 reboots will get me a shutter bug. this is why i was skeptical when people reported having the shutterbug with the minimal .bin. makes it harder when everyones cameras act different, too
Quote from: gary2013 on October 14, 2013, 03:26:42 AM
I deleted the ML folder and the fir file and rebooted. the bug was still there. i did a Canon format and did not tap the scree to leave the ML files on disk. I rebooted and the bug was gone. I copy pasted Oct 12th ver files and the bug is gone. BUT, there are no modules loaded. I held off loading any modules to get some feedback on this. I would bet that if IU load some modules, the bug will come back. What do you think? which module(s) do you think have the bug? Because I don't have the bug right now with Oct 12th ver loaded (minus the modules).
seems pointless to do the rest for me since if the minimal bin has no bugs then why would the stock FW?
Gary, i suggest getting the shutter bug, and then following your own procedure one more time to see if its reproducible...
edit: so i formatted my card, did the card utility, put oct12th on the clean card, didn't have the bug for like 12 boot cycles and then i guess i uncleanly shut down and restarted the camera and i couldn't shoot
Quote from: jerrykil on October 14, 2013, 06:12:06 AM
i lose the bug when i boot the minimal .bin
i've rebooted about 20 times, sometimes pulling battery between power cycles. i notice that canons FW/minimal build FW never does the second orange blink light like ML does. anyway, i wasn't able to get the shutter bug. usually about 5 reboots will get me a shutter bug. this is why i was skeptical when people reported having the shutterbug with the minimal .bin. makes it harder when everyones cameras act different, tooseems pointless to do the rest for me since if the minimal bin has no bugs then why would the stock FW?
Gary, i suggest getting the shutter bug, and then following your own procedure one more time to see if its reproducible...
One thing I did not do was pull the battery during all of my steps. And I always leave the bootflag on. If you have no bug with minimal autoexec, do you still have no bug when you install Oct 12th ver after that and do not load any modules? If you load all the modules, do you still not have the bug or do you.
Gary
I am still on the rootwang version from a while back.
I've been to a wedding, 2 family get together, 2 toddler birthday parties, and I'm now on holiday. All through that time I have mainly been using the 18-55mm, occasionally swapping to the 22mm. I only take photos, I have never tried to record video.
I'm yet to see the shutter bug.
hello everybody
once again, I'd like to give the point of view of a professional videomaker on the porting of ML on the EOS M, hoping it will be useful to our valiant developers.
first of all, thanks to you all for your work, since the M powered with ML is potentially, in my opinion, the best HD video option on the market for canon lens owners, for a ridiculous price.
so, let's get to the point
1 FOCUS PEAKING
it works, it is usable, but I find it much more effective and easy to use on my mark II than on the M, is that normal? is there something you can do about it? this is my (and I think, all filmmaker's) first concern about the M.
2 SHUTTERBUG
in my opinion, not a priority. if you shoot video (and this is what ML is all about, isn't it?) you couldn't care less about this. M mount lenses have unpractical focus rings and are not so interesting for video, (especially the 18-55, not fast enough and without constant aperture, which makes it in real use an f5.6 lens...).
I personally shoot with my old nikon AIS lenses, which found new life after a ten years' sleep in a box. EOS M, EF adapter, nikon/canon ring and a set of old manual lenses which I modify so that I have a clickless aperture ring. a handle, a viewfinder and you have a digital bolex on a shoestring.
3 RAW !!!
well, I understand the technical interest of the thing, but let's look at the facts: if you shoot raw, your workflow is time-consuming, cumbersome, labour-intensive and then extremely expensive. if you have this kind of budget, you will not shoot with an EOS M.
the real game-changer would be PRORES, but I guess that is not possible, is it?
here'a link to a few pictures of the camera in my bolex-like setting, without any audio gear attached
http://www.enricobartolucci.fr/ESPACE+CLIENTS/MISC/eos+m
::)
Quote from: enricobartolucci on October 16, 2013, 11:57:43 AM
1 FOCUS PEAKING
it works, it is usable, but I find it much more effective and easy to use on my mark II than on the M, is that normal? is there something you can do about it? this is my (and I think, all filmmaker's) first concern about the M.
...
here'a link to a few pictures of the camera in my bolex-like setting, without any audio gear attached
http://www.enricobartolucci.fr/ESPACE+CLIENTS/MISC/eos+m
That is so cool!
I'd just like to note that there are two modes of peaking right now. Have you tried both? One uses the DIGIC processor (in the Display menu) and is easier on the CPU+battery and the other is in the Overlay menu.
Quote from: enricobartolucci on October 16, 2013, 11:57:43 AM
1 FOCUS PEAKING
it works, it is usable, but I find it much more effective and easy to use on my mark II than on the M, is that normal? is there something you can do about it? this is my (and I think, all filmmaker's) first concern about the M.
2 SHUTTERBUG
in my opinion, not a priority. if you shoot video (and this is what ML is all about, isn't it?) you couldn't care less about this. M mount lenses have unpractical focus rings and are not so interesting for video, (especially the 18-55, not fast enough and without constant aperture, which makes it in real use an f5.6 lens...).
I personally shoot with my old nikon AIS lenses, which found new life after a ten years' sleep in a box. EOS M, EF adapter, nikon/canon ring and a set of old manual lenses which I modify so that I have a clickless aperture ring. a handle, a viewfinder and you have a digital bolex on a shoestring.
3 RAW !!!
well, I understand the technical interest of the thing, but let's look at the facts: if you shoot raw, your workflow is time-consuming, cumbersome, labour-intensive and then extremely expensive. if you have this kind of budget, you will not shoot with an EOS M.
the real game-changer would be PRORES, but I guess that is not possible, is it?
Actualy I don´t agree with point 1+2.
I´m using the M for professional video work too and I´m using the 18-55 more often than any other lens with the M. It depens on what you film under what light conditions.
Because the M is so small its perfect for putting it anywhere as the second cam like many people do with a gopro for example. Or let´s say if you do an interview and you need more choices for editing. Place the cam beside, zoom in until the picture fits and be ready for action in a few seconds.
Also if you have to be fast and flexible while filming on the go. It´s very usefull to use the 18-55 under those conditions because you don´t have a fisheye effekt (gopro in example 1), its small, light and doesn´t look professional which helpes some times with getting pictures you won´t get with big cams. Its because people change their behavior if they feel beeing filmed by professionals.
18-55 combined with the crop mode gives you a big range and makes it possible too to place yourself somewere in a corner and still make close ups without beeing noticed - perfect for documentary use. And so on ...
To say it short - there are tons of situations were the 18-55 could be a good choice to use - if there is no shutter bug!
For me there is nothing wrong with the focus peaking. I use it all the time and it works perfect for me (the overlay one) together with zebra in any situation. If I do "real" filming like image films (with other lenses than the 18-55 or also other cams) or other work as mentioned before.
So, I´m pleased with it.
Quote from: funkysound on October 16, 2013, 02:41:28 PM
Actualy I don´t agree with point 1+2.
I´m using the M for professional video work too and I´m using the 18-55 more often than any other lens with the M. It depens on what you film under what light conditions.
Because the M is so small its perfect for putting it anywhere as the second cam like many people do with a gopro for example. Or let´s say if you do an interview and you need more choices for editing. Place the cam beside, zoom in until the picture fits and be ready for action in a few seconds.
Also if you have to be fast and flexible while filming on the go. It´s very usefull to use the 18-55 under those conditions because you don´t have a fisheye effekt (gopro in example 1), its small, light and doesn´t look professional which helpes some times with getting pictures you won´t get with big cams. Its because people change their behavior if they feel beeing filmed by professionals.
18-55 combined with the crop mode gives you a big range and makes it possible too to place yourself somewere in a corner and still make close ups without beeing noticed - perfect for documentary use. And so on ...
To say it short - there are tons of situations were the 18-55 could be a good choice to use - if there is no shutter bug!
For me there is nothing wrong with the focus peaking. I use it all the time and it works perfect for me (the overlay one) together with zebra in any situation. If I do "real" filming like image films (with other lenses than the 18-55 or also other cams) or other work as mentioned before.
So, I´m pleased with it.
Yes, focus peaking works, but it works better on the mark II, even though the screen is bigger and better on the M. I often find myself guessing about the focus with the M, but maybe it's just me...
concerning the 18-55, there's no point in starting a thread about lenses; of course the shutterbug is an issue, I'm just saying that as far as video work is concerned, the shutterbug isn't really the most appalling problem.
Quote from: funkysound on October 16, 2013, 02:41:28 PM
Actualy I don´t agree with point 1+2.
I´m using the M for professional video work too and I´m using the 18-55 more often than any other lens with the M. It depens on what you film under what light conditions.
Because the M is so small its perfect for putting it anywhere as the second cam like many people do with a gopro for example. Or let´s say if you do an interview and you need more choices for editing. Place the cam beside, zoom in until the picture fits and be ready for action in a few seconds.
Also if you have to be fast and flexible while filming on the go. It´s very usefull to use the 18-55 under those conditions because you don´t have a fisheye effekt (gopro in example 1), its small, light and doesn´t look professional which helpes some times with getting pictures you won´t get with big cams. Its because people change their behavior if they feel beeing filmed by professionals.
18-55 combined with the crop mode gives you a big range and makes it possible too to place yourself somewere in a corner and still make close ups without beeing noticed - perfect for documentary use. And so on ...
To say it short - there are tons of situations were the 18-55 could be a good choice to use - if there is no shutter bug!
For me there is nothing wrong with the focus peaking. I use it all the time and it works perfect for me (the overlay one) together with zebra in any situation. If I do "real" filming like image films (with other lenses than the 18-55 or also other cams) or other work as mentioned before.
So, I´m pleased with it.
ditto, I don't agree with anything he said. I am a professional and when I shoot video, I also shoot pics. If nothing is moving in a shot, then shoot a pic. That way you get a huge high rez, raw pic you can pan and zoom in on with no loss in quality for an HD 1080p project. Such as an outside of a building or a sign on a building for establishing shots. And B roll shots.
Gary
do u guys use raw or do you adjust the bitrate?
Quote from: jerrykil on October 16, 2013, 04:18:07 PM
do u guys use raw or do you adjust the bitrate?
No I didn´t use both of them till now. I never really tried because there was no time - so this may change in the future. But I guess its too time consuming for use in daily business with the M.
I would prefere the 5d mark 3 for raw video. But still it´s good to have these options on the M too because you never know whats happening and most people do not have a 5d.
maxotics and mac users,
I've made a couple scripts
1: http://tl.bot-fly.com/misc/kit_hdrvideo.zip
This one converts HDR videos to avi's with ffmpeg and enfuse on mac os! you shouldn't need anything but this zip and a bunch of alternating ISO HDR clips. Everything runs in parallel, including enfuse, so this is pretty useful
2: http://tl.bot-fly.com/misc/kit_cr2hdr.zip
This one just includes the latest and greatest cr2hdr with dcraw and exiftool. I also threw in a script that allows you to drag multiple files into the terminal window to convert them from dual_iso to those purdy 14bit DNG files.
If you like these let me know. I could work on a raw movie script next...
Thanks jerrykil
Any chance for windows version?
Btw, @1% this is more of a feature request but it's specific to the EOS-M, so I'll just put it here, I guess: Is it possible to have full time manual for EF-M lenses on the eos-m? By default, you can only manually focus EF-M lenses if the camera is set to manual focus, or that other option when AF fails and you keep pushing half shutter and focus the lens. So is it possible to have it set so that every time you just grab the focusing ring, it overrides the setting and just manual focus the lens?
Quote from: feureau on October 17, 2013, 06:39:53 PM
Any chance for windows version?
do you have cr2hdr.exe?
There is also an AF+MF option, assuming this is for FTM lenses.
FTM in auto is broken in ML too, zoom on focus ring is disabled when in AF, it used to not be... guess nobody has FTM?
Thanks Jerykil! I'm Windows, but I put your links in my Shooter's guide. Anything else you think I should put there, please let me know. Still under construction...
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82944#msg82944
Please Jerrykill, can you make a Windows version, i can't afford a Mac.
Quote from: Escaperoute on October 18, 2013, 07:36:12 AM
Please Jerrykill, can you make a Windows version, i can't afford a Mac.
sure, but it'll take me a while! i was thinking of implementing a GUI via platypus.app for mac, is there an alternative for windows to make an easy GUI for a script?
Quote from: jerrykil on October 17, 2013, 09:24:52 PM
do you have cr2hdr.exe?
yeah. You can get a copy from the official thread.
Quote from: 1% on October 17, 2013, 11:12:32 PM
There is also an AF+MF option, assuming this is for FTM lenses.
FTM in auto is broken in ML too, zoom on focus ring is disabled when in AF, it used to not be... guess nobody has FTM?
The AF+MF option only allows MF only when AF has failed. Otherwise, every time you press half shutter, it will AF. Maybe add an option to disable AF when pressing half-shutter and assigning AF to some other button for back button AF? (trash button or something)
Hi to all !
I've received my analog video out cable...
I've managed to plug it keeping the video monitoring on the camera but the sounds seems not to go out... ?
Did I missed something ? Is the function working ?
I'm on [EOSM]FullbackADTGui
Now the intervalometer seems to work for me !
I don't have so much time to spend those times on magic lantern but the 2 lasts times I used my "M" I got the "warming or out of memory" canon warning that causes the stop of the recording...Last time was good !
It seems that without module unload and video hacks off it is better ... I'm not sure it is really the cause.
As I'm on a 95mb UHS I Sandisk where do you think it is coming from ?
THX !
.V
Quote from: jerrykil on October 16, 2013, 08:10:24 PM
maxotics and mac users,
I've made a couple scripts
1: http://tl.bot-fly.com/misc/kit_hdrvideo.zip
This one converts HDR videos to avi's with ffmpeg and enfuse on mac os! you shouldn't need anything but this zip and a bunch of alternating ISO HDR clips. Everything runs in parallel, including enfuse, so this is pretty useful
If you like these let me know. I could work on a raw movie script next...
Hi jerrykil - I just tried it and it works great!
In germany we use PAL 25fps and I realized that the video comes out with around 30 fps NTSC. Is there an easy way for you to make a PAL version?
HI all!
My EOS M 2.0.2 just arrived today. Anyway, I have to go shooting at a conert in view hours and would like to use the eos m as a static second cam.
Was reading this thread - but did not really got the info I needed. What is the best build for now, lets say the most stable? I am also very confused with two versions tragiclatern and magiclatern ? They have both versions for my eos m 2.0.2 . What is the difference... And is this install instruction still correct? =>
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg64830#msg64830
Thank you guys!
Andre
@enricobartolucci : nice setup of you cam. What viewfinder and handle did you use?
Quote from: funkysound on October 18, 2013, 09:44:13 AM
Hi jerrykil - I just tried it and it works great!
In germany we use PAL 25fps and I realized that the video comes out with around 30 fps NTSC. Is there an easy way for you to make a PAL version?
sure thing! EDIT: i just tried audio and HDR. it failed after several frames, have you had any luck on getting audio+hdr on the nightlies?
Quote from: blablabla32 on October 18, 2013, 03:46:34 PM
HI all!
My EOS M 2.0.2 just arrived today. Anyway, I have to go shooting at a conert in view hours and would like to use the eos m as a static second cam.
Was reading this thread - but did not really got the info I needed. What is the best build for now, lets say the most stable? I am also very confused with two versions tragiclatern and magiclatern ? They have both versions for my eos m 2.0.2 .
EOS M is being developed under the tragiclantern fork. i'm partially responsible for that confusion.
Quote from: blablabla32 on October 18, 2013, 03:46:34 PM
What is the difference... And is this install instruction still correct? =>
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg64830#msg64830
These instructions are outdated. Check this out: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82945#msg82945
If you are planning on recording raw, then 1) it won't record audio and 2) you need to read maxotics guide in the aforementioned link. If you don't care about raw, then i find that most builds i've tried will record just fine at a 3.00x bit rate H264 on 45+mb/s card
edit: remember to format exfat or it will stop at 4gb (correct me if i'm wrong)
Quote from: vprocessing on October 18, 2013, 09:19:21 AM
Hi to all !
I've received my analog video out cable...
I've managed to plug it keeping the video monitoring on the camera but the sounds seems not to go out... ?
Hi vprocessing - how do you manage to keep the monitoring on the cam with the cable pluged in?
HDR video w/ audio is failing for me:
http://tl.bot-fly.com/logs/hdrvideo_and_audio_fail.log
:(
EDIT: now its working again
/frustration
Quote from: jerrykil on October 18, 2013, 04:09:17 PM
sure thing! EDIT: i just tried audio and HDR. it failed after several frames, have you had any luck on getting audio+hdr on the nightlies?
Now when you mentioned it I realized that audio is NOT happening in the processed video (there is only a single MP3 in the folder). I was filming a more or less silent test scene and didn´t really care about audio - just watching the HDR result.
Quote from: funkysound on October 18, 2013, 04:57:42 PM
Now when you mentioned it I realized that audio is NOT happening in the processed video (there is only a single MP3 in the folder). I was filming a more or less silent test scene and didn´t really care about audio - just watching the HDR result.
I'm not sure what you mean. I just updated the script, so grab it again: http://tl.bot-fly.com/misc/kit_hdrvideo_v.02.zip
it should now figure out whether files have audio and detect original framerate, whatever it may be, then act appropriately. let me know if this helps.
ps thanks for testing!
Quote from: jerrykil on October 18, 2013, 05:50:03 PM
I'm not sure what you mean. I just updated the script, so grab it again: http://tl.bot-fly.com/misc/kit_hdrvideo_v.02.zip
it should now figure out whether files have audio and detect original framerate, whatever it may be, then act appropriately. let me know if this helps.
ps thanks for testing!
Just tried the new one. I did throw my test HDR MOV in the folder an started - but it just sais "There are no *.MOV files in ...
I tried the old one again with the same file and he does find the film.
Update: I renamed the folder from "kit_hdrvideo 2" to "kit_hdrvideo2" and it finds the film ... will start now ...
Quote from: funkysound on October 18, 2013, 06:11:58 PM
Just tried the new one. I did throw my test HDR MOV in the folder an started - but it just sais "There are no *.MOV files in ...
I tried the old one again with the same file and he does find the film.
Update: I renamed the folder from "kit_hdrvideo 2" to "kit_hdrvideo2" and it finds the film ... will start now ...
ah! thats stupid of me! ok i'll fix it
Quote from: jerrykil on October 18, 2013, 06:16:24 PM
ah! thats stupid of me! ok i'll fix it
Its the same - no sound in the converted film but a seperate mp3 with it in the folder.
An idea: If it works with you ... could it make a difference that you may act with NTSC films and me with PAL?
I think its quicktime, can you try VLC? check your PM's, i don't wanna flood this forum with our discussion. again thx for testing
I have read the whole thread and tried multiple times to get ML to work on my EOS M, but I am still unable to get it to work without having to reinstall ML each time I turn on the camera...what am I doing wrong?
I use ML on both my T3i and T2i and LOVE IT, but need the EOS M to serve as a backup in case of an emergency on set. Thanks in advance.
Quote from: ZachQS on October 18, 2013, 10:28:17 PM
I have read the whole thread and tried multiple times to get ML to work on my EOS M, but I am still unable to get it to work without having to reinstall ML each time I turn on the camera...what am I doing wrong?
I use ML on both my T3i and T2i and LOVE IT, but need the EOS M to serve as a backup in case of an emergency on set. Thanks in advance.
sounds like you're using the "updater.fir" installer. the newer ones available from tl.bot-fly.com install a bootflag and should work better. read this:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82945#msg82945
get the latest build here: http://tl.bot-fly.com/tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Oct15.EOSM202.zip
Quote from: funkysound on October 18, 2013, 04:42:22 PM
Hi vprocessing - how do you manage to keep the monitoring on the cam with the cable pluged in?
@ funkysound : For me to keep LiveView when SD output is set :
Set Audio menu to OFF then set it to ON. it should say "headphone disconnected".
Then plug the Canon SD video OUT and the LiveView will say and "Headphone connected" should appear.
I'm using an OLD Philips 720 LCD TV
For me Audio DOES NOT go out ! In Any way :
NO Audio Output during standby Canon's way (so with LV disable on camera)
NO Audio Output during REC Canon's way
NO Audio Output during standby with ML headphones and LV on M
NO Audio Output during REC with ML headphones and LV on M
AUDIO Out on playback on TV Canon's way
AUDIO Out on playback on M with ML headphones activated and Canon SD AV cable plugged. So Video also plays on the LV.
Anyone has his audio OUT ?
For me it would be the nicest function on a M ! That's the main reason I've entered the ML ocean, hmmmm galaxy I shound even say ! :P
I'm very happy to have discovered all the other stuff I can so with it ! but FOR ME AUDIO and FOCUS PEAKING would be my two's If I had to choose !
Quote from: vprocessing on October 19, 2013, 11:55:17 AM
@ funkysound : For me to keep LiveView when SD output is set :
Set Audio menu to OFF then set it to ON. it should say "headphone disconnected".
Then plug the Canon SD video OUT and the LiveView will say and "Headphone connected" should appear.
I'm using an OLD Philips 720 LCD TV
For me Audio DOES NOT go out ! In Any way :
NO Audio Output during standby Canon's way (so with LV disable on camera)
NO Audio Output during REC Canon's way
NO Audio Output during standby with ML headphones and LV on M
NO Audio Output during REC with ML headphones and LV on M
AUDIO Out on playback on TV Canon's way
AUDIO Out on playback on M with ML headphones activated and Canon SD AV cable plugged. So Video also plays on the LV.
Anyone has his audio OUT ?
For me it would be the nicest function on a M ! That's the main reason I've entered the ML ocean, hmmmm galaxy I shound even say ! :P
I'm very happy to have discovered all the other stuff I can so with it ! but FOR ME AUDIO and FOCUS PEAKING would be my two's If I had to choose !
vprocessing , be careful talking about audio issues and requests. ;D
Oups ! I miss something about audio .....? ???!
A for forbidden subject !?
My camera is currently showing 85 degrees, but it does change often. Sometime it is 125 degrees or more. I wondered if these temps are too high. It also says C for centigrade, but I have to think that is wrong and maybe it needs to be fixed. Make it say F for Fahrenheit ??
Gary
with ML Oct 15th, the last posted version that works, it is not keeping the User defined picture styles loaded. We have to use the USB to load the profiles on the camera, then the camera won't shut off from the USB problem we have discussed. I have to pull the battery now to shut the camera off. Then when I reboot, all the user defined picture styles are gone. over and over and over.
Gary
i got to play with the dual_iso this weekend and i had a few comments/questions/bug reports.
when i set recovery iso to 6400 it stays at 3200 no matter what i do. my workaround has been to set ISO to 6400 and then set recovery ISO to 3200. I was wondering if this is a bug or if i'm doin something wrong. also, does reversing the order of the ISOs (ie making recovery ISO lower than the actual ISO) have any effect on how CR2HDR works later on?
why am i shooting at such high ISOs? i don't have a flash and i'm on an island with no moneys :(
I get this sort of weird texture pattern, too:
(http://tl.bot-fly.com/_images/dual_iso_texture.jpg)
any thoughts?
I get the same here. 3200-3200 after i set it to 3200-6400.
Quote from: gary2013 on October 20, 2013, 12:25:38 PM
with ML Oct 15th, the last posted version that works, it is not keeping the User defined picture styles loaded. We have to use the USB to load the profiles on the camera, then the camera won't shut off from the USB problem we have discussed. I have to pull the battery now to shut the camera off. Then when I reboot, all the user defined picture styles are gone. over and over and over.
Gary
I'm currently running tragic lantern Oct 15, my technicolor cinestyle profile still there after i reboot.
DnA
I think my problem comes and goes because of all the testing I am doing for the shutter bug and the USB cable routines. I have the styles loaded now and they seem to stay there. But that could change later. I am just not sure why or how yet it happens.
Gary
Quote from: jerrykil on October 20, 2013, 11:25:58 PM
i got to play with the dual_iso this weekend and i had a few comments/questions/bug reports.
when i set recovery iso to 6400 it stays at 3200 no matter what i do. my workaround has been to set ISO to 6400 and then set recovery ISO to 3200. I was wondering if this is a bug or if i'm doin something wrong. also, does reversing the order of the ISOs (ie making recovery ISO lower than the actual ISO) have any effect on how CR2HDR works later on?
why am i shooting at such high ISOs? i don't have a flash and i'm on an island with no moneys :(
I get this sort of weird texture pattern, too:
(http://tl.bot-fly.com/_images/dual_iso_texture.jpg)
any thoughts?
In the original discussion thread they mentioned that on canons the 'real' ISO only goes up to 3200. Other than that is just a 'boost'. Though it's been mentioned on the APS-C canons it's actually only up to 1600. I think that's about right since you can only get about +3 eVs extra with DualISO.
Btw, any monkeys on your island?
Quote from: feureau on October 21, 2013, 04:57:59 PM
In the original discussion thread they mentioned that on canons the 'real' ISO only goes up to 3200.
mah bad, do you have a link to it?
Quote from: feureau on October 21, 2013, 04:57:59 PM
Other than that is just a 'boost'. Though it's been mentioned on the APS-C canons it's actually only up to 1600. I think that's about right since you can only get about +3 eVs extra with DualISO.
is there a "best practice" kind of thing somewhere on the forums?
Quote from: feureau on October 21, 2013, 04:57:59 PM
Btw, any monkeys on your island?
just me, apparently :o
they also have some old world mona monkeys that came along with the slaves in the 18th century
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ae/Mona_Monkey_%28Cercopithecus_mona%29.jpg)
Source: Wiki, i didn't take this awesome shot
Look in DualIso source code and count how many ISOs are in EOSM.
Hi everybody,
today I started playing with the FPS override to make a 0.2 FPS time lapse video, one of the most useful functions of ML, imho.
As I planned to keep the camera working for a while, I decided to set up the energy saving too, but I couldn't keep the display always turned off; it kept turning on and off at every second of recorded video.
Is there a way to avoid that?
Thanks in advance
Stefano
Quote from: 1% on October 21, 2013, 07:04:45 PM
Look in DualIso source code and count how many ISOs are in EOSM.
/* 00 0803 40502516 */
/* 00 0827 40502538 */
/* 00 084B 4050255A */
/* 00 086F 4050257C */
/* 00 0893 4050259E */
/* 00 08B7 405025C0 */
thats 6
100,200,400,800,1600,3200
Boo
That's not too bad. The same with 5DIII, I suppose. ... can we force it to register higher isos? I heard the 'native' iso is only up to 3200 though (and 1600 on x00D class body)
I've been consistently getting an extra +3 EV according to cr2hdr, though it registers EOSM as having only 10 stops of DR. IIRC DXO measured 5DIII at, what 11.5?
5DII has a real 128K.. 6D has a real 6400, its only down hill from there. I could try forcing some extra ISO but dunno what that will do.
go ahead, blow up my camera. i've already got some in my piggy bank for eosm2 :P
Probably wouldn't blow up, just wouldn't have any effect.
Quote from: blablabla32 on October 18, 2013, 03:46:34 PM
HI all!
My EOS M 2.0.2 just arrived today. Anyway, I have to go shooting at a conert in view hours and would like to use the eos m as a static second cam.
Was reading this thread - but did not really got the info I needed. What is the best build for now, lets say the most stable? I am also very confused with two versions tragiclatern and magiclatern ? They have both versions for my eos m 2.0.2 . What is the difference... And is this install instruction still correct? =>
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3648.msg64830#msg64830
Thank you guys!
Andre
@enricobartolucci : nice setup of you cam. What viewfinder and handle did you use?
@blablabla32 : the hand grip is an old one I had at home with a 1/4 thread; these are very easy to find on ebay, the one I have is very simple but nice since it has a thread on the bottom too, so you can screw a small tripod as you can see on the picture. but you can go for some fancier stuff like this one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HASSELBLAD-LEFT-HANDED-GRIP-/171152037683?pt=US_Camera_Straps_Hand_Grips&hash=item27d974d733
the viewfinder is a VERY cheap item you find on ebay - the only available viewfinder for the M as for now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-8x-Viewfinder-3-LCD-V6-Extender-Magnifier-for-Canon-EOS-M-Mirrorless-US695-/221302596852?pt=US_Viewfinders_Eyecups&hash=item3386a9a4f4
it costs like 15 dollars and it is surprisingly well effective - well, for the price of course, but I am not disappointed, it's not a waste of money.
I am looking for a better one, though, and it looks like the best viable option should be the carryspeed VF3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQLM2mL9PPE
they just updated it to the VF4,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8ifuZK2o-U
which seems to be about the same but more expensive, so the 3 might be an intersting deal right now. I haven't seen it mounted on the M, so there is a possibility that it won't fit, but it really seems like it should fit perfectly - and the interesting thing is that you'll have access to the touchscreen without unmounting the viewfinder.
voilà, that's it ; if you're interested I can make a post about the audio gear, I've been making quite a lot of experimenting to find a system well suited for my needs and I'd be happy to share my experience with the community of M users - and of course, our heroic developers !
Quote from: 1% on October 22, 2013, 12:27:26 AM
5DII has a real 128K.. 6D has a real 6400, its only down hill from there. I could try forcing some extra ISO but dunno what that will do.
Do you know how high the 7D goes?
Quote from: 1% on October 22, 2013, 01:06:22 AM
Probably wouldn't blow up, just wouldn't have any effect.
Can't hurt to try. :3
7D goes to ISO 3200. 5DII + 50D are only 1600.
Oct 23 version on bot fly does not have the modules loaded in the ML folder.
Gary
is there some way in post production where i can see what picture style was used when I shot raw footage? The raw file or the extracted dng seq? how about the same for normal H.264 footage.
Gary
"Picture Style" is a human-friendly name for various compression settings. In RAW, there is no compression, it is straight from the sensor; therefore, those settings don't do anything.
Quote from: maxotics on October 24, 2013, 03:00:10 PM
"Picture Style" is a human-friendly name for various compression settings. In RAW, there is no compression, it is straight from the sensor; therefore, those settings don't do anything.
I am talking about the User Picture Styles we load thru USB to the camera. like Cinestyle, Flaat 10, Marvels and so on.
Also, all the Canon presets like Neutral, Faithful and the rest. I have a lot of tests I have made since getting this camera and I would like know now what Picture Style was used when I shot the footage.
Gary
@Gary. Seems reasonable :)
I would think it would be in Metadata. I have looked through them all and I do not see anything about Picture Style. I have seen lenses used as a category, along with all the usual things like frame rate, codec, etc. . I was wondering if ML can make something that allows us what info gets stored in metadata. We have the ability to select a pic style, so it does have some connection there. Can we get it to be stored in metadata like the other info? The pic file is also displayed at the top of the ML menu to the left of the temperature display.
Gary
If you open raw images in canons Digital Photo Professional click the image and press Ctrl + I (on a windows machine) it will show you all the details attached to the raw image. Including the Picture Style you had chosen when the image was taken. You can also see this if you have the tool window open. Under the RAW tab below white balance adjustment.
MLV records this for raw, for H264 there is movie log but haven't tested it.
Quote from: Malakai on October 24, 2013, 05:51:44 PM
If you open raw images in canons Digital Photo Professional click the image and press Ctrl + I (on a windows machine) it will show you all the details attached to the raw image. Including the Picture Style you had chosen when the image was taken. You can also see this if you have the tool window open. Under the RAW tab below white balance adjustment.
I cannot get it to work with raw video clips or the extricated DNG files. It does work with picture raw.
Gary
Quote from: 1% on October 24, 2013, 05:54:07 PM
MLV records this for raw, for H264 there is movie log but haven't tested it.
Can we record MLV on the M now? I think we had it for awhile and I remember a little discussion on it and you said it was no better for us to use. So I stopped looking at MLV.
Gary
Try it, it got a rewrite.
Chief problem with MLV (for me) is the lack of batch tools. I don't usually need the meta data but thats why you can choose either one.
Quote from: 1% on October 24, 2013, 07:33:57 PM
Try it, it got a rewrite.
Chief problem with MLV (for me) is the lack of batch tools. I don't usually need the meta data but thats why you can choose either one.
I understand. Thank you. I typically do not need/use metadata. Are there any benefits to MLV? Why is it being developed?
Gary
1%, your time is valuable. You can disregard my post since I can more easily spend some time in the forums and get my answers. I appreciate all the hard work you are doing for us.
gary, i fixed the Oct 23rd build, but i'm not sure if it includes the mlv module. if you can't get a hold of it, then i'll try to build it later tonight.
1%, batch tools, eh? thats something us laymen can contribute
Quote from: gary2013 on October 24, 2013, 07:47:53 PM
I understand. Thank you. I typically do not need/use metadata. Are there any benefits to MLV? Why is it being developed?
You can read about the MLV format here:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7122.0
Some background. When RAW is recorded, the devs get the camera to dump RAW frames to the memory card as soon as you hit record. At the end of the frames, they write a footer with width/height, frame size, and a small amount of other data.
As you know, when you take a photo the camera saves a lot of EXIF information with the file. Camera, f-stop, shutter, ISO, etc.
MLV does for RAW what EXIF does for photos. You can put a lot of information there that would work with post-processing workflow to make your life easier.
Jerry, thanx. I was going to look thru ur archives for some version that has mlv, like in sept, cus I only kept the last week's worth of versions. I would like to try and see what mlv might do. I am bored now since I don't have the shutter bug and I know the max I will get is 720p in raw with no audio. LOL I know I can get a higher rez in raw, but not 16:9. Does everyone feel, including 1%, that this will be the most this cam will ever do in raw? Is there some way even remotely possible it could 1920x1080p24 raw?
Max, thanx for the info. To me, easier would be going direct with a raw video to the timeline with a good first grade already done, one step, so I can edit and then maybe do some additional grading (using the raw 14 bit DR) only on what makes the final edit. :) I am sure that won't happen.........yet.
One thing that is hurting is the long time required to get all the raw video to been seen and then edit. A large amount of time can be wasted with PDR, extracting to dng and converting to tif just to edit and then not use a lot of it for the final edit. RED raw can now to straight to edit or even use one of the proxies the cameras records for an offline edit.and then relink to the full raw footage with the final edit determined. The point I am trying to make is that I am again wondering if it is worth all the trouble to shoot raw with the M. If the devs could figure out a way to go straight to proress or cineform (10 bit 4:2:2), that would be a hell of a lot better than the current H.264.
Gary
Hi Gary,
I have calculated the maximum the EOS-M can do, you can see it in my shooter's guide: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82948#msg82948 The short answer some pixel count equiv of 1280x720 24fps is max for camera.
Yes, I want the same thing, EOS-M RAW straight to high-color ProRes (or equiv). Unfortunately, PDR is in Java, so could never be a stand-alone Win app (which I ultimately want). It also has other problems I've gone on about ad nausea.
There are only two devs I know (there may be more, I just don't know them) who can do this work, Alex or g3gg0. As you know, they have their hands full so I don't want to bug them about doing it. So if I want it done soon, I have to try to do it myself. Fortunately, g3ggo did the MLV viewer in C#, so I can borrow a lot of those techniques. Even so, RAW image data is a crusher. Every other day I quite this project. I'm not sure if I'll ever reach competency. If I do, I'll ask for help. For now, I worry that if they helped I'd just waste their time because I wouldn't be able to complete it, for many reasons. Next to some encryption work I did, this is by far the hardest stuff I've tried to do. What most people probably don't realize is "hacking" the camera is the least of it (I see). There's a long list of technical hurdles between getting the image data and making it useful.
Because video data brings CPUs to their knees in the best of circumstances, they can't use many native components. They must pull all kinds of fancy C tricks.
Anyway, I'm slowly getting there. Being 52 is really slowing me down. C was never my language. (if I say what language the devs will never give me any cred).
I've been able to pull and parse footer data from the RAW file. I've been able to load a frame into the image control. I'm working on getting a non de-bayered image into a form I can interpolate the pixels with. Right now, I just get a black screen. If I can get over this last thing I should be able to pick up steam.
How could MLV be useful? Well, if I have a 1280x720 image I don't know if it's normal or cropped. So I'd manually have to pick the PDR method. With MLV the software could pick it based on the MLV tag. If ISO were in MLV, it could call Alex's chroma smoothing routines. All kinds of stuff downstream.
I'm still stuck on 2nd base.
EDIT: a beer and answering your post did it Gary. I'm very very close to get a non-bayered image to work with....
Quote from: maxotics on October 25, 2013, 01:35:23 AM
EDIT: a beer and answering your post did it Gary. I'm very very close to get a non-bayered image to work with....
LOL, ok, whatever works, pal. And 52 is nothing. I just turned 63, I am always told I look like I am 43 and think in my head I am still 23, but I feel like I am 83. :(
I know there is a hardware limit and I was hoping there were some software tricks to achieve more.
Gary
gary,
the Oct 24 is up now with the nightly binary of mlv_rec.mo
Quote from: jerrykil on October 25, 2013, 05:47:48 AM
gary,
the Oct 24 is up now with the nightly binary of mlv_rec.mo
Jerry, thank you. I have problems with this build and I hope 1% sees my post here. When I try mlv rec, after 40 frames, the screen goes black and it freezes the camera. I have to pull the battery to unfreeze and reboot. This action is repetitive. I did get normal rec raw to work and I see now we have a Little camera icons of yellow and green in the top right area.
Gary
Edit- I modified my post. My bad before. I did not scroll down further in the modules list and that was a a result of no rec raw module getting loaded.
I installed the lastest version. Dual ISO seems to work (although I don't understand how to change the ISOs it uses).
Focus Peaking and magic zoom do not show up despite enabling them in the menu though (even after resetting ML settings).
Nevermind, everything is back although I have no idea what I changed. Any news on the trap focus?
I feel like a beggar that has been given a free steak dinner and then has the gall, to ask for dessert. But I can't resist. I will say "Thank You! Thank You!" first at least.
One of the biggest challenges that I seem to have with shooting video is focusing. I'd like to be able to use a combination of autofocus and manual focus. The AF+MF works fine for stills, but not so much for video. I'd like to be able to use the half shutter to autofocus, but then rely on manual focus as my subject moves. You can't do that unless you're holding down on the half shutter for the entire shot. It seems ridiculous that Canon doesn't engage manual focus anytime I twist the focus ring on the lens. Is this a limitation that ML could easily overcome?
Bruce
Quote from: belmore on October 28, 2013, 12:07:45 AM
I feel like a beggar that has been given a free steak dinner and then has the gall, to ask for dessert. But I can't resist. I will say "Thank You! Thank You!" first at least.
One of the biggest challenges that I seem to have with shooting video is focusing. I'd like to be able to use a combination of autofocus and manual focus. The AF+MF works fine for stills, but not so much for video. I'd like to be able to use the half shutter to autofocus, but then rely on manual focus as my subject moves. You can't do that unless you're holding down on the half shutter for the entire shot. It seems ridiculous that Canon doesn't engage manual focus anytime I twist the focus ring on the lens. Is this a limitation that ML could easily overcome?
Bruce
I use Af+MF in movie mode. You have to make sure that the Canon Custom Function #5 is set to#1 or #3. And, obviously, you have to have the Canon Focus Mode set to AF+MF. And, disable Movie Servo AF in the Canon menus.
Gary
Excellent! Thanks Gary!
ML always turns off audio when we record raw. Wouldn't the polite thing to do is put the audio back on when going back to shoot h264? :)
Gary
I have followed the directions made my SD card bootable - it did try and install but got message about fonts missing - install all files then a crunched text white screen, turned off and ML never loaded. I assume because files are missing. I copied everything over so not sure what i am missing. Used Macboot to make sd card bootable. Searched site and can not find anything about fonts missing as error message. If this has been asked a hundred times I am sorry I did search an nothing is found.
Bryanna
Where did you get your build? There were some builds where the fonts.dat file was missing from the data folder.
I used the bottom link. It seemed to be the right
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82945#msg82945
get the latest build here: http://tl.bot-fly.com/tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Oct15.EOSM202.zip
I think audio only comes off if you have some H264 stuff on.
Quote from: Bryannagirl on October 30, 2013, 02:20:25 AM
I used the bottom link. It seemed to be the right
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82945#msg82945
get the latest build here: http://tl.bot-fly.com/tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Oct15.EOSM202.zip
I'm pretty sure I put it in that zip file I created. If you used a different build, unzip an earlier one, look for the fonts.dat in the data folder and just copy it in there. It should work then.
The file hasn't changed. There is just something in Jerrykil's build process that isn't picking it up.
Ok will look and see if file is there - thanks
Made a feature request in the feature request thread, but I thought I'd xpost it here http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9097.new#new
QuoteBackbutton focus: in photo mode, you can switch the camera to MF mode, and have the movie record button function to trigger autofocus (as in half-shutter).
This is for back button auto focusing
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml
Thanks
Quote from: Bryannagirl on October 30, 2013, 04:57:57 AM
Ok will look and see if file is there - thanks
bryannagirl,
i've started including the ML/data/FONTS.DAT file in the more recent builds:
http://tl.bot-fly.com/tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Oct29.EOSM202.zip
is from last night
you can get the latest nightlies here
http://tl.bot-fly.com
these builds may have all sorts of problems (ie nightlies of alpha development) so if your camera locks up, its best to pull out the battery to prevent overheating and stuff.
dot tune module is back and causing all the modules to not load and then show err. make dot tune not load and all the rest load properly.
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on November 01, 2013, 12:26:03 AM
dot tune module is back and causing all the modules to not load and then show err. make dot tune not load and all the rest load properly.
Gary
once in a while i have to do 'hg up -C' which always removes all my changes. the easiest way to get around this is to delete the .mo from your modules folder. i will remove it from the modules.platform.default file for the next build tho
Quote from: jerrykil on November 01, 2013, 02:09:18 AM
once in a while i have to do 'hg up -C' which always removes all my changes. the easiest way to get around this is to delete the .mo from your modules folder. i will remove it from the modules.platform.default file for the next build tho
thanx jerry. i was also posting this so others know what might be wrong if they get all err's on module loading.
it is good we have you here doing all of this with the updates. makes it easier for us to test out the new ones.
gary
thx gary ! 8)
AUDIO MONITORING NOT WORKING
Hi everyone, I am new to this forum and also to ML, so I hope I am neither off-topic nor raising old issues.
I have installed the software today and Audio Monitoring, which to me is an important feature, does NOT work.
The A/V cable works just fine on Play (audio+video), but not on Rec (video Only).
I have downloaded one of the latest builds, in which there IS an option for Audio Monitoring,
Any suggestions?
Thanks
p
does anyone know if someday it could possibly be where we get the look we want in the camera, shoot raw and then use just that raw file imported into a NLE timeline and edit away? No PDR, NO extraction, No converting, No Neat Video Noise filter needed. Can all those steps be done in the camera? I keep going back and forth on this raw shooting and as we all know, it's a big PIA and very time consuming just for 10 seconds of footage. Imagine a whole movie project. The workflow now is so long to get that nice video from raw. Just wondering. And hoping.
Gary
QuoteAny suggestions?
Wait till I write audio controls.
Quote from: gary2013 on November 01, 2013, 10:27:51 PM
does anyone know if someday it could possibly be where we get the look we want in the camera, shoot raw and then use just that raw file imported into a NLE timeline and edit away?
It's theoretically possible if the NLE manufacturers wanted to write parsers. Adobe just started support for CinemaDNG. However, I don't see it anytime soon.
I've been working very hard on the pink dot removal stuff (PC-based). I'm lucky in that g3gg0 has a C# project which has gotten me up and running, but not without a lot of effort. He's too busy to help me and A1ex is way, way up river ;)
My goal remains to be able to do exactly what you want (and I want). Take a RAW file from the camera and go straight to a high color depth codec like ProRes, Cineform RAW, DX_HD or XDcam.
Like you, I don't want to tell it anything about the camera or resolution. I just want the focus dots gone.
Anyway, am getting there. Depending on my work stuff, could be a few days, could be a few more weeks.
Quote from: maxotics on November 01, 2013, 11:36:59 PM
It's theoretically possible if the NLE manufacturers wanted to write parsers. Adobe just started support for CinemaDNG. However, I don't see it anytime soon.
I've been working very hard on the pink dot removal stuff (PC-based). I'm lucky in that g3gg0 has a C# project which has gotten me up and running, but not without a lot of effort. He's too busy to help me and A1ex is way, way up river ;)
My goal remains to be able to do exactly what you want (and I want). Take a RAW file from the camera and go straight to a high color depth codec like ProRes, Cineform RAW, DX_HD or XDcam.
Like you, I don't want to tell it anything about the camera or resolution. I just want the focus dots gone.
Anyway, am getting there. Depending on my work stuff, could be a few days, could be a few more weeks.
The adobe update yesterday was a big flop for DNG. They hyped it in Sept and now we all saw that they really did not give us what we expected. They are changing the DNG on import and we lose the ability to tweak and grade with the original raw 14 bit. After the adobe import, we cannot recover from highlights and shadows like we can with raw. Many of us on the COW forum complained and finally adobe said it was a continuing development and maybe later it will be what it should have been yesterday. They also took out the ACR in AE. A big bummer from Adobe after waiting impatiently for so long.
what i want is to edit the raw file like people do now with the RED raw files. I want to be able to color grade from the original 14 bit raw and not from an intermediate codec. The codec will bake in what is currently there and reduce the bits to 8 or 10. It will not give us the ability to do the best grading with the 14 bit raw. Maybe an edit session with intermediate but then relink the original raw after the edit for a final grade process. Your way is also good, too for those that want that workflow.
Keep up the good work, Max. I know it's not easy. also, big thanks to g3gg0.
Gary
edit- here is what the COW thread started out with and there is more.
Per Holmes PP 7.1 CinemaDNG forced to video levels?
by Per Holmes on Oct 31, 2013 at 6:11:17 pm
Hi,
I just got the new Premiere Pro 7.1, and excitedly started testing the CinemaDNG workflow, and I've hit a massive wall. It appears that Premiere Pro uses only part of the latitude of the RAW format, there's apparently no way to change it, and it's apparently suddenly impossible to access the full tonal range of RAW, even with Speedgrade or After Effects.
As an example, I have some footage with burnt out clouds. If I open a DNG image in Photoshop or After Effects, I can edit the exposure upon import, and bring back all the latitude on the clouds. That's the whole point of using RAW.
In Premiere Pro, CinemaDNG seems cropped to video levels, and I can't bring back any information in the highlights. I simply turn down blotchy over-exposed highlights.
If I take the sequence over into SpeedGrade, it's the same. I'm not able to pull any information out of the clouds, only reduce the brightness of already blotchy over-exposed clouds.
If this really is designed this way, what the heck is the point? The ONLY, I feel I can safely repeat, ONLY reason to shoot RAW is to be able to access the full tonal range of the image. But Premiere Pro seems to crop the latitude range to a video range.
But then there's no point in shooting CinemaDNG, and not simply shoot ProRes.
What am I getting wrong? Or what in the world are the designers thinking here, killing the one and the only reason anyone would use RAW in the first place?
Further, it appears that it's not even possible to "upgrade" to full CinemaDNG. If you've imported CinemaDNG in Premiere Pro, the manual says that the clip will be locked to that tonal range, even as you bring it over into SpeedGrade, which I've confirmed.
I can't figure it out. If this is true, CinemaDNG playback is an completely pointless non-feature.
What the heck?
Per
Quote from: gary2013 on November 02, 2013, 12:02:50 AM
What am I getting wrong? Or what in the world are the designers thinking here, killing the one and the only reason anyone would use RAW in the first place?
What the heck?
Adobe software, AFAIK, is a conglomeration of various pieces of software that often come from other companies and which are bolted on with little smart integration. Resolve is one company. I bet they sweat the details and make changes wherever they need in the code-base.
The problem facing Adobe, is you have to be able to apply a filter on the frame level. In fact, you should be able to change the "latitude" for any frame. That change would effect a lot of different routines that are applied against the video stream.
That will take time, and would definitely be hard on your NLE hardware. If you need that level of RAW to image conversion, you probably need to do it outside the NLE
Quote from: 1% on Yesterday at 10:58:11 PM
Quote
Wait till I write audio controls.
Wow, thanks 1%! I'll patiently wait then...
p
Ginger HDR with Wrapper. :)
I finally got around to installing ML on my M today (having already got it on a 600D).
Thanks to everyone concerned.
A questions.
The M won't boot if I put a card in without ML on it. The led just rapidly blinks until I remove the battery.
This is unlike my 600D which does, which seems a simple way of disabling ML - just use a card without ML on it.
Is this just the current state of the M version, or a new 'feature'?
Are you sure the card isn't bootable still after you used it for something else? Its supposed to work like 600D.
Oh, my dear!!
1%
THANKYOU.
Sorry dropping in so late. I was considering to go on and buy a M to shoot videos and timelapses, having smaller, smarter camera than a 600D.
I tried to follow all plus and minus, the thing I'm asking is.. Can the camera be tethered Even with DigiCamControl? Could you add an option to trigger video or shooting in the field through usb port??
thanx so much.
Stay away from the USB port, its some kind of mass storage mode, no LV and I think no controls. The best we're going to get out of it is headphone most likely.
Quote from: 1% on November 02, 2013, 06:04:21 PM
Are you sure the card isn't bootable still after you used it for something else? Its supposed to work like 600D.
Yes. That was it I think.
I had done a quick format but the camera still wouldn't start up.
So I did a full format and then it worked.
But this card had the 600D version of ML on it previously, so it seems a quick format wasn't getting rid of that.
I then tried another card that had been nowhere near ML, and that worked fine too.
Yea, any version you had would have had would need the card to be bootable and full format or eoscard again takes the flag off.
has anyone tried Ginger HDR workflow with raw DNG's?
Gary
ML version Nov 03, I tried to playback a 10 second raw file i just shot. 1280 x 720, p23.98, 16:9. It shows a black screen and says in white text "Opened 1 chunks" and then a couple seconds later it says further down the display "Failed to get a free buffer, exiting". Camera freezes, battery pull to reboot. It did the same thing three times in a row with new raw files being recorded. I had Full Time Color Preview turned on. I tried a fourth time with the Color Preview turned off and i got the same problems as before.
Gary
I am getting a Temperature of 105 - 125 C. I am guessing it is actually Fahrenheit?
I would really appreciate confirmation about this, and what is the highest safe temp?
I am running Oct 15th Tragic-Lantern and very problem free other than this.
I should mention that I also have the Black Silicone Case on the camera.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271286939215?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Doesn't seem to make any temp range difference whether the EOS-M is wearing the case or not. It does helps the grip in the hand a great deal. I also cut some short & thin vertical grooves into the silicone case, at the middle finger grip point. That made the grip even better; but then again I already had a V shaped wax carving tool that made that modification to the case rather easy.
Quote from: stephen_west_usa on November 06, 2013, 07:32:48 AM
I am getting a Temperature of 105 - 125 C. I am guessing it is actually Fahrenheit?
I would really appreciate confirmation about this, and what is the highest safe temp?
I am running Oct 15th Tragic-Lantern and very problem free other than this.
I should mention that I also have the Black Silicone Case on the camera.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271286939215?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Doesn't seem to make any temp range difference whether the EOS-M is wearing the case or not. It does helps the grip in the hand a great deal. I also cut some short & thin vertical grooves into the silicone case, at the middle finger grip point. That made the grip even better; but then again I already had a V shaped wax carving tool that made that modification to the case rather easy.
I asked this same temp question before and I never heard an answer from anyone. I would think the dev who put the temp display in ML would know the answer. These temp readings seem very high. Even when I first turn the camera on when it sat all night in a cool room in my home that was maybe 65 degrees, the camera shows an instant 98-110 degrees?? This readout needs calibrating in my opinion. And the correct display of C and F. It should maybe be around 70 in F and maybe 34 in C at the first turn on.
Gary
jerry, the nightly builds lately have been missing the raw rec module.
gary
UPDATE: I've been able to extend g3gg0's MLV viewer to fix the pink dot issue. Still a bunch of stuff to do. I'm going to extend it to do the whole process in one app, open EOS-M RAW file, fix focus dots, called raw2dng, call a dng2tiff (dcraw, ufraw, etc), then ffmbc to create a 444 ProRes version. However, that app will be calling a lot of command-line apps, like RAWanizer.
g3gg0 has just put in a temperature routine to improve coloring in the viewer. I queried him about debayering, so if that can be brought up to snuff, we should be able to take a RAW stream straight to ffmbc without writing all those dngs and tiffs. That's probably a way's, away.
The bottom line is we're all getting close to EOS-M RAW to ProRes444! Alex and 1% have also been very helpful.
Sounds good, Max. Thank you for all your work. Also, thank you to 1%, Alex and g3gg0.
Gary
Make sure you grab the amaze implementation from CR2hdr.... the problems I have with direct to video are the bad debayer... ie raw2gpcf is only good on some clips, others its full of edge problems.
I would like to see a user option for direct to video and a direct to DNG seq. Or whatever will give us the same ability to grade using the raw DR with 14 bits. Will a direct to tiff do that? I think I read in other forums that some apps, NLE/Color, are looking for 9 and 16 bit and thus do not accept the 14 bit DNG seq. If this is true and part of the problem, would converting to 16 bit be a solution?
Quote from: gary2013 on November 06, 2013, 05:57:52 PM
I would like to see a user option for direct to video and a direct to DNG seq. Or whatever will give us the same ability to grade using the raw DR with 14 bits. Will a direct to tiff do that? I think I read in other forums that some apps, NLE/Color, are looking for 9 and 16 bit and thus do not accept the 14 bit DNG seq. If this is true and part of the problem, would converting to 16 bit be a solution?
I agree, we want options to go whole hog, DNG to TIFF, or straight to ProRes444, or other workflows in between.
The reason I'm pushing straight to ProRes is I believe the ML would be more successful if people could quickly compare their H.264 with the ML RAW. The DNG workflow is complex and difficult to learn. Of course, if we didn't have the pink dot issue they could use RAWanizer straight to Cineform.
The devs are mostly interested in putting the latest cool features. I'm all for that, obviously it is how this all got started. But I feel ML RAW is now stable enough where someone needs to put int the time to make it a working solution for people who want to shoot, more than grade. If that isn't done, ML will remain a hack in the domain of the few and the MLV format more fantasy than reality.
QuoteOf course, if we didn't have the pink dot issue they could use RAWanizer straight to Cineform.
It wouldn't be that easy, sometimes the cineform is good enought to delete the .raw file, sometimes its really bad.
Proper debayer and dead pixel killing has to happen before encoding. Its no fun to have grown floating dead pixels when you pan around, taking them out AFTER on an encoded video doesn't seem like a good option and I don't think it will work for pro-res either.
I agree. ProRes would be great probably most of the time over h264 for sure. I worked with ProRes for many years in Final Cut Pro and also with the RED ONE camera that recorded raw and ProRes at the same time. There are some projects that only needed a small amount of color work and ProRes looked very good and a faster workflow for final delivery. For special effects and projects that required more grading, like a full length movie, raw would be better.
I would be very happy to see ProRes 444 10 bit with 2 channel audio out of this camera. I think most people would.
Gary
gary2013, thank you for your reply.
I had done a search of the forum and found nothing clearing up the temperature matter.
I will just push on and cross my fingers. I do have a liberal three year 3rd party warranty that might be of use down the road.
QuoteI would be very happy to see ProRes 444 10 bit with 2 channel audio out of this camera. I think most people would.
Won't happen, CPU is too slow. Its why there is a dedicated H264 encoder, its not done in software.
Audio could maybe be wav to SD on 5DIII at best.
QuoteI had done a search of the forum and found nothing clearing up the temperature matter.
The temp gauge is another chip its not always right, when the cam gives the heating warning is when you have to let it cool off.
Quote from: 1% on November 07, 2013, 04:56:40 AM
Won't happen, CPU is too slow. Its why there is a dedicated H264 encoder, its not done in software.
Audio could maybe be wav to SD on 5DIII at best.
The temp gauge is another chip its not always right, when the cam gives the heating warning is when you have to let it cool off.
LOL. That was going to be my next question about whether there was a hardware requirement that would make it not possible to do. Curious, has anyone ever gone inside the M or any Canon and ever done any hardware modding inside?
At what temp should we shut the M off? I have never found it to be hot. I have recorded non stop once to maybe 40 minutes on h264 as a test. I have been using it on and off the last hour a few times and I now have a red box showing 83 C.
"The temp gauge is another chip its not always right, when the cam gives the heating warning is when you have to let it cool off."
So is there a specific text warning message of overheating we should be looking for before being concerned and disregard the C temp? Mine has read as high as 125 C, which did seemed ridiculous.
I think if you take some CR2 there is a temp in there, the scale from photos has to match, maybe it doesn't. Temp was always ridiculous on EoSm. There should be a warning like a temp icon from canon on the screen if its really overheating.
Thanks 1%, ya it is the EOS-M I have. No sweat then.
Quote from: gary2013 on November 06, 2013, 03:53:32 PM
jerry, the nightly builds lately have been missing the raw rec module.
gary
gotcha, looks like this commit broke it: https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/commits/1b32a91a490b008643f0d53ed28dc1039ed53d44#chg-modules/lv_rec/raw2dng.c
probably a mac related thing...
Hey guys,
I've been following this thread since the beginning and I've been using the Tragic Lantern nightlies on http://tl.bot-fly.com/
As of this post, I'm using the Nov 07 Build. My interest in ML for the EOSM is almost exclusively for enabling time lapse creation. In particular, I'm interested in using the EOSM for day to night time lapse using the the "Flicker Free ETTR Timelapse Workflow" here: (http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5705.0). It's not written for the EOSM but in theory it should work the same.
Auto ETTR works OK for the most part on the EOSM but it hunts for the proper exposure a lot. Tweaking the minimum shutter speed or SNR limits will usually allow you to get it to hit the right exposure but it's usually by trial and error. It's also much slower to converge than Auto ETTR on my 6D (1%'s Oct 14 1.1.3 Build) Once the exposure converges, ETTR on the EOSM seems to do what it is supposed to do for non time lapse shooting (e.g. pressing the shutter button manually with your finger).
The Problem: The bigger issue comes up when I try to use Auto ETTR in combination with the ML intervalometer (Tested with 10-30 second intervals). Once the intervalometer is enabled, Auto ETTR no longer functions. The exposure will remain the same (at whatever it started with) throughout the time lapse sequence, regardless of any changes in light. For example, if Auto ETTR picks ISO 100, 1/125 @ f/16 for the first exposure in bright sunlight, it will remain at that exposure throughout sunset and into night. I've also tried testing this using a variable ND filter to simulate the ambient light change.
I have tested this problem extensively and on various builds and the behavior is always the same when the intervalometer is enabled. I've also tried the other Auto ETTR settings other than Always On such as Auto Snap and even Half S DblClck and manually double pressing the shutter half-way between intervals to try to get it to start ETTRing but it doesn't do anything; it's as if Auto ETTR is disabled.
Any thoughts?
If Auto ETTR worked with the intervalometer, the EOSM would be the ultimate compact timelapse machine.
Quoteprobably a mac related thing...
Its funny because I almost get the exact same error on windows using fseeko.. I think there is another one, iseek or something like that, will have to try it.
Ok so I have a few to choose from:
fseeko - didn't work on windows
fseeko64 -works on windows, linux but not mac?
_fseeki64 - works on windows, didn't try on linux yet.
lseek64 - worrks for windows, no clue on others
Think I fixed raw_rec or more precisely raw2dng.exe... still have to deal with MLV_Dump
heya 1%,
i had problems with preprocessing script. could you change it to
#if ($OS == Windows_NT)
#define fseeki _fseeki64
#else
#define fseeki fseeki
#endif
that seems to compile, but i haven't tested it out on the EOSM yet..
Is it compiling with the latest commits? And does fseeki work with large files on linux/etc?
linux: sorry, your highness, i don't have a VM set up to compile ATM. i'm sure someone else could confirm this quicker
../lv_rec/raw2dng.c:66:103: warning: format specifies type 'int' but the argument has type 'unsigned long' [-Wformat]
if (sizeof(lv_rec_file_footer_t) != 192) FAIL("sizeof(lv_rec_file_footer_t) = %d, should be 192", sizeof(lv_rec_file_footer_t));
~~ ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
%lu
../lv_rec/raw2dng.c:38:77: note: expanded from macro 'FAIL'
#define FAIL(fmt,...) { fprintf(stderr, "Error: "); fprintf(stderr, fmt, ## __VA_ARGS__); fprintf(stderr, "\n"); exit(1); }
^
../lv_rec/raw2dng.c:68:5: warning: implicit declaration of function '_fseeki64' is invalid in C99 [-Wimplicit-function-declaration]
_fseeki64(fi, -192, SEEK_END);
^
2 warnings generated.
[ GCC ] raw2dng
Undefined symbols for architecture i386:
"__fseeki64", referenced from:
_main in raw2dng.o
ld: symbol(s) not found for architecture i386
clang: error: linker command failed with exit code 1 (use -v to see invocation)
make: *** [raw2dng] Error 1
i'm still getting that. i think its not comprehending the preprocessing like you think it would. maybe llvm problem?
Yea, thats weird because it should be taking fseeko instead when the OS isn't winnt
Try now, then mlv_dump will be easy to fix if this works.
latest one works! thx 1%
i have some bad news. apart from the nightly site being moved to amsterdam and facing some downtime, just yesterday the GPU temperature sensor on my mac died. being out on the island, i can't get it fixed. it works for the time being, but i'm not sure how long it'll last. i get home on dec 17th, so i'll get the site back up then if my laptop doesn't survive :P i'm sure it will...or will it?
i had the shutterbug twice today, but it seems to be less frequent lately
If its just the sensor you can either underclock or run the fan at full speed... if the fan died then bigger problems :(
i'll PM ya, its really strange...never had something like this happen
Quote from: 1% on November 10, 2013, 11:42:00 PM
If its just the sensor you can either underclock or run the fan at full speed... if the fan died then bigger problems :(
1%, you have cameras on the brain. I think you meant CPU, not sensor ;)
Yea, the sensor is the failure part tho, if the GPU failed there would be no video. I've reflowed tons of boards with failed GPU, usually it comes back. Not once has a temp sensor failed.
Quote from: 1% on November 11, 2013, 01:30:44 AM
Yea, the sensor is the failure part tho, if the GPU failed there would be no video. I've reflowed tons of boards with failed GPU, usually it comes back. Not once has a temp sensor failed.
Do you mean with the putting the logic board in the oven method? I have an MBP with a dead logic board that I've been thinking to reflow.
1%, he wrote " just yesterday the GPU temperature sensor on my mac died" :) :) :) I'm thinking he meant mac as in Macbook Pro. EDIT: Oh, now I'm the dummy!!!! You meant the temperature sensor! I hope... ;)
QuoteDo you mean with the putting the logic board in the oven method? I have an MBP with a dead logic board that I've been thinking to reflow.
I've thought about trying that (maybe temp controlled toaster oven) or getting an IR station.... but right now I have the SMD rework hot air gun so I go with that. Also makes it easier to take mosfets and multi pinned chips off.
Quote from: 1% on November 11, 2013, 01:52:00 AM
I've thought about trying that (maybe temp controlled toaster oven) or getting an IR station.... but right now I have the SMD rework hot air gun so I go with that. Also makes it easier to take mosfets and multi pinned chips off.
>SMD rework hot air gun
This guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-Rework-Soldering-LCD-Digital-Station-Hot-Air-Gun-Solder-Iron-Welder-11-Tips-/370586123326 ?
That looks neat. So, you just blast hot hair all over the board? How long? Do you see the silvery thingy melt a bit? Do you know how hot it goes/the temperature you're melting the board at?
Yea, similar to that. I go for a certain amount of time over the chip... ie 360C for 15 minutes, its usually enough to melt the balls a bit and get the video/xbox/etc back.
When I attempt to get the latest version, it says "This Build Failed!". What's up with that?
Any messages, the 7D came out.
Quote from: AnotherDave on November 11, 2013, 07:24:13 PM
When I attempt to get the latest version, it says "This Build Failed!". What's up with that?
which build is that?
maxotics, yeah its the temp sensor on the GPU. i no longer get a read from it. dynamic switching seems to be working but all things video as significanlty slower. 1%, i've taken your advice and i'm trying to disable the "discrete" ie high power ATI chipset. lets see if this is better running solely off of the intel 3000 HD onboard chipset. wish me luck! if this doesn't work i'm gunna try winows 8.1...or should i try 7? i want to be able to turn off gpu acceleration all together, so maybe i want windows XP (dread)
sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/ATI* ~/DisabledKEXT/
makes no difference :( WTF?!
Quote from: jerrykil on November 11, 2013, 08:04:03 PM
which build is that?
Built on: 2013-10-18 13:53:06 -0400
What is the most stable build for RAW shooting (assuming there is no shutter bug, or it wouldn't be noticed by anyone shooting only video)?
Users, please post any bugs you experience, or features you believe necessary for a stable VIDEO build.
1%, your thoughts? For example, what features are on your to-do list? I can add a page to the shooter's build that has your "release" notes, so to speak. I'll maintain it for you, if you like.
I will be releasing a window PDR console app soon. I'd like to update my download files from maxotics. Does this make sense to everyone?
Quote from: AnotherDave on November 11, 2013, 08:43:35 PM
Built on: 2013-10-18 13:53:06 -0400
try a newer build: http://tl.bot-fly.com
site moves on Nov 19th so there is going to be about a week of downtime there. i'll have to use dropbox or something gross
Quote from: jerrykil on November 11, 2013, 11:24:15 PM
try a newer build: http://tl.bot-fly.com
site moves on Nov 19th so there is going to be about a week of downtime there. i'll have to use dropbox or something gross
Do you want $ contributions for hosting fees? What you're doing is fantastic and much needed!
Quote from: maxotics on November 11, 2013, 11:49:48 PM
Do you want $ contributions for hosting fees? What you're doing is fantastic and much needed!
Suuure, everyone wants money! LOL. Could you donate to ML in general, instead? I'll keep doing this cuz i'm a nerd, but building stuff and posting it online is tiny compared to reverse engineering and making the code. I'd hate to think 1% lives on pizza and hot pockets while I'm taking donations for compiling and posting his code.
Any news on HDR video app that work only for mac to windows
Quote1%, your thoughts? For example, what features are on your to-do list?
I always run the most recent compile. Audio is on my todo list and as well as finding out why ETTR breathes when there is a bright light + dual iso.
I should make a general release notes somewhere tho, with known issues and "things not to do".
Hello, I recently installed ML from a nightly build (version 2013Oct31) on my EOS M.
Since then I have uninstalled it because of a bug: The camera froze in a state with the orange led turned on if I took photo bursts (in continuous mode). This happened even if I took only 2 photos continuously.
After I forgot the camera in that state for a night, found it in the morning in the same state being warm to the touch and decided to uninstall the software to prevent damage to the camera. It seams to be working fine since then.
I wasn't very interested in raw video functionality but I liked the features it offered like intervalometer (for timelapse), zebras and zoom focus peaking, but that behavior made me decide it wasn't worth it.
Has anybody else encountered this problem? If so, is the problem fixed in another version? Anything else I should be aware of?
Quote from: creisti86 on November 12, 2013, 05:14:25 PM
After I forgot the camera in that state for a night, found it in the morning in the same state being warm to the touch and decided to uninstall the software to prevent damage to the camera. It seams to be working fine since then.
Duude(tte),
If your camera locks up, take out the battery!!! That's like the only thing you have to be careful with. I've never had a problem with continuous shooting mode, but i know gary has had some problems with dot_tune module. Although dot_tune isn't supported, it still gets built as a standard module and may have been included in your build. Generally, i keep modules that I don't use unloaded.
I apologize dot_tune keeps creeping back in....
EDIT: just checked http://tl.bot-fly.com/builds_2013.10/tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Oct31.EOSM202.zip and it doesn't have dot_tune, so i don't really know what is goin on with your orange LED. It's alpha software so reboot and try again :P
Dev ppls,
I'd really love to see an update addressing advanced bracketing.
pretty please?
Quote from: jerrykil on November 12, 2013, 09:46:16 PM
Duude(tte),
If your camera locks up, take out the battery!!! That's like the only thing you have to be careful with.
Yeah, I know, but actually I wasn't the one taking those last pictures. I should be more careful with this things...
So I guess it's just luck? I thought that asking here might save me some hours of research. I'll see what that dot_tune module is all about. Thanks for the info, (also, I'm a dude :) )
If anybody else experienced camera lock-up when shooting continuous and has any idea how to fix it, please let me know.
:(
small issue I noticed.
If you enable Movie Crop mode in movie, then when shooting a still image you get a warning message on the AF Focus Method screen saying
"AF method restricted when digital zoom is enabled" and you can't select Flexizone AF.
This persists even if you boot without ML using another card.
It only goes away when you go back to movie settings in ML and turn crop mode off.
Were could I get the new alpha versions for the EOS M now? I can´t reach the old sever any more.
Quote from: funkysound on November 19, 2013, 04:00:21 PM
Were could I get the new alpha versions for the EOS M now? I can´t reach the old sever any more.
I updated my starter set with a build from 11/09. You can find a link to it on this page. Jerykil warned the server might be down for a few weeks. Hopefully it'll come back.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82945#msg82945
Or
http://maxotics.com/software/downloading.aspx?file=EOSM_MLStarterSet.zip
Anybody know the status on the pink dot remover for RAW video? I just got an EOS-M for b-cam/personal shots and was excited to try RAW with the faster card reads than my t3i. I tried the PDR in maxotics package but it didn't seem to do anything. Would it be worth trying to edit the PDR eosm file or I could also try to code a simple pink dot remover/raw2dng python batch runner.
Quote from: maxotics on November 19, 2013, 09:00:28 PM
I updated my starter set with a build from 11/09. You can find a link to it on this page. Jerykil warned the server might be down for a few weeks. Hopefully it'll come back.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82945#msg82945
Or
http://maxotics.com/software/downloading.aspx?file=EOSM_MLStarterSet.zip
Hey guys,
the nightly site should come back up in a couple days. i apologize if i said a couple weeks earlier.
Also, got some good news. I was able to fix my laptop so i should be able to continue building nightlies from wherever i may be! I just opened it up, cleaned everything out, took out the logic board and reapplied the heatsink. if you're going to venture into a macbook pro internals, i would be careful since ifixit didn't include the somewhat hidden microphone connector in their guide. That was fun to figure out :\
Quote from: funkysound on November 19, 2013, 04:00:21 PM
Were could I get the new alpha versions for the EOS M now? I can´t reach the old sever any more.
You're not missing much, the dev's havent made any commits in a couple days. I'd love for better advanced bracketing w/ autofocus =D. i know you're reading this 1%
jerry
Quote from: jordancolburn on November 19, 2013, 09:18:01 PM
Anybody know the status on the pink dot remover for RAW video? I just got an EOS-M for b-cam/personal shots and was excited to try RAW with the faster card reads than my t3i. I tried the PDR in maxotics package but it didn't seem to do anything. Would it be worth trying to edit the PDR eosm file or I could also try to code a simple pink dot remover/raw2dng python batch runner.
The status of PDR is the first two devs are gone and it doesn't look like they're coming back. Rewind knows a bunch, but we (I) probably drove him away in aggravation (he doesn't use an EOS-M).
If you're shooting in crop mode, which I strongly suggest with the EOS-M, then the "PDR Rewind for EOS-M crop" should work, but pick "EOSM" in the drop-down (not crop mode). If you're not shooting crop mode, the "Original" build should work.
I developed my own pink dot remover. It does crop mode only now, but could do others. I open-sourced it and put it here. It wore me out. It could be vastly improved.
https://bitbucket.org/maxotics/focuspixelfixer
If you drag a RAW file onto it, it makes a copy, and then interpolate around the pixels using my own screwy logic ;)
I had a bitch, bitch, bitch of a time figuring out how the RAW files were encoded. So the source should save a you a lot of grief there if you want to use Python. That was actually my first choice, but I couldn't get Pillow installed. Unless you're super genius, you'll find little "simple" with this stuff.
Feel free to PM me with any questions, or ask them here.
where you at with it, Max? On hold, progressing, given up? I hope you succeed with it for the M so I can shoot raw easier and quit trying to sell my M.
Gary
Hi Gary. I bit the bullet and a BMPCC should come tomorrow. I don't see any leadership emerging here and no one wants to follow me ;) If I were Alex I wouldn't come back. At some point 1% will want a vacation too. Then we'll have two forks to nowhere. g3gg0 is happy to build a viewer for 3 people. I think there are only a few of us doing anything meaningful on the EOS-M. I'll try to continue with it, and can see getting more interested if the 11-22mm lens goes on sale here under $300. How about you?
These are the things I think need to happen for the camera to gain any traction.
1. Audio is turned back on if you go back to H.264
2. FPS is turned off if you go into photo mode
3. The 11-22mm lens is cheap OR
4. Someone figures out how to reduce the horrible moire in normal shooting mode.
5. The shutter bug is fixed.
I want to know how your new Pocket works out. What lens(s) did you get for the Pocket?
You have my email, so write me on it.
Quote from: maxotics on November 19, 2013, 11:45:05 PM
If you're shooting in crop mode, which I strongly suggest with the EOS-M, then the "PDR Rewind for EOS-M crop" should work, but pick "EOSM" in the drop-down (not crop mode). If you're not shooting crop mode, the "Original" build should work.
I developed my own pink dot remover. It does crop mode only now, but could do others. I open-sourced it and put it here. It wore me out. It could be vastly improved.
https://bitbucket.org/maxotics/focuspixelfixer
If you drag a RAW file onto it, it makes a copy, and then interpolate around the pixels using my own screwy logic ;)
I had a bitch, bitch, bitch of a time figuring out how the RAW files were encoded. So the source should save a you a lot of grief there if you want to use Python. That was actually my first choice, but I couldn't get Pillow installed. Unless you're super genius, you'll find little "simple" with this stuff.
Thanks, that should help, I was looking through the raw2dng source and playing with python trying to get to the point where I could play with algorithms to interpolate some pixels, this should help me a lot!
Are the focus pixel addresses in your code for crop mode?
PDR still has issues with blown out areas right? I thought I noticed that in a few of your example videos.
Quote from: maxotics on November 19, 2013, 09:00:28 PM
I updated my starter set with a build from 11/09. You can find a link to it on this page. Jerykil warned the server might be down for a few weeks. Hopefully it'll come back.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82945#msg82945
Or
http://maxotics.com/software/downloading.aspx?file=EOSM_MLStarterSet.zip
I had this build already but anyway - thanx maxotics
Quote from: maxotics on November 20, 2013, 06:23:25 AM
Hi Gary. I bit the bullet and a BMPCC should come tomorrow. I don't see any leadership emerging here and no one wants to follow me ;) If I were Alex I wouldn't come back. At some point 1% will want a vacation too. Then we'll have two forks to nowhere. g3gg0 is happy to build a viewer for 3 people. I think there are only a few of us doing anything meaningful on the EOS-M. I'll try to continue with it, and can see getting more interested if the 11-22mm lens goes on sale here under $300. How about you?
These are the things I think need to happen for the camera to gain any traction.
1. Audio is turned back on if you go back to H.264
2. FPS is turned off if you go into photo mode
3. The 11-22mm lens is cheap OR
4. Someone figures out how to reduce the horrible moire in normal shooting mode.
5. The shutter bug is fixed.
Actually it would help if the ML work on the EOS M does go on - I guess and also know that many canon user professionals already do use the M as the small camera choice beside the 5d Mark x. The M is always with us if we do a job or also for every day private use - my company does use it some times but never with raw till now.
Mainly by always using focus peak, zebra, video restart and some other features which are needed in different situations. So there is almost anything already existing we need for our daily work accept audio - but using ML here is dangerous for professional work because it´s an alpha version with existing bugs. At least I feel so even we never faced a real problem with the M + ML during work.
Can anyone compile the FocusPixelFixer to useable exe file, I really don't have the resources to compile.
Quote from: Escaperoute on November 21, 2013, 11:48:11 AM
Can anyone compile the FocusPixelFixer to useable exe file, I really don't have the resources to compile.
It's here in the bin folder. Also in my big zip of EOS-M files
https://bitbucket.org/maxotics/focuspixelfixer/src/258dc1804f67b314b94436b5ca02eaae157a0909/bin/Release/?at=master
I haven't pushed it because I'm taking a breather. Keep in mind it only does crop-mode at moment. If many people show an interest I'll get myself re-charged.
You drag a RAW file onto it and it will create a copy without the pink dots. It does not do anything to the original file.
Thanks for the reply, i've used it and i still have some pink dots in bottom of the frame, and some minor pink dots if i boost the shadows. Could you update the program for better pink dot removal...
Quote from: Escaperoute on November 22, 2013, 08:33:56 PM
Thanks for the reply, i've used it and i still have some pink dots in bottom of the frame, and some minor pink dots if i boost the shadows. Could you update the program for better pink dot removal...
Hi, Okay, fixed problems. I was shortening the loop to find all pixels that was missing last rows/cols. Also think I improved interpolation a bit. Also put up an exe in a zip file under downloads. Again, ONLY does 1280x720. Let me know what you find, thanks!
https://bitbucket.org/maxotics/focuspixelfixer/downloads
Hi Max,
I like this newer version being an exe. I tried it on one raw file from The M and it seems to work okay. It does hang at the start showing only a black screen with a blinking tiny white box at the top right. It took about 25 seconds before it started showing action. I almost gave up thinking it was not going to work. Can you make it so some text pops up saying "Processing now" or something similar so people know it's working and that we should be patient.
Gary
Thanks Gary! Good idea. That wait you're seeing is the program creating a copy of the RAW file to work with. Anyway, put a message in. I noticed that on some really large files the program dies. Don't know what causes it, if it will happen again, we'll have to see.
The program could definitely be speeded up by a master C# person. Not a priority for me at moment.
On the Black Magic Pocket Cinema Cam
The camera is a joy to use after coming from the buggy build of ML on the EOSm. You turn it on, hit iris, then focus, then shoot. ProRes goes straight into the NLE. the BMPCC is light and small. But of course, it is $1,000.
What I didn't expect is the moire and aliasing caused by the sharpness of the image. So the image needs to be softened a little bit.
The good news is that the 720p crop-mode image from the EOS-M is just as good to me, dynamic range wise, as the BMPCC. If you want a nice grainy 16mm film look, I don't think any cameras, even the black magics, are going to beat the EOS-M or t4i, etc. You may not believe me, but 720p is enough for me. It's the bugginess of ML, the post-processing stuff and lack of cheap wide-angle glass, that drove me to the BMPCC. EOS-M can still be a rock-star.
More good news is that after figuring out how to use batch mode in Photivo I put some normal focal length, moire filled video, through it using Amaze and 8-pass processing. It does a great job on the color distortions. If we can get the EOS-M to shoot in normal focal length without too much moire things will get VERY interesting I dare say :)
The EOS-M still have the same benefits (awesome photo mode, etc.) and drawbacks (ML bugs and post-processing headaches). The BMPCC hasn't made me want to give up on the EOS-M. Not by a long shot, as nice as it is.
Correction: since there's no ML for EOS M, there can't be any ML bugs ;)
Quote from: a1ex on November 23, 2013, 03:11:56 PM
Correction: since there's no ML for EOS M, there can't be any ML bugs ;)
Hi Alex, I'm sure you'd be the last one to argue with me on this. Most people don't know "official" from non-official ML. On another forum, a guy posted that the reason Canon doesn't go into this more, RAW for their DSLRs, is that their reputation would be tarnished by all the complaints. Even if Canon did it well, people would complain that the footage is "horrible and washed out", or "my Class 10 card doesn't work", or "I shot 20 5-minute clips, back-to-back, of my kids play and the camera melted apart" etc :)
In many posts in other threads I did my best to try to organize people around the need to agree on a common set of goals and how to spread out the time to do them. I'm glad to see you're back, if you are back, but now it looks like 1% has disappeared.
Anyway, my major point is the EOS-M can be a killer cameras. Better than the 5D3, because it is so small and versatile. But if people aren't going to rally behind your issues, which I agree are
very serious and important, then what hope is there for the EOS-M :(
Super quick question for anyone in the know; emailed Canon, and their reps had no idea. What ISO on the M is effectively the zero gain mark? On the Epic it's 800, but I can't find anything conclusive about Canon APS-C systems and the M. I'd like to start locking the gain at zero, and controlling exposure more with t-stop, lighting, and nd filters.
[edit] It seems the 7d has the best SNR and highest dynamic range at ISO 100, so I'll assume this as my answer because of the shared sensor between the two cameras?
Quote from: a1ex on November 23, 2013, 03:11:56 PM
Correction: since there's no ML for EOS M, there can't be any ML bugs ;)
This is unfortunate and depressing. Magic Lantern is the reason I am still using Canons. I've used early versions on my 60D and payed on the early release of ML 2.3, which is a wonderful piece of software. I am now using TL on my 6D and EOSM, both of which don't seem to have a proper ML release. And, based on experience, I don't trust TL. I will usually swap in an unmodified card if I know I need to depend on the footage. I wish I could code as I would be willing to help out on getting ML for both of these cameras. I would donate more money if I thought it would help. Even though I've been following these threads I am still not sure what happened here, but I would be extremely grateful if there was support for ML on these cameras.
Quote from: cpreston on November 25, 2013, 06:05:07 AM
Even though I've been following these threads I am still not sure what happened here, but I would be extremely grateful if there was support for ML on these cameras.
The two roots of the problem is too few developers and lack of users organizing themselves to agree on priorities (and too few users doing documentation, etc). If Alex could clone himself we'd have a stable version for the EOS-M. From what I can understand, 1% decided he could get more done for the EOS-M if he spend most of his time on his fork. If 1% could clone himself, it would be stable. Alex and 1% have had discussions on these issues elsewhere on the forum. No solution seems imminent.
Everyone, including myself, probably thinks the same thing before trying to get more done, "do I, can I, commit to the time it will take over the next 6 months to do X?" Ultimately, everyone seems to kick this can down the street.
I have put in oodles of time developing a C# program to interpolate around focus pixels for the EOS-M. The other developers were very responsive, but not helpful. Again, everyone has a list a mile long.
I got so frustrated with all this I bought a BMPCC. It's a joy not to deal with all the buggy issues on the EOS-M. However, it's a great sadness too because, as you know, the EOS-M is incredible and with a stable version of ML, would be the utility camera everyone would want. I feel I've done my part with the pixel software and shooter's guide. Jerrykil has been posting builds. Gary tests everything. And we have others...so drawing blank of names. But we only have "one" 1%. Alex and G3gg0, as much as they would like to help, are focused on other cameras/software.
People have tried to pay them, but I think they reason they're doing all they can. If they take the money they're just shifting their attention from one person's request to another. Who knows?
TL ver Nov 23, I shot a little bit of 720p24 raw and then I used the ML view function in the File Manager. The data is displayed along with the video, but at the top left it shows the date 25,10,2013 and today is 25,11,2013. I do have the camera set correctly for 25,11,2013??
Gary
Quote from: a1ex on November 23, 2013, 03:11:56 PM
Correction: since there's no ML for EOS M, there can't be any ML bugs ;)
I've been using the unsupported build for a while now, and the features and stability (raw video aside) seem to match up pretty well with my ML on other cameras I've used it on (t3i, 60d, etc.) . Raw video is obviously experimental across all platforms, but it seems to me that the core ML feature set functions pretty well across most cameras. a1ex's comment (and please correct me if I'm reading too much into this) makes it seem as if there's no real interest in tying it all together into a new official release even though eos m is featured on the ML home page.
Also, RAW is a neat experiment, but don't forget how many great documentaries and shorts have been made using canon's APS-C sensors and built in codecs. For most almost all applications, dealing with the built in codecs with not seriously detract from the quality of your final video. Do not let a lack of usable raw scare you making great videos at an awesome price on this tiny camera with all the video features of the t2i through 7d.
Quote from: jordancolburn on November 25, 2013, 09:50:45 PM
Do not let a lack of usable raw scare you making great videos at an awesome price on this tiny camera with all the video features of the t2i through 7d.
We like our RAW self-flaggelation ;) Anyway, the RAW is very usable. As you say, you just have to be careful and you're right, the H.264 is as good as any other camera I've tried.
Some REALLY GOOD NEWS EVERYONE, some guy, Joe Jungmann, have no idea who he is, emailed me a vastly improved source to the FocuxPixelFixer. Before it was slow. Now it screams!
You can get it here. Again, only works for 1280x720 for now.
https://bitbucket.org/maxotics/focuspixelfixer/downloads
yes, it is faster. can you add in some extras like creating a new folder using the name of the original raw file and then apply raw2dng or raw2dng_cs2x2_ahdlike_noise to extract the dng files in that new folder?
Gary
Quote from: maxotics on November 25, 2013, 10:36:21 PM
We like our RAW self-flaggelation ;) Anyway, the RAW is very usable. As you say, you just have to be careful and you're right, the H.264 is as good as any other camera I've tried.
Some REALLY GOOD NEWS EVERYONE, some guy, Joe Jungmann, have no idea who he is, emailed me a vastly improved source to the FocuxPixelFixer. Before it was slow. Now it screams!
You can get it here. Again, only works for 1280x720 for now.
https://bitbucket.org/maxotics/focuspixelfixer/downloads
awesome news, maxotics!
Quote from: maxotics on November 25, 2013, 10:36:21 PM
We like our RAW self-flaggelation ;) Anyway, the RAW is very usable. As you say, you just have to be careful and you're right, the H.264 is as good as any other camera I've tried.
Some REALLY GOOD NEWS EVERYONE, some guy, Joe Jungmann, have no idea who he is, emailed me a vastly improved source to the FocuxPixelFixer. Before it was slow. Now it screams!
You can get it here. Again, only works for 1280x720 for now.
https://bitbucket.org/maxotics/focuspixelfixer/downloads
Don't get me wrong, it's great fun, and I'll still keep trying out raw video every so often as tools improve, but right now, it just isn't workable enough for me yet. I tried the new pixel fixer, but it crashes halfway through, although oddly enough it seems like the top 1/3 and left 1/3 of the image are free from focus pixels, as if it got partway done before it crashed. My raw files were 1280, 16x9 aspect, so 1280x434 before the stretch, is this correct?
Quote from: jordancolburn on November 26, 2013, 02:18:48 PM
Don't get me wrong, it's great fun, and I'll still keep trying out raw video every so often as tools improve, but right now, it just isn't workable enough for me yet. I tried the new pixel fixer, but it crashes halfway through, although oddly enough it seems like the top 1/3 and left 1/3 of the image are free from focus pixels, as if it got partway done before it crashed. My raw files were 1280, 16x9 aspect, so 1280x434 before the stretch, is this correct?
Sorry jordancolburn, the PixelFixer will only work on 1280x720, what you get in crop mode at 16:9 (which will add a 4.5 crop to your focal length). I plan to make it work for 1280x434 at some point, but don't, because the aliasing/moire in that mode is pretty bad on that camera. Though I think that can be improved (long story). For the SD cards, I strongly advise shooting in crop mode. I get good results with my 10-20mm Sigma EF on adapter.
This is my favorite video with the EOS-M. It's low light, but I prefer the natural/grainy colors, looks like 16mm film to me, then what I get from H.264 (though I like that better in bright/event situations).
I agree, RAW isn't for everything. But when skin tones and shadow detail is important, RAW really delivers.
I should put a warning into the software that prevents it from running non 1280! Will do. Thanks for the tip.
QuoteSorry jordancolburn, the PixelFixer will only work on 1280x720, what you get in crop mode at 16:9 (which will add a 4.5 crop to your focal length). I plan to make it work for 1280x434 at some point, but don't, because the aliasing/moire in that mode is pretty bad on that camera. Though I think that can be improved (long story). For the SD cards, I strongly advise shooting in crop mode. I get good results with my 10-20mm Sigma EF on adapter.
Oh, so after enabling the 3x crop I will be able to select true 1280x720 without the squeeze in raw_rec? I just assumed crop mode meant the way it crops toward the center when recording raw video. I'll try it out soon.
Quote from: jordancolburn on November 26, 2013, 04:35:09 PM
Oh, so after enabling the 3x crop I will be able to select true 1280x720 without the squeeze in raw_rec? I just assumed crop mode meant the way it crops toward the center when recording raw video. I'll try it out soon.
Don't know if you've read my shooters guide: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82944#msg82944
The reason the vertical is 434 pixels tall is that the sensor has a 4:3 geometry, so it's not tall enough to provide the 720 columns by 1280 rows.
The benefit of crop mode is that is uses a block of CONTIGUOUS pixels in the center of the sensor. The bad part is the increased effective focal length.
Here is the relevant part from the Shooter's guide:
In full sensor mode, video is generally captured by scanning pixels from a 5,194 by 2,903 (16:9 aspect) of the sensor. The right way to do it, would be to down-sample all those pixels. But for electronic/engineering reasons, the EOS-M doesn't read and sample all the pixels, but reads them every other line (The 5D3 does, BTW). So it skips about 2.2 lines vertically and 7.2 pixels horizontally. This is complicated by the fact that the sensor pixels each read either a red, green or blue value. So two lines, if they don't have enough color information (because it's missing from the middle), will end up with a bright red or blue or green. When the pixels get de-bayered (the full colors calculated) chromatic aberrations occur. The bottom line is that all consumer cameras, in video mode, suffer from this "line-skipping" problem, to a greater or lesser degree.
In addition to chromatic aberrations, line skipping means that if you have a hard vertical or horizontal line in your image, and it falls between the samples lines, it appears as a jagged artifact. They form ugly "moire" patterns.
What software is used to de-bayer the image, also has a bearing on the quality. The distortions from line-skipping show up more in some software and less in others. I believe Davinci Resolve is the best at dealing with it, but I have no direct experience.
CROP MODE
In the 19:6 aspect ratio, the EOS-M, can create images from the center 1280 pixels long (wide) by 720 pixels high. The reason that crop-mode videos do not suffer from moire is it doesn't skip lines, or pixels. It uses the center-most 1280x720 pixels of the sensor. The drawback, is that it taking an image from a small part of sensor and enlarging it, so to speak, which creates a zoom, long focal-length; that is, if a lens is 20mm normally, by taking the a center part of the image it becomes 79mm.
Thanks for the info, I had read the guide and used crop mode w/ h.264 on the M and on my t3i, but I guess I just misunderstood crop mode in raw to mean the built in crop from using a smaller resolution and not actual crop mode. Looking forward to trying it out soon.
Quote from: jordancolburn on November 26, 2013, 08:22:12 PM
Thanks for the info, I had read the guide and used crop mode w/ h.264 on the M and on my t3i, but I guess I just misunderstood crop mode in raw to mean the built in crop from using a smaller resolution and not actual crop mode. Looking forward to trying it out soon.
Yes it is confusing. Crop mode was used in the beginning, with H.264, to boost your effective focal length. Cheap way to make a 150mm out of 50mm :) The image is so compressed in H.264 that you don't notice the line-skipping (very much). In RAW, however, if you blend away all the chromatic aberrations from line skipping you might as well just stick with H.264. With crop mode, however, you don't get the line skipping, though now the increase in focal lenght works against you when you want wide shots. Hope that further clarifies.
Once you shoot some RAW in 1280x720 crop (I suggest a tripod), you're gonna have a revelation!
I've been using crop mode from the start, with 22mm lens low light video is more than outstanding, i can get some very low light shots with 22mm lens at f/2 but the downside is no IS, but still after your pink dot remover program my life change completely, Now i can produce some really good shorts with my eos-m... Please keep up the good work
Quote from: Escaperoute on November 27, 2013, 08:22:42 PM
I've been using crop mode from the start, with 22mm lens low light video is more than outstanding, i can get some very low light shots with 22mm lens at f/2 but the downside is no IS, but still after your pink dot remover program my life change completely, Now i can produce some really good shorts with my eos-m... Please keep up the good work
i got around to applying a new build of cr2hdr to some old exceedingly noisy photos i took at night and the results are fabulous. thx to those workin on dual_iso. i think its a1ex and marsu. the update have been absolutely great
I'm using Build20131012 from max's starter set. I've noticed that when shooting raw video in crop mode, the crop boundary overlay is misaligned.
Has this been fixed in the latest builds? Am I doing something wrong?
EDIT: Solved my problem for now (I probably should upgrade.) Here's my solution, it's not pixel perfect but it's fairly accurate. Haven't tested it at different focal lenghts, I'm using 18mm. Save it to your /ML/cropmks/ folder to use.
https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/EosmCrop.bmp
EDIT2: Changed the pics to links.
Quote from: drchagas on November 28, 2013, 08:09:30 AM
I'm using Build20131012 from max's starter set. I've noticed that when shooting raw video in crop mode, the crop boundary overlay is misaligned.
EDIT: Solved my problem for now (I probably should upgrade.) Here's my solution, it's not pixel perfect but it's fairly accurate. Haven't tested it at different focal lenghts, I'm using 18mm. Save it to your /ML/cropmks/ folder to use.
drchagas, that looks very interesting. the 11/09/2013 build should be in my latest starter set. I haven't seen 1% around much lately, and don't believe the build has been changed much in a month, maybe Jerykill or 1% can weigh in here.
Joe has made even further improvements to the FocusPixelFixer. I need to incorporate it in some scripts, or an app, to allow one to process a RAW file straight into DNGS, TIFFs or Proress, etc.
About a post above, yes the 22mm in crop mode gives a great image, but lack of IS, when it's at an effective 90mm focal length, is a downer. I really wish Canon would start selling the 11-22mm STM lens in the U.S. at a reasonable price!
Quote from: maxotics on November 28, 2013, 02:30:18 PM
Joe has made even further improvements to the FocusPixelFixer. I need to incorporate it in some scripts, or an app, to allow one to process a RAW file straight into DNGS, TIFFs or Proress, etc.
And .mlv too? :3
Happy thanksgiving, US folk,
maxotics, looking at the commit log, there hasn't been much done as far as rawrec. there was a commit for the intervalometer and MLV things tho
I know g3gg0 has been putting tons of time into MLV. I haven't tried it on the EOS-M.
1. So is MLV stable on the EOS-M (I only tried it on my 50D)
2. What benefits does/can it give us?
Quote from: maxotics on November 28, 2013, 02:30:18 PMdrchagas, that looks very interesting. the 11/09/2013 build should be in my latest starter set. I haven't seen 1% around much lately, and don't believe the build has been changed much in a month, maybe Jerykill or 1% can weigh in here.
Cool, thanks for the reply, and thanks for your guide.
Quote from: maxotics on November 28, 2013, 06:28:28 PM
I know g3gg0 has been putting tons of time into MLV. I haven't tried it on the EOS-M.
1. So is MLV stable on the EOS-M (I only tried it on my 50D)
2. What benefits does/can it give us?
1- yes, for me it has.
2- i also want to know.
Gary
Really the only benefit is meta data and not having to batch exif the DNGs to have the camera name and uniquemodel.
QuoteI haven't seen 1% around much lately
On vacation so no major coding work. A1ex too.
Have a nice vacation 1%
Hi guys
Is ML fixed for EOS-m ver 2?
How to install ML?
Thanks and more power
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82955#msg82955
What is the purpose/reason for the ML menus to always shut off after a few seconds? Can someone please make it so it stays on as long as we want it to do so we can have the time to search through things for different settings. Or, at least make it an option in the ML preferences for users to choose whether it stays on or times out like it currently is doing.
Gary
EOS-M2 is official: http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/12/canon-eos-m2-gets-official/
No Dual Pixel CMOS AF.
Jerry,
FYI, your bot fly website does not work half the time, very slow to connect when it does, and very very slow downloads that take a long time for a simple 1.6 mb zip file. Today, the Dec 01 download shows up as an empty zip file.
The eos m 2 is out today, equipped with WIFI features. But we are still stuck with the ML alpha build here. So honestly, can we get the eye-fi card fix for the M or make the shooting features even more usable? Such as the magic room function and the not perfect live view auto room function? We have been waiting for them for a very long time.
QuoteThe eos m 2 is out today, equipped with WIFI features. But we are still stuck with the ML alpha build here.
So what? Nobody is forcing you to use ML, you are free to buy the EOS M2 ;)
You are also free to grab a C compiler and fix those things you are waiting for. Complaining will not help.
Gary,
the site is still having issues with the host. They are experiencing problems while switching to a different ISP. This is ok because the devs have been mostly vacationing. 1% has been merging some ML update and i saw raw_rec moved to single buffer, but other than a couple other fixes, not much has been done. If you'd like, i can post a nightly build to another host this afternoon.
Quote from: feureau on December 03, 2013, 06:03:47 PM
EOS-M2 is official: http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/12/canon-eos-m2-gets-official/
No Dual Pixel CMOS AF.
WTF, its not even coming to US. its the same exact camera with a couple tweaks. i gutta say i'm pretty disappointed. i still prefer EOS M1/2 to a sony simply because i can do more on my camera with ML.
Quote from: a1ex on December 03, 2013, 11:14:03 PM
So what? Nobody is forcing you to use ML, you are free to buy the EOS M2 ;)
You are also free to grab a C compiler and fix those things you are waiting for. Complaining will not help.
people complain but, from what i know, ML is still the most robust 3rd party firmware tweak out there. i've been having great results an a lot of fun with it. i'm not a pro, tho, just a hobby.
EDIT: my D-key has been sticky. Apologize about the typos. pls, no D-key jokes
EDIT2: I'm new to this file-sharing. This link should point to my latest build TL for EOSM
http://tinyurl.com/l7e2cry
Gary, if you're curious of what has been updated, check out https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/commits/all
Quote from: jerrykil on December 03, 2013, 11:26:06 PM
Gary,
the site is still having issues with the host. They are experiencing problems while switching to a different ISP. This is ok because the devs have been mostly vacationing. 1% has been merging some ML update and i saw raw_rec moved to single buffer, but other than a couple other fixes, not much has been done. If you'd like, i can post a nightly build to another host this afternoon.
Hi Jerry, if there is no major fixes for the M on the nightly, then I can wait until you get your website stuff working better. Can you keep an eye on the nighties and let us know here if you think it is something really worth trying out? I am mostly interested in hopefully seeing the headphone working, MLV progress, DNG extraction with PDR and raw shooting improvements.
I appreciate what you do here and all the devs that are making this all happen. ML is the reason I keep coming back to Canon. I keep thinking of jumping ship for the BMPCC, GH3 or the new Sony RX 10. But having ML makes the Canon stand out with usable features we all really like having available.
Gary
Would be cool to try one and see whats good with it, maybe they gave it more ram...
Curious. is the 6D doing the same raw recording as the 5dm3 using ML? 1920x1080 24fps raw continuous? And, does the 6D have headphone out from ML? I know the 5dm3 has it built in, but I see the 6D now selling for $1600 new on Amazon.
Lol, I wish.. only CF cameras can come close to 1080 resolutions... 6D has decent 720P so usable with a wide lens. Headphone works, M has a different audio chip that requires rewriting audio code. But shouldn't be too hard as the datasheet is available and I know how to send commands.
Quote from: gary2013 on December 04, 2013, 12:00:43 AM
Hi Jerry, if there is no major fixes for the M on the nightly, then I can wait until you get your website stuff working better. Can you keep an eye on the nighties and let us know here if you think it is something really worth trying out? I am mostly interested in hopefully seeing the headphone working, MLV progress, DNG extraction with PDR and raw shooting improvements.
I appreciate what you do here and all the devs that are making this all happen. ML is the reason I keep coming back to Canon. I keep thinking of jumping ship for the BMPCC, GH3 or the new Sony RX 10. But having ML makes the Canon stand out with usable features we all really like having available.
Gary
100% agree. had another fun night shooting friends with my M. Its rather hard for me to make a call on what is worth testing. As the camera is alpha status, I think everything is worth testing. I posted this latest build from last nights commits because it has taken raw_rec.mo from double to a single buffer. Someone needs to try that.
jerry
Quote from: jerrykil on December 04, 2013, 04:10:25 AM
100% agree. had another fun night shooting friends with my M. Its rather hard for me to make a call on what is worth testing. As the camera is alpha status, I think everything is worth testing. I posted this latest build from last nights commits because it has taken raw_rec.mo from double to a single buffer. Someone needs to try that.
jerry
I always download the latest everyday from bot fly and see if there is anything new and different and then just go through my normal daily usage with the M trying diff settings and things. I have the time and figure I can't lose a lot compared to screwing up a $3500 5dm3. :) Your site is still not working. Is there some other way we can get the dailies? Can you use some free up[load site and post there and give us a password that will always work then each day? Is Dec 03 available?
Quote from: 1% on December 04, 2013, 03:52:28 AM
Lol, I wish.. only CF cameras can come close to 1080 resolutions... 6D has decent 720P so usable with a wide lens. Headphone works, M has a different audio chip that requires rewriting audio code. But shouldn't be too hard as the datasheet is available and I know how to send commands.
I understand. I had a 6D surge go thru me today and then decided to not go that route after finding out info on it as well as your post.
Quote from: a1ex on December 03, 2013, 11:14:03 PM
So what? Nobody is forcing you to use ML, you are free to buy the EOS M2 ;)
You are also free to grab a C compiler and fix those things you are waiting for. Complaining will not help.
It's not complaining, it's a reasonable request. And the developer also committed to improve those features.
Yeah, sure, just click on your user name and then "show posts", then read the forum rules.
Quote from: gary2013 on December 02, 2013, 06:15:02 PM
What is the purpose/reason for the ML menus to always shut off after a few seconds? Can someone please make it so it stays on as long as we want it to do so we can have the time to search through things for different settings. Or, at least make it an option in the ML preferences for users to choose whether it stays on or times out like it currently is doing.
Gary
I'm also interested by this point. Is it possible to place on SD card a kind of parameter when installing ML to increase a little the 'menu timout' ?
Many thanks for all ML team !
The timeout is from Canon, not from ML.
Quote from: loicremy on December 04, 2013, 08:56:06 AM
Many thanks for all ML team !
I wouldn't call them a team. Little fault of theirs. Everyone wants different features, so each dev works on whichever feature they're also interested in. There are two forks of ML, as far as I can see. Until users take some responsibility for helping the devs work through what are, in the end, political issues, the EOS-M will remain an Alpha fork.
One dev wants the other dev to put his work into the main fork. Everyone agrees it's a good idea, but no one really takes a stand. That would create a lot of dull work for the second dev and would take away from new/fun feature dev. It's his time. In order for that to happen, if that should happen, users need to make sure it's somehow worth it for the devs to put time into drudgery work, or, as they say, fire up your compiler and do it yourself.
Quote from: maxotics on December 04, 2013, 02:56:36 PM
I wouldn't call them a team. Little fault of theirs. Everyone wants different features, so each dev works on whichever feature they're also interested in. There are two forks of ML, as far as I can see. Until users take some responsibility for helping the devs work through what are, in the end, political issues, the EOS-M will remain an Alpha fork.
One dev wants the other dev to put his work into the main fork. Everyone agrees it's a good idea, but no one really takes a stand. That would create a lot of dull work for the second dev and would take away from new/fun feature dev. It's his time. In order for that to happen, if that should happen, users need to make sure it's somehow worth it for the devs to put time into drudgery work, or, as they say, fire up your compiler and do it yourself.
Mhh, maybe, but still they do a great job!
It´s not an organized commercial company and there may be too less devs around which could solve every problem for every cam every day, week or month. I do understand that every dev likes to work on what he is interested in - they work on ML just because they like to do it.
OK, sure - I would love to have a more stable ML-EOS M version too as fast as possible but remember - its for free and so I/we can´t blame anybody.
But I still wonder that the EOS M doesn´t catch more interest. From my point of few it´s the second best and interesting Canon cam behind the 5d product line. Especialy if you already own different Canon lenses.
I´m looking forward for a real EOS-M2+ next year (not just this so called "new" M2 with just wifi and a little bit better AF - nice but that´s nearly nothing)
Quote from: funkysound on December 04, 2013, 04:06:28 PM
Mhh, maybe, but still they do a great job!
But I still wonder that the EOS M doesn´t catch more interest.
Sorry, didn't meant to diminish your sentiment! My 2-cents is the EOS-M doesn't catch more interest, and ML isn't as successful as it can be, because there is no stable build for it and similar cameras. The easier something is, the more people will use it. ML is very low on the easy-to-use curve.
Quote from: funkysound on December 04, 2013, 04:06:28 PM
...But I still wonder that the EOS M doesn´t catch more interest. From my point of few it´s the second best and interesting Canon cam behind the 5d product line. Especialy if you already own different Canon lenses.
I´m looking forward for a real EOS-M2+ next year (not just this so called "new" M2 with just wifi and a little bit better AF - nice but that´s nearly nothing)
it has an ASPC sensor, small, light weight, three nice EFM lenses and it only cost $300 with one kit lens. It can do 720p, 24fps, 16x9, raw continuous. And only costing $100 with $200 lens in a kit makes it stand out from all the other cameras. That should make this camera very desirable. And ML makes it this way thanks to the devs and testers here. I understand Max's statements, but I cannot change any of that but I believe that it all will work out.
you realize that when we merge it the bugs + shortcomings will be the same as ML fixes are pulled into my repo regularly and a lot of stuff is the same in both
Quote from: 1% on December 04, 2013, 10:19:39 PM
you realize that when we merge it the bugs + shortcomings will be the same as ML fixes are pulled into my repo regularly and a lot of stuff is the same in both
Absolutely, 1%! Not implying whatsoever that the bugs are your fault. I'm curious about the following. Would love some answers, perhaps can help others.
o. Assuming someone has basic C knowledge, how many hours would take them to learn enough ML to contribute fixes to any of these bugs. My guess would be 40+ hours.
o. How long would it take, I know hard for you to say, but some guess...
1. Make it so audio is turned back on when switching from RAW to H.264.
2. Turn custom FPS off when going from video to photo mode (to stop screen issues), and turn it back on when going back to RAW
Are there any other big issues, except for the shutter bug?
Thanks for your time 1%.
Quote from: 1% on December 04, 2013, 10:19:39 PM
you realize that when we merge it the bugs + shortcomings will be the same as ML fixes are pulled into my repo regularly and a lot of stuff is the same in both
I understand and I rather you do what is better for now. I have a question. I know and accept that because of hardware limits, we can best be at 720p24 raw continuous video. Is it possible somehow to squeeze audio recording in with that? 44.1k 16 bit stereo. Also, is it somehow possible that the video can go larger than the current 720p24 and stay at 6x9 from some new discovery later on? or 30fps?
Quote from: maxotics on December 04, 2013, 10:46:55 PM
Absolutely, 1%! Not implying whatsoever that the bugs are your fault. I'm curious about the following. Would love some answers, perhaps can help others.
o. Assuming someone has basic C knowledge, how many hours would take them to learn enough ML to contribute fixes to any of these bugs. My guess would be 40+ hours.
o. How long would it take, I know hard for you to say, but some guess...
1. Make it so audio is turned back on when switching from RAW to H.264.
2. Turn custom FPS off when going from video to photo mode (to stop screen issues), and turn it back on when going back to RAW
Are there any other big issues, except for the shutter bug?
Thanks for your time 1%.
its very hard to keep track of bugs in a forum setting. would it be super annoying to have people submit user bugs to https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/issues?status=new&status=open ?
Thanks Jerrykil. I posted those two issues there.
intervalometer works now. i got 200+ shots off in MF on an almost full charge. Now i just have to learn to meter it correctly. sunrise might be a bad first project
also, i should mention that the camera was having some serious glitching. i had left digic peaking on after focusing and eventually the LV got all sortsa bugged. I assume this was due to the temp being at 115. it captured images fine and metered correctly in Av mode, but the LV was scrambled. i took a video, if anyone is interested, i'll post.
Jerrykil sounds like a similar problem to the FPS I mentioned. If LV gets messed up it usually means usable RAW. In photo mode, if LV gets messed up, the camera may work okay, but difficult to compose/set exposure, etc. I would say that LV going into scrambled-Easter-egg mode is the most serious bug on EOS-M, however it happens.
Yep, bugs should go there. FPS needs a fix to stop picking the wrong mode, when it scrambles press play and it should reset. Post the video too, why not.
Check it out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwbYcDebhLY
That looks like zebras w/ overexposure everywhere.
Quote from: 1% on December 05, 2013, 10:07:28 PM
That looks like zebras w/ overexposure everywhere.
it is directed at the sun, but you see the one normal capture in the middle. i don't change exposure settings between shots and the shot comes out w/ normal exposure even though its zebras and over exposed according to LV. i did start with FPS override on to get the focus right in low light before the sun came up. If you notice the corners of the LV are flickering. it was more apparent in person and happened pretty frequently
mlv_rec.mo is working for me. i can get continuous 1280x720 but it doesn't record for long. i'm not getting assert files to share, either. you guys should try it out, i am noob at raw
http://tinyurl.com/kvk2co7
delete
The FPS override cockup is a purple and shifted image, didn't look like that for me. For raw you're kinda stuck in crop or photo mode.. make sure to set jpeg quality too or multi shot NR in photo mode... otherwise you get like 20MB of free memory and won't record long at all.
thx 1%, i should know this stuff by now. :-\
I've been having strange exposure issue with DualISO. I wonder if anyone can confirm/enlighten me on this.
I tried this on a manual lens, shooting in Av mode:
Shooting DualISO on burst (Continuous shooting mode), and shooting more than one frame in a burst, the first frame would expose differently in relation to the rest of the burst. That is if you set the iso to 100 and recovery iso to, say 3200, and shoot 4 frames in a burst, the first frame would be more overexposed compared to the rest of the burst. Seems the effect is pretty consistent even after fresh installing TL and having the camera preference reset. it makes no difference.
Any ideas?
Addendum: Apparently this affects all lenses in manual mode. STM lenses set to M in the canon menu, EF and EF-s lenses mounted via the canon EF-EOS-M Adapter with the switch set to manual focusing. When all the lenses are set to autofocus, the problem goes away.
i'm not getting the same result
Quote from: feureau on December 06, 2013, 01:47:10 PM
Any ideas?
Addendum: Apparently this affects all lenses in manual mode. STM lenses set to M in the canon menu, EF and EF-s lenses mounted via the canon EF-EOS-M Adapter with the switch set to manual focusing. When all the lenses are set to autofocus, the problem goes away.
ef-m 18-55
Can you upload some CR2 files to show it?
Quote from: jerrykil on December 06, 2013, 03:02:47 PM
i'm not getting the same resultef-m 18-55
I don't have that lens. The last time I tried that lens, my eos-m suffers from that shutter bug that shuts down the camera. :(
Can you try without a lens? I tried this: By just holding the lens on the mount, but not screwed in, meaning you still get a proper image, the first shot has a different shutter speed and more overexposed, but the subsequent ones tend to remain the same.
Quote from: a1ex on December 06, 2013, 04:08:13 PM
Can you upload some CR2 files to show it?
Sure. Currently uploading.
Quote from: feureau on December 06, 2013, 04:14:03 PM
I don't have that lens. The last time I tried that lens, my eos-m suffers from that shutter bug that shuts down the camera. :(
Can you try without a lens? I tried this: By just holding the lens on the mount, but not screwed in, meaning you still get a proper image, the first shot has a different shutter speed and more overexposed, but the subsequent ones tend to remain the same.
sorry i misread your original post. when i switched to Av mode, i was able to reproduce it with lens on and "off."
first 2 CR2's of continuous series: http://tinyurl.com/pozl2vr
(http://i.imgur.com/QlC1CWM.jpg)
Does it also happen in other modes? (try M, P and Tv)
also in P for me, but the others are spared
What happens if you set ISO in reverse? (say 1600 from Canon menu, and 100 for recovery)?
its a little harder to see, but the first shot is darker. very clear difference on histogram.
CR2 files:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58651/AutofocusOn.zip
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58651/AutofocusOff.zip
Theory: maybe Canon is looking at previous shot to adjust exposure in burst?
To confirm it, take a burst sequence starting from say 1/4 seconds. You should be able to tell the change in shutter speed from the sound (if you can't, record the sound and upload it).
Can you try something else? Enable dual ISO in raw video mode, so you should see interlaced stuff in LiveView too. If you do this, metering should be correct from the start.
This just gave me an idea for the other cameras (the DSLRs): first picture in a burst can be automatic, subsequent ones can be ETTR. I don't think it makes sense on EOS M, because the only way to meter here is from LiveView, so you can enable ETTR in M mode Always On and it effectively becomes an auto mode that plays by my rules. I also don't really know how to override shutter speed in a burst sequence yet (except for this (http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=1915.msg23797#msg23797)).
Quote from: a1ex on December 07, 2013, 06:11:38 AM
Theory: maybe Canon is looking at previous shot to adjust exposure in burst?
Okay, I hope I'm doing this right.
Quote from: a1ex on December 07, 2013, 06:11:38 AM
To confirm it, take a burst sequence starting from say 1/4 seconds. You should be able to tell the change in shutter speed from the sound (if you can't, record the sound and upload it).
if I use Tv or Manual, the bug doesn't appear, so I dim the room and shot this with Av: With the 22 stm lens unscrewed, and the lens held on the mount: the first frame fired at 0.5" while the rest fires at 1/25th. There's no need to record audio, the difference in shutter sound is clearly obvious.
Quote from: a1ex on December 07, 2013, 06:11:38 AM
Can you try something else? Enable dual ISO in raw video mode, so you should see interlaced stuff in LiveView too. If you do this, metering should be correct from the start.
In movie mode, with movie auto exposure on, with DualISO and RAW video enabled, sometimes the exposure would pulse between darker and brighter exposure. Using manual lens (I used the 22stm unscrewed and held on the mount) I then hit the shutter to burst until the buffer ran out. the resulting picture would have the same shutter speed, but some frames would be at lower ISO compared to other frames.
Yea it pulses the ETTR bright/dark when there is a fairly bright source.
Quotesometimes the exposure would pulse between darker and brighter exposure
I found it worked better in movie than photo. Hard to reproduce consistently.
is there a pink dot remover for shooting raw MLV files? PDR.exe and FocusPixelFixer.exe does not accept MLV files. I still see faint pink dots in MLV extracted DNG's.
Quote from: 1% on December 08, 2013, 04:17:10 AM
Yea it pulses the ETTR bright/dark when there is a fairly bright source.
I found it worked better in movie than photo. Hard to reproduce consistently.
But.. I don't have the ETTR module loaded...
Only dualISO and Raw movie was loaded.
Guess my reading comprehension has a bug? Anyway ETTR does that for me.
Upgraded to tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Dec07.EOSM202. Cropmode overlay is off. These are very close to being perfect.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/eosmcrop_small.jpg)
Download: https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/EosmCrop.bmp (https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/EosmCrop.bmp)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/eosmcross_small.jpg)
Download: https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/EosmCross.bmp (https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/EosmCross.bmp)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/eosmthirds_small.jpg)
Download: https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/EosmThirds.bmp (https://googledrive.com/host/0B4jFn5c8x4h1djBvbEcxZ0VzUGM/EosmThirds.bmp)
Quote from: gary2013 on December 08, 2013, 06:34:27 AM
is there a pink dot remover for shooting raw MLV files? PDR.exe and FocusPixelFixer.exe does not accept MLV files. I still see faint pink dots in MLV extracted DNG's.
There is an option for chroma smoothing in mlv_dump, I think it's --cs2x2 (not sure, didn't try it).
Quote from: a1ex on December 08, 2013, 08:46:56 PM
There is an option for chroma smoothing in mlv_dump, I think it's --cs2x2 (not sure, didn't try it).
Alex, where can I download mlv_dump? I ran a search here but nothing came up.
I found it here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7122.msg65821#msg65821
How did you convert the MLV files?
Quote from: a1ex on December 08, 2013, 09:04:02 PM
I found it here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7122.msg65821#msg65821
How did you convert the MLV files?
thgat link takes me to a post by g3ggo and it says
"here is a windows build of mlv_dump:" But I see nothing there to download?? is it somewhere within that whole thread?
i have been using mlv2dng.exe
Quote from: gary2013 on December 08, 2013, 09:16:07 PM
thgat link takes me to a post by g3ggo and it says
"here is a windows build of mlv_dump:" But I see nothing there to download?? is it somewhere within that whole thread?
i have been using mlv2dng.exe
how bout this link?
http://upload.g3gg0.de/pub_files/fb196456f6a6389763cab895fb6067f8/mlv_dump.exe
ps. the word "here" is actually the link in there. you probably just missed it
Quote from: jerrykil on December 08, 2013, 09:44:45 PM
how bout this link?
http://upload.g3gg0.de/pub_files/fb196456f6a6389763cab895fb6067f8/mlv_dump.exe
ps. the word "here" is actually the link in there. you probably just missed it
Thanx Jerry and Alex. That link worked. What is the procedure? I just tried dropping an MLV file onto the dump file, a command window popped up for a second. Did it clean the MLV file at this point? I tried an extraction and looked at the first DNG and it still had pin dots. This MLV stuff is sort of new to me. I am trying to learn and catch up with everyone using it.
Quote from: gary2013 on December 08, 2013, 09:56:38 PM
Thanx Jerry and Alex. That link worked. What is the procedure? I just tried dropping an MLV file onto the dump file, a command window popped up for a second. Did it clean the MLV file at this point? I tried an extraction and looked at the first DNG and it still had pin dots. This MLV stuff is sort of new to me. I am trying to learn and catch up with everyone using it.
Quote from: a1ex on December 08, 2013, 08:46:56 PM
There is an option for chroma smoothing in mlv_dump, I think it's --cs2x2 (not sure, didn't try it).
you'll have to use the command prompt to issue the --cs2x2 option
sorry i can't help much more than that at the moment
also, i guess i have to do some more precompile scripting to get it to compile on my mac:
9 warnings generated.
Undefined symbols for architecture i386:
"__fseeki64", referenced from:
_load_frame in mlv_dump-8Ru5Sr.o
_load_index in mlv_dump-8Ru5Sr.o
_main in mlv_dump-8Ru5Sr.o
"_ftello64", referenced from:
_load_frame in mlv_dump-8Ru5Sr.o
_load_index in mlv_dump-8Ru5Sr.o
_main in mlv_dump-8Ru5Sr.o
ld: symbol(s) not found for architecture i386
clang: error: linker command failed with exit code 1 (use -v to see invocation)
make: *** [mlv_dump] Error 1fixed with:
#if ($OS == Windows_NT)
//#define fseeko _fseeki64
// #define ftello ftello64
#else
#define fseeko fseeko
#define ftello ftello
#endif
gutta figure out why it thinks im on NTwhy does it think i'm on Windows?
double ouch... must be missing 64 bit functions that handle large files.
Gary and a1ex,
running mlv_dump.exe from link in wine, i'm not getting the --cs2x2 option with that i get with the latest mlv_dump built from TL nightly. ther is however a link later on here:
http://upload.g3gg0.de/pub_files/27a867063ed87d2f079cde5f8b577a88/mlv_rec.zip
which includes a nov 14th build. that one has --cs2x2 built in
wow i played with raw for the first time and its a lot of fun! gjob g3gg0r, cuz mlv_dump is fast and i don't see any pink anything! davinci lite is something else, also
Yea, digicV doesn't have many pink frame probs.
i get a stack overflow free=0 used=1200 when i ttry to autofocus w/ halfpress while shooting raw in photomode. i'm guessing thats not nomal
In what task? Have a detailed log?
It's not normal, side effects can be anything, including camera brick. I'm not joking.
Quote from: jerrykil on December 10, 2013, 12:25:19 AM
i get a stack overflow free=0 used=1200 when i ttry to autofocus w/ halfpress while shooting raw in photomode. i'm guessing thats not nomal
I have reported in here a few times of having stack overflows. I also get a camera freeze if I try to autofocus during raw recording. Then it needs a battery pull to recover.
I also got a stack overflow this morning while trying a raw test, but in video mode. It seemed to be triggered by bouncing between h264 and RAW recording. Battery pull fixed it. Is there any procedure that might prevent a camera brick if we see stack overflows?
Without a complete log there's nothing I can do. If you can get at least the task name, I can try to reproduce it on 5D3.
My stack overflows are not that often. Maybe 3% of the time, just guessing. It is a sentence in red text at the top of the display that stays on until I reboot. I am still able to use the camera with it displayed. I don't think I can reproduce it, but I will try and get a log to submit if possible next time it happens.
Unfortunately, DM Logging doesnt seem to be working for me when i do this. I'll try a couple more times
EDIT:
So here is what is causing my stack overflow in step by step
- Clean install of the latest and greatest build ( 62cb47a )
cleared all settings, ExpSim is on movie mode, camera is set to JPG-L, and continuous shooting in Photo mode and AF.
I enable mlv_rec and nothing else
i turn on dm log.
i hit menu to start recording>"Continuous OK"
i do a half-press to focus>BOOM it stops everything, clears the buffer indicators, and, sometimes, i get red letters saying "[44]: <<blank spaces>> stack overflow: free=0 used=544497930", unfortunately half of the error msg is hidden under some jank
no DM log :(
pull battery, restart, ML knows it made a no-no so it doesn't load modules
When you get the stack overflow, ML should save a log file (no need to use other tools). If it doesn't, just print the complete message from the screen (including task name).
edit: took a closer look at the code and this part doesn't save a log file. Just get the task name from the error message:
"[%d] %s: stack %s: free=%d used=%d ",
id, task_name,
so the %s part is the one I'm looking for.
Quote from: a1ex on December 10, 2013, 09:42:28 PM
When you get the stack overflow, ML should save a log file (no need to use other tools). If it doesn't, just print the complete message from the screen (including task name).
edit: took a closer look at the code and this part doesn't save a log file. Just get the task name from the error message:
"[%d] %s: stack %s: free=%d used=%d ",
id, task_name,
so the %s part is the one I'm looking for.
its actually blanked out. maybe its a LV drawing function covering it? i can't get DM to put anything out either (posted above)
Another trick: grab a screenshot from the task list from Debug menu, then lookup the task ID there.
cool trick! its still task 44 and that is TestGero (checked in the same boot cycle, even though it oesn't seem to change after reboot)
That's a Canon task. This doesn't say much about where the bug is:
- it can be a Canon bug (remember that raw is a debug flag in their code, so it probably didn't get as much test coverage as the stuff that got enabled in the final version)
- or it can be a ML bug (since both run in the same memory space, it's easy for one task to write over the other's data structures)
So, a user-level program can access the entire RAM (you probably already know this). It's a double-edged sword: it makes it very easy for ML to boot and patch things around, but combine this with a poor design decision from Canon regarding persistent settings (http://www.reikan.co.uk/photography/blog/?p=1550) and you'll understand why this kind of error is very dangerous and should be fixed asap.
Of course, the probability of something going wrong is very low. Some of my neighbours used a WW2 projectile for 10 years as anvil (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anvil) and they are still alive :D
Back to our topic: if you enable some raw histograms in photo mode (say raw zebras), and autofocus, can you trigger the problem?
Another test: in boot-hack.c, my_big_init_task, do just this:
static void my_big_init_task()
{
call("lv_save_raw", 1);
}
and in gui.c, comment out the TASK_OVERRIDE line (at the end).
With this change, you will have no user tasks running, just plain Canon firmware in RAW LV mode. If you are still getting the error, it's a Canon bug (but we still have to find some workaround).
Quote from: a1ex on December 10, 2013, 10:49:30 PM
Back to our topic: if you enable some raw histograms in photo mode (say raw zebras), and autofocus, can you trigger the problem?
i'm back! so i tried some stuff u suggested. The zebras are on, and they work w/o a problem. could it be because zebras disappear on half-press? i'm not sure how that functionality is managed...
Histogram was already on and I also tried Magic Zoom and Focus Peaking. Everything seems to work fine on Half-press.
Quote from: a1ex on December 10, 2013, 10:49:30 PM
Another test: in boot-hack.c, my_big_init_task, do just this:
static void my_big_init_task()
{
call("lv_save_raw", 1);
}
and in gui.c, comment out the TASK_OVERRIDE line (at the end).
With this change, you will have no user tasks running, just plain Canon firmware in RAW LV mode. If you are still getting the error, it's a Canon bug (but we still have to find some workaround).
everything compiles fine but ML doesnt seem to boot. I get a consistent orange light and no ML menu :(
thx for your time!
am i the only one experiencing this? i didn't test this before but this happens in video mode w/ crop mode off, also. same task crashed
EDIT: yeah raw looks best in crop but i can't get a decent frame most of the time
Hm... uncomment CONFIG_HELLO_WORLD in config-defines.h and start tweaking from there.
I'm talking about *raw* overlays. Zebras are YUV by default, MZ is only YUV. Also, can you reproduce the same bug with raw_rec?
Quote from: a1ex on December 11, 2013, 06:46:43 AM
Hm... uncomment CONFIG_HELLO_WORLD in config-defines.h and start tweaking from there.
I'm talking about *raw* overlays. Zebras are YUV by default, MZ is only YUV. Also, can you reproduce the same bug with raw_rec?
raw_rec.mo also crashes.
zebras don't like JPG-L mode (they require Raw shooting mode to be on), but when raw_rec is enabled in JPG-L mode they work fine on half-press so long as recording has not yet started. once recording starts, they work until half-press.
enabling config_hello_world and the gui.c & boot-hack.c modifications yielded a bin that never did greet the world :(
thx again!
Yes, zebras are raw only when you shoot raw (photo or video).
If it happens in recording, but not in standby, I think we narrowed it down to raw_rec/mlv_rec. You can try a simple test: disable the vsync hook in raw_rec (comment out MODULE_CBR(CBR_VSYNC, raw_rec_vsync_cbr, 0)) and - of course - it will not record anything, but will do some preparations.
thanx Jerry for this new link location. Will you be posting the daily M builds again? bot fly looks to be down again.
gary, definitely will be. I'm hanging on to this host because they've been really good, but if it doesn't get fixed, i'll have to move to a new host. in the mean time i'll post my builds on google drive for you guys. there haven't been many commits lately because of holidays, so you're not missing any updates.
Hello,
I whant to download the nightly build and i obtain this ?
http://tl.bot-fly.com is out !
"tl.bot-fly.com will be down while hosting figures stuff out. ETA is before 2014."
Thanks for your great work !
Best regards
Quote from: meditant on December 12, 2013, 09:47:52 AM
Hello,
I whant to download the nightly build and i obtain this ?
http://tl.bot-fly.com is out !
"tl.bot-fly.com will be down while hosting figures stuff out. ETA is before 2014."
Thanks for your great work !
Best regards
here is the last download from Dec 8 for the EOS-M camera that I got from bot fly when it was active. I am not respionsible for any problems you might have. I am only sending what I got from there. I have no problems using it, though.
https://www.transferbigfiles.com/6d245837-f25d-409a-9d74-381dcebe83e8/ieb-PVTNSDaXb4aPpfj_wg2
Ok thanks
Best regards
1% (and all devs),
It would be really nice to get TL or ML working on the Olympus OM-D E-M5. This camera has the fastest AF and a built in 5 axis image stabilization meaning we can use and lens without IS for MFT (or adapter) and get fantastic steady cam looking movies. It has three levels of IS to choose from. plus off Plus, we could use the Speedbooster on this camera to get one or two more F stops plus a wider angle. That could possibly mean the 2x crop factor would be back to full frame or close to it from what I have been reading. There are many other great features, but the biggest problems are the codec being around only 26mb/s. Not sure exactly on that number. So, it could use a better way to improve that and also shoot raw if possible. The other big problem is only an on camera stereo mic with no mic input for L/R and no headphone jack output.
I am starting to see more people get this camera and many are also looking closer at it like I have also been doing now since last July. I feel I/we have probably peaked on the M camera. I know Max went for the BMPC just aweek or so ago. Is there any reason why ML has only been on Canon all this time? Has any dev ever considered hacking other cameras such as this Olympus? The BMPCC would also be a good project to hack since they did not even add audio meters anywhere. Plus time remaining, disk format and file delete. Plus more, I'm sure. Like waveform, vector, parade, histogram.
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on December 12, 2013, 12:28:28 PM
here is the last download from Dec 8 for the EOS-M camera that I got from bot fly when it was active. I am not respionsible for any problems you might have. I am only sending what I got from there. I have no problems using it, though.
https://www.transferbigfiles.com/6d245837-f25d-409a-9d74-381dcebe83e8/ieb-PVTNSDaXb4aPpfj_wg2
This download link is no longer available... says it has been deleted from the servers. Anyone else got it?
Quote from: gary2013 on December 13, 2013, 04:58:48 AM
1% (and all devs),
It would be really nice to get TL or ML working on the Olympus OM-D E-M5.
LOL, It would be really nice to get 'SomeWindowsProgram.exe' to run natively on the iPad.
You are basically asking the devs to abandon ML and start an entirely new hack. You would have to redo everything from the ground up. IDK if anybody even knows what kind of CPU that camera has, or how to hack it (i.e. how to get your own arbitrary code onto it and executing). It's hard enough to port ML to a new version of the firmware for the same exact camera. Everything ML does depends on very specific routines in the Canon firmware, and very specific values for various hardware registers. None of that would be the same. You'd have to throw out 100% of the code.
Quote from: AnotherDave on December 13, 2013, 03:43:11 PM
This download link is no longer available... says it has been deleted from the servers. Anyone else got it?
I got one from Dec 5. https://www.dropbox.com/s/aghzahauuihhdss/tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Dec05.EOSM202.zip
I don't know how much difference with the dec 9 version, but it should work fine for the time being.
Quote from: dmilligan on December 13, 2013, 06:28:58 PM
LOL, It would be really nice to get 'SomeWindowsProgram.exe' to run natively on the iPad.
You are basically asking the devs to abandon ML and start an entirely new hack. You would have to redo everything from the ground up. IDK if anybody even knows what kind of CPU that camera has, or how to hack it (i.e. how to get your own arbitrary code onto it and executing). It's hard enough to port ML to a new version of the firmware for the same exact camera. Everything ML does depends on very specific routines in the Canon firmware, and very specific values for various hardware registers. None of that would be the same. You'd have to throw out 100% of the code.
I understand. Then maybe some ML dev can then maybe make a Canon have five axis image stabilization in the body (then all lenses will have IS) and the have super fast auto focus like the Olympus. LOL I know, won't happen.
I am not asking for anyone to abandon anything. You never know unless you ask, or if you try. Maybe someone out there would want to try. You never know. There are devs out there that maybe are not working on ML and would like to be the new heroes in the world of cameras. Many people and businesses get to a point and decide they want to branch out. Nothing wrong with that at all. Some people a long time ago decided they wanted to branch out and they were told the world is flat and they would fall off. They decided to branch out anyways and they found the world was round and there was other land to be found. It might take someone maybe 5 minutes or less to find out about these other cameras and then know what is possible and what not. There is no reason for anyone that only owns Canon cameras and ML to get worried that they might lose their current devs. It is up to them (people that have dev skills) to decide since no one is being paid and there is no ML business being all volunteer. I have heard a few times there are maybe only five devs that are currently here. :)
Edit- another great candidate for hacking is BMPCC and BMCC. Boy, they sure need some help.
Quote from: feureau on December 13, 2013, 09:16:46 PM
I got one from Dec 5. https://www.dropbox.com/s/aghzahauuihhdss/tragiclantern-Tragic.2013Dec05.EOSM202.zip
I don't know how much difference with the dec 9 version, but it should work fine for the time being.
I don't think they have changed much recently. I have not seen any diff just being a user. My uplink only lasted a few days before. I could put it up again if someone wants it.
I was wondering why the word Tragic came up. Why it was thought of and considered that eventually became the name. It's just a thought and I mean no harm to anyone over it.
The word was chosen by 1% more than one year ago.
After struggling to merge TL code a few times, I've noticed it diverged a lot from the Magic Lantern tree, it doesn't follow some coding practices that I consider essential (especially this one: when something doesn't work, the error message simply gets disabled instead of fixing the problem), a lot of my advice was ignored, so I've decided to fix it the hard way: this line of development can no longer be called Magic Lantern.
My opinion is also shared by some other ML developers, but they just didn't want to tell it in public. I'd rather have it solved than hiding behind a finger.
The good news is that @jordancolburn already updated ML to 2.0.2 ( https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/pull-request/303/updated-eosm-to-run-on-firmware-v-202/diff ), and if all goes well, we may have official nightly builds for the EOS M soon.
Thank you Alex. I understand completely and everyone enjoys good news. :) Can the nightly builds also be compiled and zipped like Jerry was doing at bot fly before since I have no dev skills for compiling.
Gary
Quote from: gary2013 on December 14, 2013, 06:55:43 AM
Can the nightly builds also be compiled and zipped like Jerry was doing at bot fly before since I have no dev skills for compiling.
You were not aware of this page? http://builds.magiclantern.fm/#/
no, i was always on this M thread and bot fly from Jerry. I will bookmark that page and watch it. thanx Alex and Jordan.
Quote from: a1ex on December 14, 2013, 05:24:58 AM
The word was chosen by 1% more than one year ago.
The good news is that @jordancolburn already updated ML to 2.0.2 ( https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/pull-request/303/updated-eosm-to-run-on-firmware-v-202/diff ), and if all goes well, we may have official nightly builds for the EOS M soon.
Yeah ... a1ex - thanks for giving us users a hopeful sign after this long time of suffering. And another thanks goes to @jordancolburn - really hope all goes well!
Quote from: funkysound on December 14, 2013, 11:31:30 AM
And another thanks goes to @jordancolburn - really hope all goes well!
Thanks, I got the basics for 2.02 working based on looking through 1%'s code. He documented everything pretty well with his commit messages, so it wasn't too bad. Once EOSM gets back into the nightlies, we should start a new thread since it will be missing any bug fixes 1% did and any features specific to TL. I'd appreciate anyone's help who might want to point out missing features or bugs, so I can try to pull the most necessary stuff over first.
Quote from: jordancolburn on December 14, 2013, 08:59:49 PM
Thanks, I got the basics for 2.02 working based on looking through 1%'s code. He documented everything pretty well with his commit messages, so it wasn't too bad. Once EOSM gets back into the nightlies, we should start a new thread since it will be missing any bug fixes 1% did and any features specific to TL. I'd appreciate anyone's help who might want to point out missing features or bugs, so I can try to pull the most necessary stuff over first.
Sounds good to me. I think for video it´s most importend to have first the normal daily used stuff like zebra, focus peaking, 3x zoom, record restart, ... and to get rid of this f... shutter bug. With other words a basic version which could be more or less called stable before working on raw a.s.o. ...
All the basics do seem to work for me. Zebras focus peaking(the old style i think), 3x zoom (fantastic with the 22mm lens) and all that seem good. I think the stuff to iron out will be little bugs like with AF on, it seems to track faces through the ML menu and 3x zoom setting persists after turning the camera off, so switching to a non ML card, you get stuck in crop mode for video.
I am so so glad to hear that somebody is trying to get a stable version of ML EOS-M up. I am one of those people who chose Canon's because of Magic Lantern and things like magic zoom, peaking, false color, and zebras. These are the things that are built into normal video cameras and help to make a Canon DSLR a viable choice for videography. Thank you.
Hi guys,
Thanx for all your hard efforts. I think my problem seems to be unique so I decided to have it written here. I have EOS M with 1.06 firmware and ML installed on a 64GB card. I am trying to get a constant timelapse but the camera becomes unresponsive after 2 or 3 days. The camera mentioned a shoot malloc when I was trying to format the card (keeping the ML)
Is it the same problem with the shutterbug that is being discussed in various topics or is it something new?
would installing 2.02 fix that?
Would changing the card to 32GB fix that?
I am running a test with the same features but on a 32GB card I would let you know the results in a few days but if there is anyone who has already tried it can save my time and would be appreciated
I hope you continue the development for EOS-M, i have magic lantern on my 5DIII's and it's very very cool !
I hope i can use magic or tragic lantern on my EOS-M !
Best regards and 1000 thanks for you good job
Quote from: jordancolburn on December 14, 2013, 08:59:49 PM
...I'd appreciate anyone's help who might want to point out missing features or bugs, so I can try to pull the most necessary stuff over first.
I know, I have said it over and over again, but since you asked, I would like to see the audio headphone out to work on the M. 1% spoke a few times as if he was just about to get to working on it and that he felt it was doable. Having the ability to hear the audio before , during and after an interview is crucial along with seeing the video playback on the lcd of the M. The whole purpose, at least for me, was buying the M to use in making documentaries while being discreet and having light weight without having lots of extra gear to carry and setup. The sound on camera is just fine for me. So, please try and get the audio out for headphones on the AV port as well as getting the audio meters to be visible before recording and during recording.
Most of us have agreed that we will never be able to get 1080p30 or 24p raw on the M considering its hardware limitations. I can use H264 but I would like to see ways to improve the codec to get the absolute best quality video at 1080p30. CBR? VBR? Setings? New controls?? Is there such a thing as getting ProRes thru software on this camera?
Are there any ways to eliminate or reduce aliasing and moire thru ML software? I know about Mosiacs hardware filter, but that is costly and sometimes not good for wide angle shots. A software solution would be fantastic. I am wondering about not doing line skipping which I hear causes the problems. A new algorithm from raw to the encoder, maybe? Just guessing about all of this since I am not a dev.
How about some new way to open ML menus besides the current 2 finger swipe. outdoors on a bright day using a loupe or sunshade makes it a PIA to get to the touchscreen. I think Alex suggested awhile back a long press and hold the SET button? Some sort of single button press can maybe work.
Quote from: gary2013 on December 19, 2013, 09:19:10 PM
I know, I have said it over and over again, but since you asked, I would like to see the audio headphone out to work on the M. 1% spoke a few times as if he was just about to get to working on it and that he felt it was doable. Having the ability to hear the audio before , during and after an interview is crucial along with seeing the video playback on the lcd of the M. The whole purpose, at least for me, was buying the M to use in making documentaries while being discreet and having light weight without having lots of extra gear to carry and setup. The sound on camera is just fine for me. So, please try and get the audio out for headphones on the AV port as well as getting the audio meters to be visible before recording and during recording.
Lightweight docs is why I got the M too, and audio will be one of the big things I'll look at. I think audio meters before recording probably can't happen since the chip is only active once you start. You can test levels in the Canon manual setup and see meters before recording, or just record a test clip to test the levels (this is what I do on the t3i). I am a little more concerned with trying to pick up all the bugs and stability stuff first, and 1% is sure to be better and faster for new feature stuff like that, but I'll give it a try to.
The EOSM seems perfect for grabbing quick interviews for Docs, a simple clip on lav with 1/8" connector can fit in a jacket pocket with the EOSM, 22mm lens and a backup battery and card, and you are always ready to grab a quick interview or story (on some recent trips, we always find that when people are most at ease and willing to share their stories, is when we're least prepared shoot and out to eat or something).
Hi there! I'm new to the forum, and want to thank you all for your hard work.
I have a problem that I hope you can help with. I recently bought an EOS-M and couldn't wait to put ML on it. It downloaded fine and everything seems to work fine, except when I try to shoot RAW video. It seems to start shooting, then after a second the camera restarts, without saving any files. It happens in crop mode as well. I'm using Transcent 32GB SDHC class 10 card and I tested with 1408x362 resolution at 2.35:1 ratio. Sorry if this problem has been resolved before, the topic is 89 pages long now and my search found nothing.
Quote from: jordancolburn on December 19, 2013, 09:51:08 PM
The EOSM seems perfect for grabbing quick interviews for Docs, a simple clip on lav with 1/8" connector can fit in a jacket pocket with the EOSM, 22mm lens and a backup battery and card, and you are always ready to grab a quick interview or story (on some recent trips, we always find that when people are most at ease and willing to share their stories, is when we're least prepared shoot and out to eat or something).
That´s exactly how it is! As less official as possible gives the best results - that´s why we don´t use big cams very often for theses cases.
Quote from: R4dev on December 20, 2013, 04:01:17 AM
Hi there! I'm new to the forum, and want to thank you all for your hard work.
I have a problem that I hope you can help with. I recently bought an EOS-M and couldn't wait to put ML on it. It downloaded fine and everything seems to work fine, except when I try to shoot RAW video. It seems to start shooting, then after a second the camera restarts, without saving any files. It happens in crop mode as well. I'm using Transcent 32GB SDHC class 10 card and I tested with 1408x362 resolution at 2.35:1 ratio. Sorry if this problem has been resolved before, the topic is 89 pages long now and my search found nothing.
While I never experienced the camera restarting, I had issues with a class 10 transend card. Try turning on FPS override to something like 8 fps just to test the stability and post workflow, and look for something like a sandisk 45 MBs card once you're ready to take the next step.
Quote from: gary2013 on December 19, 2013, 09:19:10 PMI can use H264 but I would like to see ways to improve the codec to get the absolute best quality video at 1080p30. CBR? VBR? Setings? New controls?? Is there such a thing as getting ProRes thru software on this camera?
This is what the bitrate controls are for; 3.0x CBR has always worked quite nicely for me and reduces a ton of compression artifacts in the shadows. I've even shot some stuff with that value cranked up to 5.0x without much trouble.
Quote from: gary2013 on December 19, 2013, 09:19:10 PMAre there any ways to eliminate or reduce aliasing and moire thru ML software?
Definitely, it's movie crop mode (2.7x zoom) which captures from the middle 37% of the sensor without skipping lines. That certainly narrows your field of view, but it's a 5K sensor. To take advantage of the whole sensor without line skipping, the camera would be shooting at a resolution the hardware couldn't keep up with, and that the transcode processor doesn't support.
These questions coming from you Gary are puzzling; you've done a ton of experimenting, and I thought you knew all of this already.
Just to make note of it here for Jordan, the ML features I use all the time are Bit Rate, FPS Override, Movie Crop Mode, Crop Marks, Histogram, Intervalometer, and everything from the exposure tab.
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on December 20, 2013, 05:59:55 PM
This is what the bitrate controls are for; 3.0x CBR has always worked quite nicely for me and reduces a ton of compression artifacts in the shadows. I've even shot some stuff with that value cranked up to 5.0x without much trouble.
Definitely, it's movie crop mode (2.7x zoom) which captures from the middle 37% of the sensor without skipping lines. That certainly narrows your field of view, but it's a 5K sensor. To take advantage of the whole sensor without line skipping, the camera would be shooting at a resolution the hardware couldn't keep up with, and that the transcode processor doesn't support.
These questions coming from you Gary are puzzling; you've done a ton of experimenting, and I thought you knew all of this already.
Just to make note of it here for Jordan, the ML features I use all the time are Bit Rate, FPS Override, Movie Crop Mode, Crop Marks, Histogram, Intervalometer, and everything from the exposure tab.
Yes, I knew most of it. I wanted to see if i could push for some new info or maybe the devs could maybe expand on what we have. I should have said "besides the crop mode" for less/no aliasing so we can keep our wide angles. I have heard somewhere that possibly new algorithms would help eliminate aliasing and moire. We have to remember that some things a year ago or more were not possible and then the devs came up with new good things for us. I am now at 2.5x with CBR. I have tried higher, like up to 10x, but it was not always stable. I see I get an average of 77 mbs using 2.5x CBR. Also on VBR.
Quote from: jordancolburn on December 20, 2013, 05:42:04 PM
While I never experienced the camera restarting, I had issues with a class 10 transend card. Try turning on FPS override to something like 8 fps just to test the stability and post workflow, and look for something like a sandisk 45 MBs card once you're ready to take the next step.
I also do not get more than the buffer's worth of raw (*.mlv files)! I use a 60w/80r MB/s Sandisk Extreme. I am attempting RAW at the default rez of 1408x792 @ 24fps.
I get as high as 139mbps compressed crop video via CBR 3.1x setting - high ISO.
HELP: I do not see how to change either the resolution or the fps, thus have not tried any other.
PLZ tell me how to change these someone.
Also, why can I not get at least a bit more RAW video?
Thanks for any help!!
Quote from: R4dev on December 20, 2013, 04:01:17 AM
Hi there! I'm new to the forum, and want to thank you all for your hard work.
I have a problem that I hope you can help with. I recently bought an EOS-M and couldn't wait to put ML on it. It ................ is 89 pages long now and my search found nothing.
People that have ML running on EOS M ..... Brand new camera, after initial tests wanted to get ML. Finaly I can get to "green screen" stage - so it boots and loads FIR.
On subsequent power up it stays there flashing green led for ever.
SDHC card is 32GB Transcend class 10 ( very fast, excellent on on Sony video cams and perfect on EOS M as well). Have also SanDisk SDHC 32GB class 10 but did not try it
Aby help will be appreciated ..... Kris
Quote from: gary2013 on December 21, 2013, 03:02:45 AM
Yes, I knew most of it. I wanted to see if i could push for some new info or maybe the devs could maybe expand on what we have. I should have said "besides the crop mode" for less/no aliasing so we can keep our wide angles. I have heard somewhere that possibly new algorithms would help eliminate aliasing and moire. We have to remember that some things a year ago or more were not possible and then the devs came up with new good things for us. I am now at 2.5x with CBR. I have tried higher, like up to 10x, but it was not always stable. I see I get an average of 77 mbs using 2.5x CBR. Also on VBR.
An alternate solution that may be
plausible would be to capture in 5K and have the transcode chip downscale before storage. That being said, I understand that the black box is an enigma, and the M's buffer wouldn't likely put up with a 5K throughput. I don't even expect that the sensor is fast enough to deal with 5K capture at movie frame rates without ridiculous jello/roll. Even if all of this were possible, the transcoder's scaling algorithms might be shit and make your footage look terrible anyway.
That's a lot of
ifs, and not even an ideal solution. What I would actually LOVE however is a high quality EF mount behind-lens wide angle converter to compensate for a 4.3x crop. Alas, nothing like that exists to my knowledge.
I wonder what a shorter EF mount adapter would do on the M beside screw with focus?
How do you change the RAW resolution and fps rates diff from defaults ? (ie - do you need to change files or is it via ML menu?)
Thx!
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on December 21, 2013, 08:05:38 PM
An alternate solution that may be plausible would be to capture in 5K and have the transcode chip downscale before storage. That being said, I understand that the black box is an enigma, and the M's buffer wouldn't likely put up with a 5K throughput. I don't even expect that the sensor is fast enough to deal with 5K capture at movie frame rates without ridiculous jello/roll. Even if all of this were possible, the transcoder's scaling algorithms might be shit and make your footage look terrible anyway.
That's a lot of ifs, and not even an ideal solution. What I would actually LOVE however is a high quality EF mount behind-lens wide angle converter to compensate for a 4.3x crop. Alas, nothing like that exists to my knowledge.
I wonder what a shorter EF mount adapter would do on the M beside screw with focus?
Why would CDAF be bothered by a shorter EF mount? CDAF is sensor based, and as long as it can communicate to the lens and change its focus mechanism, it keeps trying until the 'optimum' contrast occurs? Correct? Same for PDAF, just a feedback system of AF.
The shorter EF mount would only effect the light 'cone' from lens, and in the case of EF to M, I would think it would improve but marginally 'crop' the cone a bit, no effect to AF, me thinks!
But a 5k video, not likely, I think the canon h/w & encoder h/w is not capable, so it all would be done via SD card memory - or post processing of RAW video.
Or are you suggesting still image processing at fps of 24 or something?
What is the highest bit rate for compressed video ppl have gotten from the M ?
I have seen peaks of 140mbps (CBR 3.2x), but my card is I believe not the fastest around.
Quote from: RavingRover on December 21, 2013, 11:18:00 PM
Why would CDAF be bothered by a shorter EF mount? CDAF is sensor based, and as long as it can communicate to the lens and change its focus mechanism, it keeps trying until the 'optimum' contrast occurs? Correct? Same for PDAF, just a feedback system of AF.
Auto-focus aside, wouldn't changing the flange focal distance affect focus in general? Beside focus distance not matching the lens' markings, you might also prevent a lens from focusing as near or as far as it previously could. Would be a cool experiment though; might buy one of the cheap after-market adapters on eBay and try modifying it. The light circle that hits the sensor only has to have a diameter of 9.48mm in movie crop mode, while with the adapter, EF lenses are producing a 43.23mm circle I think. Anyone that's a lens expert wanna do the math on this?
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on December 21, 2013, 11:40:01 PM
Auto-focus aside, wouldn't changing the flange focal distance affect focus in general? Beside focus distance not matching the lens' markings, you might also prevent a lens from focusing as near or as far as it previously could. Would be a cool experiment though; might buy one of the cheap after-market adapters on eBay and try modifying it. The light circle that hits the sensor only has to have a diameter of 9.93mm in movie crop mode, while with the adapter, EF lenses are producing a 43.23mm circle I think. Anyone that's a lens expert wanna do the math on this?
Sure there might be situations that 'infinity' or 'macro' may be affected but look at how on sensor CDAF/PDAF works, it has NOTHING to do with the lens beyond being able to control the focus mechanism. Correct?
This is a deficiency of the focus mechanism - ie it just can not be moved far enough NOT due the CDAF/PDAF control system not being able to tell it what to do - beyond of course the AF attempt 'time out' which already occurs!! AF is a open loop system simply due to the limited AF mechanism.
Also this problem of near and far will be dependent on each Len's capabilities, some lens will have the issue others will not, but if the distance of coupler/mechanism is too large ALL lens will be effected of course.
I believe CDAF has always been more accurate than PDAF just simply prior to last few years, where Panasonic and others of the 4/3 group got CDAF quite fast with little to NO hunting, it was way too slow compared to the 30yr old fast PDAF tech!
Part of the reason PDAF is not as accurate is that the AF sensor is dislocated and not on/at the sensor, but with Hybrid AF I/II, Canon put both CDAF & PDAF sensors on the pic sensor, but CDAF is how YOU do manual focusing NOT PDAF ! We see focus as highest contrast via sharp edges - CDAF.
Canon is now close but NOT leading in the CDAF focus speed, it will get there hopefully but it is a combination of CDAF controlling algorithms AND lens focus mechanism speed !
The 22mm M lens AF is far slower than the 18-55mm! The 22mm lens focus moves the complete group of lens elements, the 18-55/11-22mm move a smaller/lighter sub-group of elements! lens design!
Panasonic and 4/3 group had to optimize their lens for AF speed, and some are still pretty slow, as slow as the 22mm M lens or maybe worse!!
And yes it would be a fun test!
I believe overall PDAF is faster on more lens than is CDAF, especially for pro level great lens - sports/BIF/etc must have very fast focus, not yet for CDAF on more lens.
Quote from: RavingRover on December 22, 2013, 12:31:26 AM
Sure there might be situations that 'infinity' or 'macro' may be affected but look at how on sensor CDAF/PDAF works, it has NOTHING to do with the lens beyond being able to control the focus mechanism. Correct?
Hmm... I think we're having two different discussions. I don't really care about AF; never use it with video. I'm just wondering about the complications in mounting manual lenses closer to the sensor.
No AF focus NO manual focus, I suspect you do care! AF can move the focus mech. as far as it can go, understand?
Let me modify that, IF you want to focus at infinity or macro, then AF matters!
I almost always want infinity focus, YMNC!
I agree, the M has god awful hunting dog AF via servo AF in video mode, USELESS most of the time - not worth using IMO. Shameful servo AF!! I do full manual video only.
The M2 likely has usable servo AF for video, hunting is the killer though.
Hey, 1%
Since TL is now pretty much separate from ML, can we have the 30min. video limit lifted? Please? :3
IIRC someone managed to do this a while ago, but the ML team decided to not include the solution.
- Del. Don't want to disturb christmas time ... -
Jerry, I see you have your bot fly up again. I got the dec 23 ver for the eosm. For those who do not know, the dot tune module will hang all the modules from loading. so, don't enable do tune on the eosm camera with TL.
Does anyone know why the bottom left readout for the lens says 18? I know it means 18mm for my zoom lens, but shouldn't it say 18mm instead of 18c? When using the alternative setting for full frame, it says 29eq, which probably means equivalent to full frame mm. I would think ff would be better meaning full frame mm.
Quote from: gary2013 on December 24, 2013, 02:58:43 PM
Jerry, I see you have your bot fly up again. I got the dec 23 ver for the eosm. For those who do not know, the dot tune module will hang all the modules from loading. so, don't enable do tune on the eosm camera with TL.
I've never tried the dot tune for EOS-M. Does it even tune-able? Or need tuning since it's mostly contrast-detecting the phase detect? Did it hang the modules on previous versions?
Hey gary & feureau,
I'll re-disable dot_tune. The site is sorta working, so let me know if there is any more downtime.
EOSM is not tune-able from what I understand.
1%, hope you're feeling better!
Happy holidays and happy new year from Chicago 8)
Quote from: feureau on December 24, 2013, 05:23:02 PM
I've never tried the dot tune for EOS-M. Does it even tune-able? Or need tuning since it's mostly contrast-detecting the phase detect? Did it hang the modules on previous versions?
I don't know what dot tune is for, but it has always kept all the modules from loading. It does display a full page of white text when this happens. I was told by Jerry and maybe someone else to just not load it since it was not needed. Or, delete it from being in the Module folder. Just by turning that one dot tune module off then allowed all the other modules to load properly. I would like to know dot tune is for and if we really need at some time.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone. :)
i still think something is wrong with the red box displaying temp. I always see between 72C to maybe 130C. I think it should be showing Fahrenheit. My room temp is around 68F to 70F which should be shown when I turn the camera on from being off all night in my home..
Quote from: gary2013 on December 24, 2013, 07:29:07 PM
I don't know what dot tune is for, but it has always kept all the modules from loading. It does display a full page of white text when this happens. I was told by Jerry and maybe someone else to just not load it since it was not needed. Or, delete it from being in the Module folder. Just by turning that one dot tune module off then allowed all the other modules to load properly. I would like to know dot tune is for and if we really need at some time.
Dot Tune AFMA is to tune the phase detection auto focus in regular DSLRs. EOS-M has phase detection, but it seems it's more reliant on contrast detect, and there doesn't seem to be a need for AF microfinetuning. Also, is it just me or does the EF to EF-M adapter doesn't use the phase detection?
Quote from: jerrykil on December 24, 2013, 07:21:08 PM
Hey gary & feureau,
I'll re-disable dot_tune. The site is sorta working, so let me know if there is any more downtime.
Thanks for all the hard work on the site! Appreciate it! :D
Quote from: gary2013 on December 24, 2013, 07:38:15 PM
i still think something is wrong with the red box displaying temp. I always see between 72C to maybe 130C. I think it should be showing Fahrenheit. My room temp is around 68F to 70F which should be shown when I turn the camera on from being off all night in my home..
I think the temperature is for some chip on the inside of the body not the room temp though.
Quote from: feureau on December 25, 2013, 05:28:14 PM
I think the temperature is for some chip on the inside of the body not the room temp though.
I know that it is a temp of the internal chips. start up temp at 72C is not reasonable when it sat all night turned off and the camera was actually cold to my touch from the house temp being turned down at night. 72"F" seems reasonable. I bet they have that F and C backwards on the display end.
72C = 161.6F. Not possible at startup from being off all night, sitting in a cool temp room.
I just saw this thread below. These temps they show are reasonable and I have never see that on my EOSM as long as i have used ML since July 2013. I just now turned on my cold camera from sitting off all night and it shows 68C as soon as it turned on.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9673.msg93116;topicseen#msg93116
Quote from: feureau on December 25, 2013, 05:28:14 PM
Dot Tune AFMA is to tune the phase detection auto focus in regular DSLRs. EOS-M has phase detection, but it seems it's more reliant on contrast detect, and there doesn't seem to be a need for AF microfinetuning. Also, is it just me or does the EF to EF-M adapter doesn't use the phase detection?
..
My understanding of the EOS M/650D hybrid AF is that the initial focus is PDAF (gets close and sets direction needed for CDAF focus completion), then the CDAF finishes the AF. Whereas AFAIK, the Panasonic mirrorless AF is all CDAF.
I am sure Canon can justify their approach and maybe it has to do with backward compatibility? (I doubt) Or is it that the Canon AF system (cam h/w and lens focus mech) simply can not do that fast/no hunting CDAF like Panasonic/(4/3) can do on newer lens?
I believe micro-finetuning makes no sense on a CDAF system, only on PDAF, but I wonder if it could make AF on hybrid faster ? (ever so slightly)
My store testing of a SL100, seemed the focus as fast as I would ever want (1/4 sec?), and I believe this is the EOS M2 AF system, but NOT 1D X PDAF speed for sports/etc of course !!
EOSM is back into the nightly builds for ML. Try it out and comment on your experience and the things that you need to see fixed in order for it to be useful to you:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9741.msg93694
Quote from: feureau on December 25, 2013, 05:28:14 PM
and there doesn't seem to be a need for AF microfinetuning.
mine does, it back focuses a smudge. If I switch to MF I can get it quite a bit sharper.
Happy new year to all !!!
Wish you all the best for you and your picturessssssss ! 8)
Can we expect an audio monitoring with EOSM for 2014 ? ;)
Quote from: AlexCorona on January 02, 2014, 04:53:36 AM
mine does, it back focuses a smudge. If I switch to MF I can get it quite a bit sharper.
What lens are you using?
I am super green to ML. Still trying to make it work. Downloaded several builds from Tragic Lantern, installed them with the ML confirmation screen and when I reboot, it reverts back to 2.0.2. Not sure what I am doing wrong.
A quick note. Loaded a version from 1/6/2014. Looks promising! Haven't had time to read the posts from the past few weeks. Was able to shoot some 720p RAW and go into photo mode and take a photo.
Does anyone know how to hide/disable the top and bottom bar in live view overlays?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58651/IMG_3988.jpg
On that pic: the one with the clock, RAW, HTP, P, ISO, AutoWB and everything. Just clean live view with only crop marks and focus peaking.
I just wanted to use focus peaking and cropmarks, but if I use Display > Clear overlays, they all disappear,
There's a few options to move the top and bottom bars to the bottom etc, but they still block parts of the image. It would be nice if we could hide them or move them to the side in 1:1 mode.
I can't use the 1:1 crop mode in the camera since ML would remove the 1:1 crop if I press half shutter, and without global draw, I can't have focus peaking.
You are looking for this thread: www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8539
short answer: somebody should code it.
Quote from: maxotics on January 07, 2014, 05:37:53 AM
A quick note. Loaded a version from 1/6/2014. Looks promising! Haven't had time to read the posts from the past few weeks. Was able to shoot some 720p RAW and go into photo mode and take a photo.
Hi Max, welcome back. What do you see now that you like? I have been using all the builds as they are posted both for ML and TL and I have not had any major problems.
Quote from: aseibold on January 07, 2014, 04:31:52 AM
I am super green to ML. Still trying to make it work. Downloaded several builds from Tragic Lantern, installed them with the ML confirmation screen and when I reboot, it reverts back to 2.0.2. Not sure what I am doing wrong.
I am not sure what you mean. 2.0.2 is the Canon firmware version and that is always the same until Canon makes any new changes.
Maybe he is not aware about those two items
- ML does *not* replace Canon's firmware but runs on top of it
- To access ML menus he has to press the trashcan button first
Ciao
Walter
Quote from: Walter Schulz on January 07, 2014, 01:08:07 PM
Maybe he is not aware about those two items
- ML does *not* replace Canon's firmware but runs on top of it
- To access ML menus he has to press the trashcan button first
Ciao
Walter
I did not see a camera listed on his post. With the M, like I have, we have to always use a two finger swipe on the lcd screen to open the ML menus.
Quote from: gary2013 on January 07, 2014, 12:59:43 PM
What do you see now that you like?
I'm just hopeful that this new push on ML for the EOS-M will result in a reliable hack that I can use. As you know, I've been using the BMPCC and it is very reliable. The last time I was using ML it wouldn't turn audio back on for H.264. If I switched to photo mode without re-setting FPS the LV would get scrambled.
Another reason I've come back is Microsoft finally gave me a date to use their Research facility in Cambridge, MA for a Video RAW meetup. I know you're not local, but I'm hoping we can eventually either web-cast or skype people in. Still a ways to go.
BTW, I also spent a little with with Duncan, who bought my 50D, he showed me the latest on that camera and it is very impressive.
Quote from: maxotics on January 07, 2014, 04:18:47 PM
I'm just hopeful that this new push on ML for the EOS-M will result in a reliable hack that I can use. As you know, I've been using the BMPCC and it is very reliable. The last time I was using ML it wouldn't turn audio back on for H.264. If I switched to photo mode without re-setting FPS the LV would get scrambled.
This is unlikely without proper testing feedback (http://see%20www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9516) and bug reports (http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/bugs.html). This section feels kinda empty: https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/issues?version=EOS-M
Welcome to Linux Airlines (http://www.zyra.org.uk/os-air.htm). Unlike BMPCC, ML is a spare-time community project and nobody of us is developing full-time. Identifying the bugs is a very time-consuming process for us, and doesn't require any coding skills, so you can help a lot simply by documenting these issues properly.
Just so you get an idea about the complexity of software testing: imagine you have a menu with only 16 boolean items (just on/off). To cover all the combinations (e.g. check the interactions between various features and such), you would need only 65536 test cases. Increase the number of menu items to 32, and you need 4294967296 test cases to cover everything. Sure, in practice you can figure out what features are likely to interact, and only test those combinations.
These days, ML has hundreds of options in menu (if not one thousand). I'm pretty sure if somebody sits down and tries every single menu item (just one at a time, not combinations), he/she will find a bunch of bugs. It happens to me every time I get bored in the train and I start playing with the camera.
Quote from: a1ex on January 07, 2014, 05:06:06 PM
Welcome to Linux Airlines (http://www.zyra.org.uk/os-air.htm). Unlike BMPCC, ML is a spare-time community project and nobody of us is developing full-time. Identifying the bugs is a very time-consuming process for us, and doesn't require any coding skills, so you can help a lot simply by documenting these issues properly.
BMD has full time developers and still hasn't realeased fixes/features for their cameras (audio meters?) that the ML team solved on cameras that they don't even make.
Quote from: a1ex on January 07, 2014, 10:35:48 AM
You are looking for this thread: www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8539
short answer: somebody should code it.
I see. Thank you.
I don't C very well, should I just add it to https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/issues?version=EOS-M ?
I'd rather keep the issue tracker for bugs only.
IMO, this one fits best as a suggestion in that thread; it's not specific to EOS-M.
Quote from: a1ex on January 07, 2014, 05:06:06 PMIt happens to me every time I get bored ...
haha, wish that would ever happen to me :)
Quote from: feureau on January 04, 2014, 09:32:38 PM
What lens are you using?
22mm 2.0, surprisingly I love the drive by wire focusing on it.
MUCH better than I thought it would be!
Plus it's fun going from infinity to close focus in half a second, can't do that with any of my other lenses!
delete
Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on December 22, 2013, 12:51:07 AM
Hmm... I think we're having two different discussions. I don't really care about AF; never use it with video. I'm just wondering about the complications in mounting manual lenses closer to the sensor.
I get what you're talking about. You'd need a focal reducer like the Metabones Speedbooster or even the crappy Mitakon (that would probably be sharp enough in the center with the crop mode). Just moving the lens closer or farther away wouldn't give you what you want because the focal plane moves. You need something that reduces the cone of light but keeps the focal plane aligned properly. There was a metabones speedbooster being tested for EOS-M at one point. I don't know what became of it. You can see it on YouTube. That would reduce some of the crop from crop mode. by 1.7. Fotodiox is toying with a 2.0 focal reducer (probably not for the EOS-M). That wouldn't cover the sensor for stills but would work great for crop mode.
Regarding crop factor. I have Sanyang 85 T1.5 lenses, to have a crop 1:1 (or close to it), I used focal reducer 0.75 ( 32mm dia ) from my astronomical telescope. Fits nicely to EOS M - just put as close to sensor as possible, results look promising. As soon as I make ring to secure reducer in the body of cam I will shoot test video.
Quote from: krisc on January 09, 2014, 11:04:48 AM
Regarding crop factor. I have Sanyang 85 T1.5 lenses, to have a crop 1:1 (or close to it), I used focal reducer 0.75 ( 32mm dia ) from my astronomical telescope. Fits nicely to EOS M - just put as close to sensor as possible, results look promising. As soon as I make ring to secure reducer in the body of cam I will shoot test video.
Which make/model focal reducer btw?
Quote from: spilledink on January 08, 2014, 06:09:48 PM
I get what you're talking about. You'd need a focal reducer like the Metabones Speedbooster or even the crappy Mitakon (that would probably be sharp enough in the center with the crop mode). Just moving the lens closer or farther away wouldn't give you what you want because the focal plane moves. You need something that reduces the cone of light but keeps the focal plane aligned properly. There was a metabones speedbooster being tested for EOS-M at one point. I don't know what became of it. You can see it on YouTube. That would reduce some of the crop from crop mode. by 1.7. Fotodiox is toying with a 2.0 focal reducer (probably not for the EOS-M). That wouldn't cover the sensor for stills but would work great for crop mode.
Right, that all makes perfect sense. Will keep my ear to the ground.
Quote from: feureau on January 09, 2014, 08:19:19 PM
Which make/model focal reducer btw?
Good question - Focal reducers are available in any astronomical shops, I have not seen branding on them just reducing factor. Two sizes 1.25" which is traditional size of focuser and larger, becoming more popilar for 2" focusers.
China makes millions of them .... I suppose some resellers just brand them .... marketing trick.
Is it possible to somehow move the AF box while in MF mode? I would like to select an area for magic zoom, but the box won't move when touching the screen.
I have TL Jan 14 2014 for the M loaded. Why does the display keep changing when I shoot raw. Most the time it starts off showing me the correct display for 720p Crop Mode On and then after a couple of seconds it goes wide full screen to not showing me the correct framing anymore?? I have tried Global Draw on and off and the problem persists with Global Draw on. Global Draw Off is not the correct framing. I thought Magic Zoom might be the problem, but I have it turned off.
Is there any programmatic way to set focus to infinity with the EOS-M (and 22mm EF-M lens) and lock it there when the camera is powered on?
I am trying to get the EOS-M with 22mm EF-M lens working in a wing-mounted system on a plane running the intervalometer function (to monitor a dam removal). I did my first flight in AF mode and the intervalometer stopped shortly after takeoff when the camera was over water - I think because AF lock wasn't obtained before the next intervalometer shot. I did the second flight in MF mode, but I have to power the camera off to mount it in the wing mount, and I can't turn the focus ring after powering it back on, so I was focused past infinity on that flight and all of the images are slightly blurry.
Basically I have to make the whole thing pretty bullet proof so contracted pilots can put the camera in the plane, press a button to turn it on (and hit the screen with two fingers if need be) and come back with pictures for me.
I fly successfully right now with a Canon D10 running CHDK, and I have a Lua script that focuses to infinity then locks the focus and takes a shot every 3 seconds. Ideally I'd like to do the same thing with the EOS M, but I don't know a reliable way to either focus to infinity every time the camera starts up, or set focus to infinity and lock it there forever. If need be I can get a different lens + adapter. But unfortunately the one thing I can't do is power up the camera, focus to infinity, then put it in the wing mount and start the intervalometer.
I am a geologist, not a photographer, so any help/hint is appreciated. Thank you all for your time,
-EDIT- after reading more about the intervalometer function, I am wondering if there is another way to do this that I am not realizing - I see that rather than shooting stills with an intervalometer I could shoot with a low FPS rate. If I could maintain autofocus this way it might work, but I don't know if it would dramatically shorten battery life. As is I get >1.5 hours, and I need at least 1 hr for the flight.
Alternatively, if there is a simple way to focus to infinity in AF then switch to MF I could do that. I thought at first that maybe the trap focus option with Intervalometer might work, but I see that I still need MF mode to do that. If somehow I could take the first picture at the horizon in AF and lock focus to that, I would be golden. And finally I didn't see if scripting is enabled yet in ML for the EOS-M, but if it is, I could try to do something with a script.
Andy
I don't think there is a good way to set AF, the LV af data is missing so things like trap focus or FF don't work, etc.
QuoteASSERT: !IS_ERROR( TryPostEvent( this->hTaskClass, this, EV_VD_INTERRUPT_EVF, NULL, 0 ) )
at ./Evf/EvfState.c:504, task ?
lv:1 mode:3
I've been getting this, I wonder if its from the task limit.
More likely from LiveView state object overrides.
if you can reproduce it, comment out some stuff in state-object.c and should work again; if so, you have a starting point for narrowing down.
Quote from: krisc on January 09, 2014, 11:04:48 AM
Regarding crop factor. I have Sanyang 85 T1.5 lenses, to have a crop 1:1 (or close to it), I used focal reducer 0.75 ( 32mm dia ) from my astronomical telescope. Fits nicely to EOS M - just put as close to sensor as possible, results look promising. As soon as I make ring to secure reducer in the body of cam I will shoot test video.
Test video is on line. Try http://vimeo.com/84560480
1%,
I used Jan 20, 2014 version of TL from bot fly and I saw MLV Sound in the first ML tab. I turned it on and tried the usual raw 720p24 crop mode recording and it hanged/crashed two times. I had to pull the battery each time to recover. It created two log files so I uploaded them hoping it may be of some help with ML/TL for the M.
https://www.transferbigfiles.com/6c36e40b-2e44-4dd9-ae04-ca565677263b/V6i2xCZ-9PuwWvUrxgLfrw2
Gary
Same thing as I got. Also get audio didn't stop errors. On 650D/700D they've had problems with sound because of the task limit and maybe that is why it has been so bad here and none of the patches work.
I am still getting the random display of framing when shooting rw 720p24 Crop Mode. We really need it to only show "and stay" on the correct framing. Like I mentioned before, sometimes it stays in the crop display and other times it jumps back to full LCD display after a second or two of recording. Is anyone else seeing this and what are other people doing if so?
GD turns off the overlays.
Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 04:50:22 AM
GD turns off the overlays.
Yes, I know. I am saying with GD on, I "sometimes" get it to stay in cropped display showing the correct framing for 720p24 Crop Mode. Sometimes it jumps out back to full view display which is not the correct framing for what I am recording. It is random... more often then not.
Edit-ok, I now see there are two Global Draw menu items. I have been talking about the GD on/off that is found in the Movie tab in the submenu for raww recording settings. I have always left the Globl Draw on in the the third tab, Overlays. It must be fighting as to which setting of GD to use?? Why is there two GD menu items?
I tried it and it does pop the overlay off for a second when its disabling the front buffer, after that it comes back. With GD on
Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 05:06:47 AM
I tried it and it does pop the overlay off for a second when its disabling the front buffer, after that it comes back. With GD on
i always have the opposite. I have Overlays GD always on. I also have raw submenu GD on. It starts recording showing a cropped frame, proper framing. After one or two seconds , it pops out to full screen display, wrong framing.
If I turn off the GD on the Overlay menu, then shows proper framing in the full screen area and stays that way. So, are we suppose to that Overlay GD off? Id so, then why is there two menus items for GD?
GD off in raw_rec/mlv_rec turns off GD only while recording. The menu item in the ML menu turns it off globally and until you turn it back on.
Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 05:19:55 AM
GD off in raw_rec/mlv_rec turns off GD only while recording. The menu item in the ML menu turns it off globally and until you turn it back on.
I understand what you are saying, 1%, but you are not addressing the fact that the display switches from correct crop display of 720 to full view 1080 when in fact I am recording 720. and this happens "after" a couple seconds of recording has gone by. and sometimes it doesn't change views. It shouldn't be changing from the correct view of 720 after recording has started a few seconds earlier.
Set Overlay GD to always on. Now setup raw recording at 720p24 Crop Mode and in that submenu for raw recording, set the GD to ON. Now record and you will see the display start off cropped in correctly for 720p and after two seconds it will pop out to full LCD frame showing 1080. If it doesn't pop out, try stopping the recording and start again and I assure you it will start doing it. If I had two cameras, I would shoot the M display showing this behavior and upload it. But I on;y have the M camera. BTW, I amonly talking about the video frame being displayed, not about any overlays.
Do you have the latest build? I'm testing this with 1080P 24 and nothing is coming off. In 3x nor 1x. Can you cell phone cam it?
Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 06:05:23 AM
Do you have the latest build? I'm testing this with 1080P 24 and nothing is coming off. In 3x nor 1x. Can you cell phone cam it?
I have the latest bot fly TL build. Test it as I just described on the M with raw 1280x720, 24 fps, crop mode. Turn both GD menu settings to on. First attempt usually works but the second attempt you will see it pop out full screen and continue on every other attempt to record.
Also, look at the framing you see when it shows full LCD view and it is not what you get when you shoot 720p. It actually shows a larger view than what you record.
ok, you mean in 5x. yes it does that because canon overlays love to come back and draw over ML stuff. I think it depends on if the canon front buffer has stayed disabled or not.
Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 06:31:19 AM
ok, you mean in 5x. yes it does that because canon overlays love to come back and draw over ML stuff. I think it depends on if the canon front buffer has stayed disabled or not.
That makes sense, then.
I have tried all combinations of the GD settings and only one shows the true framing of 720p, and that is both GD on. But then it does that switchings out full frame. So what can we do to see true 720p framing?
Edit, I just tried H264 normal video and it records 1080 and 720p as what we see framed. I then tried Crop Mode in H264 and that works correctly. Only raw recording has the problem.
The M can only do 1280x720p24 in raw, so we need a way to see the true framing when we shoot.
There is no display filter otherwise you'd have it easy. You can move the focus box and then who knows what the framing is.
Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 07:53:06 AM
There is no display filter otherwise you'd have it easy. You can move the focus box and then who knows what the framing is.
can you somehow make TL stop letting Canon change the display or should we think of somehow creating/using a 720p crop marks or a mask that shows proper framing? Just use GD off and then some way of masking that full display view down to a 720p true view?
Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 06:31:19 AM
ok, you mean in 5x. yes it does that because canon overlays love to come back and draw over ML stuff. I think it depends on if the canon front buffer has stayed disabled or not.
A tester said it does not happen in the main ML repo though..I would have a second look at how TL manages the redraw and the frontbuffer for the EOSM
It could be re-enabling it from the 1/2 shutter, will have to look/compare with main.
Help,
So admittedly I am new to ML and TL. I was told by a friend how awesome the builds are and how well they work for the EOSM. Unfortunately, I came across a snag. After installing the latest build from Jan 22, my camera would no longer take stills or video with a manual lens attached. Even when I re-attached the original lens (Canon 18-55mm) it would not take still photos, but would take video. If I tried using the screen one click shoot mode, it locked the camera up.
After going back and forth several times of "re-installing the 2.02 firmware (I was never prompted to uninstall ML(TL)) and doing low-level and high level card re-formats, I think ML has been uninstalled. For the most part the camera is fully functional, no ML OSD (I never got the menu list browser) However, I still cannot use my manual lens in either still photos or video.
Have I fully uninstalled the ML firmware? If not how can I get it off, and gain back full usage of my EOSM? I have a shoot this weekend, and I really need to use the prime lens.
Thank You
Quote from: tmorse.video on January 23, 2014, 09:35:06 AM
Help,
So admittedly I am new to ML and TL. I was told by a friend how awesome the builds are and how well they work for the EOSM. Unfortunately, I came across a snag. After installing the latest build from Jan 22, my camera would no longer take stills or video with a manual lens attached. Even when I re-attached the original lens (Canon 18-55mm) it would not take still photos, but would take video. If I tried using the screen one click shoot mode, it locked the camera up.
After going back and forth several times of "re-installing the 2.02 firmware (I was never prompted to uninstall ML(TL)) and doing low-level and high level card re-formats, I think ML has been uninstalled. For the most part the camera is fully functional, no ML OSD (I never got the menu list browser) However, I still cannot use my manual lens in either still photos or video.
Have I fully uninstalled the ML firmware? If not how can I get it off, and gain back full usage of my EOSM? I have a shoot this weekend, and I really need to use the prime lens.
Thank You
sounds like you have the infamous shutterbug that has been talked about a lot here. There are three workarounds. You can find a lot out in the shutterbug thread.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8347.new#new
you have a manual lens, so that has me confused a little. But try the three workarounds.
1-untwist the lens slightly and then twist it back on
2-power off the camera and then quickly back on in a second before the red led flashes
3-my method is to reformat the camera in Canon's menus and do not tap the screen like it says. That way the ML files stay on the camera/card. If you tap the screen before hitting OK, then it will format and erase all the ML files.
I hope this works for you.
Sometimes ML changes Canon firmware settings, like Audio for H.264. It may have turned off "shoot w/o lens", so check that. Also, if all that fails, re-set all options in the config menu, change from default to shoot w/o lens, then try again.
Also, I now bring an extra card for shooting still normally with the EOS-M (though haven't had much time for that lately). Anyway, make sure you have another card with you at event without ML on it for still shooting.
Quote from: maxotics on January 23, 2014, 04:00:29 PM
Sometimes ML changes Canon firmware settings, like Audio for H.264. It may have turned off "shoot w/o lens", so check that. Also, if all that fails, re-set all options in the config menu, change from default to shoot w/o lens, then try again.
Thanks Everyone. I feel a little stupid now. I had never had to set the "Shoot w/o lens" setting. It must have come with it already enabled. Once I found the setting, re-enabled it, and re-installed ML everything works great! Now just to figure out how everything works!
I also, purchased a new SanDisk SDXC Pro card (32GB on sale at Best Buy for $59!!!) JIC it was the card issue as listed in the "shutterbug" forum. So i'll use my Microcenter (C10) cards for stills.
Again, Thank you! :D
I have also encountered the shutter bug with the 11-22 lens, but was able to reset by clearing all camera settings in the "wrench" menu. I've also had some other freezes, camera not switching on, just blinking, etc. Removing the battery has helped - so far - phew!
I hope the EOS-M build will be back soon in a more stable incarnation; it's missing from the drop-down menu at the moment.
I really need the video 3x crop, I want to use my 4mm (yes, only four mm!) C-mount lens! ;)
Quote from: Janke on January 24, 2014, 02:40:30 PM
I have also encountered the shutter bug with the 11-22 lens
Have you shot any 720p RAW with that lens in crop mode? Or have you seen any video on Vimeo or Youtube that has? It looks like a killer lens with IS. Can't get it here in the States, at least not inexpensively.
I have a BMPCC, which is an amazing camera. I feel for you if you don't have that option. The EOS-M has so much potentials there just aren't enough devs to get it stable. I wish we could clone 1%, or A1ex with an EOS-M brain ;)
No, I haven't shot RAW, only h.264.
But the 11-22 looks great even in full-size 18 Mpix stills - runs rings around my Tamron 10-24mm!
I'm satisfied with the h.264 quality of the T2i and the M, anything I shoot commercially will be shown in SD, anyway...
Hello! I have a couple questions for 1% or anyone who can answer them.
1. Where can i find nightly builds for eos m (if there are no nightly then where can i find latest.)
2. Could you be able to code a hack that allows you to use remote shooting (using computer as Control)
3. Any way to shoot slightly higher res like 1440p (in h.264) just so i can do cuts where there is an instant zoom without actually zooming.
4. And lastly how do i get the raw_rec files and what is the max resolution for raw?
Thanks in advance.
MobFactory
Quote from: MobFactory on January 26, 2014, 04:56:50 PM
Hello! I have a couple questions for 1% or anyone who can answer them.
1. Where can i find nightly builds for eos m (if there are no nightly then where can i find latest.)
2. Could you be able to code a hack that allows you to use remote shooting (using computer as Control)
3. Any way to shoot slightly higher res like 1440p (in h.264) just so i can do cuts where there is an instant zoom without actually zooming.
4. And lastly how do i get the raw_rec files and what is the max resolution for raw?
Thanks in advance.
MobFactory
1- I have used TL daily builds since last July without any problems. Jerry has a website that provides easy downloads for us.
http://ml.bot-fly.com/
2- I am not aware of any way to control the M remotely. I asked a long time ago about using USB and the camera does not provide anyway to do it even using the EOS Utility app.
3- I only know of 1080p30 as the max for shooting H.264.
4- There is a long workflow to shooting raw and then editing in post. I suggest you read up first and do some searching on the topic. Try using Max's EOS-M Shooters Guide.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82955#msg82955
1280x720 16x9 24fps Crop Mode on is the max that most of us use. You can get up to 1728 H rez, but you would have a very short Vertical rez being forced to use something like a 4:1 ratio. So, 720p24 16x9 is the most/max usable. The M is limited by the card writer having a max average speed of 37 Mbs, even if we use memory cards rated higher than 30Mbs. Many of us use the Sandisk 45Mbs card. You will waste money buying faster cards. So, we can't get higher rez video like the 5DM3, which can do 1080p24 (or higher) using 90 Mbs or more to CF cards. And they also have audio working in raw mode. There is no audio on the M when shooting raw.
Maybe 1% or some others can reply to add or correct me.
You're pretty much right. You can do short bursts larger than 720P but it all depends on how long your takes are and how much memory you free up.
So largest res is probably 5x mode + multi shot NR.
Thanks! I just used the raw rec on 720p but im confused on why the image is stretched. Anyway i converted the video and brought them onto premiere pro cc but there is allot of aliasing for some reason and there is something wrong with the horizontal pixels as 1/2 of them lag behind the rest. Also there are random blue stripes on the building. Any ideas on how to fix?
[EDIT]
My gawd youtube is bad at compressing you cant see the horizontal pixel problem... Here's an image:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4df07b3127ccef560a31e89b900000030O00Act3Ddq1btm4Pbz4E/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00706755787920140126192950238.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Quote from: MobFactory on January 26, 2014, 08:34:58 PM
Thanks! I just used the raw rec on 720p but im confused on why the image is stretched. Anyway i converted the video and brought them onto premiere pro cc but there is allot of aliasing for some reason and there is something wrong with the horizontal pixels as 1/2 of them lag behind the rest. Also there are random blue stripes on the building. Any ideas on how to fix?
[EDIT]
My gawd youtube is bad at compressing you cant see the horizontal pixel problem... Here's an image:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4df07b3127ccef560a31e89b900000030O00Act3Ddq1btm4Pbz4E/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00706755787920140126192950238.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
if you do not turn on crop mode in the raw settings menu, it will need to be scaled 166% in Height in your NLE post work. You also get moire and aliasing in non crop mode, so use crop mode if you don;t mind losing the wide angle and it will not have aliasing and moire. Same is true for shooting H,264 with Crop Mode On in the Raw settings submenu.
Read the Guide I linked for you. There is more to just setting the camera and shooting. Expose to the right (ETTR) and use higher ISO settings to get the best DR and lower noise. You need to extract the DNG files and possibly use PDR. A first grade will be needed on the raw files with something like ACR. Then you need to scale height if you don't use crop and you need a noise filter since the raw is very noisy. I like the Neat Video filter. And expose to the right and use ISO to get the best DR and lower noise.
You can sometimes avoid moire and aliasing by focusing further back in the scene do the building is not tack sharp in focus. Or something closer in front of the building. Or, use Crop Mode On.
Quote from: andyroo on January 16, 2014, 03:29:49 AM
Is there any programmatic way to set focus to infinity with the EOS-M (and 22mm EF-M lens) and lock it there when the camera is powered on?
FYI my workaround for this was to buy the EF-EOS M adapter and a 40mm pancake. Then I just taped my lens after focusing to infinity. Hopefully the temp changes from having the camera on a wing won't need me to re-focus up on a mountain somewhere after leaving the camera outside for a couple hours...
I would have gone with AF but I tried that and the intervalometer died right as the plane got to where I cared about. Although I think that might have been due to the auto-rotate interfering. Not sure. It was that or AF.
Posting this because I had a few PMs about aerial imagery with the EOS M. Hope it's not off-topic.
Hi there,
I'm looking forward to install Tragic Lantern on my EOS M.
Do i need to first install the ML firmware for this or can I install TL right away? I didn't find any TL install instructions so I assume the procedure is the same as ML.
Thanks!
Quote from: evildream_pt on January 31, 2014, 12:12:21 AM
Hi there,
I'm looking forward to install Tragic Lantern on my EOS M.
Do i need to first install the ML firmware for this or can I install TL right away? I didn't find any TL install instructions so I assume the procedure is the same as ML.
Thanks!
welcome to the forum. you do need to run the firmware if it is the first time for TL or ML. You can find good info on how to do things at Max's EOS-M Shooters Guide.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82955#msg82955
Gary
Does TL for the EOS-M offer control of GOP, slice and bit rate, as TL1 does for the 600D?
Where can I find Tragic Lantern EOS-m2?
Or not yet?
Quote from: tupp on January 31, 2014, 07:47:04 AM
Does TL for the EOS-M offer control of GOP, slice and bit rate, as TL1 does for the 600D?
you can find submenus by tapping the screen once on the main menu item. You go to the Movie settings and at the top it says CBR 1x. Tap on that once and then the submenus show and all the settings are there.
Quote from: Siberia on January 31, 2014, 09:01:52 AM
Where can I find Tragic Lantern EOS-m2?
Or not yet?
http://tl.bot-fly.com/
Quote from: gary2013 on January 31, 2014, 07:06:43 PM
you can find submenus by tapping the screen once on the main menu item. You go to the Movie settings and at the top it says CBR 1x. Tap on that once and then the submenus show and all the settings are there.
Great! So, GOP control is found in the submenus?
And these settings are available in the recent TL builds, right?
Thanks!
Quote from: gary2013 on January 31, 2014, 07:07:40 PM
http://tl.bot-fly.com/
Not EOS-M, need to EOS-M2 Firmware 1.0.2
EOS-M Firmware 2.0.2 does not work with the EOS-M2: (
No dev has an eos-m2 ... And since it's Asia only I don't see it being supported any time soon. Unless you are willing to do it yourself that is
Thank you. It is a pity that no ..
BRACKETING BUG
Hi Guys,
I tried to find as much as possible here on forum about bracketing problem. After hours of no appropriate answer I made some testing.
I´m using eos M with 202 firmware and TL and for comparison eos 600d with ML.
I have teste bracketing with 5,7,9 pics, different ISO, manual mode, different times, different +- ev increments.
Reinstalling, reseting setting, different lenses... Nothing helped.
Result was, that on 600d everything was fine, but M behave unexpected, result are approximately 50:50 right:confusing.
Sample of results from M:
1, good one: 7pictures +-2eV: times 1/60,1/15,1/4,1",4",15",64"
2, total bad: 7pictures +-2eV: times: 1/80,1/20,0"8 - 3 times! and 13"
Any advise, any helps? Thanks!
M.
Quote from: nanomad on February 01, 2014, 09:25:13 AM
No dev has an eos-m2 ... And since it's Asia only I don't see it being supported any time soon. Unless you are willing to do it yourself that is
I've been thinking of getting one. If I could somehow dump the firmware, what are the chance that someone would try to peek into it?
Hey y'all been a while since i checked up on EOM M TL. Quick question is RAW still squished in non-crop mode?
Quote from: handbanana on February 05, 2014, 11:44:23 PM
Hey y'all been a while since i checked up on EOM M TL. Quick question is RAW still squished in non-crop mode?
Last I used it was about a month ago: Yes still squished.
Its only unsquished in crop mode or 5x/10x
You developers have done a fantastic job with Magic Lantern!
I have a feature request...
It would be really nice if it would be possible to turn of the screen (but still being able to shoot). (That would make EOS M + 22/2.0 a great street photography camera. You could keep the camera ready for hours without lighting up the screen and still be ready to take a photo at any time...)
Ok, a few days ago I noticed something weird with my TL. If I don't use fps override my non-crop mode video always shows 29.9, but if I use crop-mode, it shows whatever I selected through the Canon menu. I don't remember this being a problem before and I'm not sure if TL is switching the fps,but not showing it correctly, or just ignoring the Canon menu in non-crop mode. I didn't find this mentioned in the forum before, sorry if it was and I missed it.
Quote from: BE on February 07, 2014, 09:53:33 PM
You developers have done a fantastic job with Magic Lantern!
I have a feature request...
It would be really nice if it would be possible to turn of the screen (but still being able to shoot). (That would make EOS M + 22/2.0 a great street photography camera. You could keep the camera ready for hours without lighting up the screen and still be ready to take a photo at any time...)
Try attaching a HDMI cable to its slot. That will turn of the screen (maybe you need something on the other end of the cable, I used Zacuto EVF). Or maybe somebody can program the camera believe, that there is HDMI plug inserted?
Quotedon't use fps override my non-crop mode video always shows 29.9, but if I use crop-mode, it shows whatever I selected through the Canon menu
Thats how it works.
QuoteThats how it works.
So there's no other way to adjust frame rate except FPS override in non-crop mode? But doesn't it disable audio? It's so weird that I only now notice it...
Well the rate goes to the correct 24fps when recording H264... but that won't really help anyone. The only other thing would be to hack live view to always act like its recording and then you get native FPS, haven't found a way to do that thus far.
Thank you for the explanation. :)
Hi can anyone please help.
Whenever I load the latest TL EOS M release, I have to disable the 'dot_tune.mo' module else there are corrupt messages on the camera screen.
What is the dot_tune.mo supposed to be for and why does it corrupt the screen. Is this is bug.
Its a module you can't use on M. AF micro adjustments.
Read about it. Thanks. Also, saw the youtube video of the person explaining the concept and setup. Will try it on my 5D3 someday.
Quote from: kansalainen on February 10, 2014, 04:54:04 PM
Try attaching a HDMI cable to its slot. That will turn of the screen (maybe you need something on the other end of the cable, I used Zacuto EVF). Or maybe somebody can program the camera believe, that there is HDMI plug inserted?
Brilliant suggestion! I never thought of using my Zacuto this way to conserve power and all the benefits.
Using the latest build but keep getting the error :Err 70: An error prevent shooting. Turn the camera off and on again or re-install the battery." Done all this but the problem persists. Goes away only if I pull the SD card out of the card slot.
I am using the EOS M with the latest build (10 Feb 2014 - Tragic Lantern).
Please advise and help. The EOS M is my last connect with the ML world, since I upgraded the Canon firmware on my 5D3 to version 1.2.3 and therefore cannot use ML with my 5D3 anymore. The EOS M is my only hope for now.
Quote from: kansalainen on February 10, 2014, 04:54:04 PM
Try attaching a HDMI cable to its slot. That will turn of the screen (maybe you need something on the other end of the cable, I used Zacuto EVF). Or maybe somebody can program the camera believe, that there is HDMI plug inserted?
Ah, thanks for this idea! I will try it as soon as I find a mini HDMI plug somewhere...
Quote from: lonelyspeck on November 08, 2013, 01:07:46 AM
Hey guys,
I've been following this thread since the beginning and I've been using the Tragic Lantern nightlies on http://tl.bot-fly.com/
As of this post, I'm using the Nov 07 Build. My interest in ML for the EOSM is almost exclusively for enabling time lapse creation. In particular, I'm interested in using the EOSM for day to night time lapse using the the "Flicker Free ETTR Timelapse Workflow" here: (http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5705.0). It's not written for the EOSM but in theory it should work the same.
Auto ETTR works OK for the most part on the EOSM but it hunts for the proper exposure a lot. Tweaking the minimum shutter speed or SNR limits will usually allow you to get it to hit the right exposure but it's usually by trial and error. It's also much slower to converge than Auto ETTR on my 6D (1%'s Oct 14 1.1.3 Build) Once the exposure converges, ETTR on the EOSM seems to do what it is supposed to do for non time lapse shooting (e.g. pressing the shutter button manually with your finger).
The Problem: The bigger issue comes up when I try to use Auto ETTR in combination with the ML intervalometer (Tested with 10-30 second intervals). Once the intervalometer is enabled, Auto ETTR no longer functions. The exposure will remain the same (at whatever it started with) throughout the time lapse sequence, regardless of any changes in light. For example, if Auto ETTR picks ISO 100, 1/125 @ f/16 for the first exposure in bright sunlight, it will remain at that exposure throughout sunset and into night. I've also tried testing this using a variable ND filter to simulate the ambient light change.
I have tested this problem extensively and on various builds and the behavior is always the same when the intervalometer is enabled. I've also tried the other Auto ETTR settings other than Always On such as Auto Snap and even Half S DblClck and manually double pressing the shutter half-way between intervals to try to get it to start ETTRing but it doesn't do anything; it's as if Auto ETTR is disabled.
Any thoughts?
If Auto ETTR worked with the intervalometer, the EOSM would be the ultimate compact timelapse machine.
Any news on this? I'm having the same problem and it works fine on my 6D. I want to use the M as a secondary camera when shooting timelapses. I'm willing to test and send logs!
Firmware: 12 Feb 2014
Size: 1152X648
Camera: EOSM
Mode: Crop/ Uncrop
Works fine without frame skipping.
It seems that Tragic Lantern needs more developers! I have been a professional programmer for 10 years working with embedded software, often in C. I know it is kind of impossible to answer, but what is your guess - how many hours does it typically take from start to being somewhat productive in Tragic Lantern?
Quote from: BE on February 13, 2014, 11:51:41 PM
It seems that Tragic Lantern needs more developers! I have been a professional programmer for 10 years working with embedded software, often in C. I know it is kind of impossible to answer, but what is your guess - how many hours does it typically take from start to being somewhat productive in Tragic Lantern?
Tragic Lantern doesn't need any developers, it's just 1%'s fork.
Magic Lantern needs developers and needs the developer of Tragic Lantern (1%) to start contributing to the main project rather than just maintaining his own fork.
You should not contribute to the fracturing of this community! However, if you'd like to backport stuff from TL to ML and then start maintaining it, I'm sure that would be more than welcome. Someone had started working on this, but he dropped off the map and the EOSM is now 'unmaintained' again.
Heh, not just my stuff. All of ML needs more developers. Took a few months to get familiar with everything in ML source and a decent portion of the firmware, at least for me....
Only a few people stepped up to port the already done stuff into ML-Main, much less develop new features.
QuoteTragic Lantern (1%) to start contributing to the main project rather than just maintaining his own fork
its all there in the source, come on. It can't ALL be up to a1ex, g3gg0, nanomad and me.
Mlv sound + mlv raw not working on EOS M. Error "thread failed to start" / "1skipped". Camera hangs.
Settings:
Mlv snd ON.
raw video (mlv) ON, 1088x436
Rest all TL default setting.
Edit: okay w/o mlv snd OFF upto 1152x462.
Okay with Raw (non-mlv)
Edit: can anything be done or is it lost hope. I don't have ML on my 5dm3 anymore since I need the hdmi view to use with my zacuto evf :(
Yea, the sound probably won't work yet because of the task limit + freeziness of the asif. I can get like 1 wav ever at best and then a hang.
I did just duplicate the intervalometer not working with ETTR and ETTR getting stuck going back and forth.. the problem is that there is no non live view mode and ettr expects there to be one.. it doesn't seem to adjust at all in QR mode. Just pre-QR in LV.
Quote from: dmilligan on February 14, 2014, 12:21:03 AM
Tragic Lantern doesn't need any developers, it's just 1%'s fork. Magic Lantern needs developers and needs the developer of Tragic Lantern (1%) to start contributing to the main project rather than just maintaining his own fork. You should not contribute to the fracturing of this community! However, if you'd like to backport stuff from TL to ML and then start maintaining it, I'm sure that would be more than welcome. Someone had started working on this, but he dropped off the map and the EOSM is now 'unmaintained' again.
+1000
I tracked down this bug today...
Where are the values of the Prop_shooting_mode defined?
M is not being picked up correctly... both of the shooting mode props are 3
P is 0
TV is 1
AE is 2
M is 3
This is why Auto ETTR is broken... also Audio remote shot works the same way as 700D et all.
heh, this matches other cameras and it works fine in AE/TV... wtf
Quote from: 1% on February 14, 2014, 07:30:57 AM
I tracked down this bug today...
Where are the values of the Prop_shooting_mode defined?
M is not being picked up correctly... both of the shooting mode props are 3
P is 0
TV is 1
AE is 2
M is 3
This is why Auto ETTR is broken... also Audio remote shot works the same way as 700D et all.
heh, this matches other cameras and it works fine in AE/TV... wtf
This is just a wild guess, but maybe it's always "3" because the EOS M chooses the mode in software and the hardware switch only has Auto, Manual and Video positions?
No, it matches... 6D and others. And everything would "appear" to be detected correctly. Just ETTR and others won't fire. In P/AV/TV you even see ETTR marks/adjustments on the QR screen... the work around for a manual lens is just to use TV mode. For a normal one it will have to be fixed. I'm just kind of confused where to start. Already looked at dedicated movie mode sections and some of the take a pic stuff.
Quote from: Canon eos m on February 14, 2014, 02:08:50 AM
Mlv sound + mlv raw not working on EOS M. Error "thread failed to start" / "1skipped". Camera hangs.
Settings:
Mlv snd ON.
raw video (mlv) ON, 1088x436
Rest all TL default setting.
Edit: okay w/o mlv snd OFF upto 1152x462.
Okay with Raw (non-mlv)
Edit: can anything be done or is it lost hope. I don't have ML on my 5dm3 anymore since I need the hdmi view to use with my zacuto evf :(
Same issues with 13 Feb build
Its not lost but has issues. MLV_SND not going to work here yet.
Is 50p video recording possible? Would it be possible in the future?
It should be.. you can almost get the fps all the way there too in crop mode. The data rate and memory is what is holding it back mainly and that part isn't fixable.
Hello I was wondering if you could reactivate the remote shooting function through this hack. Ive read up on it and apparently its just a purposefully crippled 650d firmware. Would there be a way for you to make it think it is a 650d so eos utility will accept it? Or any way really to get remote shooting to work. If not do you know another way to load cinestyle?
Anybody can tell me how to disable Tragic Lantern at boot time? (i know how to do this in ML 2.3 on a Canon EOS 5 MkII, but on the EOS M?) In case of emergency, you might wan to switch back to the Canon's default without needing to swap cards.
I notice using EOS-M with intervalometer function that when in AF, the intervalometer will sometimes freeze when brightness shifts suddenly, but when in MF, it works fine.
I am trying to use TL with the EOS-M in an aircraft to shoot aerials at 3 sec intervals from a wing-mounted camera. I can't use MF because the camera cools off too much during flight so the focus to infinity is different in-flight than it is when I mount the camera. I have tried the intervalometer with the 40mm lens and adapter and 22mm pancake and in both cases MF works reliably but AF sometimes quits when exposed to rapid dark/light changes at the wrong time (like when a plane is banking and goes from ground to sky view). I simulate by pointing at ground/under desk, then at sky/light.
Any suggestions?
1%, today's build of TL for the M does not allow MLV recording. Raw recording does work as usual. same settings I always use.720p24 crop mode all audio off 16x9 global draw on, MLV starts in red and says 1 line skipped and thread failed to satrt. hangs camera requiring battery pull.
Edit-Update. after i unloaded the crypt module, I was able to record MLV. Start and then Stop recording. BUT, then I could not access TL anymore with the usual two finger swipe. or, power off the camera. pushing power off pops up "Busy". i had to pull the battery.
ok, i'll give it a go.. a bunch went in today from ML
ok, seems to be working after the push today.
Quote from: 1% on February 14, 2014, 12:26:37 AM
Heh, not just my stuff. All of ML needs more developers. Took a few months to get familiar with everything in ML source and a decent portion of the firmware, at least for me....
Only a few people stepped up to port the already done stuff into ML-Main, much less develop new features.
its all there in the source, come on. It can't ALL be up to a1ex, g3gg0, nanomad and me.
I would kill to be able to contribute. I forked the repo and all and managed to get it to compile... most of the time. But looking at the code baffles me. Which one should I start with?
Hi guys, new M TL user here. Just a thing that seemed wrong to me in the faq for the uninstall process (I didn't know where to write this), instructions say:
—
4. MENU, then First Wrench, then Format Card - Don't tap screen to format card (keeping ML). Select and press OK
5. Goto last wrench, Update Firmware, pick latest version, SET (now that card's been formatted, it has no ML so camera will see nothing, and look to revert to factory boot)
6. GREEN ML screen should come up about BOOKDISK flag
—
But when I did point 4., there was no more the .fir file in the card, so the camera didn't perform the firmware upgrade where I could deactivate the boot flag.
Solution was to copy again the files as for the first installation and turning the knob at green screen as usual. Did I something wrong or are the instructions a bit off?
Thanks and keep up the good work. Wish I could help but apart being a graphic designer I don't know how.
QuoteBut looking at the code baffles me. Which one should I start with?
Start with looking at features that don't work the way you want. Its going to take a while to get familiar with it and how the cameras work. If you're new to C++ there is also that.
Quote from: 1% on February 23, 2014, 06:49:10 PM
Start with looking at features that don't work the way you want. Its going to take a while to get familiar with it and how the cameras work. If you're new to C++ there is also that.
Thanks!
Btw, I was shooting pics for panoramic stitching, and found that under certain settings, the EOS-M can take pictures without the screen blanking out.
The settings I find reproducible, but not sure which factor actually influence this:
- EF-M 22mm lens (I can't reproduce this with the EF to EF-M canon mount adapter)
- Servo AF on
- Continuous shooting on
- Custom function IV (page 5): option 2 - AF/AF lock, no AE lock on.
- prefocus, then press and hold the asterisk button, and shoot away
The first one or two frames would sometimes blank out but the rest of the pics it won't blank out.
I wonder if this can be investigated to always make the screen not blank out when shooting pics?
Quote from: 1% on February 22, 2014, 03:11:38 AM
ok, i'll give it a go.. a bunch went in today from ML
ok, seems to be working after the push today.
same thing with TL Feb 23 build. No MLV recording, but RAW will record as usual. Same message at start of MLV recording then it hangs the camera. "Threads failed to start"
Quote from: 1% on February 22, 2014, 03:11:38 AM
ok, i'll give it a go.. a bunch went in today from ML
ok, seems to be working after the push today.
MLV Rec is now working again in TL Feb 24.
1%,
MLV Rec does not work again using the latest TL Feb 25.
message says Threads failed to start and the camera hangs requiring a reboot. Sometimes a battery pull is needed.
I unloaded the crypt mo and then MLV Rec worked. We also still need to not load the dot tune module for the camera to work.
A while ago someone posted a demo of their ML'd camera recording more than 30 min of video. The guy explained that he managed this by holding the timer counter so that it never reached 30 min. And IIRC posted some code snippets. But I can't seem to find the post. Anyone remember this? Thinking of building a module for this. If I could find the stubs, I guess...?
(this is completely different method than the one explored in the "limits be gone" thread)
QuoteI unloaded the crypt mo and then MLV Rec worked. We also still need to not load the dot tune module for the camera to work.
Of course if encryption is on it will take more memory and try to encrypt anything you write to the card. Dot tune you don't load because there are no adjustments for focus in EOSM.
For the 30 minutes... it counts to 1799 frames, its not based on time. Hence you can FPS override and record for hours.
Quote from: 1% on February 26, 2014, 06:50:40 PM
Of course if encryption is on it will take more memory and try to encrypt anything you write to the card. Dot tune you don't load because there are no adjustments for focus in EOSM.
then that says something for RAW over MLV since RAW always recorded when MLV choked. [ was in the habit of installing all the modules instead of loading just a few modules. I thought for testing purposes the camera should work with all modules loaded.
You should be able to load a lot... but its like autoexpo + ettr, they're going to fight.
Quote from: 1% on February 26, 2014, 06:50:40 PM
For the 30 minutes... it counts to 1799 frames, its not based on time. Hence you can FPS override and record for hours.
Is it possible to make sure the count doesn't reach 1799? So we can record without lowering the FPS? Please? :3
Speaking of long duration filming, wasn't there an option to turn off the liveview on ML? Say, you turn on low fps like, 5 sec per frame, and you leave it and it will turn off the live view after a few secs.
Also, about liveviews: did you check the thing I said about under certain settings, liveview does not blank out if you take pics?
Thanks beforehand
I haven't been able to reproduce that but it would be cool.
I've tried to patch the 1799 on a bunch of cameras and its in many places + still stops. There is some counter for sound too. It takes too long to test this whole thing. I think maybe trying it on 50D with the simplest code and tying to make it stop early from the counter might be the way to go.. but there is no way as many cache hacks as are required are going to make it into main.
There are 119 references to "1799" in the EOSM firmware... of those maybe 1/2 are a dword
Hey 1% By any chance do you know a way of enabling Eos Utility on the m. It was blocked by canon even though the usb can eadily support it. Is there a way to make this work or is it coming soon on TL?
its not there so there is no way to re-enable it. instead of a PTP remote control mode they added a mass storage mode like a phone/tablet would have.
It might be interesting to see where stuff is missing via cross referencing a 650D. Its really cruel too as this camera would be great for an installation/helicopter/etc
Quote from: 1% on March 02, 2014, 01:38:19 AM
its not there so there is no way to re-enable it. instead of a PTP remote control mode they added a mass storage mode like a phone/tablet would have.
It might be interesting to see where stuff is missing via cross referencing a 650D. Its really cruel too as this camera would be great for an installation/helicopter/etc
Is there any alternative? an accessory that allows me to use it on my computer?
Quote from: 1% on March 01, 2014, 05:49:21 PM
I haven't been able to reproduce that but it would be cool.
I just tested it again. Restored my EOS-M to factory setting and set these:
- Servo AF on
- Continuous shooting on
- Custom function IV (page 5): option 2 - AF/AF lock, no AE lock on.
On my EF-M 22mm. (can't seem to reproduce on my other lenses)
Turns out, even if you hold the asterisk down and you just hit the shutter once, it will still blank out. But if you hold the asterisk button, and hit the shutter repeatedly quickly, it will not blank out. Demo: http://youtu.be/WxokUSoAcZk
Quote from: 1% on March 01, 2014, 05:49:21 PM
I've tried to patch the 1799 on a bunch of cameras and its in many places + still stops. There is some counter for sound too. It takes too long to test this whole thing. I think maybe trying it on 50D with the simplest code and tying to make it stop early from the counter might be the way to go.. but there is no way as many cache hacks as are required are going to make it into main.
There are 119 references to "1799" in the EOSM firmware... of those maybe 1/2 are a dword
Damn, that's a lot of 1799 :(
I wish I can find it but I distinctly remember a post from someone who got this working. The guy even posted a video.
Still looks like it blanks out in that video.
Quote from: 1% on March 02, 2014, 05:36:34 PM
Still looks like it blanks out in that video.
I'll get a better video. If you hit the shutter and let go, it'll still blank out. But if you hit the shutter repeatedly it'll just freeze for like, 1/4th of a second and the feed would continue until you hit the shutter again.
On other settings, you can't hit the shutter again so quickly, it'll not shoot until it blanks out and and recycles.
EDIT:
Continuous feed until it finally blanks out at the end: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wA-UC1Ou-Tg
Note: it's not really obvious on that video, but the live view keeps updating after every shot.
Regular behavior: immediately blanks out after every shot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZA5fa9CWps
greetings!
I've been having some errors while playing with MLV which generated a handful of crashlogs. I'm just recording and trying to focus with the * key. It only focuses once until I stop and start a new clip. Error occurs when I stop recording. Error logs are here: http://tl.bot-fly.com/misc/crashes
THAAAANKS =D
Yup, I noticed that too. And I was going to actually block focusing while recording for this reason. I don't remember if it worked without "small hacks" but I think it crashes out on me every time I af + raw.
Hi! Sorry its me again. The reason i needed eos utility was to install cinestyle. Do you know any other way to install it. I really need a flatter image and with my 550d its all on eos utility.
Thanks in advance
Me again
I think you can install the picture styles with it, just use a newer eos utility. Thats about all it can do.
Hi MobFactory,
I suppose you are trying to install the Technicolor CineStyle profile. I just got a new EOS-M and utility software isn't included on the CD. You can download the updater from the Canon website but if you don't have the utility already installed it won't do anything.
I've got a Mac and this worked for me:
http://vimeo.com/72683307
Here are the instructions for Windows:
http://youtu.be/XAB80Syx7Kw
It worked for me and I was able to install CineStyle. Make sure you check out the Technicolor documentation--I had to adjust the saturation after the install:
Sharpness: 0
Contrast: -4
Saturation: -2
Color Tone: 0
ISO: a multiple of the camera's native ISO
(i.e. a multiple of 100 or 160 depending on the camera)
I had no problem using it with Magic (Tragic) Lantern though I doubt it will do anything for you if you're shooting raw.
Quote from: jerrykil on March 03, 2014, 04:09:02 PM
greetings!
I've been having some errors while playing with MLV which generated a handful of crashlogs. I'm just recording and trying to focus with the * key. It only focuses once until I stop and start a new clip. Error occurs when I stop recording. Error logs are here: http://tl.bot-fly.com/misc/crashes
THAAAANKS =D
I have always crashed using any build since last July if I try to autofucus when shooting raw.
what is the native iso for the M?
Hi,
I am planning to do some interviews with my EOS M in two weeks, ... I know it's an old and open question but is there any chance that the Audio Monitoring functionality will be there soon? If not, any suggestion/link on how to avoid unwanted mic/cable noise in the first place will be very much appreciated...
Thanks!
p
Quote from: gary2013 on March 04, 2014, 06:54:34 AM
what is the native iso for the M?
Good question! I've heard it also called base ISO. Any developers or Canon technicians out there with the answer?
Quote from: dfort on March 04, 2014, 05:03:23 PM
Good question! I've heard it also called base ISO. Any developers or Canon technicians out there with the answer?
Yeah. The eos m does not have amazing iso performance so knowing the base iso would help
Hey sorry but i tried upgrading but when i plug in my eos m nothing on the menu is clickable on eos utility except monitor folder. How can i install cinestyle?
You can get the highest analog ISO from dual_iso... its like 3200. Look at the ISO research thread and maybe try some of the research tools if you want to get into the nitty gritty.
Quote from: MobFactory on March 04, 2014, 06:45:08 PM
Hey sorry but i tried upgrading but when i plug in my eos m nothing on the menu is clickable on eos utility except monitor folder. How can i install Cinestyle?
Maybe you did not follow the steps or you do not have the camera in the Manual Picture Mode.
Here are the steps for anyone that needs to know. Make sure the camera is off and not plugged into the USB. Make sure the camera is set to Picture Mode set to Manual, not Video Mode. It is the dial on the top of the camera and it has three positions. You want the middle position. Now plug the USB cable into the computer and then the camera. Then turn the camera on and your computer will show it is connected.
Now go to the EOS Utility Main Page and select Camera Settings. Then select Register Picture Style File. From that point it is obvious. you have three tabs on top for the three slots of picture styles in the camera. You load each new picture style, one at a time, into User Def 1 or 2 or 3. Click the button to the right to navigate to where you have the Cinestyle file saved on your hard drive. WAIT until it is done loading. Then do User Def 2 and 3 if you want to load anymore styles. Remember to wait for each User Def to finish loading. When it is all done, turn the camera off and then unplug the USB cable. Now your picture styles will be available on the camera.
I was checking the Shutter Count on my M. It showed 2K and then shutter counts and LV actuation. Then, what is the correct shutter counts. What is LV actuation ?
Quote from: samacochan on March 05, 2014, 04:39:17 AM
I was checking the Shutter Count on my M. It showed 2K and then shutter counts and LV actuation. Then, what is the correct shutter counts. What is LV actuation ?
Shutter counts is the number of picture it's taken.
LV actuation is the number of times it's turned on the LV.
1%,
Lately I have I heard a lot of talk about audio with MLV. I just read your reply on the thread about the differences between Raw and MLV and I was thinking the same as you that the first thing I think of is Raw has no audio and MLV has audio. The M is still one of those ML/TL cameras with no audio features, such as audio meters for setup/recording, no headphones output and no MLV audio recording.
I have stayed off this topic since the last time I asked which caused a problem. I appreciate all your work for the M as well as all the other developers. I have been here everyday, testing every build since last July for the M. I try to help others with questions I know about, hoping it will help devs spend more time on what they are doing instead of having to answer questions.
Can you please tell me the status with audio for the M? Is it being worked on or has it been put on a shelf for later development? I feel it is the one big thing the M truly needs. Not only for MLV recording, but at least for H.264 recording and playback using headphones. It is really needed for doing things like interviews and checking playback. I do not want/need to use more external gear as a workaround when I can get the results from the camera by itself. I just can't listen to anything during recording and playback. The main reason I got the M was for it's very small size and high quality APS-C sensor. Perfect for run and gun and the ability to look like a tourist so as not to draw any attention. Adding more gear just for audio monitoring defeats the main reason I use this camera.
Best regards,
Gary
It has to be coded but the big thing is that wav recording seems like it won't work. The camera hangs if you mess with the asif. So the best would be audio for H264 + headphones through the USB jack.
Quote from: 1% on March 07, 2014, 01:02:05 AM
It has to be coded but the big thing is that wav recording seems like it won't work. The camera hangs if you mess with the asif. So the best would be audio for H264 + headphones through the USB jack.
audio for H264 + headphones through the USB jack. i would be very happy to get that for now. :) Is it possible to also get the meters to work during setup before we record H.264? Maybe you or someone else can work out the wav recording for MLV later on.
Having the headphones for H.264 would be very helpful since I can then hear whether the mic battery starts to crap out or something else is sounding wrong during an interview. Like a person pops the mic or they accidentally knock the mic. I could then repeat the question to get another take. Also, listening to the sound on playback to double check.
Once the IC remains powered up it should in theory stay on... ergo meters pre recording. Just its going to take a bit of reversing/rewriting to get audio working. The read doesn't need to be doubled and and the registers probably don't need to be hardcoded so it stands a chance at passing code review and getting into ML. Will also apply to 700D/650D/etc
I've still been struggling with the intervalometer freezing if it fails to get AF lock, and I was reading more about ML and came across a post that mentioned another way to do timelapse by shooting video with fps override. In my case, I am trying to shoot pics every 1/3 sec (less than 1799 pics generally). I was wondering if I can potentially get the same image quality (need shutter speed of ~1/1000s and full resolution).
I am still learning tons about ML and in the userguide the description about adjusting the rolling shutter effect scared me off - rolling shutter is a big problem with SfM-based 3D reconstruction, and I am trying to get this camera to work for aerial mapping.
On another note, I was wondering if 1% or anyone else might be able to tell me if the failure to get lock is something that can be fixed with ML/TL, and if there is any kind of debugging work I could do on the code (definitely an amateur programmer, but I am capable of generating crash logs and reading code and sort of figuring out what's going on if someone points me in the right direction.
Thanks for your all of your time and work on this.
Andy
I think the LV only AF is what sucks... remember the first FW version? It was much worse. I don't get much better performance from any of the cams in LV so I guess the way to go is to turn AF off.
You can shoot HD sized silent pics, esp in crop mode. Won't be the full sensor but at least it will be raw.
It sure does seem like the AF stability (intervalometer stability?) is getting better. I upgraded to the latest version of TL last week and I just got the camera back from another flight. Got pics the whole time this time w/40mm lens and AF (1025 pics w the internal battery). WooHoo! The 22mm lense seems more sensitive to freezing do to AF errors in my tests.
I wish I could do MF, but the temp change from ground to air makes it impossible to pre-focus, at least with the 40mm lens, and the 18-55 and 22 both lose their focus on powercycle (and I have to turn cameras off to mount them in the wing mount). If there is a lens that's ~35mm equivalent and doesn't change focal length with temp, I would love to learn about it.
Andy
Quote from: gary2013 on March 04, 2014, 06:54:34 AMWhat is the native iso for the M?
Some time ago I asked a Canon rep. this and they said that if by "native iso" I meant "highest dr with the least noise", then it's 100. This 7d sensor analysis seems to suggest however that 200 may have the "highest dr with the least noise": http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/evaluation-canon-7d/index.html
The question is under thorough investigation here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10111.0
QuoteEdit- Mar 11th ver of TL records MLV, but it doesn't let me access the ML menus after I stop recording. It pops up a Busy message. I have to pull the battery. Raw records okay, just MLV has problems.
Does it work now, there were some changes in MLV, I haven't done any EOSM in the last 2 days, just 7D/6D
hello guys,
i'd dearly need my EOS M as B-Roll this weekend, but i'm having troubles with FPS Override and Sound in general. I'm not going to shoot raw, i just the cam to record standard movie but at 30FPS.
due to some reason the cam often (always?!) switches off sound recording in the canon menu. i do re-enable that ofcourse.
in FPS Override i active sound recording into a seperate WAV but i don't see any wav-File on the card after recording. no sound in the movie file, too.
does sound recording on EOS M work at all? until some minutes i always got "sound disabled" on the display when starting recording.
but atleast this doesn't seem to occur after i disabled loading raw modules at all.
the worst problem is that FPS doesn't seem to work at all. when i replay the clip with VLC on my laptop it always says 25FPS just as i set it up in the canon menu.
any help would be appreciated.. am i just overseeing something? or just too stoopid?!
no wav on eos M. FPS override turns off sound. if you want 24fps you can record a normal movie without fps override. the fps will change as soon as you start recording.
but as said i switched ftp override to 30. but the recorded clips are 25fps. atleast vlc told me so?!
am i missing something?
about the sound - really bad. any way this could be changed anyhow?
ok, i can switch videomode to pal, so i managed to record 30p on my 7d. this should work on the m, too? or?
The fps override doesn't update meta data in the file so even if you recorded 2fps it will play at 30 until you get it into your NLE and override it.
you can try flipping video modes/pal/ntsc one of them should have 30fps. I have seen 24/25/30/60/50 as defaults and those will record with audio.
For wav, even MLV sound hangs the camera. You get like 1 wav and then hang. The best it will get is meters/audio controls/headphones unless there is some way to record wav without touching the asif functions or tripping whatever locks it up.
Btw 1%, I see that the video hack for regular non-raw/mlv video menu is back. But when you set the GOP and flush, TL would disable canon audio and even if you turn it back on, if you turn the camera off and on again, it will automatically disable the audio again.
This is the same behavior with the 7D TL too.
Is it possible to have this as a separate option that can be disabled? It's annoying to have to turn the audio back on just to get the camera to shoot all-I. Since, given fast cards, you can shoot All-I with the audio on with this video hack.
Thanks
I can try it. In my experience messing with the flush rate or gop makes sound out of sync or stop. On 6D the story is different.
Discussion about the announced changes regarding Tragic Lantern has been moved here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11080.0
This discussion needs to be readily available to all users, and not buried in specific threads, that only benefit users who actively watch those threads.
gary2013, please be considerate of this in the future.
Thanks.
Quote from: Audionut on March 21, 2014, 04:49:15 PM
Discussion about the announced changes regarding Tragic Lantern has been moved here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11080.0
Thanks.
Quote from: gary2013 on March 21, 2014, 06:00:04 PM
My post was for the original thread about the future development of the M.
Your opening sentence (in the off-topic discussion) reflects otherwise.
My bold for emphasis.
Quote from: gary2013 on March 21, 2014, 02:56:51 PM
I hope the major forum changes that were announced do not impede any development for the M, 6D and 7D.
Quote from: gary2013 on March 21, 2014, 06:00:04 PM
Where that discussion led to is not up to me.
You have some responsibility in where the discussion heads, based on your own contribution.
If I start discussing the superbowl, you're saying the any following conversation that pertains to the superbowl, was not a result of my actions!
Quote from: gary2013 on March 21, 2014, 06:00:04 PM
From what I understood, we were not suppose to talk about TL anymore in the ML forum.
After 1 week from the announcement, yes, that is correct.
Quote from: gary2013 on March 21, 2014, 06:00:04 PM
Next time, just send me a PM if you have some personal problem with me and make sure the PM has your name on it so I know who I am talking to.
I will be sure too. On this occasion, there was no personal vendetta. Simply, I performed an action as a moderator, that I feel best serves the community, not the emotional well being of individuals.
I asked you to be considerate.
Quoteconsiderate
kənˈsɪd(ə)rət/
showing careful thought.
This seems polite enough for me. Since you clearly take offense to the word, I will be sure to chose another word in future discussion with you.
Regards,
Audionut.
http://www.catb.org/esr/faqs/smart-questions.html#not_losing
1%, or anyone who might know, what is the difference between GOP 1 and GOP off? Are they both intraframe All i? I am using TL Mar 22.
Hi and thx for ML/TL! =)
I'm new to ML/TL and I'm just lost in the jungle. As a newbie I've not been able to find the latest and complete guide with all options to use ML/TL on an EOS M Mark I with 2.02 firmware. All the information seems to be splitted, distributed and sometimes outdated. I was expecting a first post in a sticky thread like this one clearifying all my questions as I'm used to on XDA-forums for smartphones.
So please let me ask some basic questions here:
- There seem to be different options to install/use ML/TL, e.g. EOScard yes or no. Will I have to flash ML/TL over the Canon firmware or is it possible to use ML/TL only by booting from sd card?
- I read about TL having more features and being developed far by 1% without backporting all of its features to ML. But am I correct with downloading the newest TL from https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern? These files seem to be outdated while ML nightly for EOS M202 is from today!? Do they even work with latest 2.02 firmware?
- Will I have to install/boot ML first and copy TL on top of it? My research says there is no stable, RC or beta of ML, right? So will I have to download and install ML nightly first and copy the (outdated?) TL files to my sd card?
In a nutshell I'm looking for the latest and most secure way to use ML/TL, preferably as boot option and especially for using raw crop video. It already would be a great help to know which files I will have to download at a minimum (EOScard, *.fir?).
Thank you so much!
Regards: Robin
Quote from: 1% on March 20, 2014, 12:19:10 PM
I can try it. In my experience messing with the flush rate or gop makes sound out of sync or stop. On 6D the story is different.
Please do it. :D I've been playing with it on the M and for years, on the 7D, just make sure the flush is at the same frame rate and audio come out great the whole time. Since the flush rate tops out at 50, you can't do this with 720p60 rate. (so, can you also increase the flush rate to 60?)
Thanks again! :D
Quote from: RitterRunkel on March 27, 2014, 10:58:37 AM
Hi and thx for ML/TL! =)
I'm new to ML/TL and I'm just lost in the jungle. As a newbie I've not been able to find the latest and complete guide with all options to use ML/TL on an EOS M Mark I with 2.02 firmware. All the information seems to be splitted, distributed and sometimes outdated. I was expecting a first post in a sticky thread like this one clearifying all my questions as I'm used to on XDA-forums for smartphones.
So please let me ask some basic questions here:
- There seem to be different options to install/use ML/TL, e.g. EOScard yes or no. Will I have to flash ML/TL over the Canon firmware or is it possible to use ML/TL only by booting from sd card?
- I read about TL having more features and being developed far by 1% without backporting all of its features to ML. But am I correct with downloading the newest TL from https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern? These files seem to be outdated while ML nightly for EOS M202 is from today!? Do they even work with latest 2.02 firmware?
- Will I have to install/boot ML first and copy TL on top of it? My research says there is no stable, RC or beta of ML, right? So will I have to download and install ML nightly first and copy the (outdated?) TL files to my sd card?
In a nutshell I'm looking for the latest and most secure way to use ML/TL, preferably as boot option and especially for using raw crop video. It already would be a great help to know which files I will have to download at a minimum (EOScard, *.fir?).
Thank you so much!
Regards: Robin
Welcome to the forum, Robin. You can get the nightly builds for TL at http://tl.bot-fly.com/ Thanx to Jerry for maintaining this website for us to get the compiled files. I just installed Mar 26th build. I have used the nightly builds everyday since last July and I have never had any problems. You can get the ML nightly builds at http://builds.magiclantern.fm/#/ They do not have the fir file, that you will need. The TL version usually has more features available. I like having the Bit Rate options and the Video Hack options.
You can find a Guide for the M at http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82955#msg82955 Thanx to Max for this Guide. I am not sure if it is up to date, though. I have not seen Max around here since last December.
I do not use eoscard.exe. I format the new card in the computer using fat32. I then format the card in the camera using the Canon menu. After that formats, power down the camera and put the card back in the computer to copy the nightly files. There is the ML folder, the autoexec file and the fir file. After that completes, safely eject the card (always use safely) and put the card back into the camera, power up and set the camera mode with the dial on the top to the middle position for Picture Mode. Make sure the camera is then set to Manual. Next, go to the Canon menus and the second tab from the right has the firmware install at the bottom of that drop down list. Run the firmware update. It sees the TL fir file. Be patient and at the end a screen full of green text appears. Reboot the camera and turn the camera mode back to Video.
Tap the screen with two fingers and the TL files appear. You can get to submenus and back out with a single finger tap. The first tab is Audio. Turn off the headphone audio by highlighting it and then press Set to make it say Off. That feature is not working and it needs to be turned off.
NOTE- Please ask 1% to turn on this feature. The last time I asked, a couple of weeks ago, he said he can do it, but there has been some confusion on here between ML and TL and 1% also has some other things he needs to do. So he has not gotten around to doing that for us yet. Many of us really want this headphone feature and we hope that he can do it for us soon.
Next, go to the modules menu and click on each module and press Set to have it load up after the next reboot. I do not install the arkanoid module. It seems to be some game to play. Do not install dot tune and crypt modules. They seem to cause problems for the M. Now, go over one more tab to Debug, go down to the second row and press Set to turn on the Load modules after a crash. Reboot and your good to go.
I always delete the ML folder, the autoexec file and the fir file from the card before installing the new nightly build. We also have a shutterbug problem. You can read up on that. I now always just run a Canon format BUT make sure you KEEP the ML files on the card by not tapping that screen. Run the Format and reboot and the shutterbug is gone. But it also reverts back to Fat32 format if you used exfat in the beginning. I have no problem using fat32 for now. The other two methods are twisting the lens off a little and back on when powered up and the other way is a quick power off and then quickly back on before the LED flashes also work. But you have to do that each time you turn the camera on.
Some people don't care about the shutterbug because they do not take pics when shooting video. I always take pics when I shoot video. For example, when I have a shot where nothing is moving. Like an exterior shot of a building and the sign. I also do not need to set up a tripod for those shots. And, grabbing B roll cutaways can usually be a pic instead of video. This shutterbug has not been solved yet.
Have fun.
Wow Gary, thank you very much for this!
Extremly helpful to me. After spending hours this afternoon (from looking for files to unsuccessfully dealing with make-bootable-scripts and other stuff) I just did what you wrote (GParted@fat32, format in camera, copying the current TL, ...) and 2 min later the firmware was found immediately and I am able to use TL now. Great!
There's only one thing I'm not sure whether I get it:
Quote from: gary2013 on March 27, 2014, 04:06:10 PMI now always just run a Canon format BUT make sure you KEEP the ML files on the card by not tapping that screen. Run the Format and reboot and the shutterbug is gone.
I think the ML files (in the ML folder) will be deleted like all things on the sd card by formatting in camera !? How to keep them anyway? Or do you mean the ML files of the flashed firmware and that I just have to stay calm by never tapping the screen while formating?
Thx again, I hope I can contribute to the community myself in the future!
Quote from: RitterRunkel on March 27, 2014, 07:38:16 PM
Wow Gary, thank you very much for this!
Extremly helpful to me. After spending hours this afternoon (from looking for files to unsuccessfully dealing with make-bootable-scripts and other stuff) I just did what you wrote (GParted@fat32, format in camera, copying the current TL, ...) and 2 min later the firmware was found immediately and I am able to use TL now. Great!
There's only one thing I'm not sure whether I get it:I think the ML files (in the ML folder) will be deleted like all things on the sd card by formatting in camera !? How to keep them anyway? Or do you mean the ML files of the flashed firmware and that I just have to stay calm by never tapping the screen while formating?
Thx again, I hope I can contribute to the community myself in the future!
u r welcome. It is confusing because we are using TL, but the Canon firmware menu says ML. Just don't tap the screen and it will keep whatever files (the TL files) on the card and it will reformat the system. Reboot when you are done. If you make a mistake and accidentally delete the files, just start over from the part where you copied the TL files to your card.
You will know if you have the shutterbug if you are in video mode, not recording, and try to take a picture and nothing happens. Then do my trick of Format in Canon menu keeping the ML files. Reboot when that finishes. Make sure you are in video mode, not recording and you now should be able to take take pictures.
And, if you ever get in a jam with a camera freeze, you can't power off or the LED is blinking fast and will not stop, pull the battery out and then back in and reboot.