Magic Lantern Forum

Quote from: 1% on October 28, 2012, 01:03:55 AM
Changing the crystal is too much work, not worth opening the camera and might not work.

I've overclocked a bunch of ARM router + phone stuff and if you go past a point the proc just doesn't boot.

Well i think it cold be worth the risk . I think i cant resist ;) Just bought a broken 1100d for experimenting.

About 7 Years ago i ylso overclocked my Nintendo Ds by adding a different crystal that could be activated with a switch.

Im also not shure what will happen if we change the clock.

Do you have a broken 1100D? I've been looking for one for a LOONG time  :-\

Before killing it for good, If it does not boot, I'd like some macro pics of every single PCB board and connector in there and run some tests to find the serial (UART) port (by probing the battery bay pins with an oscope or something similar)

Yes shure ! Ill do some photos today / tomorrow if thats ok. Ill probably send it in to the canon service center and see if they replace it.
Its still covered by warranty

What defect does it have?

water damage :/ doesnt start or do anything

I don't think there's a warranty for that.

Nope, that's definitely not covered.
Hardware vendors like to place "water-sensitive paper" that changes color in the event of water damage just to avoid this kind of situation.

Of course theres no warranty for water damage originaly. but maby thell replace it anyway.

Yes like in the iphone ;)

And i guess corrosion from salty water or just mineral water is definitely obvious for anybody who can diagnose a failure in such a device.
I had found a 500D with a 18-55 IS on a used market forum. Shame it had been sold. Both things were not working. 18-55 IS could be repaired with a spare flat cable for AF (did that, so easy to fix mine a year ago) and the 500D looked like it had a dead shutter. You can find it on ebay for about 40 euros and doesn't seem to difficult to replace it.

The corrosion is usually obvious no matter what.

Yes thats tue ! But ill try to clean everything. Especially the Viewfinder !

Starting disassembly now . Be prepared for photo updates :)

Terrific!
Post the pictures in the 1100D thread

update : http://imageshack.us/g/22/img3534ms.jpg/
:)

Look at that corrosion, poor camera  >:(

whats hidden under the hood:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/img0867zz.jpg/

Update: http://imageshack.us/g/41/img0872az.jpg/

So it´s a 27mhz crystal ....

The pictures aren't very clear, can you write down the text from each IC?

Quote from: a1ex on October 28, 2012, 09:26:13 PM
The pictures aren't very clear, can you write down the text from each IC?

shure! A few minutes please  ;)

http://imageshack.us/g/809/img0892ui.jpg/

Datasheet for the Toshiba TMP19A43CDXBG:
http://www.semicon.toshiba.co.jp/eng/product/micro/selection/tx19family/tx19a/selection/1176002_2858.html

hynix h5ms1g22afr:
http://www.hynix.com/datasheet/eng/mobile/details/mobile_17_H5MS1G22AFR.jsp?searchType=2&menuNo=1&m=4&s=2&RK=17&RAM_NAME=

The Sensor  8)

http://imageshack.us/g/812/img0898af.jpg/

Thanks for your hard work, here are some commented pics (I need more details on the unknown chips, one of them will probably be the audio IC)











Note: Looks like there's place for an IC, I wonder what that is. Also: lots of test points....

Better Images:
http://imageshack.us/g/818/img0905q.jpg/

The second one looks like an audio chip (is that a jack and the upper connector for the microphone?) .

jep the connector on the lower right in the second pictor is for the buildt in mic

No, it's the shutter release cable...unless...

I was talking about this.
The form factor of the chip is the one of an audio IC and the connector directly above should be for the microphone.
The one on the right could be the  shutter release, as it is an entry level camera.

Jup i meant that conector: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/img0906al.jpg/
Thats for the mic. and the 2.5mm jack is for the shutter release.

started spraying the PCBs and some metal parts with rust converter spray ..... lets see what it does. I`ll post the results tommorow.

@nanomad  heres the picture you asked for http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/138/img3543a.jpg/

The very small part of the fcc cable is for the connection in the battery bay

You should have used alcohol and brushed it. The rust on traces is what causes problems. If they rusted all the way through you would have to fix it with solder, etc. You can possibly revive it.

That photo isn't really helpful  :-\
It would be interesting to trace the "dots" inside the battery bay and see where they go

they go directly to the main PCB ! ill post a picture !

@ 1%  i did that already :) but still a little bit corrosion on some parts ( way better than before). But the metal hood that covers the digic 4 is rusted badly. so i spraid it also with rust remover. i dont think the camera will ever work again. im just trying to make it look shine and send it in to canon service.

Ill also sand down the corroded fcc cables. we`ll see what happens. maybe she will be usable again but i dont really think so

Do you see what i mean ?
http://i.imgur.com/LWqXS.jpg

Update:
Sent the camera to Canon service yesterday .... let's see what happens :)

Bad News  :(
Canon Service wont replace the camera. The replacement cost would be 350€. And they charge 20€ for that diagnosis plus tax plus shipping back to me :(

As soon as i have it back i´ll send it to nanomad so he can take some pictures of it.

Yea, most service centers won't touch water damage. Even after you replace what's broken the corrosion can come back to break more.