ETTR should be ported to most cameras; follow the progress on their own specific threads.
If you don't know what ETTR is then go here:http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5693.0
If you have never seen a Timelapse go here: http://timescapes.org/
If you want to learn all the basics and advanced methods to obtain timelapses go here: https://timelapse.org
Make sure you go to the Forum for the latest discussions on this subject. https://timelapse.org/forums/
.. But if you want to learn how to use the latest Flicker Free ETTR Timelapse feature in ML continue reading...
NOTE: The new Timelapse feature is only available for those cameras that have the new capabilities of RAW histogram, silent picture, and or RAW video. This is changing daily so check the development threads for you camera to see if this feature is working.
Currently I have only tested it in 5D3 and it works, but is should work on 5D2 and 6D. Will update as more info and testing is available.
May 25th 2013
. Hot off the press the new feature of Magic Lantern has now been tested and the results are outstanding.
I have been trying to obtain a flicker free Timelapse with ML and it seems that there was always an area where flickering was unavoidable. It usually occurred in an area where the shutter speed accuracy was in question.
The new process developed by A1ex who has been on a development non-stop ROLL! Congratulations!!!! Combines the latest advances in image exposure (EETR) with a simple yet powerful method for obtaining Flicker-Free Timelapses referred as "sidecar files".
This time A1ex really got it right and now we have the camera and the software synchronized to produce outstanding results in image quality and flicker free. Also note that this requires only FREE software, so you can save money for the next camera or lens upgrade.
------------------Flicker Free ETTR Timelapse -- Camera Options --
If your camera has this feature enabled then you should have all of the ETTR options plus the Intervalometer and the Post deflicker options in Shoot tab.First here are the ETTR Camera Options:Make sure camera is in M mode, and ISO not in Auto.
1. First the ETTR module is located in the EXPO
tab: Auto ETTR
2. Auto ETTR has a simple mode:
3. Trigger mode
allows you to select three different methods for triggering the use of the AETTR. For Timelapse set it to Always on
4. Slowest shutter:
Set the slowest shutter that will allow for the current scene. For a night time lapse set it to 30 seconds.
5. Highlight ignore:
Percentage of (highlight) pixels to ignore when calculating ETTR. This is used if you want to allow overexposure in the highlights, for example room lights. Typical setting is 0.2% and means ignore almost nothing. If you want to ignore more highlights try 1, 3, 5 or even 10%. If the timelapse has the sun or moon in it, you may want to raise h.i. to 5% or more. Otherwise the scene will be too dark.
6. Midtone SNR limit:
Is defined in EV levels of noise in the Midtones form 1 to 8 EV. The higher the SNR the less noise. Typical settings from 4 to 8 EV. For a Timelapse I use 4, 5 or 6.
7. Shadow SNR limit:
Is defined in EV levels of noise form 1 to 4 EV. The higher the SNR the less noise. Typical settings from 2 to 4 EV. For a Timelapse I use 2 or 3.Now we make sure that the histogram is set to RAW
Go to the Overlay
Tab you can scroll down to Histogram
and press Q
to configure:RAW EV indicator: OFF
Here you can press the set button and select ETTR hint
. This will display in the RAW histogram a hint of how many more EVs you can expose to meet the ETTR parameters set in previous menu.
Now we set the Intervalometer
In the Shoot
tab you will find the Intervalometer feature where you can set the following options:
a. Take a pic every 60s
. The camera will take a picture automatically every x sec. If you are using ETTR set this to more than 10 seconds to give time to ETTR to calculate exposure and Post deflicker to calculate exposure adjustment.
b. Start after 3s
. You can add a delay before camera starts.
c. Stop after Disabled. This can be set to stop the intervalometer every x number of pics.
c. Manual FocusRamp OFF
. This can be used if you want to change the focus with each shot. The settigs go from +-1 step/shot to +-100 steps/shot.Now we set Post Deflicker slidecar files
In the same Shoot
tab you can also find the Post Deflicker
feature with the following options:
Slidecar file type UFRaw
. Only two options are available: UFRaw
Deflicker percentile 50%
This determines where to meter the exposure for the deflickering process. 50% is recommended and is equivalent to metering in the Median highligts.Deflicker target level -4 EV
. To be determined
ETTR Flicker-Free Timelapse (ETTR-FFT) -- HOW TO USE IT (step-by-step) --:
If you do not have ML installed in your camera go here:RAW video & ML -- Beginners Guide and FAQ -- READ FIRSThttp://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5520.0
If you do not know what ETTR is then go here:ETTR (Exposure to the Right): - -History & Beginners Guide --http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5693.msg40369#msg40369First we set up all of the ETTR features.
1. Go to Canon Menu a set Image Review: 2 sec
, if you disable it will not work!
2. Put the camera in manual mode M
3. Press trash button to enter ML menu.
4. Go to the Expo
Tab and enable Auto ETTR
by pressing set.
5. Press Q if you want to change ETTR details. Default settings are good but you may want to adjust Slowest shutter
depending on your needs.
6. Press Q and move to Overlay
Tab. Make sure Global Draw in On
, all modes.
11. Go to the Shoot Tab
12. Scroll to Slidecar file
type and press Q
13. Set Slidecar file type to UFRaw or XMP
, and check the other settings i.e 50% and 4 EV. Press Q
14. Scroll to Intervalometer and press Q
to change it.
15. Set Take a pic every x sec
and any other specs that you may want to change. Press Q
16. Before we enable the intervalometer we want to preset the camera ETTR so press trash button to return to photo mode.
17. Take two or three pictures until the RAW histogram ETTR hint is less than 0.2
18. Erase the pictures you took and press trash button to return to ML.
16. You should be in the Shoot
tab so scroll to the intervalometer and Press Set to ON
12. Press trash button to exit ML menu. The intervalometer is now functioning and the red led will blink as long as intervalometer is working.NOTE:
If you set your intervalometer at 30 seconds and your slowest shutter speed at 30 sec, you will have problems. Set the intervalometer at least = Slowest Shutter speed plus the review image setting, in Canon Menu, plus 3 more seconds.
The intervalometer can be stopped by pressing the image play button or the trash button followed by an OFF on the intervalometer.
Watch the camera for a couple of shots to make sure that the images are good and ETTR is settling nice for a long day or night of work.
Come back from time to time to make sure it is doing a nice job...
wait all day .........
While you are waiting for the timelapse lets get going on setting up the software to process the files.Post Processing ETTR-FFT Basic Steps
-------------------XMP WORKFLOW for PC
1: Make sure your camera time is not ahead of the computer time you will be using.
2: If the name of your CR2 file does not agree with the xmp, change the XMP always. In this manner the xmp will be modified after the CR2. If you do it the other way ACR will not read the files. Always the CR2 Modified Time Stamp mus be before the xml Modified Time Stamp.
3. Once you have the cr2 and the xmp ready for processing you open all of the cr2 files with ACR at once
. If you have too many files for your pc capabilities then do them in groups.
4. In ACR click on Select All. Top left.
5. Make sure that the sliders are not modified in the Basic tab. Do all the exposure adjustments in the Tone Curve tab.
6. Click on Save Images (Bottom Left) and choose your preferred type. I use tiff for best results.Ramping exposure for XMP for Adobe Bridge
If you want to ramp, add, or delete some exposure values to your images via XMP we have a great script to be used with Adobe Bridge.
You can get the script here (Thanks to dmilligan) : http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8850.msg83394#msg83394
Copy the script and paste it to notes.
Save it as BridgeRampingScript.jsx
Placed a copy in : C:\Users\mycomputername\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Bridge CS6\Startup Scripts
Opened Bridge and asked me if I wanted to load the script. Clicked yes
Selected a group of images to change the exposure
Right mouse click and select "Ramp ACR Settings" (near the bottom of the menu)
On the drop down menu you can select any of the xmp settings, default "Exposure2012"
In Start enter the amount to adjust the first image
In End entered the amount to adjust the last image
Clicked additive (To add or subtract the exposure rather than to change it)
Adjusting exposure for XMP with exiftool
With this little tool you can also adjust the exposure of the xmps but you cannot ramp the exposure.
Dowload exiftool here: http://download.cnet.com/ExifTool/3000-2193_4-10791213.html
Place it in the directory where the xmp files are. (Always make a copy of the original xmp)
Open the DOS promt (Type cmd at the windows comand line)
Navegate to the directory where the xmp files are located
Type: exiftool -Exposure2012+=x *.xmp
Where x is the ammount of adjustment, could be +ve or -ve.
The exiftool will report back how many files where adjusted.
If you do not put the + sign after the 2012 exfitool will just set the x exposure to all the files. With the + sign it will add that exposure to the xmp.
--------------------------------------------------------TROUBLE SHOOTING XMP WORKFLOW
ETTR is a module to expose your images to the right so as to maximize the signal-to-noise ratio, meaning have lower noise in your shadows and probably better color. ETTR has nothing to do with deflicker, it is just exposing each image to the best of the cameras abilities to try to capture all the details possible. This module has become more complicated and powerful and now you have better control of what is that you are trying to capture best. For more information go here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5693.0
If the change in exposure from one shot to the next is extreme, then ETTR will be going all over the place trying to adjust to each exposure. For this reason it could seem that exposure ramp via AV or Auto ISO is smoother. I have experienced this kind of variation when the interval time in the intervalometer is very long, ie 2 minutes. I never use ETTR with and interval time longer then 1 minute. I had a situation with passing clouds where the exposure was varying quickly and ETTR produced very bad results so a shorter interval time is always better. In some cases it may be better to use other exposure methods.
Also do not set the intervalometer to take pictures every 2 secods because there will not be enough time for ETTR and Postdeflicker calculations. Minimum intervalomenter setting should be above 10 seconds.
ETTR is not an instant perfect photo mode, what I mean is that it can take more than two shots to get the software to converge into an ideal exposure to the right. So if the exposure changes from one shot to the next then ETTR is in a hunting mode, AND in this case do not use ETTR.
Post Deflicker is another beast all by itself. I dont know the math behind this but it must assume some kind of average exposure ramp and it adjusts each shot via xmp file so as to bring the exposure of that shot very close to the average exposure ramp. I assume that this algorithm can also get somewhat screwed if there are a lot of exposure changes from one shot to the next.
Assuming that all is working properly, when you import a cr2 file into ACR or lightroom, it has an exposure adjustment of zero, but when the software reads the xmp file, then the exposure will be adjusted by some amount sufficient to bring the exposure to some predefined standard by the Post Deflicker algorithm. For example when I open the files in ACR without the xmp files and I walk through the images, it is clear that the exposure is changing from one image to the next. If I open the same files accompanied by the xmp file, then the exposure change from one image to the other is minimal, and I can see how the exposure slider changes from one image to the next.
----------------------XMP WORKFLOW to ADD an Exposure OFFSET for MAC
Doyle; many thanks, your tutorial worked a treat.
Haven't quite worked 'how' it has worked, but I seem to have ended up with some additional XMP files with the suffix 'original' at the end of them. Perhaps Exiftool is being friendly and making backups of the originals?
To clarify (if anyone else is having the same issues) this was my process;
1 - Download and install exiftool FOR MAC (There is a specific Mac OSX package)
2 - Prepare/move CR2 files and .xmp files from Magic Lantern in one folder
3 - Open Terminal
3 - Enter the command as Doyle explained above;
exiftool -Exposure2012+=+*.** /drag folder here containing cr2's and .xmp's
Where the *.** is enter the amount you want to set
eg 0.05, next to the number you have chosen
Too the left is +
-= under exposure
4 - Allow process to run (New/backup XMP files were created for me. I waited until the list had finished)
5 - Select all CR2 files, open in Adobe Camera Raw
6 - FILES SHOULD OPEN, DE-FLICKERED
7 - Select all, make White Balance auto. (Unsure about next bit?...)
Make any edits should you want them? Note, that if you change exposure now, you'll undo the de-flickering!
(Perhaps edits should be done first, then you start the de-flickering command afterwards? Needs testing!)
8 - Close Adobe Camera Raw
9 - In After Affects, import the first CR2 image, select 'Camera Raw Sequence.' Create timelpase!
Many thanks Doyle! Maybe this Mac step by step should be added to that top post/tutorial thread?
More on this subject on the original post here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6789.msg78647#msg78647
Also if you need to rename multiple files in Mac: http://namechanger.en.softonic.com/mac
Exiftool plugin for lightroom. (Thanks Dane) http://www.robcole.com/Rob/ProductsAndServices/xEmPLrPlugin/
1. Download UFRAW basic version. You can find it here in many flavors:http://ufraw.sourceforge.net/
I used the windows for dummies version from here:http://sourceforge.net/projects/ufraw/files/ufraw/ufraw-0.19.2/ufraw-0.19.2-2-setup.exe/download
2. Install it all default settings.
3. Download this little .bat file I created to run it in batch mode here:https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9z8Y0rg-pu8bE9XaUdQcnJPQzA/edit?usp=sharing
or.. make your own bat file with the following commands:
cd C:\Program Files (x86)\ufraw\bin
ufraw-batch I:\ufrawconvert\*.ufraw --out-type=jpeg
Note that you must have the correct directory for \ufraw\bin
Also note that you must have another directory selected for the place where you put the timelapse files, in the above example it is I:\ufrawconvert\
3a. If you downloaded the bat file you will have to edit. Note that if you placed that bat file in the C: drive you will have to start the notepad as an administrator; this also depends on what type of operating system you have. so before you move it to the C dir, just edit with the necessary changes.
3b. Now save it and copy it to the \ufraw\bin directory. Again you may need administrator permits to do this.
3c. Now create a short-cut (select the file, right mouse, Shortcut) to this file and copy it to your desktop.
If you double click on this link the ufraw batch system will kick in and start processing the files. But before you do this lets go to step 4.
4. Wait for the timelapse to finish, and then we are going to copy the files to the I:\ufrawconvert\ directory, or to whatever directory you set in the bat file.
MAKE SURE YOU COPY THE .CR2 and the .UFR files. There should be a corresponding .UFR file for the .CR2 If the names don't match then we will have to rename them. More on that later. For now just copy them.
5. If the names are not identical then download Bulk Rename Utility here:www.bulkrenameutility.co.uk
(Also in Mac: http://namechanger.en.softonic.com/mac
6. Open Bulk Rename Utility and navigate to where your files are. There are a lot of options on this little thing but we will only use a couple. Our goal will be to make the .CR2 files names match the UFR files and then to rename the .UFR files to .UFRAW.
Let's assume that the CR2 file says IMG_7064.CR2 and that you want to change it to HP6A7064.CR2
Click on the CR2 file, now look at the third selection column (below the files) on the top row and it should say Remove. On the little box that say first you can enter 4 to remove the first 4 letters from the file. Now the CR2 file should read 7064.CR2. Now look to next selection column where it says ADD and in prefix put HP6A. Now it should read HP6A7064.CR2 If you have it right then select all of the CR2 files and press Rename on the bottom right corner of the application.
But note that the numbers must be corresponding so make sure you do not change any numbers.
Now select one of the . UFR files and reset the boxes that you previously modified. Find the selection column number 11, this is Extensions. Click on the drop-down box and select Fixed, type the UFRAW extension. Notice how the HP6A7064.UFR is now renamed to HP6A7064.UFRAW If all looks good then select all of the UFR files and press Rename on the bottom right corner of the application.
7. Go back to your desktop and double click on the shrortcut-link you created for the batch file.
If all goes well you will see UFRAW going to work... for a long time
8. Watch the program details because it may not send the files to the destination folder. The first time I ran, it worked flawlessly but the second time it sent the files to a \ufraw\bin directory but I could not find them. In my case it says it is going to the C:\Program Files (x86)\ufraw\bin directory but I found them in the C:\Users\RE\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Program Files (x86)\UFRaw\bin
To simplify the whole process I went to this directory, went up one level, and made a short-cut which I copied back to my Desktop. So now I have a shortcut for the batch file and a shortcut for the directory where it saves.
After all of the files are processed get them out of there to another DIR and import them to your video software.