Nightly Builds - try the very latest stuff here

Started by a1ex, October 11, 2012, 01:55:31 PM

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Wynand

Is it possible to have the EOS M display ON while using the HDMI cable for an external monitor?  I like to use an external monitor but the touch screen display of the EOS M then gets disabled and no "easy" touch screen changes is then possible.  Regards and thanks for all the great work done!

avipami

Hello!!!
I Love the ML for the 5d  mIII and I have a question !

Is it possible that someone can incorporate a shutter lag setting ? 
I want the shutter to lag but not the flash release
In other words I want the flash to go off when pressing the button, before the shutter by some milli seconds.

Would help a lot !

Walter Schulz

By "go off" you mean strobe firing?
Why not use highspeed sync? When using this strobe will begin to fire before shutter opens and strobe will be retriggered until shutter closes.

avipami

Im doing it with studio strobes and the 2nd curtain closes before the strobe gets any light out of it. If I put a delay to the triggers it only gets worse so I figured that the strobes needs to get off earlier than the shutter starts to move. By then the whole frame would get filled with awesome light :) I have tried all different settings and cables and this is the only way i guess.

Walter Schulz

Which lighting problem you're trying to solve? Do you need exposure time 1/160 s or below?

avipami

No , like im trying to explain. I would like a shutter lag and the flash firing before. Im shooting at hypersync but the second curtain manages to close before the flash starts burning. Lower part of my image is very dark. 

dmilligan

Your concept of what the problem is is all wrong. Flashes fire almost instantaneously, like 1/20000s. The problem is the way your shutter mechanism works. It is a "focal plane shutter" meaning there are two shutter mechanisms, a top one and a bottom one. They are both up and then the top one starts moving down exposing the sensor to light then the top one starts down covering it up. The fastest that these shutters can move from top to bottom is known as the x-sync speed and is around 1/200 of a second. So to get shorter exposure, the top one starts moving down before the bottom gets to the bottom. This is why the bottom of your frame is dark. All you need to do is use a slower shutter speed or the "high speed sync" mode, which fires the flash multiple times while the shutters are moving so that the whole frame is illuminated.

Walter Schulz

You got one thing wrong: Lower part of a picture is located at the upper part of the sensor.

The time needed for the first curtain "falling" down is constant. Strobe is triggered after (!) first curtain hits ground. If exposure time is shorter than x-sync the second curtain is on it's way down. Shadowing is caused by second curtain.

HSS will start triggering before first curtain opens and retriggers until 2nd curtain closes. And most studio strobes won't do HSS.

avipami

Well. I know all what you have said since 2 years ago. If you have seen the latest trends where a studio flash is used with hyper sync triggers you will know. And a flash does not burn at that speed you are talking about. Then you would have a 10000 dollar single flash. Mine burnes at a 1200/second. And it is the second curtain cutting the strobelight. And the question was not about this at all. It was if someone knows how to do or if it is possible to delay the picture taking part and make the flash output to fire before it. And possibly make it set-able in magic lantern :)


Walter Schulz

Quote from: dmilligan on September 29, 2014, 11:41:51 PM
Flashes fire almost instantaneously, like 1/20000s.

Avipami, I think he is not talking about burn time (t.5/t.1) but about delay between strobe triggered and flash starting to burn.
Got this one wrong after first reading, too.

avipami


legreve

Is there a way to get hold of august 2013 5D3 builds?

chross

Hi,
is there a way to get a nightly that includes both, 5DmkII and 50D? I'm asking since am used to swap cards between my Cameras all the time. It seems as if the nightly I installed to get DualISO for the 5DmkII doesn't work on my 50D. Installing the 2.3 stable works fine.

Any hints?

Cheers,
chross

Stedda

Quoteis there a way to get a nightly that includes both

There is no unified build after 2.3 so the short answer is no...

5D Mark III -- 7D   SOLD -- EOS M 22mm 18-55mm STM -- Fuji X-T1 18-55 F2.8-F4 & 35 F1.4
Canon Glass   100L F2.8 IS -- 70-200L F4 -- 135L F2 -- 85 F1.8 -- 17-40L --  40 F2.8 -- 35 F2 IS  Sigma Glass  120-300 F2.8 OS -- 50 F1.4 -- 85 F1.4  Tamron Glass   24-70 2.8 VC   600EX-RT X3

fotogemeinschaft_de

The nightly Build for Canon 5D MK 3 (firmware 123) wasn't updated for 4 Weeks; the older firmware is updated daily? Any reasons for this?
Please visit my www.fotogemeinschaft.de - 30.000 pics


dmilligan

Quote from: fotogemeinschaft_de on October 10, 2014, 08:16:33 AM
the older firmware is updated daily?
Nope. Look at the logs, it is far from "daily". There haven't been any substantial changes to the main ML branch for several months now. The handful of minor changes to the main branch that may have triggered a new build on 5D3-1.1.3, didn't get merged over to the 5D3-1.2.3 branch probably because either: they were camera specific to some other camera, or they were very insignificant.

JABA2

Hey everyone. I've got one question.
Since it seems like we're not gonna see another stable build, I'm using nightlies for my 600D. They are great, but there's one thing bothering me: there's this 'developer screenshot' popping up everytime I start the camera and enter ML menu. Any idea how to remove this?

dmilligan

You can #define CONFIG_RELEASE_BUILD in menu.c. If you don't know what that means, then the answer is no.

JABA2

I'm guessing you mean I should compile the source code myself. Well, too bad, 'cause I'm not bright enough for figuring that out.
'Thanks' for the advice, though.

rainless

Read some books, take some Omega 3 tablets, eat one pear a day... It all helps!  ;)
The Gear - Canon 5D Mark II, Yongnuo 565EX flash, PhotoSel 3mx3m backdrop stand with 3mx3m muslin backdrops. Elinchrom D-Lite 4 it studio lights, some big-ass 110cm reflector. Unlimited German Models

a1ex

I've removed the old 2.3 downloads and added install instructions on the nightly builds page. Feel free to check the stuff, suggest improvements, and update the wiki.

I've updated these pages:

http://magiclantern.fm/downloads.html
http://builds.magiclantern.fm

My spare time has dropped to almost zero (usually I can barely find time to read the forum), so please don't expect major progress from me in the near future. I expect things to clear up around January or February; until then I'm stuck with personal stuff unrelated to ML (and unrelated to Apertus).

swinxx

dear a1ex,

could you please update the 1.2.3 canon 5d mk3 build before you make a break..
it would be great cause then all builds would be at the same dev level..

thx.


a1ex

I won't take a long break, I will only make minor steps whenever I find some time (that is, things that only take a few minutes during a short break).

I've already answered the question about 1.2.3 a while ago.