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Annoying question... where are the nightly builds being posted with RAW enabled?

Sorry, I did search. I've been deep on the T4i nightly builds in their own repository and now I finally have my own 5d3.

Has the Magic Zoom display gone back to being synced with the display so that it's not all sliced and non-vsynced in any of the latest builds?

Anyone?

Has the Magic Zoom display gone back to being synced with the display so that it's not all sliced and non-vsynced in any of the latest builds?

I saw that there was a firmware update for the camera that fixes some stuff in combination with 18-135 STM lens. I am having some problems with this lens. A lot of Focus problems and sometimes it says that there is no lens connected to the camera. Am I the only one with these problems?

AF just sucks all around with this camera, but check the previous page or somewhere in this thread to see a list of official fixes. I don't think AF had anything to do with it, it's just bad on the 650D.

I found the D+ Setting there. Hadn't noticed the addition there! Works on T4i for sure.
I've been playing around with different combinations, and I hope this isn't too far off track, but been trying to figure out if it's better to keep ML Digital ISO set to -0.3 and choose full stop ISO's all the time or to just use the ISO chooser in ML menu to set it to say 320 vs 400.

So Keep it at -0.0 and choose 320 manually or set to -0.3 and choose 400. Seems like there's an oddly huge difference when D+ is on on my T4i. Doing a bunch of tests with it now to really determine what's up.

Well, it is actually in the ISO submenu.

Highlight rolloff improvements are already there, in the image finetuning menu (only for movie). They work nicely with HTP.

It is? Like when you press Q on the ML ISO setting? I have not seen it if it's there.

Which settings in fine tuning help or work well with HTP? This is very dear to me, hehe XD

It probably doesn't detect the HTP setting; ask the guys to fix it.

Just double checked. Works perfect on the latest builds! Great job! I just posted a feature request about adding HTP to the actual ML exposure settings menu too here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6596.new#new

I feel it would be a huge help to a lot of people, especially with the recent progress in raw_rec.

Possible to add an option for Highlight Tone Priority in the first tab of ML menu, preferably right under WB, Shutter, Aperture,ISO?
It seems even more important now more than ever with all the progress in RAW video rec and other things where people need to be more mindful of it being on or off.
I, for one, constantly change it on or off just as much as one would change ISO or shutter speed, depending on the scene.


I had posted about adding HTP or D+ to movie logging, which has been done in the main builds, from what I was told.
I feel like HTP has remained a strangely hidden item in Canon's menus and seems to have remained elusive even in the ML menus.
I always add it to my My Menu area in the vanilla menus, but it really deserves a place next to ISO in the ML menu, imo. It would let me free up a much needed slot in the My Menu section of all my cameras too.

HTP is a very powerful and also potentially very harmful setting, both for IQ and for ML under runs and bugs, that often goes unchanged and/or unnoticed on many intermediate users' cameras.

It would be really amazing if some further development went into a ML version of HTP too, since people have come up with ways to improve upon other ISO and exposure related settings before, this would really be great if someone put some work into it! Imagine a way to have the superior highlights rolloff without as much of an intense loss in IQ.

alex added it.
https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/commits/09029939593639df76ae3d1ef0fc27b45185dcbd

it will find its way in the next releases.

Awesome! I just remembered this. I noticed it still doesn't seem to be in the latest Satriani build on the 650D, I could be wrong.

Thanks but it really seems dead. Are you sure you did nothing else?

A couple of things that may be the cause this:
-When i installed ML and did the firmware update it said it couldn't find any update.
-I set the fps override to 65fps
-Directly after the above step, under the FPS Override category i was switching between Accurate fps, 180d no yello effect (or whatever it was called) etc.

A different battery, perhaps. To toss one out there.

As far as i know, that is the only reason. Most dominant use would be e.g timelaps. It will save a lot of shutter action, save a lot of space, and the quality is perfect for this purpose.

Also, quiet moments and places during event coverage; Church, Quiet indoor area, trying to be incognito, trying to keep violent constant clicking sounds out of fellow videographer's audio, etc. It's a cool thing to have for sure. I just wish the res could be higher but I understand how it works.

Maybe some day we can find a way to do it in mirror lock-up mode or something at normal res... can only hope.

You shouldn't forget that not everyone runs Adobe software.

True, not everyone is serious about media production, but then why are they recording RAW video?

I kid, I kid

And how is that done?

I would not call this a superior way because you loose a lot of detail by doing this

Detail slider It really works.

I saw the pink / blue dots in the DNGs as well and I think I have a solution. Or even two (!) solutions...

I) The easy way: use RawTherapee (http://rawtherapee.com)

For those of you who don't know: RawTherapee is a really powerful open source tool for developing RAWs. Runs under Windows, Linux and Mac.

You can directly open a DNG-file and if you then go to the "Raw"-Tab, unfold the "Preprocessing"-section and check "Hot/Dead pixel filter", the disturbing dots will magically disappear. Okay, most of them. Before you do this, you should select a processing profile from the drop down list under the histogram, because selecting a profile resets your "Hot/Dead pixel filter" setting (and all other settings as well) with the profile's default.

RawTherapee can do batch processing, so you can convert a whole image sequence for a movie with just a few clicks.


II) The DIY way: start coding

I hacked a small command line tool that removes the pink pixels directly in the DNG file. It's written in Java, so it should run under Windows and Mac, although I developed it under Linux... but who knows...

Currently the program can only remove pixels in DNGs with 1280x720 resolution, because it uses pre-stored pixel locations. I "calibrated" it to my 650D, but I guess/hope the pixel positions are identical on all 650Ds. Here's an example:

Original DNG:


Modified DNG with dots removed:

(both JPGs developed with RawTherapee and identical settings)

If you want to play with the tool, here it is:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/PinkDotRemover.zip
Just run it like "java -jar PinkDotRemover.jar YourFile.dng". If you're lucky, the program creates a _YourFile.dng with removed dots. Files will be overwritten without confirmation. Currently the tool is just a quick hack without focus on security or stability... use it at you own risk and cross your fingers...

As you can see above, there are still a very few dots left which the tool doesn't remove yet. But that's only a matter of fine tuning.

I'll clean up the code tomorrow and upload the sources as well. If you're (rightfully!) hesitant to execute a stranger's JAR-files on your machine, you can compile the JAR yourself by then.

Here are a few sample DNGs to compare the original with the modified image:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/M3_before.dng
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/M3_after.dng

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/M4_before.dng (DNG for the JPG above)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/M4_after.dng (DNG for the JPG above)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/M5_after.dng
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22843507/MagicLantern/M5_after.dng


Let me know what you think... if you think it's useful, I could extend the tool to batch-convert all DNGs in a directory... or to handle resolutions other than 1280x720...

There's already a superior way than either of these for now. In Lightroom or ACR, turn Noise Removal in both Luminance and Color all the way up and then adjust the detail sliders until just around the point where the dots disappear enough. Finish developing the rest of the settings (exposure, vibrance, brushes, graduated filters, WB, etc) then just select all the photos in LR or Bridge and sync your develope settings. Voila.

Could anyone explain what AF means in AF dots? autofocus?

Yes. Same as how AF means autofocus on the official packaging of every lens and how AF is on the switch on every lens... including the lenses you own in your sig
I can relate to wanting to make sure it's not some other techy term, but seriously, deduction isn't even necessary on this one

New firmware 1.0.4 !!!

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t4i#DriversAndSoftware

And here

http://www.canon-europe.com/Support/Consumer_Products/products/cameras/Digital_SLR/EOS_650D.aspx?faqtcmuri=tcm:13-1059266&page=1&type=important

Who's down to test our ML alphas on the new firmi? I'm in the process of moving and can't afford to take extra chances with my gear until I get settled back in.

You can't move the cursor in the WB preset area while in video mode.

Correction.... you can use touch controls to select a WB preset from the Q menu in Video Mode. The D-Pad doesn't work in the way we described though.

SOLVED THEN FOR NOW:

1. Go to Q menu
2. Go to WB presets
3. Just touch a preset or the Auto preset

Are you sure? did you try every single option from the Q menu?

You can't move the cursor in the WB preset area while in video mode.

In video mode you cant change it via Canon menu as far as I know. Only way I know is to change to photo mode and change it via quick menu.

I should mention I am using Satriani's build from may 31st.

He's right actually. The Q menu in Video Mode doesn't let you change the WB presets on the Satriani builds that I've tested. You have to change to photo mode, then the quick menu. 

If you have to go back to Auto, ML is probably not for you

LOL I also agree. However, people like me... I have a wife who uses my gear and is also pretty pro but about 1 tier below me. She uses my T4i for taking pictures and video of her Kindergarten classroom she teaches and sometimes things like Jpeg Medium and Auto WB get turned on simply to make the less important things less of a PITA for her. Even then she's 100% Manual exposure like me but why bother adjusting stuff to that degree for such mundane photos like Kindergarten pics. That's why she does Jpeg also. Why have to use LR for such things, ya know? So it definitely has its place.

Also in run n gun situations, sometimes its really useful. Rather than get a video with my indoor WB settings, I just walked outside and there's something happening that will either be missed entirely or baked in with horrible WB. Auto saves the day for clutch moments occasionally like that. 

Thanks. Maybe there should be an option in white balance menu to go back to Canon's White Balance?

I thought of this, but it would likely convolute the way it works and screw up usability. I would rather have an option just below WB similar to the Picture Profile selector or something.

Just want to rehash a post from "lordgnagey".  I too agree there should still be an option for 1440 for this build, considering that that is one of the best rez's we're gonna get with the write ceiling everyone gets on the 650d and UHS-I cards.

Hey man. I wanted to say I really appreciate the work! And I have tested out the May 31st build. Apologies for being so direct, but with the adjusted frame sizes 1472 width at 2.35 actually pushes us over the limit in terms of the buffer. It no longer allows for continuous recording, because of this I will be using the older build (with 1440) for my 24fps raw tests.

Is there a way to free up more space for alternative resolutions? Could we do this by removing the options above 1728? I think it would be beneficial considering that these higher res options are useless with this camera's capabilities. Personally I would like to see something like 960 1088 1152 1216 1280 1344 1408 1440 1456 1472 1536 1728 as width options to find what res that has enough cushion to allow for continuous recording. 1216 width would probably be the highest 16:9 with continuous recording.

I do understand that you were attempting to keep all resolutions within a multiple of 64 to maximize efficiency of RAW recording, but sadly it has cost us the highest 2.35 resolution that could record continuously at 24fps. And from my perspective, the speed improvements do not outweigh the option for doing longer takes. 1456 which is 22.75 x 64 might be a decent option, but I assume that 1440 will be a safer resolution to work with as neither is a direct multiple of 64.

That aside, I will say that I did test FPS override at 2.5 fps and I got a pretty nice 3.0x CBR h.264 sunrise TL. Now if only we could implement ALL-I frames...

Thanks to you guys making this fw possible! =)

buggies:

#1: Rack Focus doesn't work for me. It does seem to do the focusing correctly, but I am unable to record any video. Neither by pressing "play" (it just does RF twice and says "Not recording") nor by using standard rec button (goes back to ML Menu, UI flickers).

#2: Customizing display presets, when changing spotmeter, other presets change to the same spotmeter(percent, raw etc.)
       Also, I can't get into the normal Vanilla view as soon as I activate the option for 2 ML Display presets, maybe that's normal.

#3: ML Zebras and other helpers seem to be very slow in Photo mode + LiveView(Vectorscope took 20sec to load,zebras lag which isn't so bad for PhotoMode). Zebras(not vectorscope)also slow in Video Mode, if you don't have default color scheme.

#2 is normal.

#3 is pretty normal too. I know there's builds out there where focus peaking is much smoother and synced but didn't work nearly as well to the point where I wouldn't use it. Now I just use magic zoom instead anyway

I came up with a nice way to use MagicZoom actually. I make 2 setting presets with all but magiczoom the same. The one with magiczoom on has it set to Always On. This way, the info button is a toggle for magiczoom.

Only thing that would be better than this is if Info wasn't on the left :/ but it still works best for me for quickest focusing possible in run n' gun situations.

I finally got a fast enough card to test RAW video, but now I can't find where a few others already asked this noobish question, so;

How do you enable RAW video and change the settings for it as well? :/ I'm on Satriani's "ML_N_11.06.2013"
Are shortcut keys working? What are they and how to change them?

Also,

***BUG REPORT***: Focus box disappears after a successful auto focus while in Live View. Clicking the up/down/left/right buttons makes it show up again. I do not have the Autohide setting on in ML's Focus Box Settings.

I figured it out, that you need to "load modules" first.

Anyone on shortcut keys?

Nanomad, is the focus box bug something possibly fixable?

Alright, I have a card that runs about 30mb/s , Magic Lanterns Benchmark tells me that I am running on 12mb/s so I guess I need to down the resolution. But how can I do this? sorry for being new to this.

You're gonna need at least a 45/MB/s card. Better yet would be a 90MB/s or higher. It's a good investment. Just the jump from Sandisk 30MB/s to 45MB/s was huge. It's not black and white speeds. Different products do different actual speeds not to mention how each card has a minimum speed, meaning it can dip as low as said speed. The minimum speeds are the biggest issue with high bitrate things like RAW. Once the speed dips below what's needed, recording stops.